Tree thieves may be targeting your "growing investment"
Tree thieves are in the news again. A reader recently sent me a newspaper story about alleged thieves targeting hemlock trees. According to the article, park rangers found 2,700 hemlock saplings and seedlings dug from the Grundy Forest Natural Area, near Tracy City, Tennessee.
The park rangers arrested three men who had apparently planned to sell the hemlocks to a plant nursery. As a nurseryman myself, I can say that it would have been unlikely that any nursery would have been gullible enough to buy the trees from these alleged rustlers. Apart from the legal issues, those hemlocks would have been unlikely to survive the trauma.
According to the newspaper article, John Christof, the Natural Area manager said, "We put every one of the trees back in the ground as soon as we could [but] I believe 99% died."
At this time of year, many tree rustlers target Christmas tree farms, and even some homeowners wake up to find only a stump in their front yard where a fir tree had stood previously.
However, most "professional" tree rustlers are interested in how much a sawmill will pay them for the freshly cut trunk. Sawmills talk in terms of "dollars per board-foot" and pay higher prices for trees that, in turn, realize the best profits for them.
In previous columns, I’ve recommended that you should be extra vigilant if you have trees on your property that carry a high dollar value. Here are three trees that can be potential targets for tree thieves:
Black Walnut
One of my favorites, and proving increasingly popular with timberjackers, too. One reason: it has earned the nickname of "the money tree", because of its value to furniture makers. Over the past thirty years or so, the black walnut has once again achieved its former glory thanks to the development of genetically superior cultivars.
Black walnut trees can be a remarkably good investment. I know folks who have plantations of black walnuts that they expect will provide for their retirement in a few years. You can find several articles and archived columns about black walnut trees at my Web site if this sounds like something you'd be interested in. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the Plant Man columns, or type "black walnut" into the Search window.
Sugar Maple
Sometimes known as Birds-eye maple or Acer Saccharum, the timber is often used for making picture frames. However, I like this tree because it's the perfect shade tree and looks great on a good sized lawn. That's why you can see them in municipal parks and on golf courses.
White Oak
Tree thieves love this one, too. I think the word to describe the white oak is ‘majestic', particularly when you see one that reaches a hundred or more feet from the ground.
I should emphasize that there’s no need to decide against planting these trees simply because they are popular with treejackers. They add beauty and elegance to your landscape and will probably increase the resale value of your home, should you decide to sell in the future. However, it pays to be aware that there are bad guys out there and you might need to take steps to protect your investment!
You can find more information at my Web site by typing "tree thieves" into the search window. You can also find out more about the trees mentioned above by finding this column archived under the Plant Man heading and clicking on the hot links.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
“Sold” on compost? Here’s how to make your pile
Creating a compost pile is one of the simplest jobs you can do around your garden and landscape. However, it is also just about the most effective use of your time because it pays big dividends in the form of vibrant soil and healthy plants.
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, November 18, 2005
Compost: the free gateway to super soil
Is it really worth starting your own compost pile? Aren’t you simply creating a smelly eyesore that’s just a glorified trash dump?
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, November 10, 2005
Fall garden fix-its now save problems next spring
Here’s what you DON’T want to say next spring: “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!” To avoid giving yourself a dope-slap a few months from now, follow this fall fix-it checklist.
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)