Gardeners and landscapers can learn a lot from other artists and craftsmen. For instance, think of the people who work in the picture-framing business.
Take a picture to one of these experts and you can find that what might have seemed a no-brainer turns out to require a lot of thought to achieve the desired result. They’ll naturally spend some time selecting the ideal frame. But notice how much thought they put into finding the perfect mat.
The mat – that beveled piece of card that serves as a border between the picture and the frame – is essential to the optimum appreciation of the picture itself. The right mat will enhance perfectly the picture it surrounds, focusing the viewer’s eye on the art it borders.
On the other hand, a carelessly-chosen mat can be a major distraction, clashing with the colors of the art or dominating the viewer’s attention. Even a masterpiece can appear mediocre when poorly framed and matted.
The same can be true with the plants in your landscape.
A prize perennial can look breathtaking when surrounded by other plants carefully chosen to form the ideal “frame and mat” to bring out its color and texture. Conversely, that supreme specimen can almost disappear when set amidst the “wrong” plants.
As I have recommended before, a good start is a color wheel from a craft shop or downloaded from an online source, such as http://www.colormatters.com/colortheory.html You can quickly see a visual guide to analogous and complementary colors.
In a nutshell, analogous colors are the three colors that sit side by side on a twelve-part color wheel; for example the trio that pretty much go from yellow to orange to red. Complementary colors are any two colors that sit directly opposite each other on the wheel, such as red and green, or red-purple and yellow-green. (It’s easier to visualize this when you’re looking at a color wheel!)
Your objective with all this is to achieve harmony: an arrangement that is pleasing to the human eye.
If you need an idea to get you started, you could do worse than a fast-growing perennial named Salvia Blue Hill Sage (Salvia x sylvestris Blue Hill). Why? Because this useful plant seems to bring out the absolute best in other plants that it “frames” in your garden. If you’ve ever said, “That dress brings out the color of your eyes,” you’ll understand what I mean.
Blue Hill originated in Germany where it was (and is) valued for its summer-long blooming clear blue flowers and its sturdy compact stature. Cut it back and it will re-bloom in the early fall. They’re easy to grow and prefer full sun, reaching a maximum height of around two feet.
If you’re using the principals of complementary colors, the brilliant blue of that Salvia and its green foliage would greatly enhance the color of red-blooming plants that you group with it.
A delightful option could be the Dianthus Spotty. Blooming in May or June, the Spotty has bright red flowers festooned with brilliant white spots. Like Blue Hill, they do best in full sun and well drained soil. Spotty is a dwarf variety, reaching only about 5 inches tall and is perfect for rock gardens.
In England they are often described as crevice fillers because they can be planted between flagstones or around craggy rock features. A mass of Dianthus Spotty in full bloom looks like a red and white polka-dot dress. A fun addition to your garden and a fine “complement” to the Blue Hill.
Speaking of “red,” of course you can’t help but think of the aptly named Red Hot Poker.(Kniphofia uvaria Flamenco). Actually, this particular variety produces fiery red, vivid orange and soft yellow flower spikes, thus making it a one-man analogous color display! The brilliant flowers are on straight, 3-foot stalks and hummingbirds seem to go bonkers for them.
Create color harmony in your garden and you’ll see how the right “frames” bring your masterpieces to life.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, March 29, 2007
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Blend color and texture for successful container gardens
Container planting has become quite a hot topic with gardeners over the past few years, and for good reason. There are a number of benefits to using those versatile containers and today I’ll share some tips and ideas so you can decide if “going container” would work for you.
A few days ago, I received the following question from a reader:
QUESTION: “I have some large pots that I need to fill. There are six around the pool and two each at two separate entrances to the house. Two are boxes and the other eight are urns. I would like some ideas for possible combinations. I would like to combine evergreens, perennials, and annuals. Ornamental grasses also, either perennial or annual. I live in zone 7.” – Bill Dubin
ANSWER: Bill, I have planters all around our garden area. Last season I used grasses and some ground cover, and featured some perennials. I even included hostas. Here are some that have worked well for me in containers:
Grasses:Miscanthus I. Red Baron, Pennisetum Karley Rose, Pennisetun Hameln, Panicum v. Squaw, Miscnathus purpurascens
Hostas:Blue Angel, Blue Dimples, Patriot.
Ground Cover:Ajuga, English ivy, sedum (including Dragon’s Blood Red, Blue Spruce and Baby Tears)
Perennials:I like any of the achilleas (such as Summer Berries or Paprika that I described in a previous column) and Clematis.
Here’s a basic design tip. If you have a container that will be seen from all sides, plant your grass or the tallest perennial in the center of the pot then build the remaining plants around it to give a layered effect. If the container will be close to a wall or fence and will be viewed mainly from the front, put the tallest plants in the back and work forward to the shorter plants in the front.
If you are having trouble deciding which colors work well together, it’s a good idea to go to a local art or craft store and buy a color wheel which will give a visual guide to color harmony for a very modest investment. If you can’t wait, take a look at an online color wheel and a basic explanation of the difference between complimentary and analogous colors at http://www.artsconnected.org/toolkit/encyc_colorwheel.html As that’s a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
As I mentioned, container gardening is nothing new, but it is a growing trend in recent years. As for benefits, one of the biggest is the mobility factor. “You can arrange the containers for a party on your patio and then move them to other places in your yard,” says Felder Rushing, a gardening expert at the Web site www.Learn2Grow.com
Among Rushing’s other points:
Monitor watering. Plants in containers require more water than those grown in the ground. Also, the type of containers you choose will impact the watering requirements. Clay pots are porous and dry out faster than plastic pots. The smaller the container, the more often you will need to water it.
Consider weight. That one-pound pot may weigh more than 12 pounds once you get soil and plant material in it. If you want to be able to move your containers around, make sure they’re not too heavy. As an alternative, Cheryl and I place some of our containers on specialized dollies with casters for easy movement. We also place a thick layer of recycled Styrofoam “peanuts” under the soil in larger pots for improved drainage and lighter weight.
Consider conditions. In cold climates, containers will be the first to freeze and in warm climates, they’ll hold in heat. Move plants out of hot baking sun in warmer areas and protect them by placing them in a garage or shed in freezing temperatures.
Container gardening is a fun and manageable way to enjoy many types of plants, regardless of the size of your landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
A few days ago, I received the following question from a reader:
QUESTION: “I have some large pots that I need to fill. There are six around the pool and two each at two separate entrances to the house. Two are boxes and the other eight are urns. I would like some ideas for possible combinations. I would like to combine evergreens, perennials, and annuals. Ornamental grasses also, either perennial or annual. I live in zone 7.” – Bill Dubin
ANSWER: Bill, I have planters all around our garden area. Last season I used grasses and some ground cover, and featured some perennials. I even included hostas. Here are some that have worked well for me in containers:
Grasses:Miscanthus I. Red Baron, Pennisetum Karley Rose, Pennisetun Hameln, Panicum v. Squaw, Miscnathus purpurascens
Hostas:Blue Angel, Blue Dimples, Patriot.
Ground Cover:Ajuga, English ivy, sedum (including Dragon’s Blood Red, Blue Spruce and Baby Tears)
Perennials:I like any of the achilleas (such as Summer Berries or Paprika that I described in a previous column) and Clematis.
Here’s a basic design tip. If you have a container that will be seen from all sides, plant your grass or the tallest perennial in the center of the pot then build the remaining plants around it to give a layered effect. If the container will be close to a wall or fence and will be viewed mainly from the front, put the tallest plants in the back and work forward to the shorter plants in the front.
If you are having trouble deciding which colors work well together, it’s a good idea to go to a local art or craft store and buy a color wheel which will give a visual guide to color harmony for a very modest investment. If you can’t wait, take a look at an online color wheel and a basic explanation of the difference between complimentary and analogous colors at http://www.artsconnected.org/toolkit/encyc_colorwheel.html As that’s a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
As I mentioned, container gardening is nothing new, but it is a growing trend in recent years. As for benefits, one of the biggest is the mobility factor. “You can arrange the containers for a party on your patio and then move them to other places in your yard,” says Felder Rushing, a gardening expert at the Web site www.Learn2Grow.com
Among Rushing’s other points:
Monitor watering. Plants in containers require more water than those grown in the ground. Also, the type of containers you choose will impact the watering requirements. Clay pots are porous and dry out faster than plastic pots. The smaller the container, the more often you will need to water it.
Consider weight. That one-pound pot may weigh more than 12 pounds once you get soil and plant material in it. If you want to be able to move your containers around, make sure they’re not too heavy. As an alternative, Cheryl and I place some of our containers on specialized dollies with casters for easy movement. We also place a thick layer of recycled Styrofoam “peanuts” under the soil in larger pots for improved drainage and lighter weight.
Consider conditions. In cold climates, containers will be the first to freeze and in warm climates, they’ll hold in heat. Move plants out of hot baking sun in warmer areas and protect them by placing them in a garage or shed in freezing temperatures.
Container gardening is a fun and manageable way to enjoy many types of plants, regardless of the size of your landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
No TLC needed for these out-of-the-ordinary plants
Instead of the “same old same old,” how about putting some pizzazz in your landscape this spring with some plants that are a little out of the ordinary!
Coreopsis Heaven’s Gate
Whoever named this Coreopsis was definitely inspired, perhaps with visions of this particular plant welcoming new arrivals at the Pearly Gates. Unlike its more common yellow cousins, this one is pink. In fact, Heaven’s Gate is a sort of two-tone pink with a deep ruby center changing to a more delicate pink towards the tip of each petal.
It might look delicate, but Heaven’s Gate is easy to grow and doesn’t need a lot of TLC. Blooming from spring to fall, and best suited to Zones 5 to 8, it prefers a sunny spot in your garden and will grow to around 12 to 24 inches at maturity. It’s a showy, compact perennial that could put a little breath of heaven close to home.
Coreopsis rosea Sweet Dreams
As I started writing about Heaven’s Gate, I was reminded of another Coreopsis that is both spectacular and easy to care for. With Sweet Dreams you’ll find blooms with deep raspberry centers bleeding out to pure white tips that really seem to glow against the tapered, dark green foliage.
They bloom pretty much from late spring until the first frost. Growing to about 18 inches tall, they also spread nicely to about 18 inches wide, making them a good addition to a sunny bank as well as the more traditional flower bed. An added benefit: they attract butterflies but are deer-resistant.
Coreopsis grandiflora Domino
If you prefer the more traditional look of a yellow Coreopsis, take a look at this cheerful little guy whose bright yellow, fringed blooms each have a deep burgundy-red center. They add a splash of sunshine to a flower border all summer long and are perfect for cut flower arrangements.
Achillea Summer Berries
Why settle for one color when you can enjoy several? Summer Berries blooms with a sumptuous mix of fruity colors that range from salmon/apricot to yellow and cherry red to pink/cream to two-tone pink and even more, in clusters of 3 to 5 inch blooms.
I’ve found that a lot of Achillea tend to fade, but the blooms on Summer Berries hang in there, even in summer heat and bright sunshine. This plant can really enhance a border and, once again is easy to care for. A favorite of both bees and butterflies, it makes spectacular flower arrangements, fresh or dried.
Happiest in Zones 3 through 9, it grows to around 2 or 3 feet tall, flowering from June to September.
Achillea Paprika
If you’d prefer a single color Achillea instead of the rainbow effect of Summer Berries, try the Paprika. As the name suggests the clusters of flowers are bright red and each flower has a distinctive yellow center.
This is one of the Achillea that will fade a bit – from bright red to pink – as it ages. It’s possible to reduce the fading effect somewhat if you plant them in a spot that has some afternoon shade.
Regular deadheading will keep the blooms coming back. Paprika is a perennial that grows to about 2 or 3 feet at maturity.
Clematis Ernest Markham
This Clematis was named by Rowland Jackman in 1937 to honor Ernest Markham who is credited with being the first to raise this variety. The Jackmans, incidentally, have a long horticultural pedigree themselves, having operated the family nursery in England since 1810. Speaking of pedigrees, this Clematis received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
I particularly like the large, rich red flowers with their creamy-brown stamens. It does well in just about any average, well-drained garden soil, but really thrives in loamy, pH neutral soil. This is a fast-growing deciduous vine than can quickly grow as high as 20 feet.
Isn’t it nice to know that many uncommon plants are still very easy to care for?
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Coreopsis Heaven’s Gate
Whoever named this Coreopsis was definitely inspired, perhaps with visions of this particular plant welcoming new arrivals at the Pearly Gates. Unlike its more common yellow cousins, this one is pink. In fact, Heaven’s Gate is a sort of two-tone pink with a deep ruby center changing to a more delicate pink towards the tip of each petal.
It might look delicate, but Heaven’s Gate is easy to grow and doesn’t need a lot of TLC. Blooming from spring to fall, and best suited to Zones 5 to 8, it prefers a sunny spot in your garden and will grow to around 12 to 24 inches at maturity. It’s a showy, compact perennial that could put a little breath of heaven close to home.
Coreopsis rosea Sweet Dreams
As I started writing about Heaven’s Gate, I was reminded of another Coreopsis that is both spectacular and easy to care for. With Sweet Dreams you’ll find blooms with deep raspberry centers bleeding out to pure white tips that really seem to glow against the tapered, dark green foliage.
They bloom pretty much from late spring until the first frost. Growing to about 18 inches tall, they also spread nicely to about 18 inches wide, making them a good addition to a sunny bank as well as the more traditional flower bed. An added benefit: they attract butterflies but are deer-resistant.
Coreopsis grandiflora Domino
If you prefer the more traditional look of a yellow Coreopsis, take a look at this cheerful little guy whose bright yellow, fringed blooms each have a deep burgundy-red center. They add a splash of sunshine to a flower border all summer long and are perfect for cut flower arrangements.
Achillea Summer Berries
Why settle for one color when you can enjoy several? Summer Berries blooms with a sumptuous mix of fruity colors that range from salmon/apricot to yellow and cherry red to pink/cream to two-tone pink and even more, in clusters of 3 to 5 inch blooms.
I’ve found that a lot of Achillea tend to fade, but the blooms on Summer Berries hang in there, even in summer heat and bright sunshine. This plant can really enhance a border and, once again is easy to care for. A favorite of both bees and butterflies, it makes spectacular flower arrangements, fresh or dried.
Happiest in Zones 3 through 9, it grows to around 2 or 3 feet tall, flowering from June to September.
Achillea Paprika
If you’d prefer a single color Achillea instead of the rainbow effect of Summer Berries, try the Paprika. As the name suggests the clusters of flowers are bright red and each flower has a distinctive yellow center.
This is one of the Achillea that will fade a bit – from bright red to pink – as it ages. It’s possible to reduce the fading effect somewhat if you plant them in a spot that has some afternoon shade.
Regular deadheading will keep the blooms coming back. Paprika is a perennial that grows to about 2 or 3 feet at maturity.
Clematis Ernest Markham
This Clematis was named by Rowland Jackman in 1937 to honor Ernest Markham who is credited with being the first to raise this variety. The Jackmans, incidentally, have a long horticultural pedigree themselves, having operated the family nursery in England since 1810. Speaking of pedigrees, this Clematis received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
I particularly like the large, rich red flowers with their creamy-brown stamens. It does well in just about any average, well-drained garden soil, but really thrives in loamy, pH neutral soil. This is a fast-growing deciduous vine than can quickly grow as high as 20 feet.
Isn’t it nice to know that many uncommon plants are still very easy to care for?
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 07, 2007
Bamboo starts slow, grows to impressive height
Recently, I was out of the country attending an agricultural conference in Nairobi, Kenya. While there, I gave a presentation about the many uses for bamboo and the benefits of establishing bamboo plantations.
When I returned home, I found a lot of questions in my e-mail in-box from readers of this column. I had to smile when I realized that the first one I opened was about… bamboo!
QUESTION: “Can you please tell me approx how many feet the green panda and the green screen grow each year and about how long it takes for them to reach maturity?” – Susan Rodriguez
ANSWER: Bamboo is the tallest growing grass in the world. It does get off to a slow start by taking at least three years to establish itself (with minimum growth). Once the mother plant has established itself, growth will gradually become faster with each cane becoming denser than the previous. On an established plant, the canes will reach their destined height in one year.
The bamboo variety known as green panda grows in the 6-10 foot height range and the green screen grows in the 10-20 foot tall range. Bamboo typically lives until the plant itself blooms, which is generally in 40 to 60 years.
QUESTION: “I purchased 50 Red Twig Dogwoods 3 years ago. They are doing great. We live in [USDA Plant Hardiness] zone 7 and I just trimmed them back some. What kind of fertilizer should I use on them this spring? Also, what is a good fertilizer for Hemlocks, Compacta Hollies and Nandinas?” -- Jerry Schaufenbuel
ANSWER: Since they are doing well, I would advise you to be cautious in applying anything to them. Rather than fertilizer, you might just mulch them with an aged compost mix or other organic matter to give them any nutrients they might need.
If you feel that a fertilizer is necessary, use a low grade balanced one and use sparingly. Fertilizer balances out the soil and is usually only necessary when the soil is somewhat lacking.
For the hemlocks, I would add organic matter. Alternatively, visit your hardware or garden store and ask for a fertilizer specifically for evergreens such as hemlock and see what their best brand will be. Take a pitchfork and punch holes around the base of the trees spreading outward as the root system will spread out and not down. Then spread fertilizer as directed and water.
The same applies to the holly and nandina plants, as they prefer organic matter to inorganic fertilizer. However, for inorganic use, there is a product called HollyTone that is used on broadleaf evergreens (holly and nandinas).
As long as the plants are happy and growing, as I mentioned before, just be cautious in your applications and follow the directions on the packaging.
QUESTION: “I enjoyed your recent column about Knockout roses. I planted a couple of Red Knockout roses last spring. They have done pretty well. However Japanese beetles enjoyed feasting on them for a few weeks. When the beetles left the plants recovered pretty quickly. Should I trim the plants back during the cold months? Also, is this a good time to trim weigela bushes? I don't want them to get too large.” – Barbara Moses
ANSWER: The Red Knockout roses are just fabulous, aren't they? A product called Take Down Garden Spray works great on those little beetles. Be sure to spray around the base of the plants as well as the beetles burrow into the ground to reproduce. Actually if you have a severe problem with the Japanese beetles, it may take 1-2 years of spraying to break their cycle.
On a warm weekend in March, you may want to do your springclean up. On the knockouts and weigela, as well as other plants, prune out any branches that are broken, dead or crossing over each other. It is also a good time for shaping to your liking as you can see the plant without leaves to block the view.
Weigela can be pruned and shaped in early spring and then pruned again after blooming. It is possible that they may bloom again after the second pruning. But more, it keeps them to the size you prefer.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
When I returned home, I found a lot of questions in my e-mail in-box from readers of this column. I had to smile when I realized that the first one I opened was about… bamboo!
QUESTION: “Can you please tell me approx how many feet the green panda and the green screen grow each year and about how long it takes for them to reach maturity?” – Susan Rodriguez
ANSWER: Bamboo is the tallest growing grass in the world. It does get off to a slow start by taking at least three years to establish itself (with minimum growth). Once the mother plant has established itself, growth will gradually become faster with each cane becoming denser than the previous. On an established plant, the canes will reach their destined height in one year.
The bamboo variety known as green panda grows in the 6-10 foot height range and the green screen grows in the 10-20 foot tall range. Bamboo typically lives until the plant itself blooms, which is generally in 40 to 60 years.
QUESTION: “I purchased 50 Red Twig Dogwoods 3 years ago. They are doing great. We live in [USDA Plant Hardiness] zone 7 and I just trimmed them back some. What kind of fertilizer should I use on them this spring? Also, what is a good fertilizer for Hemlocks, Compacta Hollies and Nandinas?” -- Jerry Schaufenbuel
ANSWER: Since they are doing well, I would advise you to be cautious in applying anything to them. Rather than fertilizer, you might just mulch them with an aged compost mix or other organic matter to give them any nutrients they might need.
If you feel that a fertilizer is necessary, use a low grade balanced one and use sparingly. Fertilizer balances out the soil and is usually only necessary when the soil is somewhat lacking.
For the hemlocks, I would add organic matter. Alternatively, visit your hardware or garden store and ask for a fertilizer specifically for evergreens such as hemlock and see what their best brand will be. Take a pitchfork and punch holes around the base of the trees spreading outward as the root system will spread out and not down. Then spread fertilizer as directed and water.
The same applies to the holly and nandina plants, as they prefer organic matter to inorganic fertilizer. However, for inorganic use, there is a product called HollyTone that is used on broadleaf evergreens (holly and nandinas).
As long as the plants are happy and growing, as I mentioned before, just be cautious in your applications and follow the directions on the packaging.
QUESTION: “I enjoyed your recent column about Knockout roses. I planted a couple of Red Knockout roses last spring. They have done pretty well. However Japanese beetles enjoyed feasting on them for a few weeks. When the beetles left the plants recovered pretty quickly. Should I trim the plants back during the cold months? Also, is this a good time to trim weigela bushes? I don't want them to get too large.” – Barbara Moses
ANSWER: The Red Knockout roses are just fabulous, aren't they? A product called Take Down Garden Spray works great on those little beetles. Be sure to spray around the base of the plants as well as the beetles burrow into the ground to reproduce. Actually if you have a severe problem with the Japanese beetles, it may take 1-2 years of spraying to break their cycle.
On a warm weekend in March, you may want to do your springclean up. On the knockouts and weigela, as well as other plants, prune out any branches that are broken, dead or crossing over each other. It is also a good time for shaping to your liking as you can see the plant without leaves to block the view.
Weigela can be pruned and shaped in early spring and then pruned again after blooming. It is possible that they may bloom again after the second pruning. But more, it keeps them to the size you prefer.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
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