The text of this column is largely based on The Plant Man, dated 07/20/03, a perennial favorite among readers. Here’s a second chance to see a classic column.
"There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime Blues." I heard that Eddie Cochran song on an oldies radio station this morning. I thought to myself, "It's the summertime BROWNS that bother most homeowners... at least when it comes to lawns!"
Every summer, I get calls or e-mails asking me what can be done to "cure" browned-out lawns. The bad news: To paraphrase Eddie, there pretty much "ain't no cure" for a lawn that's browned out from the summer weather conditions. The good news: It's not a disaster!
I'll explain that later in this column, but first let's think about some preventative measures that will keep your lawn from degenerating into a giant sheet of coconut matting. By the way, as this is a subject that comes up quite often, I suggest you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org where you will find an archive of these columns under "The Plant Man" heading, as well as several other helpful articles. You can also sign up for my free e-mailed newsletter if you wish.
So what can you do to maintain a healthy lawn until the cooler weather returns?
Mowing height adjustment is probably the most important practice to prepare lawns for hot weather, according to Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator at the University of Illinois Extension. He recommends that you mow at heights around three inches or slightly higher. If in doubt, set the mower as high as it will go. Lawns maintained at higher heights usually develop deeper roots and dry out slower than closely mowed turf. Lawn growth will slow as the weather gets drier and hotter. The complete article can be found at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortihints/0106b.html
and you can find a direct link to it from this "Plant Man" column at my Web site. The commonest lawn grasses in most areas are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue. As an act of self-preservation, these grasses tend to slow down their growth and go dormant during hot weather. If you wish to maintain a green lawn throughout the summer, you must make a commitment now to water throughout the summer!
If you don't believe me, here's some advice from the experts at the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. In particular, they tell us that you will need to follow a regular watering routine before the lawn begins to brown. Why? Because once the lawn goes dormant in mid-summer watering will not generally green it up until fall.
To keep the lawn green requires about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week, according to the folks at the Kemper Center. A sprinkler used on home lawns usually deliver from one-quarter to one-third inch per hour. It is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week than frequent light watering.
You can read the entire text at http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/hortline/messages/3209.shtml and, as always, there is a direct link from this column archived at my Web site.
Another reminder: I advise you to water early in the day. For one thing, it's more comfortable for you because it's cooler. But most important, watering early in the day appears to reduce disease occurrence.
But back to my statement at the beginning of this column. Generally speaking, it's not a disaster if your grass goes brown in the dry summer heat. Again, I want to emphasize that the brown color is an indication that the grass has gone dormant. This is nature's way of conserving energy until
such times as the grass can renew its growth in the cycle of life. Dormant and dead are not the same thing.
Let me know if you are having lawn problems or if you need advice or suggestions about any aspect of landscaping. I try to respond via e-mail within a day or so, and some questions will be featured in future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Wednesday, July 19, 2006
Ground cover and grass fight soil erosion on slopes
At this time of year, lawn problems seem to be top of mind with most garden enthusiasts. However, some problems can take on a more “personal” aspect, as you might guess from this first question:
QUESTION: “My husband and I are having a disagreement over planting on a sloping bank and retaining wall. He insists that it must have grass to prevent soil erosion (which obviously would have to be trimmed all the time). Please tell me if plantings hold the soil and if some particular groundcover or mulch should be used.” – Kay Ralph
ANSWER: Grass is always a good protection against soil erosion, as are other types of groundcover. However, what you actually plant can depend on a number of factors including the degree of slope, the soil type, whether the area is shaded or in partial or full sun and the plant hardiness zone you are in. All groundcover will hold soil to a great degree once established. If you contact me again, letting me know your USDA zone and some indication of the other variables, I can recommend some specific ground covers.
For anyone who is unsure of the USDA zone in which you live, simply drop me an e-mail with your zip code and I’ll respond with your zone. You can also go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and type USDA into the search window to see a full color plant hardiness map.
QUESTION: “I was hoping you could help me with two problems I have. First, I have some hostas in a row behind my patio in my back yard. I'm not sure what kind they are; the leaves are darker on the inside and lighter around the outside. Anyway, every year something eats a lot of holes in the leaves and they look terrible. Now I'm trying to grow bean plants in the same area and the same thing is happening to the leaves on those plants. Do you have any idea what is behind that and how to get rid of whatever is causing it?
“My other problem is that I have a lot of bare spots in my yard with no grass. I do have a lot of trees in my yard and have been told that, because I have so many trees, grass will not grow in certain areas of the yard. Is this true? I like having a lot of trees in my yard and don't want to cut them down if I don't have to. I have tried many different kinds of grass seed, shady, high-traffic and others. They seem to grow good at first then always die off. Is there any way to have a lot of trees and a yard of nice grass too? I hate the way the yard looks and really could use some help!” – Bill Freeman
ANSWER: The first problem sounds like snails. You can get rid of them using a product called Sluggo The active ingredient in Sluggo is iron phosphate so it is an organic compound that breaks down into fertilizer in your yard. There’s another product called Slug It! Concentrate. I use this myself in our garden with great results for hostas. If you need some shopping information for either product, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
As for the grass, a lot will depend on the soil and the types of grasses. Growing a decent lawn under shade trees is never easy! Of course, it is important to keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris. Here is a link to a site that I use on lawn questions. http://www.lawncare.com/
There are numerous helpful articles there, including one titled “How to seed bare spots and thin areas.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “My husband and I are having a disagreement over planting on a sloping bank and retaining wall. He insists that it must have grass to prevent soil erosion (which obviously would have to be trimmed all the time). Please tell me if plantings hold the soil and if some particular groundcover or mulch should be used.” – Kay Ralph
ANSWER: Grass is always a good protection against soil erosion, as are other types of groundcover. However, what you actually plant can depend on a number of factors including the degree of slope, the soil type, whether the area is shaded or in partial or full sun and the plant hardiness zone you are in. All groundcover will hold soil to a great degree once established. If you contact me again, letting me know your USDA zone and some indication of the other variables, I can recommend some specific ground covers.
For anyone who is unsure of the USDA zone in which you live, simply drop me an e-mail with your zip code and I’ll respond with your zone. You can also go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and type USDA into the search window to see a full color plant hardiness map.
QUESTION: “I was hoping you could help me with two problems I have. First, I have some hostas in a row behind my patio in my back yard. I'm not sure what kind they are; the leaves are darker on the inside and lighter around the outside. Anyway, every year something eats a lot of holes in the leaves and they look terrible. Now I'm trying to grow bean plants in the same area and the same thing is happening to the leaves on those plants. Do you have any idea what is behind that and how to get rid of whatever is causing it?
“My other problem is that I have a lot of bare spots in my yard with no grass. I do have a lot of trees in my yard and have been told that, because I have so many trees, grass will not grow in certain areas of the yard. Is this true? I like having a lot of trees in my yard and don't want to cut them down if I don't have to. I have tried many different kinds of grass seed, shady, high-traffic and others. They seem to grow good at first then always die off. Is there any way to have a lot of trees and a yard of nice grass too? I hate the way the yard looks and really could use some help!” – Bill Freeman
ANSWER: The first problem sounds like snails. You can get rid of them using a product called Sluggo The active ingredient in Sluggo is iron phosphate so it is an organic compound that breaks down into fertilizer in your yard. There’s another product called Slug It! Concentrate. I use this myself in our garden with great results for hostas. If you need some shopping information for either product, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
As for the grass, a lot will depend on the soil and the types of grasses. Growing a decent lawn under shade trees is never easy! Of course, it is important to keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris. Here is a link to a site that I use on lawn questions. http://www.lawncare.com/
There are numerous helpful articles there, including one titled “How to seed bare spots and thin areas.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 12, 2006
The green, green grass of home... without chemicals?
Is there really a way to maintain a lush, healthy, pest-free lawn without using risky pesticides? More and more natural gardening advocates are saying yes, it IS possible. If you have ever felt uneasy about using chemical pesticides, today’s column is a must-read!
Pesticides are, quite obviously, poisons intended to kill insects. However, most pesticides affect vital biological processes that are not unique to the target pests, according to an organization called the Safer Pest Control Project (SPCP), based in Chicago, Illinois. Pesticides can also be harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises that are part of a lawn’s natural defenses. Also affected are microorganisms, the little guys that break down organic matter that nourishes your soil.
Additionally, pets and children running barefoot on the lawn can track pesticides into the house where they adhere to carpets and furniture.
Pesticides are regulated by the EPA and are subject to rigorous testing. However, many concerned individuals and groups such as the SPCP advocate alternative ways to achieve healthy, pest-free lawns and soil.
You can download dozens of useful fact sheets about non-toxic care of lawns and gardens at http://www.spcpweb.org/yards/ and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with many other resources you might find helpful.
So what can you do if you are leery of chemical pesticides? Among the SPCP’s suggestions:
Water weekly
Don’t water your lawn daily. A deep, weekly watering encourages deep root growth for stronger grass that has less room for weeds.
Water early
Watering your lawn early in the morning allows the grass to dry before nightfall, lessening the likelihood of fungus that thrives in damp grass.
Mow correctly
Be sure you have sharp blades because dull blades rip the grass, weakening its defenses. Set the blades at a height of 3 inches as this will increase root strength and shade out many weeds.
Use organic fertilizers
Many commercial fertilizers can get washed away before the lawn can use the nitrogen, potentially polluting bodies of water.
Add clover
I can hear a lot of eyebrows snapping up. “Add clover? I’m trying to get rid of it!” The folks at SPCP recommend adding clover to your lawn. Reason? It’s drought-tolerant, immune to many diseases and “greens up” all summer. Additionally, it just might distract bunnies from nibbling on your perennials.
Natural fertilizers
Seek out natural fertilizers, such as corn gluten that can be an effective pre-emergent weed control. Here’s the part you didn’t want to hear: Get a sturdy weeding tool and go after the weeds, but do it for short periods on a regular basis, instead of trying to do it all at once. I would suggest that you make this an early-morning activity, before the sun starts baking your back.
Finally, says the SPCP, try not to focus so much on a totally green lawn; instead make it your goal to have a healthy lawn that will naturally resist drought and disease.
My personal opinion is that a naturally healthy soil is the best foundation for lawns and virtually all other plants. I like to use organically-based products such as Turf Tea Magic. You can probably find it online by searching via Google, or drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll forward you some information.
Correction: In a recent column titled “Vanishing bees: a problem for gardeners and farmers” there was a typographic error in the Web address for the Natural Resources Defense Council. The correct address is http://www.nrdc.org/OnEarth and it’s a great resource if you need to know more about bees and the dangers of diminishing bee population. My apologies for the error!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Pesticides are, quite obviously, poisons intended to kill insects. However, most pesticides affect vital biological processes that are not unique to the target pests, according to an organization called the Safer Pest Control Project (SPCP), based in Chicago, Illinois. Pesticides can also be harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises that are part of a lawn’s natural defenses. Also affected are microorganisms, the little guys that break down organic matter that nourishes your soil.
Additionally, pets and children running barefoot on the lawn can track pesticides into the house where they adhere to carpets and furniture.
Pesticides are regulated by the EPA and are subject to rigorous testing. However, many concerned individuals and groups such as the SPCP advocate alternative ways to achieve healthy, pest-free lawns and soil.
You can download dozens of useful fact sheets about non-toxic care of lawns and gardens at http://www.spcpweb.org/yards/ and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with many other resources you might find helpful.
So what can you do if you are leery of chemical pesticides? Among the SPCP’s suggestions:
Water weekly
Don’t water your lawn daily. A deep, weekly watering encourages deep root growth for stronger grass that has less room for weeds.
Water early
Watering your lawn early in the morning allows the grass to dry before nightfall, lessening the likelihood of fungus that thrives in damp grass.
Mow correctly
Be sure you have sharp blades because dull blades rip the grass, weakening its defenses. Set the blades at a height of 3 inches as this will increase root strength and shade out many weeds.
Use organic fertilizers
Many commercial fertilizers can get washed away before the lawn can use the nitrogen, potentially polluting bodies of water.
Add clover
I can hear a lot of eyebrows snapping up. “Add clover? I’m trying to get rid of it!” The folks at SPCP recommend adding clover to your lawn. Reason? It’s drought-tolerant, immune to many diseases and “greens up” all summer. Additionally, it just might distract bunnies from nibbling on your perennials.
Natural fertilizers
Seek out natural fertilizers, such as corn gluten that can be an effective pre-emergent weed control. Here’s the part you didn’t want to hear: Get a sturdy weeding tool and go after the weeds, but do it for short periods on a regular basis, instead of trying to do it all at once. I would suggest that you make this an early-morning activity, before the sun starts baking your back.
Finally, says the SPCP, try not to focus so much on a totally green lawn; instead make it your goal to have a healthy lawn that will naturally resist drought and disease.
My personal opinion is that a naturally healthy soil is the best foundation for lawns and virtually all other plants. I like to use organically-based products such as Turf Tea Magic. You can probably find it online by searching via Google, or drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll forward you some information.
Correction: In a recent column titled “Vanishing bees: a problem for gardeners and farmers” there was a typographic error in the Web address for the Natural Resources Defense Council. The correct address is http://www.nrdc.org/OnEarth and it’s a great resource if you need to know more about bees and the dangers of diminishing bee population. My apologies for the error!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Meet the beetles. And say goodbye to them!
If you are having problems with certain kinds of beetles who are uninvited guests in your landscape, you’ll want to read these two recent e-mails from readers.
QUESTION: “I am hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem I am seeing this year with my lily plants. I have many lilies around my home in New England of different varieties. Many of these are being eaten by what I believe is a Lily Leaf Beetle. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these little pests from doing further damage to my plants? I have heard that Bayer Rose and Flower spray can help with this problem.” – Lynn
ANSWER: Yes, the Bayer rose spray would work but you may want to try an organic remedy. I have a friend who sprayed his plants with a sugar water mixture (spray bottle with water and enough sugar added that will dissolve and stay in solution.) The beetles will eat the sugar but cannot digest it. After gorging themselves they will fly off to die. Just a thought that may work.
> From one type of beetle to another. Recently, I received the following
e-mail with a comment about an answer I’d given in a previous Plant Man column.
“Just wanted to comment on your reply to the question regarding Japanese beetles attacking linden trees. Your suggestion to use the peaches in a milk jug is very similar to other Japanese Beetle traps (Bag-a-bug) which use pheromones to lure the beetles. However, these traps do more harm than good in my opinion unless you place them far, far away from the plants they're intended to protect. They lure more than they catch.
“The best approach is to apply Milky Spore to turf grass in the surrounding areas where the beetle grubs reside. As the grubs are infected, they decompose and release billions of new spores which eventually results in long term control of the Japanese beetle problem. Our community is currently implementing a plan to treat all common areas and encourage all residents to treat their yards. In the interim, there are various insecticides if you're not opposed to chemicals (such as Bayer Advanced) that can be watered into the soil at the base of the tree and once absorbed move up through the tree to provide protection against Japanese beetles.” – Jasmine Jensen
ANSWER: Thank you for your suggestion, Jasmine. I’d like to learn more about what your community is doing in this regard. For readers who are not familiar with Milky Spore, you can find some very useful information online at a Web site hosted by the USDA titled “Managing the Japanese Beetle.” The address is http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html but the easiest way to get there is to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org and you can click on a direct link.
According to the USDA site, Milky Spore is the common name for spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This bacterium was first registered for use on turf in suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United States in 1948.
Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub's gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.
Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2-4 years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, and die, each releasing 1-2 billion spores back into the soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development of large beetle populations.
As Jasmine has discovered, it works best when applied in community-wide treatment programs. If you think you have a Japanese beetle problem, you’ll find an enormous amount of information at the USDA site I mentioned. They have also included a list of “best” and “worst” plants to have in your yard if Japanese beetles are a matter of concern. Check with your extension agent regarding the availability of Milky Spore material.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I am hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem I am seeing this year with my lily plants. I have many lilies around my home in New England of different varieties. Many of these are being eaten by what I believe is a Lily Leaf Beetle. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these little pests from doing further damage to my plants? I have heard that Bayer Rose and Flower spray can help with this problem.” – Lynn
ANSWER: Yes, the Bayer rose spray would work but you may want to try an organic remedy. I have a friend who sprayed his plants with a sugar water mixture (spray bottle with water and enough sugar added that will dissolve and stay in solution.) The beetles will eat the sugar but cannot digest it. After gorging themselves they will fly off to die. Just a thought that may work.
> From one type of beetle to another. Recently, I received the following
e-mail with a comment about an answer I’d given in a previous Plant Man column.
“Just wanted to comment on your reply to the question regarding Japanese beetles attacking linden trees. Your suggestion to use the peaches in a milk jug is very similar to other Japanese Beetle traps (Bag-a-bug) which use pheromones to lure the beetles. However, these traps do more harm than good in my opinion unless you place them far, far away from the plants they're intended to protect. They lure more than they catch.
“The best approach is to apply Milky Spore to turf grass in the surrounding areas where the beetle grubs reside. As the grubs are infected, they decompose and release billions of new spores which eventually results in long term control of the Japanese beetle problem. Our community is currently implementing a plan to treat all common areas and encourage all residents to treat their yards. In the interim, there are various insecticides if you're not opposed to chemicals (such as Bayer Advanced) that can be watered into the soil at the base of the tree and once absorbed move up through the tree to provide protection against Japanese beetles.” – Jasmine Jensen
ANSWER: Thank you for your suggestion, Jasmine. I’d like to learn more about what your community is doing in this regard. For readers who are not familiar with Milky Spore, you can find some very useful information online at a Web site hosted by the USDA titled “Managing the Japanese Beetle.” The address is http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html but the easiest way to get there is to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org and you can click on a direct link.
According to the USDA site, Milky Spore is the common name for spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This bacterium was first registered for use on turf in suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United States in 1948.
Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub's gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.
Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2-4 years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, and die, each releasing 1-2 billion spores back into the soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development of large beetle populations.
As Jasmine has discovered, it works best when applied in community-wide treatment programs. If you think you have a Japanese beetle problem, you’ll find an enormous amount of information at the USDA site I mentioned. They have also included a list of “best” and “worst” plants to have in your yard if Japanese beetles are a matter of concern. Check with your extension agent regarding the availability of Milky Spore material.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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