A new year... a new planting season just ahead... and some new plant ideas to bestow a fresh new look to your landscape.
At this time of year, we find ourselves seeking out things that are new and different. Several readers have contacted me at steve@landsteward.org and asked for plant suggestions that are a little out of the ordinary. Today, I’ll include a few of the suggestions that I sent to those readers.
What is “new and different” to one person is “been there, planted that” to another, but I hope that one or two of these will turn on a cartoon light bulb over your head!
Tennessee White Iris
This is quite an unusual plant. It is an almost iridescent white crested Iris that was discovered in a patch of regular Iris cristata Alba and singled out for cultivation. The Tennessee White has a fast growth rate, is hardy in zones 3 to 9 and can be planted in full sun, partial sun or shade.
When planting, bear in mind the scale of surrounding plants as the Tennessee White Iris will only reach a height of 10" to 12" with a spread of about 12" at maturity. At the end of the season, you can take them up and divide them for a larger display next season. They are not easy to find but well worth the effort if you want something unusual and quite spectacular. Send me an e-mail if you need some shopping information.
Pink Weigela
If you like the sight (and sound) of hummingbirds, the Pink Weigela acts like a hummingbird magnet when in full bloom. This is certainly not a “new” flowering shrub, but is being re-discovered by landscapers in many parts of the country. Cheryl and I have planted several and they are consistently covered in blooms through the spring and even re-bloom in the summer.
Leave them alone and they can reach 10 ft high and spread to 10 ft wide. However, when kept trimmed, a row of Pink Weigela make a delightfully colorful privacy hedge. They’re quite fast growing and do fine in zones 3 to 9 in full or partial sun or shade.
Fothergilla
Plant Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae and you’ll have an interesting reminder of early American history. This shrub was named after Dr. John Fothergill, a friend of Benjamin Franklin and a supporter of the Colonial cause in England in the 18th century where he specialized in growing American plants.
When in bloom, the Fothergilla’s dense, spiky white stamens resemble a bottle brush. In spring, the foliage ranges from blue-green to deep green and in fall, you’re treated to colors that range from yellow to orange to scarlet.
The Fothergilla is best suited to zones 4 - 8 and prefers acid, well-drained, moist soil. At maturity, you’ll see heights ranging from 3 ft to 6 ft.
Eldarica Pine
I am often asked about trees that are suitable for screening, so here’s one you might consider. The Eldarica matures to that familiar “Christmas tree” conical shape and can reach heights of 25 ft to 50 ft or more, with a spread of 25 ft to 40 ft.
It has a pleasant, fresh fragrance and is tolerant of marginal soils and tough climates in zones 3 to 9. It will do fine in hot, dry climates as well as colder climates and is drought, heat and wind tolerant once established.
Arizona Cypress
And lastly, a tree that would be better planted in the Southwest, as the name implies. This fairly fast-growing cypress will top out at around 35 ft with a spread up to 20 ft and displays dense sprays of bright blue-green foliage. This tree is ideal for planting in zones 7, 8 and 9 where it will tolerate hot, dry conditions.
So there you have it. A few suggestions, some of which might be familiar and some might be new to you. As always, I’m happy to provide more information or maybe come up with some specific recommendations that suit your particular needs when you send me an e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, December 29, 2005
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 12/25/05 - 12/31/05
(730 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 12/25/05 - 12/31/05
(730 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Tree thieves may be targeting your "growing investment"
Tree thieves may be targeting your "growing investment"
Tree thieves are in the news again. A reader recently sent me a newspaper story about alleged thieves targeting hemlock trees. According to the article, park rangers found 2,700 hemlock saplings and seedlings dug from the Grundy Forest Natural Area, near Tracy City, Tennessee.
The park rangers arrested three men who had apparently planned to sell the hemlocks to a plant nursery. As a nurseryman myself, I can say that it would have been unlikely that any nursery would have been gullible enough to buy the trees from these alleged rustlers. Apart from the legal issues, those hemlocks would have been unlikely to survive the trauma.
According to the newspaper article, John Christof, the Natural Area manager said, "We put every one of the trees back in the ground as soon as we could [but] I believe 99% died."
At this time of year, many tree rustlers target Christmas tree farms, and even some homeowners wake up to find only a stump in their front yard where a fir tree had stood previously.
However, most "professional" tree rustlers are interested in how much a sawmill will pay them for the freshly cut trunk. Sawmills talk in terms of "dollars per board-foot" and pay higher prices for trees that, in turn, realize the best profits for them.
In previous columns, I’ve recommended that you should be extra vigilant if you have trees on your property that carry a high dollar value. Here are three trees that can be potential targets for tree thieves:
Black Walnut
One of my favorites, and proving increasingly popular with timberjackers, too. One reason: it has earned the nickname of "the money tree", because of its value to furniture makers. Over the past thirty years or so, the black walnut has once again achieved its former glory thanks to the development of genetically superior cultivars.
Black walnut trees can be a remarkably good investment. I know folks who have plantations of black walnuts that they expect will provide for their retirement in a few years. You can find several articles and archived columns about black walnut trees at my Web site if this sounds like something you'd be interested in. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the Plant Man columns, or type "black walnut" into the Search window.
Sugar Maple
Sometimes known as Birds-eye maple or Acer Saccharum, the timber is often used for making picture frames. However, I like this tree because it's the perfect shade tree and looks great on a good sized lawn. That's why you can see them in municipal parks and on golf courses.
White Oak
Tree thieves love this one, too. I think the word to describe the white oak is ‘majestic', particularly when you see one that reaches a hundred or more feet from the ground.
I should emphasize that there’s no need to decide against planting these trees simply because they are popular with treejackers. They add beauty and elegance to your landscape and will probably increase the resale value of your home, should you decide to sell in the future. However, it pays to be aware that there are bad guys out there and you might need to take steps to protect your investment!
You can find more information at my Web site by typing "tree thieves" into the search window. You can also find out more about the trees mentioned above by finding this column archived under the Plant Man heading and clicking on the hot links.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Tree thieves are in the news again. A reader recently sent me a newspaper story about alleged thieves targeting hemlock trees. According to the article, park rangers found 2,700 hemlock saplings and seedlings dug from the Grundy Forest Natural Area, near Tracy City, Tennessee.
The park rangers arrested three men who had apparently planned to sell the hemlocks to a plant nursery. As a nurseryman myself, I can say that it would have been unlikely that any nursery would have been gullible enough to buy the trees from these alleged rustlers. Apart from the legal issues, those hemlocks would have been unlikely to survive the trauma.
According to the newspaper article, John Christof, the Natural Area manager said, "We put every one of the trees back in the ground as soon as we could [but] I believe 99% died."
At this time of year, many tree rustlers target Christmas tree farms, and even some homeowners wake up to find only a stump in their front yard where a fir tree had stood previously.
However, most "professional" tree rustlers are interested in how much a sawmill will pay them for the freshly cut trunk. Sawmills talk in terms of "dollars per board-foot" and pay higher prices for trees that, in turn, realize the best profits for them.
In previous columns, I’ve recommended that you should be extra vigilant if you have trees on your property that carry a high dollar value. Here are three trees that can be potential targets for tree thieves:
Black Walnut
One of my favorites, and proving increasingly popular with timberjackers, too. One reason: it has earned the nickname of "the money tree", because of its value to furniture makers. Over the past thirty years or so, the black walnut has once again achieved its former glory thanks to the development of genetically superior cultivars.
Black walnut trees can be a remarkably good investment. I know folks who have plantations of black walnuts that they expect will provide for their retirement in a few years. You can find several articles and archived columns about black walnut trees at my Web site if this sounds like something you'd be interested in. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the Plant Man columns, or type "black walnut" into the Search window.
Sugar Maple
Sometimes known as Birds-eye maple or Acer Saccharum, the timber is often used for making picture frames. However, I like this tree because it's the perfect shade tree and looks great on a good sized lawn. That's why you can see them in municipal parks and on golf courses.
White Oak
Tree thieves love this one, too. I think the word to describe the white oak is ‘majestic', particularly when you see one that reaches a hundred or more feet from the ground.
I should emphasize that there’s no need to decide against planting these trees simply because they are popular with treejackers. They add beauty and elegance to your landscape and will probably increase the resale value of your home, should you decide to sell in the future. However, it pays to be aware that there are bad guys out there and you might need to take steps to protect your investment!
You can find more information at my Web site by typing "tree thieves" into the search window. You can also find out more about the trees mentioned above by finding this column archived under the Plant Man heading and clicking on the hot links.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
“Sold” on compost? Here’s how to make your pile
Creating a compost pile is one of the simplest jobs you can do around your garden and landscape. However, it is also just about the most effective use of your time because it pays big dividends in the form of vibrant soil and healthy plants.
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, November 18, 2005
Compost: the free gateway to super soil
Is it really worth starting your own compost pile? Aren’t you simply creating a smelly eyesore that’s just a glorified trash dump?
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, November 10, 2005
Fall garden fix-its now save problems next spring
Here’s what you DON’T want to say next spring: “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!” To avoid giving yourself a dope-slap a few months from now, follow this fall fix-it checklist.
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 20, 2005
Falling leaves: love ‘em or leave ‘em?
There’s a reason they call this season “fall.” Those leaves that look so beautiful as they turn from green to gold to crimson don’t look so attractive when they’ve become a sodden carpet on your lawn.
So what should you do? Rake? Mow? Mulch? Or simply leave the leaves alone?
Let’s look at the last one first. It’s tempting to procrastinate and put off dealing with those leaves “because there are still a few that haven’t fallen yet.” Bad idea... for several reasons.
Freshly fallen leaves are light and brittle, making them easy to rake or pile up with a blower. Wet, compacted leaves are heavy, difficult to rake and almost impossible to move with a leaf-blower. Ignore the leaves now and your chore will be even harder later!
But there’s an even more important reason: disease control. A carpet of wet leaves will prevent essential sunlight and air from reaching your lawn and will encourage various diseases to get a grip on your sod.
So we agree that keeping fallen leaves under control throughout the season is your best policy. What are your options?
Raking
Before I start raking the lawn, I try to remind myself to rake all the accumulated leaves out from the flower beds and around the various shrubs. It can be disheartening to survey your freshly raked lawn... and then spot the leaves, twigs and other debris you missed, lurking under your bushes! During the winter, the freeze-thaw-freeze cycle can cause dead grass and organic material to release soluble phosphates and nitrates that can run off frozen ground and enter surface water.
Mowing
If you start early enough, while the layer of fallen leaves is quite light and brittle, you can simply run the mower over them. With a regular mower, you’ll probably want to make two or three passes to be sure you’ve shredded the leaves into very small particles. If you have a large area of lawn and a number of trees, you might want to invest in a mulching mower. This machine can shred leaves virtually into a powder. This has the added benefit of adding a natural mulch to your lawn while saving you the labor of raking and bagging.
Composting
If you are serious about your landscape, you probably have a compost pile. If not, this could be a good time to start one. There are several helpful articles and previous columns on this subject archived at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can scroll through the columns under the Plant Man heading. If you have specific questions on this subject (or any other) feel free to send an e-mail to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you a personal reply.
While you’re doing your fall clean-up chores, remember to add those fading “leggy” annuals and any vines from your vegetable garden to the leaves in your compost so the can all cook together. Do not add meat or bones to your compost as you’re likely to attract unwanted critters or your own pets. Diseased plants or clippings from a lawn recently treated with a herbicide or a weedkiller should not go into your compost either.
Lawn care
Even if your lawn is completely free of fallen leaves, it still needs a little TLC at this time of year. Mow the grass so it is between two and three inches. Why? Grass that is much longer than three inches can mat and this can encourage winter diseases such as snow mold. Cut grass down to less than two inches and you can adversely affect your lawn’s capability to absorb and store the nutrients it will need to come back strong next spring.
Fertilizing your lawn
If your lawn could do with a little boost, fall is a good time to apply fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you’ll need about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If you’re a fan of organic solutions (as I am), send me an e-mail and I’ll give you some details about an organic “turf tea” that I found recently.
If you mow ‘em, mulch ‘em or bag ‘em, now is the time to work on those leaves. If you listen carefully, you’ll hear your lawn sighing happily!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
So what should you do? Rake? Mow? Mulch? Or simply leave the leaves alone?
Let’s look at the last one first. It’s tempting to procrastinate and put off dealing with those leaves “because there are still a few that haven’t fallen yet.” Bad idea... for several reasons.
Freshly fallen leaves are light and brittle, making them easy to rake or pile up with a blower. Wet, compacted leaves are heavy, difficult to rake and almost impossible to move with a leaf-blower. Ignore the leaves now and your chore will be even harder later!
But there’s an even more important reason: disease control. A carpet of wet leaves will prevent essential sunlight and air from reaching your lawn and will encourage various diseases to get a grip on your sod.
So we agree that keeping fallen leaves under control throughout the season is your best policy. What are your options?
Raking
Before I start raking the lawn, I try to remind myself to rake all the accumulated leaves out from the flower beds and around the various shrubs. It can be disheartening to survey your freshly raked lawn... and then spot the leaves, twigs and other debris you missed, lurking under your bushes! During the winter, the freeze-thaw-freeze cycle can cause dead grass and organic material to release soluble phosphates and nitrates that can run off frozen ground and enter surface water.
Mowing
If you start early enough, while the layer of fallen leaves is quite light and brittle, you can simply run the mower over them. With a regular mower, you’ll probably want to make two or three passes to be sure you’ve shredded the leaves into very small particles. If you have a large area of lawn and a number of trees, you might want to invest in a mulching mower. This machine can shred leaves virtually into a powder. This has the added benefit of adding a natural mulch to your lawn while saving you the labor of raking and bagging.
Composting
If you are serious about your landscape, you probably have a compost pile. If not, this could be a good time to start one. There are several helpful articles and previous columns on this subject archived at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can scroll through the columns under the Plant Man heading. If you have specific questions on this subject (or any other) feel free to send an e-mail to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you a personal reply.
While you’re doing your fall clean-up chores, remember to add those fading “leggy” annuals and any vines from your vegetable garden to the leaves in your compost so the can all cook together. Do not add meat or bones to your compost as you’re likely to attract unwanted critters or your own pets. Diseased plants or clippings from a lawn recently treated with a herbicide or a weedkiller should not go into your compost either.
Lawn care
Even if your lawn is completely free of fallen leaves, it still needs a little TLC at this time of year. Mow the grass so it is between two and three inches. Why? Grass that is much longer than three inches can mat and this can encourage winter diseases such as snow mold. Cut grass down to less than two inches and you can adversely affect your lawn’s capability to absorb and store the nutrients it will need to come back strong next spring.
Fertilizing your lawn
If your lawn could do with a little boost, fall is a good time to apply fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you’ll need about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If you’re a fan of organic solutions (as I am), send me an e-mail and I’ll give you some details about an organic “turf tea” that I found recently.
If you mow ‘em, mulch ‘em or bag ‘em, now is the time to work on those leaves. If you listen carefully, you’ll hear your lawn sighing happily!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 13, 2005
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 10/16/05 - 10/22/05
(758 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
Getting started on creating your ideal landscape can be the toughest part. You can envision stately trees and lush beds of beautiful shrubs and perennials, but exactly how do you go about it?
I fully understand those feelings! In the previous column I described a painless way to plan your garden and to mark out the proposed beds with a garden hose or a length of rope before you dig.
If you missed that column you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on the Plant Man heading and find the column titled “How to get started on your landscaping project.”
Today I will review some elements of design and how you can apply these to your new landscape. In reality, of course, you need to consider these elements (and the plants you would like to include) at the planning stage, because this could affect the size, shape and location of your new beds.
Although the actual plants you select should take into account the “plant hardiness zone” in which you live, certain design principals are fairly universal. I’m sure we’ve all seen examples of landscaping where well-meaning but misguided homeowners have created something that... well, just looks “wrong.” Maybe the scale relationship between the plants and the house looks odd, or the plantings don’t seem to flow.
Here are some artistic elements to consider when you’re planning your landscape:
Color
Line
Texture
Scale
Balance
One of the best explanations I’ve ever seen of how to use these design elements is titled “Basic Principles of Landscape Design,” written by Dewayne L. Ingram of the University of Florida Extension Service. The article is online at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG086 and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site. The article is packed with information and I highly recommend it.
Here is a brief summary of what Mr. Ingram says about these elements:
Color
A good start is a color wheel, available at art and hobby shops, showing primary colors (red, blue and yellow), secondary colors (the blending of primary colors, such as red and yellow creating orange) and so on. The wheel will help you decide if you want monochromatic, analogous or complementary color schemes.
Briefly, a monochromatic layout uses plants that are different shades and tints of one color, whereas analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel.
You can also use color to change the perception of distance. For example, plants with cool colors such as blue and green, placed around a home’s foundation, can make the house visually appear further back from the street.
Line
Line is the element that refers to flow or eye-movement. A straight line of plantings leads the eye directly to a point, whereas curved lines create a relaxed, natural feel.
Texture
Texture is something you can see and feel. Textures might be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, dull or glossy. Smooth, glossy leaves seen against the rough texture of stone or brick wall can be an interesting juxtaposition.
Scale
Often overlooked, scale is an important element to consider when choosing plants for your new landscape. Certainly, you’re unlikely to want every plant to be exactly the same height, but beware of allowing one plant to overpower its neighbors.
Balance
Do you want the left side to be an exact mirror image of the right side? Or do you prefer an asymmetrical balance, using color, line, texture and scale? (See above!)
Above all, plan a landscape that appeals to your personal taste; one that you and your family will enjoy looking at and living in. As for specific plants, perhaps those that would work well together in terms of texture, scale and the other elements discussed here, I’m always happy to offer personal suggestions if you send a few details to steve@landsteward.org
Meanwhile here are two other online resources you might find useful as you plan your new landscape. As always you can click on direct links from this column at my Web site.
http://landscaping.about.com/c/ec/1.htm
Online landscape design course: 108 free e-mailed lessons from landscaping.about.com
http://www.khake.com/page80.html
100's of landscape planning links provided by the Vocational Information Center
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 10/16/05 - 10/22/05
(758 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
Getting started on creating your ideal landscape can be the toughest part. You can envision stately trees and lush beds of beautiful shrubs and perennials, but exactly how do you go about it?
I fully understand those feelings! In the previous column I described a painless way to plan your garden and to mark out the proposed beds with a garden hose or a length of rope before you dig.
If you missed that column you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on the Plant Man heading and find the column titled “How to get started on your landscaping project.”
Today I will review some elements of design and how you can apply these to your new landscape. In reality, of course, you need to consider these elements (and the plants you would like to include) at the planning stage, because this could affect the size, shape and location of your new beds.
Although the actual plants you select should take into account the “plant hardiness zone” in which you live, certain design principals are fairly universal. I’m sure we’ve all seen examples of landscaping where well-meaning but misguided homeowners have created something that... well, just looks “wrong.” Maybe the scale relationship between the plants and the house looks odd, or the plantings don’t seem to flow.
Here are some artistic elements to consider when you’re planning your landscape:
Color
Line
Texture
Scale
Balance
One of the best explanations I’ve ever seen of how to use these design elements is titled “Basic Principles of Landscape Design,” written by Dewayne L. Ingram of the University of Florida Extension Service. The article is online at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG086 and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site. The article is packed with information and I highly recommend it.
Here is a brief summary of what Mr. Ingram says about these elements:
Color
A good start is a color wheel, available at art and hobby shops, showing primary colors (red, blue and yellow), secondary colors (the blending of primary colors, such as red and yellow creating orange) and so on. The wheel will help you decide if you want monochromatic, analogous or complementary color schemes.
Briefly, a monochromatic layout uses plants that are different shades and tints of one color, whereas analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel.
You can also use color to change the perception of distance. For example, plants with cool colors such as blue and green, placed around a home’s foundation, can make the house visually appear further back from the street.
Line
Line is the element that refers to flow or eye-movement. A straight line of plantings leads the eye directly to a point, whereas curved lines create a relaxed, natural feel.
Texture
Texture is something you can see and feel. Textures might be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, dull or glossy. Smooth, glossy leaves seen against the rough texture of stone or brick wall can be an interesting juxtaposition.
Scale
Often overlooked, scale is an important element to consider when choosing plants for your new landscape. Certainly, you’re unlikely to want every plant to be exactly the same height, but beware of allowing one plant to overpower its neighbors.
Balance
Do you want the left side to be an exact mirror image of the right side? Or do you prefer an asymmetrical balance, using color, line, texture and scale? (See above!)
Above all, plan a landscape that appeals to your personal taste; one that you and your family will enjoy looking at and living in. As for specific plants, perhaps those that would work well together in terms of texture, scale and the other elements discussed here, I’m always happy to offer personal suggestions if you send a few details to steve@landsteward.org
Meanwhile here are two other online resources you might find useful as you plan your new landscape. As always you can click on direct links from this column at my Web site.
http://landscaping.about.com/c/ec/1.htm
Online landscape design course: 108 free e-mailed lessons from landscaping.about.com
http://www.khake.com/page80.html
100's of landscape planning links provided by the Vocational Information Center
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 06, 2005
How to get started on your landscaping project
You look out of your window and all you see is wide expanse of nothing but grass, but what you really want to see is a vista of attractive landscaping with colorful shrubs and trees. Or perhaps you’re looking at a tangle of brambles and ugly bushes that have gotten out of control and you’d love to create an easy-care outdoor oasis.
Does this sound like you? If so, read on.
As with any project, the biggest hurdle is getting started. And the biggest problem to that is knowing HOW to get started! Today, I hope to give you some inspiration to help you do just that: get started.
It all begins with an idea and getting that idea down on paper. It doesn’t have to be a fancy architect-style blueprint, but if you have some kind of drafting skills, so much the better. Look at the Deeds to your property or get a long tape measure and sketch out the rough shape of the land on a piece of paper. You can just “eyeball” it at this stage if you have to.
Draw the shapes of the beds you’d like to see and where you might plant trees. Try several different layouts until you find a basic layout that appeals to you.
Formal or informal?
If your house has a distinctly “formal” look (such as symmetrical Georgian style) consider echoing that look with a formal landscape layout. This might include a straight path leading to a centrally-placed “island” with neatly squared-off hedges.
A less formal house design can inspire an informal landscape layout with curving pathways of irregular stone slabs winding between beds of shrubs that spill over the walkway in places and a hidden seating area amid a cool arbor of trees.
Now, go outside and translate your sketch to the real world. No, you won’t need a shovel just yet. You’ll want to layout your proposed beds on the grass before you start digging. A simple way is to use your garden hose or a long piece of rope. Lay the hose or the rope on the ground and move it in or out, forward or back, curved or straight until you’ve created a line that is pleasing to your eye.
My advice at this stage is to go to a garden center or a hardware store and buy a can of marking paint. This is a spray can designed only to work upside-down. You can find cans that dispense chalk instead of paint, but this is less effective if you anticipate wet conditions.
Does size matter?
A frequent error made by amateur landscapers is making the beds too small. Narrow, thin beds or tiny islands looks goofy, particularly as the shrubs and other plantings mature and spread out. Trust me on this: If you’re in any doubt, move that garden hose or rope and make the bed larger than you originally planned. Step back and take a look. Better still, find a way to look at it from a higher vantage point, such as a second story window.
If you’re replacing plantings in an existing bed (or in a bed that you will reshape to a more pleasing layout) simply dig up and dispose of the old plants, being sure to get all the roots and other debris. Creating a “virgin” bed from an area of lawn takes a little more finesse.
Following your painted guideline, cut down about one-and-a-half inches and peel the sod back towards the center of the bed.. Now you can do one of two things. You can remove ALL of the unwanted sod from the new bed and dispose of it.
Or you can firmly pack down the peeled-back sod (so it’s all “green side down”) and cover the entire pile with about 10 or 12 layers of newspaper and/or brown paper grocery bags. If you use this second method, you can leave it for a while for nature to kill off the grass for you, without resorting to chemical means. If you prefer using chemicals, send me an e-mail and I’ll suggest some products for you.
Next time in this column, I’ll continue with the theme of getting started with your brand-new landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Does this sound like you? If so, read on.
As with any project, the biggest hurdle is getting started. And the biggest problem to that is knowing HOW to get started! Today, I hope to give you some inspiration to help you do just that: get started.
It all begins with an idea and getting that idea down on paper. It doesn’t have to be a fancy architect-style blueprint, but if you have some kind of drafting skills, so much the better. Look at the Deeds to your property or get a long tape measure and sketch out the rough shape of the land on a piece of paper. You can just “eyeball” it at this stage if you have to.
Draw the shapes of the beds you’d like to see and where you might plant trees. Try several different layouts until you find a basic layout that appeals to you.
Formal or informal?
If your house has a distinctly “formal” look (such as symmetrical Georgian style) consider echoing that look with a formal landscape layout. This might include a straight path leading to a centrally-placed “island” with neatly squared-off hedges.
A less formal house design can inspire an informal landscape layout with curving pathways of irregular stone slabs winding between beds of shrubs that spill over the walkway in places and a hidden seating area amid a cool arbor of trees.
Now, go outside and translate your sketch to the real world. No, you won’t need a shovel just yet. You’ll want to layout your proposed beds on the grass before you start digging. A simple way is to use your garden hose or a long piece of rope. Lay the hose or the rope on the ground and move it in or out, forward or back, curved or straight until you’ve created a line that is pleasing to your eye.
My advice at this stage is to go to a garden center or a hardware store and buy a can of marking paint. This is a spray can designed only to work upside-down. You can find cans that dispense chalk instead of paint, but this is less effective if you anticipate wet conditions.
Does size matter?
A frequent error made by amateur landscapers is making the beds too small. Narrow, thin beds or tiny islands looks goofy, particularly as the shrubs and other plantings mature and spread out. Trust me on this: If you’re in any doubt, move that garden hose or rope and make the bed larger than you originally planned. Step back and take a look. Better still, find a way to look at it from a higher vantage point, such as a second story window.
If you’re replacing plantings in an existing bed (or in a bed that you will reshape to a more pleasing layout) simply dig up and dispose of the old plants, being sure to get all the roots and other debris. Creating a “virgin” bed from an area of lawn takes a little more finesse.
Following your painted guideline, cut down about one-and-a-half inches and peel the sod back towards the center of the bed.. Now you can do one of two things. You can remove ALL of the unwanted sod from the new bed and dispose of it.
Or you can firmly pack down the peeled-back sod (so it’s all “green side down”) and cover the entire pile with about 10 or 12 layers of newspaper and/or brown paper grocery bags. If you use this second method, you can leave it for a while for nature to kill off the grass for you, without resorting to chemical means. If you prefer using chemicals, send me an e-mail and I’ll suggest some products for you.
Next time in this column, I’ll continue with the theme of getting started with your brand-new landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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