For farmers, there are only two kinds of rainfall: too much and not enough. Those of us who are into gardening and landscaping can sympathize with that! However, unlike farmers, most of us don’t have thousands of acres to worry about. That means we can concentrate our efforts on finding plants that can withstand the prevailing weather conditions in our (relatively) small patch of soil.
The Plant Man’s simple rule of (green) thumb? Select trees and shrubs whose characteristics match the USDA plant hardiness zone where you live and the specific moisture conditions of your landscape.
However much you have your heart set on a plant you saw in Taos, New Mexico, it probably won’t thrive in your front yard if you live in the Pacific northwest. Similarly, plants that grow lush and verdant in high-precipitation areas are probably doomed in sun-baked Arizona.
In my next column, I’ll discuss some trees and shrubs that would be suitable for planting in soil that ranges from moist to swampy. But today, let’s think about plants that do just fine in dry soil conditions or can handle lower than average precipitation.
A word of caution: although they incline towards the dry side of the flora spectrum, none of the plants described here are truly “drought proof.”
Austrian Pine
If you have dry, rocky or windy conditions and soil that is anything from limestone to acidic, this is probably the tree for you. It looks good as a stand alone or you can plant them about 6 ft apart to form a screen or a windbreak. Even in poor, sandy soil, it grows quickly to 75 -100 ft.
Princeton Elm
Resistant to the dreaded Dutch Elm disease, the Princeton seems to do well in a wide range of weather conditions from the bitter cold of northern plains to the sweltering heat of Texas. A majestic, fast-growing shade tree.
Redbud “Don Egolf”
The horticulturist Don Shadow brought this new cultivar to my attention and he tells me that it tolerates many different soil types and is especially good in areas that tend to be dry. Don Egolf produces remarkable rosy-mauve blooms and is ideal for smaller gardens, maturing at a height of about 9 ft with a 9ft spread.
By the way, if you have trouble tracking down any of the plants I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll see if I can help you.
Honeysuckle, Reynolds Red
This prized cultivar of tartarian honeysuckle puts out bright red blooms in the spring and makes a beautiful and fragrant natural hedge. It creates a delightful (and effective) windbreak and withstands drought and extreme temperatures, doing fine in salt or alkali soil.
Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’
This isn’t strictly drought resistant, but I’ve included it because it’s a low-growing plant that looks so good in a rock garden or between stones in a dry stone wall and does just fine in full sun and dryish, well-drained soil. It has brilliant magenta, clove-scented blooms and silvery-blue evergreen foliage.
Sedum Golden Carpet
If you want an attractive groundcover but are stuck with dry, sandy soil, look for Golden Carpet, one of the hardiest of the Sedums. The bright yellow blooms look great cascading over artfully placed rocks.
“Your results may vary,” as they say on TV, and when in doubt, opt for plants that are native to your geographic area rather than seeking out exotics. As always, send me an a-mail with a few details such as location, soil type and desired results and I will be happy to respond with some specific comments and suggestions.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, May 24, 2006
Wednesday, May 17, 2006
Create a haven of privacy with the right trees and shrubs
Ah, privacy! If you live on a ranch in Wyoming or in a cabin in the wilds of Montana, that’s probably not a problem. But if you’re like most of us, you have neighbors quite close on each side of you and maybe overlooking the back of your lot as well.
Even if you’re smack in the middle of suburbia surrounded by other homes, there IS some good news. You don’t have to build a 15 foot brick wall around your perimeter just to secure your privacy. After all, who wants to live in Fort Knox without the gold?
In the previous Plant Man column, I described ways that trees and shrubs can help to insulate your home and garden from noise pollution, wind and heat, making your life more comfortable and your utility bills less demanding. If you missed that column you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
But as modern homes are being built closer and closer together, concerns about privacy become even more pressing for many of us. Fortunately, there are a number of “green” solutions that can provide the private haven you want without taking the ugly route.
The following e-mail is a case in point. It was fielded by my wife Cheryl.
QUESTION: “I live in a lovely cul de sac neighborhood, but I live on the corner and my whole yard is exposed, mainly the whole backyard. The lot is 3/4 acres and the house faces north. So rather than putting up an ugly wood fence, I was wondering if I could create some type of natural fence when I came across an article at your Web site.
“I mainly want to close in the backyard on the northeast side and half way across the back property line. The rest opens to neighbors whose kids play with my kids, and to forest in the back. If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear about them.” – Barry Preising
ANSWER: If the house across from yours has landscaping on the exposed area along the street, you may want to do something similar to keep a balanced look in the neighborhood. Should there be no house there or if they don’t have any landscaping, here are a couple of thoughts.
Rather than the straight uniform look of a hedge, plant in groupings of plants (trees, shrubs and perennials) or a graduated hedge with breaks along the way. Beginning toward the front part of the property, plant a low growing hedge (rosa rugosa, burning bush or even ornamental grasses) along the first 1/3 of the length breaking up the plants every 20 to 30 feet with a green giant or another evergreen tree. For the next 1/3, plant a taller growing hedge such as hibiscus, clumping bamboo, or Canadian hemlock (kept at about 8 feet tall). Along the back 1/3, plant a tall growing evergreen hedge of cedar green giants or similar.
Planting a hedge in S-form in an interesting way to create a hedge without it being completely straight. When planting using this method, add smaller growing shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses in the indented areas. Using a partial fence area works great as well. The fence blocks the area you want to keep most private and then landscape with varied plants on each end as far as necessary to carry out the visual of the fence. I hope you can use one of these suggestions.
I believe the column that Barry referred to was titled “Use trees and shrubs to define your landscape.” You can find it at http://www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/6613 if you need more information on this subject. Alternatively, drop me an e-mail, like Barry did, with some specifics about the problem you’re wrestling with. I’ll respond personally and your question might appear in a future column or in my newsletter.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Even if you’re smack in the middle of suburbia surrounded by other homes, there IS some good news. You don’t have to build a 15 foot brick wall around your perimeter just to secure your privacy. After all, who wants to live in Fort Knox without the gold?
In the previous Plant Man column, I described ways that trees and shrubs can help to insulate your home and garden from noise pollution, wind and heat, making your life more comfortable and your utility bills less demanding. If you missed that column you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
But as modern homes are being built closer and closer together, concerns about privacy become even more pressing for many of us. Fortunately, there are a number of “green” solutions that can provide the private haven you want without taking the ugly route.
The following e-mail is a case in point. It was fielded by my wife Cheryl.
QUESTION: “I live in a lovely cul de sac neighborhood, but I live on the corner and my whole yard is exposed, mainly the whole backyard. The lot is 3/4 acres and the house faces north. So rather than putting up an ugly wood fence, I was wondering if I could create some type of natural fence when I came across an article at your Web site.
“I mainly want to close in the backyard on the northeast side and half way across the back property line. The rest opens to neighbors whose kids play with my kids, and to forest in the back. If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear about them.” – Barry Preising
ANSWER: If the house across from yours has landscaping on the exposed area along the street, you may want to do something similar to keep a balanced look in the neighborhood. Should there be no house there or if they don’t have any landscaping, here are a couple of thoughts.
Rather than the straight uniform look of a hedge, plant in groupings of plants (trees, shrubs and perennials) or a graduated hedge with breaks along the way. Beginning toward the front part of the property, plant a low growing hedge (rosa rugosa, burning bush or even ornamental grasses) along the first 1/3 of the length breaking up the plants every 20 to 30 feet with a green giant or another evergreen tree. For the next 1/3, plant a taller growing hedge such as hibiscus, clumping bamboo, or Canadian hemlock (kept at about 8 feet tall). Along the back 1/3, plant a tall growing evergreen hedge of cedar green giants or similar.
Planting a hedge in S-form in an interesting way to create a hedge without it being completely straight. When planting using this method, add smaller growing shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses in the indented areas. Using a partial fence area works great as well. The fence blocks the area you want to keep most private and then landscape with varied plants on each end as far as necessary to carry out the visual of the fence. I hope you can use one of these suggestions.
I believe the column that Barry referred to was titled “Use trees and shrubs to define your landscape.” You can find it at http://www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/6613 if you need more information on this subject. Alternatively, drop me an e-mail, like Barry did, with some specifics about the problem you’re wrestling with. I’ll respond personally and your question might appear in a future column or in my newsletter.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, May 11, 2006
Three ways trees make your life easier, more comfortable
Trees. Do you plant them on your property so you can enjoy their growing beauty over many years while adding to the value of your home in the future real estate market? Nothing wrong with that! But in addition to aesthetics, trees provide three very practical benefits that add to your comfort and well-being... and even save you some of your hard-earned money.
Trees create a sound barrier
Living close to persistent noise can make you sick. In addition to the possibility of hearing loss, noise has been shown to cause stress, tension and anxiety. If your home is close to a noise source, such as a highway or an industrial complex, planting a “noise buffer” consisting of trees and shrubs can reduce noise by 5 to 10 decibels, effectively reducing the sound by up to 50% to the human ear.
According to an excellent Web site hosted by Agroforestry, the best results are obtained when the noise buffer is planted as close as possible to the source of the noise (rather than close to the area you wish to protect).
The Agroforestry site also recommends planting the trees and shrubs as close together as the species will allow. Additionally, choose plants with dense foliage, preferably foliage that is growing all the way to the ground. As you might guess, evergreen trees provide better year-round noise reduction.
If noise is giving you a migraine, I recommend a visit to http://www.agroforestry.net/overstory-back-issues/20-overstory-236-using-agroforestry-to-buffer-noise where you can find more detailed planting information to various noise pollution problems.
Trees provide wind protection
If you are troubled by blowing dust and debris around your home, thoughtfully planted trees can reduce the problem. But reducing the effect of wind on your home can also keep some dollars in your pocket.
Research conducted on the Great Plains has shown that up to 25 percent energy savings for heating is possible from windbreaks. An evergreen, properly placed, can divert cold winds away from the home. Locate the windbreak upwind from the home, according to advice from the Colorado State University Co-operative extension. http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/landscaping-for-energy-conservation-7-225/
To reduce wind velocity, the recommended distance from your house is between and three times tree height (at maturity) but you’ll still reap wind-reducing benefits from trees planted at a distance of up to six tree heights.
Trees provide shade
Before you say “Duh,” I’m not just referring to the shade you enjoy while sipping lemonade in your hammock. Your home benefits from being shaded from the heat of the sun, and trees are a natural sunshade.
Carefully positioned shade trees can save up to 25% of a household's energy consumption for heating and cooling, according to computer models created by the U.S. Department of Energy. They estimate that the proper placement of only three trees would save an average household between $100 and $250 in energy costs annually.
While you’re at it, create some shade for that air-conditioning unit that’s chugging away under the broiling summer sun.
In a nutshell, trees can reduce the headache-inducing effects of noise, the nuisance of wind and the size of your utility bills.
Which specific trees and shrubs should you plant to achieve one or more of these results? In many cases, this will depend on your geographic location and any unique contributing factors that affect your landscape. If you’re unsure about what would work best for your particular situation, send some of your details in an e-mail to info@greenwoodnursery.com and we’ll do our best to reply with some suggestions.
Another benefit of trees? Privacy! And that’s the subject of next week’s Plant Man column!
This article was also featured in the Plant Man Column.
Trees create a sound barrier
Living close to persistent noise can make you sick. In addition to the possibility of hearing loss, noise has been shown to cause stress, tension and anxiety. If your home is close to a noise source, such as a highway or an industrial complex, planting a “noise buffer” consisting of trees and shrubs can reduce noise by 5 to 10 decibels, effectively reducing the sound by up to 50% to the human ear.
According to an excellent Web site hosted by Agroforestry, the best results are obtained when the noise buffer is planted as close as possible to the source of the noise (rather than close to the area you wish to protect).
The Agroforestry site also recommends planting the trees and shrubs as close together as the species will allow. Additionally, choose plants with dense foliage, preferably foliage that is growing all the way to the ground. As you might guess, evergreen trees provide better year-round noise reduction.
If noise is giving you a migraine, I recommend a visit to http://www.agroforestry.net/overstory-back-issues/20-overstory-236-using-agroforestry-to-buffer-noise where you can find more detailed planting information to various noise pollution problems.
Trees provide wind protection
If you are troubled by blowing dust and debris around your home, thoughtfully planted trees can reduce the problem. But reducing the effect of wind on your home can also keep some dollars in your pocket.
Research conducted on the Great Plains has shown that up to 25 percent energy savings for heating is possible from windbreaks. An evergreen, properly placed, can divert cold winds away from the home. Locate the windbreak upwind from the home, according to advice from the Colorado State University Co-operative extension. http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/landscaping-for-energy-conservation-7-225/
To reduce wind velocity, the recommended distance from your house is between and three times tree height (at maturity) but you’ll still reap wind-reducing benefits from trees planted at a distance of up to six tree heights.
Trees provide shade
Before you say “Duh,” I’m not just referring to the shade you enjoy while sipping lemonade in your hammock. Your home benefits from being shaded from the heat of the sun, and trees are a natural sunshade.
Carefully positioned shade trees can save up to 25% of a household's energy consumption for heating and cooling, according to computer models created by the U.S. Department of Energy. They estimate that the proper placement of only three trees would save an average household between $100 and $250 in energy costs annually.
While you’re at it, create some shade for that air-conditioning unit that’s chugging away under the broiling summer sun.
In a nutshell, trees can reduce the headache-inducing effects of noise, the nuisance of wind and the size of your utility bills.
Which specific trees and shrubs should you plant to achieve one or more of these results? In many cases, this will depend on your geographic location and any unique contributing factors that affect your landscape. If you’re unsure about what would work best for your particular situation, send some of your details in an e-mail to info@greenwoodnursery.com and we’ll do our best to reply with some suggestions.
Another benefit of trees? Privacy! And that’s the subject of next week’s Plant Man column!
This article was also featured in the Plant Man Column.
Thursday, May 04, 2006
Dogwoods, cedars or shrubs: spouses have different ideas!
Sometimes, the questions I receive are more concerned with “domestic relationships” than with the specific landscape problems they describe. Two people who agree on most everything can have very differing opinions concerning what to plant around the home they share...
QUESTION: “We have a 1/4 acre lot our house sets on, two neighbors to the side, a busy road directly behind us with only a berm to separate us, and a brand new below ground pool we just had put in right in the middle of our backyard.
“At first, I wanted to put dogwoods along the berm, but have since then noticed they don't stay the size we need to get the privacy we want. Then I found these Thuja Green Giants we could put along two sides of our yard; the berm to hide the road, and the neighbor without a fence. With
that formal of a backyard, there is no way I can feel out of place playing badminton in my white pole shirt and pants on a sunny day drinking lemonade, right?
“But now I have another problem, and no it's not that my wife hates playing badminton. She doesn't like the thought of the Thuja Green Giants for some reason. She's thinking tall grasses and short deciduous trees of some sort, with small shrubs and flowers beneath them across the entire berm. So now what? Back to square one, huh?
“Could you give us some pointers and perhaps guide us in the right direction on how we should handle our privacy issue? We've been reading up on what things we could do for quite a while, but have not yet come to a solution. Thanks for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.” – Nathan
ANSWER: Well, at the risk of sounding as if I’m “sitting on the fence,” you both could be correct. Yours an easy solution – planting the Green Giants – but her solution has more variety and texture. Grasses are good; maybe some of the flowering shrubs such as Knockout roses. Another thought would be to mix in some Bamboo. Use these mostly as background plants and then put in a host of perennials for investment-type landscaping. The perennials come back larger and stronger year after year while providing different seasons of blooms. If you wish to put in some ornamental smaller trees you may want to look at the Velma's Delight dwarf crape myrtle. I hope this helps you agree on a solution!
QUESTION: “I have some burning bushes in the front of my home. They no longer have any leaves on the bottom of the bush. If I trim them will they come back again, or will I harm them? I thought maybe you could help me out.” – Sandra Shinkey
ANSWER: You don’t mention the age of your shrubs, but burning bush plants become leggy as they age. Trimming doesn’t generally help this situation. They may have fulfilled their purpose in the landscape and may need to be replaced.
If age isn’t it, a few other common problems of this plant variety are disease, pests and nutritional deficiencies.
Due to the heat last spring/summer, spider mites were a huge pest causing many customers with burning bushes in their landscapes to become concerned. Once they leaf out, you can hold a white sheet of paper under some of the leaves and tap the branch lightly. If spider mites are the cause, they will fall onto the paper. Then, visit your local hardware store for their recommendation on a pesticide to treat the plants.
Burning bush prefer full sun, but will grow in other situations. The more sun they receive, the deeper red the leaves in late summer/early fall.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “We have a 1/4 acre lot our house sets on, two neighbors to the side, a busy road directly behind us with only a berm to separate us, and a brand new below ground pool we just had put in right in the middle of our backyard.
“At first, I wanted to put dogwoods along the berm, but have since then noticed they don't stay the size we need to get the privacy we want. Then I found these Thuja Green Giants we could put along two sides of our yard; the berm to hide the road, and the neighbor without a fence. With
that formal of a backyard, there is no way I can feel out of place playing badminton in my white pole shirt and pants on a sunny day drinking lemonade, right?
“But now I have another problem, and no it's not that my wife hates playing badminton. She doesn't like the thought of the Thuja Green Giants for some reason. She's thinking tall grasses and short deciduous trees of some sort, with small shrubs and flowers beneath them across the entire berm. So now what? Back to square one, huh?
“Could you give us some pointers and perhaps guide us in the right direction on how we should handle our privacy issue? We've been reading up on what things we could do for quite a while, but have not yet come to a solution. Thanks for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.” – Nathan
ANSWER: Well, at the risk of sounding as if I’m “sitting on the fence,” you both could be correct. Yours an easy solution – planting the Green Giants – but her solution has more variety and texture. Grasses are good; maybe some of the flowering shrubs such as Knockout roses. Another thought would be to mix in some Bamboo. Use these mostly as background plants and then put in a host of perennials for investment-type landscaping. The perennials come back larger and stronger year after year while providing different seasons of blooms. If you wish to put in some ornamental smaller trees you may want to look at the Velma's Delight dwarf crape myrtle. I hope this helps you agree on a solution!
QUESTION: “I have some burning bushes in the front of my home. They no longer have any leaves on the bottom of the bush. If I trim them will they come back again, or will I harm them? I thought maybe you could help me out.” – Sandra Shinkey
ANSWER: You don’t mention the age of your shrubs, but burning bush plants become leggy as they age. Trimming doesn’t generally help this situation. They may have fulfilled their purpose in the landscape and may need to be replaced.
If age isn’t it, a few other common problems of this plant variety are disease, pests and nutritional deficiencies.
Due to the heat last spring/summer, spider mites were a huge pest causing many customers with burning bushes in their landscapes to become concerned. Once they leaf out, you can hold a white sheet of paper under some of the leaves and tap the branch lightly. If spider mites are the cause, they will fall onto the paper. Then, visit your local hardware store for their recommendation on a pesticide to treat the plants.
Burning bush prefer full sun, but will grow in other situations. The more sun they receive, the deeper red the leaves in late summer/early fall.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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