The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/26/06 - 03/04/06
(737 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Twisted and spiky or soft and sweet: more unusual spring planting ideas
"Tell me more!"
That's the reaction I've been getting in e-mail messages from readers of
recent columns about plant suggestions that are... well, off the beaten
path. So here are a few more "less-than-common" plants that you might want
to explore, if you're looking to add unique features to your landscape.
Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana Tortuosa)
A fascinating tree with an unusual and descriptive name. I have long
admired this tree but I'm surprised that not a lot of people know about it,
so I'm pleased to spread the word. The twisted, contorted branches are
nonetheless elegant, as with all willows, and it is a tree that has a
distinctive look for each season.
As spring turns to summer, I enjoy the sight of the bright green,
narrow-leaved foliage. In the fall, the foliage slowly turns yellow, and
throughout the winter I frequently take time to look at the contorted,
claw-like limbs and twigs. In fact, another name for the Corkscrew Willow
is Dragon's Claw and I can certainly understand why.
It's a strong, hardy tree that's quite easy to grow and tolerates almost any
soil, including wet soil with poor drainage. For a really dramatic effect,
you can clump two or three together and watch the claw-like limbs
intertwine. Trim back to a single stem if you want to line a driveway or a
property boundary. Corkscrew Willows are modest in height - between 20 and
30 ft at maturity with a spread of around 15 ft.
Giant Pussy Willow (Salix chaenomeloides)
Unlike the Corkscrew, this one is, of course, a shrub. The "giant" version
is quite spectacular (if you're only familiar with its smaller cousins)
growing to about 10 ft high. It produces silver-gray foliage in the summer
and glowing red bark in the winter that sprouts red buds in the early spring
that turn into rabbit's foot-size furry catkins.
All of which gives me an excuse to pass along the folk-tale origin of the
pussy willow...
According to a Polish legend, a mother cat was crying by a river in which
her little kittens were drowning. Moved by the cat's plight, the willows
that lined the river bank bent over and trailed their long branches in the
water. The kittens clung to the branches and were lifted to safety. And
now, each spring, the branches of the Pussy Willow sprout fur-like buds
where the kittens had clung and been rescued. Aaaaaaah..!
If you missed any of the previous columns with unusual planting suggestions,
you can find them all at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on
"The Plant Man" where you can scroll through the archives. Alternatively,
send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with a few details about your
landscape and the results you want to achieve and I'll give you some of my
personal recommendations.
Back to my "off the wall" plant ideas...
Flying Dragon (Poncirus trifoliata)
Thinking of the Dragon's Claw reminded me of this highly unusual plant,
Flying Dragon. This is another plant developed by the ingenious Don Shadow.
In fact I'm looking at one right now. Cheryl and I like this so much that
we potted one for the office! If you want to see a photo of it, drop me an
e-mail and I'll send you a picture.
Flying Dragon has dense, spiky limbs that can be very useful if you're
looking to plant a hedge that will deter people or animals from cutting
through and crossing your lawn! In fact, I've seen it used for just that
purpose on college campuses and public places such as zoos and parks.
In spring, Flying Dragon produces small white blooms that are very
attractive. It also produces a yellow fruit that is technically edible but,
frankly, far too sour for my taste! However, I'm happy to enjoy the
beautiful sight, both of the potted version and the hedge which will grow to
about 6 ft. It has extreme cold hardiness - to about 0 degrees Fahrenheit -
and has good blight resistance.
So... twisted, soft or spiky. The choice is yours. Don't settle for ho-hum
when you can let your landscape make a unique statement.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and
landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional
information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go
to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Friday, February 17, 2006
New and useful plants from unique nurseryman, Don Shadow
There are some plants that just demand the description “unique.” They are remarkable, unlike anything you’ve seen before; as fascinating as they are unusual.
As rare as that description is for plants, it is even more uncommon to find a truly unique person. Fourth-generation nurseryman Don Shadow would strike most people as unique, but he doesn’t feel that description fits him or the many plant varietals that he has developed over the years.
Don describes these varietals not as unique but as “new and useful.” Several of Don’s plants are featured in the March 2006 edition of “Garden Design” magazine.
He has operated his own nursery in Winchester, Tennessee, since 1973, and it is there that many of these “new and useful” plants have first seen the light of day. In a moment I’ll describe a couple of my personal favorites from the Don Shadow repertoire that were spotlighted in “Garden Design,” but first more about this fascinating man...
Don’s interest and expertise extends beyond plants to the animal kingdom. There are more than 600 animals in 60 different species living and breeding under Don’s watchful eye.
He has 14 different species of deer and 46 camels, as well as antelope, zebras, tapirs, lemurs and many more.
Currently, Don is raising Chinese Red Panda babies, the first ever to be successfully bred by a private individual in the United States. Don works closely with zoos that regularly send him animals for breeding, based on his remarkable success record.
But whether it’s growing tender bamboo for his pandas or developing new varietals of fruit trees, Don’s first love remains in the realm of plants.
He dislikes calling his plants "unique" or "rare" as he believes words like that can be misleading and even create anxiety among amateur gardeners who might think that they wouldn’t have the necessary skill to grow such plants successfully.
"I focus on varietals that I describe as new and useful," Don told me recently. "These could be plants that are ideally suited to a particular location due to their color, form or habit."
Don travels extensively and has noticed that Americans are beginning to move towards planting styles already popular in countries such as Japan and England. "Smaller spaces need trees and shrubs that match the scale of those spaces," he points out. "Large, majestic trees just don’t work in the smaller landscapes we’re seeing now around newly-constructed homes."
Here are two of Don Shadow’s plants that were featured in “Garden Design” magazine:
Red Bud “Little Woody” The Little Woody is a very compact small grower with remarkably dark, gnarled and almost rubbery rugose green leaves. It can grow in full sun, partial sun or shade and will top out between 6 and 10 feet at maturity.
Red Bud “Ace of Hearts” Both the Ace of Hearts and the Little Woody bear the Latin name Cercis canadensis, and the Ace is reputed to be the first ever compact canadensis varietal. The name comes from the plant’s delightful heart-shaped leaves that are only half the size of “regular” Red Bud leaves, giving it a delightfully delicate appearance.
If you’re looking for something with spectacular color, try another Don Shadow Signature plant, the Red Bud Tennessee Pink. The name aptly describes the hot pink blooms that make a dramatic show in early spring. The pink looks particularly brilliant alongside another Shadow Red Bud, the Chinensis Alba. I would recommend all of these to gardeners who are “acreage-challenged” but still want unusual and delightful plants.
Be warned, they’re hard to find but well worth it and will have your neighbors asking, “Where did you find THAT?” Best bet: Go to www.google.com and type in Don Shadow Red Bud, or simply drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org.
I call them unique, even if Don insists they’re “new and useful.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
As rare as that description is for plants, it is even more uncommon to find a truly unique person. Fourth-generation nurseryman Don Shadow would strike most people as unique, but he doesn’t feel that description fits him or the many plant varietals that he has developed over the years.
Don describes these varietals not as unique but as “new and useful.” Several of Don’s plants are featured in the March 2006 edition of “Garden Design” magazine.
He has operated his own nursery in Winchester, Tennessee, since 1973, and it is there that many of these “new and useful” plants have first seen the light of day. In a moment I’ll describe a couple of my personal favorites from the Don Shadow repertoire that were spotlighted in “Garden Design,” but first more about this fascinating man...
Don’s interest and expertise extends beyond plants to the animal kingdom. There are more than 600 animals in 60 different species living and breeding under Don’s watchful eye.
He has 14 different species of deer and 46 camels, as well as antelope, zebras, tapirs, lemurs and many more.
Currently, Don is raising Chinese Red Panda babies, the first ever to be successfully bred by a private individual in the United States. Don works closely with zoos that regularly send him animals for breeding, based on his remarkable success record.
But whether it’s growing tender bamboo for his pandas or developing new varietals of fruit trees, Don’s first love remains in the realm of plants.
He dislikes calling his plants "unique" or "rare" as he believes words like that can be misleading and even create anxiety among amateur gardeners who might think that they wouldn’t have the necessary skill to grow such plants successfully.
"I focus on varietals that I describe as new and useful," Don told me recently. "These could be plants that are ideally suited to a particular location due to their color, form or habit."
Don travels extensively and has noticed that Americans are beginning to move towards planting styles already popular in countries such as Japan and England. "Smaller spaces need trees and shrubs that match the scale of those spaces," he points out. "Large, majestic trees just don’t work in the smaller landscapes we’re seeing now around newly-constructed homes."
Here are two of Don Shadow’s plants that were featured in “Garden Design” magazine:
Red Bud “Little Woody” The Little Woody is a very compact small grower with remarkably dark, gnarled and almost rubbery rugose green leaves. It can grow in full sun, partial sun or shade and will top out between 6 and 10 feet at maturity.
Red Bud “Ace of Hearts” Both the Ace of Hearts and the Little Woody bear the Latin name Cercis canadensis, and the Ace is reputed to be the first ever compact canadensis varietal. The name comes from the plant’s delightful heart-shaped leaves that are only half the size of “regular” Red Bud leaves, giving it a delightfully delicate appearance.
If you’re looking for something with spectacular color, try another Don Shadow Signature plant, the Red Bud Tennessee Pink. The name aptly describes the hot pink blooms that make a dramatic show in early spring. The pink looks particularly brilliant alongside another Shadow Red Bud, the Chinensis Alba. I would recommend all of these to gardeners who are “acreage-challenged” but still want unusual and delightful plants.
Be warned, they’re hard to find but well worth it and will have your neighbors asking, “Where did you find THAT?” Best bet: Go to www.google.com and type in Don Shadow Red Bud, or simply drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org.
I call them unique, even if Don insists they’re “new and useful.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/12/06 - 02/18/06
(643 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
What’s in a name? Some plants have acquired names that boast fascinating back-stories, while others have monikers that are so descriptive, they’re irresistible! Here are two of my favorite examples.
Degroots Spire arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
It’s fascinating to discover how plants came to be given certain names. Take arborvitae as an example. Translated from the Latin, it means “tree of life.” One might assume there is a spiritual or religious reason for a plant to be blessed with that name. However, the origin is far more down to earth.
According to legend or history (take your pick) the plant was named by the 16th century French explorer Jacques Cartier who learned from Native Americans that its foliage could be used to treat scurvy because of the high content of what we now call Vitamin C.
Scurvy particularly affected sailors who spent months at sea without access to fruits and vegetables. You might recall that the British navy learned to carry limes on long sea voyages for the same purpose, allegedly giving rise to the nickname “Limeys.”
Cartier noted that the Native Americans used the leaves in various medicines and boiled the foliage to make a medicinal tea. When he realized the restorative powers of the plant, it seemed only natural for him to dub it “the tree of life.”
Arborvitae is a cedar that comes in many varieties. One of my favorites is Degroot’s Spire. It is the ideal tree if you have a small or narrow area that needs some enhancement but cannot accommodate a wide-spreading tree. Degroot’s Spire will climb to a height of about 20 feet but has a spread of only 3 feet, resembling an elegant church spire or steeple pointing skywards.
Degroot’s Spire tolerates shearing to create a stately tailored column. You might have seen it planted in narrow spaces between tall buildings such as office complexes. For the homeowner, an ideal location would be between the house and garage or other outbuildings. It can also be very effective as a screen hedge.
The foliage is a dense, medium-green that takes on a purplish tinge in the winter. It can grow in direct sun or partial shade and has moderate water requirements. If you can’t locate Degroot’s Spire arborvitae locally, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll give you some shopping information.
Robust Male Fern (Dryopteris filx-mas undulata “Robusta”)
In this case, it’s not the Latin name that I find fascinating – it’s almost too long to remember, anyway – it’s the common name: Robust Male Fern! Some plants have names that sound downright sissy, but not this one. It sounds like it might get up and kick your butt if you’re not careful!
If the name brings to mind visions of John Wayne-style heroes, you’re not far off. This fern is a tough guy that is fairly self-sufficient, grows fast and stands tall: around 4 feet at maturity.
I like the way this fern really enhances the more colorful characters in a large herbaceous border. It can also come to your rescue (as tough-guy heroes should) if you need to prevent erosion on steep hillsides or riverbanks. It works well as a low-maintenance and attractive groundcover in a woodland setting when you want a natural, rugged look.
Robust Male Ferns thrive in cool, moist, shaded locations, the long, leathery fronds unfurling in shades of yellow-green, maturing to a deep emerald.
If you like to mix and match, consider adding similar plants such as Japanese Holly Fern or Shield Fern. As always, let me know if you need help finding these plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 02/12/06 - 02/18/06
(643 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
What’s in a name? Some plants have acquired names that boast fascinating back-stories, while others have monikers that are so descriptive, they’re irresistible! Here are two of my favorite examples.
Degroots Spire arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
It’s fascinating to discover how plants came to be given certain names. Take arborvitae as an example. Translated from the Latin, it means “tree of life.” One might assume there is a spiritual or religious reason for a plant to be blessed with that name. However, the origin is far more down to earth.
According to legend or history (take your pick) the plant was named by the 16th century French explorer Jacques Cartier who learned from Native Americans that its foliage could be used to treat scurvy because of the high content of what we now call Vitamin C.
Scurvy particularly affected sailors who spent months at sea without access to fruits and vegetables. You might recall that the British navy learned to carry limes on long sea voyages for the same purpose, allegedly giving rise to the nickname “Limeys.”
Cartier noted that the Native Americans used the leaves in various medicines and boiled the foliage to make a medicinal tea. When he realized the restorative powers of the plant, it seemed only natural for him to dub it “the tree of life.”
Arborvitae is a cedar that comes in many varieties. One of my favorites is Degroot’s Spire. It is the ideal tree if you have a small or narrow area that needs some enhancement but cannot accommodate a wide-spreading tree. Degroot’s Spire will climb to a height of about 20 feet but has a spread of only 3 feet, resembling an elegant church spire or steeple pointing skywards.
Degroot’s Spire tolerates shearing to create a stately tailored column. You might have seen it planted in narrow spaces between tall buildings such as office complexes. For the homeowner, an ideal location would be between the house and garage or other outbuildings. It can also be very effective as a screen hedge.
The foliage is a dense, medium-green that takes on a purplish tinge in the winter. It can grow in direct sun or partial shade and has moderate water requirements. If you can’t locate Degroot’s Spire arborvitae locally, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll give you some shopping information.
Robust Male Fern (Dryopteris filx-mas undulata “Robusta”)
In this case, it’s not the Latin name that I find fascinating – it’s almost too long to remember, anyway – it’s the common name: Robust Male Fern! Some plants have names that sound downright sissy, but not this one. It sounds like it might get up and kick your butt if you’re not careful!
If the name brings to mind visions of John Wayne-style heroes, you’re not far off. This fern is a tough guy that is fairly self-sufficient, grows fast and stands tall: around 4 feet at maturity.
I like the way this fern really enhances the more colorful characters in a large herbaceous border. It can also come to your rescue (as tough-guy heroes should) if you need to prevent erosion on steep hillsides or riverbanks. It works well as a low-maintenance and attractive groundcover in a woodland setting when you want a natural, rugged look.
Robust Male Ferns thrive in cool, moist, shaded locations, the long, leathery fronds unfurling in shades of yellow-green, maturing to a deep emerald.
If you like to mix and match, consider adding similar plants such as Japanese Holly Fern or Shield Fern. As always, let me know if you need help finding these plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/05/06 - 02/11/06
(765 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
Watering a tree sounds like a no-brainer, doesn’t it? But trees, particularly new, young trees, can suffer irreparable damage when they are subjected to incorrect or insufficient watering. Here is a question from a reader about that very subject, as well as some ideas about removing the pesky stumps of a holly bush!
QUESTION: “I had planted two new trees in April, a redbud and an apple serviceberry. Neither came with any instructions about watering. The redbud has a circumference of 5 inches and the serviceberry 5 1/2 inches. Please give me an idea of how much and often to water them.
“Also, are new trees not to be fertilized for a couple years? Should I be doing root stimulator applications on them both and for how long? While on trees topic when is the best time to have Bradford trees pruned?” – a reader
ANSWER: The best rule of thumb for new trees is to make sure the root ball is moist until the tree or shrub grows through the first season. To do this you can purchase a product from a company called Jobe. They manufacture a tree spike that attaches to a regular garden hose. Directions come with the spike.
If you cannot find this product, take a 1 to 2 inch PVC pipe and hammer into the root ball but at the farthest point from the trunk of the tree. Be careful not to hammer into any large root of the new tree. Make sure the root ball is damp at least once a week during the first season.
A lot of folks think by watering the top of the ground that the roots of the tree are getting watered and that is simply not the case. To prove it to yourself, water the ground for a few minutes then dig down to see how far the water has traveled. You will be amazed at how short a distance the water has penetrated.
You can treat your new trees with a fertilizer that stimulates root growth. Ask for it at your local garden center.
The best time to trim trees is when they are dormant: late fall when they drop their leaves or early spring before the leaves appear.
QUESTION: “We recently removed some (old) holly bushes from the front of our house. My husband chain sawed them down. Well, now I have about 3" of stump remaining from the ground and I keep getting new holly growth all over. I have to keep clipping to control. We put a poison into the stumps (after drilling holes) but they are still there. I want to till up the whole area in front of house and replant some shrubs or flowers. How can I make sure I kill the root, stump and any other new growth?”– Ginnie Mercer
ANSWER: I know there are several products out there that you can purchase from your local garden store. However, in order for you to do this quickly you may have to dig them out. Since they are a three inch caliper you will have to back away from the stump about two feet with a spade and start digging. You use a spade to cut the roots all the way around the trunk then dig down and lift up. This is the fastest way to accomplish your task. It will take quite a while for poisons to kill and rot the stump enough to till the ground.
After that Q and A appeared in a recent edition of my weekly e-mailed newsletter, I received the following comment from a reader:
COMMENT: “About those stumps from the hollies, I have a suggestion that might help until it's warm enough to dig those stumps out... She can pour a big bag of high nitrogen fertilizer over the stumps and roots area, cover that with wet newspaper and then top it with plastic to keep it
moist. As you know, this will help rot and "soften" the stumps and roots for easier digging in spring.” – Teri
ANSWER: It would seem on the surface a great solution. I will post your comment on my Web site and share it with our readers. Do you have comments or suggestions to share with other readers of this column? Send your ideas to me via e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 02/05/06 - 02/11/06
(765 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
Watering a tree sounds like a no-brainer, doesn’t it? But trees, particularly new, young trees, can suffer irreparable damage when they are subjected to incorrect or insufficient watering. Here is a question from a reader about that very subject, as well as some ideas about removing the pesky stumps of a holly bush!
QUESTION: “I had planted two new trees in April, a redbud and an apple serviceberry. Neither came with any instructions about watering. The redbud has a circumference of 5 inches and the serviceberry 5 1/2 inches. Please give me an idea of how much and often to water them.
“Also, are new trees not to be fertilized for a couple years? Should I be doing root stimulator applications on them both and for how long? While on trees topic when is the best time to have Bradford trees pruned?” – a reader
ANSWER: The best rule of thumb for new trees is to make sure the root ball is moist until the tree or shrub grows through the first season. To do this you can purchase a product from a company called Jobe. They manufacture a tree spike that attaches to a regular garden hose. Directions come with the spike.
If you cannot find this product, take a 1 to 2 inch PVC pipe and hammer into the root ball but at the farthest point from the trunk of the tree. Be careful not to hammer into any large root of the new tree. Make sure the root ball is damp at least once a week during the first season.
A lot of folks think by watering the top of the ground that the roots of the tree are getting watered and that is simply not the case. To prove it to yourself, water the ground for a few minutes then dig down to see how far the water has traveled. You will be amazed at how short a distance the water has penetrated.
You can treat your new trees with a fertilizer that stimulates root growth. Ask for it at your local garden center.
The best time to trim trees is when they are dormant: late fall when they drop their leaves or early spring before the leaves appear.
QUESTION: “We recently removed some (old) holly bushes from the front of our house. My husband chain sawed them down. Well, now I have about 3" of stump remaining from the ground and I keep getting new holly growth all over. I have to keep clipping to control. We put a poison into the stumps (after drilling holes) but they are still there. I want to till up the whole area in front of house and replant some shrubs or flowers. How can I make sure I kill the root, stump and any other new growth?”– Ginnie Mercer
ANSWER: I know there are several products out there that you can purchase from your local garden store. However, in order for you to do this quickly you may have to dig them out. Since they are a three inch caliper you will have to back away from the stump about two feet with a spade and start digging. You use a spade to cut the roots all the way around the trunk then dig down and lift up. This is the fastest way to accomplish your task. It will take quite a while for poisons to kill and rot the stump enough to till the ground.
After that Q and A appeared in a recent edition of my weekly e-mailed newsletter, I received the following comment from a reader:
COMMENT: “About those stumps from the hollies, I have a suggestion that might help until it's warm enough to dig those stumps out... She can pour a big bag of high nitrogen fertilizer over the stumps and roots area, cover that with wet newspaper and then top it with plastic to keep it
moist. As you know, this will help rot and "soften" the stumps and roots for easier digging in spring.” – Teri
ANSWER: It would seem on the surface a great solution. I will post your comment on my Web site and share it with our readers. Do you have comments or suggestions to share with other readers of this column? Send your ideas to me via e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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