With the Holidays and the Winter Solstice behind us and the days slowly but surely growing longer as we head towards spring, we can start to enjoy mental images of gardens and landscapes alive with colors and aromas where now we see only bleak soil and dry branches!
Colors and aromas satisfy two of our senses – sight and smell. But why stop there when you can add taste to the sensual mix? Include small fruiting plants in your spring planting plans and you could soon, literally, be enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Here are a couple of suggestions that I hope will make your mouth water!
Blackberry Triple Crown Thornless
We recently discovered this relatively new blackberry and we quickly became enthusiasts. Yes, it really is thornless and that’s a big benefit to those of us whose hands and forearms seem to be magnets for little scratches when we work around our plants.
However, for us the “wow factor” came from the size of the fruit that this variety can produce, based on results achieved in agricultural testing. Triple Crown was tested extensively by agricultural research scientists before finally being offered to nurseries starting in 1996. Oregon State University trials found 8-year-old plants yielding 30 pounds or more of berries per plant.
The fruit is also suitable for juices, pies, syrups and preserves, according to puree trials by the Oregon testers. The name, by the way, doesn’t refer to horse racing. Rather it gets its name from its three crowning attributes: flavor, productivity and vigor.
Raspberry Anne Fall Gold
Anne Gold is a yellow-gold variety noted for its sweet flavor and great holding ability on the vine. It is described by horticulturists as ever-bearing: you’ll get a good crop around June and an even better crop in the fall. A nice benefit: Anne Fall stays firm and won’t turn to mush in your hands if you delay picking it for a day or two. Tests show that it resists powdery mildew, too. For correct pollination, plant Anne Gold close to some regular red raspberries.
Raspberries tolerates most soil types but prefers deep, well-drained, fertile soil. It is quite versatile and hardy in cold climates where other cane fruits tend to fail.
Blueberries
If you enjoy blueberries in fruit salads, muffins and pancakes, why not grow your own? To ensure good pollination, you need to plant at least two varieties, such as…
Sweetheart, a new variety of blueberry, suitable for USDA zones 4 to 8. This one ripens early with firm, nicely colored fruit that has a sweet taste. The bush itself can make an attractive and decorative hedge with its pink-tinged white spring flowers and vibrant yellow-gold fall foliage, in addition to the blue early to mid-summer fruit.
Blueray, a mid-season blueberry that is upright, productive and vigorous. We’ve found you can get about 20 pounds of fruit from a single plant over the course of a season, so you’d better have a really good muffin recipe. Blueray is considered a good pollinator for other highbush varieties.
Some of the fruiting plants I’ve described are quite new and might be tricky to track down. If you need some online shopping help, feel free to send me an e-mail.
Start planning now for many summers of delicious, home-grown fruit!
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Five resolutions to make your garden bloom in 2007
The New Year is upon us! With all that pre-Holiday hustle and bustle finally behind us and spring not yet on the horizon, it's a good time for all of us gardeners and landscapers to draw up our annual list of New Year's Resolutions.
No, not the ones about low-carb diets and going to the gym and learning another language. All highly admirable. But I'm referring to some specific garden-goals you can set yourself.
I'm guessing there is at least one project you've been promising you'll take care of when you get around to it.. So here is where we'll begin...
Resolution # 1: A Round Tuit You said you'd do it when you got around to it, so I am hereby giving you a Round Tuit. Now you have no more excuses! Whatever it was... re-staining that fence, pulling out those overgrown brambles, replacing the rickety trellis that's barely holding your Purple Wintercreeper vine... Resolve to really DO IT this year! Set yourself a "complete by" date and stick to it.
Resolution # 2: Plant a tree The world can always benefit from another tree. Take a look out of your window and visualize a new tree gracing your landscape. What's your choice? A leafy shade tree such as a Red Maple, a Tulip Poplar or a Chinese Chestnut are good suggestions. Or maybe you prefer an evergreen such as the fast-growing Cedar Green Giant or the Colorado Blue Spruce. How about a nut tree? Think about the elegant Black Walnut or the Chinese Chestnut that will produce delicious nuts for future Holiday recipes!
Resolution # 3: Get involved! Lend your green thumb (with you still attached of course) to a landscape project somewhere in your area. There are groups of concerned citizens in urban, suburban and rural locations throughout America who "adopt" a blighted area and give it a facelift. Often, it involves little more than clearing away overgrown weeds and dumped garbage. Sometimes the plan calls for planting shrubs and trees to create a pleasant "green space." If you don't know of such a group, a good place to start might be at your local newspaper. Editors usually have their fingers on the pulse of the community and might be able to point you in the right direction.
Resolution # 4: Involve the kids Can you remember who it was who first aroused your interest in plants and how things grow? Now's your chance to "pass it on" to your own children or grandchildren. Remember, it has to be fun and not a chore, so kids need to be doing more than simply weeding or raking leaves! Here's an idea: set aside an area in your landscape and give it to your child for his or her very own garden. With your guidance and mentoring, they can choose what to plant and learn how to care for their own flowers, shrubs and trees as they grow. I guarantee that many years from now, they'll return to "their" garden and say, "I grew that!"
Resolution # 5: Contact The Plant Man! That's right: involve me in your projects. Send me an e-mail and tell me about your successes, pass on hints and tips for fellow readers or ask my advice about a problem your having with your landscape. I can usually respond personally within a day or two, and many of the comments and questions I receive are also published in this column.
No doubt you can add a few resolutions of your own. But the trick is to decide on just one or two and simply resolve to follow through and actually achieve them by this time next year. And now I guess I'd better get started on my own list of resolutions...!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
No, not the ones about low-carb diets and going to the gym and learning another language. All highly admirable. But I'm referring to some specific garden-goals you can set yourself.
I'm guessing there is at least one project you've been promising you'll take care of when you get around to it.. So here is where we'll begin...
Resolution # 1: A Round Tuit You said you'd do it when you got around to it, so I am hereby giving you a Round Tuit. Now you have no more excuses! Whatever it was... re-staining that fence, pulling out those overgrown brambles, replacing the rickety trellis that's barely holding your Purple Wintercreeper vine... Resolve to really DO IT this year! Set yourself a "complete by" date and stick to it.
Resolution # 2: Plant a tree The world can always benefit from another tree. Take a look out of your window and visualize a new tree gracing your landscape. What's your choice? A leafy shade tree such as a Red Maple, a Tulip Poplar or a Chinese Chestnut are good suggestions. Or maybe you prefer an evergreen such as the fast-growing Cedar Green Giant or the Colorado Blue Spruce. How about a nut tree? Think about the elegant Black Walnut or the Chinese Chestnut that will produce delicious nuts for future Holiday recipes!
Resolution # 3: Get involved! Lend your green thumb (with you still attached of course) to a landscape project somewhere in your area. There are groups of concerned citizens in urban, suburban and rural locations throughout America who "adopt" a blighted area and give it a facelift. Often, it involves little more than clearing away overgrown weeds and dumped garbage. Sometimes the plan calls for planting shrubs and trees to create a pleasant "green space." If you don't know of such a group, a good place to start might be at your local newspaper. Editors usually have their fingers on the pulse of the community and might be able to point you in the right direction.
Resolution # 4: Involve the kids Can you remember who it was who first aroused your interest in plants and how things grow? Now's your chance to "pass it on" to your own children or grandchildren. Remember, it has to be fun and not a chore, so kids need to be doing more than simply weeding or raking leaves! Here's an idea: set aside an area in your landscape and give it to your child for his or her very own garden. With your guidance and mentoring, they can choose what to plant and learn how to care for their own flowers, shrubs and trees as they grow. I guarantee that many years from now, they'll return to "their" garden and say, "I grew that!"
Resolution # 5: Contact The Plant Man! That's right: involve me in your projects. Send me an e-mail and tell me about your successes, pass on hints and tips for fellow readers or ask my advice about a problem your having with your landscape. I can usually respond personally within a day or two, and many of the comments and questions I receive are also published in this column.
No doubt you can add a few resolutions of your own. But the trick is to decide on just one or two and simply resolve to follow through and actually achieve them by this time next year. And now I guess I'd better get started on my own list of resolutions...!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Create seasonal cheer with living window boxes
Time to answer more questions from the e-mail bag… and a tip from a reader who kept deer from munching on his trees.
QUESTION: “I have east facing window boxes that are an eye-sore during the winter. Would English Ivy be suitable for planting now? I live in zone 8 or 9. Everyone here plants pansies during the winter (an abomination to this former New Englander) but I just can't. I'd be very happy with green drapes. Please let me know if this is feasible. I'd really like to have something in the boxes. Thanks so much.” – Nancy Young
ANSWER: You can create some really interesting window boxes this time of year. The holidays are almost upon us, so you can decorate them with pine, cedar and boxwood branches and magnolia leaves adding in some poinsettias, holly, nandina and ribbon for splashes of color just as you would create arrangements inside for the holidays.
For true living window boxes, you can plant young junipers, arborvitae, pines, boxwood, holly, small mums, ornamental cabbage, rosemary, creeping thyme, pachysandra, small cool season ornamental grasses, ferns, heucheras plum pudding, and miniature roses (as well as ivy) at this time.
You should be able to get some ideas from your grocery store (some of the larger chains that have a plant dept). Usually this time of year you can find rosemary trees and other fun versions of plants to decorate your boxes.
For pictures and ideas of window boxes and containers, drop an e-mail to Cheryl at cheryl@landsteward.org and put "Boxes" in the subject line.
QUESTION: “I loved your article on planting Black Walnut seeds. My question to you is this: I have an old bag of Hickory seeds, I don't know how old, but a few years. My friend gave them to me as he knows of my fondness for Hickory trees, and I wanted to plant the seeds around my property. He gave them to me when I was discussing your article the Walnut seeds. He had tons stored in his garage. Can I still plant them, and will they grow? Or should I just throw them to the squirrels?
“Also, a few years ago, I planted some Yoshino and Kwanzan trees. I noticed that the ones I wrapped with two inch masking tape for the last two winters, from the ground up, kept the Deer away from the bark! (I guess they can't smell the bark? That's all I could get, and it was cheap!) By spring the masking tape just fell off with ease. It flaked off like two inch dandruff pieces from the cold weather, I guess. It was an easy clean up, but best of all, it kept the pesky deer and rabbits off of my trees.” -- Phil Downey
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that the hickory nuts will probably not germinate, unless they have been kept at a good moisture content. However, if you do plant them cover them with soil about 1 ½ times the diameter of the seed. You will know soon enough in spring if they have germinated successfully! Thanks for the masking tape idea. I’ll pass it on to our readers.
QUESTION: “I have a 5 year old tree peony from China that has never bloomed. I fed it but nothing happened. It was supposed to have big blue flowers. Nevertheless, it just grows. So what I did 3 weeks ago, I chopped it down to 3 inches above the ground. Can you please tell me, will it grow back up or did I kill it?” – L. Salgado
ANSWER: Tree peonies once cut down, don’t generally come back. They are peonies that are grafted onto other root stock. They are usually easy to grow, but there is also a list of things that can cause problems, including late freezes, planting too deep, inadequate sunlight, too much nitrogen, over watering or over fertilizing.
Bone meal and compost is the food of choice for these plants. Tree and regular peonies often have problems blooming in warmer areas (especially zones 8 and 9) where the weather doesn’t provide enough chill time for them to regenerate.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I have east facing window boxes that are an eye-sore during the winter. Would English Ivy be suitable for planting now? I live in zone 8 or 9. Everyone here plants pansies during the winter (an abomination to this former New Englander) but I just can't. I'd be very happy with green drapes. Please let me know if this is feasible. I'd really like to have something in the boxes. Thanks so much.” – Nancy Young
ANSWER: You can create some really interesting window boxes this time of year. The holidays are almost upon us, so you can decorate them with pine, cedar and boxwood branches and magnolia leaves adding in some poinsettias, holly, nandina and ribbon for splashes of color just as you would create arrangements inside for the holidays.
For true living window boxes, you can plant young junipers, arborvitae, pines, boxwood, holly, small mums, ornamental cabbage, rosemary, creeping thyme, pachysandra, small cool season ornamental grasses, ferns, heucheras plum pudding, and miniature roses (as well as ivy) at this time.
You should be able to get some ideas from your grocery store (some of the larger chains that have a plant dept). Usually this time of year you can find rosemary trees and other fun versions of plants to decorate your boxes.
For pictures and ideas of window boxes and containers, drop an e-mail to Cheryl at cheryl@landsteward.org and put "Boxes" in the subject line.
QUESTION: “I loved your article on planting Black Walnut seeds. My question to you is this: I have an old bag of Hickory seeds, I don't know how old, but a few years. My friend gave them to me as he knows of my fondness for Hickory trees, and I wanted to plant the seeds around my property. He gave them to me when I was discussing your article the Walnut seeds. He had tons stored in his garage. Can I still plant them, and will they grow? Or should I just throw them to the squirrels?
“Also, a few years ago, I planted some Yoshino and Kwanzan trees. I noticed that the ones I wrapped with two inch masking tape for the last two winters, from the ground up, kept the Deer away from the bark! (I guess they can't smell the bark? That's all I could get, and it was cheap!) By spring the masking tape just fell off with ease. It flaked off like two inch dandruff pieces from the cold weather, I guess. It was an easy clean up, but best of all, it kept the pesky deer and rabbits off of my trees.” -- Phil Downey
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that the hickory nuts will probably not germinate, unless they have been kept at a good moisture content. However, if you do plant them cover them with soil about 1 ½ times the diameter of the seed. You will know soon enough in spring if they have germinated successfully! Thanks for the masking tape idea. I’ll pass it on to our readers.
QUESTION: “I have a 5 year old tree peony from China that has never bloomed. I fed it but nothing happened. It was supposed to have big blue flowers. Nevertheless, it just grows. So what I did 3 weeks ago, I chopped it down to 3 inches above the ground. Can you please tell me, will it grow back up or did I kill it?” – L. Salgado
ANSWER: Tree peonies once cut down, don’t generally come back. They are peonies that are grafted onto other root stock. They are usually easy to grow, but there is also a list of things that can cause problems, including late freezes, planting too deep, inadequate sunlight, too much nitrogen, over watering or over fertilizing.
Bone meal and compost is the food of choice for these plants. Tree and regular peonies often have problems blooming in warmer areas (especially zones 8 and 9) where the weather doesn’t provide enough chill time for them to regenerate.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
December: good time to transplant trees and shrubs
December is upon us. Our year in the garden is winding down as the temperature drops. But for landscape lovers, there are visions of more than just sugar plums dancing in our heads.
Plant trees and shrubs
If you’ve been promising yourself (and your spouse, I’m guessing) that you really, really will get around to that landscaping project you’ve been discussing, don’t put it off until next spring. This is a very good time to plant trees and shrubs, depending on where you live. This currently applies to growing zones 7 - 10 Because they are in their dormant period, trees and shrubs are less likely to suffer “transplantation shock” at this time of year.
Preparing the site is the most important part of this project. As a general rule, you need to dig a hole about twice the size of the root system of the plant that you are planting or transplanting. If you have your own compost, add a generous amount to the bottom and sides of the hole.
If you are transplanting a tree from another location, it is important to set it in the hole as close as possible to the same level as it was in its previous home. Be sure the transplanted tree is sealed in well with water without flooding. You can “stake” larger or taller trees if there is a possibility they could be uprooted by strong winds or winter storms between now and next spring.
There is an excellent online resource with specific tips and instructions on transplanting just about tree and plant you can imagine. Go to http://www.humeseeds.com/qa_ndx2.htm#tran and scroll down to “Transplanting.” You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with a lot of other useful resources.
O Tannenbaum
On the subject of trees, if you’re planning on buying a “live” (as opposed to artificial) Christmas tree, consider buying a REAL live one, complete with roots, that you can plant as part of your landscape after the Holidays.
A few tips: Buy a tree that is balled in burlap and keep it balled while in the house. Keep it in the house for as short a time as possible. Keep it moist but not really wet. If possible, choose the outdoor location and dig the hole before you bring the tree indoors, because the ground might be frozen too hard for easy digging later!
Keep the soil in a wheelbarrow in a shed or garage so it will be easy to handle at planting time. If the ball was bound with nylon twine, remove it before planting. If the root ball is in a wire basket, it is okay to leave it on when you plant it as the roots will find their way out.
Feed the lawn
If you’re going to fertilize your lawn, the first two weeks of December are a good time to do it. This is because fertilizing at the onset of winter supports and improves root strength while your lawn slowly continues to grow through its semi-dormant period. Look for a slow release 3-1-2 formula, and use about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cool season grasses would need light follow-up doses 2 to 4 times over the year; warm season grasses perhaps 3 to 6 applications.
If you do decide to fertilize the lawn, be sure to rake away any remaining fallen leaves or other debris before you start.
Compost time
Add those (shredded) leaves to your compost pile, being sure to turn them from time to time to prevent mold forming. If you are not already the proud owner of a composting system, December is a good time to start. By next spring, you’ll have some valuable compost for your spring planting.
Essentially, compost is the broken-down residue of assorted organic material that has been worked over by worms and microscopic organisms. By the time they’ve finished with it, you have a rich, loamy brown substance that looks nothing like its original components.
You can simply start a “pile” in an out-of-the-way location or construct something a bit more permanent. I wrote a column that details some simple and effective ways to start and maintain a compost system. You can find it at http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/33712
Most of all, enjoy your December landscape!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Plant trees and shrubs
If you’ve been promising yourself (and your spouse, I’m guessing) that you really, really will get around to that landscaping project you’ve been discussing, don’t put it off until next spring. This is a very good time to plant trees and shrubs, depending on where you live. This currently applies to growing zones 7 - 10 Because they are in their dormant period, trees and shrubs are less likely to suffer “transplantation shock” at this time of year.
Preparing the site is the most important part of this project. As a general rule, you need to dig a hole about twice the size of the root system of the plant that you are planting or transplanting. If you have your own compost, add a generous amount to the bottom and sides of the hole.
If you are transplanting a tree from another location, it is important to set it in the hole as close as possible to the same level as it was in its previous home. Be sure the transplanted tree is sealed in well with water without flooding. You can “stake” larger or taller trees if there is a possibility they could be uprooted by strong winds or winter storms between now and next spring.
There is an excellent online resource with specific tips and instructions on transplanting just about tree and plant you can imagine. Go to http://www.humeseeds.com/qa_ndx2.htm#tran and scroll down to “Transplanting.” You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with a lot of other useful resources.
O Tannenbaum
On the subject of trees, if you’re planning on buying a “live” (as opposed to artificial) Christmas tree, consider buying a REAL live one, complete with roots, that you can plant as part of your landscape after the Holidays.
A few tips: Buy a tree that is balled in burlap and keep it balled while in the house. Keep it in the house for as short a time as possible. Keep it moist but not really wet. If possible, choose the outdoor location and dig the hole before you bring the tree indoors, because the ground might be frozen too hard for easy digging later!
Keep the soil in a wheelbarrow in a shed or garage so it will be easy to handle at planting time. If the ball was bound with nylon twine, remove it before planting. If the root ball is in a wire basket, it is okay to leave it on when you plant it as the roots will find their way out.
Feed the lawn
If you’re going to fertilize your lawn, the first two weeks of December are a good time to do it. This is because fertilizing at the onset of winter supports and improves root strength while your lawn slowly continues to grow through its semi-dormant period. Look for a slow release 3-1-2 formula, and use about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cool season grasses would need light follow-up doses 2 to 4 times over the year; warm season grasses perhaps 3 to 6 applications.
If you do decide to fertilize the lawn, be sure to rake away any remaining fallen leaves or other debris before you start.
Compost time
Add those (shredded) leaves to your compost pile, being sure to turn them from time to time to prevent mold forming. If you are not already the proud owner of a composting system, December is a good time to start. By next spring, you’ll have some valuable compost for your spring planting.
Essentially, compost is the broken-down residue of assorted organic material that has been worked over by worms and microscopic organisms. By the time they’ve finished with it, you have a rich, loamy brown substance that looks nothing like its original components.
You can simply start a “pile” in an out-of-the-way location or construct something a bit more permanent. I wrote a column that details some simple and effective ways to start and maintain a compost system. You can find it at http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/33712
Most of all, enjoy your December landscape!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Daylilies: Mow them down or dig up and divide
QUESTION: “Are you supposed to mow down daylilies and [ornamental] grasses? If so, should it be done in the fall or in the spring? I planted blue fescue last year and have not mown down at all yet. I also planted new grass this spring but I don't remember the name. I have several daylilies and some are quite old. I have never mowed them.” – Pat Nalty
ANSWER: With regard to the daylilies, you can mow them down anytime now, if you wish. An alternative would be to dig them up, divide them and then replant them to increase the coverage. Doing this now would give them a chance to settle in to their new environment during the winter.
When it comes to grasses, annual grooming is all that is needed, usually at the end of winter as the new grass is beginning to emerge.
QUESTION: “I recently planted 25 Old Fashioned Lilacs to enhance an existing hedge after professional removal of some invasive buckthorn. The lilacs are struggling despite watering, fertilizing when planting, etc. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth than just a few leaves at the top of each stem and revive the 6 stems that sprouted a few leaves initially and now are bare?
“We had unusually hot weather for many weeks which may have been a factor. I’d appreciate any suggestions you may have.” – Lois Engstrom
ANSWER: The hot weather could indeed be a factor. There is another possibility. If the buckthorn were very close to the lilac when they were removed, the lilac could have gone into shock. You might want to put bone meal around the roots of the lilac to help regenerate a better root system for the following spring.
Now, here’s a comment from a reader concerning an answer I gave recently concerning ways to deter snakes. The original question concerned ways to keep snakes away from a camp site and I suggested moth balls.
COMMENT: “I look forward to reading your articles each week, but was a bit unsettled by an answer you gave concerning snakes.
“Moth balls are not the best solution to deter snakes from an area. The snakes are attracted to the area because of the habitat and what it provides for them. They are either finding shelter or food and the best way to deter them is eliminating these things. By eliminating brush piles or dense under story plantings the snakes and their food sources will not have shelter.
“Moth balls do deter many creatures, but they also poison things unnecessarily. Mammals are deterred more often then amphibians (highly sensitive to chemicals) and reptiles.
“I'm not against the use of chemicals, but using them unnecessarily with ill effects on other creatures, including us, sometimes is not necessary.” – Michelle Migliore
ANSWER: You are correct in your answer and the solution you describe is certainly a bit more humane and environmentally responsible! I will pass this along to other readers.
QUESTION: “We are starting to build on our lake lot that is mostly wooded. When we go in to fill in the lower areas, how much soil can we add around trees without damaging the tree? Does it depend on the type of tree? We have oak, basswood and iron wood.” – Bill Schroers
ANSWER: In my experience, if you put soil at the base of the tree to a depth of more than a couple of inches you risk killing them.
A better idea if you need to raise the level of the ground is to build wells around the trees extending 3 to 4 foot from the trunk and them add your fill dirt outside the wells. You might want to get a local tree expert to look at them before you start.
Remember the roots of a tree extend out towards the drip line, perhaps 20 feet or more and a tree gets most of its water and nourishment from the top 12 inch layer of soil. If you cover that up it can produce dire consequences.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: With regard to the daylilies, you can mow them down anytime now, if you wish. An alternative would be to dig them up, divide them and then replant them to increase the coverage. Doing this now would give them a chance to settle in to their new environment during the winter.
When it comes to grasses, annual grooming is all that is needed, usually at the end of winter as the new grass is beginning to emerge.
QUESTION: “I recently planted 25 Old Fashioned Lilacs to enhance an existing hedge after professional removal of some invasive buckthorn. The lilacs are struggling despite watering, fertilizing when planting, etc. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth than just a few leaves at the top of each stem and revive the 6 stems that sprouted a few leaves initially and now are bare?
“We had unusually hot weather for many weeks which may have been a factor. I’d appreciate any suggestions you may have.” – Lois Engstrom
ANSWER: The hot weather could indeed be a factor. There is another possibility. If the buckthorn were very close to the lilac when they were removed, the lilac could have gone into shock. You might want to put bone meal around the roots of the lilac to help regenerate a better root system for the following spring.
Now, here’s a comment from a reader concerning an answer I gave recently concerning ways to deter snakes. The original question concerned ways to keep snakes away from a camp site and I suggested moth balls.
COMMENT: “I look forward to reading your articles each week, but was a bit unsettled by an answer you gave concerning snakes.
“Moth balls are not the best solution to deter snakes from an area. The snakes are attracted to the area because of the habitat and what it provides for them. They are either finding shelter or food and the best way to deter them is eliminating these things. By eliminating brush piles or dense under story plantings the snakes and their food sources will not have shelter.
“Moth balls do deter many creatures, but they also poison things unnecessarily. Mammals are deterred more often then amphibians (highly sensitive to chemicals) and reptiles.
“I'm not against the use of chemicals, but using them unnecessarily with ill effects on other creatures, including us, sometimes is not necessary.” – Michelle Migliore
ANSWER: You are correct in your answer and the solution you describe is certainly a bit more humane and environmentally responsible! I will pass this along to other readers.
QUESTION: “We are starting to build on our lake lot that is mostly wooded. When we go in to fill in the lower areas, how much soil can we add around trees without damaging the tree? Does it depend on the type of tree? We have oak, basswood and iron wood.” – Bill Schroers
ANSWER: In my experience, if you put soil at the base of the tree to a depth of more than a couple of inches you risk killing them.
A better idea if you need to raise the level of the ground is to build wells around the trees extending 3 to 4 foot from the trunk and them add your fill dirt outside the wells. You might want to get a local tree expert to look at them before you start.
Remember the roots of a tree extend out towards the drip line, perhaps 20 feet or more and a tree gets most of its water and nourishment from the top 12 inch layer of soil. If you cover that up it can produce dire consequences.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, November 17, 2006
More must-have Web links for garden problem solving!
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a column that listed some helpful Web sites, hosted by the USDA, for gardeners and landscapers. A number of readers have contacted me and asked if I know of any more Internet resources. You bet I do!
Here are a few more Web sites that are definitely worth bookmarking so you can refer to them when you are suddenly faced with a specific question or problem. And as always, I’m happy to try and help you personally if you send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
Many of these sites have long and complex Web addresses. When you’ve finished reading here, you might find it easier to go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man header where you can simply click on hot links to every site mentioned here.
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/1plants.htm#prsuy
If you’re looking for a fancy Website with a lot of flash and bling, this isn’t it. But if you need to investigate just about any plant you can imagine, this is an excellent no-frills database. For example, go to the very first listing (Abelia) and you’ll find a concise description and a bunch of links to close-up photographs with titles such as plant habit, leaves, flowering branches, etc, etc.
In fact the data base is so large that it spreads across three Web sites. The link above is to part one (plants A through E) with the other two sites covering the rest of the alphabet.
http://magazine.audubon.org/backyard/backyard0309.html#raingarden
Have you ever wondered how you could save water, reduce pollution and help wildlife all at the same time? The author of this Audubon article figured out that 24,000 gallons of rain water cascades off her roof every year, and she decided to create her own mini-wetland; what she describes as a rain garden.
The site describes how to channel roof run-off to create your own rain garden, and includes suggested plants for each geographic region of the USA.
http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/blueberry.htm
If you can think of it, however specific, there’s probably at least one Web site devoted to it! For everything you could ever possibly want to know about blueberries, this site hosted by Oregon State University is the “go-to” resource.
You’ll find scores of articles on every aspect of successful blueberry plant growing, from site selection and mulching to propagation, pollination and harvesting. Plenty of related topic links, too.
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=66
Grownative.org. The name pretty much tells you what this site is all about. Here you’ll find guides that help you put native plants to work in your landscape. Although focused mainly on Missouri, this is a helpful resource for anyone interested in developing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm
If you enjoy cooking, then you know that nothing beats using your own home-grown herbs, snipped fresh from your own garden. Here, you’ll find an exhaustive guide to selecting, planting, growing and harvesting herbs.
There’s also a description with line drawings of hundreds of herbs, both popular and obscure with specific instruction for successfully growing and using each of them. Bon appetit!
http://www.lawncare.com/
If your lawn is more weed than grass, or if you just want to browse ideas and expert advice on how to keep your lawn lush and green, this is a site you’ll want take a look at. A nice feature: click on the “What to do now” button, type in your zip code and get tips on lawn care in your specific area updated for each season.
If you’d like to receive an e-mailed copy of my wife Cheryl’s personal “link library” filled with links to many more helpful Web sites, simply drop me an e-mail request and we’ll forward it to you.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Here are a few more Web sites that are definitely worth bookmarking so you can refer to them when you are suddenly faced with a specific question or problem. And as always, I’m happy to try and help you personally if you send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
Many of these sites have long and complex Web addresses. When you’ve finished reading here, you might find it easier to go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man header where you can simply click on hot links to every site mentioned here.
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/1plants.htm#prsuy
If you’re looking for a fancy Website with a lot of flash and bling, this isn’t it. But if you need to investigate just about any plant you can imagine, this is an excellent no-frills database. For example, go to the very first listing (Abelia) and you’ll find a concise description and a bunch of links to close-up photographs with titles such as plant habit, leaves, flowering branches, etc, etc.
In fact the data base is so large that it spreads across three Web sites. The link above is to part one (plants A through E) with the other two sites covering the rest of the alphabet.
http://magazine.audubon.org/backyard/backyard0309.html#raingarden
Have you ever wondered how you could save water, reduce pollution and help wildlife all at the same time? The author of this Audubon article figured out that 24,000 gallons of rain water cascades off her roof every year, and she decided to create her own mini-wetland; what she describes as a rain garden.
The site describes how to channel roof run-off to create your own rain garden, and includes suggested plants for each geographic region of the USA.
http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/blueberry.htm
If you can think of it, however specific, there’s probably at least one Web site devoted to it! For everything you could ever possibly want to know about blueberries, this site hosted by Oregon State University is the “go-to” resource.
You’ll find scores of articles on every aspect of successful blueberry plant growing, from site selection and mulching to propagation, pollination and harvesting. Plenty of related topic links, too.
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=66
Grownative.org. The name pretty much tells you what this site is all about. Here you’ll find guides that help you put native plants to work in your landscape. Although focused mainly on Missouri, this is a helpful resource for anyone interested in developing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm
If you enjoy cooking, then you know that nothing beats using your own home-grown herbs, snipped fresh from your own garden. Here, you’ll find an exhaustive guide to selecting, planting, growing and harvesting herbs.
There’s also a description with line drawings of hundreds of herbs, both popular and obscure with specific instruction for successfully growing and using each of them. Bon appetit!
http://www.lawncare.com/
If your lawn is more weed than grass, or if you just want to browse ideas and expert advice on how to keep your lawn lush and green, this is a site you’ll want take a look at. A nice feature: click on the “What to do now” button, type in your zip code and get tips on lawn care in your specific area updated for each season.
If you’d like to receive an e-mailed copy of my wife Cheryl’s personal “link library” filled with links to many more helpful Web sites, simply drop me an e-mail request and we’ll forward it to you.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
The November garden: some timely tips from readers
This is a second chance to read one of the most-read columns, archived at www.landsteward.org
The days are getting shorter, the clocks have been turned and spring is not far away. At least that’s the way it is for all of us optimistic landscapers and gardeners. We just have to get through winter first!
So, as fall turns to winter, let’s take a quick look at some of our last “outdoor activities.” Some of these are mine and some are suggestions and ideas from readers of this column. Remember, your comments and questions are always welcome and can be very helpful to your fellow readers. Contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to get a personal response back right away.
Here’s a tip from a reader who simply signed him (or her) self as Gerry, who picked up this idea while surfing the ‘Net.
Too wet to mow?
Gerry says that if you need to give the lawn one last mow, but the grass is wet from a recent rainfall, don’t give up too soon! Get a length of rope or garden hose and stretch it across one end of the lawn. (It would help to have someone hold the other end.) Simply drag the hose or rope across the lawn to displace the water droplets that will sprinkle down to the soil below. Wait a few minutes (maybe a quarter hour) and the blades of grass should be dry enough for you to mow successfully.
A river runs through it...
A river – or even a small stream – can make a mess of your basement. Right now would be a good time to check the grading around your home’s foundation to make sure it drains away from the house.
Check the grading every now and then during the winter because snow or heavy rainfall can erode soil or cause it to settle (particularly in flower beds close to the foundation). Water can then build up in these indentations and is likely to seep through to your basement or crawl space. Refilling or regrading these depressions will direct water runoff away from your home’s foundation.
Fruit tree clean-up
If you have fruit trees as part of your landscape, take a few minutes to remove any debris that you might find under and around them. Look for twigs and leaves, as well as the last remaining fallen fruit (particularly under late-fruiting trees) which should not be left to rot on the ground.
Insects and diseases can spend the winter months snoozing in the debris and emerge in the spring to attack your fruit trees. Remove these potential “bug motels” now and your fruit trees could have a healthier head start next year.
The “Deadwood Stage”
Winter storms can cause serious damage to age-weakened trees... and they, in turn, can cause VERY serious damage to your home! A lightning strike or a heavy coating of ice can easily snap off a dead or dying tree limb weighing a ton or more. And that can make a big hole in your roof.
Unless the suspect limbs are easily accessible, this is a job for a reputable tree surgeon who can tell you which branches need to be removed and which could be trimmed back or “strapped” to give them extra support. A sleigh on the roof on Christmas morning is one thing; a huge tree branch poking through your bedroom ceiling is not so much fun!
“Doctor, it’s time for the transplant!”
Shrubs, plants and trees are entering their dormant cycle right about now, so if you need to move one to a new location, this is the right time. First, pick your new location and dig a hole big enough to comfortably hold the root ball.
Then carefully dig out the root ball, being sure to retain as much of the root system as you can. Before the root ball can dry out, place it in the prepared hole, adding back some of the soil, along with some compost, peat moss or manure. You can also add some fertilizer specifically developed to encourage growth in transplants. Tall plants might need staking until their roots take hold.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The days are getting shorter, the clocks have been turned and spring is not far away. At least that’s the way it is for all of us optimistic landscapers and gardeners. We just have to get through winter first!
So, as fall turns to winter, let’s take a quick look at some of our last “outdoor activities.” Some of these are mine and some are suggestions and ideas from readers of this column. Remember, your comments and questions are always welcome and can be very helpful to your fellow readers. Contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to get a personal response back right away.
Here’s a tip from a reader who simply signed him (or her) self as Gerry, who picked up this idea while surfing the ‘Net.
Too wet to mow?
Gerry says that if you need to give the lawn one last mow, but the grass is wet from a recent rainfall, don’t give up too soon! Get a length of rope or garden hose and stretch it across one end of the lawn. (It would help to have someone hold the other end.) Simply drag the hose or rope across the lawn to displace the water droplets that will sprinkle down to the soil below. Wait a few minutes (maybe a quarter hour) and the blades of grass should be dry enough for you to mow successfully.
A river runs through it...
A river – or even a small stream – can make a mess of your basement. Right now would be a good time to check the grading around your home’s foundation to make sure it drains away from the house.
Check the grading every now and then during the winter because snow or heavy rainfall can erode soil or cause it to settle (particularly in flower beds close to the foundation). Water can then build up in these indentations and is likely to seep through to your basement or crawl space. Refilling or regrading these depressions will direct water runoff away from your home’s foundation.
Fruit tree clean-up
If you have fruit trees as part of your landscape, take a few minutes to remove any debris that you might find under and around them. Look for twigs and leaves, as well as the last remaining fallen fruit (particularly under late-fruiting trees) which should not be left to rot on the ground.
Insects and diseases can spend the winter months snoozing in the debris and emerge in the spring to attack your fruit trees. Remove these potential “bug motels” now and your fruit trees could have a healthier head start next year.
The “Deadwood Stage”
Winter storms can cause serious damage to age-weakened trees... and they, in turn, can cause VERY serious damage to your home! A lightning strike or a heavy coating of ice can easily snap off a dead or dying tree limb weighing a ton or more. And that can make a big hole in your roof.
Unless the suspect limbs are easily accessible, this is a job for a reputable tree surgeon who can tell you which branches need to be removed and which could be trimmed back or “strapped” to give them extra support. A sleigh on the roof on Christmas morning is one thing; a huge tree branch poking through your bedroom ceiling is not so much fun!
“Doctor, it’s time for the transplant!”
Shrubs, plants and trees are entering their dormant cycle right about now, so if you need to move one to a new location, this is the right time. First, pick your new location and dig a hole big enough to comfortably hold the root ball.
Then carefully dig out the root ball, being sure to retain as much of the root system as you can. Before the root ball can dry out, place it in the prepared hole, adding back some of the soil, along with some compost, peat moss or manure. You can also add some fertilizer specifically developed to encourage growth in transplants. Tall plants might need staking until their roots take hold.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
These Web sites help solve tree and shrub problems
For gardeners, landscapers and horticulturists, the Internet has proved to be a boon we couldn’t have imagined a few years ago. For us it’s not so much an Information Highway as a vast, lush Botanical Garden, filled with every kind of information and reference we could possibly want!
Today, I want to highlight some Web sites that you might find particularly helpful. They might be brand new or they might be old friends that are already firmly established in your Favorites file. Either way, I hope you’ll take a look at these sites as they can prove to be invaluable resources when you need plant-related information.
As you know, I invite questions from readers who can reach me at steve@landsteward.org and I do my best to answer those questions based on my own experience. However, there are times when I look to the Internet to investigate a particularly tricky plant problem, either one of my own or one posed by a reader. Even the best doctors have a library of reference books; we plant lovers shouldn’t feel bashful about seeking helpful information either!
http://plants.usda.gov
As this site says on its home page: “The PLANTS Database provides standardized information about the vascular plants, mosses, liverworts, hornworts and lichens of the U.S. and its territories.”
You can see why many people regard this site as THE database for plants. For example, here you can download a list of plants native to your state. Heck, you can even download a complete plants checklist (warning: it’s a big list). There is a gallery 0f 30,000+ plant images and you can submit your own photos to the gallery.
While you’re there, you can read about endangered plants or wetland plants in your region, or learn more about noxious and invasive plants. This is a treasure trove of plant information and well worth bookmarking.
http://www.csrees.usda.gov
One of the best places you can turn to for expert help and advice is an Extension Service. Go to this Web site, also maintained by the United States Department of Agriculture, and you are only a few clicks away from finding someone to answer your questions.
Technically, this site is the home of Cooperative State Research, Education & Extension Service (CSREES). Here you can browse a lot of land-related topics. But when you need help, click on the link to “Local Extension Office.” This will take you to a map of the USA from which you click on your state. Once you see the state map, click on your county and you’ll see the complete contact information you need.
Often a quick phone call will answer your question, or they can direct you to a specific resource. I’ve always found the people at Extension Services to be very happy to offer help and advice.
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Feature/backyard/treeptg.html
The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) hosts this Web site that is a “must see” if you’re thinking of planting some trees on your land but aren’t quite sure where to start.
You’ll find unbiased answers to a lot of questions you might have about what type of trees to select, issues to consider about placement before you plant and how to maintain healthy trees.
> From that page, you can also find links to other NRCS pages that address backyard conservation topics such as ponds and backyard wetlands, composting, mulching, terracing, wildlife habitat and pest management.
www.landsteward.org
Okay, I have to confess that this is the Web site that I host. I’m including it here because you can click on direct links to the other sites I’ve mentioned when you find this column under the Plant Man heading.
My objective with landsteward.org is make it a “resource of resources” for anyone needing information about trees, shrubs or anything relating to gardens and landscaping. Visitors can find an extensive library of plant-related articles, tips and hundreds of links to other Web sites.
I’ll point you in the direction of additional helpful Internet sites in a future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Today, I want to highlight some Web sites that you might find particularly helpful. They might be brand new or they might be old friends that are already firmly established in your Favorites file. Either way, I hope you’ll take a look at these sites as they can prove to be invaluable resources when you need plant-related information.
As you know, I invite questions from readers who can reach me at steve@landsteward.org and I do my best to answer those questions based on my own experience. However, there are times when I look to the Internet to investigate a particularly tricky plant problem, either one of my own or one posed by a reader. Even the best doctors have a library of reference books; we plant lovers shouldn’t feel bashful about seeking helpful information either!
http://plants.usda.gov
As this site says on its home page: “The PLANTS Database provides standardized information about the vascular plants, mosses, liverworts, hornworts and lichens of the U.S. and its territories.”
You can see why many people regard this site as THE database for plants. For example, here you can download a list of plants native to your state. Heck, you can even download a complete plants checklist (warning: it’s a big list). There is a gallery 0f 30,000+ plant images and you can submit your own photos to the gallery.
While you’re there, you can read about endangered plants or wetland plants in your region, or learn more about noxious and invasive plants. This is a treasure trove of plant information and well worth bookmarking.
http://www.csrees.usda.gov
One of the best places you can turn to for expert help and advice is an Extension Service. Go to this Web site, also maintained by the United States Department of Agriculture, and you are only a few clicks away from finding someone to answer your questions.
Technically, this site is the home of Cooperative State Research, Education & Extension Service (CSREES). Here you can browse a lot of land-related topics. But when you need help, click on the link to “Local Extension Office.” This will take you to a map of the USA from which you click on your state. Once you see the state map, click on your county and you’ll see the complete contact information you need.
Often a quick phone call will answer your question, or they can direct you to a specific resource. I’ve always found the people at Extension Services to be very happy to offer help and advice.
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Feature/backyard/treeptg.html
The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) hosts this Web site that is a “must see” if you’re thinking of planting some trees on your land but aren’t quite sure where to start.
You’ll find unbiased answers to a lot of questions you might have about what type of trees to select, issues to consider about placement before you plant and how to maintain healthy trees.
> From that page, you can also find links to other NRCS pages that address backyard conservation topics such as ponds and backyard wetlands, composting, mulching, terracing, wildlife habitat and pest management.
www.landsteward.org
Okay, I have to confess that this is the Web site that I host. I’m including it here because you can click on direct links to the other sites I’ve mentioned when you find this column under the Plant Man heading.
My objective with landsteward.org is make it a “resource of resources” for anyone needing information about trees, shrubs or anything relating to gardens and landscaping. Visitors can find an extensive library of plant-related articles, tips and hundreds of links to other Web sites.
I’ll point you in the direction of additional helpful Internet sites in a future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
Protect plants from winter’s cold and frost
At this time of year, as evenings become a little more chilly, we can keep out the cold by pulling on a sweater or snuggling into a warm jacket as we brave the night air. But remember that plants feel the cold, too, and you can help them bundle up and stay protected against the coming winter weather.
One major problem that can harm your perennials is when the ground freezes then thaws then freezes again… and again. This can happen even in quite temperate regions during an unusually severe winter, and of course in some regions every winter could be called severe!
Plants subjected to repeated freeze-thaw-freeze conditions tend to “heave” their roots out of the soil where they can become frost-damaged. Mulching your plants can help protect them against the effects of freeze and thaw. There are plenty of choices when it comes to mulch, including straw, shredded bark and pine needles. One major benefit of straw is that it is hollow, allowing an effective layer of insulation without being too tightly packed.
Apply a winter “coat” of mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep around each plant. (If the plants are in an area that is unprotected from the elements or open to strong winter winds, you can safely add an extra inch or two of mulch.) Then gently pull the mulch back from the stem or truck with your fingers. This allows the plant to breathe and helps diminish the likelihood of disease problems.
Don’t make the mistake of adding the protective winter mulch too soon!
My best advice is to wait until after the first really freezing cold night, but before you expect any possible snowfall. Why wait? Mulch too early and you could be providing comfortable nesting areas for rodents that might chew on the plants you’re trying to protect.
It isn’t just the roots that can need some protection against the elements. A particularly hard frost can cause “above ground” damage, too. There are various commercially-made plant covers available from catalogs and garden centers. They are made from weather-resistant polyethylene and secure around the bottom with pull-tabs. Available in various sizes, they are fairly easy to slip over the top of the shrub or bush.
If you prefer to get creative, you can use lawn and leaf bags, and I’ve even seen sheets of bubble wrap shaped into plant covers. Plant covers should only be used when you are expecting a severe frost that could damage delicate plants. Remove the covers as soon as the immediate danger has passed. Do not leave plants covered for extended periods.
In the fall and winter, it’s not just cold weather that can attack your plants. Deer, rodents and other wildlife can cause quite a lot of damage, too. In a future column, I’ll discuss how to keep your plants off the all-they-can-eat “critter buffet.”
For more information on protecting plants read our article on What Are Fall Planting Risks?
One major problem that can harm your perennials is when the ground freezes then thaws then freezes again… and again. This can happen even in quite temperate regions during an unusually severe winter, and of course in some regions every winter could be called severe!
Plants subjected to repeated freeze-thaw-freeze conditions tend to “heave” their roots out of the soil where they can become frost-damaged. Mulching your plants can help protect them against the effects of freeze and thaw. There are plenty of choices when it comes to mulch, including straw, shredded bark and pine needles. One major benefit of straw is that it is hollow, allowing an effective layer of insulation without being too tightly packed.
Apply a winter “coat” of mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep around each plant. (If the plants are in an area that is unprotected from the elements or open to strong winter winds, you can safely add an extra inch or two of mulch.) Then gently pull the mulch back from the stem or truck with your fingers. This allows the plant to breathe and helps diminish the likelihood of disease problems.
Don’t make the mistake of adding the protective winter mulch too soon!
My best advice is to wait until after the first really freezing cold night, but before you expect any possible snowfall. Why wait? Mulch too early and you could be providing comfortable nesting areas for rodents that might chew on the plants you’re trying to protect.
It isn’t just the roots that can need some protection against the elements. A particularly hard frost can cause “above ground” damage, too. There are various commercially-made plant covers available from catalogs and garden centers. They are made from weather-resistant polyethylene and secure around the bottom with pull-tabs. Available in various sizes, they are fairly easy to slip over the top of the shrub or bush.
If you prefer to get creative, you can use lawn and leaf bags, and I’ve even seen sheets of bubble wrap shaped into plant covers. Plant covers should only be used when you are expecting a severe frost that could damage delicate plants. Remove the covers as soon as the immediate danger has passed. Do not leave plants covered for extended periods.
In the fall and winter, it’s not just cold weather that can attack your plants. Deer, rodents and other wildlife can cause quite a lot of damage, too. In a future column, I’ll discuss how to keep your plants off the all-they-can-eat “critter buffet.”
For more information on protecting plants read our article on What Are Fall Planting Risks?
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Black walnut trees can be grown from seeds as well as saplings
Regular readers of this column will know that I also host a weekly e-mailed newsletter. Today I thought you would like to see some recent questions that were sent to that newsletter, as well as some of the answers that I gave in response.
QUESTION: “It is weird that I am writing you. I came home last night with a bag full of black walnut seeds from my uncle's farm. My wife handed me your article on proper care for black walnut trees today. My intention is to plant some in my yard, and use the rest for dyeing. Anyway, your article seemed to be concerned with sapling trees, but what about growing them from the seed? Should I just dig a hole and plant, or should pot it for the time being? I live in Columbus, OH, on former farmland, so the soil basically sucks. Lots of stone, and I imagine a lot of clay. Any tips for seedling growing?
“On another note, I have a red oak sapling that is bent from the top being too heavy. The small trunk is sort of an "s" shape. I have it staked with a shepherd's crook, but I'm afraid that removing it will just destroy it. Again, any thoughts? Thanks for your time.” – Charlie Higley
ANSWER: Your walnuts can be planted in the soil right now. Leave them in the hull and plant to cover about one-inch deep. If you cannot plant them immediately, just be sure they don’t dry out, otherwise you could adversely affect their ability to geminate.
There is a very helpful online guide titled “How to Grow Black Walnuts,” produced by the Kansas State Agricultural College. You can find it at http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/pr_histpubs/Pubs/SC013.PDF and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under The Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org. > From your description, the red oak does sound top heavy. My suggestion is to try pruning some of the branches and out growth to take away some of the weight.
QUESTION: “I had a large hibiscus purchased from a florist that sat in a west facing window. The non-stop blossoms were show-stoppers and I managed to harvest 3 seeds from the plant. When I moved to the US from Canada I could not bring my plants but was thrilled when one of the hibiscus seeds germinated and grew. Now, 10 years later this plant has never bloomed despite my best efforts. I feed, prune and place it outdoors for the summer. What can I do to make this plant bloom?” -- Lynda Birmingham AL
ANSWER: “There are ‘blooming things’ that you can purchase from most garden centers and you might want to try one of them. However, there is a trick I use with wisteria around November when they go dormant. I take one tablespoon of Epsom salts and dissolve it into a gallon of water and saturate the soil at the base of the plant. In the spring, I repeat the process just before they start to leaf out.
One other thing comes to mind in that, since you only have the seed from the plant, you might have just a seedling and not the cultivar of the exact plant. If that is the case the bloom will not be the same as the original one with the non-stop blossoms.
QUESTION: “I have a question about an American Elm. I am wondering what would be the spread of this magnificent tree with a height of 100 feet. We live in the city so a tree of that size might be a bit overwhelming. My neighbor’s elm is about 50 feet in height with a spread of about 40 feet.” – Wende
ANSWER: As you’ve noticed, ‘shorter’ elms can have a spread that is about the same width as the height of the tree… up to a point! If the elm continues to grow – and some can reach 100 to 110 feet tall – it will end up with a spread of one half to two thirds of its height. That’s quite a spread!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “It is weird that I am writing you. I came home last night with a bag full of black walnut seeds from my uncle's farm. My wife handed me your article on proper care for black walnut trees today. My intention is to plant some in my yard, and use the rest for dyeing. Anyway, your article seemed to be concerned with sapling trees, but what about growing them from the seed? Should I just dig a hole and plant, or should pot it for the time being? I live in Columbus, OH, on former farmland, so the soil basically sucks. Lots of stone, and I imagine a lot of clay. Any tips for seedling growing?
“On another note, I have a red oak sapling that is bent from the top being too heavy. The small trunk is sort of an "s" shape. I have it staked with a shepherd's crook, but I'm afraid that removing it will just destroy it. Again, any thoughts? Thanks for your time.” – Charlie Higley
ANSWER: Your walnuts can be planted in the soil right now. Leave them in the hull and plant to cover about one-inch deep. If you cannot plant them immediately, just be sure they don’t dry out, otherwise you could adversely affect their ability to geminate.
There is a very helpful online guide titled “How to Grow Black Walnuts,” produced by the Kansas State Agricultural College. You can find it at http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/pr_histpubs/Pubs/SC013.PDF and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under The Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org. > From your description, the red oak does sound top heavy. My suggestion is to try pruning some of the branches and out growth to take away some of the weight.
QUESTION: “I had a large hibiscus purchased from a florist that sat in a west facing window. The non-stop blossoms were show-stoppers and I managed to harvest 3 seeds from the plant. When I moved to the US from Canada I could not bring my plants but was thrilled when one of the hibiscus seeds germinated and grew. Now, 10 years later this plant has never bloomed despite my best efforts. I feed, prune and place it outdoors for the summer. What can I do to make this plant bloom?” -- Lynda Birmingham AL
ANSWER: “There are ‘blooming things’ that you can purchase from most garden centers and you might want to try one of them. However, there is a trick I use with wisteria around November when they go dormant. I take one tablespoon of Epsom salts and dissolve it into a gallon of water and saturate the soil at the base of the plant. In the spring, I repeat the process just before they start to leaf out.
One other thing comes to mind in that, since you only have the seed from the plant, you might have just a seedling and not the cultivar of the exact plant. If that is the case the bloom will not be the same as the original one with the non-stop blossoms.
QUESTION: “I have a question about an American Elm. I am wondering what would be the spread of this magnificent tree with a height of 100 feet. We live in the city so a tree of that size might be a bit overwhelming. My neighbor’s elm is about 50 feet in height with a spread of about 40 feet.” – Wende
ANSWER: As you’ve noticed, ‘shorter’ elms can have a spread that is about the same width as the height of the tree… up to a point! If the elm continues to grow – and some can reach 100 to 110 feet tall – it will end up with a spread of one half to two thirds of its height. That’s quite a spread!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Butterfly bushes benefit from fall pruning
Today we have questions from several different parts of America… and even one from India!
QUESTION: “I planted some Rosa rugosas and butterfly bushes last spring. All are doing very well. My question is whether I need to prune these back before winter sets in. I live in Albany NY.” -- Gay Malin
ANSWER: The butterfly bushes can be pruned back once they go dormant. In fact I recommend cutting them back to about 6 inches for the first year and gradually giving them a bit more each year when pruning. The Rosa rugosas are best pruned in early spring, primarily for shaping and to cut out any dead branches or any that are touching or crossing each other.
QUESTION: “I am looking to create some privacy landscaping. What would you recommend for salt air? I would like a mixture of evergreens, crape myrtle and grasses. Not sure of the best evergreens for the seashore.” – Deborah Lukens
ANSWER: The evergreens you should use will depend largely on the Plant Hardiness Zone in which you live. If you are in zones 5 through 8, I would recommend Cedar Green Giants for the background of your privacy block, with crape myrtles, laurels or Rosa rugosas on the inside for all-summer color. Grasses and colorful perennials are also a good addition and can give a welcome look to a landscape.
As always I suggest that you sketch out a plan to get your ideas down on paper before you start the project. A background line of Green Giants and soft curving lines of color and texture on the inside will help to create a visually pleasing landscape.
QUESTION: “we have a camping site where sometimes snakes appear. Is there a chemical whose smell would keep the snakes and other reptiles away from the tents, or any method by which we can keep away the snakes?” --Rakesh Jain (Indore, India)
ANSWER: The best things we have always used are moth balls. There are products on the market, of course, but virtually all use the same ingredient found in common moth balls.
QUESTION: “I purchased a Japanese Red Maple sapling nine years ago. It had red leaves for several years, but the leaves have been green for the past two years. The tree is now 15 feet tall; beautiful, but green. How can I help the leaves turn red again, or can I?” – Michael Riley
ANSWER: There are several elements to consider here. First, take a look at the area around the tree to see if it has changed over the years. Japanese Red Maples need mostly full sun to stay red, otherwise they will revert back to green. Has anything been built near the tree causing it to be shaded or is another plant growing between it and the sun?
In some cases, using too much nitrogen rich fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn green. If you’ve been using fertilizer around the tree, you could try cutting back or stopping altogether in that vicinity.
QUESTION: “We planted lavender plants 3 years ago in our garden on the Eastern Shore, Maryland. Nothing happened the first year the plants stayed their original size (about 3"). The second year they started to grow and looked like we had achieved our goal. This year they were flourishing, fragrant and tall.
“Then one day they all just seemed to dry up and die. I'm not sure if they are dead at the root or what happened. It has been hot and dry then wet with high amounts of rain. Should I start over or leave them?” – Janice Enright
ANSWER: The same problem with lavender happened to us too. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant and does not do well with a lot of water. After some trial and error, we have been able to keep ours flourishing by having a sand bed underneath for drainage. We never water, and you should never fertilize. This is the only way we have found to grow it successfully.
QUESTION: “I planted some Rosa rugosas and butterfly bushes last spring. All are doing very well. My question is whether I need to prune these back before winter sets in. I live in Albany NY.” -- Gay Malin
ANSWER: The butterfly bushes can be pruned back once they go dormant. In fact I recommend cutting them back to about 6 inches for the first year and gradually giving them a bit more each year when pruning. The Rosa rugosas are best pruned in early spring, primarily for shaping and to cut out any dead branches or any that are touching or crossing each other.
QUESTION: “I am looking to create some privacy landscaping. What would you recommend for salt air? I would like a mixture of evergreens, crape myrtle and grasses. Not sure of the best evergreens for the seashore.” – Deborah Lukens
ANSWER: The evergreens you should use will depend largely on the Plant Hardiness Zone in which you live. If you are in zones 5 through 8, I would recommend Cedar Green Giants for the background of your privacy block, with crape myrtles, laurels or Rosa rugosas on the inside for all-summer color. Grasses and colorful perennials are also a good addition and can give a welcome look to a landscape.
As always I suggest that you sketch out a plan to get your ideas down on paper before you start the project. A background line of Green Giants and soft curving lines of color and texture on the inside will help to create a visually pleasing landscape.
QUESTION: “we have a camping site where sometimes snakes appear. Is there a chemical whose smell would keep the snakes and other reptiles away from the tents, or any method by which we can keep away the snakes?” --Rakesh Jain (Indore, India)
ANSWER: The best things we have always used are moth balls. There are products on the market, of course, but virtually all use the same ingredient found in common moth balls.
QUESTION: “I purchased a Japanese Red Maple sapling nine years ago. It had red leaves for several years, but the leaves have been green for the past two years. The tree is now 15 feet tall; beautiful, but green. How can I help the leaves turn red again, or can I?” – Michael Riley
ANSWER: There are several elements to consider here. First, take a look at the area around the tree to see if it has changed over the years. Japanese Red Maples need mostly full sun to stay red, otherwise they will revert back to green. Has anything been built near the tree causing it to be shaded or is another plant growing between it and the sun?
In some cases, using too much nitrogen rich fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn green. If you’ve been using fertilizer around the tree, you could try cutting back or stopping altogether in that vicinity.
QUESTION: “We planted lavender plants 3 years ago in our garden on the Eastern Shore, Maryland. Nothing happened the first year the plants stayed their original size (about 3"). The second year they started to grow and looked like we had achieved our goal. This year they were flourishing, fragrant and tall.
“Then one day they all just seemed to dry up and die. I'm not sure if they are dead at the root or what happened. It has been hot and dry then wet with high amounts of rain. Should I start over or leave them?” – Janice Enright
ANSWER: The same problem with lavender happened to us too. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant and does not do well with a lot of water. After some trial and error, we have been able to keep ours flourishing by having a sand bed underneath for drainage. We never water, and you should never fertilize. This is the only way we have found to grow it successfully.
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
Spectacular shrubs can dazzle with fall color
When it comes to fall color, it’s not only trees that put on a dazzling show. Select the right shrubs and you can have a display of autumn colors closer to ground level. Here are a few of my favorites:
Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compacta)
It is sometimes called Cork Tree or Dwarf Winged Euonymus, but nothing can better describe this shrub than the name Burning Bush! In the fall, the foliage turns to such a brilliant – almost luminous – red that it almost seems too perfect to be real. But real it is, of course.
If left untrimmed, it can reach a height of about 6 to 10 feet and produces orange/red berries that provide food for wildlife through the winter. A row of Burning Bushes in front of your house, particularly if backed by a white or light-colored wall, will create a colorful welcome to visitors in the fall. Although Burning Bush is somewhat shade-tolerant, you’ll see the brightest color if the shrubs are planted in full sun.
Fothergilla (Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae)
Like many plants, this one has an interesting history. It is named after Dr. John Fothergill (1735 – 1780), a physician and botanist, who championed the cause of the American colonists and became a friend of Benjamin Franklin.
Fothergilla is a dense, compact shrub producing fragrant, feathery, white flowers in the spring that remind me of bottle brushes. The rounded, dark-green leaves turn to a delightful orange-red and even scarlet. Fothergilla are tolerant of most soils, but do best in acid, moist, well-drained soil.
Clethra Ruby Spice (Clethra alnifolia Ruby Spice)
The first time I saw this plant (or to be more accurate, a whole section of them) growing at a friend’s nursery, I was immediately struck by the cinnamon-like fragrance that was apparent from at least 50 feet away! It was July and the clusters of pink flowers were in full bloom.
Later, in the fall, the foliage becomes a very pleasant shade of yellow and then golden-brown. Ruby Spice is a good choice for shrub borders or around water features. I don’t recommend planting in drought-prone areas, but on the other hand, it is fairly adaptable to semi-waterlogged clay soils.
Little Henry (Itea virginica)
Little Henry could be a good choice when you’re looking for an attractive perennial shrub that maintains a compact size. Topping out between 1 and 3 feet at maturity, Little Henry is a semi-evergreen with dark green leaves that turn to a reddish tint in early fall and then go all the way to remarkable shades of dark crimson and scarlet as the temperatures drop. As I have said before, Little Henry is the one plant that can truly rival Burning Bush when it comes to eye-popping fall color.
I’ve found Little Henry to be quite easy to grow and it seems relatively free of problems associated with disease and insects. It’s an adaptable little fellow, tolerant of damp or dry soils, variances in pH and tolerant of light conditions from shade to full sun. I’d say Little Henry would be a good choice to cover a bank or a hillside that’s not easy to mow. It looks good around a pond or lake, too.
Shenandoah grass (Panicum virgatum)
This elegant ornamental grass is sometimes mistaken for Japanese Blood grass, but is just different enough to give your landscape a unique edge. Shenandoah has a cascading form with foliage that starts out green with the tips beginning to turn red by about mid-July. By the fall, the entire plant will have turned to a mixture of orange and red, for a spectacular display.
Shenandoah is a fairly fast-growing grass that can reach a height of around 4 to 5 feet. Plant it where it can get the benefit of full sun in order to achieve the full benefit of the spectacular color.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compacta)
It is sometimes called Cork Tree or Dwarf Winged Euonymus, but nothing can better describe this shrub than the name Burning Bush! In the fall, the foliage turns to such a brilliant – almost luminous – red that it almost seems too perfect to be real. But real it is, of course.
If left untrimmed, it can reach a height of about 6 to 10 feet and produces orange/red berries that provide food for wildlife through the winter. A row of Burning Bushes in front of your house, particularly if backed by a white or light-colored wall, will create a colorful welcome to visitors in the fall. Although Burning Bush is somewhat shade-tolerant, you’ll see the brightest color if the shrubs are planted in full sun.
Fothergilla (Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae)
Like many plants, this one has an interesting history. It is named after Dr. John Fothergill (1735 – 1780), a physician and botanist, who championed the cause of the American colonists and became a friend of Benjamin Franklin.
Fothergilla is a dense, compact shrub producing fragrant, feathery, white flowers in the spring that remind me of bottle brushes. The rounded, dark-green leaves turn to a delightful orange-red and even scarlet. Fothergilla are tolerant of most soils, but do best in acid, moist, well-drained soil.
Clethra Ruby Spice (Clethra alnifolia Ruby Spice)
The first time I saw this plant (or to be more accurate, a whole section of them) growing at a friend’s nursery, I was immediately struck by the cinnamon-like fragrance that was apparent from at least 50 feet away! It was July and the clusters of pink flowers were in full bloom.
Later, in the fall, the foliage becomes a very pleasant shade of yellow and then golden-brown. Ruby Spice is a good choice for shrub borders or around water features. I don’t recommend planting in drought-prone areas, but on the other hand, it is fairly adaptable to semi-waterlogged clay soils.
Little Henry (Itea virginica)
Little Henry could be a good choice when you’re looking for an attractive perennial shrub that maintains a compact size. Topping out between 1 and 3 feet at maturity, Little Henry is a semi-evergreen with dark green leaves that turn to a reddish tint in early fall and then go all the way to remarkable shades of dark crimson and scarlet as the temperatures drop. As I have said before, Little Henry is the one plant that can truly rival Burning Bush when it comes to eye-popping fall color.
I’ve found Little Henry to be quite easy to grow and it seems relatively free of problems associated with disease and insects. It’s an adaptable little fellow, tolerant of damp or dry soils, variances in pH and tolerant of light conditions from shade to full sun. I’d say Little Henry would be a good choice to cover a bank or a hillside that’s not easy to mow. It looks good around a pond or lake, too.
Shenandoah grass (Panicum virgatum)
This elegant ornamental grass is sometimes mistaken for Japanese Blood grass, but is just different enough to give your landscape a unique edge. Shenandoah has a cascading form with foliage that starts out green with the tips beginning to turn red by about mid-July. By the fall, the entire plant will have turned to a mixture of orange and red, for a spectacular display.
Shenandoah is a fairly fast-growing grass that can reach a height of around 4 to 5 feet. Plant it where it can get the benefit of full sun in order to achieve the full benefit of the spectacular color.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Six trees that bring vibrant color to fall landscapes
It is a wonder of Nature that, as plants prepare themselves for the winter ahead, they produce some of the most spectacular, eye-popping color of their life cycle.
If you are like Cheryl and me, you love to see the glorious colors. The change seems gradual at first, then almost overnight, everything between the ground and the sky is a flood of gold, red, crimson and claret.
If you enjoy driving out to the countryside to take in the fall colors, or if you look with envy upon your neighbors’ colorful fall displays, this could the perfect time to select some trees and shrubs that you can plant now and enjoy for many autumn seasons in the future.
Today, I have a few colorful suggestions; trees that seem to come into their own each fall, saying, “Hey guys! Look at me! I’m dazzling!”
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
If you’re looking for pistachio nuts, keep looking because you won’t find them on this tree, despite its name. However, you will find a delightful tree whose color changes quite gradually, allowing you truly to enjoy the different hues. It’s a hardy tree, quite tolerant of drought and soil conditions. We started growing some from seed about 20 years ago and found them easy to grow; but I suggest you look for them in gallon pots.
Cleveland Select Flowering Pear
In the spring, the Cleveland Select bursts out with snowy white blooms; in fact more blooms than just about any flowering pear I can think of. Then a few months later, the foliage changes from glossy green to purplish red and orange. This makes a real delight for lovers of colorful trees, and is ideal for yard or street planting.
China Snow Fringe Tree (Chionanthus retusus)
“Huh?” I hear you say. Yes, an unusual plant, but worth seeking out, particularly if you like something that will probably be unique in your neighborhood. This particular variety was developed by the renowned horticulturist Don Shadow and is one of the most beautiful of the small flowering trees in spring, summer AND fall. If you’re having trouble locating this rare find, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with some shopping information.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
> From a rarity to a perennial favorite among fall color fans! You can’t go
far wrong with a Sugar Maple. The majestic height and conical shape provide the ideal canvas for a vast display of gold and orange every fall. Be aware, though, that maples need some room to grow. This one can reach 75 – 100 feet at maturity, so you need to be thinking parkland or large lawns to provide the right scale.
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
For really vibrant colors, you can’t beat Sourwood. When the drooping white panicles of brilliant white flowers finally begin to fade at the onset of autumn, you are treated to a foliage show that runs the gamut from orange-red to brick red to flaming scarlet. This one can be tricky to transplant successfully, so I recommend buying container-grown plants rather than bare root. You’ll get the best results when you plant Sourwood in moist, acid, well-drained soil that has quite a bit of organic content.
Washington Hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum)
With a name like this, it sounds more like a 19th century author than a tree. However there are no literary connections. Growing to a manageable height of around 25 to 35 feet, the Washington Hawthorn tends to bloom a little later than many other trees, producing clusters of white flowers in late spring and early summer, followed by red berries that remain through the autumn as the foliage changes to an attractive mix of orange and red.
Next time, I’ll take a look at some shrubs that brighten up fall landscapes with their brilliant colors.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
If you are like Cheryl and me, you love to see the glorious colors. The change seems gradual at first, then almost overnight, everything between the ground and the sky is a flood of gold, red, crimson and claret.
If you enjoy driving out to the countryside to take in the fall colors, or if you look with envy upon your neighbors’ colorful fall displays, this could the perfect time to select some trees and shrubs that you can plant now and enjoy for many autumn seasons in the future.
Today, I have a few colorful suggestions; trees that seem to come into their own each fall, saying, “Hey guys! Look at me! I’m dazzling!”
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
If you’re looking for pistachio nuts, keep looking because you won’t find them on this tree, despite its name. However, you will find a delightful tree whose color changes quite gradually, allowing you truly to enjoy the different hues. It’s a hardy tree, quite tolerant of drought and soil conditions. We started growing some from seed about 20 years ago and found them easy to grow; but I suggest you look for them in gallon pots.
Cleveland Select Flowering Pear
In the spring, the Cleveland Select bursts out with snowy white blooms; in fact more blooms than just about any flowering pear I can think of. Then a few months later, the foliage changes from glossy green to purplish red and orange. This makes a real delight for lovers of colorful trees, and is ideal for yard or street planting.
China Snow Fringe Tree (Chionanthus retusus)
“Huh?” I hear you say. Yes, an unusual plant, but worth seeking out, particularly if you like something that will probably be unique in your neighborhood. This particular variety was developed by the renowned horticulturist Don Shadow and is one of the most beautiful of the small flowering trees in spring, summer AND fall. If you’re having trouble locating this rare find, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with some shopping information.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
> From a rarity to a perennial favorite among fall color fans! You can’t go
far wrong with a Sugar Maple. The majestic height and conical shape provide the ideal canvas for a vast display of gold and orange every fall. Be aware, though, that maples need some room to grow. This one can reach 75 – 100 feet at maturity, so you need to be thinking parkland or large lawns to provide the right scale.
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
For really vibrant colors, you can’t beat Sourwood. When the drooping white panicles of brilliant white flowers finally begin to fade at the onset of autumn, you are treated to a foliage show that runs the gamut from orange-red to brick red to flaming scarlet. This one can be tricky to transplant successfully, so I recommend buying container-grown plants rather than bare root. You’ll get the best results when you plant Sourwood in moist, acid, well-drained soil that has quite a bit of organic content.
Washington Hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum)
With a name like this, it sounds more like a 19th century author than a tree. However there are no literary connections. Growing to a manageable height of around 25 to 35 feet, the Washington Hawthorn tends to bloom a little later than many other trees, producing clusters of white flowers in late spring and early summer, followed by red berries that remain through the autumn as the foliage changes to an attractive mix of orange and red.
Next time, I’ll take a look at some shrubs that brighten up fall landscapes with their brilliant colors.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
Crape Myrtles bloom with a dose of Epsom Salts
QUESTION: “I have eleven Crape Myrtles in my front yard, Last year they flowered. This year there was limited flowering, and my white Crape Myrtle did not flower this year. What plant food can I give them to make the all bloom for next year? Can you give them spike slow release food? What would be the best, and when do I start to feed them?” – Diane B.
ANSWER: There are two things to bear in mind. One: If you fertilize with a heavy nitrogen you will produce foliage but no blooms. Two: In order for your Crape Myrtle to bloom you may want to try this cocktail (for the Crape Myrtles, not you) Mix one tablespoon of Epsom Salts into one gallon of water and pour around the roots of the plant. Repeat for the others, using one gallon per plant. This works by stressing the plant causing it to bloom. I would try the Epsom Salts now and perhaps nip back the tips of the tree or even trim if it needs shaping.
QUESTION: “I just moved into a new home that has a Dogwood and it doesn't seem to be doing well. Many of the leaves are turning red. The leaves that are entirely red are shriveling up with the tips of them brown, and it looks like the tips of those leaves are dying. The other leaves have purple spots on them. Some of those have some tan spots that have dark rims but not all the leaves have this. However, all of the leaves have purple spots or blotches on them.
One section of the tree has what looks like a white residue on some of the leaves that are on the ends of the branch. Most of the leaves are not fully open. Also the bark is all green on the main trunk and there are light green, and whiteish-green blotches on the trunk and branches. There is some yellow on the trunk near the base of the tree. Its early September so some of the leaves could be changing early, but most look sick. The tree sits in full sun in the front yard. Please help! Is there anything I can do?” – Chuck S.
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I don’t think there is not a whole lot that you can do. From what you tell me, one of two things is most likely happening. The first of these is that the tree has developed anthracnose and, sadly, there is no cure. It is a disease that I believe will eventually wipe out the regular native Dogwoods as we know them. Fortunately, there are new hybrids being developed that are anthracnose resistant. One successful variety is named Appalachian Spring.
The second possibility is that your tree is displaying powdery mildew which again is common to Dogwoods. You can spray with a fungicide such as Cleary about 3 times during the growing season to control that. Good luck!
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column very much and have learned a great deal from it. Now I have a problem not only with moles/gophers throughout the entire garden and yard but also white stuff that has appeared on my zucchini, other squash, phlox and even wild roses. Is this Scale? and if so, what can I use to get rid of it? I have also found it in other areas around Wisconsin. Thanks for your good columns and helpful advice.” – Janet F.
ANSWER: I don’t know for sure, but it just sounds like powdery mildew which is spread by wind. Since humidity encourages it, late summer with cool nights and warm days is when you are likely to see more of it. If you think that this is what the problem is, you can spray your perennial plants with the following mixture.
1 gallon water
2 ½ tbs horticultural oil
1 tbs baking soda
Mix and store in labeled closed jar. Spray as symptoms appear on into cool weather.
There isn’t much to say about moles/gophers. They are a pill to deal with! There is a product called Mole Stopper which works with the taste and smell of the critter to keep it away.
These q&a's were taken from the Plant Man Column.
ANSWER: There are two things to bear in mind. One: If you fertilize with a heavy nitrogen you will produce foliage but no blooms. Two: In order for your Crape Myrtle to bloom you may want to try this cocktail (for the Crape Myrtles, not you) Mix one tablespoon of Epsom Salts into one gallon of water and pour around the roots of the plant. Repeat for the others, using one gallon per plant. This works by stressing the plant causing it to bloom. I would try the Epsom Salts now and perhaps nip back the tips of the tree or even trim if it needs shaping.
QUESTION: “I just moved into a new home that has a Dogwood and it doesn't seem to be doing well. Many of the leaves are turning red. The leaves that are entirely red are shriveling up with the tips of them brown, and it looks like the tips of those leaves are dying. The other leaves have purple spots on them. Some of those have some tan spots that have dark rims but not all the leaves have this. However, all of the leaves have purple spots or blotches on them.
One section of the tree has what looks like a white residue on some of the leaves that are on the ends of the branch. Most of the leaves are not fully open. Also the bark is all green on the main trunk and there are light green, and whiteish-green blotches on the trunk and branches. There is some yellow on the trunk near the base of the tree. Its early September so some of the leaves could be changing early, but most look sick. The tree sits in full sun in the front yard. Please help! Is there anything I can do?” – Chuck S.
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I don’t think there is not a whole lot that you can do. From what you tell me, one of two things is most likely happening. The first of these is that the tree has developed anthracnose and, sadly, there is no cure. It is a disease that I believe will eventually wipe out the regular native Dogwoods as we know them. Fortunately, there are new hybrids being developed that are anthracnose resistant. One successful variety is named Appalachian Spring.
The second possibility is that your tree is displaying powdery mildew which again is common to Dogwoods. You can spray with a fungicide such as Cleary about 3 times during the growing season to control that. Good luck!
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column very much and have learned a great deal from it. Now I have a problem not only with moles/gophers throughout the entire garden and yard but also white stuff that has appeared on my zucchini, other squash, phlox and even wild roses. Is this Scale? and if so, what can I use to get rid of it? I have also found it in other areas around Wisconsin. Thanks for your good columns and helpful advice.” – Janet F.
ANSWER: I don’t know for sure, but it just sounds like powdery mildew which is spread by wind. Since humidity encourages it, late summer with cool nights and warm days is when you are likely to see more of it. If you think that this is what the problem is, you can spray your perennial plants with the following mixture.
1 gallon water
2 ½ tbs horticultural oil
1 tbs baking soda
Mix and store in labeled closed jar. Spray as symptoms appear on into cool weather.
There isn’t much to say about moles/gophers. They are a pill to deal with! There is a product called Mole Stopper which works with the taste and smell of the critter to keep it away.
These q&a's were taken from the Plant Man Column.
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
Garden goodies lure birds to your backyard
What makes a garden into a welcoming club room for birds? Simply put, food,
water and shelter. Provide these three basics and your landscape can quickly become an avian haven. Today I'll have a few more suggestions for plants that you might want to consider if attracting birds is one of your priorities.
If you missed last week's column, which was the first part of a two parter on bird-friendly gardens, you can find it under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
Food will always be a major motivator. Essentially, plants that provide fruit, nuts or seeds are the ones that are the most likely to attract birds.
Additionally, plants that provide nesting materials, shelter from the weather or a comfortable roosting location will make your landscape even more bird-friendly.
Here are some more plants that appeal to both birds and bird lovers:
American Bittersweet (Calastrus scandens)
Plant some Bittersweet and watch birds and other wildlife as they enjoy the clusters of yellow-orange fruit when it ripens around October. If you can harvest any before the birds have pecked it all away, you can make delightful fall floral arrangement with the boughs. Bittersweet adapts well to most soil conditions and can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet at maturity.
Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)
I like the highly fragrant reddish brown flowers on this dense, rounded deciduous shrub. The birds like the urn-shaped fruits that are really seed capsules, developing in early fall and often lasting well into the winter.
By the way, this shrub is sometimes called Strawberry Bush because the blooms smell a bit like a combination of strawberries, bananas and pineapple. Even the leaves are pleasantly fragrant when you bruise them to release the aroma. Planting Carolina Allspice near a window or around a patio would be a good way to enjoy the fragrance and the birds.
Flowering Crabapples
I particularly like two varieties named Robinson Crabapple and Centurion Crabapple. The former is the faster growing of the two and sports distinctive pink blossoms. The Centurion has a rose-red flower and, with a mature height around 25 feet, is a good choice for landscaping or alongside a driveway.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)
Spicebush produces shiny red berries (called drupes) that are attractive to a variety of birds including American Robin, Northern Bobwhite and the Great
Crested Flycatcher. Spicebush can make a very pleasant hedge when planted about 3 feet apart. It has a mature height of 3 to 6 feet and produces fragrant yellow-green flowers in early spring.
Viburnum Cardinal Candy (Viburnum dilatatum)
Yes, I've told you about this one before, but definitely worth mentioning again! This Viburnum produces masses of shiny scarlet-red fruit that really is "eye candy" and seems to be a bird's version of a candy treat, too. The fruit starts appearing in late summer and quite often can still be seen in early spring the following year. By May, the branches are covered by creamy white flowers and the process begins all over again.
Red Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
This dense, thorny shrub produces both leaves and fruit that are delightful shades of red. As well as food, this bush can provide a safe haven for birds as the thorns will usually deter the neighbor's kitty from plunging in too recklessly.
Arnolds Red Honeysuckle (Lonicera arnolds red)
The birds and the bees - well, definitely the bees anyway - will be drawn to this Honeysuckle that seems to grow well in just about any soil type short of a swamp. With bright red blooms in spring, it is tough as well as attractive, and makes an ideal screen or hedgerow with a mature height between 6 and 10 feet.
And be sure to provide fresh, clean drinking water for your birds to enjoy after all their munchies!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
water and shelter. Provide these three basics and your landscape can quickly become an avian haven. Today I'll have a few more suggestions for plants that you might want to consider if attracting birds is one of your priorities.
If you missed last week's column, which was the first part of a two parter on bird-friendly gardens, you can find it under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
Food will always be a major motivator. Essentially, plants that provide fruit, nuts or seeds are the ones that are the most likely to attract birds.
Additionally, plants that provide nesting materials, shelter from the weather or a comfortable roosting location will make your landscape even more bird-friendly.
Here are some more plants that appeal to both birds and bird lovers:
American Bittersweet (Calastrus scandens)
Plant some Bittersweet and watch birds and other wildlife as they enjoy the clusters of yellow-orange fruit when it ripens around October. If you can harvest any before the birds have pecked it all away, you can make delightful fall floral arrangement with the boughs. Bittersweet adapts well to most soil conditions and can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet at maturity.
Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)
I like the highly fragrant reddish brown flowers on this dense, rounded deciduous shrub. The birds like the urn-shaped fruits that are really seed capsules, developing in early fall and often lasting well into the winter.
By the way, this shrub is sometimes called Strawberry Bush because the blooms smell a bit like a combination of strawberries, bananas and pineapple. Even the leaves are pleasantly fragrant when you bruise them to release the aroma. Planting Carolina Allspice near a window or around a patio would be a good way to enjoy the fragrance and the birds.
Flowering Crabapples
I particularly like two varieties named Robinson Crabapple and Centurion Crabapple. The former is the faster growing of the two and sports distinctive pink blossoms. The Centurion has a rose-red flower and, with a mature height around 25 feet, is a good choice for landscaping or alongside a driveway.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)
Spicebush produces shiny red berries (called drupes) that are attractive to a variety of birds including American Robin, Northern Bobwhite and the Great
Crested Flycatcher. Spicebush can make a very pleasant hedge when planted about 3 feet apart. It has a mature height of 3 to 6 feet and produces fragrant yellow-green flowers in early spring.
Viburnum Cardinal Candy (Viburnum dilatatum)
Yes, I've told you about this one before, but definitely worth mentioning again! This Viburnum produces masses of shiny scarlet-red fruit that really is "eye candy" and seems to be a bird's version of a candy treat, too. The fruit starts appearing in late summer and quite often can still be seen in early spring the following year. By May, the branches are covered by creamy white flowers and the process begins all over again.
Red Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
This dense, thorny shrub produces both leaves and fruit that are delightful shades of red. As well as food, this bush can provide a safe haven for birds as the thorns will usually deter the neighbor's kitty from plunging in too recklessly.
Arnolds Red Honeysuckle (Lonicera arnolds red)
The birds and the bees - well, definitely the bees anyway - will be drawn to this Honeysuckle that seems to grow well in just about any soil type short of a swamp. With bright red blooms in spring, it is tough as well as attractive, and makes an ideal screen or hedgerow with a mature height between 6 and 10 feet.
And be sure to provide fresh, clean drinking water for your birds to enjoy after all their munchies!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, September 06, 2006
Fall planting to create a “bird friendly” garden
For most of us, one of the joys of creating a garden or landscape is watching the birds that are attracted by the plants that we have so carefully nurtured. As the fall planting season approaches, amateur ornithologists can feed their interest by selecting plants that act as “bird magnets.”
Today, I have some suggestions for plants that could make a great bird garden. But first, here are a few tips that will help you create your own bird sanctuary.
First of all, get a pencil and paper and roughly sketch out your existing landscape, showing the position of the house, garage, driveway, etc, as well as any significant trees and groups of shrubs. By doing this, you’ll have a “birds-eye view” of the natural and artificial resources you already have.
Here’s a good idea: Are there any wildlife sanctuaries, parks or botanical gardens within driving distance? If so, it’s certainly worth a visit. Why? Because you’ll be able to see what kind of natural bird habitats “work” in your area. If you can find one of the employees or volunteers at the park or garden, so much the better. I’ve found that they’re often eager to talk to visitors and give you the benefit of their experience.
Another good resource is the Web site hosted by the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. You can read an excellent article titled “Twelve ways to design a bird-friendly garden” at http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/wildlife/handbooks/birds/3.html and you can click on a direct link when you find this Plant Man column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Among the idea described in the article:
Re-create the layers of plant growth found in local natural areas. You’ll be putting the odds in your favor if you provide plants that are proven to attract birds locally.
Select plants with an eye to providing nutritional foods during different seasons. A no brainer: birds will go where the food is!
Plant small trees and shrubs in same-species clumps. One good reason is that you’ll increase pollination and fertility, providing more fruit for birds to eat.
Provide at least one clump of conifers. You’ll be furnishing shelter, nesting and roosting sites.
Spare a dead tree (snag) for the birds. Great perches for songbirds and ideal locations to hang birdhouses.
The Brooklyn Botanical article goes into considerably more detail than we have space for here and is an excellent primer for anyone planning a bird-friendly garden. Investing a few minutes to read through it could definitely pay dividends.
And now, some plant ideas that will look good and attract birds to your garden.
Fragrant abelia (Abelia mosanensis)
This is an abelia that is both fragrant and hardy. How hardy? Well, it was found growing on the land of the Latvian-Russian border, so you can bet it’s pretty darn hardy! The rich pink flowers can “out-fragrance” even lilacs and seem popular with many species of birds.
Hummingbird Clethra (Clethra alnifolia hummingbird)
As you might guess from its name this fast-growing deciduous shrub hits the spot for hummingbirds as well as butterflies. The fragrant white flowers are bottlebrush-shaped on glossy green densely mounded foliage that turns a pleasant shade of yellow in the fall.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis)
Sometimes known as juneberry or shad bush, it can be grown either as a multi-stemmed shrub or a small tree, reaching a height of about 20 to 30 feet with a spread of 10 to 15 feet. The berries are very popular with birds and can be eaten by humans, too (or so they say; I let the birds eat my share). The flowers are both showy and fragrant, growing in lush white clusters, and are among the earliest of the flowering shrubs each spring.
There we have just three quick suggestions that would be attractive elements in your bird-friendly garden. If you’re looking for more plant ideas as you plan your fall plantings, drop me an e-mail with some brief details about your landscape and what you’re hoping to achieve and I’ll reply with some suggestions.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Today, I have some suggestions for plants that could make a great bird garden. But first, here are a few tips that will help you create your own bird sanctuary.
First of all, get a pencil and paper and roughly sketch out your existing landscape, showing the position of the house, garage, driveway, etc, as well as any significant trees and groups of shrubs. By doing this, you’ll have a “birds-eye view” of the natural and artificial resources you already have.
Here’s a good idea: Are there any wildlife sanctuaries, parks or botanical gardens within driving distance? If so, it’s certainly worth a visit. Why? Because you’ll be able to see what kind of natural bird habitats “work” in your area. If you can find one of the employees or volunteers at the park or garden, so much the better. I’ve found that they’re often eager to talk to visitors and give you the benefit of their experience.
Another good resource is the Web site hosted by the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. You can read an excellent article titled “Twelve ways to design a bird-friendly garden” at http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/wildlife/handbooks/birds/3.html and you can click on a direct link when you find this Plant Man column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Among the idea described in the article:
Re-create the layers of plant growth found in local natural areas. You’ll be putting the odds in your favor if you provide plants that are proven to attract birds locally.
Select plants with an eye to providing nutritional foods during different seasons. A no brainer: birds will go where the food is!
Plant small trees and shrubs in same-species clumps. One good reason is that you’ll increase pollination and fertility, providing more fruit for birds to eat.
Provide at least one clump of conifers. You’ll be furnishing shelter, nesting and roosting sites.
Spare a dead tree (snag) for the birds. Great perches for songbirds and ideal locations to hang birdhouses.
The Brooklyn Botanical article goes into considerably more detail than we have space for here and is an excellent primer for anyone planning a bird-friendly garden. Investing a few minutes to read through it could definitely pay dividends.
And now, some plant ideas that will look good and attract birds to your garden.
Fragrant abelia (Abelia mosanensis)
This is an abelia that is both fragrant and hardy. How hardy? Well, it was found growing on the land of the Latvian-Russian border, so you can bet it’s pretty darn hardy! The rich pink flowers can “out-fragrance” even lilacs and seem popular with many species of birds.
Hummingbird Clethra (Clethra alnifolia hummingbird)
As you might guess from its name this fast-growing deciduous shrub hits the spot for hummingbirds as well as butterflies. The fragrant white flowers are bottlebrush-shaped on glossy green densely mounded foliage that turns a pleasant shade of yellow in the fall.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis)
Sometimes known as juneberry or shad bush, it can be grown either as a multi-stemmed shrub or a small tree, reaching a height of about 20 to 30 feet with a spread of 10 to 15 feet. The berries are very popular with birds and can be eaten by humans, too (or so they say; I let the birds eat my share). The flowers are both showy and fragrant, growing in lush white clusters, and are among the earliest of the flowering shrubs each spring.
There we have just three quick suggestions that would be attractive elements in your bird-friendly garden. If you’re looking for more plant ideas as you plan your fall plantings, drop me an e-mail with some brief details about your landscape and what you’re hoping to achieve and I’ll reply with some suggestions.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
These lawn mushrooms are no fun guys!
You pour a cup of morning coffee and glance out over your lawn. Wait a minute! What are those little white bumps? They weren’t there last night. If you’ve ever had that happen to you, you can sympathize with the frustration felt by this reader...
QUESTION: “What can I do to stop the growth of mushrooms in my backyard? I have to remove them sometimes twice weekly.” – Dorothy Branch
ANSWER: Mushrooms (or toadstools) are often a sign that your lawn has insufficient drainage and is staying wet. Addressing the drainage problem is the best first step.
Simply picking the mushrooms won’t get rid of the problem. The mushrooms are the reproductive (or fruiting) structures of certain kinds of fungi that are present below the surface of the lawn. The caps contain millions of microscopic spores that are wind-carried until they find a favorable site in which to grow. They then send out long filaments deep into the soil below your lawn.
An excellent online resource is this publication from the University of California http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74100.html and you can click on a direct link to that report when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Even though picking the ‘shrooms won’t do much to prevent the underlying problem, the primary reasons for removing mushrooms from lawns are to keep them away from children and pets and to improve the lawn's appearance.
Always bear in mind that some species are poisonous and you should never eat mushrooms picked from your lawn unless you are a fungi expert and you are certain they are edible! It’s a good idea to keep a pair of dedicated mushroom gloves handy if removing them really is a frequent chore. This will help to keep the spores off your hands so you don’t ingest them or pass them along when you touch Fido or the kids.
A few weeks ago, I wrote a column titled “Turn wet land into spectacular bog garden.” Recently I received the following e-mail from a reader: COMMENT: “In light of the concern with rapidly disappearing wetlands and the recent Supreme Court decision concerning filling wetlands as a possible violation of the Clean Water Act, I think you might at least have mentioned wetlands protection and [its] importance. The Corps of Engineers is responsible for monitoring and enforcing activities involving wetlands. I realize you were probably thinking about rather small tracts; still it may not take much disturbance such as excavating soil to come within the terms of wetlands protection.” – John Watson
ANSWER: Good point, John. I am a strong supporter of wetlands protection and I’m pleased to take this opportunity to remind readers about the importance of wetlands preservation. As you note, I was specifically talking about those small patches of lawn or garden that are simply “wet land” rather than “wetlands.” Again, you can refer to that column by visiting my Web site.
Here’s another reader comment that you might find helpful:
COMMENT: “I would like to pass on some information to other gardeners. We have tried to plant a weeping cherry tree three times and every time it grows well and all of a sudden all the leaves fall off and it dies. We were told to use Bayer Systematic Insect Spray. Hopefully this is not premature but it is doing fantastic and so far the cherry tree borer has stayed away from it. I also used it on the crepe myrtles and no longer have the "sootie mold" on the leaves which comes from the aphids. Hope this helps someone.” – Bob Steffon
ANSWER: I have not tried that particular product so I have no personal experience, but I’m glad to know it seems to be working for you. I always like to receive ideas and recommendations from readers and then pass them along.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “What can I do to stop the growth of mushrooms in my backyard? I have to remove them sometimes twice weekly.” – Dorothy Branch
ANSWER: Mushrooms (or toadstools) are often a sign that your lawn has insufficient drainage and is staying wet. Addressing the drainage problem is the best first step.
Simply picking the mushrooms won’t get rid of the problem. The mushrooms are the reproductive (or fruiting) structures of certain kinds of fungi that are present below the surface of the lawn. The caps contain millions of microscopic spores that are wind-carried until they find a favorable site in which to grow. They then send out long filaments deep into the soil below your lawn.
An excellent online resource is this publication from the University of California http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74100.html and you can click on a direct link to that report when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Even though picking the ‘shrooms won’t do much to prevent the underlying problem, the primary reasons for removing mushrooms from lawns are to keep them away from children and pets and to improve the lawn's appearance.
Always bear in mind that some species are poisonous and you should never eat mushrooms picked from your lawn unless you are a fungi expert and you are certain they are edible! It’s a good idea to keep a pair of dedicated mushroom gloves handy if removing them really is a frequent chore. This will help to keep the spores off your hands so you don’t ingest them or pass them along when you touch Fido or the kids.
A few weeks ago, I wrote a column titled “Turn wet land into spectacular bog garden.” Recently I received the following e-mail from a reader: COMMENT: “In light of the concern with rapidly disappearing wetlands and the recent Supreme Court decision concerning filling wetlands as a possible violation of the Clean Water Act, I think you might at least have mentioned wetlands protection and [its] importance. The Corps of Engineers is responsible for monitoring and enforcing activities involving wetlands. I realize you were probably thinking about rather small tracts; still it may not take much disturbance such as excavating soil to come within the terms of wetlands protection.” – John Watson
ANSWER: Good point, John. I am a strong supporter of wetlands protection and I’m pleased to take this opportunity to remind readers about the importance of wetlands preservation. As you note, I was specifically talking about those small patches of lawn or garden that are simply “wet land” rather than “wetlands.” Again, you can refer to that column by visiting my Web site.
Here’s another reader comment that you might find helpful:
COMMENT: “I would like to pass on some information to other gardeners. We have tried to plant a weeping cherry tree three times and every time it grows well and all of a sudden all the leaves fall off and it dies. We were told to use Bayer Systematic Insect Spray. Hopefully this is not premature but it is doing fantastic and so far the cherry tree borer has stayed away from it. I also used it on the crepe myrtles and no longer have the "sootie mold" on the leaves which comes from the aphids. Hope this helps someone.” – Bob Steffon
ANSWER: I have not tried that particular product so I have no personal experience, but I’m glad to know it seems to be working for you. I always like to receive ideas and recommendations from readers and then pass them along.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, August 24, 2006
'Plant’ your own personality on your landscape
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote this column on the subject of new and unusual twists on old favorites for folks who want to create a landscape look that is just a little out of the ordinary. Judging by the e-mail I received, many readers are intrigued by the idea of less-than-familiar plants, so today I have a few more suggestions that will make your garden just a little more unique.
Spirea are among the easiest plants to transplant and to grow successfully. They also tend to grow quite quickly, so they are worth considering if you need to establish a mature look without a long wait. Spirea are not particularly uncommon, but if you pick one or two of the less common varieties you can put a personal stamp on your landscape.
Spirea "Snow Storm"
As the seasons change, this beauty seems to take on a whole different personality, if color is anything to go by. In late spring and early summer, it is covered by such a profusion of white blooms that it looks as if it had been blanketed by a freak snowstorm. The dome-shaped blooms are quite large (6 to 8 inches across) and are pure white with delicate pink centers. The blossoms contrast beautifully with the deep blue-green leaves.
When summer turns to fall, the foliage puts on an eye-popping display of yellow, red and orange, a marked contrast from the profusion of white seen only a few weeks before.
Snow Storm can work well as a specimen, but I’ve seen it as the backdrop for a perennial garden when several of them are planted about 5 feet apart. It’s also an excellent choice if you’re looking for an unusual shrub border. It is fairly easy to grow and seems to maintain a consistent flower color regardless of soil type, but in my experience it prefers well-drained or sandy soil. At maturity, Snow Storm reaches a height of 3 to 6 feet.
Spirea "Magic Carpet" pp # 9363
It is no exaggeration to say that I fell in love with Magic Carpet the first time I saw it at the nursery. It was the height of summer so it was in full bloom covered with deep pink flowers offset by leaves that were bronze to light green with red tips.
The nurseryman told me that, in the spring, it has vibrant, red-emerging leaf shoots that turn to the bronze/light green color I was looking at under the summer sun. In fact, bright sun will bring out the most vibrant color and Magic Carpet is quite drought-resistant, too. Apparently, the foliage will retain its rich russet tones until well into late fall or early winter.
This is a plant that can play many roles in a landscape, due to its compact size, reaching a mature height of only 12" to 18" with a spread of about two feet or so. This would make a spectacular – and unexpected – groundcover or work well as a small specimen shrub, perhaps with the larger Spirea Snow Storm as a back drop.
Two other spireas you might want to check out if you would like a personal look for your landscape: Darts Red (with its striking deep red blooms) and the compact Lemon Princess (sporting oversized bright pink flowers over toothed gold-green leaves).
All well worth looking for when you’re striving for a landscape that reflects your individual personality! If you’re having trouble finding them, drop a note to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll help you with some shopping information. If you missed the previous column featuring unusual twists on old favorites, you can find it at www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading. Look for "variations on old favorites add pizzazz to landscape."
As fall planting season approaches, I’ll try to come up with a few more uncommon plants that might appeal to you. Meanwhile, if you want some specific suggestions, send me an e-mail with a few details about your landscape and location and I’ll reply with some suggestions.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Spirea are among the easiest plants to transplant and to grow successfully. They also tend to grow quite quickly, so they are worth considering if you need to establish a mature look without a long wait. Spirea are not particularly uncommon, but if you pick one or two of the less common varieties you can put a personal stamp on your landscape.
Spirea "Snow Storm"
As the seasons change, this beauty seems to take on a whole different personality, if color is anything to go by. In late spring and early summer, it is covered by such a profusion of white blooms that it looks as if it had been blanketed by a freak snowstorm. The dome-shaped blooms are quite large (6 to 8 inches across) and are pure white with delicate pink centers. The blossoms contrast beautifully with the deep blue-green leaves.
When summer turns to fall, the foliage puts on an eye-popping display of yellow, red and orange, a marked contrast from the profusion of white seen only a few weeks before.
Snow Storm can work well as a specimen, but I’ve seen it as the backdrop for a perennial garden when several of them are planted about 5 feet apart. It’s also an excellent choice if you’re looking for an unusual shrub border. It is fairly easy to grow and seems to maintain a consistent flower color regardless of soil type, but in my experience it prefers well-drained or sandy soil. At maturity, Snow Storm reaches a height of 3 to 6 feet.
Spirea "Magic Carpet" pp # 9363
It is no exaggeration to say that I fell in love with Magic Carpet the first time I saw it at the nursery. It was the height of summer so it was in full bloom covered with deep pink flowers offset by leaves that were bronze to light green with red tips.
The nurseryman told me that, in the spring, it has vibrant, red-emerging leaf shoots that turn to the bronze/light green color I was looking at under the summer sun. In fact, bright sun will bring out the most vibrant color and Magic Carpet is quite drought-resistant, too. Apparently, the foliage will retain its rich russet tones until well into late fall or early winter.
This is a plant that can play many roles in a landscape, due to its compact size, reaching a mature height of only 12" to 18" with a spread of about two feet or so. This would make a spectacular – and unexpected – groundcover or work well as a small specimen shrub, perhaps with the larger Spirea Snow Storm as a back drop.
Two other spireas you might want to check out if you would like a personal look for your landscape: Darts Red (with its striking deep red blooms) and the compact Lemon Princess (sporting oversized bright pink flowers over toothed gold-green leaves).
All well worth looking for when you’re striving for a landscape that reflects your individual personality! If you’re having trouble finding them, drop a note to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll help you with some shopping information. If you missed the previous column featuring unusual twists on old favorites, you can find it at www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading. Look for "variations on old favorites add pizzazz to landscape."
As fall planting season approaches, I’ll try to come up with a few more uncommon plants that might appeal to you. Meanwhile, if you want some specific suggestions, send me an e-mail with a few details about your landscape and location and I’ll reply with some suggestions.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Weeds have less chance in a thick, healthy lawn
The summer heat can create headaches for landscapers and gardeners. When it comes to watering, how much is too much? And what can be done about the sudden emergence of crab grass? These were questions e-mailed to me recently by readers of this column.
QUESTION: "I have 52,000 square feet of sod, it's been very nice and green but this year I have been invaded by crab grass. I have never had this problem before. I had previously used one of those green thumb services but this year I decided to do it myself to save some money. This crab grass grows so fast, so big it's taking over! It has popped up right through my sod. What do you think I'm doing wrong and what might correct the problem?" – Bob
ANSWER: Crabgrass can be a problem for cool-season lawns during the heat of summer. In most cases, the seed is there lying dormant during fall/winter and begins to sprout in spring. Your lawn service was constantly caring for your lawn, using the proper fertilizer, herbicide and correct mowing height. It is worth noting that weeds generally aren't a problem in thick, healthy lawns.
Most people just fertilize and mow their lawns. But, it takes research and a lot of time to achieve a healthy lawn. Fertilizer should be applied (on cool-season grass) in early spring, early summer, late summer, and early fall. Some fertilizer compounds contain herbicides which should be used in the spring season as a pre-emergence.
When mowing, the height will depend mostly on the recommended height set by the seed company for the grass planted. Most are in the 2-4 inch height range, but again it depends on the grass variety. Not enough fertilizer, mowing too closely, drought, insects and diseases can also play a part in the weed problem as well.
This time of year, you may want to visit your hardware store for their recommendation on a post-emergence herbicide for crabgrass that will not harm your lawn. Follow the directions on the packaging. Since you do have a problem with the crabgrass now, you may want to apply a pre-emergence during winter or very early spring.
There are several good books on lawn care at most book stores (maybe even your local hardware store). If you decide to continue to maintain your lawn yourself, you might want to pick one up.
QUESTION: "I have 19 Emerald green Arborvitae, planted about two months ago. I watered them as the nursery man said, for 5 minutes every other day for the first week, then if we had no rain, once a week for 5 minutes each. I also set up a weeping hose around all of them so that I could water them while I was at work. My question is, does overwatering cause the trees to go brown and if it does, will they come back if I stop watering them?" – Patrick Blythe
ANSWER: Plants that are over watered and plants that are under watered can show the same symptoms. Based on what you have told me, yes, I would guess that you are over watering. It is a hard call on how much to water during the heat of summer. My recommendation is to cut back on the amount that you are giving them. A good deep watering every 3rd-5th day will be more than enough during the hottest part of summer. You may need to check the soil at the base of the plants by pulling some of the soil away to see if the root area is moist or dry.
As the weather begins cool somewhat, generally in early/mid September, taper off watering even more to harden off the plants. Cutting down to watering every 7 to 10 days by fall would be good. As fall sets in, you may not even need to water them at all, as well as through the winter. If your fall/winter is drier than normal, you may want to water from time to time. In most regions, fall and winter receive more moisture (through rain and snow) and with cooler temperatures there is considerably less stress on the plants. However, you should not attempt to water during freezing weather.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: "I have 52,000 square feet of sod, it's been very nice and green but this year I have been invaded by crab grass. I have never had this problem before. I had previously used one of those green thumb services but this year I decided to do it myself to save some money. This crab grass grows so fast, so big it's taking over! It has popped up right through my sod. What do you think I'm doing wrong and what might correct the problem?" – Bob
ANSWER: Crabgrass can be a problem for cool-season lawns during the heat of summer. In most cases, the seed is there lying dormant during fall/winter and begins to sprout in spring. Your lawn service was constantly caring for your lawn, using the proper fertilizer, herbicide and correct mowing height. It is worth noting that weeds generally aren't a problem in thick, healthy lawns.
Most people just fertilize and mow their lawns. But, it takes research and a lot of time to achieve a healthy lawn. Fertilizer should be applied (on cool-season grass) in early spring, early summer, late summer, and early fall. Some fertilizer compounds contain herbicides which should be used in the spring season as a pre-emergence.
When mowing, the height will depend mostly on the recommended height set by the seed company for the grass planted. Most are in the 2-4 inch height range, but again it depends on the grass variety. Not enough fertilizer, mowing too closely, drought, insects and diseases can also play a part in the weed problem as well.
This time of year, you may want to visit your hardware store for their recommendation on a post-emergence herbicide for crabgrass that will not harm your lawn. Follow the directions on the packaging. Since you do have a problem with the crabgrass now, you may want to apply a pre-emergence during winter or very early spring.
There are several good books on lawn care at most book stores (maybe even your local hardware store). If you decide to continue to maintain your lawn yourself, you might want to pick one up.
QUESTION: "I have 19 Emerald green Arborvitae, planted about two months ago. I watered them as the nursery man said, for 5 minutes every other day for the first week, then if we had no rain, once a week for 5 minutes each. I also set up a weeping hose around all of them so that I could water them while I was at work. My question is, does overwatering cause the trees to go brown and if it does, will they come back if I stop watering them?" – Patrick Blythe
ANSWER: Plants that are over watered and plants that are under watered can show the same symptoms. Based on what you have told me, yes, I would guess that you are over watering. It is a hard call on how much to water during the heat of summer. My recommendation is to cut back on the amount that you are giving them. A good deep watering every 3rd-5th day will be more than enough during the hottest part of summer. You may need to check the soil at the base of the plants by pulling some of the soil away to see if the root area is moist or dry.
As the weather begins cool somewhat, generally in early/mid September, taper off watering even more to harden off the plants. Cutting down to watering every 7 to 10 days by fall would be good. As fall sets in, you may not even need to water them at all, as well as through the winter. If your fall/winter is drier than normal, you may want to water from time to time. In most regions, fall and winter receive more moisture (through rain and snow) and with cooler temperatures there is considerably less stress on the plants. However, you should not attempt to water during freezing weather.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
Try something new in your garden!
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 08/13/06 - 08/19/06
(695 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
There’s something comforting about planting the tried-and-true in the garden. A sense of continuity and tradition. But sometimes, those familiar stand-bys can seem a little dull and boring. It doesn’t have to be that way.
Today, I have some ideas for turning “okay” into “Oh Wow!” How? By looking for plants that are perennial favorites... but then selecting variants from that plant’s family that are a lot less familiar. Take the tried-and-true and give it a tweak!
Hydrangea macrophylla Cardinal Red
Let’s start with a plant that is familiar to just about everyone: the hydrangea. It used to be the plant of choice with people looking for flowering shrubs. Because of that, hydrangeas seemed to be everywhere and as a result they began to lose their appeal. But I’ve noticed that the humble hydrangea is once again becoming popular, particularly with a younger generation of homeowners.
Select a slightly unusual variety – such as the Cardinal Red – and your planting puts a unique twist on an old stand-by. Not only is the foliage attractive, but the huge red flower heads put on a great show all summer. One of the reasons for the popularity of hydrangeas is that they are shade tolerant and grow well on the shady side of a building or under trees. I like to see them planted as specimens, or massed together for stunning borders. The dried flower heads look good in flower arrangements, too.
Another option, if you’re laying out cool colors for your garden, could be the hydrangea Nikko Blue that will look delightful amid all those purples, pinks and whites.
Hydrangea macrophylla Forever Pink
Two things make this hydrangea a little different. It’s a dwarf variety, making it perfect for a low hedge or foundation planting. Secondly, Forever Pink blooms about one month earlier than most other hydrangeas and usually continues looking good until frost.
But why stop at hydrangeas?
Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica “Little Henry”)
If you’re looking for a compact shrub that’s easy to grow, relatively free of diseases and provides year-round color, Little Henry could be for you.
The lightly-scented pure white flowers remind me of a spectacular display of bursting fireworks, frozen in time. But it’s the foliage that boasts the most dazzling color. The dark green leaves take on a reddish tinge in early fall that develops into dark crimson and scarlet and the days get chillier. The fantastic blood-red foliage even eclipses the more familiar Burning Bush.
Little Henry is an easygoing fellow who tolerates soil from moist to dry and light conditions from full sun to shade. As always, if you cannot find this plant easily, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll see if I can get you some shopping information.
Rosa “Carefree Delight”
Your neighbors might have roses, but they probably don’t have this variety. Many horticulturists consider the Carefree Delight to be one of the most beautiful, long blooming, and hardy, disease resistant shrub roses available today, so this is definitely a possibility if you’re looking for a twist on a traditional favorite.
This is what you might call a “living fence” and forms a dense wall of foliage and hundreds of blooms with very little effort on your part. The flowers start out as dark pink buds that develop into white-eyed blossoms and often continue from late spring until frost.
Giant Pussy Willow (Salix chaenomeloides)
Yes, pussy willows are a familiar sight. But this one looks like it is on steroids! To give you an idea, it has catkins the size of a rabbit’s foot and can grow to about ten feet high. It’s not easy to find but quite easy to grow.
I like the silver-grey foliage in the summer and the glowing red-yellow bark in the winter. Seeing the red buds turn into furry catkins in the early spring still brings out the kid in me.
So look for unusual twists on old favorites and put a unique face on a familiar landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 08/13/06 - 08/19/06
(695 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
There’s something comforting about planting the tried-and-true in the garden. A sense of continuity and tradition. But sometimes, those familiar stand-bys can seem a little dull and boring. It doesn’t have to be that way.
Today, I have some ideas for turning “okay” into “Oh Wow!” How? By looking for plants that are perennial favorites... but then selecting variants from that plant’s family that are a lot less familiar. Take the tried-and-true and give it a tweak!
Hydrangea macrophylla Cardinal Red
Let’s start with a plant that is familiar to just about everyone: the hydrangea. It used to be the plant of choice with people looking for flowering shrubs. Because of that, hydrangeas seemed to be everywhere and as a result they began to lose their appeal. But I’ve noticed that the humble hydrangea is once again becoming popular, particularly with a younger generation of homeowners.
Select a slightly unusual variety – such as the Cardinal Red – and your planting puts a unique twist on an old stand-by. Not only is the foliage attractive, but the huge red flower heads put on a great show all summer. One of the reasons for the popularity of hydrangeas is that they are shade tolerant and grow well on the shady side of a building or under trees. I like to see them planted as specimens, or massed together for stunning borders. The dried flower heads look good in flower arrangements, too.
Another option, if you’re laying out cool colors for your garden, could be the hydrangea Nikko Blue that will look delightful amid all those purples, pinks and whites.
Hydrangea macrophylla Forever Pink
Two things make this hydrangea a little different. It’s a dwarf variety, making it perfect for a low hedge or foundation planting. Secondly, Forever Pink blooms about one month earlier than most other hydrangeas and usually continues looking good until frost.
But why stop at hydrangeas?
Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica “Little Henry”)
If you’re looking for a compact shrub that’s easy to grow, relatively free of diseases and provides year-round color, Little Henry could be for you.
The lightly-scented pure white flowers remind me of a spectacular display of bursting fireworks, frozen in time. But it’s the foliage that boasts the most dazzling color. The dark green leaves take on a reddish tinge in early fall that develops into dark crimson and scarlet and the days get chillier. The fantastic blood-red foliage even eclipses the more familiar Burning Bush.
Little Henry is an easygoing fellow who tolerates soil from moist to dry and light conditions from full sun to shade. As always, if you cannot find this plant easily, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll see if I can get you some shopping information.
Rosa “Carefree Delight”
Your neighbors might have roses, but they probably don’t have this variety. Many horticulturists consider the Carefree Delight to be one of the most beautiful, long blooming, and hardy, disease resistant shrub roses available today, so this is definitely a possibility if you’re looking for a twist on a traditional favorite.
This is what you might call a “living fence” and forms a dense wall of foliage and hundreds of blooms with very little effort on your part. The flowers start out as dark pink buds that develop into white-eyed blossoms and often continue from late spring until frost.
Giant Pussy Willow (Salix chaenomeloides)
Yes, pussy willows are a familiar sight. But this one looks like it is on steroids! To give you an idea, it has catkins the size of a rabbit’s foot and can grow to about ten feet high. It’s not easy to find but quite easy to grow.
I like the silver-grey foliage in the summer and the glowing red-yellow bark in the winter. Seeing the red buds turn into furry catkins in the early spring still brings out the kid in me.
So look for unusual twists on old favorites and put a unique face on a familiar landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, August 02, 2006
No-sweat ideas for dog-day gardening
It’s August. It’s hot and dry, or it’s hot and humid. But pretty much everywhere... it’s hot. And that means, for most of us, it’s not much fun being outdoors.
Fortunately, the “must do” list for garden and landscape lovers is mercifully short. But that doesn’t mean you can let it slide!
Let’s take a look at my “dog days must do” list that will keep your landscape looking good until those cooler days return.
Start early!
Don’t put it off. It’s tempting to pour another cup of coffee and look out at the great outdoors from your air-conditioned nest. But leave it too late and when you DO step outside, the heat hits you smack in the face and you retreat back inside.
Work in short bursts
Get out there before the sun gets up too high and take care of one or two landscape chores, even if you only spend fifteen or twenty minutes doing it. You can always go back out again tomorrow morning.
Weed and weed again
Leave weeds alone too long and they get a real grip on your landscape, sucking up moisture and nutrients that should be going to your plants. Don’t try to weed every square inch in one go! Working in short bursts, thoroughly weed one area this morning, then tomorrow you can pick up where you left off.
As much as possible, try to pull the weeds before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. If you need an incentive, remind yourself that every seed will turn into a new weed if you don’t get it now!
Water the lawn... or not
As I’ve said many times before, for best results water deeply about once a week rather than lightly and more frequently. And set the mower blades to around three inches so that the slightly taller grass shades the soil and allows the moisture to linger longer.
But if your lawn should turn brown, or if your municipality imposes water restrictions, don’t sweat it. For the most part, a brown lawn is dormant and will resume its more attractive green hue when the fall rain returns.
Trees and shrubs
Take a look at your trees and remove any dead branches. If you have any summer flowering shrubs that are beginning to look unkempt, you can prune them back to a better shape as soon as they’ve finished flowering.
Perennials
Pick the dead flowers off your perennials. You can do this as you’re weeding around them if you wish, taking care of two chores at once. Deadheading not only makes your garden look fresher and brighter, they will also continue to flower longer because they will not go into their seed-producing phase just yet.
Look! Up in the sky...
It’s a hanging basket! Sometimes, when we’re concentrating on plants at ground level, we can forget to check on those hanging baskets. Reach up and push your finger deep down into the soil. You’re checking to see if there is enough moisture down at the root level, not just on the surface. If it doesn’t feel moist, water them thoroughly, but be careful not to over water to avoid rotting the roots.
While you’re at it, do the same thing with any container plants out there on your porch or patio. Again, the best time to water is early in the morning.
Bath time for birdies
If you have a bird bath, be sure that it has fresh water and isn’t getting green and slimy. Apart from being an unhealthy environment for the birds, stagnant water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes. At the same time, make sure that tarps and wheelbarrows haven’t collected storm water creating a mini mosquito farm. Can you say West Nile Virus? I thought you could!
Remember, don’t be a hero! You won’t win a medal for working outside in the broiling sun until you drop. Go out early. Take a bottle of water with you. Work in short bursts. Don’t try to get everything done in one session.
Now go back inside and enjoy your air conditioning as you survey your landscape with a sense of real accomplishment. And remember the words of Scarlett O’Hara: “Tomorrow is another day!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Fortunately, the “must do” list for garden and landscape lovers is mercifully short. But that doesn’t mean you can let it slide!
Let’s take a look at my “dog days must do” list that will keep your landscape looking good until those cooler days return.
Start early!
Don’t put it off. It’s tempting to pour another cup of coffee and look out at the great outdoors from your air-conditioned nest. But leave it too late and when you DO step outside, the heat hits you smack in the face and you retreat back inside.
Work in short bursts
Get out there before the sun gets up too high and take care of one or two landscape chores, even if you only spend fifteen or twenty minutes doing it. You can always go back out again tomorrow morning.
Weed and weed again
Leave weeds alone too long and they get a real grip on your landscape, sucking up moisture and nutrients that should be going to your plants. Don’t try to weed every square inch in one go! Working in short bursts, thoroughly weed one area this morning, then tomorrow you can pick up where you left off.
As much as possible, try to pull the weeds before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. If you need an incentive, remind yourself that every seed will turn into a new weed if you don’t get it now!
Water the lawn... or not
As I’ve said many times before, for best results water deeply about once a week rather than lightly and more frequently. And set the mower blades to around three inches so that the slightly taller grass shades the soil and allows the moisture to linger longer.
But if your lawn should turn brown, or if your municipality imposes water restrictions, don’t sweat it. For the most part, a brown lawn is dormant and will resume its more attractive green hue when the fall rain returns.
Trees and shrubs
Take a look at your trees and remove any dead branches. If you have any summer flowering shrubs that are beginning to look unkempt, you can prune them back to a better shape as soon as they’ve finished flowering.
Perennials
Pick the dead flowers off your perennials. You can do this as you’re weeding around them if you wish, taking care of two chores at once. Deadheading not only makes your garden look fresher and brighter, they will also continue to flower longer because they will not go into their seed-producing phase just yet.
Look! Up in the sky...
It’s a hanging basket! Sometimes, when we’re concentrating on plants at ground level, we can forget to check on those hanging baskets. Reach up and push your finger deep down into the soil. You’re checking to see if there is enough moisture down at the root level, not just on the surface. If it doesn’t feel moist, water them thoroughly, but be careful not to over water to avoid rotting the roots.
While you’re at it, do the same thing with any container plants out there on your porch or patio. Again, the best time to water is early in the morning.
Bath time for birdies
If you have a bird bath, be sure that it has fresh water and isn’t getting green and slimy. Apart from being an unhealthy environment for the birds, stagnant water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes. At the same time, make sure that tarps and wheelbarrows haven’t collected storm water creating a mini mosquito farm. Can you say West Nile Virus? I thought you could!
Remember, don’t be a hero! You won’t win a medal for working outside in the broiling sun until you drop. Go out early. Take a bottle of water with you. Work in short bursts. Don’t try to get everything done in one session.
Now go back inside and enjoy your air conditioning as you survey your landscape with a sense of real accomplishment. And remember the words of Scarlett O’Hara: “Tomorrow is another day!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Brown lawns giving you the Summer time blues?
The text of this column is largely based on The Plant Man, dated 07/20/03, a perennial favorite among readers. Here’s a second chance to see a classic column.
"There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime Blues." I heard that Eddie Cochran song on an oldies radio station this morning. I thought to myself, "It's the summertime BROWNS that bother most homeowners... at least when it comes to lawns!"
Every summer, I get calls or e-mails asking me what can be done to "cure" browned-out lawns. The bad news: To paraphrase Eddie, there pretty much "ain't no cure" for a lawn that's browned out from the summer weather conditions. The good news: It's not a disaster!
I'll explain that later in this column, but first let's think about some preventative measures that will keep your lawn from degenerating into a giant sheet of coconut matting. By the way, as this is a subject that comes up quite often, I suggest you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org where you will find an archive of these columns under "The Plant Man" heading, as well as several other helpful articles. You can also sign up for my free e-mailed newsletter if you wish.
So what can you do to maintain a healthy lawn until the cooler weather returns?
Mowing height adjustment is probably the most important practice to prepare lawns for hot weather, according to Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator at the University of Illinois Extension. He recommends that you mow at heights around three inches or slightly higher. If in doubt, set the mower as high as it will go. Lawns maintained at higher heights usually develop deeper roots and dry out slower than closely mowed turf. Lawn growth will slow as the weather gets drier and hotter. The complete article can be found at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortihints/0106b.html
and you can find a direct link to it from this "Plant Man" column at my Web site. The commonest lawn grasses in most areas are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue. As an act of self-preservation, these grasses tend to slow down their growth and go dormant during hot weather. If you wish to maintain a green lawn throughout the summer, you must make a commitment now to water throughout the summer!
If you don't believe me, here's some advice from the experts at the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. In particular, they tell us that you will need to follow a regular watering routine before the lawn begins to brown. Why? Because once the lawn goes dormant in mid-summer watering will not generally green it up until fall.
To keep the lawn green requires about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week, according to the folks at the Kemper Center. A sprinkler used on home lawns usually deliver from one-quarter to one-third inch per hour. It is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week than frequent light watering.
You can read the entire text at http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/hortline/messages/3209.shtml and, as always, there is a direct link from this column archived at my Web site.
Another reminder: I advise you to water early in the day. For one thing, it's more comfortable for you because it's cooler. But most important, watering early in the day appears to reduce disease occurrence.
But back to my statement at the beginning of this column. Generally speaking, it's not a disaster if your grass goes brown in the dry summer heat. Again, I want to emphasize that the brown color is an indication that the grass has gone dormant. This is nature's way of conserving energy until
such times as the grass can renew its growth in the cycle of life. Dormant and dead are not the same thing.
Let me know if you are having lawn problems or if you need advice or suggestions about any aspect of landscaping. I try to respond via e-mail within a day or so, and some questions will be featured in future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
"There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime Blues." I heard that Eddie Cochran song on an oldies radio station this morning. I thought to myself, "It's the summertime BROWNS that bother most homeowners... at least when it comes to lawns!"
Every summer, I get calls or e-mails asking me what can be done to "cure" browned-out lawns. The bad news: To paraphrase Eddie, there pretty much "ain't no cure" for a lawn that's browned out from the summer weather conditions. The good news: It's not a disaster!
I'll explain that later in this column, but first let's think about some preventative measures that will keep your lawn from degenerating into a giant sheet of coconut matting. By the way, as this is a subject that comes up quite often, I suggest you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org where you will find an archive of these columns under "The Plant Man" heading, as well as several other helpful articles. You can also sign up for my free e-mailed newsletter if you wish.
So what can you do to maintain a healthy lawn until the cooler weather returns?
Mowing height adjustment is probably the most important practice to prepare lawns for hot weather, according to Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator at the University of Illinois Extension. He recommends that you mow at heights around three inches or slightly higher. If in doubt, set the mower as high as it will go. Lawns maintained at higher heights usually develop deeper roots and dry out slower than closely mowed turf. Lawn growth will slow as the weather gets drier and hotter. The complete article can be found at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortihints/0106b.html
and you can find a direct link to it from this "Plant Man" column at my Web site. The commonest lawn grasses in most areas are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue. As an act of self-preservation, these grasses tend to slow down their growth and go dormant during hot weather. If you wish to maintain a green lawn throughout the summer, you must make a commitment now to water throughout the summer!
If you don't believe me, here's some advice from the experts at the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. In particular, they tell us that you will need to follow a regular watering routine before the lawn begins to brown. Why? Because once the lawn goes dormant in mid-summer watering will not generally green it up until fall.
To keep the lawn green requires about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week, according to the folks at the Kemper Center. A sprinkler used on home lawns usually deliver from one-quarter to one-third inch per hour. It is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week than frequent light watering.
You can read the entire text at http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/hortline/messages/3209.shtml and, as always, there is a direct link from this column archived at my Web site.
Another reminder: I advise you to water early in the day. For one thing, it's more comfortable for you because it's cooler. But most important, watering early in the day appears to reduce disease occurrence.
But back to my statement at the beginning of this column. Generally speaking, it's not a disaster if your grass goes brown in the dry summer heat. Again, I want to emphasize that the brown color is an indication that the grass has gone dormant. This is nature's way of conserving energy until
such times as the grass can renew its growth in the cycle of life. Dormant and dead are not the same thing.
Let me know if you are having lawn problems or if you need advice or suggestions about any aspect of landscaping. I try to respond via e-mail within a day or so, and some questions will be featured in future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 19, 2006
Ground cover and grass fight soil erosion on slopes
At this time of year, lawn problems seem to be top of mind with most garden enthusiasts. However, some problems can take on a more “personal” aspect, as you might guess from this first question:
QUESTION: “My husband and I are having a disagreement over planting on a sloping bank and retaining wall. He insists that it must have grass to prevent soil erosion (which obviously would have to be trimmed all the time). Please tell me if plantings hold the soil and if some particular groundcover or mulch should be used.” – Kay Ralph
ANSWER: Grass is always a good protection against soil erosion, as are other types of groundcover. However, what you actually plant can depend on a number of factors including the degree of slope, the soil type, whether the area is shaded or in partial or full sun and the plant hardiness zone you are in. All groundcover will hold soil to a great degree once established. If you contact me again, letting me know your USDA zone and some indication of the other variables, I can recommend some specific ground covers.
For anyone who is unsure of the USDA zone in which you live, simply drop me an e-mail with your zip code and I’ll respond with your zone. You can also go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and type USDA into the search window to see a full color plant hardiness map.
QUESTION: “I was hoping you could help me with two problems I have. First, I have some hostas in a row behind my patio in my back yard. I'm not sure what kind they are; the leaves are darker on the inside and lighter around the outside. Anyway, every year something eats a lot of holes in the leaves and they look terrible. Now I'm trying to grow bean plants in the same area and the same thing is happening to the leaves on those plants. Do you have any idea what is behind that and how to get rid of whatever is causing it?
“My other problem is that I have a lot of bare spots in my yard with no grass. I do have a lot of trees in my yard and have been told that, because I have so many trees, grass will not grow in certain areas of the yard. Is this true? I like having a lot of trees in my yard and don't want to cut them down if I don't have to. I have tried many different kinds of grass seed, shady, high-traffic and others. They seem to grow good at first then always die off. Is there any way to have a lot of trees and a yard of nice grass too? I hate the way the yard looks and really could use some help!” – Bill Freeman
ANSWER: The first problem sounds like snails. You can get rid of them using a product called Sluggo The active ingredient in Sluggo is iron phosphate so it is an organic compound that breaks down into fertilizer in your yard. There’s another product called Slug It! Concentrate. I use this myself in our garden with great results for hostas. If you need some shopping information for either product, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
As for the grass, a lot will depend on the soil and the types of grasses. Growing a decent lawn under shade trees is never easy! Of course, it is important to keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris. Here is a link to a site that I use on lawn questions. http://www.lawncare.com/
There are numerous helpful articles there, including one titled “How to seed bare spots and thin areas.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “My husband and I are having a disagreement over planting on a sloping bank and retaining wall. He insists that it must have grass to prevent soil erosion (which obviously would have to be trimmed all the time). Please tell me if plantings hold the soil and if some particular groundcover or mulch should be used.” – Kay Ralph
ANSWER: Grass is always a good protection against soil erosion, as are other types of groundcover. However, what you actually plant can depend on a number of factors including the degree of slope, the soil type, whether the area is shaded or in partial or full sun and the plant hardiness zone you are in. All groundcover will hold soil to a great degree once established. If you contact me again, letting me know your USDA zone and some indication of the other variables, I can recommend some specific ground covers.
For anyone who is unsure of the USDA zone in which you live, simply drop me an e-mail with your zip code and I’ll respond with your zone. You can also go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and type USDA into the search window to see a full color plant hardiness map.
QUESTION: “I was hoping you could help me with two problems I have. First, I have some hostas in a row behind my patio in my back yard. I'm not sure what kind they are; the leaves are darker on the inside and lighter around the outside. Anyway, every year something eats a lot of holes in the leaves and they look terrible. Now I'm trying to grow bean plants in the same area and the same thing is happening to the leaves on those plants. Do you have any idea what is behind that and how to get rid of whatever is causing it?
“My other problem is that I have a lot of bare spots in my yard with no grass. I do have a lot of trees in my yard and have been told that, because I have so many trees, grass will not grow in certain areas of the yard. Is this true? I like having a lot of trees in my yard and don't want to cut them down if I don't have to. I have tried many different kinds of grass seed, shady, high-traffic and others. They seem to grow good at first then always die off. Is there any way to have a lot of trees and a yard of nice grass too? I hate the way the yard looks and really could use some help!” – Bill Freeman
ANSWER: The first problem sounds like snails. You can get rid of them using a product called Sluggo The active ingredient in Sluggo is iron phosphate so it is an organic compound that breaks down into fertilizer in your yard. There’s another product called Slug It! Concentrate. I use this myself in our garden with great results for hostas. If you need some shopping information for either product, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
As for the grass, a lot will depend on the soil and the types of grasses. Growing a decent lawn under shade trees is never easy! Of course, it is important to keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris. Here is a link to a site that I use on lawn questions. http://www.lawncare.com/
There are numerous helpful articles there, including one titled “How to seed bare spots and thin areas.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 12, 2006
The green, green grass of home... without chemicals?
Is there really a way to maintain a lush, healthy, pest-free lawn without using risky pesticides? More and more natural gardening advocates are saying yes, it IS possible. If you have ever felt uneasy about using chemical pesticides, today’s column is a must-read!
Pesticides are, quite obviously, poisons intended to kill insects. However, most pesticides affect vital biological processes that are not unique to the target pests, according to an organization called the Safer Pest Control Project (SPCP), based in Chicago, Illinois. Pesticides can also be harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises that are part of a lawn’s natural defenses. Also affected are microorganisms, the little guys that break down organic matter that nourishes your soil.
Additionally, pets and children running barefoot on the lawn can track pesticides into the house where they adhere to carpets and furniture.
Pesticides are regulated by the EPA and are subject to rigorous testing. However, many concerned individuals and groups such as the SPCP advocate alternative ways to achieve healthy, pest-free lawns and soil.
You can download dozens of useful fact sheets about non-toxic care of lawns and gardens at http://www.spcpweb.org/yards/ and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with many other resources you might find helpful.
So what can you do if you are leery of chemical pesticides? Among the SPCP’s suggestions:
Water weekly
Don’t water your lawn daily. A deep, weekly watering encourages deep root growth for stronger grass that has less room for weeds.
Water early
Watering your lawn early in the morning allows the grass to dry before nightfall, lessening the likelihood of fungus that thrives in damp grass.
Mow correctly
Be sure you have sharp blades because dull blades rip the grass, weakening its defenses. Set the blades at a height of 3 inches as this will increase root strength and shade out many weeds.
Use organic fertilizers
Many commercial fertilizers can get washed away before the lawn can use the nitrogen, potentially polluting bodies of water.
Add clover
I can hear a lot of eyebrows snapping up. “Add clover? I’m trying to get rid of it!” The folks at SPCP recommend adding clover to your lawn. Reason? It’s drought-tolerant, immune to many diseases and “greens up” all summer. Additionally, it just might distract bunnies from nibbling on your perennials.
Natural fertilizers
Seek out natural fertilizers, such as corn gluten that can be an effective pre-emergent weed control. Here’s the part you didn’t want to hear: Get a sturdy weeding tool and go after the weeds, but do it for short periods on a regular basis, instead of trying to do it all at once. I would suggest that you make this an early-morning activity, before the sun starts baking your back.
Finally, says the SPCP, try not to focus so much on a totally green lawn; instead make it your goal to have a healthy lawn that will naturally resist drought and disease.
My personal opinion is that a naturally healthy soil is the best foundation for lawns and virtually all other plants. I like to use organically-based products such as Turf Tea Magic. You can probably find it online by searching via Google, or drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll forward you some information.
Correction: In a recent column titled “Vanishing bees: a problem for gardeners and farmers” there was a typographic error in the Web address for the Natural Resources Defense Council. The correct address is http://www.nrdc.org/OnEarth and it’s a great resource if you need to know more about bees and the dangers of diminishing bee population. My apologies for the error!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Pesticides are, quite obviously, poisons intended to kill insects. However, most pesticides affect vital biological processes that are not unique to the target pests, according to an organization called the Safer Pest Control Project (SPCP), based in Chicago, Illinois. Pesticides can also be harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises that are part of a lawn’s natural defenses. Also affected are microorganisms, the little guys that break down organic matter that nourishes your soil.
Additionally, pets and children running barefoot on the lawn can track pesticides into the house where they adhere to carpets and furniture.
Pesticides are regulated by the EPA and are subject to rigorous testing. However, many concerned individuals and groups such as the SPCP advocate alternative ways to achieve healthy, pest-free lawns and soil.
You can download dozens of useful fact sheets about non-toxic care of lawns and gardens at http://www.spcpweb.org/yards/ and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with many other resources you might find helpful.
So what can you do if you are leery of chemical pesticides? Among the SPCP’s suggestions:
Water weekly
Don’t water your lawn daily. A deep, weekly watering encourages deep root growth for stronger grass that has less room for weeds.
Water early
Watering your lawn early in the morning allows the grass to dry before nightfall, lessening the likelihood of fungus that thrives in damp grass.
Mow correctly
Be sure you have sharp blades because dull blades rip the grass, weakening its defenses. Set the blades at a height of 3 inches as this will increase root strength and shade out many weeds.
Use organic fertilizers
Many commercial fertilizers can get washed away before the lawn can use the nitrogen, potentially polluting bodies of water.
Add clover
I can hear a lot of eyebrows snapping up. “Add clover? I’m trying to get rid of it!” The folks at SPCP recommend adding clover to your lawn. Reason? It’s drought-tolerant, immune to many diseases and “greens up” all summer. Additionally, it just might distract bunnies from nibbling on your perennials.
Natural fertilizers
Seek out natural fertilizers, such as corn gluten that can be an effective pre-emergent weed control. Here’s the part you didn’t want to hear: Get a sturdy weeding tool and go after the weeds, but do it for short periods on a regular basis, instead of trying to do it all at once. I would suggest that you make this an early-morning activity, before the sun starts baking your back.
Finally, says the SPCP, try not to focus so much on a totally green lawn; instead make it your goal to have a healthy lawn that will naturally resist drought and disease.
My personal opinion is that a naturally healthy soil is the best foundation for lawns and virtually all other plants. I like to use organically-based products such as Turf Tea Magic. You can probably find it online by searching via Google, or drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll forward you some information.
Correction: In a recent column titled “Vanishing bees: a problem for gardeners and farmers” there was a typographic error in the Web address for the Natural Resources Defense Council. The correct address is http://www.nrdc.org/OnEarth and it’s a great resource if you need to know more about bees and the dangers of diminishing bee population. My apologies for the error!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Meet the beetles. And say goodbye to them!
If you are having problems with certain kinds of beetles who are uninvited guests in your landscape, you’ll want to read these two recent e-mails from readers.
QUESTION: “I am hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem I am seeing this year with my lily plants. I have many lilies around my home in New England of different varieties. Many of these are being eaten by what I believe is a Lily Leaf Beetle. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these little pests from doing further damage to my plants? I have heard that Bayer Rose and Flower spray can help with this problem.” – Lynn
ANSWER: Yes, the Bayer rose spray would work but you may want to try an organic remedy. I have a friend who sprayed his plants with a sugar water mixture (spray bottle with water and enough sugar added that will dissolve and stay in solution.) The beetles will eat the sugar but cannot digest it. After gorging themselves they will fly off to die. Just a thought that may work.
> From one type of beetle to another. Recently, I received the following
e-mail with a comment about an answer I’d given in a previous Plant Man column.
“Just wanted to comment on your reply to the question regarding Japanese beetles attacking linden trees. Your suggestion to use the peaches in a milk jug is very similar to other Japanese Beetle traps (Bag-a-bug) which use pheromones to lure the beetles. However, these traps do more harm than good in my opinion unless you place them far, far away from the plants they're intended to protect. They lure more than they catch.
“The best approach is to apply Milky Spore to turf grass in the surrounding areas where the beetle grubs reside. As the grubs are infected, they decompose and release billions of new spores which eventually results in long term control of the Japanese beetle problem. Our community is currently implementing a plan to treat all common areas and encourage all residents to treat their yards. In the interim, there are various insecticides if you're not opposed to chemicals (such as Bayer Advanced) that can be watered into the soil at the base of the tree and once absorbed move up through the tree to provide protection against Japanese beetles.” – Jasmine Jensen
ANSWER: Thank you for your suggestion, Jasmine. I’d like to learn more about what your community is doing in this regard. For readers who are not familiar with Milky Spore, you can find some very useful information online at a Web site hosted by the USDA titled “Managing the Japanese Beetle.” The address is http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html but the easiest way to get there is to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org and you can click on a direct link.
According to the USDA site, Milky Spore is the common name for spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This bacterium was first registered for use on turf in suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United States in 1948.
Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub's gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.
Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2-4 years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, and die, each releasing 1-2 billion spores back into the soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development of large beetle populations.
As Jasmine has discovered, it works best when applied in community-wide treatment programs. If you think you have a Japanese beetle problem, you’ll find an enormous amount of information at the USDA site I mentioned. They have also included a list of “best” and “worst” plants to have in your yard if Japanese beetles are a matter of concern. Check with your extension agent regarding the availability of Milky Spore material.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I am hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem I am seeing this year with my lily plants. I have many lilies around my home in New England of different varieties. Many of these are being eaten by what I believe is a Lily Leaf Beetle. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these little pests from doing further damage to my plants? I have heard that Bayer Rose and Flower spray can help with this problem.” – Lynn
ANSWER: Yes, the Bayer rose spray would work but you may want to try an organic remedy. I have a friend who sprayed his plants with a sugar water mixture (spray bottle with water and enough sugar added that will dissolve and stay in solution.) The beetles will eat the sugar but cannot digest it. After gorging themselves they will fly off to die. Just a thought that may work.
> From one type of beetle to another. Recently, I received the following
e-mail with a comment about an answer I’d given in a previous Plant Man column.
“Just wanted to comment on your reply to the question regarding Japanese beetles attacking linden trees. Your suggestion to use the peaches in a milk jug is very similar to other Japanese Beetle traps (Bag-a-bug) which use pheromones to lure the beetles. However, these traps do more harm than good in my opinion unless you place them far, far away from the plants they're intended to protect. They lure more than they catch.
“The best approach is to apply Milky Spore to turf grass in the surrounding areas where the beetle grubs reside. As the grubs are infected, they decompose and release billions of new spores which eventually results in long term control of the Japanese beetle problem. Our community is currently implementing a plan to treat all common areas and encourage all residents to treat their yards. In the interim, there are various insecticides if you're not opposed to chemicals (such as Bayer Advanced) that can be watered into the soil at the base of the tree and once absorbed move up through the tree to provide protection against Japanese beetles.” – Jasmine Jensen
ANSWER: Thank you for your suggestion, Jasmine. I’d like to learn more about what your community is doing in this regard. For readers who are not familiar with Milky Spore, you can find some very useful information online at a Web site hosted by the USDA titled “Managing the Japanese Beetle.” The address is http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html but the easiest way to get there is to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org and you can click on a direct link.
According to the USDA site, Milky Spore is the common name for spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This bacterium was first registered for use on turf in suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United States in 1948.
Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub's gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.
Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2-4 years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, and die, each releasing 1-2 billion spores back into the soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development of large beetle populations.
As Jasmine has discovered, it works best when applied in community-wide treatment programs. If you think you have a Japanese beetle problem, you’ll find an enormous amount of information at the USDA site I mentioned. They have also included a list of “best” and “worst” plants to have in your yard if Japanese beetles are a matter of concern. Check with your extension agent regarding the availability of Milky Spore material.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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