Don’t be tempted to go for “instant landscaping.” That’s the message in this comment from a reader and the response to him from my wife, Cheryl:
COMMENT: “3 years ago we moved to a new house on a 25 acre lot. I am sure it will take us years to figure out what we are going to do with it all. However, 2 years ago we planted our first plants. My neighbor mocked me and said, “Nice sticks,” and would yell over the fence…”Gee…I think your trees are growing!” and then laugh. Having lived on a much smaller lot, the thought of planting “sticks” would have never occurred to us. But with so much area to cover, we thought…”what the heck, let’s try it” so I ignored her remarks.
Now, two years later, my weeping willows are taller than me and my Carolina Spice bushes and Burning Bushes are growing beautifully. So now I wonder, why did I ever spend $30 on a plant that I could grow myself in 2 years for $5 each! I used to be all about instant gratification – but now find the gratification is quadrupled when you watch it grow from a seedling!” – Paul W.
ANSWER: Thank you so much for your note. Only a small portion of homeowners have the financial ability to install instant landscaping and, chances are, they have a knowledgeable person who regularly cares for those plants. Not all of us have nor want that advantage.
My thoughts are that a landscape should take years to grow into itself. Just as you and your family are new to your home and property, you should take the time (be that several years) to live on the property and see how its uses develop. Hasty planting only to get something in the ground often leads to a change of mind a couple of years later. The different ways you and your family will use your property will reveal themselves over time. I always encourage people to take that time to find out. – Cheryl Jones
Your comments and questions are always welcome. Drop an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll do my best to get a personal response back to you. I often include some of those Q&As in this column.
QUESTION: “I have just purchased some Rosa Hansen Hedge Roses. I am interested in using these hedge roses to conceal an existing chain link fence. The site directions state to plant 12” - 24" apart but my question is how far from an existing fence? Can you help?” – Maura
ANSWER: “In order to give them enough room to grow and not be an issue with your neighbor in the future, I would place them at least 2 feet from the fence. That will give them a four foot area in which to grow.
QUESTION: “We have two weeping cherry trees (used to be three) near full grown. They are blooming, but very poorly this year. Any suggestions as why this might be, and what we can do to produce more blooms next year?” – Kathryne
ANSWER: Weather affects the blooming of most early spring flowering trees such as flowering cherry and flowering pear trees. It is quite likely that, with the flip-floppy weather that has been going on in many parts of the U.S., the trees experienced a cool weather snap just after the buds began to form. It's the most common reason as to why they lose their blooms or don't bloom as pretty as in other years. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can do about the weather!
QUESTION: “I have black fountain grass. How do I solve the problem of it reseeding itself?” – Rosie
ANSWER: The best way, when it begins to go to seed, is to cut the seed pods off before they can disperse. The other way is to put down an herbicide that prevents seed from germinating during the growing months.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Wednesday, April 04, 2007
“Old Fashioned” plants appeal to modern tastes
What once was old is new again. That’s a saying that can certainly be applied to the world of plants. Quite often a specific plant becomes almost universally popular. As soon as it can be seen in almost every garden, there’s a backlash and the once-popular plant drops out of the Top Forty, so to speak.
But then, a new generation of gardeners and landscapers rediscover the plant and it enjoys a resurgence of popularity.
Just such a plant is Dicentra spectabilis, also known as Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart.
In case you haven’t seen it recently, here’s a reminder. It is named for the dangling, pink and white, heart-shaped blooms that burst forth in a profusion in spring, dying back somewhat in the heat of mid summer, although the blooms last longer in locations where there is ample shade.
This is a hardy little guy, tolerating the cold as well as the sun, topping out at no more than two feet tall with attractive grey-green foliage. If you plant it in shady areas, it does well alongside hostas and ferns. Bleeding Heart is one “Old Fashioned” plant that deserves its modern day revival.
And now to a couple more questions from readers. My wife Cheryl fielded the first one about plants that attract birds.
QUESTION: “The hot, dry summers where we live make it a challenge for me to decide what to plant. We have a few crape myrtles, and Japanese boxwoods that line our privacy fence. Dull, eh? I enjoy the birds and would love to establish a sanctuary in the corner of our back yard. The clay soil and sun are forces to contend with. Any suggestions for creating something as an attractive haven for the birds?” – Kim Renee Keck
ANSWER: Most birds are going to be attracted to plants that produce food and berries over winter. These include: Dogwoods, Rosa rugosas, Serviceberry, Viburnums and ornamental grasses.
Of course, raspberry and blackberry plants fruit during the summer and birds love them. Hummingbirds are attracted to brightly colored flowering plants such as the crape myrtles, buddleias, clethra, herbs (sage, oregano, basil, thyme) and geraniums. Adding a bird feeder with tasty seed blends is always a welcome sight during winter and bird houses are not only visually attractive, but tell the birds to come in and stay awhile. I hope this gives you a few ideas.
QUESTION: “I bought some royal ferns last year, but wasn't aware at that time that they need acid soil. Even though they were planted in shade and kept very moist, they didn't make it (but I am sure that is because I have the wrong soil type). I was wondering if there are any ferns that do well in somewhat alkaline soil?” – Jennifer Bonnett
ANSWER: Most all ferns will prefer soils with a high organic content. You may want to dig an area out and fill it back with only aged compost, aged manure or other organic matter in which to plant the ferns and then top with mulch. They need shaded areas that have drained soil. It is possible that the moisture didn't drain properly and the fern rhizomes rotted. Check the ferns regularly. You only want the soil to be cool and moist, but not damp or wet.
QUESTION: “I have double mock bushes that have not blossomed in five years… never, for that matter. Any suggestions?” – Debbie Andrews
ANSWER: I can think of a couple of things to check on. The doubles typically need to be in total full sun and they do seem to do better in more of a poor soil. Remember that the use of too much fertilizer will encourage leaf growth, but not flowers. You might want to cut out the old growth and any dead canes to get more sunlight into the center of the plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
But then, a new generation of gardeners and landscapers rediscover the plant and it enjoys a resurgence of popularity.
Just such a plant is Dicentra spectabilis, also known as Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart.
In case you haven’t seen it recently, here’s a reminder. It is named for the dangling, pink and white, heart-shaped blooms that burst forth in a profusion in spring, dying back somewhat in the heat of mid summer, although the blooms last longer in locations where there is ample shade.
This is a hardy little guy, tolerating the cold as well as the sun, topping out at no more than two feet tall with attractive grey-green foliage. If you plant it in shady areas, it does well alongside hostas and ferns. Bleeding Heart is one “Old Fashioned” plant that deserves its modern day revival.
And now to a couple more questions from readers. My wife Cheryl fielded the first one about plants that attract birds.
QUESTION: “The hot, dry summers where we live make it a challenge for me to decide what to plant. We have a few crape myrtles, and Japanese boxwoods that line our privacy fence. Dull, eh? I enjoy the birds and would love to establish a sanctuary in the corner of our back yard. The clay soil and sun are forces to contend with. Any suggestions for creating something as an attractive haven for the birds?” – Kim Renee Keck
ANSWER: Most birds are going to be attracted to plants that produce food and berries over winter. These include: Dogwoods, Rosa rugosas, Serviceberry, Viburnums and ornamental grasses.
Of course, raspberry and blackberry plants fruit during the summer and birds love them. Hummingbirds are attracted to brightly colored flowering plants such as the crape myrtles, buddleias, clethra, herbs (sage, oregano, basil, thyme) and geraniums. Adding a bird feeder with tasty seed blends is always a welcome sight during winter and bird houses are not only visually attractive, but tell the birds to come in and stay awhile. I hope this gives you a few ideas.
QUESTION: “I bought some royal ferns last year, but wasn't aware at that time that they need acid soil. Even though they were planted in shade and kept very moist, they didn't make it (but I am sure that is because I have the wrong soil type). I was wondering if there are any ferns that do well in somewhat alkaline soil?” – Jennifer Bonnett
ANSWER: Most all ferns will prefer soils with a high organic content. You may want to dig an area out and fill it back with only aged compost, aged manure or other organic matter in which to plant the ferns and then top with mulch. They need shaded areas that have drained soil. It is possible that the moisture didn't drain properly and the fern rhizomes rotted. Check the ferns regularly. You only want the soil to be cool and moist, but not damp or wet.
QUESTION: “I have double mock bushes that have not blossomed in five years… never, for that matter. Any suggestions?” – Debbie Andrews
ANSWER: I can think of a couple of things to check on. The doubles typically need to be in total full sun and they do seem to do better in more of a poor soil. Remember that the use of too much fertilizer will encourage leaf growth, but not flowers. You might want to cut out the old growth and any dead canes to get more sunlight into the center of the plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Creeping fig needs foothold to climb wall
QUESTION: “We planted creeping fig all along our back wall which is cement (in the shape of bricks), not smooth, kind of bumpy...but the fig is not doing well in grabbing onto the walls and climbing. The only places they are climbing up are along the wooden posts that are about 10-12 feet apart on the wall. We want the fig to climb all over the wall. Any ideas as to what we can do to encourage this?” – Debbie P.
ANSWER: From time to time, I have seen a type of wire frame pictured in some garden magazines. However I have always thought one could craft the same thing using wire and attaching some of the points to the concrete wall with bolts that go into the concrete to secure the structure.
You might want to check with your hardware store to see if they have a ready-made product you can use. If not, consider creating your own DIY version of a faux lattice on the concrete wall for the fig to attach itself to. Once the fig has begun to climb, the wire rack should be virtually invisible. Send me a photo of the finished project at steve@landsteward.org We’re always looking for creative ideas to pass on to visitors to the Web site!
QUESTION: “Last spring we planted 4 evergreen wisteria to grow up on our daughter’s arbor. It did beautifully all summer and in the fall it had blooms. However, now it looks dead. Will this come back this spring? If so, should the wisteria be cut back this spring, or will the new growth appear on what is already there?” – Pam and John Barrett
ANSWER: From what you tell me, I’d say it is just dormant. We have wisteria growing on a pergola in our garden and it has to go through this rest period.
As for cutting it back, it would depend on how unruly it is at this point. The best time to cut it back and still get blooms in the spring is in January or early February, so the optimum time has passed.
You may want to also try something that I do: dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water and apply a gallon to the base of each of the plants. Then do this once again in the spring just before the leaves begin to appear. This will cause it to bloom more this next year.
Remember that when you apply fertilizer, you increase foliage and top growth. The Epsom salts retard the growth initially and cause it to bloom and the blooms eventually turn into seed pods in the fall.
Not long ago in this column, there was a question from a reader whose home was being invaded by ladybugs that were not exactly ladybugs. An alert reader, A. Wilson in North Carolina, thought I might like to share the information on that subject found at this Web site: http://www.pestproducts.net/ladybugs.htm
As the site points out, there is a big difference between the "garden variety" ladybug and the Asian Lady Beetle. We are all familiar with the ladybug, considered to be a "good guy" since it feeds on garden pests such as aphids. The Asian Lady Beetle poses problems that were unforeseen when they were first introduced in the United States as a biological pest management tool.
This particular lady beetle differs in that it turns to our homes for shelter, invading living areas in very large numbers. When first noticed, mechanical removal can often suffice as beetle pest control. Small numbers can be captured and released outdoors where they can continue to protect our plants from aphids. When the number of lady beetles in a home becomes high, vacuuming will be your best bet, according to the Web site.
Asian lady beetles are beneficial landscape inhabitants are only a nuisance when they move in to your home in large numbers. They are not poisonous or harmful to humans.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: From time to time, I have seen a type of wire frame pictured in some garden magazines. However I have always thought one could craft the same thing using wire and attaching some of the points to the concrete wall with bolts that go into the concrete to secure the structure.
You might want to check with your hardware store to see if they have a ready-made product you can use. If not, consider creating your own DIY version of a faux lattice on the concrete wall for the fig to attach itself to. Once the fig has begun to climb, the wire rack should be virtually invisible. Send me a photo of the finished project at steve@landsteward.org We’re always looking for creative ideas to pass on to visitors to the Web site!
QUESTION: “Last spring we planted 4 evergreen wisteria to grow up on our daughter’s arbor. It did beautifully all summer and in the fall it had blooms. However, now it looks dead. Will this come back this spring? If so, should the wisteria be cut back this spring, or will the new growth appear on what is already there?” – Pam and John Barrett
ANSWER: From what you tell me, I’d say it is just dormant. We have wisteria growing on a pergola in our garden and it has to go through this rest period.
As for cutting it back, it would depend on how unruly it is at this point. The best time to cut it back and still get blooms in the spring is in January or early February, so the optimum time has passed.
You may want to also try something that I do: dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water and apply a gallon to the base of each of the plants. Then do this once again in the spring just before the leaves begin to appear. This will cause it to bloom more this next year.
Remember that when you apply fertilizer, you increase foliage and top growth. The Epsom salts retard the growth initially and cause it to bloom and the blooms eventually turn into seed pods in the fall.
Not long ago in this column, there was a question from a reader whose home was being invaded by ladybugs that were not exactly ladybugs. An alert reader, A. Wilson in North Carolina, thought I might like to share the information on that subject found at this Web site: http://www.pestproducts.net/ladybugs.htm
As the site points out, there is a big difference between the "garden variety" ladybug and the Asian Lady Beetle. We are all familiar with the ladybug, considered to be a "good guy" since it feeds on garden pests such as aphids. The Asian Lady Beetle poses problems that were unforeseen when they were first introduced in the United States as a biological pest management tool.
This particular lady beetle differs in that it turns to our homes for shelter, invading living areas in very large numbers. When first noticed, mechanical removal can often suffice as beetle pest control. Small numbers can be captured and released outdoors where they can continue to protect our plants from aphids. When the number of lady beetles in a home becomes high, vacuuming will be your best bet, according to the Web site.
Asian lady beetles are beneficial landscape inhabitants are only a nuisance when they move in to your home in large numbers. They are not poisonous or harmful to humans.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Garden tools can make outdoors more fun, less tiring
If there’s anything that garden lovers enjoy almost as much as plants, then it’s finding new garden tools and gadgets.
Today, I’ll feature some products that might make your time outdoors less arduous and more enjoyable. Cheryl and I are already using some of them around our own landscape or at the nursery. Maybe one or two will be just what you’ve been looking for!
Tractor Seat on Wheels
Well, the name of this one says it all: it’s a tractor seat on wheels. This has become one of our favorite products because it saves all that wear and tear on our knees and backs. Now if there’s a job that would normally require squatting, stooping or kneeling, we pull this guy out of the barn and off we go.
The tractor seat rotates 360 degrees and there’s a garden caddy tray underneath it that holds hand tools and gloves, etc. It looks so funky with its big ol’ 8 inch wheels that your kids might actually volunteer to weed the flower beds. Or maybe not.
If you can’t find a product I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll try to help.
Flat Stack self winding hose
If you hate untangling a knotted pile of garden hose or if you’re tired of winding it back onto its storage reel when you’re through watering, this might be what you need. It’s a 50 foot, half-inch hose that stretches out for use like a regular hose then simply retracts itself back into a perfect pancake-shaped circle when you’ve finished using it.
It’s a bit more expensive than a “normal” hose, but you won’t need a hose reel and it might save you a lot of sweat and under-the-breath cursing. The Flat Stack is UV and weather-resistant and should last years longer than those leaky cheapo hoses most of us have lurking somewhere in the garage.
Rain Bird Time-Release Water We haven’t tried this one yet but it certainly looks useful. Essentially, it’s water bound in the form of a solid gel that slowly converts back into water over time, sending water and nutrients from the soil to a plant’s roots over a period of 30 days or more.
Time-Release Water comes in plastic packages that are the size and shape of a 12 ounce tube of bulk sausage. Slit the “sausage,” lay it cut-side down on moist soil next to the plant stem, cover with some topsoil and it will gradually release the water that is suspended in the gel.
It costs around $1.99 per 9 oz tube and is available at most home and garden centers. If you are planning to go on vacation this summer, a few of these around your shrubs or in your container gardens might relieve you of water worries while you’re away.
Black & Decker Cordless Cultivator If you hate weeding or turning over soil in flowerbeds with a shovel or a hoe, this could be the tool you’re looking for. Don’t confuse it with a rotary tiller. It isn’t intended to cut through hard-packed sod. But it’s a good option if you need to loosen dirt for planting, aerate soil or get in and around plants without damaging them while getting at the roots of most weeds.
Because it’s cordless, it can go anywhere, using the same interchangeable 18V power pack that drives several other Black & Decker cordless power tools.
Liquid Net Insect Repellent
Cheryl and I have tried just about every spray and lotion on the market. The ones with DEET are effective, but that’s a chemical that can be absorbed through the skin and has been linked to neurological damage. We came across Liquid Net and we use it because it’s DEET-free, safe for children, has all-natural ingredients and it actually smells pretty good.
There’s even a version called Liquid Net for Pets that repels ticks and fleas without any harmful or dangerous chemicals.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Today, I’ll feature some products that might make your time outdoors less arduous and more enjoyable. Cheryl and I are already using some of them around our own landscape or at the nursery. Maybe one or two will be just what you’ve been looking for!
Tractor Seat on Wheels
Well, the name of this one says it all: it’s a tractor seat on wheels. This has become one of our favorite products because it saves all that wear and tear on our knees and backs. Now if there’s a job that would normally require squatting, stooping or kneeling, we pull this guy out of the barn and off we go.
The tractor seat rotates 360 degrees and there’s a garden caddy tray underneath it that holds hand tools and gloves, etc. It looks so funky with its big ol’ 8 inch wheels that your kids might actually volunteer to weed the flower beds. Or maybe not.
If you can’t find a product I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll try to help.
Flat Stack self winding hose
If you hate untangling a knotted pile of garden hose or if you’re tired of winding it back onto its storage reel when you’re through watering, this might be what you need. It’s a 50 foot, half-inch hose that stretches out for use like a regular hose then simply retracts itself back into a perfect pancake-shaped circle when you’ve finished using it.
It’s a bit more expensive than a “normal” hose, but you won’t need a hose reel and it might save you a lot of sweat and under-the-breath cursing. The Flat Stack is UV and weather-resistant and should last years longer than those leaky cheapo hoses most of us have lurking somewhere in the garage.
Rain Bird Time-Release Water We haven’t tried this one yet but it certainly looks useful. Essentially, it’s water bound in the form of a solid gel that slowly converts back into water over time, sending water and nutrients from the soil to a plant’s roots over a period of 30 days or more.
Time-Release Water comes in plastic packages that are the size and shape of a 12 ounce tube of bulk sausage. Slit the “sausage,” lay it cut-side down on moist soil next to the plant stem, cover with some topsoil and it will gradually release the water that is suspended in the gel.
It costs around $1.99 per 9 oz tube and is available at most home and garden centers. If you are planning to go on vacation this summer, a few of these around your shrubs or in your container gardens might relieve you of water worries while you’re away.
Black & Decker Cordless Cultivator If you hate weeding or turning over soil in flowerbeds with a shovel or a hoe, this could be the tool you’re looking for. Don’t confuse it with a rotary tiller. It isn’t intended to cut through hard-packed sod. But it’s a good option if you need to loosen dirt for planting, aerate soil or get in and around plants without damaging them while getting at the roots of most weeds.
Because it’s cordless, it can go anywhere, using the same interchangeable 18V power pack that drives several other Black & Decker cordless power tools.
Liquid Net Insect Repellent
Cheryl and I have tried just about every spray and lotion on the market. The ones with DEET are effective, but that’s a chemical that can be absorbed through the skin and has been linked to neurological damage. We came across Liquid Net and we use it because it’s DEET-free, safe for children, has all-natural ingredients and it actually smells pretty good.
There’s even a version called Liquid Net for Pets that repels ticks and fleas without any harmful or dangerous chemicals.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
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