“Pesky bees!”
If you’ve ever said that as you swat away some critter flying around your face, the chances are that it isn’t really a bee at all. In fact, it’s more likely to be a yellow jacket, a hornet or a wasp. Domestic honey bees are relatively non-aggressive and, most important, are vital to the successful pollination of the plants in our gardens and a great deal more.
But it seems the humble bee could be in danger, according to an article in the Summer 2006 edition of OnEarth, the environmental magazine published quarterly by the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC).
The article, by author Sharon Levy, suggests that domesticated honeybees and their native counterparts, on which the nation depends to pollinate billions of dollars worth of fruits, vegetable and other crops, are disappearing thanks to pesticide use on crops and gardens and the destruction of their habitats.
Experts interviewed for the OnEarth article (“The Vanishing Bee”) blame the widespread use of pesticides by farmers who unintentionally poison domesticated honeybee colonies. Non-native species of parasitic mites are also deadly to honeybees.
For these reasons, claims the author, native wild bees will become even more important as pollinators, but they too are threatened because their habitats—natural woodlands, shrubs and flowers—have been decimated by relentless sprawl and development and by modern agriculture’s poor land-management practices.
One-third of the food Americans eat comes from crops that are pollinated by bees or other creatures, including butterflies, birds and bats, according to the article.
Without bees, many of the foods we enjoy – tomatoes, squash, peppers, apples and pears, for example – could disappear from our tables. Domesticated honeybees, in particular, are in steep decline. In the 1940s, American beekeepers had about 5 million colonies. Today, their colonies number about 2.3 million – and falling – while the demand for their services is increasing.
If you’d like to know more about this subject, go to http://www.hrdc.org/OnEarth and find “The Vanishing Bee” header. You can also click on a direct link when you go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under The Plant Man heading.
Doug Barasch, editor in chief of OnEarth describes bees as “the canaries in the coal mines,” because their potential demise is a warning to farmers and gardeners. But all is not lost (at least not yet) and the article recommends a number of solutions. These include limiting the use of chemical pesticides and setting aside space for plants that nurture bees.
Regular readers of this column know that, wherever possible, I recommend the use of organic solutions to garden and landscape problems. The declining bee population is just one more indication that ‘going organic’ isn’t just something of interest to aging hippies and “tree huggers”!
By the way, if you’re concerned about the potential incursion of so-called “Africanized” aggressive bees, most experts believe that the continued maintenance of a thriving domestic honeybee population is our best defense.
But what about the real pests?
If you are having a problem with hornets and yellow jackets, you’d probably like some advice on what you should do about them. One highly practical article, written by the experts at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension can be found at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/horn-yj.htm and because it’s such a long address, you might prefer to click on a direct link from this column at my Web site.
Among the defensive suggestions: coat the landing areas of hummingbird feeders with petroleum jelly vapor chest rub to keep the yellow jackets away. Also, make sure trash cans are kept covered at all times.
The article describes how – as a last resort – you can destroy a colony, but suggests you might be better just to let the critters die out naturally in the late fall, unless the nest is dangerously close to your home or garden.
Your comments, suggestions and questions are always welcome, and I’m happy to offer personal suggestions for any landscape or garden problems you’re having... hopefully NOT bee stings!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Friday, June 23, 2006
New Large Tree Roots Need Deep Watering
Many readers have contacted me regarding bug problems with their trees and I’ll get to a couple of recent bug-related questions in a minute. But first, a reader sent me an e-mail with a question about how best to water her new trees.
QUESTION: “HELP.....We have just planted some 12 foot Glory Maples and some 6 foot Norway Spruce. How much should water do they need? 2 gallons, 5 gallons, 15 gallons?? per day, every other day? per week? The trees are planted in Fairfax Virginia and our soil is clay and rocks...also how soon before we feed them and what do you suggest feeding them? Thank you for any help you can offer.” – Ann S.
ANSWER: I use a device called a Ross root feeder spike apparatus that you should be able to pick up at a garden center or hardware store. This is a spike that attaches to your hose and comes with watering instructions. I would deep water my trees every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season, using this Ross feeder.
Simply standing by your trees and spraying them with a hose or using a lawn sprinkler will not get down to the roots where the water is needed. If you deep water the roots every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season you will be fine until fall. Fertilizing these trees can be done at any time. If you’re using the feeder, you can buy fertilizer tabs that dissolve and go right to the roots through the feeder.
If you decide not to use a root feeder, try a time-release triple-13 fertilizer or something comparable. Use about ½ to 1 cup around the base of the tree but come out about 14 to 16” from the trunk.
QUESTION: Several years ago I bought 25 hybrid poplar. Within 1 and 1/2 years they grew 15 ft tall and were just beautiful, but this year they got holes going in a circle half way up looking like a woodpecker had got at them. They leaved out beautifully half way up the tree, however the rest of the buds on the tree did not open although they are not dead. We put some kind of
tree paint from our nursery that was black and the holes (which I think are due to some kind of borer) have stopped moving up.
My question is what do we do with the 5ft of bare tree in the middle? Do we cut it or leave for the tree to recover... or will it? Any help you can give us would be appreciated as we do not want to lose our beautiful trees as they line our 4 acre property. We live up in the middle of the mountains and people always stop to admire our trees. – Roberta W.
ANSWER: Don’t despair! This should be fairly simple. You need to cut out the dead section
down to the green wood. Once the dead is removed the tree will start a process of putting on more top growth. Send a picture through email if you can.
QUESTION: “What is the best what to rid my trees of bagworms?” – John D
ANSWER: The first thing you have to do when you see them is to clip them off the branches, put in a bag and take them somewhere to burn them. Afterwards you need to spray the plants with an insecticide, such as Monterey Garden Insect Spray, about once every 30 to 45 days. Usually, you’ll only need to do this two times per growing season. Follow the direction on the bottle to make sure your particular plants are okay with the chemical.
QUESTION: “HELP.....We have just planted some 12 foot Glory Maples and some 6 foot Norway Spruce. How much should water do they need? 2 gallons, 5 gallons, 15 gallons?? per day, every other day? per week? The trees are planted in Fairfax Virginia and our soil is clay and rocks...also how soon before we feed them and what do you suggest feeding them? Thank you for any help you can offer.” – Ann S.
ANSWER: I use a device called a Ross root feeder spike apparatus that you should be able to pick up at a garden center or hardware store. This is a spike that attaches to your hose and comes with watering instructions. I would deep water my trees every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season, using this Ross feeder.
Simply standing by your trees and spraying them with a hose or using a lawn sprinkler will not get down to the roots where the water is needed. If you deep water the roots every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season you will be fine until fall. Fertilizing these trees can be done at any time. If you’re using the feeder, you can buy fertilizer tabs that dissolve and go right to the roots through the feeder.
If you decide not to use a root feeder, try a time-release triple-13 fertilizer or something comparable. Use about ½ to 1 cup around the base of the tree but come out about 14 to 16” from the trunk.
QUESTION: Several years ago I bought 25 hybrid poplar. Within 1 and 1/2 years they grew 15 ft tall and were just beautiful, but this year they got holes going in a circle half way up looking like a woodpecker had got at them. They leaved out beautifully half way up the tree, however the rest of the buds on the tree did not open although they are not dead. We put some kind of
tree paint from our nursery that was black and the holes (which I think are due to some kind of borer) have stopped moving up.
My question is what do we do with the 5ft of bare tree in the middle? Do we cut it or leave for the tree to recover... or will it? Any help you can give us would be appreciated as we do not want to lose our beautiful trees as they line our 4 acre property. We live up in the middle of the mountains and people always stop to admire our trees. – Roberta W.
ANSWER: Don’t despair! This should be fairly simple. You need to cut out the dead section
down to the green wood. Once the dead is removed the tree will start a process of putting on more top growth. Send a picture through email if you can.
QUESTION: “What is the best what to rid my trees of bagworms?” – John D
ANSWER: The first thing you have to do when you see them is to clip them off the branches, put in a bag and take them somewhere to burn them. Afterwards you need to spray the plants with an insecticide, such as Monterey Garden Insect Spray, about once every 30 to 45 days. Usually, you’ll only need to do this two times per growing season. Follow the direction on the bottle to make sure your particular plants are okay with the chemical.
Wednesday, June 14, 2006
Turn wet land into spectacular bog garden
If a certain area of your landscape looks like the Okefenokee swamp, don’t throw in the towel (or anything else, either). Mother Nature has handed you a great opportunity: build your own bog garden!
Where to begin? Obviously, you’ll want to select a site that is low-lying so that moisture will naturally gravitate towards it. If you have a natural ‘basin’ with soil that consists mainly of clay, you probably won’t need much more than a trickle of water to maintain sufficient moisture. At last! A good reason for clay soil!
However, in most cases – particularly when the soil has fairly good drainage – you’ll want to excavate your site somewhat. The depth of the initial excavation should be between one and two feet.
As for the outline of the bog garden, use the old landscaper’s trick: lay a rope or a garden hose on the ground roughly in the desired shape, then move it in or out until you get the exact outline you want. Use a fork or spade to go around the perimeter making the initial cuts, following the rope or hose. Dig down to the soil to the desired depth, piling the soil on a tarp to protect the surrounding lawn.
Now this is where bog garden enthusiasts fall into two different camps: those who like to line the bottom of the excavated hole and those who prefer to use purely ‘natural’ materials.
One proponent of the ‘natural’ style suggests spreading a little clay as the base of your excavation. Over this, add a five-inch layer of rubble or large stones, then fill to a couple of inches below the adjacent grade level with a mixture of half loam and half leaf-mold or peat.
Most ‘liner’ advocates will tell you to line the hole with 4- to 6-mil plastic sheeting, preferably a single sheet, rather than two or more overlapping sheets. Center the liner and push it snugly all around the hole and up the sides, leaving a generous amount as a “collar” all around the edges. Punch some holes around the perimeter because, although the whole idea is to keep it moist, you don’t want a semi-pool of stagnant water.
Add a couple of inches of moist sand over the plastic sheeting. Then continue filling with a mixture of one part sand and three parts peat moss, well dampened, to within a couple of inches of the top of the hole. You can trim the liner collar, but leave about 12 inches all around to allow for further settling. You can cover the exposed liner with rocks, soil, pine needles or mulch if you wish.
So should you use a liner or not? It’s a personal choice, but much will be determined by your specific soil conditions and terrain. In either case, it’s hard to go terribly wrong, assuming you start with a natural basin that tends to collect moisture.
I’m happy to help you with any questions you might have, so feel free to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org You can also research online and here are two resource where you can begin: http://www.pitcherplant.com/bog_making.html and the Brooklyn Botanical Garden Web site http://www.bbg.org/ where you can type Bog Garden into the search window.
You can click on direct links to both sites when you find this column archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
What can you plant in your bog garden? Again you’ll find a lot of ideas online and there are literally hundreds of plants to choose from. Here are just a few ranging from tall to small: (approx mature height in inches)
Bamboo (150), Great Reed (100), Cow Parsnip (100), Pampas Grass (70), Goat’s Beard (50), Japanese Iris (36), Siberian Iris (20), Dwarf Knot Grass (15), Marsh Marigold (12), Bog Pimpernel (4), Moneywort/Creeping Jenny (4)... and SO many more!
Do some research and turn your mini-swamp into a delightful bog garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Where to begin? Obviously, you’ll want to select a site that is low-lying so that moisture will naturally gravitate towards it. If you have a natural ‘basin’ with soil that consists mainly of clay, you probably won’t need much more than a trickle of water to maintain sufficient moisture. At last! A good reason for clay soil!
However, in most cases – particularly when the soil has fairly good drainage – you’ll want to excavate your site somewhat. The depth of the initial excavation should be between one and two feet.
As for the outline of the bog garden, use the old landscaper’s trick: lay a rope or a garden hose on the ground roughly in the desired shape, then move it in or out until you get the exact outline you want. Use a fork or spade to go around the perimeter making the initial cuts, following the rope or hose. Dig down to the soil to the desired depth, piling the soil on a tarp to protect the surrounding lawn.
Now this is where bog garden enthusiasts fall into two different camps: those who like to line the bottom of the excavated hole and those who prefer to use purely ‘natural’ materials.
One proponent of the ‘natural’ style suggests spreading a little clay as the base of your excavation. Over this, add a five-inch layer of rubble or large stones, then fill to a couple of inches below the adjacent grade level with a mixture of half loam and half leaf-mold or peat.
Most ‘liner’ advocates will tell you to line the hole with 4- to 6-mil plastic sheeting, preferably a single sheet, rather than two or more overlapping sheets. Center the liner and push it snugly all around the hole and up the sides, leaving a generous amount as a “collar” all around the edges. Punch some holes around the perimeter because, although the whole idea is to keep it moist, you don’t want a semi-pool of stagnant water.
Add a couple of inches of moist sand over the plastic sheeting. Then continue filling with a mixture of one part sand and three parts peat moss, well dampened, to within a couple of inches of the top of the hole. You can trim the liner collar, but leave about 12 inches all around to allow for further settling. You can cover the exposed liner with rocks, soil, pine needles or mulch if you wish.
So should you use a liner or not? It’s a personal choice, but much will be determined by your specific soil conditions and terrain. In either case, it’s hard to go terribly wrong, assuming you start with a natural basin that tends to collect moisture.
I’m happy to help you with any questions you might have, so feel free to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org You can also research online and here are two resource where you can begin: http://www.pitcherplant.com/bog_making.html and the Brooklyn Botanical Garden Web site http://www.bbg.org/ where you can type Bog Garden into the search window.
You can click on direct links to both sites when you find this column archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
What can you plant in your bog garden? Again you’ll find a lot of ideas online and there are literally hundreds of plants to choose from. Here are just a few ranging from tall to small: (approx mature height in inches)
Bamboo (150), Great Reed (100), Cow Parsnip (100), Pampas Grass (70), Goat’s Beard (50), Japanese Iris (36), Siberian Iris (20), Dwarf Knot Grass (15), Marsh Marigold (12), Bog Pimpernel (4), Moneywort/Creeping Jenny (4)... and SO many more!
Do some research and turn your mini-swamp into a delightful bog garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, June 07, 2006
Landscape architect: a good investment for big projects
Landscape architect: a good investment for big projects
Designing your landscape can be a fun and rewarding project. But sometimes it makes sense to utilize the skill and experience of a professional, particularly when the project is quite extensive. The more you tell the architect about your vision, the better they will be able to design the landscape of your dreams.
Here’s a recent e-mail from a reader that brought that situation to my mind:
QUESTION: “I’m trying to figure out how to sculpture stairs on a hill in back of my house. This is a grassy hill that I don’t want to mow anymore. I have planted four apple trees so far but still have a lot of hill left. The stairs are what is bothering me: how to manage landscaping timbers or something that will look good and fit in. My house is set on rolling hills and the first hill is the problem I am thinking of a bird bath, flowers and ground cover. Can you help with ideas?” – Elizabeth Malloy
ANSWER: Stairs and graduated landing areas would provide much more interest than a rolling lawn. You might want to consider asking for professional advice from a landscape architect. It is not that expensive to get a plan drawn. However, it can get more expensive when you use them to execute the plan rather than treating it as a DIY project. We use the services of a landscape architect every time before we begin a project. If you plan to do the actual work yourself, be sure to tell the architect who can then fit the design to your skill level.
QUESTION: “Your column is a great resource. Thank you! I am trying to coordinate a small landscaping project for a woman at our church who has just finished chemotherapy (it worked, she is in remission). I have had the soil tested, and have done some research on the best native plants to put in. The soil doesn't appear to need much except compost. We want to dig new beds and plant three shrubs in one bed, ground cover in the second and decorative grasses in the third. What is the best way to get rid of the weeds in these new areas?
Also, would it be more efficient (because I'm working with a group of people and this garden has to be absolutely low-maintenance) to dig, improve or buy bags of garden soil. Thanks for your help.” – Debra Locke
ANSWER: There are a number of ways to get rid of the weeds. However, I would recommend the following. First of all, it’s important to check that you have good drainage in the beds. For the shrub bed, lay down a weed barrier mat that you can find at most garden centers. Cut an x in each location where you will plant the three shrubs. Dig the holes and plant shrubs per the supplier’s directions, then cover the weed mat with mulch.
For the ground cover bed, an alternative process would be to lay down the weed barrier mat, cover it with mulch and/or a layer of soil, then plant your ground cover directly in it. For the bed allocated to grasses, my advice would be to handle it like the shrub bed. However, of course, you’ll be cutting more x’s.
The mats are a good way to eliminate the need to deal with any of the old weeds. If the existing soil has been tested and appears to be of good quality, you can use that, possibly augmenting it with purchased topsoil. Good luck with your project!
QUESTION: “I have a Chinese Fringe Tree and this is the second year in the ground. Last year it bloomed but not this year. Do you have any suggestions. The tree is healthy and growing.” – Carolyn Sanders
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I do not have a really good answer for the question but will give a stab at it anyway! One possible cause could be fertilizing the tree too much, giving it all it wants and more. Reason: nitrogen produces lots of foliage but tends to cut down on the blooms. Another possibility could be that it set bud early and then went through a late freeze, killing the buds and not allowing blooms to form.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Designing your landscape can be a fun and rewarding project. But sometimes it makes sense to utilize the skill and experience of a professional, particularly when the project is quite extensive. The more you tell the architect about your vision, the better they will be able to design the landscape of your dreams.
Here’s a recent e-mail from a reader that brought that situation to my mind:
QUESTION: “I’m trying to figure out how to sculpture stairs on a hill in back of my house. This is a grassy hill that I don’t want to mow anymore. I have planted four apple trees so far but still have a lot of hill left. The stairs are what is bothering me: how to manage landscaping timbers or something that will look good and fit in. My house is set on rolling hills and the first hill is the problem I am thinking of a bird bath, flowers and ground cover. Can you help with ideas?” – Elizabeth Malloy
ANSWER: Stairs and graduated landing areas would provide much more interest than a rolling lawn. You might want to consider asking for professional advice from a landscape architect. It is not that expensive to get a plan drawn. However, it can get more expensive when you use them to execute the plan rather than treating it as a DIY project. We use the services of a landscape architect every time before we begin a project. If you plan to do the actual work yourself, be sure to tell the architect who can then fit the design to your skill level.
QUESTION: “Your column is a great resource. Thank you! I am trying to coordinate a small landscaping project for a woman at our church who has just finished chemotherapy (it worked, she is in remission). I have had the soil tested, and have done some research on the best native plants to put in. The soil doesn't appear to need much except compost. We want to dig new beds and plant three shrubs in one bed, ground cover in the second and decorative grasses in the third. What is the best way to get rid of the weeds in these new areas?
Also, would it be more efficient (because I'm working with a group of people and this garden has to be absolutely low-maintenance) to dig, improve or buy bags of garden soil. Thanks for your help.” – Debra Locke
ANSWER: There are a number of ways to get rid of the weeds. However, I would recommend the following. First of all, it’s important to check that you have good drainage in the beds. For the shrub bed, lay down a weed barrier mat that you can find at most garden centers. Cut an x in each location where you will plant the three shrubs. Dig the holes and plant shrubs per the supplier’s directions, then cover the weed mat with mulch.
For the ground cover bed, an alternative process would be to lay down the weed barrier mat, cover it with mulch and/or a layer of soil, then plant your ground cover directly in it. For the bed allocated to grasses, my advice would be to handle it like the shrub bed. However, of course, you’ll be cutting more x’s.
The mats are a good way to eliminate the need to deal with any of the old weeds. If the existing soil has been tested and appears to be of good quality, you can use that, possibly augmenting it with purchased topsoil. Good luck with your project!
QUESTION: “I have a Chinese Fringe Tree and this is the second year in the ground. Last year it bloomed but not this year. Do you have any suggestions. The tree is healthy and growing.” – Carolyn Sanders
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I do not have a really good answer for the question but will give a stab at it anyway! One possible cause could be fertilizing the tree too much, giving it all it wants and more. Reason: nitrogen produces lots of foliage but tends to cut down on the blooms. Another possibility could be that it set bud early and then went through a late freeze, killing the buds and not allowing blooms to form.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, June 01, 2006
Damp soil? Here are seven plants with wet feet!
So you have soggy soil and everything you plant seems to sink in the mud or drown? Why fight Mother Nature when you can go with the flow? Instead of trying to force unsuitable plants to adapt to your damp conditions, pick plants that love getting their feet wet!
In the previous Plant Man column, I discussed plants that should be on your list if you have soil or weather conditions that is on the dry side. If you missed that one you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Today we’re at the other end of the moisture scale: looking at plants that are singin’ in the rain!
Sedges and rushes You might not find Moses in your bulrushes, but if you’re familiar with the story, you remember that rushes can be found beside water so you know they like the environment. Sedges are similar to grasses but there’s a simple way to tell the difference: the stem of a grass is flat or round while the sedge stem is more triangular. Bulrushes are distinguished from other sedges by their substantial height and can make a spectacular statement adjacent to your water feature.
Weeping willow (Salix babylonica
There are few sights more tranquil than a graceful weeping willow with its many long, thin branches hanging to the ground in pendulous curtains, ruffled by a gentle breeze. The babylonica is very adaptable and thrives in moist soil as well as in its traditional location, beside lakes and rivers. It grows quickly to a mature height of around 50 ft with a matching spread.
Red Twig dogwood (Cornus sericea)
One of the few plants that remain colorful in the winter, due to the distinctive deep red branches, this dogwood also boasts delightful white blossoms in May and glowing red berries in the fall. It has high moisture needs, so the Red Twig could be a good choice for a location with consistently moist soil. Mass several as a shrub border in a residential landscape or utilize its soil-retention properties as bank cover. Red Twig grows quite quickly to a modest and manageable height of 3 ft to 6 ft.
Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
You might have seen this majestic beauty alongside water hazards and lakes at golf courses and country clubs. You might also have cursed it when the little white ball ricocheted off the trunk to plop into the water. But keep the Bald Cypress in mind if you have a moderately wet area in need of a stately enhancement. It should mature between 50 and 75 ft and is fairly tolerant of salt and alkali soils.
Peve Minaret
This is the little cousin of the Bald Cypress. With its lush fern-like foliage (turning to yellow-orange in the fall) and its dwarf habit, the Peve Minaret is a real attention-getter. Because it thrives in regular to wet soils, it would be a good choice near a pond or as a foundation plant or as an unusual hedge. It’s an adaptable and low-maintenance dwarf tree (rising to around 8 ft at most) that isn’t easy to find but worth the search. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you’re having trouble locating a source.
River Birch (Betula nigra)
This birch seems to adapt very well to urban and suburban environments. It is aptly named, doing well in “riparian (wet) zones” but also able to hang on through modest droughts. I love the texture of the peeling, flaky, cinnamon-brown bark. At maturity, it should reach 50 to 70 feet in height.
Lily of the Kings (Iris pseudacorus)
This really is an Iris of wet places... frequently found edging small ponds and streams or growing marshy areas. It is sometimes called Yellow Flag and is reputed to be inspiration for the fleur-de-lis heraldic symbol of French royalty. Some gardeners plant Lily of the Kings in a container of rich potting soil and place it directly into a shallow pond.
Wet soil... dry soil... there are trees and shrubs that look great, if you pick the ones that are best suited to your environment.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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In the previous Plant Man column, I discussed plants that should be on your list if you have soil or weather conditions that is on the dry side. If you missed that one you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Today we’re at the other end of the moisture scale: looking at plants that are singin’ in the rain!
Sedges and rushes You might not find Moses in your bulrushes, but if you’re familiar with the story, you remember that rushes can be found beside water so you know they like the environment. Sedges are similar to grasses but there’s a simple way to tell the difference: the stem of a grass is flat or round while the sedge stem is more triangular. Bulrushes are distinguished from other sedges by their substantial height and can make a spectacular statement adjacent to your water feature.
Weeping willow (Salix babylonica
There are few sights more tranquil than a graceful weeping willow with its many long, thin branches hanging to the ground in pendulous curtains, ruffled by a gentle breeze. The babylonica is very adaptable and thrives in moist soil as well as in its traditional location, beside lakes and rivers. It grows quickly to a mature height of around 50 ft with a matching spread.
Red Twig dogwood (Cornus sericea)
One of the few plants that remain colorful in the winter, due to the distinctive deep red branches, this dogwood also boasts delightful white blossoms in May and glowing red berries in the fall. It has high moisture needs, so the Red Twig could be a good choice for a location with consistently moist soil. Mass several as a shrub border in a residential landscape or utilize its soil-retention properties as bank cover. Red Twig grows quite quickly to a modest and manageable height of 3 ft to 6 ft.
Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
You might have seen this majestic beauty alongside water hazards and lakes at golf courses and country clubs. You might also have cursed it when the little white ball ricocheted off the trunk to plop into the water. But keep the Bald Cypress in mind if you have a moderately wet area in need of a stately enhancement. It should mature between 50 and 75 ft and is fairly tolerant of salt and alkali soils.
Peve Minaret
This is the little cousin of the Bald Cypress. With its lush fern-like foliage (turning to yellow-orange in the fall) and its dwarf habit, the Peve Minaret is a real attention-getter. Because it thrives in regular to wet soils, it would be a good choice near a pond or as a foundation plant or as an unusual hedge. It’s an adaptable and low-maintenance dwarf tree (rising to around 8 ft at most) that isn’t easy to find but worth the search. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you’re having trouble locating a source.
River Birch (Betula nigra)
This birch seems to adapt very well to urban and suburban environments. It is aptly named, doing well in “riparian (wet) zones” but also able to hang on through modest droughts. I love the texture of the peeling, flaky, cinnamon-brown bark. At maturity, it should reach 50 to 70 feet in height.
Lily of the Kings (Iris pseudacorus)
This really is an Iris of wet places... frequently found edging small ponds and streams or growing marshy areas. It is sometimes called Yellow Flag and is reputed to be inspiration for the fleur-de-lis heraldic symbol of French royalty. Some gardeners plant Lily of the Kings in a container of rich potting soil and place it directly into a shallow pond.
Wet soil... dry soil... there are trees and shrubs that look great, if you pick the ones that are best suited to your environment.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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