Spectacular shrubs can dazzle with fall color

When it comes to fall color, it’s not only trees that put on a dazzling show. Select the right shrubs and you can have a display of autumn colors closer to ground level. Here are a few of my favorites:

Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compacta)
It is sometimes called Cork Tree or Dwarf Winged Euonymus, but nothing can better describe this shrub than the name Burning Bush! In the fall, the foliage turns to such a brilliant – almost luminous – red that it almost seems too perfect to be real. But real it is, of course.

If left untrimmed, it can reach a height of about 6 to 10 feet and produces orange/red berries that provide food for wildlife through the winter. A row of Burning Bushes in front of your house, particularly if backed by a white or light-colored wall, will create a colorful welcome to visitors in the fall. Although Burning Bush is somewhat shade-tolerant, you’ll see the brightest color if the shrubs are planted in full sun.

Fothergilla (Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae)
Like many plants, this one has an interesting history. It is named after Dr. John Fothergill (1735 – 1780), a physician and botanist, who championed the cause of the American colonists and became a friend of Benjamin Franklin.

Fothergilla is a dense, compact shrub producing fragrant, feathery, white flowers in the spring that remind me of bottle brushes. The rounded, dark-green leaves turn to a delightful orange-red and even scarlet. Fothergilla are tolerant of most soils, but do best in acid, moist, well-drained soil.

Clethra Ruby Spice (Clethra alnifolia Ruby Spice)
The first time I saw this plant (or to be more accurate, a whole section of them) growing at a friend’s nursery, I was immediately struck by the cinnamon-like fragrance that was apparent from at least 50 feet away! It was July and the clusters of pink flowers were in full bloom.

Later, in the fall, the foliage becomes a very pleasant shade of yellow and then golden-brown. Ruby Spice is a good choice for shrub borders or around water features. I don’t recommend planting in drought-prone areas, but on the other hand, it is fairly adaptable to semi-waterlogged clay soils.

Little Henry (Itea virginica)
Little Henry could be a good choice when you’re looking for an attractive perennial shrub that maintains a compact size. Topping out between 1 and 3 feet at maturity, Little Henry is a semi-evergreen with dark green leaves that turn to a reddish tint in early fall and then go all the way to remarkable shades of dark crimson and scarlet as the temperatures drop. As I have said before, Little Henry is the one plant that can truly rival Burning Bush when it comes to eye-popping fall color.

I’ve found Little Henry to be quite easy to grow and it seems relatively free of problems associated with disease and insects. It’s an adaptable little fellow, tolerant of damp or dry soils, variances in pH and tolerant of light conditions from shade to full sun. I’d say Little Henry would be a good choice to cover a bank or a hillside that’s not easy to mow. It looks good around a pond or lake, too.

Shenandoah grass (Panicum virgatum)
This elegant ornamental grass is sometimes mistaken for Japanese Blood grass, but is just different enough to give your landscape a unique edge. Shenandoah has a cascading form with foliage that starts out green with the tips beginning to turn red by about mid-July. By the fall, the entire plant will have turned to a mixture of orange and red, for a spectacular display.

Shenandoah is a fairly fast-growing grass that can reach a height of around 4 to 5 feet. Plant it where it can get the benefit of full sun in order to achieve the full benefit of the spectacular color.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Six trees that bring vibrant color to fall landscapes

It is a wonder of Nature that, as plants prepare themselves for the winter ahead, they produce some of the most spectacular, eye-popping color of their life cycle.

If you are like Cheryl and me, you love to see the glorious colors. The change seems gradual at first, then almost overnight, everything between the ground and the sky is a flood of gold, red, crimson and claret.

If you enjoy driving out to the countryside to take in the fall colors, or if you look with envy upon your neighbors’ colorful fall displays, this could the perfect time to select some trees and shrubs that you can plant now and enjoy for many autumn seasons in the future.

Today, I have a few colorful suggestions; trees that seem to come into their own each fall, saying, “Hey guys! Look at me! I’m dazzling!”

Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
If you’re looking for pistachio nuts, keep looking because you won’t find them on this tree, despite its name. However, you will find a delightful tree whose color changes quite gradually, allowing you truly to enjoy the different hues. It’s a hardy tree, quite tolerant of drought and soil conditions. We started growing some from seed about 20 years ago and found them easy to grow; but I suggest you look for them in gallon pots.

Cleveland Select Flowering Pear
In the spring, the Cleveland Select bursts out with snowy white blooms; in fact more blooms than just about any flowering pear I can think of. Then a few months later, the foliage changes from glossy green to purplish red and orange. This makes a real delight for lovers of colorful trees, and is ideal for yard or street planting.

China Snow Fringe Tree (Chionanthus retusus)
“Huh?” I hear you say. Yes, an unusual plant, but worth seeking out, particularly if you like something that will probably be unique in your neighborhood. This particular variety was developed by the renowned horticulturist Don Shadow and is one of the most beautiful of the small flowering trees in spring, summer AND fall. If you’re having trouble locating this rare find, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with some shopping information.

Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
> From a rarity to a perennial favorite among fall color fans! You can’t go
far wrong with a Sugar Maple. The majestic height and conical shape provide the ideal canvas for a vast display of gold and orange every fall. Be aware, though, that maples need some room to grow. This one can reach 75 – 100 feet at maturity, so you need to be thinking parkland or large lawns to provide the right scale.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
For really vibrant colors, you can’t beat Sourwood. When the drooping white panicles of brilliant white flowers finally begin to fade at the onset of autumn, you are treated to a foliage show that runs the gamut from orange-red to brick red to flaming scarlet. This one can be tricky to transplant successfully, so I recommend buying container-grown plants rather than bare root. You’ll get the best results when you plant Sourwood in moist, acid, well-drained soil that has quite a bit of organic content.

Washington Hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum)
With a name like this, it sounds more like a 19th century author than a tree. However there are no literary connections. Growing to a manageable height of around 25 to 35 feet, the Washington Hawthorn tends to bloom a little later than many other trees, producing clusters of white flowers in late spring and early summer, followed by red berries that remain through the autumn as the foliage changes to an attractive mix of orange and red.

Next time, I’ll take a look at some shrubs that brighten up fall landscapes with their brilliant colors.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Crape Myrtles bloom with a dose of Epsom Salts

QUESTION: “I have eleven Crape Myrtles in my front yard, Last year they flowered. This year there was limited flowering, and my white Crape Myrtle did not flower this year. What plant food can I give them to make the all bloom for next year? Can you give them spike slow release food? What would be the best, and when do I start to feed them?” – Diane B.

ANSWER: There are two things to bear in mind. One: If you fertilize with a heavy nitrogen you will produce foliage but no blooms. Two: In order for your Crape Myrtle to bloom you may want to try this cocktail (for the Crape Myrtles, not you) Mix one tablespoon of Epsom Salts into one gallon of water and pour around the roots of the plant. Repeat for the others, using one gallon per plant. This works by stressing the plant causing it to bloom. I would try the Epsom Salts now and perhaps nip back the tips of the tree or even trim if it needs shaping.

QUESTION: “I just moved into a new home that has a Dogwood and it doesn't seem to be doing well. Many of the leaves are turning red. The leaves that are entirely red are shriveling up with the tips of them brown, and it looks like the tips of those leaves are dying. The other leaves have purple spots on them. Some of those have some tan spots that have dark rims but not all the leaves have this. However, all of the leaves have purple spots or blotches on them.

One section of the tree has what looks like a white residue on some of the leaves that are on the ends of the branch. Most of the leaves are not fully open. Also the bark is all green on the main trunk and there are light green, and whiteish-green blotches on the trunk and branches. There is some yellow on the trunk near the base of the tree. Its early September so some of the leaves could be changing early, but most look sick. The tree sits in full sun in the front yard. Please help! Is there anything I can do?” – Chuck S.

ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I don’t think there is not a whole lot that you can do. From what you tell me, one of two things is most likely happening. The first of these is that the tree has developed anthracnose and, sadly, there is no cure. It is a disease that I believe will eventually wipe out the regular native Dogwoods as we know them. Fortunately, there are new hybrids being developed that are anthracnose resistant. One successful variety is named Appalachian Spring.

The second possibility is that your tree is displaying powdery mildew which again is common to Dogwoods. You can spray with a fungicide such as Cleary about 3 times during the growing season to control that. Good luck!

QUESTION: “I enjoy your column very much and have learned a great deal from it. Now I have a problem not only with moles/gophers throughout the entire garden and yard but also white stuff that has appeared on my zucchini, other squash, phlox and even wild roses. Is this Scale? and if so, what can I use to get rid of it? I have also found it in other areas around Wisconsin. Thanks for your good columns and helpful advice.” – Janet F.

ANSWER: I don’t know for sure, but it just sounds like powdery mildew which is spread by wind. Since humidity encourages it, late summer with cool nights and warm days is when you are likely to see more of it. If you think that this is what the problem is, you can spray your perennial plants with the following mixture.
1 gallon water
2 ½ tbs horticultural oil
1 tbs baking soda
Mix and store in labeled closed jar. Spray as symptoms appear on into cool weather.

There isn’t much to say about moles/gophers. They are a pill to deal with! There is a product called Mole Stopper which works with the taste and smell of the critter to keep it away.

These q&a's were taken from the Plant Man Column.

Garden goodies lure birds to your backyard

What makes a garden into a welcoming club room for birds? Simply put, food,

water and shelter. Provide these three basics and your landscape can quickly become an avian haven. Today I'll have a few more suggestions for plants that you might want to consider if attracting birds is one of your priorities.

If you missed last week's column, which was the first part of a two parter on bird-friendly gardens, you can find it under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

Food will always be a major motivator. Essentially, plants that provide fruit, nuts or seeds are the ones that are the most likely to attract birds.

Additionally, plants that provide nesting materials, shelter from the weather or a comfortable roosting location will make your landscape even more bird-friendly.

Here are some more plants that appeal to both birds and bird lovers:

American Bittersweet (Calastrus scandens)
Plant some Bittersweet and watch birds and other wildlife as they enjoy the clusters of yellow-orange fruit when it ripens around October. If you can harvest any before the birds have pecked it all away, you can make delightful fall floral arrangement with the boughs. Bittersweet adapts well to most soil conditions and can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet at maturity.

Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)
I like the highly fragrant reddish brown flowers on this dense, rounded deciduous shrub. The birds like the urn-shaped fruits that are really seed capsules, developing in early fall and often lasting well into the winter.

By the way, this shrub is sometimes called Strawberry Bush because the blooms smell a bit like a combination of strawberries, bananas and pineapple. Even the leaves are pleasantly fragrant when you bruise them to release the aroma. Planting Carolina Allspice near a window or around a patio would be a good way to enjoy the fragrance and the birds.

Flowering Crabapples
I particularly like two varieties named Robinson Crabapple and Centurion Crabapple. The former is the faster growing of the two and sports distinctive pink blossoms. The Centurion has a rose-red flower and, with a mature height around 25 feet, is a good choice for landscaping or alongside a driveway.

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)
Spicebush produces shiny red berries (called drupes) that are attractive to a variety of birds including American Robin, Northern Bobwhite and the Great

Crested Flycatcher. Spicebush can make a very pleasant hedge when planted about 3 feet apart. It has a mature height of 3 to 6 feet and produces fragrant yellow-green flowers in early spring.

Viburnum Cardinal Candy (Viburnum dilatatum)
Yes, I've told you about this one before, but definitely worth mentioning again! This Viburnum produces masses of shiny scarlet-red fruit that really is "eye candy" and seems to be a bird's version of a candy treat, too. The fruit starts appearing in late summer and quite often can still be seen in early spring the following year. By May, the branches are covered by creamy white flowers and the process begins all over again.

Red Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
This dense, thorny shrub produces both leaves and fruit that are delightful shades of red. As well as food, this bush can provide a safe haven for birds as the thorns will usually deter the neighbor's kitty from plunging in too recklessly.

Arnolds Red Honeysuckle (Lonicera arnolds red)
The birds and the bees - well, definitely the bees anyway - will be drawn to this Honeysuckle that seems to grow well in just about any soil type short of a swamp. With bright red blooms in spring, it is tough as well as attractive, and makes an ideal screen or hedgerow with a mature height between 6 and 10 feet.

And be sure to provide fresh, clean drinking water for your birds to enjoy after all their munchies!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Fall planting to create a “bird friendly” garden

For most of us, one of the joys of creating a garden or landscape is watching the birds that are attracted by the plants that we have so carefully nurtured. As the fall planting season approaches, amateur ornithologists can feed their interest by selecting plants that act as “bird magnets.”

Today, I have some suggestions for plants that could make a great bird garden. But first, here are a few tips that will help you create your own bird sanctuary.

First of all, get a pencil and paper and roughly sketch out your existing landscape, showing the position of the house, garage, driveway, etc, as well as any significant trees and groups of shrubs. By doing this, you’ll have a “birds-eye view” of the natural and artificial resources you already have.

Here’s a good idea: Are there any wildlife sanctuaries, parks or botanical gardens within driving distance? If so, it’s certainly worth a visit. Why? Because you’ll be able to see what kind of natural bird habitats “work” in your area. If you can find one of the employees or volunteers at the park or garden, so much the better. I’ve found that they’re often eager to talk to visitors and give you the benefit of their experience.

Another good resource is the Web site hosted by the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. You can read an excellent article titled “Twelve ways to design a bird-friendly garden” at http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/wildlife/handbooks/birds/3.html and you can click on a direct link when you find this Plant Man column at my Web site www.landsteward.org

Among the idea described in the article:

Re-create the layers of plant growth found in local natural areas. You’ll be putting the odds in your favor if you provide plants that are proven to attract birds locally.

Select plants with an eye to providing nutritional foods during different seasons. A no brainer: birds will go where the food is!

Plant small trees and shrubs in same-species clumps. One good reason is that you’ll increase pollination and fertility, providing more fruit for birds to eat.

Provide at least one clump of conifers. You’ll be furnishing shelter, nesting and roosting sites.

Spare a dead tree (snag) for the birds. Great perches for songbirds and ideal locations to hang birdhouses.

The Brooklyn Botanical article goes into considerably more detail than we have space for here and is an excellent primer for anyone planning a bird-friendly garden. Investing a few minutes to read through it could definitely pay dividends.

And now, some plant ideas that will look good and attract birds to your garden.

Fragrant abelia (Abelia mosanensis)
This is an abelia that is both fragrant and hardy. How hardy? Well, it was found growing on the land of the Latvian-Russian border, so you can bet it’s pretty darn hardy! The rich pink flowers can “out-fragrance” even lilacs and seem popular with many species of birds.

Hummingbird Clethra (Clethra alnifolia hummingbird)
As you might guess from its name this fast-growing deciduous shrub hits the spot for hummingbirds as well as butterflies. The fragrant white flowers are bottlebrush-shaped on glossy green densely mounded foliage that turns a pleasant shade of yellow in the fall.

Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis)
Sometimes known as juneberry or shad bush, it can be grown either as a multi-stemmed shrub or a small tree, reaching a height of about 20 to 30 feet with a spread of 10 to 15 feet. The berries are very popular with birds and can be eaten by humans, too (or so they say; I let the birds eat my share). The flowers are both showy and fragrant, growing in lush white clusters, and are among the earliest of the flowering shrubs each spring.

There we have just three quick suggestions that would be attractive elements in your bird-friendly garden. If you’re looking for more plant ideas as you plan your fall plantings, drop me an e-mail with some brief details about your landscape and what you’re hoping to achieve and I’ll reply with some suggestions.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

These lawn mushrooms are no fun guys!

You pour a cup of morning coffee and glance out over your lawn. Wait a minute! What are those little white bumps? They weren’t there last night. If you’ve ever had that happen to you, you can sympathize with the frustration felt by this reader...

QUESTION: “What can I do to stop the growth of mushrooms in my backyard? I have to remove them sometimes twice weekly.” – Dorothy Branch

ANSWER: Mushrooms (or toadstools) are often a sign that your lawn has insufficient drainage and is staying wet. Addressing the drainage problem is the best first step.

Simply picking the mushrooms won’t get rid of the problem. The mushrooms are the reproductive (or fruiting) structures of certain kinds of fungi that are present below the surface of the lawn. The caps contain millions of microscopic spores that are wind-carried until they find a favorable site in which to grow. They then send out long filaments deep into the soil below your lawn.

An excellent online resource is this publication from the University of California http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74100.html and you can click on a direct link to that report when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org

Even though picking the ‘shrooms won’t do much to prevent the underlying problem, the primary reasons for removing mushrooms from lawns are to keep them away from children and pets and to improve the lawn's appearance.

Always bear in mind that some species are poisonous and you should never eat mushrooms picked from your lawn unless you are a fungi expert and you are certain they are edible! It’s a good idea to keep a pair of dedicated mushroom gloves handy if removing them really is a frequent chore. This will help to keep the spores off your hands so you don’t ingest them or pass them along when you touch Fido or the kids.

A few weeks ago, I wrote a column titled “Turn wet land into spectacular bog garden.” Recently I received the following e-mail from a reader: COMMENT: “In light of the concern with rapidly disappearing wetlands and the recent Supreme Court decision concerning filling wetlands as a possible violation of the Clean Water Act, I think you might at least have mentioned wetlands protection and [its] importance. The Corps of Engineers is responsible for monitoring and enforcing activities involving wetlands. I realize you were probably thinking about rather small tracts; still it may not take much disturbance such as excavating soil to come within the terms of wetlands protection.” – John Watson

ANSWER: Good point, John. I am a strong supporter of wetlands protection and I’m pleased to take this opportunity to remind readers about the importance of wetlands preservation. As you note, I was specifically talking about those small patches of lawn or garden that are simply “wet land” rather than “wetlands.” Again, you can refer to that column by visiting my Web site.

Here’s another reader comment that you might find helpful:

COMMENT: “I would like to pass on some information to other gardeners. We have tried to plant a weeping cherry tree three times and every time it grows well and all of a sudden all the leaves fall off and it dies. We were told to use Bayer Systematic Insect Spray. Hopefully this is not premature but it is doing fantastic and so far the cherry tree borer has stayed away from it. I also used it on the crepe myrtles and no longer have the "sootie mold" on the leaves which comes from the aphids. Hope this helps someone.” – Bob Steffon

ANSWER: I have not tried that particular product so I have no personal experience, but I’m glad to know it seems to be working for you. I always like to receive ideas and recommendations from readers and then pass them along.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

'Plant’ your own personality on your landscape

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote this column on the subject of new and unusual twists on old favorites for folks who want to create a landscape look that is just a little out of the ordinary. Judging by the e-mail I received, many readers are intrigued by the idea of less-than-familiar plants, so today I have a few more suggestions that will make your garden just a little more unique.

Spirea are among the easiest plants to transplant and to grow successfully. They also tend to grow quite quickly, so they are worth considering if you need to establish a mature look without a long wait. Spirea are not particularly uncommon, but if you pick one or two of the less common varieties you can put a personal stamp on your landscape.

Spirea "Snow Storm"
As the seasons change, this beauty seems to take on a whole different personality, if color is anything to go by. In late spring and early summer, it is covered by such a profusion of white blooms that it looks as if it had been blanketed by a freak snowstorm. The dome-shaped blooms are quite large (6 to 8 inches across) and are pure white with delicate pink centers. The blossoms contrast beautifully with the deep blue-green leaves.

When summer turns to fall, the foliage puts on an eye-popping display of yellow, red and orange, a marked contrast from the profusion of white seen only a few weeks before.

Snow Storm can work well as a specimen, but I’ve seen it as the backdrop for a perennial garden when several of them are planted about 5 feet apart. It’s also an excellent choice if you’re looking for an unusual shrub border. It is fairly easy to grow and seems to maintain a consistent flower color regardless of soil type, but in my experience it prefers well-drained or sandy soil. At maturity, Snow Storm reaches a height of 3 to 6 feet.

Spirea "Magic Carpet" pp # 9363
It is no exaggeration to say that I fell in love with Magic Carpet the first time I saw it at the nursery. It was the height of summer so it was in full bloom covered with deep pink flowers offset by leaves that were bronze to light green with red tips.

The nurseryman told me that, in the spring, it has vibrant, red-emerging leaf shoots that turn to the bronze/light green color I was looking at under the summer sun. In fact, bright sun will bring out the most vibrant color and Magic Carpet is quite drought-resistant, too. Apparently, the foliage will retain its rich russet tones until well into late fall or early winter.

This is a plant that can play many roles in a landscape, due to its compact size, reaching a mature height of only 12" to 18" with a spread of about two feet or so. This would make a spectacular – and unexpected – groundcover or work well as a small specimen shrub, perhaps with the larger Spirea Snow Storm as a back drop.

Two other spireas you might want to check out if you would like a personal look for your landscape: Darts Red (with its striking deep red blooms) and the compact Lemon Princess (sporting oversized bright pink flowers over toothed gold-green leaves).

All well worth looking for when you’re striving for a landscape that reflects your individual personality! If you’re having trouble finding them, drop a note to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll help you with some shopping information. If you missed the previous column featuring unusual twists on old favorites, you can find it at www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading. Look for "variations on old favorites add pizzazz to landscape."

As fall planting season approaches, I’ll try to come up with a few more uncommon plants that might appeal to you. Meanwhile, if you want some specific suggestions, send me an e-mail with a few details about your landscape and location and I’ll reply with some suggestions.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Weeds have less chance in a thick, healthy lawn

The summer heat can create headaches for landscapers and gardeners. When it comes to watering, how much is too much? And what can be done about the sudden emergence of crab grass? These were questions e-mailed to me recently by readers of this column.

QUESTION: "I have 52,000 square feet of sod, it's been very nice and green but this year I have been invaded by crab grass. I have never had this problem before. I had previously used one of those green thumb services but this year I decided to do it myself to save some money. This crab grass grows so fast, so big it's taking over! It has popped up right through my sod. What do you think I'm doing wrong and what might correct the problem?" – Bob

ANSWER: Crabgrass can be a problem for cool-season lawns during the heat of summer. In most cases, the seed is there lying dormant during fall/winter and begins to sprout in spring. Your lawn service was constantly caring for your lawn, using the proper fertilizer, herbicide and correct mowing height. It is worth noting that weeds generally aren't a problem in thick, healthy lawns.

Most people just fertilize and mow their lawns. But, it takes research and a lot of time to achieve a healthy lawn. Fertilizer should be applied (on cool-season grass) in early spring, early summer, late summer, and early fall. Some fertilizer compounds contain herbicides which should be used in the spring season as a pre-emergence.

When mowing, the height will depend mostly on the recommended height set by the seed company for the grass planted. Most are in the 2-4 inch height range, but again it depends on the grass variety. Not enough fertilizer, mowing too closely, drought, insects and diseases can also play a part in the weed problem as well.

This time of year, you may want to visit your hardware store for their recommendation on a post-emergence herbicide for crabgrass that will not harm your lawn. Follow the directions on the packaging. Since you do have a problem with the crabgrass now, you may want to apply a pre-emergence during winter or very early spring.

There are several good books on lawn care at most book stores (maybe even your local hardware store). If you decide to continue to maintain your lawn yourself, you might want to pick one up.

QUESTION: "I have 19 Emerald green Arborvitae, planted about two months ago. I watered them as the nursery man said, for 5 minutes every other day for the first week, then if we had no rain, once a week for 5 minutes each. I also set up a weeping hose around all of them so that I could water them while I was at work. My question is, does overwatering cause the trees to go brown and if it does, will they come back if I stop watering them?" – Patrick Blythe

ANSWER: Plants that are over watered and plants that are under watered can show the same symptoms. Based on what you have told me, yes, I would guess that you are over watering. It is a hard call on how much to water during the heat of summer. My recommendation is to cut back on the amount that you are giving them. A good deep watering every 3rd-5th day will be more than enough during the hottest part of summer. You may need to check the soil at the base of the plants by pulling some of the soil away to see if the root area is moist or dry.

As the weather begins cool somewhat, generally in early/mid September, taper off watering even more to harden off the plants. Cutting down to watering every 7 to 10 days by fall would be good. As fall sets in, you may not even need to water them at all, as well as through the winter. If your fall/winter is drier than normal, you may want to water from time to time. In most regions, fall and winter receive more moisture (through rain and snow) and with cooler temperatures there is considerably less stress on the plants. However, you should not attempt to water during freezing weather.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Try something new in your garden!

The Plant Man column
for publication week of 08/13/06 - 08/19/06
(695 words)
###

The Plant Man
by Steve Jones

There’s something comforting about planting the tried-and-true in the garden. A sense of continuity and tradition. But sometimes, those familiar stand-bys can seem a little dull and boring. It doesn’t have to be that way.

Today, I have some ideas for turning “okay” into “Oh Wow!” How? By looking for plants that are perennial favorites... but then selecting variants from that plant’s family that are a lot less familiar. Take the tried-and-true and give it a tweak!

Hydrangea macrophylla Cardinal Red
Let’s start with a plant that is familiar to just about everyone: the hydrangea. It used to be the plant of choice with people looking for flowering shrubs. Because of that, hydrangeas seemed to be everywhere and as a result they began to lose their appeal. But I’ve noticed that the humble hydrangea is once again becoming popular, particularly with a younger generation of homeowners.

Select a slightly unusual variety – such as the Cardinal Red – and your planting puts a unique twist on an old stand-by. Not only is the foliage attractive, but the huge red flower heads put on a great show all summer. One of the reasons for the popularity of hydrangeas is that they are shade tolerant and grow well on the shady side of a building or under trees. I like to see them planted as specimens, or massed together for stunning borders. The dried flower heads look good in flower arrangements, too.

Another option, if you’re laying out cool colors for your garden, could be the hydrangea Nikko Blue that will look delightful amid all those purples, pinks and whites.

Hydrangea macrophylla Forever Pink
Two things make this hydrangea a little different. It’s a dwarf variety, making it perfect for a low hedge or foundation planting. Secondly, Forever Pink blooms about one month earlier than most other hydrangeas and usually continues looking good until frost.

But why stop at hydrangeas?

Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica “Little Henry”)
If you’re looking for a compact shrub that’s easy to grow, relatively free of diseases and provides year-round color, Little Henry could be for you.

The lightly-scented pure white flowers remind me of a spectacular display of bursting fireworks, frozen in time. But it’s the foliage that boasts the most dazzling color. The dark green leaves take on a reddish tinge in early fall that develops into dark crimson and scarlet and the days get chillier. The fantastic blood-red foliage even eclipses the more familiar Burning Bush.

Little Henry is an easygoing fellow who tolerates soil from moist to dry and light conditions from full sun to shade. As always, if you cannot find this plant easily, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll see if I can get you some shopping information.

Rosa “Carefree Delight”
Your neighbors might have roses, but they probably don’t have this variety. Many horticulturists consider the Carefree Delight to be one of the most beautiful, long blooming, and hardy, disease resistant shrub roses available today, so this is definitely a possibility if you’re looking for a twist on a traditional favorite.

This is what you might call a “living fence” and forms a dense wall of foliage and hundreds of blooms with very little effort on your part. The flowers start out as dark pink buds that develop into white-eyed blossoms and often continue from late spring until frost.

Giant Pussy Willow (Salix chaenomeloides)
Yes, pussy willows are a familiar sight. But this one looks like it is on steroids! To give you an idea, it has catkins the size of a rabbit’s foot and can grow to about ten feet high. It’s not easy to find but quite easy to grow.

I like the silver-grey foliage in the summer and the glowing red-yellow bark in the winter. Seeing the red buds turn into furry catkins in the early spring still brings out the kid in me.

So look for unusual twists on old favorites and put a unique face on a familiar landscape.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

No-sweat ideas for dog-day gardening

It’s August. It’s hot and dry, or it’s hot and humid. But pretty much everywhere... it’s hot. And that means, for most of us, it’s not much fun being outdoors.

Fortunately, the “must do” list for garden and landscape lovers is mercifully short. But that doesn’t mean you can let it slide!

Let’s take a look at my “dog days must do” list that will keep your landscape looking good until those cooler days return.

Start early!
Don’t put it off. It’s tempting to pour another cup of coffee and look out at the great outdoors from your air-conditioned nest. But leave it too late and when you DO step outside, the heat hits you smack in the face and you retreat back inside.

Work in short bursts
Get out there before the sun gets up too high and take care of one or two landscape chores, even if you only spend fifteen or twenty minutes doing it. You can always go back out again tomorrow morning.

Weed and weed again
Leave weeds alone too long and they get a real grip on your landscape, sucking up moisture and nutrients that should be going to your plants. Don’t try to weed every square inch in one go! Working in short bursts, thoroughly weed one area this morning, then tomorrow you can pick up where you left off.

As much as possible, try to pull the weeds before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. If you need an incentive, remind yourself that every seed will turn into a new weed if you don’t get it now!

Water the lawn... or not
As I’ve said many times before, for best results water deeply about once a week rather than lightly and more frequently. And set the mower blades to around three inches so that the slightly taller grass shades the soil and allows the moisture to linger longer.

But if your lawn should turn brown, or if your municipality imposes water restrictions, don’t sweat it. For the most part, a brown lawn is dormant and will resume its more attractive green hue when the fall rain returns.

Trees and shrubs
Take a look at your trees and remove any dead branches. If you have any summer flowering shrubs that are beginning to look unkempt, you can prune them back to a better shape as soon as they’ve finished flowering.

Perennials
Pick the dead flowers off your perennials. You can do this as you’re weeding around them if you wish, taking care of two chores at once. Deadheading not only makes your garden look fresher and brighter, they will also continue to flower longer because they will not go into their seed-producing phase just yet.

Look! Up in the sky...
It’s a hanging basket! Sometimes, when we’re concentrating on plants at ground level, we can forget to check on those hanging baskets. Reach up and push your finger deep down into the soil. You’re checking to see if there is enough moisture down at the root level, not just on the surface. If it doesn’t feel moist, water them thoroughly, but be careful not to over water to avoid rotting the roots.

While you’re at it, do the same thing with any container plants out there on your porch or patio. Again, the best time to water is early in the morning.

Bath time for birdies
If you have a bird bath, be sure that it has fresh water and isn’t getting green and slimy. Apart from being an unhealthy environment for the birds, stagnant water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes. At the same time, make sure that tarps and wheelbarrows haven’t collected storm water creating a mini mosquito farm. Can you say West Nile Virus? I thought you could!

Remember, don’t be a hero! You won’t win a medal for working outside in the broiling sun until you drop. Go out early. Take a bottle of water with you. Work in short bursts. Don’t try to get everything done in one session.

Now go back inside and enjoy your air conditioning as you survey your landscape with a sense of real accomplishment. And remember the words of Scarlett O’Hara: “Tomorrow is another day!”

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Brown lawns giving you the Summer time blues?

The text of this column is largely based on The Plant Man, dated 07/20/03, a perennial favorite among readers. Here’s a second chance to see a classic column.

"There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime Blues." I heard that Eddie Cochran song on an oldies radio station this morning. I thought to myself, "It's the summertime BROWNS that bother most homeowners... at least when it comes to lawns!"

Every summer, I get calls or e-mails asking me what can be done to "cure" browned-out lawns. The bad news: To paraphrase Eddie, there pretty much "ain't no cure" for a lawn that's browned out from the summer weather conditions. The good news: It's not a disaster!

I'll explain that later in this column, but first let's think about some preventative measures that will keep your lawn from degenerating into a giant sheet of coconut matting. By the way, as this is a subject that comes up quite often, I suggest you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org where you will find an archive of these columns under "The Plant Man" heading, as well as several other helpful articles. You can also sign up for my free e-mailed newsletter if you wish.

So what can you do to maintain a healthy lawn until the cooler weather returns?

Mowing height adjustment is probably the most important practice to prepare lawns for hot weather, according to Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator at the University of Illinois Extension. He recommends that you mow at heights around three inches or slightly higher. If in doubt, set the mower as high as it will go. Lawns maintained at higher heights usually develop deeper roots and dry out slower than closely mowed turf. Lawn growth will slow as the weather gets drier and hotter. The complete article can be found at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortihints/0106b.html
and you can find a direct link to it from this "Plant Man" column at my Web site. The commonest lawn grasses in most areas are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue. As an act of self-preservation, these grasses tend to slow down their growth and go dormant during hot weather. If you wish to maintain a green lawn throughout the summer, you must make a commitment now to water throughout the summer!

If you don't believe me, here's some advice from the experts at the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. In particular, they tell us that you will need to follow a regular watering routine before the lawn begins to brown. Why? Because once the lawn goes dormant in mid-summer watering will not generally green it up until fall.

To keep the lawn green requires about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week, according to the folks at the Kemper Center. A sprinkler used on home lawns usually deliver from one-quarter to one-third inch per hour. It is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week than frequent light watering.

You can read the entire text at http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/hortline/messages/3209.shtml and, as always, there is a direct link from this column archived at my Web site.

Another reminder: I advise you to water early in the day. For one thing, it's more comfortable for you because it's cooler. But most important, watering early in the day appears to reduce disease occurrence.

But back to my statement at the beginning of this column. Generally speaking, it's not a disaster if your grass goes brown in the dry summer heat. Again, I want to emphasize that the brown color is an indication that the grass has gone dormant. This is nature's way of conserving energy until
such times as the grass can renew its growth in the cycle of life. Dormant and dead are not the same thing.

Let me know if you are having lawn problems or if you need advice or suggestions about any aspect of landscaping. I try to respond via e-mail within a day or so, and some questions will be featured in future column.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org

Ground cover and grass fight soil erosion on slopes

At this time of year, lawn problems seem to be top of mind with most garden enthusiasts. However, some problems can take on a more “personal” aspect, as you might guess from this first question:

QUESTION: “My husband and I are having a disagreement over planting on a sloping bank and retaining wall. He insists that it must have grass to prevent soil erosion (which obviously would have to be trimmed all the time). Please tell me if plantings hold the soil and if some particular groundcover or mulch should be used.” – Kay Ralph

ANSWER: Grass is always a good protection against soil erosion, as are other types of groundcover. However, what you actually plant can depend on a number of factors including the degree of slope, the soil type, whether the area is shaded or in partial or full sun and the plant hardiness zone you are in. All groundcover will hold soil to a great degree once established. If you contact me again, letting me know your USDA zone and some indication of the other variables, I can recommend some specific ground covers.

For anyone who is unsure of the USDA zone in which you live, simply drop me an e-mail with your zip code and I’ll respond with your zone. You can also go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and type USDA into the search window to see a full color plant hardiness map.

QUESTION: “I was hoping you could help me with two problems I have. First, I have some hostas in a row behind my patio in my back yard. I'm not sure what kind they are; the leaves are darker on the inside and lighter around the outside. Anyway, every year something eats a lot of holes in the leaves and they look terrible. Now I'm trying to grow bean plants in the same area and the same thing is happening to the leaves on those plants. Do you have any idea what is behind that and how to get rid of whatever is causing it?

“My other problem is that I have a lot of bare spots in my yard with no grass. I do have a lot of trees in my yard and have been told that, because I have so many trees, grass will not grow in certain areas of the yard. Is this true? I like having a lot of trees in my yard and don't want to cut them down if I don't have to. I have tried many different kinds of grass seed, shady, high-traffic and others. They seem to grow good at first then always die off. Is there any way to have a lot of trees and a yard of nice grass too? I hate the way the yard looks and really could use some help!” – Bill Freeman

ANSWER: The first problem sounds like snails. You can get rid of them using a product called Sluggo The active ingredient in Sluggo is iron phosphate so it is an organic compound that breaks down into fertilizer in your yard. There’s another product called Slug It! Concentrate. I use this myself in our garden with great results for hostas. If you need some shopping information for either product, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org

As for the grass, a lot will depend on the soil and the types of grasses. Growing a decent lawn under shade trees is never easy! Of course, it is important to keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris. Here is a link to a site that I use on lawn questions. http://www.lawncare.com/
There are numerous helpful articles there, including one titled “How to seed bare spots and thin areas.”

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

The green, green grass of home... without chemicals?

Is there really a way to maintain a lush, healthy, pest-free lawn without using risky pesticides? More and more natural gardening advocates are saying yes, it IS possible. If you have ever felt uneasy about using chemical pesticides, today’s column is a must-read!

Pesticides are, quite obviously, poisons intended to kill insects. However, most pesticides affect vital biological processes that are not unique to the target pests, according to an organization called the Safer Pest Control Project (SPCP), based in Chicago, Illinois. Pesticides can also be harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises that are part of a lawn’s natural defenses. Also affected are microorganisms, the little guys that break down organic matter that nourishes your soil.

Additionally, pets and children running barefoot on the lawn can track pesticides into the house where they adhere to carpets and furniture.

Pesticides are regulated by the EPA and are subject to rigorous testing. However, many concerned individuals and groups such as the SPCP advocate alternative ways to achieve healthy, pest-free lawns and soil.

You can download dozens of useful fact sheets about non-toxic care of lawns and gardens at http://www.spcpweb.org/yards/ and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with many other resources you might find helpful.

So what can you do if you are leery of chemical pesticides? Among the SPCP’s suggestions:

Water weekly
Don’t water your lawn daily. A deep, weekly watering encourages deep root growth for stronger grass that has less room for weeds.

Water early
Watering your lawn early in the morning allows the grass to dry before nightfall, lessening the likelihood of fungus that thrives in damp grass.

Mow correctly
Be sure you have sharp blades because dull blades rip the grass, weakening its defenses. Set the blades at a height of 3 inches as this will increase root strength and shade out many weeds.

Use organic fertilizers
Many commercial fertilizers can get washed away before the lawn can use the nitrogen, potentially polluting bodies of water.

Add clover
I can hear a lot of eyebrows snapping up. “Add clover? I’m trying to get rid of it!” The folks at SPCP recommend adding clover to your lawn. Reason? It’s drought-tolerant, immune to many diseases and “greens up” all summer. Additionally, it just might distract bunnies from nibbling on your perennials.

Natural fertilizers
Seek out natural fertilizers, such as corn gluten that can be an effective pre-emergent weed control. Here’s the part you didn’t want to hear: Get a sturdy weeding tool and go after the weeds, but do it for short periods on a regular basis, instead of trying to do it all at once. I would suggest that you make this an early-morning activity, before the sun starts baking your back.

Finally, says the SPCP, try not to focus so much on a totally green lawn; instead make it your goal to have a healthy lawn that will naturally resist drought and disease.

My personal opinion is that a naturally healthy soil is the best foundation for lawns and virtually all other plants. I like to use organically-based products such as Turf Tea Magic. You can probably find it online by searching via Google, or drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll forward you some information.

Correction: In a recent column titled “Vanishing bees: a problem for gardeners and farmers” there was a typographic error in the Web address for the Natural Resources Defense Council. The correct address is http://www.nrdc.org/OnEarth and it’s a great resource if you need to know more about bees and the dangers of diminishing bee population. My apologies for the error!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Meet the beetles. And say goodbye to them!

If you are having problems with certain kinds of beetles who are uninvited guests in your landscape, you’ll want to read these two recent e-mails from readers.

QUESTION: “I am hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem I am seeing this year with my lily plants. I have many lilies around my home in New England of different varieties. Many of these are being eaten by what I believe is a Lily Leaf Beetle. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these little pests from doing further damage to my plants? I have heard that Bayer Rose and Flower spray can help with this problem.” – Lynn

ANSWER: Yes, the Bayer rose spray would work but you may want to try an organic remedy. I have a friend who sprayed his plants with a sugar water mixture (spray bottle with water and enough sugar added that will dissolve and stay in solution.) The beetles will eat the sugar but cannot digest it. After gorging themselves they will fly off to die. Just a thought that may work.

> From one type of beetle to another. Recently, I received the following

e-mail with a comment about an answer I’d given in a previous Plant Man column.

“Just wanted to comment on your reply to the question regarding Japanese beetles attacking linden trees. Your suggestion to use the peaches in a milk jug is very similar to other Japanese Beetle traps (Bag-a-bug) which use pheromones to lure the beetles. However, these traps do more harm than good in my opinion unless you place them far, far away from the plants they're intended to protect. They lure more than they catch.

“The best approach is to apply Milky Spore to turf grass in the surrounding areas where the beetle grubs reside. As the grubs are infected, they decompose and release billions of new spores which eventually results in long term control of the Japanese beetle problem. Our community is currently implementing a plan to treat all common areas and encourage all residents to treat their yards. In the interim, there are various insecticides if you're not opposed to chemicals (such as Bayer Advanced) that can be watered into the soil at the base of the tree and once absorbed move up through the tree to provide protection against Japanese beetles.” – Jasmine Jensen

ANSWER: Thank you for your suggestion, Jasmine. I’d like to learn more about what your community is doing in this regard. For readers who are not familiar with Milky Spore, you can find some very useful information online at a Web site hosted by the USDA titled “Managing the Japanese Beetle.” The address is http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html but the easiest way to get there is to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org and you can click on a direct link.

According to the USDA site, Milky Spore is the common name for spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This bacterium was first registered for use on turf in suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United States in 1948.
Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub's gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.
Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2-4 years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, and die, each releasing 1-2 billion spores back into the soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development of large beetle populations.

As Jasmine has discovered, it works best when applied in community-wide treatment programs. If you think you have a Japanese beetle problem, you’ll find an enormous amount of information at the USDA site I mentioned. They have also included a list of “best” and “worst” plants to have in your yard if Japanese beetles are a matter of concern. Check with your extension agent regarding the availability of Milky Spore material.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

"Vanishing bees” a problem for gardeners and farmers

“Pesky bees!”

If you’ve ever said that as you swat away some critter flying around your face, the chances are that it isn’t really a bee at all. In fact, it’s more likely to be a yellow jacket, a hornet or a wasp. Domestic honey bees are relatively non-aggressive and, most important, are vital to the successful pollination of the plants in our gardens and a great deal more.

But it seems the humble bee could be in danger, according to an article in the Summer 2006 edition of OnEarth, the environmental magazine published quarterly by the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC).

The article, by author Sharon Levy, suggests that domesticated honeybees and their native counterparts, on which the nation depends to pollinate billions of dollars worth of fruits, vegetable and other crops, are disappearing thanks to pesticide use on crops and gardens and the destruction of their habitats.

Experts interviewed for the OnEarth article (“The Vanishing Bee”) blame the widespread use of pesticides by farmers who unintentionally poison domesticated honeybee colonies. Non-native species of parasitic mites are also deadly to honeybees.

For these reasons, claims the author, native wild bees will become even more important as pollinators, but they too are threatened because their habitats—natural woodlands, shrubs and flowers—have been decimated by relentless sprawl and development and by modern agriculture’s poor land-management practices.

One-third of the food Americans eat comes from crops that are pollinated by bees or other creatures, including butterflies, birds and bats, according to the article.

Without bees, many of the foods we enjoy – tomatoes, squash, peppers, apples and pears, for example – could disappear from our tables. Domesticated honeybees, in particular, are in steep decline. In the 1940s, American beekeepers had about 5 million colonies. Today, their colonies number about 2.3 million – and falling – while the demand for their services is increasing.

If you’d like to know more about this subject, go to http://www.hrdc.org/OnEarth and find “The Vanishing Bee” header. You can also click on a direct link when you go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under The Plant Man heading.

Doug Barasch, editor in chief of OnEarth describes bees as “the canaries in the coal mines,” because their potential demise is a warning to farmers and gardeners. But all is not lost (at least not yet) and the article recommends a number of solutions. These include limiting the use of chemical pesticides and setting aside space for plants that nurture bees.

Regular readers of this column know that, wherever possible, I recommend the use of organic solutions to garden and landscape problems. The declining bee population is just one more indication that ‘going organic’ isn’t just something of interest to aging hippies and “tree huggers”!

By the way, if you’re concerned about the potential incursion of so-called “Africanized” aggressive bees, most experts believe that the continued maintenance of a thriving domestic honeybee population is our best defense.

But what about the real pests?

If you are having a problem with hornets and yellow jackets, you’d probably like some advice on what you should do about them. One highly practical article, written by the experts at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension can be found at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/horn-yj.htm and because it’s such a long address, you might prefer to click on a direct link from this column at my Web site.

Among the defensive suggestions: coat the landing areas of hummingbird feeders with petroleum jelly vapor chest rub to keep the yellow jackets away. Also, make sure trash cans are kept covered at all times.

The article describes how – as a last resort – you can destroy a colony, but suggests you might be better just to let the critters die out naturally in the late fall, unless the nest is dangerously close to your home or garden.

Your comments, suggestions and questions are always welcome, and I’m happy to offer personal suggestions for any landscape or garden problems you’re having... hopefully NOT bee stings!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

New Large Tree Roots Need Deep Watering

Many readers have contacted me regarding bug problems with their trees and I’ll get to a couple of recent bug-related questions in a minute. But first, a reader sent me an e-mail with a question about how best to water her new trees.

QUESTION: “HELP.....We have just planted some 12 foot Glory Maples and some 6 foot Norway Spruce. How much should water do they need? 2 gallons, 5 gallons, 15 gallons?? per day, every other day? per week? The trees are planted in Fairfax Virginia and our soil is clay and rocks...also how soon before we feed them and what do you suggest feeding them? Thank you for any help you can offer.” – Ann S.

ANSWER: I use a device called a Ross root feeder spike apparatus that you should be able to pick up at a garden center or hardware store. This is a spike that attaches to your hose and comes with watering instructions. I would deep water my trees every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season, using this Ross feeder.

Simply standing by your trees and spraying them with a hose or using a lawn sprinkler will not get down to the roots where the water is needed. If you deep water the roots every 2 to 3 weeks during this first season you will be fine until fall. Fertilizing these trees can be done at any time. If you’re using the feeder, you can buy fertilizer tabs that dissolve and go right to the roots through the feeder.

If you decide not to use a root feeder, try a time-release triple-13 fertilizer or something comparable. Use about ½ to 1 cup around the base of the tree but come out about 14 to 16” from the trunk.

QUESTION: Several years ago I bought 25 hybrid poplar. Within 1 and 1/2 years they grew 15 ft tall and were just beautiful, but this year they got holes going in a circle half way up looking like a woodpecker had got at them. They leaved out beautifully half way up the tree, however the rest of the buds on the tree did not open although they are not dead. We put some kind of
tree paint from our nursery that was black and the holes (which I think are due to some kind of borer) have stopped moving up.

My question is what do we do with the 5ft of bare tree in the middle? Do we cut it or leave for the tree to recover... or will it? Any help you can give us would be appreciated as we do not want to lose our beautiful trees as they line our 4 acre property. We live up in the middle of the mountains and people always stop to admire our trees. – Roberta W.

ANSWER: Don’t despair! This should be fairly simple. You need to cut out the dead section
down to the green wood. Once the dead is removed the tree will start a process of putting on more top growth. Send a picture through email if you can.

QUESTION: “What is the best what to rid my trees of bagworms?” – John D

ANSWER: The first thing you have to do when you see them is to clip them off the branches, put in a bag and take them somewhere to burn them. Afterwards you need to spray the plants with an insecticide, such as Monterey Garden Insect Spray, about once every 30 to 45 days. Usually, you’ll only need to do this two times per growing season. Follow the direction on the bottle to make sure your particular plants are okay with the chemical.

Turn wet land into spectacular bog garden

If a certain area of your landscape looks like the Okefenokee swamp, don’t throw in the towel (or anything else, either). Mother Nature has handed you a great opportunity: build your own bog garden!

Where to begin? Obviously, you’ll want to select a site that is low-lying so that moisture will naturally gravitate towards it. If you have a natural ‘basin’ with soil that consists mainly of clay, you probably won’t need much more than a trickle of water to maintain sufficient moisture. At last! A good reason for clay soil!

However, in most cases – particularly when the soil has fairly good drainage – you’ll want to excavate your site somewhat. The depth of the initial excavation should be between one and two feet.

As for the outline of the bog garden, use the old landscaper’s trick: lay a rope or a garden hose on the ground roughly in the desired shape, then move it in or out until you get the exact outline you want. Use a fork or spade to go around the perimeter making the initial cuts, following the rope or hose. Dig down to the soil to the desired depth, piling the soil on a tarp to protect the surrounding lawn.

Now this is where bog garden enthusiasts fall into two different camps: those who like to line the bottom of the excavated hole and those who prefer to use purely ‘natural’ materials.

One proponent of the ‘natural’ style suggests spreading a little clay as the base of your excavation. Over this, add a five-inch layer of rubble or large stones, then fill to a couple of inches below the adjacent grade level with a mixture of half loam and half leaf-mold or peat.

Most ‘liner’ advocates will tell you to line the hole with 4- to 6-mil plastic sheeting, preferably a single sheet, rather than two or more overlapping sheets. Center the liner and push it snugly all around the hole and up the sides, leaving a generous amount as a “collar” all around the edges. Punch some holes around the perimeter because, although the whole idea is to keep it moist, you don’t want a semi-pool of stagnant water.

Add a couple of inches of moist sand over the plastic sheeting. Then continue filling with a mixture of one part sand and three parts peat moss, well dampened, to within a couple of inches of the top of the hole. You can trim the liner collar, but leave about 12 inches all around to allow for further settling. You can cover the exposed liner with rocks, soil, pine needles or mulch if you wish.

So should you use a liner or not? It’s a personal choice, but much will be determined by your specific soil conditions and terrain. In either case, it’s hard to go terribly wrong, assuming you start with a natural basin that tends to collect moisture.

I’m happy to help you with any questions you might have, so feel free to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org You can also research online and here are two resource where you can begin: http://www.pitcherplant.com/bog_making.html and the Brooklyn Botanical Garden Web site http://www.bbg.org/ where you can type Bog Garden into the search window.

You can click on direct links to both sites when you find this column archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org

What can you plant in your bog garden? Again you’ll find a lot of ideas online and there are literally hundreds of plants to choose from. Here are just a few ranging from tall to small: (approx mature height in inches)

Bamboo (150), Great Reed (100), Cow Parsnip (100), Pampas Grass (70), Goat’s Beard (50), Japanese Iris (36), Siberian Iris (20), Dwarf Knot Grass (15), Marsh Marigold (12), Bog Pimpernel (4), Moneywort/Creeping Jenny (4)... and SO many more!

Do some research and turn your mini-swamp into a delightful bog garden!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Landscape architect: a good investment for big projects

Landscape architect: a good investment for big projects

Designing your landscape can be a fun and rewarding project. But sometimes it makes sense to utilize the skill and experience of a professional, particularly when the project is quite extensive. The more you tell the architect about your vision, the better they will be able to design the landscape of your dreams.

Here’s a recent e-mail from a reader that brought that situation to my mind:

QUESTION: “I’m trying to figure out how to sculpture stairs on a hill in back of my house. This is a grassy hill that I don’t want to mow anymore. I have planted four apple trees so far but still have a lot of hill left. The stairs are what is bothering me: how to manage landscaping timbers or something that will look good and fit in. My house is set on rolling hills and the first hill is the problem I am thinking of a bird bath, flowers and ground cover. Can you help with ideas?” – Elizabeth Malloy

ANSWER: Stairs and graduated landing areas would provide much more interest than a rolling lawn. You might want to consider asking for professional advice from a landscape architect. It is not that expensive to get a plan drawn. However, it can get more expensive when you use them to execute the plan rather than treating it as a DIY project. We use the services of a landscape architect every time before we begin a project. If you plan to do the actual work yourself, be sure to tell the architect who can then fit the design to your skill level.

QUESTION: “Your column is a great resource. Thank you! I am trying to coordinate a small landscaping project for a woman at our church who has just finished chemotherapy (it worked, she is in remission). I have had the soil tested, and have done some research on the best native plants to put in. The soil doesn't appear to need much except compost. We want to dig new beds and plant three shrubs in one bed, ground cover in the second and decorative grasses in the third. What is the best way to get rid of the weeds in these new areas?

Also, would it be more efficient (because I'm working with a group of people and this garden has to be absolutely low-maintenance) to dig, improve or buy bags of garden soil. Thanks for your help.” – Debra Locke

ANSWER: There are a number of ways to get rid of the weeds. However, I would recommend the following. First of all, it’s important to check that you have good drainage in the beds. For the shrub bed, lay down a weed barrier mat that you can find at most garden centers. Cut an x in each location where you will plant the three shrubs. Dig the holes and plant shrubs per the supplier’s directions, then cover the weed mat with mulch.

For the ground cover bed, an alternative process would be to lay down the weed barrier mat, cover it with mulch and/or a layer of soil, then plant your ground cover directly in it. For the bed allocated to grasses, my advice would be to handle it like the shrub bed. However, of course, you’ll be cutting more x’s.

The mats are a good way to eliminate the need to deal with any of the old weeds. If the existing soil has been tested and appears to be of good quality, you can use that, possibly augmenting it with purchased topsoil. Good luck with your project!

QUESTION: “I have a Chinese Fringe Tree and this is the second year in the ground. Last year it bloomed but not this year. Do you have any suggestions. The tree is healthy and growing.” – Carolyn Sanders

ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I do not have a really good answer for the question but will give a stab at it anyway! One possible cause could be fertilizing the tree too much, giving it all it wants and more. Reason: nitrogen produces lots of foliage but tends to cut down on the blooms. Another possibility could be that it set bud early and then went through a late freeze, killing the buds and not allowing blooms to form.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Damp soil? Here are seven plants with wet feet!

So you have soggy soil and everything you plant seems to sink in the mud or drown? Why fight Mother Nature when you can go with the flow? Instead of trying to force unsuitable plants to adapt to your damp conditions, pick plants that love getting their feet wet!

In the previous Plant Man column, I discussed plants that should be on your list if you have soil or weather conditions that is on the dry side. If you missed that one you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org

Today we’re at the other end of the moisture scale: looking at plants that are singin’ in the rain!

Sedges and rushes You might not find Moses in your bulrushes, but if you’re familiar with the story, you remember that rushes can be found beside water so you know they like the environment. Sedges are similar to grasses but there’s a simple way to tell the difference: the stem of a grass is flat or round while the sedge stem is more triangular. Bulrushes are distinguished from other sedges by their substantial height and can make a spectacular statement adjacent to your water feature.

Weeping willow (Salix babylonica
There are few sights more tranquil than a graceful weeping willow with its many long, thin branches hanging to the ground in pendulous curtains, ruffled by a gentle breeze. The babylonica is very adaptable and thrives in moist soil as well as in its traditional location, beside lakes and rivers. It grows quickly to a mature height of around 50 ft with a matching spread.

Red Twig dogwood (Cornus sericea)
One of the few plants that remain colorful in the winter, due to the distinctive deep red branches, this dogwood also boasts delightful white blossoms in May and glowing red berries in the fall. It has high moisture needs, so the Red Twig could be a good choice for a location with consistently moist soil. Mass several as a shrub border in a residential landscape or utilize its soil-retention properties as bank cover. Red Twig grows quite quickly to a modest and manageable height of 3 ft to 6 ft.

Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
You might have seen this majestic beauty alongside water hazards and lakes at golf courses and country clubs. You might also have cursed it when the little white ball ricocheted off the trunk to plop into the water. But keep the Bald Cypress in mind if you have a moderately wet area in need of a stately enhancement. It should mature between 50 and 75 ft and is fairly tolerant of salt and alkali soils.

Peve Minaret
This is the little cousin of the Bald Cypress. With its lush fern-like foliage (turning to yellow-orange in the fall) and its dwarf habit, the Peve Minaret is a real attention-getter. Because it thrives in regular to wet soils, it would be a good choice near a pond or as a foundation plant or as an unusual hedge. It’s an adaptable and low-maintenance dwarf tree (rising to around 8 ft at most) that isn’t easy to find but worth the search. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you’re having trouble locating a source.

River Birch (Betula nigra)
This birch seems to adapt very well to urban and suburban environments. It is aptly named, doing well in “riparian (wet) zones” but also able to hang on through modest droughts. I love the texture of the peeling, flaky, cinnamon-brown bark. At maturity, it should reach 50 to 70 feet in height.

Lily of the Kings (Iris pseudacorus)
This really is an Iris of wet places... frequently found edging small ponds and streams or growing marshy areas. It is sometimes called Yellow Flag and is reputed to be inspiration for the fleur-de-lis heraldic symbol of French royalty. Some gardeners plant Lily of the Kings in a container of rich potting soil and place it directly into a shallow pond.

Wet soil... dry soil... there are trees and shrubs that look great, if you pick the ones that are best suited to your environment.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org




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Dry soil? Six plants that will brighten your landscape

For farmers, there are only two kinds of rainfall: too much and not enough. Those of us who are into gardening and landscaping can sympathize with that! However, unlike farmers, most of us don’t have thousands of acres to worry about. That means we can concentrate our efforts on finding plants that can withstand the prevailing weather conditions in our (relatively) small patch of soil.

The Plant Man’s simple rule of (green) thumb? Select trees and shrubs whose characteristics match the USDA plant hardiness zone where you live and the specific moisture conditions of your landscape.

However much you have your heart set on a plant you saw in Taos, New Mexico, it probably won’t thrive in your front yard if you live in the Pacific northwest. Similarly, plants that grow lush and verdant in high-precipitation areas are probably doomed in sun-baked Arizona.

In my next column, I’ll discuss some trees and shrubs that would be suitable for planting in soil that ranges from moist to swampy. But today, let’s think about plants that do just fine in dry soil conditions or can handle lower than average precipitation.

A word of caution: although they incline towards the dry side of the flora spectrum, none of the plants described here are truly “drought proof.”

Austrian Pine
If you have dry, rocky or windy conditions and soil that is anything from limestone to acidic, this is probably the tree for you. It looks good as a stand alone or you can plant them about 6 ft apart to form a screen or a windbreak. Even in poor, sandy soil, it grows quickly to 75 -100 ft.

Princeton Elm
Resistant to the dreaded Dutch Elm disease, the Princeton seems to do well in a wide range of weather conditions from the bitter cold of northern plains to the sweltering heat of Texas. A majestic, fast-growing shade tree.

Redbud “Don Egolf”
The horticulturist Don Shadow brought this new cultivar to my attention and he tells me that it tolerates many different soil types and is especially good in areas that tend to be dry. Don Egolf produces remarkable rosy-mauve blooms and is ideal for smaller gardens, maturing at a height of about 9 ft with a 9ft spread.

By the way, if you have trouble tracking down any of the plants I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll see if I can help you.

Honeysuckle, Reynolds Red
This prized cultivar of tartarian honeysuckle puts out bright red blooms in the spring and makes a beautiful and fragrant natural hedge. It creates a delightful (and effective) windbreak and withstands drought and extreme temperatures, doing fine in salt or alkali soil.

Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’
This isn’t strictly drought resistant, but I’ve included it because it’s a low-growing plant that looks so good in a rock garden or between stones in a dry stone wall and does just fine in full sun and dryish, well-drained soil. It has brilliant magenta, clove-scented blooms and silvery-blue evergreen foliage.

Sedum Golden Carpet
If you want an attractive groundcover but are stuck with dry, sandy soil, look for Golden Carpet, one of the hardiest of the Sedums. The bright yellow blooms look great cascading over artfully placed rocks.

“Your results may vary,” as they say on TV, and when in doubt, opt for plants that are native to your geographic area rather than seeking out exotics. As always, send me an a-mail with a few details such as location, soil type and desired results and I will be happy to respond with some specific comments and suggestions.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Create a haven of privacy with the right trees and shrubs

Ah, privacy! If you live on a ranch in Wyoming or in a cabin in the wilds of Montana, that’s probably not a problem. But if you’re like most of us, you have neighbors quite close on each side of you and maybe overlooking the back of your lot as well.

Even if you’re smack in the middle of suburbia surrounded by other homes, there IS some good news. You don’t have to build a 15 foot brick wall around your perimeter just to secure your privacy. After all, who wants to live in Fort Knox without the gold?

In the previous Plant Man column, I described ways that trees and shrubs can help to insulate your home and garden from noise pollution, wind and heat, making your life more comfortable and your utility bills less demanding. If you missed that column you can find it archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org

But as modern homes are being built closer and closer together, concerns about privacy become even more pressing for many of us. Fortunately, there are a number of “green” solutions that can provide the private haven you want without taking the ugly route.

The following e-mail is a case in point. It was fielded by my wife Cheryl.

QUESTION: “I live in a lovely cul de sac neighborhood, but I live on the corner and my whole yard is exposed, mainly the whole backyard. The lot is 3/4 acres and the house faces north. So rather than putting up an ugly wood fence, I was wondering if I could create some type of natural fence when I came across an article at your Web site.

“I mainly want to close in the backyard on the northeast side and half way across the back property line. The rest opens to neighbors whose kids play with my kids, and to forest in the back. If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear about them.” – Barry Preising

ANSWER: If the house across from yours has landscaping on the exposed area along the street, you may want to do something similar to keep a balanced look in the neighborhood. Should there be no house there or if they don’t have any landscaping, here are a couple of thoughts.

Rather than the straight uniform look of a hedge, plant in groupings of plants (trees, shrubs and perennials) or a graduated hedge with breaks along the way. Beginning toward the front part of the property, plant a low growing hedge (rosa rugosa, burning bush or even ornamental grasses) along the first 1/3 of the length breaking up the plants every 20 to 30 feet with a green giant or another evergreen tree. For the next 1/3, plant a taller growing hedge such as hibiscus, clumping bamboo, or Canadian hemlock (kept at about 8 feet tall). Along the back 1/3, plant a tall growing evergreen hedge of cedar green giants or similar.
Planting a hedge in S-form in an interesting way to create a hedge without it being completely straight. When planting using this method, add smaller growing shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses in the indented areas. Using a partial fence area works great as well. The fence blocks the area you want to keep most private and then landscape with varied plants on each end as far as necessary to carry out the visual of the fence. I hope you can use one of these suggestions.

I believe the column that Barry referred to was titled “Use trees and shrubs to define your landscape.” You can find it at http://www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/6613 if you need more information on this subject. Alternatively, drop me an e-mail, like Barry did, with some specifics about the problem you’re wrestling with. I’ll respond personally and your question might appear in a future column or in my newsletter.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Three ways trees make your life easier, more comfortable

Trees. Do you plant them on your property so you can enjoy their growing beauty over many years while adding to the value of your home in the future real estate market? Nothing wrong with that! But in addition to aesthetics, trees provide three very practical benefits that add to your comfort and well-being... and even save you some of your hard-earned money.

Trees create a sound barrier
Living close to persistent noise can make you sick. In addition to the possibility of hearing loss, noise has been shown to cause stress, tension and anxiety. If your home is close to a noise source, such as a highway or an industrial complex, planting a “noise buffer” consisting of trees and shrubs can reduce noise by 5 to 10 decibels, effectively reducing the sound by up to 50% to the human ear.

According to an excellent Web site hosted by Agroforestry, the best results are obtained when the noise buffer is planted as close as possible to the source of the noise (rather than close to the area you wish to protect).

The Agroforestry site also recommends planting the trees and shrubs as close together as the species will allow. Additionally, choose plants with dense foliage, preferably foliage that is growing all the way to the ground. As you might guess, evergreen trees provide better year-round noise reduction.

If noise is giving you a migraine, I recommend a visit to http://www.agroforestry.net/overstory-back-issues/20-overstory-236-using-agroforestry-to-buffer-noise where you can find more detailed planting information to various noise pollution problems.

Trees provide wind protection
If you are troubled by blowing dust and debris around your home, thoughtfully planted trees can reduce the problem. But reducing the effect of wind on your home can also keep some dollars in your pocket.

Research conducted on the Great Plains has shown that up to 25 percent energy savings for heating is possible from windbreaks. An evergreen, properly placed, can divert cold winds away from the home. Locate the windbreak upwind from the home, according to advice from the Colorado State University Co-operative extension. http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/landscaping-for-energy-conservation-7-225/ 

To reduce wind velocity, the recommended distance from your house is between and three times tree height (at maturity) but you’ll still reap wind-reducing benefits from trees planted at a distance of up to six tree heights.

Trees provide shade
Before you say “Duh,” I’m not just referring to the shade you enjoy while sipping lemonade in your hammock. Your home benefits from being shaded from the heat of the sun, and trees are a natural sunshade.

Carefully positioned shade trees can save up to 25% of a household's energy consumption for heating and cooling, according to computer models created by the U.S. Department of Energy. They estimate that the proper placement of only three trees would save an average household between $100 and $250 in energy costs annually.

While you’re at it, create some shade for that air-conditioning unit that’s chugging away under the broiling summer sun.

In a nutshell, trees can reduce the headache-inducing effects of noise, the nuisance of wind and the size of your utility bills.

Which specific trees and shrubs should you plant to achieve one or more of these results? In many cases, this will depend on your geographic location and any unique contributing factors that affect your landscape. If you’re unsure about what would work best for your particular situation, send some of your details in an e-mail to info@greenwoodnursery.com and we’ll do our best to reply with some suggestions.

Another benefit of trees? Privacy! And that’s the subject of next week’s Plant Man column!

This article was also featured in the Plant Man Column.

Dogwoods, cedars or shrubs: spouses have different ideas!

Sometimes, the questions I receive are more concerned with “domestic relationships” than with the specific landscape problems they describe. Two people who agree on most everything can have very differing opinions concerning what to plant around the home they share...

QUESTION: “We have a 1/4 acre lot our house sets on, two neighbors to the side, a busy road directly behind us with only a berm to separate us, and a brand new below ground pool we just had put in right in the middle of our backyard.

“At first, I wanted to put dogwoods along the berm, but have since then noticed they don't stay the size we need to get the privacy we want. Then I found these Thuja Green Giants we could put along two sides of our yard; the berm to hide the road, and the neighbor without a fence. With
that formal of a backyard, there is no way I can feel out of place playing badminton in my white pole shirt and pants on a sunny day drinking lemonade, right?

“But now I have another problem, and no it's not that my wife hates playing badminton. She doesn't like the thought of the Thuja Green Giants for some reason. She's thinking tall grasses and short deciduous trees of some sort, with small shrubs and flowers beneath them across the entire berm. So now what? Back to square one, huh?

“Could you give us some pointers and perhaps guide us in the right direction on how we should handle our privacy issue? We've been reading up on what things we could do for quite a while, but have not yet come to a solution. Thanks for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.” – Nathan

ANSWER: Well, at the risk of sounding as if I’m “sitting on the fence,” you both could be correct. Yours an easy solution – planting the Green Giants – but her solution has more variety and texture. Grasses are good; maybe some of the flowering shrubs such as Knockout roses. Another thought would be to mix in some Bamboo. Use these mostly as background plants and then put in a host of perennials for investment-type landscaping. The perennials come back larger and stronger year after year while providing different seasons of blooms. If you wish to put in some ornamental smaller trees you may want to look at the Velma's Delight dwarf crape myrtle. I hope this helps you agree on a solution!

QUESTION: “I have some burning bushes in the front of my home. They no longer have any leaves on the bottom of the bush. If I trim them will they come back again, or will I harm them? I thought maybe you could help me out.” – Sandra Shinkey

ANSWER: You don’t mention the age of your shrubs, but burning bush plants become leggy as they age. Trimming doesn’t generally help this situation. They may have fulfilled their purpose in the landscape and may need to be replaced.

If age isn’t it, a few other common problems of this plant variety are disease, pests and nutritional deficiencies.

Due to the heat last spring/summer, spider mites were a huge pest causing many customers with burning bushes in their landscapes to become concerned. Once they leaf out, you can hold a white sheet of paper under some of the leaves and tap the branch lightly. If spider mites are the cause, they will fall onto the paper. Then, visit your local hardware store for their recommendation on a pesticide to treat the plants.

Burning bush prefer full sun, but will grow in other situations. The more sun they receive, the deeper red the leaves in late summer/early fall.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Small spaces can bask in colorful trees, too

Color, it seems, is high on the list of priorities for gardening and landscaping enthusiasts. After last week’s column about vividly colorful flowering trees, I received a lot of e-mails from readers essentially saying, “Tell me more!”

Because not everyone has a yard the size of Central Park, my suggestions today focus on trees that work well in smaller-scale areas.

Red Bud Forest Pansy

If you’re searching for a colorful tree that wouldn’t overpower a smaller garden, take a look at the Forest Pansy. The tiny, delicate leaves emerge in spring and suddenly you see a brilliant display of deep maroon-red ‘confetti’ that will last all through summer, turning to yellow in the fall.

Because the Red Bud Forest Pansy will only attain a height of 20 ft or so at maturity, with a spread of around 15 ft, it has the right scale for a modestly-sized area. It has a moderate growth rate and prefers sun to partial sun and well-drained soil.

Red Bud Lavender Twist

While we’re thinking about Red Buds, let’s not forget this unusual variety. The good news is that it’s easy to grow. The bad news? It’s not easy to find. Essentially, the Lavender Twist is a weeping form of the native Red Bud with contorted stems and shoots arching to produce an umbrella-shaped crown.

When it comes to color, the lavender-pink flowers stand out in bright contrast against the dark stems in spring before the leaves emerge. Even after the flowers have gone, the blueish-green foliage is very pleasing to the eye. If you have a spot that gets the early sun then partial shade for the rest of the day, you have the perfect location for a Lavender Twist, particularly if the soil is somewhat moist but well drained. Again, a good candidate for modest-sized lots, topping out between 6 and 10 ft with the gnarled limbs spreading 5 to 8 ft wide.

Sourwood tree

This is one of our favorites. Cheryl and I enjoy the sight of the drooping panicles of brilliant white flowers that begin around the middle of summer and persist into autumn. Sourwood’s foliage puts on one of the most spectacular fall displays of any tree, often transitioning from orange to brick red to flaming scarlet!

A Sourwood looks good as a specimen and works well in small groupings, too. Select a lightly-shaded location that has moist, acid, well-drained soil and incorporate some organic material to give it a good start.

Cherry “Akebono”

In the previous column, I described the cherry known as “First Lady.” If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and find the “flowering trees” column under the Plant Man heading. The Akebono is another of my favorites.

In the spring, the Akebono sports fluffy clouds of delicate pink flowers that are even more brightly tinted than the better known Yoshino variety, famous for the annual blossom display in Washington, DC. A good choice for admirers of spectacular cherry blossoms.

Tree-form Persian Lilac

Plant a pair of these tree-form Persian Lilacs to accent the entrance to your garden or to frame a walkway and you might find your landscape drawing admiring glances from neighbors and passers-by.

Good things certainly can come in small packages and this little fellow will probably not exceed 6 ft in height at maturity. I really like the abundant blooms with their pale lilac color and distinctive fragrance. This one is quite rare. If you can’t find it, try Googling “tree form Persian Lilac” or send me an e-mail and I’ll send you some shopping information.

Whatever the size of your landscape, from tiny to vast, you can enjoy colors that go beyond green!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

Flowering trees add vivid bursts of color

For me, at this time of year, nothing lifts my spirits quite like the sight of the beautiful flowering trees that Cheryl and I have planted over the years as part of our landscape. And it’s not just our trees. Driving around the neighborhood I can see splashes of crimson, pink and snow white where, only a few weeks ago there were only greys and muted browns.

Maybe you’ve seen some colorful trees that really delighted you, but you weren’t sure what they were exactly and so you couldn’t your own specimens or even investigate them online.

Here is a quick glance at some of the most spectacular and breathtaking flowering trees (at least in my opinion!) that should help you identify your favorites as you plan some eye-popping color for your own landscape!

Crape Myrtle “Dynamite”

Let’s start with a bang: This thing really does look like an explosion, the vivid red blooms bursting outwards as if caught in a freeze-frame by an action movie director. As you can tell, I really like this one!

I first saw this particular Myrtle variety while leaving a drive-through restaurant and immediately circled back to take a photo. With some detective work, I tracked down the plant to a nearby nursery wholesaler and just had to buy a few for our own landscape!

It grows quickly, is fairly mildew-resistant and reaches a mature height of between 10 and 20 feet. You can use it as a colorful border or screen, but I like to see them planted in groups of three, about 15 ft apart.

Cherry “First Lady” (Prunus campanulata okame x)

The name “First Lady” makes sense as soon as you see this cherry tree. It is slim, elegant and regal, reminding me of Jackie Kennedy or Nancy Reagan in front of the White House. The upright shape makes it a good choice where “spread” is an issue: expect a mature height of maybe 20 ft and a spread of 15 ft.

The bell-shaped flowers appear in mid April with a vibrant hue somewhere between deep pink and red. The blooms look stunning against the glossy, dark green leaves (which will turn to a warm yellow in the fall). First Lady grows quite quickly and does fine in full or partial sun or shade.

Venus Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa nuttalli)

This is a rare one but definitely worth seeking out, particularly if you like a dogwood with large (as in HUGE) flowers. A single creamy white bloom can entirely cover a man’s hand. It grows to about 20 ft tall and appears to be resistant to dogwood anthracnose and mildew.

The Venus was produced by Dr. Elwin Orton, Jr, a plant breeder at Rutgers University. It’s new and not easy to find. Try typing dogwood kousa venus into Google or send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll help you.

Magnolia Sweetbay

This is probably my favorite magnolia because of the creamy white blossoms nestled in the vibrant, glossy green foliage. The blossoms give off a distinctive, almost lemony scent that seems evocative of an earlier, less hurried era.

Cheryl and I planted a Sweetbay near our mailbox so we could enjoy the fragrance and sight of the blossoms every morning from spring through late summer as we went out to pick up our mail. Sweetbay is evergreen to semi-evergreen and is tolerant of most soil from moist to wet in zones 5 through 9. Expect a mature height of 30 to 50 ft.

Those are just four of my personal flowering favorites. In a future column, I’ll review some more to help you add a vivid splash of color to your own outdoors. Meanwhile, drop me an e-mail if you need some personal suggestions for brightening up your landscape.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org