Groundcovers provide solutions for many landscape problems

A good groundcover can be a landscaper’s best friend, but despite being a relatively simple family of plants, there can still be some confusion and misunderstanding. This seems like a good time to take a look at the pros and cons of groundcovers and how and when to use them.

At its most basic, a groundcover is a plant that spreads out horizontally, rather that sprouting up vertically like most other plants.

As for the pros and cons, the benefits definitely outnumber the disadvantages. The main “con” to be aware of is that certain groundcovers can spread out further than you intended. Before planting any groundcover, check into its invasive tendencies, if any, and be prepared to corral the area with a sturdy barrier such as lawn edging that you can find at most garden centers.

Now to the benefits of planting groundcovers.

Groundcover plants provide a thick, attractive mat of foliage that suppresses the growth of weeds. This is a major advantage if you dislike weeding!

For the most part, groundcovers are the low-maintenance heroes of the garden world. You can almost set ‘em and forget ‘em. Almost.

Hilly or sloping areas can be difficult or dangerous to mow. Replacing sod with an alternative groundcover in these areas provides a safe and attractive solution.

Regular lawn grass around the base of trees can be patchy due to the shade, but a shade-loving groundcover such as Pachysandra terminalis can be an excellent alternative.

If soil erosion or moisture control are problems, a suitable groundcover could be your answer. As you can see, groundcovers can solve a lot of landscape problems.

When choosing the right groundcover for the site, you need to consider hardiness, size, growth rate, sun, shade, soil requirements, blooming time, and perhaps fall color. Be aware of the conditions of your land and select plants that meet those conditions and are best suited for any specific situations, such as hillside soil erosion. You are welcome to send me your particular groundcover questions and I’ll send you a personal response. My e-mail address is steve@landsteward.org

Now for a brief look at a few groundcovers you might find useful:

Pink Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)
Ideal for banks, slopes and difficult-to-mow hilly areas, it also looks good in rock gardens and atop retaining walls. Look for other varieties such as Emerald Blue or Candy Stripe.

Pachysandra terminalis
Just about the only plant that will grow successfully under pine trees or other spreading trees, against deeply shaded walls and in enclosed patios. It’s a low, dense, compact beauty that eliminates the need to mow around, and possibly damage, exposed tree roots.

Trailing Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
An excellent choice if you want a very low, trailing groundcover that does well in full sun, shaded or semi-shaded areas, particularly in rich, moist, evenly-drained soil. The dark green, oval-shaped foliage is a delightful background for the bright blue flowers that appear in early spring.

Elfin Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)
This one is ideal for planting between bricks or paving stones. As an added advantage, it is highly aromatic, providing the delightful scent of fresh thyme as well as tiny lavender flowers in the summer.

Purple Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)
If controlling erosion on a slope is a concern, this one is worth considering. It’s a dense, woody, broadleaf evergreen that grows from 6” to 9” tall and can spread indefinitely by rooting stems. It can also be trained into a climbing plant for covering walls or chimneys.

Planting groundcovers is not particularly complex. Generally, you will need to rid the soil of all weeds and debris, till the soil then mix in some organic matter such as compost or manure. Usually, you will plant groundcovers about a foot apart and then water regular for the first year until established. Be sure to follow specific planting directions, however, as the needs of different plants will vary.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Trim back plants to concentrate their energy

QUESTION: “This spring we had a hard freeze mid April that killed all tree and shrub greenery. All have thankfully recovered but the growth now is mostly new stems and sprigs especially on the crepe myrtles, rose of Sharon, and lilac. Do I trim back the new growth this winter so that the shrubs are not bushy? I’d really like to have no more than 3 stems to the crape myrtles and one main stem to the Roses of Sharon and lilac.” – Earlene

ANSWER: Simply select the stems you want to keep and trim back the others to the top of the soil. They should be fine and you will put more energy back into the remaining stems.

QUESTION: “I was wondering if you have a good solution for getting rid of ants that are all around and on my Tulip Poplars. I used Sevin on the lawn surrounding the tree but have been hesitant to use it on the tree. If you can help me it would be greatly appreciated.” – Brenda Stevens

ANSWER: One of the ladies here in the office, also named Brenda, had a severe ant problem recently in her back yard as well. She used Spectracide Bug Stop Indoor/Outdoor Insect Control around the area and it took care of the ant problem. Brenda noted that she saw a huge difference after the first spray, but she sprayed a second time to make sure. You should be able to find it at most any hardware store. The ants are attracted to the sweet sap in the tree.

QUESTION: “Last year I purchased several plants, four of which were viburnum. They are doing great but starting to get "leggy". When is the best time to trim them back and is there any special way to trim them?

“Also, I have many Black Eyed Susans in my yard and they are all starting to have black spots on their leaves, mainly the leaves closest to the ground.
Do I need to worry? The plants seem to be doing fine, just don't look as nice.

ANSWER: As you’ve found, viburnum is an easy plant to grow. In fact usually, the only issue is directing and managing the growth. As soon as possible after flowering, trim back and shape them to create a good framework while they are still young. Regarding the Black Eyed Susans, trim or pull away the affected leaves and you should be fine.

Now here are some comments from a reader responding to issues raised in previous columns…

“Steve, I read one person's concern that their peonies don't bloom. One thing that's certain to cause this problem is not enough sunlight. I bought an old house with lots of peonies on the half-acre grounds, and I think they were planted when the trees here were much smaller, giving the peonies more sun.

“I've also had some problems with peonies forming flower buds that don't open up. I've heard that the potassium in banana peels is good to remedy this. I dry all my banana peels during the winter, then grind everything but the stem with a coffee grinder, and keep the resulting powder in a tightly sealed jar for sprinkling around my peonies in the spring. I did get many more open blooms this year.” – Holly Helmstetter

Thanks for sharing that idea, Holly. If you remember a recent column about remedies for brown spots on the lawn caused by dog urine, you might find this additional comment from Holly amusing:

“I don't have any pets (except for the wild birds at my feeding station) but I find that people walking their dogs in our pretty little village will actually let their leashed dogs go up onto my property and do their business. I made a cutesy but effective sign, ornamented with flowers, that says, ‘I don't let my grandkids poop in your yard---please don't let your pooches poop in mine!’"

I hope your dog-walking neighbors take note, Holly!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Planning new home landscaping takes time, patience

Where to begin? When you move into a brand new house that is surrounded by nothing but an expanse of curling, just-laid sod or, even worse, rutted mud and construction debris, it can be hard to decide on the plants that will create your ideal landscape.

For some, there is a temptation to do a rush job in order to make the house look more like a home, digging beds almost at random and filling them with just about anything green. For others, the task is too overwhelming to contemplate and the landscape is pretty much left to Mother Nature.

The best solution, however, lies somewhere in between. Here are questions from two brand new home owners who are faced with this dilemma.

QUESTION: “Our house was just built; in fact it is still being finished up. It has a small front yard and wet lands in the back. We’re looking for something to spruce up the front lawn / patio area. Right now, there is nothing on the property so this will be a fresh start. I have attached 2 pictures of the house so you can see and maybe give me some idea of what I can do.

“Right now, the only thing I have in my mind would be a Japanese dwarf maple and maybe golden mops with barberry shrubs. The only reason I chose those was because of the burgundy color roof. The house itself is more of the khaki brown color.

“I have been racking my brain with this all week as to what I can do. I have no idea about planting so I feel I need something that requires little or low maintenance.” -- Sharon

ANSWER: From the photos you sent me, as a first step, I would recommend foundation plants or anchor plants on the corners. I would go with evergreens like arborvitae or holly.

I would also suggest Bamboo Green Panda. It will grow to a height of about 8 feet with deep green leaves and orange-red sheaths. Green Panda is a fargesia or “non-running” variety which means it is non-invasive and does not need to be contained. Another benefit is that Green Panda is fast-growing so you won’t have to wait long to get that “established” feel on your new landscape. We have this bamboo ourselves and have found it to be very easy to maintain.

You might want to take a look at some of the new dwarf Crape Myrtles like Pocomoke or Chickasaw to line the driveway or plant in front of the house. Some crimson pygmy Barberry shrubs would add some low-maintenance color, too.

I would get these first and then stand back and a take another look. Landscaping is a work in progress. I have found the best way is to plant a few plants, mulch them in, get grass going and then add as needed.

The next question was fielded by my wife Cheryl.

QUESTION: “This is the first house we've owned. Our back yard is needing some help to look better. We want to improve our yard little by little, so what's a perennial that would add some color to our yard?” -- Dick and Mel

ANSWER: The first thing that you should do is just live in your new home and enjoy it over the first year or so to begin planning your ideas of how you will be using your property on a long term basis.

You might not want to go to a large expense to add color to your landscape at this time as you may end up only changing the area. Using annuals, perennials and ornamental grasses grown in containers can brighten up your deck or patio areas. Specific varieties will depend on the amount of sunlight in your yard area.

As you and your family begin enjoying your new home, make drawings and notes about the different ways the property seems to be developing itself for use. As you do this the landscape will come into being, becoming easier to narrow down to trees, shrubs, ornamental grasses and other perennials.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Herb garden needs better drainage to thrive

Some plants seem to do just fine in clay soil, but for others you will need to provide much better drainage. Here’s a question from a reader who is faced with that problem.

QUESTION: “My hosta/herb garden is located directly behind my newly constructed home of 3 years on 7 open acres that used to be farm fields. The back of the house and garden face mostly eastward.

”The topography of the land is sloped with the house positioned at the top. When we built the home we added soil (clay) from the neighbor who just started building (as we were finishing), on "plastic" soil at the bottom of the hill which used to be a pond many years ago. I am assuming "plastic" and "clay" soils are the same or close.

”The hostas really don't seem to mind the soil, but I am finding out that as I add lavender and other herbs, they just don't like it. I put a rhododendron in as an accent but it too croaked.

”I thought about removing the soil and starting over, but that would be costly as the area is about 25 foot square, sits on top of the plumbing to the septic tank, and I do have some plants already established that would have to be temporarily removed....is there an amending solution that would be less expensive and stressful for my plants?” – Donna Hrenak

ANSWER: I can certainly relate to this question! We have an area beside our home where we built a garden area using fill from a pond we were digging at the time. So, basically, we used all fill and mostly clay.

For lavender we dug a trench about one foot deep, took out that soil and replaced it with a mixture of concrete sand and small amounts of soil. This allowed good drainage for the lavender. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant that does not need a lot of water. Most herbs will also need to be done the same way. In other parts of the garden I raised the soil level to about 4 foot creating berms. Most of the herbs that do well in our garden are planted there.

I did have drainage tiles put in around the garden about 2 foot into the soil that are exactly like drainage tiles for septic lines that move a lot of the runoff from hard rains to outside the garden area. However, the tile thing may not work for you because you are sitting on the septic line.

I can suggest a product that is organic that I use in compacted soil but needs to be done more then once a year. It’s called Prosper Soil Conditioner and it increases friability, resists crusting, allowing water and air to permeate soil However, this would be for general use. For the herbs and lavender and plants like that, I would suggest that you do what we did in the similar situation as described above.

QUESTION: “We have just built a new home and are trying to do the landscaping ourselves. We planted two dappled willows in the front on either side of a set of windows with a boxwood in the middle.

“Can we keep the dappled willows trimmed and shaped to where they will not overpower the boxwood and stay a medium sized shrub, or should we move them to the side of the house where they can get bigger? They look beautiful now but I heard they can get huge. I love the color and if at all possible would like them to be in the front.” – Lisa Minnick

ANSWER: You are correct in that it can reach a height of 15 to 20 feet, but if you keep it shaped and trimmed you should be able to manage it for quite a number of years.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landstewrd.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Start planning for fall planting

You might still be mopping you brow under a broiling August sun, but it’s already time to be making plans for fall planting.

For me, and for many other garden lovers, this is one of the most enjoyable times of the year. Rather like small children imagining the pile of colorfully-wrapped gifts they’ll find under the tree on Christmas morning, we look through catalogs or browse online and visualize vibrant clusters of showy shrubs that will burst forth next spring as a result of our fall planting.

But where do you begin?

Much as it’s fun to do your own detective work as you begin the hunt for the perfect landscape, it sometimes helps to have a few pointers to get your creative juices flowing. So here are some ideas for you. Some might be familiar, some might be quite new to you. But even if they aren’t quite your horticultural cup of tea, they might spark a few ideas of your own.

Physocarpus Summer Wine
Cheryl and I saw this plant at a nursery and went straight over to get an up-close look. It has deeply cut, dark red/crimson leaves, and we both agreed this would be an excellent deciduous shrub to place around yellow or bright green plants to provide dramatic contrast to their color. It creates its own contrast in the spring, however, when it bursts forth with sprays of white, button-like blooms.

Summer Wine is a relatively new Ninebark hybrid and we’ve found that it’s a strong grower but never leggy or out of control. Extremely hardy (to zone 3), it will reach a mature height of 4 to 6 feet and about the same width.

Spiraea Snow Storm
If you would enjoy the sight of brilliant white, closely-packed white blooms, akin to a snow storm in summer, this could be the shrub for you. The snow-white blooms with tiny pink centers appear from early to mid summer and make a nice contrast with the large, deep blue-green leaves that turn to a blazing orange red in the fall.

Snow Storm tops out at around 4 feet and prefers medium-moisture, well-drained soil.

Spiraea Magic Carpet
Sticking with the Spiraea family, consider Magic Carpet if you’d like to see deep pink flowers over bronze to light green foliage that is delicately tipped with red. This is a relatively small plant, reaching to a height of maybe 12 to 18 inches with a spread of about 24 inches, so you could also consider it for a ground cover that will reward you with colorful blooms from early to mid-summer. The foliage will turn to a russet brown that usually lasts until mid-November.

Magic Carpet produces the most vibrant color when exposed to full sun and is drought tolerant.

Abelia Silver Anniversary
This is a colorful deciduous shrub that is easy to grow and was a New National plant release for 2006. I particularly like this one because of its distinct silver to cream margined variegated foliage that form tight, neat groupings around the reddish-brown stems.

Blooming from late spring to early fall, Silver Anniversary will grow to about 1 to 3 feet in height, does just fine in full sun to moderate shade and is adaptable to many soil types with moderate moisture.

Climbing Hydrangea
If you’re looking for a climbing plant to enhance a large fence or pergola or to cover a less-than-beautiful wall, consider the Hydrangea petiolaris. It’s easy to grow, virtually care-free and long-lived, reaching heights (or lengths) of 60 to 80 feet.

Between May and July, it provides a show of creamy white flowers against a backdrop of rich green foliage and peeling bark. You might also use it as a ground cover or let it snake across and around the rocks of a rustic stone wall beside a garden pathway.

I hope I have given you food for thought. In the weeks ahead, I’ll come up with more suggestions, but if you’d like some personal help, e-mail me a few details about your landscape and what you hope to achieve and I’ll do my best to come up some ideas for you.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Waterlogged clay soil just won’t drain

One of the pleasures of writing this column is the feedback that I receive from you, the readers. Sometimes that feedback is a question about a problem with a tree or shrub. Sometimes, it’s a suggestion I can pass along to help another reader who has a garden issue. And sometimes, it’s a follow-up to something I’d written in an earlier column.

Today, I’ll pass on a reader’s idea to keep lawns free of doggy-related brown spots. But first, let’s talk about the importance of good soil drainage.

QUESTION: “I have just moved to a new subdivision and to dig the pond we had to rent a jack hammer. That’s how bad the clay is. We have also made a spot for a vegetable plot and a flower bed but the clay is a problem. My local nursery suggested raised beds but this would be difficult for the veg plot. They also said I could try gypsum and peat moss but didn’t mention how much. The flower bed is 8 feet round and the vegetable plot is about 30ft by 15ft. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.” – Aubrey Frost.

ANSWER: To drain correctly, soil needs something known as “large pore
space.” Soil with a clay content of 20% or more is said to be dominated by “small pore space.” This means water is slow to move or perhaps won’t move at all, causing the soil to become waterlogged.

Amending the soil with organic matter will certainly help, but as you’ve discovered, the biggest thing you will need to be concerned about is good drainage. Plants will grow in amended soil but have a tough time establishing in soil that remains compacted with no drainage.

I would remove some of the soil down to about 10 or 12 inches and put in drain tiles. It’s not as difficult as you may imagine if you do what they do when laying a drain field for a septic tank. Basically, it’s a series of drains feeding into one long one that takes the waters away from the planting beds, or at least down to where the soil percs.

If you plan to do this yourself, it’s a good idea to read up on it first.
You could start by looking at this online article on soil drainage published by the Colorado State University Extension:
http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/217.pdf There’s a direct link to that
site from this column archived at my Web site. You can find drain tile supplies at many home improvement stores.

There are some plants that can tolerate poorly drained soil. These include Arborvitae, Crape Myrtle, Butterfly Bush and some hollies such as Inkberry, Yaupon and Winterberry. However, amending the soil organically and improving the drainage will be the best long-term solution.

HI STEVE: “I am really proud of our creative solution to this (dog-damaged
lawn) problem! We have a Lab and six, soon to be seven, kiddos. We did not want the lawn to be a hazard zone, so when our puppy came home, we trained her by taking her out to a designated "potty spot" every time she had to go, out in the back of our yard. So the end result is that she always heads out to her "potty spot" and the lawn looks great and the kids stay out of her poo.” -- The Droke Family

ANSWER: Designating a specific area for a canine bathroom (and rewarding the dog after he or she uses it) is a great way to keep the rest of landscape free of urine-browned spots and nasty messes.

The Droke family trained their new puppy right from the start, but maybe some other readers found a way to teach an old dog new tricks! Send me an e-mail if you had any success in that area. If you want to read the original column, go to www.landsteward.org and find the one titled “Dog-damaged lawns need creative landscape solutions.”

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Mulch and compost helps drought-threatened trees

QUESTION: “My mother has an established Kwanzan Cherry tree. Last year the leaves turned yellow and dropped off prematurely and this year they are doing the same and are noticeably smaller than they have been in the past. Do you have any ideas what may be causing this. I would hate to have her lose the tree!” – A loving son.

ANSWER: With the extreme temperatures and drought that most of the country has experienced over the last couple of summers, trees and shrubs have been going into an early dormancy for protection. The leaves are smaller because they haven't had the chance to grow to full size.

During summers like this, I, too, notice trees of all types turning yellow and dropping their leaves. This will generally happen in late July and throughout August. There isn't a lot that can be done to prevent this happening.

However, it is always good to put a nice thick layer of mulch/aged compost mix around the base of the tree with a welled area immediately around the trunk. This will help to keep the root system cool and moist as well as decompose over the season adding much needed nutrients into the soil. Don't attempt to fertilize as it will only confuse the tree more and can be even more damaging. I hope this helps to explain what is going on.

QUESTION: “Last December I had several small trees planted at my new home. One is a maple. It is about 6 inches in diameter now and very healthy looking. Beautiful deep green leaf with no evidence of pests, fungus, etc. I have noticed on the trunk in the middle on one side, right under the last branch, some cracking of the bark, not just peeling. Should I wrap that spot or just leave it alone? Also when should I fertilize it and also the crabapple trees that were planted the same time? “ – Victoria Smith

ANSWER: Bark splitting is a common problem. I have included a link here from the Virginia Tech Extension site on just that. The article tells how bark splitting happens and, more importantly, how to take care of the plant. You should find it quite helpful. http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/tree/jan90pr4.html You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

I am not a fan of fertilizing trees or shrubs their first year or so in the ground, especially since the maple needs to heal from its damage. Fertilizing should be based on results from soil tests as the purpose of fertilize is to bring the soil up to balanced. The best thing to do for trees or shrubs (as I suggested in my answer above) is to apply a good thick layer of mulch/aged compost mix around the base of each plant leaving a welled area around their immediate base so the mix doesn’t touch the trunk.

Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you are having a wonderful summer in your new home!

QUESTION: “I have a large concrete bird bath that has a red algae film. I can empty the bird bath and clean it out, but the red algae comes right back. Is there a way to get rid of it without harming the porous concrete or the birds that drink from it?” – Jan Cook

ANSWER: It’s almost impossible to prevent algae, but you can control it. Wash out the bird bath with a solution of bleach and water, using a “pot scrubber” brush and be sure to rinse it thoroughly three times. I would imagine that your bird bath is in full sun so that will create more algae then if it is in the shade. You can purchase some algae inhibitors at your local pet store but check the label to be sure it won’t harm the birds.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Dog-damaged lawns need creative landscape solutions

Pets are people too, even if they have twice as many legs and (usually) more body hair than the other members of the family. Having our pets outdoors with us can add to our enjoyment and it can help to keep them fit and healthy.

Today, I’ll share some ideas about incorporating “pet friendly” features into your landscape. But what about the, uh, less pleasant aspect of what happens when dogs and lawns get together?

Let’s clean up some of those issues first!

When it comes to solid waste, it is essential to clean up promptly after your dog with a pooper-scooper and a plastic bag. This is an obvious precaution if your dogs share your yard with your kids, but even if your landscape is a “kid-free zone” you’ll want to avoid kneeling or stepping in Fido’s droppings and dealing with the flies they attract. We keep a supply of recycled plastic grocery bags on hand that work just as well as the pet store bags.

Dog urine is less easy to deal with. If your dog is urinating on the lawn, it seems that you can either resign yourself to the brown spots or immediately flush the area each time with a garden hose.

There are products available that can be fed to dogs in order to neutralize the acid in his or her urine. However, I’m aware of concerns that altering a dog’s pH level can lead to serious health issues, and it’s not a treatment I’d recommend.

I’m more comfortable with treating the grass rather than the dog. There are a number of products on the market that are designed to treat brown spots caused by canine urine. Products with names such as Bring Back Green and G-Whiz are available online or at pet and garden stores.

But if you can live without acres of lawn, consider an alternative that could have several advantages. Replace a reasonably-sized area of lawn with gravel and you’ll find that most dogs actually prefer to do their business there rather than on grass. In addition to reducing or eliminating the brown spots on your lawn, you’ll find that solid waste is much easier to pick up from gravel than from grass.

Your best bet is to use ¾ inch gravel to prevent it being tracked into the house, as can happen with finer gravel. Lay down the gravel to a thickness of about 2” to 3” and pack it down firmly with a heavy tamper that you can buy or rent from larger hardware stores. There are a number of ornamental gravels available if you’d prefer something other than plain old grey.
Edging the gravel area with bricks or pavers will prevent the gravel from spreading over to your lawn.

When it comes to dog houses, it used to be that your choice was limited to one design that looked like something Snoopy would sleep on. Not any more!
Now you can find a variety of structures that are not only comfortable for your pet but are also pleasing to look at. Instead of being something of a visual blight that you were resigned to (rather like the garbage can) many of these new structures blend in pleasantly with your landscape design or create an architectural statement of their own.

I’ve seen doggy log cabins, dog houses with covered porches, dog chalets and dog bungalows… even mini-mansions for pampered pooches. Cheryl and I bought one (not the mansion, however) and if Snoopy could see it, he’d definitely want to sleep IN it rather than ON it!

You can research some of these new breeds of dog houses online, but if you’d like some shopping information, send me a note at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to help.

With a comfortable, attractive dog house and a clean, mess-free lawn, your landscape can be a source of enjoyment for you and for your dogs.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Trellis and vine provide narrow space privacy

QUESTION: “I own a little Cape Cod built in the 1940's. It sits on a 40 x 120 lot, which doesn't leave much space between the neighbors' houses. I'd like to have a privacy screen on the one side of the house, but there is only about 8 feet between the homes. My property line is only four feet from the wall of my house. I need the screen because the neighbor's kitchen window over their sink looks directly into my bedroom window. I always keep the blinds drawn now but it is so stuffy during nice weather and I'd like to have the option of opening the window.

“I've considered a fence (expensive), a trellis w/a vine (not sure what kind), or a tree or bush of some type (scary - too close to house). Is there any plant that the roots wouldn't push against the foundation if I plant it that close to my house? It is a westerly-facing wall that gets all the afternoon sun… the peony bushes that are there now love it. Thanks for any guidance you can supply.” – Sue

ANSWER: In a tight space such as the one you describe, I believe your idea about a trellis and vine would be the best solution. Something that would stay green most of the year would be English Ivy. The trellis need not be too large or too expensive if you only need privacy for one or two windows and it is unlikely to be offensive to the neighbors.

QUESTION: “I recently saw your article about “Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars,” and the same scenario happened to me two years ago.
One of my oaks, around 10-15 years old, seems not to have recovered and I didn’t see any leaves coming back this year or last. How do I know if it is really dead? It just looks like it now…with no leaves.

“Now another oak, close to the first one, is also missing its leaves on one third of its branches. Does that mean that it is on his way to die? I checked the trees and didn’t see either fungus or ants or caterpillars. Let me know what you think I should do at that point as I would like not to lose those great oaks on my land.” – Beatrice Moreland

ANSWER: This is a serious condition that is beginning to affect oaks in many areas of the country. It is not just the caterpillars and we need to treat the cause and not just the symptoms. The cause in many areas is lack of good nutrition and water. Drought causes stress to our trees. Lack of organic material in the first 10 inches of soil where the plants get their nutrients is a problem. The most important thing that needs to be done is to improve the soil and make sure the trees have adequate water. When they are healthy the insects are less likely to attack. Insects are like anything else in that they attack unhealthy or weakened plants rather than the healthy ones.

QUESTION: “I have a peony that was given to me about 5 years ago. It grows each year but has never bloomed. I moved it to a new home this year in the fall and fertilized it when I replanted it but it still won't bloom. Can I do anything to force it?” – C. Hall

ANSWER: This is something I do with wisteria. Try putting one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water and pour around the base of the plant. It may not work this year since most have already bloomed. However, this fall after the plant goes dormant and then right before it come out in spring, try the treatment. Do not fertilize anymore since that promotes top growth but does not help it to bloom.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Treat ailing tree to a “fertilizer stake dinner”

Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden. A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these readers discovered.

QUESTION: “We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as to why it is doing so poorly.” – Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe tree stakes. Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch trunk diameter, and so on. Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one. http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: “I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front corner of my house. It’s about six years old and is quite a size. It is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens, rhododendron, day lilies, hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not as big as last year’s and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don’t want the tree to die if I can save it.” – Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You could try a product I’ve been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs, houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they’ve had success with Take Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out for you.

QUESTION: “I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I don't want to over water it.” – Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As I’ve said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

The no-sweat warm weather landscape

With July almost here and the dog days just ahead, there’s a temptation to stay inside with the air-conditioning rather than go outside and sizzle in the sunshine.

But your plants are like needy kids, wanting you to provide them with food and water while protecting them from those weed bullies. Let’s find a no-sweat, or at least a low-sweat, way to give your lawn and landscape the TLC they crave without incurring a case of heatstroke.

Here’s rule number one, and like most good ideas, it is as simple as it is obvious: Stay inside when it’s hot outside. Duh, right? Sure it might be obvious, but I still see a lot of people, red-faced and sweating, kneeling in their yard under a broiling midday sun as if it was somehow a character-building exercise. Believe me, toiling in the heat won’t earn you any brownie points in heaven. But you might get there a little sooner than you expected.

The early bird catches the worm, but she doesn’t catch sunstroke.

And it’s not just you. Your lawn and shrubs will derive far greater benefit when they receive your attention in the cool of the early morning rather than the heat of the day.

Watering lawns and shrubs is a prime concern at this time of year, so let’s have a quick review of some basic low-sweat watering activities.

Watering shrubs

If you’re experiencing hot, dry weather, or perhaps even a drought, these guidelines should be helpful in maintaining the health of your shrubs or at least helping them survive.

Rather than using a sprinkler system, apply the water directly to the root system of each plant. Slow, patient application allows the water to be absorbed by the soil and is more efficient than a sprinkler system.

When watering directly to a plant’s roots with a hose, use a wand or an attachment that sprays the water out like rain. A hard gush of water direct from a plain hose will wash away soil from around the roots and is more likely to run off over the compacted dry soil.

If you are watering a small shrub (under, say, four feet tall), water for about one minute which will deliver approximately five gallons of water. For shrubs over four feet, a good rule of thumb is to add an extra 15 seconds of watering time for each additional foot of height.

Weeding is another chore that’s best done before the sun is up too high in the sky. You’ll be cooler and the weeds are more likely to pull away from dew-moistened soil.

Watering lawns

As I have pretty much hammered home, water your lawn in the early morning. At that time, the dew is still on the grass and the water is more likely to soak into the soil and not run off.

Water the lawn thoroughly but not too frequently. Allowing grass to become slightly drought-stressed encourages stronger rooting.

A good sign that a lawn is ready to be watered is when you see footprints in the grass after you’ve walked across it, instead of the blades springing back up.

Frequent, shallow watering can result in shallower root systems and more weeds, including crabgrass.

However, a lawn that is newly seeded or sodded does need to be watered frequently enough to keep the surface fairly moist while it becomes established.

When it comes to mowing, remember that “taller” is an attribute that makes Hollywood stars and grass look more attractive. Don’t mow your lawn to anything less than a height of three inches during the summer. Why? Fewer weed problems, stronger roots and more of a lush look.

If the lawn does turn brown because of a really dry summer, it‘s not the end of the world. In all likelihood, it will survive through its dormant period and come back, strong and green, next spring.

Make your garden part of your early morning regimen and save the sweat for a gym workout!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Smart planting, smart spraying keep hungry deer at bay

You carefully planted those trees and shrubs. You fed them, watered them, watched them grow, slowly but surely. Then one morning, they didn’t look right. When you got closer, you saw why. Uninvited guests – the four-legged kind – have feasted on that succulent, tender greenery!

However much you enjoy the sight of backyard wildlife, finding deer and other critters chomping on your plants is something you’d probably rather avoid. The solution is twofold: Repel the critters so they move on and forage elsewhere, and create a landscape filled with plants that deer do not find attractive.

If your landscape is already established and you don’t relish starting over, your best bet will be the use of an effective repellent.

From my point of view, an effective repellent must fulfill these criteria: It has to be humane, safe around kids and pets and environmentally friendly. Ideally, it should be fairly simple to use, and of course it should keep the critters away from your plants.

A product that Cheryl and I have been using seems to meet all those requirements. It’s called Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent. It consists of a funky-looking 48-ounce pressure sprayer that comes with a 6-ounce bottle of concentrate that you dilute with water.

You create the pressure by pumping the handle a few times. Incidentally, it doesn’t require a lot of effort so it would probably be ideal for garden enthusiasts who suffer from arthritis or muscle fatigue. One 6-ounce bottle of concentrate will treat about 1,500 square feet.

We’ve also used an all-natural product named Deer Stopper that you might want to investigate. It actually smells quite pleasant, to humans if not to deer.

If your plant predators are attacking from underground, the Liquid Fence people make a product called Liquid Fence Mole & Vole Repellent. Again, it is not a poison and is harmless to pets and children. Moles, voles and gophers find that it makes plant roots taste unpleasant and they move on to feed elsewhere.

They also make products to repel cats, dogs and squirrels from invading your landscape. So far as I know, there isn’t one called Neighbor’s Kids Repellent. Unfortunately.

If you can’t find the products I’ve mentioned, or if you have questions about them, you are welcome to contact me at steve@landsteward.org

If you are just now planning your landscape, or if you are ready to start over and you anticipate problems with deer, it makes sense to select plants that deer don’t want to eat. Here are a few you could look for.

Cedar Green Giant Regular readers know that this is one of my favorite trees for so many reasons. It’s fast growing, adding 3 to 5 feet per year, and makes an excellent, dense hedge if kept trimmed to a height of maybe 6 or 8 feet. It resists drought and disease and is highly resistant to deer.

Other trees that are rarely deer-damaged: Japanese Cedar, Japanese Falsecypress, Scotch Pine and Douglas Fir.

Cypress, Dwarf Japanese Sungold A good choice when you need a deer-resistant evergreen shrub. It has a mop-like form with creamy golden new foliage on semi-weeping branches.

For more deer-resistant shrubs, try bamboo, barberry, boxwood, buddleia, Rose of Sharon and European privet.

Pachysandra Green Sheen When you first see this groundcover, you might think it’s artificial because of the remarkable glossiness of its foliage. It does very well in shady areas and under the canopies of older trees where nothing much else wants to grow.

Some other groundcovers that deer don’t care for: Creeping Myrtle, periwinkle and wooly thyme.

There’s a useful resource available online, hosted by the Extension unit of the University of West Virginia, titled “Resistance of ornamentals to deer damage.” The Web address is http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/treeshru/resistan.htm and you can click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site, www.landsteward.org The article provides a lot of information and includes extensive lists of plants that are frequently damaged and rarely damaged by deer.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Give plants a healthy head-start with robust soil

In some locations, it seems the soil is of such poor quality that most plants look permanently sickly, and those that do thrive get nibbled away by deer and rabbits. If that is a dilemma that you have to deal with, today’s column should offer you some hope.

A recent column about plants that do well in poor soil brought quite a lot of mail from readers. If you missed that column, send me a message at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you a link to the archived version at my Web site. Some of the comments were from readers who would rather improve poor soil than cater to it.

What can you do if you have sorry soil that needs to be brought up to snuff? First of all, it makes sense to find out if your soil really is of poor quality. The best way to find an answer is with a soil test. You can purchase your own soil test kit, but if you prefer to leave it to the experts, you can contact the nearest Ag Extension Service, usually associated with a university. If you’re not sure where your nearest Extension service is located, you can find a state-by-state list at this Web site http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/netlinks/ces.html

So, exactly what IS a soil test? It’s a process by which elements, including phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper and zinc, are chemically removed from the soil and measured for their "plant available" content within the sample. The quantity of available nutrients in the sample determines the amount of fertilizer that is recommended. A soil test also measures pH, humic matter and exchangeable acidity. These analyses indicate whether lime is needed and, if so, how much to apply, according to a description from the North Carolina Department of Agriculture’s Web site.

Why test your soil? Here’s a good answer from the Extension Web site of Rutgers University: “To apply optimum levels of nutrients or lime to your soil, it is necessary to know the existing pH and the availability of essential plant nutrients in the soil. Remember: Excess nutrients or limestone can be as detrimental to plant growth as deficiencies of these nutrients.”

Adding too much lime can cause the soil pH to rise above the needed level, which in turn prevents much-needed nutrients such as copper, iron, manganese and zinc from reaching the plants’ root systems.

Once you have the results of your test, you can take it to your local garden center and ask to see their products that will adjust the soil’s quality as needed.

Once your soil is back on track, keeping it healthy is as important to your landscape as a good diet and nutritional supplements are to your own health.

There are several products that I use on my own landscape in order to maintain optimum quality soil. As you know, I opt for organic solutions to garden problems wherever possible, and those are the ones I generally recommend.

A soil conditioner named Prosper was originally intended for farmers who had problems with standing water caused by compacted soil. Then owners of newly-constructed homes began to find it useful where heavy equipment had packed down the soil, making it almost unmanageable. Prosper increases the downward movement of water to, and through, the root zone, making it and oxygen more available to plants. It can also increase drainage and reduce erosion.

Another useful organic product is called Global EarthTek, and is one of those products that seems to do a whole bunch of things at once. It’s an effective fungicide, it increases the soil’s water-holding capacity (so you spend less time out there with the hose) and it helps to fight disease and virus by fortifying plants’ immune system.

As for fending off those unwanted garden visitors, licking their lips at the sight of your newly robust plants, I’ll have some tips in the next column!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Sawdust mulch could cause garden woes

QUESTION: I live in the heart of Amish country. I was wondering if I could use the sawdust from one of the many local sawmills as a mulch around my trees in the yard rather than use the conventional cypress chips? The sawdust is plentiful and would be much cheaper than the chips. Do you foresee any problems with my using it?” – Hank Wolgast

ANSWER: On the surface it would appear to be a great substitute. However, fresh sawdust right off the saw can be very acidic depending on the type of wood being used. A good rule of thumb, if you decide to purchase the sawdust, is to pile it where it will be undisturbed and let it sit one year. The rains and natural decomposition will leach out most of the acid and then it can be used for mulch the next few years. Or of course, simply use “regular” mulch!

QUESTION: “What can you tell me about setting up drip watering cans or buckets? “ – Mike Samolinski

ANSWER: If you are going to set these up to water trees or shrubs in hard to reach places, here’s something that you might want to try, using five gallon buckets. Drill approximately five or six 1/8 inch holes at the base of the bucket, about one inch apart. Fill the bucket with water and it should take about an hour for the water to run out. This allows most of the water to go down to the root system where it is needed.

QUESTION: “I planted several gallon-size rhododendron shrubs last summer and they seemed to be doing well. Now that winter has passed they have tiny black spots on the leaves and some leaves that are yellowish or brown and dead looking. What would you suggest I do to help them along this spring?” – Karen Pirino

ANSWER: There is a product that you can use that comes in powder form to spread around the base of the plants and then wet it in. The product is called Subdue and is a fungicide made by Scott’s. It sounds like your plants are suffering from a fungus that often afflicts rhododendrons.

QUESTION: “I have a variegated hibiscus plant that, for the past two years, has gotten tons of buds, but never bloomed. The buds just dry up and stay on until they fall off. What would cause this? It is planted in full sun from about 12 noon to 3 p.m. and we have a sprinkler system so it gets watered periodically throughout the day.” – Darlene Melvin

ANSWER: One possible reason could be that your plants are getting too much water which might result in the buds not having time to develop fully. In a plant’s life cycle, buds form, become flowers then extend to seed. It’s a theory of mine that if a plant has everything it needs (or too much) there is no incentive for it to reproduce. As I say, just a theory of mine!

Firstly, try cutting back on the water. Another thing that you may try next season before the plant begins to bud is to put one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water to dissolve then douse the roots of the plant. This is a way to shock it without harming it. I do it with wisteria and get beautiful flowering every year.

QUESTION: I have a border in front of my patio lined with dwarf nandinas. The soil stays very wet all the time. My nandinas drop their leaves and die. Could you recommend a small shrub I could replace them with that likes a wet soil?” – Alice

ANSWER: Although I don’t recommend planting any type of plant in wet soil, I recently wrote a column titled “Damp soil? Here are seven plants with wet feet.” If you missed it, here is a link: http://www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/44166 What I would recommend is raising the soil level around your patio (a process known as berming) and diverting the water so you can plants the plants you desire.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

These plants love poor soil

Poor soil and occasional drought conditions… Does that mean a dull, scrappy or even non-existent landscape? That’s a problem that worries many readers, judging by my e-mailbag.

But the answer is No. Even if you have poor soil and a potential drought from time to time, you can still enjoy an attractive and colorful landscape.

Here are a couple of potential solutions if these are issues you are dealing with in your garden.

Sedum Black Jack PP16736

This variety of Sedum is quite new and really is spectacular. It has the deepest, dark purple foliage imaginable. In fact at times it can look almost black as the color deepens towards the end of summer.

Black Jack is easy to grow and is hardy in most parts of the country. It has thick, succulent leaves that can store water, and because of this it is drought tolerant. It actually prefers poor soil, as long as it is well-drained and located in full sun to partial shade. In fact, if planted in rich soil, it tends to become lanky and open.

It is a perennial with an upright growing habit (unlike some “sprawling”
sedums) and develops sturdy stems that support the 8 inch flower heads.
Expect it to reach around 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide.

If you want to maintain its compact growing habit, I suggest you divide your Black Jacks every three to four years. You’ll find that older plants tend to split in the center if they haven’t been divided. If you want to know how to divide plants like this, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with a brief “how to.”

If you are “blessed” with poor soil but would like a rich-looking easy-care perennial, Sedum Black Jack could be worth a look.

Gaillardia Fanfare PP15892

It’s hard to believe that this flamboyant and colorful perennial prefers poor soil but that’s the case. It is heat-tolerant and will do best in full sun. In fact, given too much shade it will tend to flop over.

I particularly like the unique look of the blooms, with their dark centers surrounded by a ring of yellow-tipped red tubular petals. The grower who introduced me to this variety called Fanfare a “blooming machine,” putting forth its unusual flowers from early spring right through into the fall.

Fanfare is ideal for borders or mass plantings, and its compact shape – one to two feet high with an 18-inch spread – makes it an ideal container plant.
A container or two of Fanfare near the kitchen door could provide you with some nice displays of cut flowers, too.

I should point out that “poor soil” for Fanfare doesn’t mean heavy clay.
Fanfare prefers well-drained moist soil but is very tolerant of drought conditions and requires very little care beyond deadheading spent blooms to prolong blooming time.

Grass Miscanthus Allegro

If you are somewhat inexperienced as a gardener, or even an absolute beginner, this could be a good plant to develop your green thumb with a very good chance of success.

Music lovers will recognize the word allegro which means “a quick lively tempo” so you would guess correctly that this plant has a fast growth rate.

Allegro is a perennial ornamental grass that is robust and sturdy as well as fast-growing, making it a good choice for a hedge or an ornamental border.
It has a distinctive, feathery look that sways in the breeze and sports red blooms in August and September. If you’re a little more adventurous, you can use it as a backdrop for plants with darker shades of color and foliage in a large mixed border.

Best of all for newbie gardeners, Allegro can grow in virtually any soil from loose sand to heavy clay and doesn’t even require particularly good drainage. The only maintenance required would be an annual haircut about 8 inches from the ground.

Great gardens don’t always need great soil!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Frost bitten plants need your patience

Just when we thought that spring was definitely here and settled in… Wham! Winter came back with a vengeance across many parts of the country.

A few weeks ago, many of us woke up to find frost on the lawn and our plants looking decidedly cold and miserable. Now spring is back, for real this time, and the threat of frost should be behind us until next winter.

If you were caught in this year’s cold snap, it can be hard to tell which of your plants are goners and which will live to fight another day. I have some tips and pointers that should be helpful if you are still anxious about some of your plants.

Even if you escaped the worst of the late frost this time, you might not be so lucky in the future. Keep some of these points in mind and it might help you save some plants next spring!

I received a lot of e-mails from worried readers such as this one:

QUESTION: “I was wondering if we can expect all the damage from the recent freeze to trees, shrubs and perennials to be permanent. I mean do you think some of them will survive? At this point they look like they are dying.

”The Winter Gem boxwoods, azaleas, and day lilies all have extensive damage. I thought I would trim off the damage when the weather warms a little. Would fertilizing to start new growth help to save them?

”I also had Magnolia trees, Flowering Cherry trees and Flowering Crabapple trees and Lilac, Mock Orange, and Flowering Quince Shrubs. Just about all of them look really bad. I would appreciate any suggestions.” – M. Railey

One of the horticulturist’s rules to live by: Do NOT fertilize any plant with freeze damage until it has put on at least some new growth. In fact many plant experts will tell you not to fertilize frostbitten plants until next winter. Why? Because the nitrogen in fertilizer can cause the plant to leaf out too quickly, adding even more stress to the trauma it is already trying to resist.

In most cases, trees and shrubs will begin to put on new growth within two to four weeks after frost damage. This is where Nature really needs our patience. There is a powerful temptation to start pruning as soon as we see frost damaged plants. Do not succumb to the temptation!

In fact, it is better to avoid any major pruning on frostbitten plants as they can take up to a year to return to their normal growth pattern, and pruning, like fertilizing, can add to the stress.

That doesn’t mean you cannot trim away small areas of dried up and obviously dead foliage once the threat of frost is past and new growth is beginning to come back. Just say no to any major surgery.

However, perennials such as hostas and other delicate plants may show signs of severe burn. You can go ahead and clip them back now as they will be putting on new growth. Decayed leaves and branches left on them will only attract annoying insects.

Remember to water your plants. After a frost attack has passed, many plants will need water to help them re-leaf after the first tender leaves were lost to frost.

Again, be patient. Nature can take a while to help plants recover so fight the urge to do anything too drastic.

QUESTION: “I planted several Mallow Marvel hibiscus last summer. I am a novice with these plants. Do they die each year and come back full, or have my plants died? The rest of my plants are budding except these. The limbs seem to be all dead. Please give me direction.” – Krista

ANSWER: Yes, Mallow Marvel is a perennial that will return each spring, reaching 8 to 10 feet eventually. Don’t dig them up. Be patient and they’ll be back

Check out GreenwoodNursery.com's bat houses! Lure bats to your yard to eat annoying insects.

Give yourself time to “grow” into your landscape

Don’t be tempted to go for “instant landscaping.” That’s the message in this comment from a reader and the response to him from my wife, Cheryl:

COMMENT: “3 years ago we moved to a new house on a 25 acre lot. I am sure it will take us years to figure out what we are going to do with it all. However, 2 years ago we planted our first plants. My neighbor mocked me and said, “Nice sticks,” and would yell over the fence…”Gee…I think your trees are growing!” and then laugh. Having lived on a much smaller lot, the thought of planting “sticks” would have never occurred to us. But with so much area to cover, we thought…”what the heck, let’s try it” so I ignored her remarks.

Now, two years later, my weeping willows are taller than me and my Carolina Spice bushes and Burning Bushes are growing beautifully. So now I wonder, why did I ever spend $30 on a plant that I could grow myself in 2 years for $5 each! I used to be all about instant gratification – but now find the gratification is quadrupled when you watch it grow from a seedling!” – Paul W.

ANSWER: Thank you so much for your note. Only a small portion of homeowners have the financial ability to install instant landscaping and, chances are, they have a knowledgeable person who regularly cares for those plants. Not all of us have nor want that advantage.

My thoughts are that a landscape should take years to grow into itself. Just as you and your family are new to your home and property, you should take the time (be that several years) to live on the property and see how its uses develop. Hasty planting only to get something in the ground often leads to a change of mind a couple of years later. The different ways you and your family will use your property will reveal themselves over time. I always encourage people to take that time to find out. – Cheryl Jones

Your comments and questions are always welcome. Drop an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll do my best to get a personal response back to you. I often include some of those Q&As in this column.

QUESTION: “I have just purchased some Rosa Hansen Hedge Roses. I am interested in using these hedge roses to conceal an existing chain link fence. The site directions state to plant 12” - 24" apart but my question is how far from an existing fence? Can you help?” – Maura

ANSWER: “In order to give them enough room to grow and not be an issue with your neighbor in the future, I would place them at least 2 feet from the fence. That will give them a four foot area in which to grow.

QUESTION: “We have two weeping cherry trees (used to be three) near full grown. They are blooming, but very poorly this year. Any suggestions as why this might be, and what we can do to produce more blooms next year?” – Kathryne

ANSWER: Weather affects the blooming of most early spring flowering trees such as flowering cherry and flowering pear trees. It is quite likely that, with the flip-floppy weather that has been going on in many parts of the U.S., the trees experienced a cool weather snap just after the buds began to form. It's the most common reason as to why they lose their blooms or don't bloom as pretty as in other years. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can do about the weather!

QUESTION: “I have black fountain grass. How do I solve the problem of it reseeding itself?” – Rosie

ANSWER: The best way, when it begins to go to seed, is to cut the seed pods off before they can disperse. The other way is to put down an herbicide that prevents seed from germinating during the growing months.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

“Old Fashioned” plants appeal to modern tastes

What once was old is new again. That’s a saying that can certainly be applied to the world of plants. Quite often a specific plant becomes almost universally popular. As soon as it can be seen in almost every garden, there’s a backlash and the once-popular plant drops out of the Top Forty, so to speak.

But then, a new generation of gardeners and landscapers rediscover the plant and it enjoys a resurgence of popularity.

Just such a plant is Dicentra spectabilis, also known as Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart.

In case you haven’t seen it recently, here’s a reminder. It is named for the dangling, pink and white, heart-shaped blooms that burst forth in a profusion in spring, dying back somewhat in the heat of mid summer, although the blooms last longer in locations where there is ample shade.

This is a hardy little guy, tolerating the cold as well as the sun, topping out at no more than two feet tall with attractive grey-green foliage. If you plant it in shady areas, it does well alongside hostas and ferns. Bleeding Heart is one “Old Fashioned” plant that deserves its modern day revival.

And now to a couple more questions from readers. My wife Cheryl fielded the first one about plants that attract birds.

QUESTION: “The hot, dry summers where we live make it a challenge for me to decide what to plant. We have a few crape myrtles, and Japanese boxwoods that line our privacy fence. Dull, eh? I enjoy the birds and would love to establish a sanctuary in the corner of our back yard. The clay soil and sun are forces to contend with. Any suggestions for creating something as an attractive haven for the birds?” – Kim Renee Keck

ANSWER: Most birds are going to be attracted to plants that produce food and berries over winter. These include: Dogwoods, Rosa rugosas, Serviceberry, Viburnums and ornamental grasses.

Of course, raspberry and blackberry plants fruit during the summer and birds love them. Hummingbirds are attracted to brightly colored flowering plants such as the crape myrtles, buddleias, clethra, herbs (sage, oregano, basil, thyme) and geraniums. Adding a bird feeder with tasty seed blends is always a welcome sight during winter and bird houses are not only visually attractive, but tell the birds to come in and stay awhile. I hope this gives you a few ideas.

QUESTION: “I bought some royal ferns last year, but wasn't aware at that time that they need acid soil. Even though they were planted in shade and kept very moist, they didn't make it (but I am sure that is because I have the wrong soil type). I was wondering if there are any ferns that do well in somewhat alkaline soil?” – Jennifer Bonnett

ANSWER: Most all ferns will prefer soils with a high organic content. You may want to dig an area out and fill it back with only aged compost, aged manure or other organic matter in which to plant the ferns and then top with mulch. They need shaded areas that have drained soil. It is possible that the moisture didn't drain properly and the fern rhizomes rotted. Check the ferns regularly. You only want the soil to be cool and moist, but not damp or wet.

QUESTION: “I have double mock bushes that have not blossomed in five years… never, for that matter. Any suggestions?” – Debbie Andrews

ANSWER: I can think of a couple of things to check on. The doubles typically need to be in total full sun and they do seem to do better in more of a poor soil. Remember that the use of too much fertilizer will encourage leaf growth, but not flowers. You might want to cut out the old growth and any dead canes to get more sunlight into the center of the plants.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Creeping fig needs foothold to climb wall

QUESTION: “We planted creeping fig all along our back wall which is cement (in the shape of bricks), not smooth, kind of bumpy...but the fig is not doing well in grabbing onto the walls and climbing. The only places they are climbing up are along the wooden posts that are about 10-12 feet apart on the wall. We want the fig to climb all over the wall. Any ideas as to what we can do to encourage this?” – Debbie P.

ANSWER: From time to time, I have seen a type of wire frame pictured in some garden magazines. However I have always thought one could craft the same thing using wire and attaching some of the points to the concrete wall with bolts that go into the concrete to secure the structure.

You might want to check with your hardware store to see if they have a ready-made product you can use. If not, consider creating your own DIY version of a faux lattice on the concrete wall for the fig to attach itself to. Once the fig has begun to climb, the wire rack should be virtually invisible. Send me a photo of the finished project at steve@landsteward.org We’re always looking for creative ideas to pass on to visitors to the Web site!

QUESTION: “Last spring we planted 4 evergreen wisteria to grow up on our daughter’s arbor. It did beautifully all summer and in the fall it had blooms. However, now it looks dead. Will this come back this spring? If so, should the wisteria be cut back this spring, or will the new growth appear on what is already there?” – Pam and John Barrett

ANSWER: From what you tell me, I’d say it is just dormant. We have wisteria growing on a pergola in our garden and it has to go through this rest period.

As for cutting it back, it would depend on how unruly it is at this point. The best time to cut it back and still get blooms in the spring is in January or early February, so the optimum time has passed.

You may want to also try something that I do: dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water and apply a gallon to the base of each of the plants. Then do this once again in the spring just before the leaves begin to appear. This will cause it to bloom more this next year.

Remember that when you apply fertilizer, you increase foliage and top growth. The Epsom salts retard the growth initially and cause it to bloom and the blooms eventually turn into seed pods in the fall.

Not long ago in this column, there was a question from a reader whose home was being invaded by ladybugs that were not exactly ladybugs. An alert reader, A. Wilson in North Carolina, thought I might like to share the information on that subject found at this Web site: http://www.pestproducts.net/ladybugs.htm

As the site points out, there is a big difference between the "garden variety" ladybug and the Asian Lady Beetle. We are all familiar with the ladybug, considered to be a "good guy" since it feeds on garden pests such as aphids. The Asian Lady Beetle poses problems that were unforeseen when they were first introduced in the United States as a biological pest management tool.

This particular lady beetle differs in that it turns to our homes for shelter, invading living areas in very large numbers. When first noticed, mechanical removal can often suffice as beetle pest control. Small numbers can be captured and released outdoors where they can continue to protect our plants from aphids. When the number of lady beetles in a home becomes high, vacuuming will be your best bet, according to the Web site.

Asian lady beetles are beneficial landscape inhabitants are only a nuisance when they move in to your home in large numbers. They are not poisonous or harmful to humans.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Garden tools can make outdoors more fun, less tiring

If there’s anything that garden lovers enjoy almost as much as plants, then it’s finding new garden tools and gadgets.

Today, I’ll feature some products that might make your time outdoors less arduous and more enjoyable. Cheryl and I are already using some of them around our own landscape or at the nursery. Maybe one or two will be just what you’ve been looking for!

Tractor Seat on Wheels
Well, the name of this one says it all: it’s a tractor seat on wheels. This has become one of our favorite products because it saves all that wear and tear on our knees and backs. Now if there’s a job that would normally require squatting, stooping or kneeling, we pull this guy out of the barn and off we go.

The tractor seat rotates 360 degrees and there’s a garden caddy tray underneath it that holds hand tools and gloves, etc. It looks so funky with its big ol’ 8 inch wheels that your kids might actually volunteer to weed the flower beds. Or maybe not.

If you can’t find a product I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll try to help.

Flat Stack self winding hose
If you hate untangling a knotted pile of garden hose or if you’re tired of winding it back onto its storage reel when you’re through watering, this might be what you need. It’s a 50 foot, half-inch hose that stretches out for use like a regular hose then simply retracts itself back into a perfect pancake-shaped circle when you’ve finished using it.

It’s a bit more expensive than a “normal” hose, but you won’t need a hose reel and it might save you a lot of sweat and under-the-breath cursing. The Flat Stack is UV and weather-resistant and should last years longer than those leaky cheapo hoses most of us have lurking somewhere in the garage.

Rain Bird Time-Release Water We haven’t tried this one yet but it certainly looks useful. Essentially, it’s water bound in the form of a solid gel that slowly converts back into water over time, sending water and nutrients from the soil to a plant’s roots over a period of 30 days or more.

Time-Release Water comes in plastic packages that are the size and shape of a 12 ounce tube of bulk sausage. Slit the “sausage,” lay it cut-side down on moist soil next to the plant stem, cover with some topsoil and it will gradually release the water that is suspended in the gel.

It costs around $1.99 per 9 oz tube and is available at most home and garden centers. If you are planning to go on vacation this summer, a few of these around your shrubs or in your container gardens might relieve you of water worries while you’re away.

Black & Decker Cordless Cultivator If you hate weeding or turning over soil in flowerbeds with a shovel or a hoe, this could be the tool you’re looking for. Don’t confuse it with a rotary tiller. It isn’t intended to cut through hard-packed sod. But it’s a good option if you need to loosen dirt for planting, aerate soil or get in and around plants without damaging them while getting at the roots of most weeds.

Because it’s cordless, it can go anywhere, using the same interchangeable 18V power pack that drives several other Black & Decker cordless power tools.

Liquid Net Insect Repellent
Cheryl and I have tried just about every spray and lotion on the market. The ones with DEET are effective, but that’s a chemical that can be absorbed through the skin and has been linked to neurological damage. We came across Liquid Net and we use it because it’s DEET-free, safe for children, has all-natural ingredients and it actually smells pretty good.

There’s even a version called Liquid Net for Pets that repels ticks and fleas without any harmful or dangerous chemicals.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

“Complement” your plants to create color harmony

Gardeners and landscapers can learn a lot from other artists and craftsmen. For instance, think of the people who work in the picture-framing business.

Take a picture to one of these experts and you can find that what might have seemed a no-brainer turns out to require a lot of thought to achieve the desired result. They’ll naturally spend some time selecting the ideal frame. But notice how much thought they put into finding the perfect mat.

The mat – that beveled piece of card that serves as a border between the picture and the frame – is essential to the optimum appreciation of the picture itself. The right mat will enhance perfectly the picture it surrounds, focusing the viewer’s eye on the art it borders.

On the other hand, a carelessly-chosen mat can be a major distraction, clashing with the colors of the art or dominating the viewer’s attention. Even a masterpiece can appear mediocre when poorly framed and matted.

The same can be true with the plants in your landscape.

A prize perennial can look breathtaking when surrounded by other plants carefully chosen to form the ideal “frame and mat” to bring out its color and texture. Conversely, that supreme specimen can almost disappear when set amidst the “wrong” plants.

As I have recommended before, a good start is a color wheel from a craft shop or downloaded from an online source, such as http://www.colormatters.com/colortheory.html You can quickly see a visual guide to analogous and complementary colors.

In a nutshell, analogous colors are the three colors that sit side by side on a twelve-part color wheel; for example the trio that pretty much go from yellow to orange to red. Complementary colors are any two colors that sit directly opposite each other on the wheel, such as red and green, or red-purple and yellow-green. (It’s easier to visualize this when you’re looking at a color wheel!)

Your objective with all this is to achieve harmony: an arrangement that is pleasing to the human eye.

If you need an idea to get you started, you could do worse than a fast-growing perennial named Salvia Blue Hill Sage (Salvia x sylvestris Blue Hill). Why? Because this useful plant seems to bring out the absolute best in other plants that it “frames” in your garden. If you’ve ever said, “That dress brings out the color of your eyes,” you’ll understand what I mean.

Blue Hill originated in Germany where it was (and is) valued for its summer-long blooming clear blue flowers and its sturdy compact stature. Cut it back and it will re-bloom in the early fall. They’re easy to grow and prefer full sun, reaching a maximum height of around two feet.

If you’re using the principals of complementary colors, the brilliant blue of that Salvia and its green foliage would greatly enhance the color of red-blooming plants that you group with it.

A delightful option could be the Dianthus Spotty. Blooming in May or June, the Spotty has bright red flowers festooned with brilliant white spots. Like Blue Hill, they do best in full sun and well drained soil. Spotty is a dwarf variety, reaching only about 5 inches tall and is perfect for rock gardens.

In England they are often described as crevice fillers because they can be planted between flagstones or around craggy rock features. A mass of Dianthus Spotty in full bloom looks like a red and white polka-dot dress. A fun addition to your garden and a fine “complement” to the Blue Hill.

Speaking of “red,” of course you can’t help but think of the aptly named Red Hot Poker.(Kniphofia uvaria Flamenco). Actually, this particular variety produces fiery red, vivid orange and soft yellow flower spikes, thus making it a one-man analogous color display! The brilliant flowers are on straight, 3-foot stalks and hummingbirds seem to go bonkers for them.

Create color harmony in your garden and you’ll see how the right “frames” bring your masterpieces to life.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Blend color and texture for successful container gardens

Container planting has become quite a hot topic with gardeners over the past few years, and for good reason. There are a number of benefits to using those versatile containers and today I’ll share some tips and ideas so you can decide if “going container” would work for you.

A few days ago, I received the following question from a reader:
QUESTION: “I have some large pots that I need to fill. There are six around the pool and two each at two separate entrances to the house. Two are boxes and the other eight are urns. I would like some ideas for possible combinations. I would like to combine evergreens, perennials, and annuals. Ornamental grasses also, either perennial or annual. I live in zone 7.” – Bill Dubin

ANSWER: Bill, I have planters all around our garden area. Last season I used grasses and some ground cover, and featured some perennials. I even included hostas. Here are some that have worked well for me in containers:
Grasses:Miscanthus I. Red Baron, Pennisetum Karley Rose, Pennisetun Hameln, Panicum v. Squaw, Miscnathus purpurascens

Hostas:Blue Angel, Blue Dimples, Patriot.

Ground Cover:Ajuga, English ivy, sedum (including Dragon’s Blood Red, Blue Spruce and Baby Tears)

Perennials:I like any of the achilleas (such as Summer Berries or Paprika that I described in a previous column) and Clematis.

Here’s a basic design tip. If you have a container that will be seen from all sides, plant your grass or the tallest perennial in the center of the pot then build the remaining plants around it to give a layered effect. If the container will be close to a wall or fence and will be viewed mainly from the front, put the tallest plants in the back and work forward to the shorter plants in the front.

If you are having trouble deciding which colors work well together, it’s a good idea to go to a local art or craft store and buy a color wheel which will give a visual guide to color harmony for a very modest investment. If you can’t wait, take a look at an online color wheel and a basic explanation of the difference between complimentary and analogous colors at http://www.artsconnected.org/toolkit/encyc_colorwheel.html As that’s a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
As I mentioned, container gardening is nothing new, but it is a growing trend in recent years. As for benefits, one of the biggest is the mobility factor. “You can arrange the containers for a party on your patio and then move them to other places in your yard,” says Felder Rushing, a gardening expert at the Web site www.Learn2Grow.com

Among Rushing’s other points:
Monitor watering. Plants in containers require more water than those grown in the ground. Also, the type of containers you choose will impact the watering requirements. Clay pots are porous and dry out faster than plastic pots. The smaller the container, the more often you will need to water it.

Consider weight. That one-pound pot may weigh more than 12 pounds once you get soil and plant material in it. If you want to be able to move your containers around, make sure they’re not too heavy. As an alternative, Cheryl and I place some of our containers on specialized dollies with casters for easy movement. We also place a thick layer of recycled Styrofoam “peanuts” under the soil in larger pots for improved drainage and lighter weight.

Consider conditions. In cold climates, containers will be the first to freeze and in warm climates, they’ll hold in heat. Move plants out of hot baking sun in warmer areas and protect them by placing them in a garage or shed in freezing temperatures.
Container gardening is a fun and manageable way to enjoy many types of plants, regardless of the size of your landscape.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

No TLC needed for these out-of-the-ordinary plants

Instead of the “same old same old,” how about putting some pizzazz in your landscape this spring with some plants that are a little out of the ordinary!

Coreopsis Heaven’s Gate
Whoever named this Coreopsis was definitely inspired, perhaps with visions of this particular plant welcoming new arrivals at the Pearly Gates. Unlike its more common yellow cousins, this one is pink. In fact, Heaven’s Gate is a sort of two-tone pink with a deep ruby center changing to a more delicate pink towards the tip of each petal.
It might look delicate, but Heaven’s Gate is easy to grow and doesn’t need a lot of TLC. Blooming from spring to fall, and best suited to Zones 5 to 8, it prefers a sunny spot in your garden and will grow to around 12 to 24 inches at maturity. It’s a showy, compact perennial that could put a little breath of heaven close to home.

Coreopsis rosea Sweet Dreams
As I started writing about Heaven’s Gate, I was reminded of another Coreopsis that is both spectacular and easy to care for. With Sweet Dreams you’ll find blooms with deep raspberry centers bleeding out to pure white tips that really seem to glow against the tapered, dark green foliage.
They bloom pretty much from late spring until the first frost. Growing to about 18 inches tall, they also spread nicely to about 18 inches wide, making them a good addition to a sunny bank as well as the more traditional flower bed. An added benefit: they attract butterflies but are deer-resistant.

Coreopsis grandiflora Domino
If you prefer the more traditional look of a yellow Coreopsis, take a look at this cheerful little guy whose bright yellow, fringed blooms each have a deep burgundy-red center. They add a splash of sunshine to a flower border all summer long and are perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Achillea Summer Berries
Why settle for one color when you can enjoy several? Summer Berries blooms with a sumptuous mix of fruity colors that range from salmon/apricot to yellow and cherry red to pink/cream to two-tone pink and even more, in clusters of 3 to 5 inch blooms.
I’ve found that a lot of Achillea tend to fade, but the blooms on Summer Berries hang in there, even in summer heat and bright sunshine. This plant can really enhance a border and, once again is easy to care for. A favorite of both bees and butterflies, it makes spectacular flower arrangements, fresh or dried.
Happiest in Zones 3 through 9, it grows to around 2 or 3 feet tall, flowering from June to September.

Achillea Paprika
If you’d prefer a single color Achillea instead of the rainbow effect of Summer Berries, try the Paprika. As the name suggests the clusters of flowers are bright red and each flower has a distinctive yellow center.
This is one of the Achillea that will fade a bit – from bright red to pink – as it ages. It’s possible to reduce the fading effect somewhat if you plant them in a spot that has some afternoon shade.
Regular deadheading will keep the blooms coming back. Paprika is a perennial that grows to about 2 or 3 feet at maturity.

Clematis Ernest Markham
This Clematis was named by Rowland Jackman in 1937 to honor Ernest Markham who is credited with being the first to raise this variety. The Jackmans, incidentally, have a long horticultural pedigree themselves, having operated the family nursery in England since 1810. Speaking of pedigrees, this Clematis received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
I particularly like the large, rich red flowers with their creamy-brown stamens. It does well in just about any average, well-drained garden soil, but really thrives in loamy, pH neutral soil. This is a fast-growing deciduous vine than can quickly grow as high as 20 feet.

Isn’t it nice to know that many uncommon plants are still very easy to care for?
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bamboo starts slow, grows to impressive height

Recently, I was out of the country attending an agricultural conference in Nairobi, Kenya. While there, I gave a presentation about the many uses for bamboo and the benefits of establishing bamboo plantations.
When I returned home, I found a lot of questions in my e-mail in-box from readers of this column. I had to smile when I realized that the first one I opened was about… bamboo!

QUESTION: “Can you please tell me approx how many feet the green panda and the green screen grow each year and about how long it takes for them to reach maturity?” – Susan Rodriguez

ANSWER: Bamboo is the tallest growing grass in the world. It does get off to a slow start by taking at least three years to establish itself (with minimum growth). Once the mother plant has established itself, growth will gradually become faster with each cane becoming denser than the previous. On an established plant, the canes will reach their destined height in one year.

The bamboo variety known as green panda grows in the 6-10 foot height range and the green screen grows in the 10-20 foot tall range. Bamboo typically lives until the plant itself blooms, which is generally in 40 to 60 years.
QUESTION: “I purchased 50 Red Twig Dogwoods 3 years ago. They are doing great. We live in [USDA Plant Hardiness] zone 7 and I just trimmed them back some. What kind of fertilizer should I use on them this spring? Also, what is a good fertilizer for Hemlocks, Compacta Hollies and Nandinas?” -- Jerry Schaufenbuel
ANSWER: Since they are doing well, I would advise you to be cautious in applying anything to them. Rather than fertilizer, you might just mulch them with an aged compost mix or other organic matter to give them any nutrients they might need.

If you feel that a fertilizer is necessary, use a low grade balanced one and use sparingly. Fertilizer balances out the soil and is usually only necessary when the soil is somewhat lacking.

For the hemlocks, I would add organic matter. Alternatively, visit your hardware or garden store and ask for a fertilizer specifically for evergreens such as hemlock and see what their best brand will be. Take a pitchfork and punch holes around the base of the trees spreading outward as the root system will spread out and not down. Then spread fertilizer as directed and water.

The same applies to the holly and nandina plants, as they prefer organic matter to inorganic fertilizer. However, for inorganic use, there is a product called HollyTone that is used on broadleaf evergreens (holly and nandinas).
As long as the plants are happy and growing, as I mentioned before, just be cautious in your applications and follow the directions on the packaging.

QUESTION: “I enjoyed your recent column about Knockout roses. I planted a couple of Red Knockout roses last spring. They have done pretty well. However Japanese beetles enjoyed feasting on them for a few weeks. When the beetles left the plants recovered pretty quickly. Should I trim the plants back during the cold months? Also, is this a good time to trim weigela bushes? I don't want them to get too large.” – Barbara Moses
ANSWER: The Red Knockout roses are just fabulous, aren't they? A product called Take Down Garden Spray works great on those little beetles. Be sure to spray around the base of the plants as well as the beetles burrow into the ground to reproduce. Actually if you have a severe problem with the Japanese beetles, it may take 1-2 years of spraying to break their cycle.

On a warm weekend in March, you may want to do your springclean up. On the knockouts and weigela, as well as other plants, prune out any branches that are broken, dead or crossing over each other. It is also a good time for shaping to your liking as you can see the plant without leaves to block the view.

Weigela can be pruned and shaped in early spring and then pruned again after blooming. It is possible that they may bloom again after the second pruning. But more, it keeps them to the size you prefer.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org