Even without a partridge, a pear tree can add a special touch of beauty to almost any landscape. But, depending on your needs – ornamental or fruiting - you should do a little research before you plant.
QUESTION: “I have been told you need two pear trees to produce fruit. I just planted an ornamental pear, FLW Cleve Select. My neighbor just across the road was told if you have another pear tree within a half mile, that would work for the second tree. He wants to plant a pear tree. My question: will my ornamental work for his "second" pear tree if he plants a fruit bearing pear or does he need two of his own? Thanks for your time and help.” -- Mickey VanSickle
ANSWER: Ornamental flowering pears will not work to cross pollinate fruiting pear trees. When planting a fruiting pear tree, a second variety of a pear tree should be planted within about 300 feet for cross pollination. The two fruiting pear varieties should either bloom at the same time or overlap their blooming period. Otherwise, pollination will not occur.
QUESTION: “I have a Cleveland pear tree and half of the leaves are dead-looking and brown colored. Any idea what is causing this problem? Your help is appreciated.” – John Young
ANSWER: It sounds as if your tree is showing signs of stress. A few things that you will want to check are: Fire blight Freeze damage Frost damage Wind damage Over/under watering Borers Residue from chemicals sprayed in the area
These are probably the most common reasons for pear trees to show stress. You can narrow the list by eliminating any that you know definitely could not be responsible. When you’ve narrowed the list, you might want to take a sample twig or a photo to a garden center or better still, call your nearest Ag Extension Service, as they might be knowledgeable about any causes specific to your local area. If you need help locating your local Extension Service, drop me an e-mail.
QUESTION: “I am having a problem with some of my trees that I plant that die due to girdling. The root just goes in a circle and kills itself. What can I do to prevent this?” – Fran Imlay
ANSWER: For readers who are unfamiliar with the term, girdling refers to the tendency of the roots of some trees to grow tightly around the main stem of the tree and slowly restrict the movement of water and nutrients. As a result, leaves become smaller, paler in color and less dense.
One preventative action is root pruning and/or fraying out the roots of container-grown plants before transplanting.
Here is a link to very helpful online article from the University of Ohio Extension Service about root girdling: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1139.html You can also click on a direct hot link to that article when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I am wondering if you can suggest to me what to plant in my backyard that seems to be damp and moist most of the time. We are having three of our Austrian pines removed because of the drought last summer. We have been told they are dead. The area is in direct sunlight and the ground area seems to be damp due to a water drop off. What are some good trees or plants to replace in this area? We want something for privacy as well as beauty.” -- Vernice
ANSWER: Sorry to hear about your pines, Vernice. I suggest you take a look at the following trees that could be what you need: Maples, bald cypress and river birch. Something you might not have thought of: Growing bamboo and taller growing grasses in larger containers. They provide quick privacy and can be moved around as other plants begin to grow taller. Some other plants that I’d suggest for your backyard are Canna lilies, Nandina, Hibiscus and laurels. I hope this gives you some ideas to build on.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Sustainable landscaping saves time, energy and money
Is your garden a sustainable landscape? Ideally, it should be. By “sustainable” I mean that it is in balance with the local climate and requires minimal resource inputs such as fertilizer, pesticides and water.
Take pesticides for example. One survey indicates that homeowners use ten times more pesticides per acre than farmers and two thirds of household users dispose of excess pesticides in the trash or down the drain. Detectable limits of pesticides have been found in 5% to 10% of wells as a result.
When it comes to your pocketbook, a single acre of lawn will cost you between $400 and $700 per year to maintain. And approximately 75,000 people require medical treatment every year for mower-related injuries.
Perhaps because of these factors, many homeowners are turning to a more naturalistic garden design. A naturalistic landscape requires less maintenance, reduces environmental harm, can benefit wildlife and still provides seasonal interest.
One way to create a successful naturalistic garden is to focus on native plants. Native plants are those that grow naturally in your geographic area rather than plants that are introduced from other parts of the country or from overseas.
Native plants are best adapted to local conditions and thrive with minimal care. Generally, native plants won’t harm natural areas. In a book titled “Wildflowers Across America,” Mrs. Lyndon Johnson wrote, “Wherever I go in America, I like it when the land speaks its own language in its own regional accent.”
A basic rule of thumb for a naturalistic sustainable garden is to select the right plant for the right place. By that, I mean it’s important to assess the site conditions, such as soil type, sun and shade and rainfall, and then select plants that thrive under those conditions.
I often hear from readers who say they have a sloping area of land that is experiencing soil erosion. The ideal solution is to plant some native groundcover plants that require little or no maintenance. The roots of groundcover plants hold the soil in place and also hold water, creating a healthy environment that prevents soil erosion and doesn’t need dangerous or risky mowing on a slope!
If you have a soil erosion issue or a hilly, sloping area that is hard to mow, a groundcover plant would probably be you best solution. You are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with some brief details of your situation and your geographic area and I’ll be happy to respond with some suggestions.
Meanwhile here are a couple of groundcover “idea starters.”
Bronze Ajuga
Sometimes known as Ajuga reptans or Carpet Bugle, this evergreen plant produces crowns and spreads by horizontal above-ground stems called stolens. It grows only to a height of 6” to 8” and produces spikes of attractive purple-blue flowers each spring.
Grass Carex Pennsylvania Sedge
When readers ask me what they can plant beneath trees, I often recommend Pennsylvania Sedge. It’s a native plant from West Virginia to Georgia to Alabama and forms soft, grass-like, 15 inch clumps of very narrow bright green leaves.
Heucheras Plum Pudding
This little guy won my heart! It grows well in shade and around trees. It’s a tough, long-lasting perennial that requires little maintenance.
Additionally, if heating and air conditioning costs are a concern, remember that trees on your landscape can lower energy bills by about 25% .
Recently, I’ve been traveling to some East African nations to assist in developing plans for sustainable agriculture that will boost their economy while growing much needed plants for the world market.
While in Ghana, I saw people carrying sturdy, colorful baskets that were so much better than the plastic or paper bags we use here to bring home groceries from the supermarket. I found that they are called Bolgatanga Market Baskets. They are hand-woven by Ghanaian artisans to provide income during the dry season. I brought home several baskets and now Cheryl and I use them constantly. If you’re interested in owning one or two of these baskets, drop me an e-mail and I’ll give you some shopping information.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Take pesticides for example. One survey indicates that homeowners use ten times more pesticides per acre than farmers and two thirds of household users dispose of excess pesticides in the trash or down the drain. Detectable limits of pesticides have been found in 5% to 10% of wells as a result.
When it comes to your pocketbook, a single acre of lawn will cost you between $400 and $700 per year to maintain. And approximately 75,000 people require medical treatment every year for mower-related injuries.
Perhaps because of these factors, many homeowners are turning to a more naturalistic garden design. A naturalistic landscape requires less maintenance, reduces environmental harm, can benefit wildlife and still provides seasonal interest.
One way to create a successful naturalistic garden is to focus on native plants. Native plants are those that grow naturally in your geographic area rather than plants that are introduced from other parts of the country or from overseas.
Native plants are best adapted to local conditions and thrive with minimal care. Generally, native plants won’t harm natural areas. In a book titled “Wildflowers Across America,” Mrs. Lyndon Johnson wrote, “Wherever I go in America, I like it when the land speaks its own language in its own regional accent.”
A basic rule of thumb for a naturalistic sustainable garden is to select the right plant for the right place. By that, I mean it’s important to assess the site conditions, such as soil type, sun and shade and rainfall, and then select plants that thrive under those conditions.
I often hear from readers who say they have a sloping area of land that is experiencing soil erosion. The ideal solution is to plant some native groundcover plants that require little or no maintenance. The roots of groundcover plants hold the soil in place and also hold water, creating a healthy environment that prevents soil erosion and doesn’t need dangerous or risky mowing on a slope!
If you have a soil erosion issue or a hilly, sloping area that is hard to mow, a groundcover plant would probably be you best solution. You are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with some brief details of your situation and your geographic area and I’ll be happy to respond with some suggestions.
Meanwhile here are a couple of groundcover “idea starters.”
Bronze Ajuga
Sometimes known as Ajuga reptans or Carpet Bugle, this evergreen plant produces crowns and spreads by horizontal above-ground stems called stolens. It grows only to a height of 6” to 8” and produces spikes of attractive purple-blue flowers each spring.
Grass Carex Pennsylvania Sedge
When readers ask me what they can plant beneath trees, I often recommend Pennsylvania Sedge. It’s a native plant from West Virginia to Georgia to Alabama and forms soft, grass-like, 15 inch clumps of very narrow bright green leaves.
Heucheras Plum Pudding
This little guy won my heart! It grows well in shade and around trees. It’s a tough, long-lasting perennial that requires little maintenance.
Additionally, if heating and air conditioning costs are a concern, remember that trees on your landscape can lower energy bills by about 25% .
Recently, I’ve been traveling to some East African nations to assist in developing plans for sustainable agriculture that will boost their economy while growing much needed plants for the world market.
While in Ghana, I saw people carrying sturdy, colorful baskets that were so much better than the plastic or paper bags we use here to bring home groceries from the supermarket. I found that they are called Bolgatanga Market Baskets. They are hand-woven by Ghanaian artisans to provide income during the dry season. I brought home several baskets and now Cheryl and I use them constantly. If you’re interested in owning one or two of these baskets, drop me an e-mail and I’ll give you some shopping information.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Weeds? The remedy could be in your kitchen
Drought might be a landscape’s biggest enemy, but sometimes too much rain can bring problems of its own, as this reader found.
QUESTION: “Following some recent heavy rain, I noticed a LOT of tiny bright green weeds suddenly sprouting up through the mulched beds in front of our house. I mean there are hundreds of them.
“My question is this: Is it safe to get rid of them by spraying them with Round Up? The beds contain several established evergreen shrubs, no small plants or flowers. The prospect of trying pull up each and every one of the little pests is almost too much to imagine, so I'm hoping I can get rid of them some other way, but of course I don't want to risk damaging the shrubs. What do you suggest?” – Mike H
ANSWER: Cheryl saw your question and said, “Put some white vinegar in a spray bottle and have at it. The vinegar in cooperation with the summer sun will kill off weeds. It may take a couple of good sprays, but you have to be stronger than the weeds. You can do it!”
Good advice, to which I would add this. Stir up the mulch every so often to disturb the roots of the little weeds. Do this in the hot part of the day so the ones on top do not have a chance to re-root. Round Up is good if the weeds are a certain height but not before that. A benefit of Cheryl’s solution is that it’s all natural. Use ordinary white vinegar, full strength. However, you still have to take the same care as if you were spraying Round Up and be careful not to spray the vinegar onto your non-weed plants.
A few days later, I received this e-mail from Mike: “Steve, I’d read one of your Plant Man columns that included a question from someone looking for highly concentrated vinegar to use as a weed killer. Because of that, I didn’t expect much from the ordinary vinegar I bought at the supermarket, but decided to give it a try. I put the vinegar in a plastic spray bottle and carefully sprayed the baby weeds. For good measure, I also sprayed some weeds coming up between the cobblestones in the front walk.
“When I looked the next day, the weeds I had sprayed had all shriveled up! As you suggest, I will stir up the mulch a bit and keep the vinegar spray handy for the next time the weeds emerge.”
QUESTION: “I have a Kwanzan cherry tree about 5 feet tall. It was doing GREAT… then a deer ate the leaves and as it pulled away it snapped the trunk (below the branch development). It was still hanging on so I taped it back up hoping it would heal. What should I do?” – David McDonald
ANSWER: There’s really not a lot that can be done over and above what you have done already. Frankly, the chances are it will not come back from the trauma caused by the deer.
However, one thing you can try is to angle-cut the tree at the base about 3 inches from the soil. It will sucker out stems if the tree is still viable. When most of the stems reach about 6 to 12 inches, cut off all except the best. You may have to stake it but probably not.
If your tree has a good root system, the roots will cause the “new” tree to grow to maybe where you were before the deer damage. Good luck!
You might also want to invest in a product called Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent. You can buy it as a 40 ounce concentrate or as a Pump & Spray combo pack that includes a 48 ounce pressure sprayer and 6 ounces of Liquid Fence, enough to make three quarts of repellent shat should be enough to treat 1,500 square feet. If you need some shopping information, drop me an e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “Following some recent heavy rain, I noticed a LOT of tiny bright green weeds suddenly sprouting up through the mulched beds in front of our house. I mean there are hundreds of them.
“My question is this: Is it safe to get rid of them by spraying them with Round Up? The beds contain several established evergreen shrubs, no small plants or flowers. The prospect of trying pull up each and every one of the little pests is almost too much to imagine, so I'm hoping I can get rid of them some other way, but of course I don't want to risk damaging the shrubs. What do you suggest?” – Mike H
ANSWER: Cheryl saw your question and said, “Put some white vinegar in a spray bottle and have at it. The vinegar in cooperation with the summer sun will kill off weeds. It may take a couple of good sprays, but you have to be stronger than the weeds. You can do it!”
Good advice, to which I would add this. Stir up the mulch every so often to disturb the roots of the little weeds. Do this in the hot part of the day so the ones on top do not have a chance to re-root. Round Up is good if the weeds are a certain height but not before that. A benefit of Cheryl’s solution is that it’s all natural. Use ordinary white vinegar, full strength. However, you still have to take the same care as if you were spraying Round Up and be careful not to spray the vinegar onto your non-weed plants.
A few days later, I received this e-mail from Mike: “Steve, I’d read one of your Plant Man columns that included a question from someone looking for highly concentrated vinegar to use as a weed killer. Because of that, I didn’t expect much from the ordinary vinegar I bought at the supermarket, but decided to give it a try. I put the vinegar in a plastic spray bottle and carefully sprayed the baby weeds. For good measure, I also sprayed some weeds coming up between the cobblestones in the front walk.
“When I looked the next day, the weeds I had sprayed had all shriveled up! As you suggest, I will stir up the mulch a bit and keep the vinegar spray handy for the next time the weeds emerge.”
QUESTION: “I have a Kwanzan cherry tree about 5 feet tall. It was doing GREAT… then a deer ate the leaves and as it pulled away it snapped the trunk (below the branch development). It was still hanging on so I taped it back up hoping it would heal. What should I do?” – David McDonald
ANSWER: There’s really not a lot that can be done over and above what you have done already. Frankly, the chances are it will not come back from the trauma caused by the deer.
However, one thing you can try is to angle-cut the tree at the base about 3 inches from the soil. It will sucker out stems if the tree is still viable. When most of the stems reach about 6 to 12 inches, cut off all except the best. You may have to stake it but probably not.
If your tree has a good root system, the roots will cause the “new” tree to grow to maybe where you were before the deer damage. Good luck!
You might also want to invest in a product called Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent. You can buy it as a 40 ounce concentrate or as a Pump & Spray combo pack that includes a 48 ounce pressure sprayer and 6 ounces of Liquid Fence, enough to make three quarts of repellent shat should be enough to treat 1,500 square feet. If you need some shopping information, drop me an e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 09, 2008
Books and products that add to garden fun
I’ve always thought that cooking enthusiasts and garden lovers have a lot in common.
For example, cooks tend to have a shelf full of cookbooks and always seem to have room for “just one more.” Additionally, they love to find cool tools and gadgets that will make their lives easier and more productive.
In the same way, gardeners tend to be voracious readers of books on every aspect of plants, garden design and landscaping. And no shed feels complete without an array of garden tools and related outdoor products!
Today, I’ll point you at a few items that you (or your garden-obsessed significant other) might find fun, useful or maybe even both.
Let’s start with books…
“Don’t Throw It, Grow it” by Deborah Peterson When is a leftover piece of gingerroot not merely destined for the compost heap, or a wrinkled potato well past its prime more than just an affront to the eye and nose? When Deborah Peterson gets her hands on it and transforms it into a windowsill plant.
Visitors to our Web site www.landsteward.org know that Cheryl and I are strong advocates of recycling. If kitchen scraps can find a new life as attractive houseplants or even homegrown food, so much the better.
Peterson’s book includes growing instructions for 68 plants in four broad categories – kitchen vegetables, fruits and nuts, herbs and spices, and more exotic plants. With Peterson’s help, a sweet potato turns into a blooming vine; chickpeas transform into cheery hanging baskets; a humble beet becomes a dramatic centerpiece; and gingerroot grows into a three-foot bamboo-like stalk.
“Designer Plant Combinations” by Scott Calhoun If you’ve watched the HGTV show about the 25 biggest landscaping mistakes, you’ll remember that one of the mistakes was called “scattered color.” Professional landscape designers think in terms of a palette of colors that enhance each other, whereas amateurs often scatter colors like randomly-dropped crayons.
In this new book (available August 2008) Calhoun demonstrates 105 plans that use six plants or fewer. Rather than complete garden designs, these combinations are small, understandable pieces intended to demystify the design process for home gardeners, particularly those dealing with small spaces.
Filled with photos and illustrations, this book should inspire the exterior decorator in every homeowner.
Moving out of the bookshop and into the back yard…
Bat House Kit
The most natural way to control mosquitoes is to allow bats to feed on them. A single bat can eat hundreds or even thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, and a bat house kit is a fun project to share with the kids or grandkids.
Mosquito Repellents
For the skeeters that escape from the bats, you need a way to keep them away from you when you are outdoors. Apart from that annoying itch, insect bites can cause West Nile virus, Lyme disease and malaria. Two new products claim to repel mosquitoes and other flying insects without the use of DEET.
Don’t Bite Me! patches are discreet, all-natural transdermal skin patches that deliver a blend of protective Vitamin B1 and aloe throughout the body. The manufacturer says that the waterproof patches can protect against bites from mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, chiggers and sand fleas for up to 36 hours. Unlike a spray, the patch will protect often-missed body areas such as ears, nose and scalp. The patches are available in 5-pack boxes for $4.99 and 10-packs for $7.99.
BugBand is another DEET-free repellent designed to protect you from biting and blood-sucking insects. It’s a wristband impregnated with Gerantol, a natural plant-based that keeps flying insects at a safe distance. BugBand is reusable (for up to 120 hours) and each band comes with its own storage pod in which to keep it between uses. Individual BugBands cost $4.95 and a four-pack is $14.95.
Liquid Net for Horses is a DEET-free pump spray specifically designed for horses. Spray it on your horse before you hit the trail and the flies, gnats and mosquitoes will stay away from your horse… and you.
So put on some bug repellent, build a bat house and relax in the garden with a couple of inspirational books.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
For example, cooks tend to have a shelf full of cookbooks and always seem to have room for “just one more.” Additionally, they love to find cool tools and gadgets that will make their lives easier and more productive.
In the same way, gardeners tend to be voracious readers of books on every aspect of plants, garden design and landscaping. And no shed feels complete without an array of garden tools and related outdoor products!
Today, I’ll point you at a few items that you (or your garden-obsessed significant other) might find fun, useful or maybe even both.
Let’s start with books…
“Don’t Throw It, Grow it” by Deborah Peterson When is a leftover piece of gingerroot not merely destined for the compost heap, or a wrinkled potato well past its prime more than just an affront to the eye and nose? When Deborah Peterson gets her hands on it and transforms it into a windowsill plant.
Visitors to our Web site www.landsteward.org know that Cheryl and I are strong advocates of recycling. If kitchen scraps can find a new life as attractive houseplants or even homegrown food, so much the better.
Peterson’s book includes growing instructions for 68 plants in four broad categories – kitchen vegetables, fruits and nuts, herbs and spices, and more exotic plants. With Peterson’s help, a sweet potato turns into a blooming vine; chickpeas transform into cheery hanging baskets; a humble beet becomes a dramatic centerpiece; and gingerroot grows into a three-foot bamboo-like stalk.
“Designer Plant Combinations” by Scott Calhoun If you’ve watched the HGTV show about the 25 biggest landscaping mistakes, you’ll remember that one of the mistakes was called “scattered color.” Professional landscape designers think in terms of a palette of colors that enhance each other, whereas amateurs often scatter colors like randomly-dropped crayons.
In this new book (available August 2008) Calhoun demonstrates 105 plans that use six plants or fewer. Rather than complete garden designs, these combinations are small, understandable pieces intended to demystify the design process for home gardeners, particularly those dealing with small spaces.
Filled with photos and illustrations, this book should inspire the exterior decorator in every homeowner.
Moving out of the bookshop and into the back yard…
Bat House Kit
The most natural way to control mosquitoes is to allow bats to feed on them. A single bat can eat hundreds or even thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, and a bat house kit is a fun project to share with the kids or grandkids.
Mosquito Repellents
For the skeeters that escape from the bats, you need a way to keep them away from you when you are outdoors. Apart from that annoying itch, insect bites can cause West Nile virus, Lyme disease and malaria. Two new products claim to repel mosquitoes and other flying insects without the use of DEET.
Don’t Bite Me! patches are discreet, all-natural transdermal skin patches that deliver a blend of protective Vitamin B1 and aloe throughout the body. The manufacturer says that the waterproof patches can protect against bites from mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, chiggers and sand fleas for up to 36 hours. Unlike a spray, the patch will protect often-missed body areas such as ears, nose and scalp. The patches are available in 5-pack boxes for $4.99 and 10-packs for $7.99.
BugBand is another DEET-free repellent designed to protect you from biting and blood-sucking insects. It’s a wristband impregnated with Gerantol, a natural plant-based that keeps flying insects at a safe distance. BugBand is reusable (for up to 120 hours) and each band comes with its own storage pod in which to keep it between uses. Individual BugBands cost $4.95 and a four-pack is $14.95.
Liquid Net for Horses is a DEET-free pump spray specifically designed for horses. Spray it on your horse before you hit the trail and the flies, gnats and mosquitoes will stay away from your horse… and you.
So put on some bug repellent, build a bat house and relax in the garden with a couple of inspirational books.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
These Hellebore “ladies” arrive early, stay late
The height of summer might be an odd time to be thinking of winter but that is just what I was doing the other day. Cheryl and I were looking at some of our Hellebores and I was reminded that these plants are among the very first to bloom each year. In many areas, Hellebores are blooming as early as February.
The Hellebore genus is native to Europe and varieties can be found from the Mediterranean region to the northern reaches of Ukraine and into the Caucasus states such as Georgia, Armenia and Southern Russia. Perhaps this diversity explains why many Hellebore varieties feel at home in the varied climates of the United States.
If you are considering adding Hellebores to your own landscape, I will describe four easy-care hybrids that might be perfect for you. But first, let me share some fascinating facts and myths about these intriguing plants.
At first glance, it seems that the Hellebore’s petals remain long after you would have expected them to wither and die back. The reason? They are not petals at all. Each flower has five petal-like sepals that surround a ring of small nectaries that are the “real” petals, secreting nectar that attracts pollinators. The true job of a sepal in nature is to protect a flower in bud. In the case of Hellebores, the sepals themselves remain to become a delightful, and often colorful, feature of the plant.
One variety of Hellebore is nicknamed “The Christmas Rose” even though it is definitely not a member of the rose family and does not bloom at Christmas. Legend has it that it sprouted up through the snow from the tears of a little girl crying because she had no gift for the baby Jesus.
On the other hand, there are folklore tales of witches adding Hellebore to their cauldrons to summon up demons. However, other legends describe Hellebore being used to ward off demons. A versatile plant indeed!
There is evidence that the Ancient Greeks used certain Hellebore varieties for medicinal purposes, often as a purge or an emetic. However, the roots of certain Hellebores can be highly toxic and I strongly advise you not to self-medicate with any Hellebore plants!
Leaving aside tears in the snow, demons, medicines and poisons, Hellebores can certainly be an excellent addition to your landscape, particularly when you want to see some floral color in later winter and early spring.
Hellebore Red Lady
This hybrid produces red-maroon sepals in winter that persist into May.
Hellebore Blue Lady
This is one of the darkest forms of Hellebore with deep purple-blue flowers that I find breathtaking.
Hellebore Pink Lady
If you prefer a more delicate color, the Pink Lady could be for you, with her showy, cup-like sepals in shades of pale pink.
Hellebore Ivory Prince Plant this handsome young fellow alongside one (or more) of the beautiful Ladies. Prince’s creamy-white coloring compliments his showier companions.
All of the hybrids I’ve described here have lush, shiny, evergreen foliage that is very attractive even when not in bloom. Growing to a height of only one to two feet, these Hellebores can make a delightful groundcover forming clumps about two feet wide.
If your landscape includes a raised bed, so much the better as you’ll be able to really appreciate the beauty of their colorful, gently nodding heads.
In a perfect world, these Hellebores would prefer being placed on the edge of a woodland setting with moist loamy soil. To approximate these conditions, plant them in a semi-shaded area in soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig a hole twice as large as the root ball and add some compost or other bulky organic matter before planting the Hellebore.
These deer-resistant hybrids are long-lived and require little or no care once established, but they seem to flower more vigorously when organic matter is added in the spring.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
The Hellebore genus is native to Europe and varieties can be found from the Mediterranean region to the northern reaches of Ukraine and into the Caucasus states such as Georgia, Armenia and Southern Russia. Perhaps this diversity explains why many Hellebore varieties feel at home in the varied climates of the United States.
If you are considering adding Hellebores to your own landscape, I will describe four easy-care hybrids that might be perfect for you. But first, let me share some fascinating facts and myths about these intriguing plants.
At first glance, it seems that the Hellebore’s petals remain long after you would have expected them to wither and die back. The reason? They are not petals at all. Each flower has five petal-like sepals that surround a ring of small nectaries that are the “real” petals, secreting nectar that attracts pollinators. The true job of a sepal in nature is to protect a flower in bud. In the case of Hellebores, the sepals themselves remain to become a delightful, and often colorful, feature of the plant.
One variety of Hellebore is nicknamed “The Christmas Rose” even though it is definitely not a member of the rose family and does not bloom at Christmas. Legend has it that it sprouted up through the snow from the tears of a little girl crying because she had no gift for the baby Jesus.
On the other hand, there are folklore tales of witches adding Hellebore to their cauldrons to summon up demons. However, other legends describe Hellebore being used to ward off demons. A versatile plant indeed!
There is evidence that the Ancient Greeks used certain Hellebore varieties for medicinal purposes, often as a purge or an emetic. However, the roots of certain Hellebores can be highly toxic and I strongly advise you not to self-medicate with any Hellebore plants!
Leaving aside tears in the snow, demons, medicines and poisons, Hellebores can certainly be an excellent addition to your landscape, particularly when you want to see some floral color in later winter and early spring.
Hellebore Red Lady
This hybrid produces red-maroon sepals in winter that persist into May.
Hellebore Blue Lady
This is one of the darkest forms of Hellebore with deep purple-blue flowers that I find breathtaking.
Hellebore Pink Lady
If you prefer a more delicate color, the Pink Lady could be for you, with her showy, cup-like sepals in shades of pale pink.
Hellebore Ivory Prince Plant this handsome young fellow alongside one (or more) of the beautiful Ladies. Prince’s creamy-white coloring compliments his showier companions.
All of the hybrids I’ve described here have lush, shiny, evergreen foliage that is very attractive even when not in bloom. Growing to a height of only one to two feet, these Hellebores can make a delightful groundcover forming clumps about two feet wide.
If your landscape includes a raised bed, so much the better as you’ll be able to really appreciate the beauty of their colorful, gently nodding heads.
In a perfect world, these Hellebores would prefer being placed on the edge of a woodland setting with moist loamy soil. To approximate these conditions, plant them in a semi-shaded area in soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig a hole twice as large as the root ball and add some compost or other bulky organic matter before planting the Hellebore.
These deer-resistant hybrids are long-lived and require little or no care once established, but they seem to flower more vigorously when organic matter is added in the spring.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Monday, June 23, 2008
Defensive planting deters moles
In a recent column there was a question from a reader who had a problem with moles. I asked for suggestions from other readers and I received a lot of response. If moles are giving you headaches, you might find these ideas helpful.
DEAR STEVE: ”I'm not quite sure what eats tulip bulbs, but I seem to have hit on a solution. The first year we had our country weekend place I planted tulips and saw not a single one in the following spring. Whatever it was did not eat or burrow through the daffodils or the bearded iris I planted.
”Last year I decided to try again and planted a circle of daffodils shoulder to shoulder around each clump of five tulips. This involved opening a 12-14" diameter hole of the appropriate depth so that all bulbs could be deployed at the same time at the same depth. I covered them all up and when I was up to the appropriate depth, I put in aconite, muscari and crocus. Everything arrived in its turn this spring.
“The burrowing creatures at the bottom of the garden - moles or voles or likely both - almost killed Madame Isaac Periere by tunneling right under her this year, but avoided the chionadoxa planted in little clumps between the roses. I'm thinking they are planted at just about the same depth as the tunneling denizens of the lower yard and I am going to try tight phalanxes of such things around the ornamentals down there, making sure I have something planted at every depth I've seen the tunnels. It's the Catskills; you don't go too deep before you hit rock and the rock attracts the earthworms and the excavations I hog out to put in ornamentals like the roses make easy ground for burrowing creatures.
”I don't know if this sort of defensive planting will work in this case, but the iris and daffodils I planted that first year are still there after four years in the middle of mole/vole metropolis. The iris are planted deeper there than I would have done down in Virginia where I come from because of the hard winters, so you'd think they would be subject to mole damage, but I've never found any tunnels under them. They thrive and grow enormous in the mountain climate and I have not seen any rhizome rot issues even though they do have to be covered with about an inch or two of earth.
“My suggestion: I'd try the repellant you described and some defensive planting. Other things down there that have never shown any sign of tunneling damage are coneflower and black-eyed susan, daylilies, peonies and shasta daisies.
“The garden backs up against a rather boggy bit of meadow that slopes down to our pond and nothing in that meadow seems bothered and the main residents are an assortment of grasses as well as Joe Pye weed (pink eupatorium) and its cousin, White Snake Root, white turtle heads further down, solidago in several varieties, blue vervain, elderberry, both the early purple and the later red, cuckoo flower (cardamine p.), false solomon's seal, Canadian Mayapple, an assortment of asters and daisy fleabane, blue cohosh and trout lily at the higher dryer part, wild strawberries and other things too numerous to mention that grow and bloom and contribute to the lovely tumble.
“More cultivated things that were planted before we arrived up at the dry part where tunneling has been observed are Russian sage, creeping phlox and lamium, Mallow and butterfly weed also persist as well as chives. The clump of chives the former owners left behind is now a five foot swath. Onion-like plants might be a clue!” - Alice Standin
DEAR STEVE: I read your column with a question from a woman having critter problems. How well I know the problem! A friend gave me a Spurge plant a couple of years ago that truly works. As you know, they are quite invasive and toxic. As my garden is extensive, I have a “Spurge purge” about once a year, but now I have no moles or voles”. – Jo Laxton
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
DEAR STEVE: ”I'm not quite sure what eats tulip bulbs, but I seem to have hit on a solution. The first year we had our country weekend place I planted tulips and saw not a single one in the following spring. Whatever it was did not eat or burrow through the daffodils or the bearded iris I planted.
”Last year I decided to try again and planted a circle of daffodils shoulder to shoulder around each clump of five tulips. This involved opening a 12-14" diameter hole of the appropriate depth so that all bulbs could be deployed at the same time at the same depth. I covered them all up and when I was up to the appropriate depth, I put in aconite, muscari and crocus. Everything arrived in its turn this spring.
“The burrowing creatures at the bottom of the garden - moles or voles or likely both - almost killed Madame Isaac Periere by tunneling right under her this year, but avoided the chionadoxa planted in little clumps between the roses. I'm thinking they are planted at just about the same depth as the tunneling denizens of the lower yard and I am going to try tight phalanxes of such things around the ornamentals down there, making sure I have something planted at every depth I've seen the tunnels. It's the Catskills; you don't go too deep before you hit rock and the rock attracts the earthworms and the excavations I hog out to put in ornamentals like the roses make easy ground for burrowing creatures.
”I don't know if this sort of defensive planting will work in this case, but the iris and daffodils I planted that first year are still there after four years in the middle of mole/vole metropolis. The iris are planted deeper there than I would have done down in Virginia where I come from because of the hard winters, so you'd think they would be subject to mole damage, but I've never found any tunnels under them. They thrive and grow enormous in the mountain climate and I have not seen any rhizome rot issues even though they do have to be covered with about an inch or two of earth.
“My suggestion: I'd try the repellant you described and some defensive planting. Other things down there that have never shown any sign of tunneling damage are coneflower and black-eyed susan, daylilies, peonies and shasta daisies.
“The garden backs up against a rather boggy bit of meadow that slopes down to our pond and nothing in that meadow seems bothered and the main residents are an assortment of grasses as well as Joe Pye weed (pink eupatorium) and its cousin, White Snake Root, white turtle heads further down, solidago in several varieties, blue vervain, elderberry, both the early purple and the later red, cuckoo flower (cardamine p.), false solomon's seal, Canadian Mayapple, an assortment of asters and daisy fleabane, blue cohosh and trout lily at the higher dryer part, wild strawberries and other things too numerous to mention that grow and bloom and contribute to the lovely tumble.
“More cultivated things that were planted before we arrived up at the dry part where tunneling has been observed are Russian sage, creeping phlox and lamium, Mallow and butterfly weed also persist as well as chives. The clump of chives the former owners left behind is now a five foot swath. Onion-like plants might be a clue!” - Alice Standin
DEAR STEVE: I read your column with a question from a woman having critter problems. How well I know the problem! A friend gave me a Spurge plant a couple of years ago that truly works. As you know, they are quite invasive and toxic. As my garden is extensive, I have a “Spurge purge” about once a year, but now I have no moles or voles”. – Jo Laxton
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Plant your way to a private backyard haven
During spring and summer we all tend to spend more time enjoying the outdoors part of our home. A lazy lunch on the patio on Sunday, perhaps, or relaxing on the deck with a cool drink as the sun goes down. Maybe an impromptu picnic in the backyard.
If you happen to live in a remote country setting, your closest neighbors are probably deer, bunnies and other assorted wildlife. But for most of us, suburban living means that our homes are in fairly close proximity to those of our human neighbors. Sometimes a little too close for comfort.
You don’t have to be a hermit to want a little privacy when relaxing in your backyard. But at the same time, you don’t want to build a mini version of the Berlin Wall and alienate everyone in the neighborhood. What can you do to create a private haven in your backyard while continuing to live in harmony with your neighbors?
Creating privacy with trees, shrubs and other plants provides a number of benefits. Firstly, of course, living plants are a lot more aesthetically pleasing than a “dead” wall or an expanse of bare fence. Additionally, a hedge or some appropriately-sized trees are a friendlier barrier between you and your neighbors than a solid wall.
“Appropriately sized” is an important factor here. A relatively small space would not be a suitable location for a stand of trees that would grow to a great height because they would eventually dominate your yard, blocking out all sunlight and probably becoming a bone of contention with your neighbors! Always determine the expected mature height before you invest in any trees that are intended to form a barrier.
So what to plant? Every situation will have its own unique characteristics, but a good starting point would be to look at…
Thuja Green Giant
I find myself recommending the Green Giant more and more these days, particularly to homeowners looking for some privacy. For a start, it’s remarkably fast growing, shooting up three feet or more every year. Green Giant is an evergreen conifer with a delightful conical habit and dense, dark green foliage that reaches right down the ground. A few Green Giants, planted about 5 feet apart will create a very dense screen; plant them further apart for a more open feel.
Green Giant doesn’t need a lot of TLC. It’s a hardy plant that tolerates almost any soil and is resistant to damage from ice and snow. Additionally, it is heat and drought tolerant, once established, and resistant to disease, pests and even deer.
Although it doesn’t need to be pruned, you should be aware that it can grow to a height of 30 to 50 feet. If you are planting a row of Green Giants as a living fence, you can easily keep it trimmed to 8 feet, 10 feet or whatever works in your situation.
This is a good time to be planning your privacy needs because fall will be here before we know it and Green Giant is ideal for fall planting. As you can see, this tree is definitely a favorite of mine! But there are other ways to use plants to enhance your privacy.
Dark Green Arborvitae
If you can wait until next spring, you might consider Dark Green, my favorite Arborvitae. Plant The Dark Green in a row about 5 to 7 feet apart in the spring and in a few years, you’ll have a lustrous green hedge that maintains its color through the winter. You’ll need patience as it’s not a fast grower, but it is worth the wait.
Trellis plants Just a reminder that, in a recent column, I described some “social climbers;” vine-like plants that cling to pergolas, gazebos and latticework. If you missed it, you can find that column at our informational website, www.landsteward.org. A strategically placed trellis can provide privacy but in a more open, less dense way than a row of Green Giants.
You are welcome to send me a few details about your specific challenges and I’ll try to help you create a private haven in your backyard.
If you happen to live in a remote country setting, your closest neighbors are probably deer, bunnies and other assorted wildlife. But for most of us, suburban living means that our homes are in fairly close proximity to those of our human neighbors. Sometimes a little too close for comfort.
You don’t have to be a hermit to want a little privacy when relaxing in your backyard. But at the same time, you don’t want to build a mini version of the Berlin Wall and alienate everyone in the neighborhood. What can you do to create a private haven in your backyard while continuing to live in harmony with your neighbors?
Creating privacy with trees, shrubs and other plants provides a number of benefits. Firstly, of course, living plants are a lot more aesthetically pleasing than a “dead” wall or an expanse of bare fence. Additionally, a hedge or some appropriately-sized trees are a friendlier barrier between you and your neighbors than a solid wall.
“Appropriately sized” is an important factor here. A relatively small space would not be a suitable location for a stand of trees that would grow to a great height because they would eventually dominate your yard, blocking out all sunlight and probably becoming a bone of contention with your neighbors! Always determine the expected mature height before you invest in any trees that are intended to form a barrier.
So what to plant? Every situation will have its own unique characteristics, but a good starting point would be to look at…
Thuja Green Giant
I find myself recommending the Green Giant more and more these days, particularly to homeowners looking for some privacy. For a start, it’s remarkably fast growing, shooting up three feet or more every year. Green Giant is an evergreen conifer with a delightful conical habit and dense, dark green foliage that reaches right down the ground. A few Green Giants, planted about 5 feet apart will create a very dense screen; plant them further apart for a more open feel.
Green Giant doesn’t need a lot of TLC. It’s a hardy plant that tolerates almost any soil and is resistant to damage from ice and snow. Additionally, it is heat and drought tolerant, once established, and resistant to disease, pests and even deer.
Although it doesn’t need to be pruned, you should be aware that it can grow to a height of 30 to 50 feet. If you are planting a row of Green Giants as a living fence, you can easily keep it trimmed to 8 feet, 10 feet or whatever works in your situation.
This is a good time to be planning your privacy needs because fall will be here before we know it and Green Giant is ideal for fall planting. As you can see, this tree is definitely a favorite of mine! But there are other ways to use plants to enhance your privacy.
Dark Green Arborvitae
If you can wait until next spring, you might consider Dark Green, my favorite Arborvitae. Plant The Dark Green in a row about 5 to 7 feet apart in the spring and in a few years, you’ll have a lustrous green hedge that maintains its color through the winter. You’ll need patience as it’s not a fast grower, but it is worth the wait.
Trellis plants Just a reminder that, in a recent column, I described some “social climbers;” vine-like plants that cling to pergolas, gazebos and latticework. If you missed it, you can find that column at our informational website, www.landsteward.org. A strategically placed trellis can provide privacy but in a more open, less dense way than a row of Green Giants.
You are welcome to send me a few details about your specific challenges and I’ll try to help you create a private haven in your backyard.
Tuesday, June 03, 2008
Invite these social climbers into your garden
If you have an ugly fence or a bare expanse of wall, a lush, green vine might be the answer you’re looking for.
The word “vine” once referred only to grape plants, but now in American English usage, vine can include many varieties of climbing and creeping plants.
I know some people are hesitant to plant any kind of vine as they fear its potential to become invasive. However, if you are aware of this potential at the outset, you can either select varieties that are minimally invasive or decide to control the spread of your vines to keep them manageable.
Most vines are remarkably versatile plants, able to grow vertically if given a trellis or wall to cling to, or to spread horizontally across the landscape, creating a dense and verdant groundcover.
Let’s take a look at a few vines so you can see which ones might work best for you.
Climbing Hydrangea
A good choice if you will be planting away from direct sunlight because Climbing Hydrangeas are tolerant of shady areas. Actually, they prefer at least partial shade in hot areas of the country. However, they bloom more profusely when exposed to a fair amount of sun.
In early summer, Climbing Hydrangeas produce fragrant white groupings of blooms called lace caps, each about five inches across. The dried flower heads and reddish brown, peeling bark are attractive in winter. Climbing hydrangeas prefer moist but well-drained soil that is at least moderately rich.
Wisteria sinensis Also known as Purple Wisteria, due to the color of its blooms, this is a fast-growing vine that is ideal for trellises and arbors. You can also train it into tree form if you prefer. The bright purple flowers are about one inch long, appearing in late May, borne in dense, 6 to 12 inch long racemes.
Wisteria is actually a member of the Pea family and is named after an eighteenth century anatomy professor named Caspar Wistar. You can read a helpful fact sheet titled Growing Wisteria, published by the Ohio State University Extension Service at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1246.html
English Ivy
Yup, this one really can be invasive, so understand that you will probably need to keep an eye on it and be prepared to take steps to contain it if it begins to spread beyond your desired area. Having said that, English Ivy is a very attractive plant (except to those who consider it a pest) and its dark green, glossy leaves, growing vertically in a dense mass can add an established characteristic quite quickly to new construction.
Baltic Ivy
As much a spreader as a climber, Baltic Ivy is often used as a groundcover in northern zones as it is an evergreen with remarkable cold hardiness properties. In fact it was brought to America from Latvia in 1907 by Alfred Rehder, curator of the Herbarium at Harvard University, who gave it the name “Baltic” Ivy.
A university bulletin, published in March 1932, stated that the plants: “have grown into a solid mantle of green reaching well above the second story windows.” As a consequence, in 1937, a journalist coined the term “Ivy League” to describe Harvard and seven other northeastern universities.
Purple Wintercreeper
Although it certainly can climb, given the opportunity, Purple Wintercreeper is seen most often as a groundcover. It can spread almost indefinitely by way of rooting stems, and thus it could be a good choice for an edger alongside a path or driveway that would act as a natural container.
Purple Wintercreeper can be a useful plant to battle erosion on slopes and hillsides and I have seen it climbing walls and the outsides of chimneys. It works equally well in the sunny or shady areas of your landscape.
Just a reminder: as I’ve mentioned before, a product that can be effective in controlling spreading vines is an herbicide called Vine-X Vine and Brush Control. Vines can be a pleasing addition to your landscape when kept properly under control. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
The word “vine” once referred only to grape plants, but now in American English usage, vine can include many varieties of climbing and creeping plants.
I know some people are hesitant to plant any kind of vine as they fear its potential to become invasive. However, if you are aware of this potential at the outset, you can either select varieties that are minimally invasive or decide to control the spread of your vines to keep them manageable.
Most vines are remarkably versatile plants, able to grow vertically if given a trellis or wall to cling to, or to spread horizontally across the landscape, creating a dense and verdant groundcover.
Let’s take a look at a few vines so you can see which ones might work best for you.
Climbing Hydrangea
A good choice if you will be planting away from direct sunlight because Climbing Hydrangeas are tolerant of shady areas. Actually, they prefer at least partial shade in hot areas of the country. However, they bloom more profusely when exposed to a fair amount of sun.
In early summer, Climbing Hydrangeas produce fragrant white groupings of blooms called lace caps, each about five inches across. The dried flower heads and reddish brown, peeling bark are attractive in winter. Climbing hydrangeas prefer moist but well-drained soil that is at least moderately rich.
Wisteria sinensis Also known as Purple Wisteria, due to the color of its blooms, this is a fast-growing vine that is ideal for trellises and arbors. You can also train it into tree form if you prefer. The bright purple flowers are about one inch long, appearing in late May, borne in dense, 6 to 12 inch long racemes.
Wisteria is actually a member of the Pea family and is named after an eighteenth century anatomy professor named Caspar Wistar. You can read a helpful fact sheet titled Growing Wisteria, published by the Ohio State University Extension Service at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1246.html
English Ivy
Yup, this one really can be invasive, so understand that you will probably need to keep an eye on it and be prepared to take steps to contain it if it begins to spread beyond your desired area. Having said that, English Ivy is a very attractive plant (except to those who consider it a pest) and its dark green, glossy leaves, growing vertically in a dense mass can add an established characteristic quite quickly to new construction.
Baltic Ivy
As much a spreader as a climber, Baltic Ivy is often used as a groundcover in northern zones as it is an evergreen with remarkable cold hardiness properties. In fact it was brought to America from Latvia in 1907 by Alfred Rehder, curator of the Herbarium at Harvard University, who gave it the name “Baltic” Ivy.
A university bulletin, published in March 1932, stated that the plants: “have grown into a solid mantle of green reaching well above the second story windows.” As a consequence, in 1937, a journalist coined the term “Ivy League” to describe Harvard and seven other northeastern universities.
Purple Wintercreeper
Although it certainly can climb, given the opportunity, Purple Wintercreeper is seen most often as a groundcover. It can spread almost indefinitely by way of rooting stems, and thus it could be a good choice for an edger alongside a path or driveway that would act as a natural container.
Purple Wintercreeper can be a useful plant to battle erosion on slopes and hillsides and I have seen it climbing walls and the outsides of chimneys. It works equally well in the sunny or shady areas of your landscape.
Just a reminder: as I’ve mentioned before, a product that can be effective in controlling spreading vines is an herbicide called Vine-X Vine and Brush Control. Vines can be a pleasing addition to your landscape when kept properly under control. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Holy Mole-y! Reader needs help with burrowing critters
Garden pests come in all shapes and sizes. Some have four legs, some have six or even eight legs. Some, with no legs at all, slither on their bellies, while others fly or creepy-crawl. But sometimes the most frustrating critters are the ones that tunnel below the surface and chomp away on your plant roots.
Perhaps you have a solution to help this reader with her problem…
QUESTION: “Any new ideas on how to deal with a serious mole problem in our acre of heavily landscaped yard and gardens?
“We live in the country, and our house is on former farm land and pastures. I understand that moles are supposed to be very territorial creatures, and that only one or two moles are supposed to inhabit an acre of land, but we know that we have many more, because we can visibly see them tunneling along in different areas of our garden.
“My husband and I respect all forms of life and refuse to attempt to trap, poison, harpoon, electrocute, gas, or shovel-bludgeon these little creatures to death, but we are very tired of repairing all the damage that they do to our beds and the expensive plants that they manage to uproot. We've tried all kinds of folk lore remedies to discourage them from our yard (such as pepper based products), and we've tried the commercial castor-oil based sprays (makes your soil terribly sticky and sickly!), to no avail.
“We've also tried the ultrasonic in-ground devices, but I swear that the moles seem to be attracted by anything new that we introduce to the ground and they do MORE damage in the areas that we try to protect with such devices. We've also tried to plant things in plastic or wire mesh cages to prevent root damage as they tunnel around, but again, these little critters seem to go berserk in the "protected areas" and tunnel out all the soil surrounding such cages, thus defeating the purpose of this time-consuming effort.
“In frustration, I bought traps, but couldn't bring myself to use them. We've considered getting a cat, or perhaps a couple of ferrets, or maybe a boa constrictor to set free in the yard... but, alas, we have a thriving bird community that would be threatened by the cat... and recruiting other critters to kill the moles isn’t really consistent with our "violence-free" philosophy, is it?
“Have you any other ideas that might make our garden a little less appealing to these creatures?” – Deborah Abraham
ANSWER: I can empathize with you because we have similar problems in our gardens. I have used a product called Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent and it works for us.
It’s a simple product to use in that you simply attach the container to your garden hose and spray the ground. Apparently it works by coating earthworms and plant roots with something highly distasteful to moles but harmless to humans and animals. The moles tunnel elsewhere in search of tastier meals. Contrary to popular belief, moles almost never eat plants, subsisting on worms and other small invertebrates, but they can damage plants by undermining the roots and often create molehills on lawns.
However it is a constant problem. When you use the product the moles move on but within a month more are back and you need to repeat the process. We feel the same way about killing the little things and that is why we do this once a month rather that put out traps or poison. The manufacturers claim that the product is biodegradable and environmentally safe.
You mentioned folk remedies, and I’m guessing that there are hundreds out there! So come on, readers: Share your mole-be-gone solutions and help Deborah and other frustrated gardeners! Remember, your remedy must be effective in your experience (rather than hearsay) and should be humane and non-toxic. You might see your remedy included here in a future column. Send your suggestion in an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org You can also contact me there if you need shopping information for the Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Perhaps you have a solution to help this reader with her problem…
QUESTION: “Any new ideas on how to deal with a serious mole problem in our acre of heavily landscaped yard and gardens?
“We live in the country, and our house is on former farm land and pastures. I understand that moles are supposed to be very territorial creatures, and that only one or two moles are supposed to inhabit an acre of land, but we know that we have many more, because we can visibly see them tunneling along in different areas of our garden.
“My husband and I respect all forms of life and refuse to attempt to trap, poison, harpoon, electrocute, gas, or shovel-bludgeon these little creatures to death, but we are very tired of repairing all the damage that they do to our beds and the expensive plants that they manage to uproot. We've tried all kinds of folk lore remedies to discourage them from our yard (such as pepper based products), and we've tried the commercial castor-oil based sprays (makes your soil terribly sticky and sickly!), to no avail.
“We've also tried the ultrasonic in-ground devices, but I swear that the moles seem to be attracted by anything new that we introduce to the ground and they do MORE damage in the areas that we try to protect with such devices. We've also tried to plant things in plastic or wire mesh cages to prevent root damage as they tunnel around, but again, these little critters seem to go berserk in the "protected areas" and tunnel out all the soil surrounding such cages, thus defeating the purpose of this time-consuming effort.
“In frustration, I bought traps, but couldn't bring myself to use them. We've considered getting a cat, or perhaps a couple of ferrets, or maybe a boa constrictor to set free in the yard... but, alas, we have a thriving bird community that would be threatened by the cat... and recruiting other critters to kill the moles isn’t really consistent with our "violence-free" philosophy, is it?
“Have you any other ideas that might make our garden a little less appealing to these creatures?” – Deborah Abraham
ANSWER: I can empathize with you because we have similar problems in our gardens. I have used a product called Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent and it works for us.
It’s a simple product to use in that you simply attach the container to your garden hose and spray the ground. Apparently it works by coating earthworms and plant roots with something highly distasteful to moles but harmless to humans and animals. The moles tunnel elsewhere in search of tastier meals. Contrary to popular belief, moles almost never eat plants, subsisting on worms and other small invertebrates, but they can damage plants by undermining the roots and often create molehills on lawns.
However it is a constant problem. When you use the product the moles move on but within a month more are back and you need to repeat the process. We feel the same way about killing the little things and that is why we do this once a month rather that put out traps or poison. The manufacturers claim that the product is biodegradable and environmentally safe.
You mentioned folk remedies, and I’m guessing that there are hundreds out there! So come on, readers: Share your mole-be-gone solutions and help Deborah and other frustrated gardeners! Remember, your remedy must be effective in your experience (rather than hearsay) and should be humane and non-toxic. You might see your remedy included here in a future column. Send your suggestion in an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org You can also contact me there if you need shopping information for the Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, May 22, 2008
“Alien” slime mold invades mulch!
QUESTION: “A couple of mornings ago, I noticed a strange yellow clump of something had appeared, apparently overnight, in one of our flower beds. It was a bright, almost neon, yellow and very moist and slimy. It looked almost like some kind of alien being! “By the next day, it had formed a skin or crust on top and was turning brown. It now looked like a very large, stale egg foo yong! The following day, a second patch appeared, about six feet away in the same bed. Is this some kind of fungus? I am planning to remove the two clumps with a shovel and replace the mulch. But I'd also like to know if there's a way I can treat the soil to discourage it from happening again.” – Mike H
ANSWER: We’ve had these things show up too and they do look weird, don’t they? The good news is that they might be unsightly but they are not plant parasites.
Slime mold is indeed a type of fungus that produces large, single-celled bodies called plasmodia. Plasmodia are the feeding stages of the fungus and can be seen on mulch, lawns and dead wood, according to the folks at the Plant Disease Clinic at Cornell University. You can read their complete article at http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/slimemolds.pdf.
Although slime mold is not a plant parasite, small or vulnerable plants can suffer if the mold covers or shades them. Slime molds will eventually disappear if left alone, but they are unsightly and you might want to remove them.
The folks at Cornell say that on mulch, they can be raked or turned under and on turf they can be mowed. In my case, I wait until the slime turns to a dry, flaky crust and remove it with a shovel. It will probably return when the conditions are right, but it’s good to know that slime mold isn’t really harmful to plants.
QUESTION: “Thank you so much for your helpful tips each week! I have a question about pruning in general. We have two azalea bushes and a very large bush (8-10 feet in diameter, 12 feet high) in our back yard (I'm afraid I don't know what kind it is, but its leaves turn bright red in the fall and it has small leaves about the size of a large thumb nail).
“We need to prune these back, as they are starting to creep into walkways and phone lines. What is the best time to prune? I don't want to kill the azaleas and the bush, but I want to keep them under control. The azaleas are currently blooming, and the bush has produced leaves. I appreciate any advice you may have.” – Sonja R.
ANSWER: From your description of the large bush, it sounds as if it is a non-blooming variety so you should be able to trim it now or most any time. As for the azaleas, the best time to trim these is after the blooms are spent or finished.
I received the following note from a reader in response to a question here about spiders:
“My brother has a good solution for spiders but it must be used with care.
”Old fashioned mothballs will kill spiders and insects. When my brother is going to be gone for a few days he throws a few under his trailer. He never has problems with the black widows, etc., that frequent his area. They die because the mothballs close off their lungs. (They will also damage human lungs if we are inhaling those fumes for any length of time.) Besides putting them under porches or other areas spiders love, you can sprinkle them around the outside of your arbor, house, etc. Note that they should not be allowed to vaporize close to food.
”I prefer to use more natural methods but this is a solution that works with some very unwelcome ‘critters’.”
Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of plants for your gardens and landscape at prices that will fit your budget. From shade trees, to flowering shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, small fruiting plants and plants for butterfly gardens, you'll find just the plants for your planting projects.
ANSWER: We’ve had these things show up too and they do look weird, don’t they? The good news is that they might be unsightly but they are not plant parasites.
Slime mold is indeed a type of fungus that produces large, single-celled bodies called plasmodia. Plasmodia are the feeding stages of the fungus and can be seen on mulch, lawns and dead wood, according to the folks at the Plant Disease Clinic at Cornell University. You can read their complete article at http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/slimemolds.pdf.
Although slime mold is not a plant parasite, small or vulnerable plants can suffer if the mold covers or shades them. Slime molds will eventually disappear if left alone, but they are unsightly and you might want to remove them.
The folks at Cornell say that on mulch, they can be raked or turned under and on turf they can be mowed. In my case, I wait until the slime turns to a dry, flaky crust and remove it with a shovel. It will probably return when the conditions are right, but it’s good to know that slime mold isn’t really harmful to plants.
QUESTION: “Thank you so much for your helpful tips each week! I have a question about pruning in general. We have two azalea bushes and a very large bush (8-10 feet in diameter, 12 feet high) in our back yard (I'm afraid I don't know what kind it is, but its leaves turn bright red in the fall and it has small leaves about the size of a large thumb nail).
“We need to prune these back, as they are starting to creep into walkways and phone lines. What is the best time to prune? I don't want to kill the azaleas and the bush, but I want to keep them under control. The azaleas are currently blooming, and the bush has produced leaves. I appreciate any advice you may have.” – Sonja R.
ANSWER: From your description of the large bush, it sounds as if it is a non-blooming variety so you should be able to trim it now or most any time. As for the azaleas, the best time to trim these is after the blooms are spent or finished.
I received the following note from a reader in response to a question here about spiders:
“My brother has a good solution for spiders but it must be used with care.
”Old fashioned mothballs will kill spiders and insects. When my brother is going to be gone for a few days he throws a few under his trailer. He never has problems with the black widows, etc., that frequent his area. They die because the mothballs close off their lungs. (They will also damage human lungs if we are inhaling those fumes for any length of time.) Besides putting them under porches or other areas spiders love, you can sprinkle them around the outside of your arbor, house, etc. Note that they should not be allowed to vaporize close to food.
”I prefer to use more natural methods but this is a solution that works with some very unwelcome ‘critters’.”
Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of plants for your gardens and landscape at prices that will fit your budget. From shade trees, to flowering shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, small fruiting plants and plants for butterfly gardens, you'll find just the plants for your planting projects.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Colorful plants bring both excitement and tranquility to garden
This time of year has a special place in my heart. Every season has its own characteristics and I wouldn’t want to change any of them, even the so-called bleak midwinter. But right now, at the height of a new spring season, I feel that exhilaration and contentment common to gardeners and horticulturists around the world.
Even the smallest garden can be a tranquil reminder that Nature knows what she’s doing. When Cheryl and I are outside, tending our plants at this time of year, we can almost hear the garden say, “I’m here, growing, glowing with life and beauty. Nurture me, cherish me. Let us grow together, and I will reward you with sights, sounds, tastes and aromas that will both stimulate and calm your senses.”
Forgive me for waxing poetic, but this IS a special time of year filled with fresh colors and new life springing from the soil. It is hard NOT to be upbeat and optimistic when you are outside among the plants that grace your landscape.
If worries about gas prices and a troubled economy are beginning to depress you, resolve to stay home a little more this spring and summer. Let the car stay in the garage. It deserves a rest and so do you.
For less than the price of a tank of gas, you can plant a tree. You will be doing your part to help the environment because a mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.
Splashes of brilliant color are appearing in gardens about now, and this brought to mind a few of my favorites.
Arizona Sun (Gaillardia aristata)
The name certainly creates an appropriate visual image! Arizona sun sports large fiery orange red blossoms tipped by a ring of rich flame yellow. They create a dramatic burst of color in almost any garden or border.
Arizona sun is sometimes call “blanket flower” because at one time they blanketed the North American prairies with their blooms. I can just imagine the amazement felt by a family of pioneers cresting a ridge in their Conestoga wagon and being dazzled by millions of these blazing blossoms as far as the eye could see!
Arizona Sun is fairly compact in growth, reaching about 8 to 10 inches. Too much shade makes them liable to flop over so be sure to plant these perennials where they’ll get plenty of full sun. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but are drought tolerant. Do not add compost when planting as they do best in “poor” loose soil and do not thrive in clay soil.
Coneflower “Prairie Splendor” (Echinacea purpurea)
Thinking of Arizona Sun on the prairies reminded me of this beautiful Coneflower. While Coneflowers are regarded as a mainstay in today’s gardens, the Prairie Splendor has the added benefit of being an earlier bloomer than other varieties, sporting 4 to 6 inch rose-pink blooms from late June to first frost.
Coneflower “White Swan”
If you prefer a more traditional Coneflower, this variety of Echinacea purpurea is a good choice I enjoy the sweet, honey-like fragrance and so do the masses of butterflies who are attracted to the White Swans in our garden. White Swan’s large daisy-like flowers appear from mid-summer through fall, continuing after many of the other perennials have finished their blooming cycle.
Columbine Aquilegia “Swan Pink and Yellow”
From white swans to pink and yellow swans! Horticulturists consider this a breakthrough in color combinations for columbines. Soft coral-pink outer petals with creamy tips blend harmoniously with pastel yellow inner petals. The blooms of 'Swan Pink and Yellow' face outward and show off perfectly.
From the eye-popping blaze of Arizona Sun to the soothing palette of Swan Pink and Yellow Columbine… colors that bring excitement and tranquility to your landscape. Enjoy them all as you grow with your garden, and drop me an e-mail if you want more information about the plants I’ve mentioned. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Even the smallest garden can be a tranquil reminder that Nature knows what she’s doing. When Cheryl and I are outside, tending our plants at this time of year, we can almost hear the garden say, “I’m here, growing, glowing with life and beauty. Nurture me, cherish me. Let us grow together, and I will reward you with sights, sounds, tastes and aromas that will both stimulate and calm your senses.”
Forgive me for waxing poetic, but this IS a special time of year filled with fresh colors and new life springing from the soil. It is hard NOT to be upbeat and optimistic when you are outside among the plants that grace your landscape.
If worries about gas prices and a troubled economy are beginning to depress you, resolve to stay home a little more this spring and summer. Let the car stay in the garage. It deserves a rest and so do you.
For less than the price of a tank of gas, you can plant a tree. You will be doing your part to help the environment because a mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.
Splashes of brilliant color are appearing in gardens about now, and this brought to mind a few of my favorites.
Arizona Sun (Gaillardia aristata)
The name certainly creates an appropriate visual image! Arizona sun sports large fiery orange red blossoms tipped by a ring of rich flame yellow. They create a dramatic burst of color in almost any garden or border.
Arizona sun is sometimes call “blanket flower” because at one time they blanketed the North American prairies with their blooms. I can just imagine the amazement felt by a family of pioneers cresting a ridge in their Conestoga wagon and being dazzled by millions of these blazing blossoms as far as the eye could see!
Arizona Sun is fairly compact in growth, reaching about 8 to 10 inches. Too much shade makes them liable to flop over so be sure to plant these perennials where they’ll get plenty of full sun. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but are drought tolerant. Do not add compost when planting as they do best in “poor” loose soil and do not thrive in clay soil.
Coneflower “Prairie Splendor” (Echinacea purpurea)
Thinking of Arizona Sun on the prairies reminded me of this beautiful Coneflower. While Coneflowers are regarded as a mainstay in today’s gardens, the Prairie Splendor has the added benefit of being an earlier bloomer than other varieties, sporting 4 to 6 inch rose-pink blooms from late June to first frost.
Coneflower “White Swan”
If you prefer a more traditional Coneflower, this variety of Echinacea purpurea is a good choice I enjoy the sweet, honey-like fragrance and so do the masses of butterflies who are attracted to the White Swans in our garden. White Swan’s large daisy-like flowers appear from mid-summer through fall, continuing after many of the other perennials have finished their blooming cycle.
Columbine Aquilegia “Swan Pink and Yellow”
From white swans to pink and yellow swans! Horticulturists consider this a breakthrough in color combinations for columbines. Soft coral-pink outer petals with creamy tips blend harmoniously with pastel yellow inner petals. The blooms of 'Swan Pink and Yellow' face outward and show off perfectly.
From the eye-popping blaze of Arizona Sun to the soothing palette of Swan Pink and Yellow Columbine… colors that bring excitement and tranquility to your landscape. Enjoy them all as you grow with your garden, and drop me an e-mail if you want more information about the plants I’ve mentioned. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Shady gardens can be colorful and exciting
QUESTION: “I am new to gardening and seem to have a tough time getting plants to grow. Most of the area is full shade to partial sun and it does not have the best of drainage either. I do have a big patio that I pot flowers on as well. If you have any suggestions on some flowers that even a beginner can grow, I would greatly appreciate it.
“Also, I see that you have mentioned ways of deterring our animal friends. Would you have any suggestions on how we might get rid of a squirrel problem? I love to watch the little critters but they have made a home in the attic of our house. Nothing we seem to do deter them. They are very smart and they do not have a problem letting you know when you do something they do not like!” – Mary Wheeler
ANSWER: “Mary, I have e-mailed you a link to the extension office site in Missouri with a great article on controlling your little furry critters. For other readers, you can read the article here: http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09455.htm and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Yes, you are correct in that there is little or nothing that will control them other than just protecting what you have. Don’t forget things such as screening any vents or other openings in your gable or attic areas. The Missouri extension article says that if a squirrel is found in an attic or another part of the house, do not try to chase it out. Open a window or door and allow the squirrel to find its own way out. Alternatively, bait a live trap or cage trap with peanut butter or nutmeats. Once the squirrel is trapped, release it outdoors.
Many people believe that nothing will grow in shaded or poorly drained areas but that isn’t the case. In planting in a wet area, you can always plant in containers rather than directly in the ground. Container gardening allows for much better control for the water situation.
Here is my own listing of plants that will grow in such an area: Astilbes, Hostas, Ferns, Dicentra, Irises, Daylilies, Salvia, Heucheras, Hellebores.
As you are someone who is fairly new to gardening, I suggest you surf the ‘Net for as much information as possible. One excellent article, titled “Flowers for Shade or Part Shade” can be found at www.suite101.com The direct link to the article, subtitled “Easy to Grow Shade Loving Annual and Perennial Flowers,” is http://flowergardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/flowers_for_shade_or_part_shade Cheryl fielded this next question from a reader with a poison ivy problem.
QUESTION: “My son planted Myrtle on a steep bank beside his house. Now poison ivy has taken over. We have tried for years to pull it up and spray it, but it still hangs on and is getting worse. How can we kill it for good?” – Sally
ANSWER: We have been using a vine and brush control product called Vine X. It comes in a container that you apply directly on the ivy itself. The ivy absorbs the product and dies off. It worked beautifully for us when last year, the Easter weekend freeze wiped out all of our hybrid wisteria that covered our garden arbor.
The root system, which was not the same as the top grafted part, began putting out sprouts everywhere. Steve started using the Vine X everywhere he found sprouts, as well as the trunk where we had to cut down to, over summer. By late summer, the root system had died and no more sprouts.
Vine X is much safer and easier to apply than roundup or other herbicides. You may want to consider it. Otherwise, the only way to get rid of poison ivy is to regularly apply herbicides, which can also kill other plants in the vicinity.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
“Also, I see that you have mentioned ways of deterring our animal friends. Would you have any suggestions on how we might get rid of a squirrel problem? I love to watch the little critters but they have made a home in the attic of our house. Nothing we seem to do deter them. They are very smart and they do not have a problem letting you know when you do something they do not like!” – Mary Wheeler
ANSWER: “Mary, I have e-mailed you a link to the extension office site in Missouri with a great article on controlling your little furry critters. For other readers, you can read the article here: http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09455.htm and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Yes, you are correct in that there is little or nothing that will control them other than just protecting what you have. Don’t forget things such as screening any vents or other openings in your gable or attic areas. The Missouri extension article says that if a squirrel is found in an attic or another part of the house, do not try to chase it out. Open a window or door and allow the squirrel to find its own way out. Alternatively, bait a live trap or cage trap with peanut butter or nutmeats. Once the squirrel is trapped, release it outdoors.
Many people believe that nothing will grow in shaded or poorly drained areas but that isn’t the case. In planting in a wet area, you can always plant in containers rather than directly in the ground. Container gardening allows for much better control for the water situation.
Here is my own listing of plants that will grow in such an area: Astilbes, Hostas, Ferns, Dicentra, Irises, Daylilies, Salvia, Heucheras, Hellebores.
As you are someone who is fairly new to gardening, I suggest you surf the ‘Net for as much information as possible. One excellent article, titled “Flowers for Shade or Part Shade” can be found at www.suite101.com The direct link to the article, subtitled “Easy to Grow Shade Loving Annual and Perennial Flowers,” is http://flowergardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/flowers_for_shade_or_part_shade Cheryl fielded this next question from a reader with a poison ivy problem.
QUESTION: “My son planted Myrtle on a steep bank beside his house. Now poison ivy has taken over. We have tried for years to pull it up and spray it, but it still hangs on and is getting worse. How can we kill it for good?” – Sally
ANSWER: We have been using a vine and brush control product called Vine X. It comes in a container that you apply directly on the ivy itself. The ivy absorbs the product and dies off. It worked beautifully for us when last year, the Easter weekend freeze wiped out all of our hybrid wisteria that covered our garden arbor.
The root system, which was not the same as the top grafted part, began putting out sprouts everywhere. Steve started using the Vine X everywhere he found sprouts, as well as the trunk where we had to cut down to, over summer. By late summer, the root system had died and no more sprouts.
Vine X is much safer and easier to apply than roundup or other herbicides. You may want to consider it. Otherwise, the only way to get rid of poison ivy is to regularly apply herbicides, which can also kill other plants in the vicinity.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Deer resistant plants can keep critters at bay
However much you like wildlife, it can be disheartening to see deer and other critters munching away on plants to which you have devoted so much of your time and money. If you see this as a potential problem, the most sensible solution is to start out with plants that deer are less likely to find desirable.
QUESTION: “We have just moved to a new home and the back yard is heavily treed with pines and a few hardwoods. Therefore it is partial sun to shade. We're interested in purchasing some shrubs and ferns which are resistant to deer. What are your suggestions?” – Dave Whiting
ANSWER: Being “deer resistant” is a relative phrase. If deer are not getting food from their normal sources, they will eat anything and everything. With that noted, some plants that will grow at least in partly shaded areas and that are not on the top of the list for deer to eat are:
Sage, Thyme, Chives, Hellebore, Ferns, Yarrow, Bamboo, Blue fescue, Boxwood, Dogwood, Euonymus, Forsythia, Holly, Japanese red maple, Junipers, Sambucus, Viburnum.
QUESTION: “We’ve been thinking of planting some Barberry and we looked at a variety called Crimson Pygmy. However, we were told there is another variety that has even redder foliage. Can you tell me what it’s called?” – James T.
ANSWER: I believe you’re thinking of a Barberry named Berberis thunbergii, Royal Burgundy. Royal Burgundy has a number of benefits over Crimson Pygmy. For one thing, I prefer the reddish-purple foliage of the Royal Burgundy. It holds its color throughout the summer before turning to a darker, almost blackish-red in the fall before defoliating for winter.
Royal Burgundy is also smaller with a more compact shape compared to Crimson Pygmy with a mature height of around 18 inches and a spread of 30 inches or so. Although it is tolerant of shade, you’ll see the best color when it is planted in full sun. It is quite drought-tolerant and can be used in xeriscaping.
Planting Royal Burgundy en masse adjacent to gold or blue evergreens allows the contrast to make the color really “pop.” Remember that it is thorny so handle with care.
QUESTION: “Having read your article on raised boxes, I have a question. In making the raised boxes can one use treated lumber? Sounds hideous, I know, but I’ve seen it done and it raises the question in my mind of leaching chemicals from the wood to the soil and then to the roots to the edibles. Really bad idea or am I worried unnecessarily?” – Erik Jansen
ANSWER: No, actually you are correct to question their use. But, you know, I have read arguments from both sides. Gardeners and the nursery industry alike have used pressure treated wood for raised beds for decades and have not experienced any problems.
However, there are arguments that the chemicals used on this lumber leaches into the soil. I have e-mailed a link to you from Fine Gardening Magazine that will offer you much more information. (If other readers want to see this article, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you the link. Alternatively, go to http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/ and type “pressure treated lumber” into the search window.)
You can isolate pressure-treated wood by lining the inside of a bed with heavy plastic to prevent leaching of chemicals from the wood into the soil. Some landscape designers are now using recycled plastic lumber, such as the brand name Trex, when building raised beds.
Redwood, cypress, cedar and straw bales can be used as organic materials to create beds as well as many inorganic products such as old tractor tires, large garbage bags (heavy mil), and masonry, and now kits are available for raised beds in many garden centers and hardware stores.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “We have just moved to a new home and the back yard is heavily treed with pines and a few hardwoods. Therefore it is partial sun to shade. We're interested in purchasing some shrubs and ferns which are resistant to deer. What are your suggestions?” – Dave Whiting
ANSWER: Being “deer resistant” is a relative phrase. If deer are not getting food from their normal sources, they will eat anything and everything. With that noted, some plants that will grow at least in partly shaded areas and that are not on the top of the list for deer to eat are:
Sage, Thyme, Chives, Hellebore, Ferns, Yarrow, Bamboo, Blue fescue, Boxwood, Dogwood, Euonymus, Forsythia, Holly, Japanese red maple, Junipers, Sambucus, Viburnum.
QUESTION: “We’ve been thinking of planting some Barberry and we looked at a variety called Crimson Pygmy. However, we were told there is another variety that has even redder foliage. Can you tell me what it’s called?” – James T.
ANSWER: I believe you’re thinking of a Barberry named Berberis thunbergii, Royal Burgundy. Royal Burgundy has a number of benefits over Crimson Pygmy. For one thing, I prefer the reddish-purple foliage of the Royal Burgundy. It holds its color throughout the summer before turning to a darker, almost blackish-red in the fall before defoliating for winter.
Royal Burgundy is also smaller with a more compact shape compared to Crimson Pygmy with a mature height of around 18 inches and a spread of 30 inches or so. Although it is tolerant of shade, you’ll see the best color when it is planted in full sun. It is quite drought-tolerant and can be used in xeriscaping.
Planting Royal Burgundy en masse adjacent to gold or blue evergreens allows the contrast to make the color really “pop.” Remember that it is thorny so handle with care.
QUESTION: “Having read your article on raised boxes, I have a question. In making the raised boxes can one use treated lumber? Sounds hideous, I know, but I’ve seen it done and it raises the question in my mind of leaching chemicals from the wood to the soil and then to the roots to the edibles. Really bad idea or am I worried unnecessarily?” – Erik Jansen
ANSWER: No, actually you are correct to question their use. But, you know, I have read arguments from both sides. Gardeners and the nursery industry alike have used pressure treated wood for raised beds for decades and have not experienced any problems.
However, there are arguments that the chemicals used on this lumber leaches into the soil. I have e-mailed a link to you from Fine Gardening Magazine that will offer you much more information. (If other readers want to see this article, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you the link. Alternatively, go to http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/ and type “pressure treated lumber” into the search window.)
You can isolate pressure-treated wood by lining the inside of a bed with heavy plastic to prevent leaching of chemicals from the wood into the soil. Some landscape designers are now using recycled plastic lumber, such as the brand name Trex, when building raised beds.
Redwood, cypress, cedar and straw bales can be used as organic materials to create beds as well as many inorganic products such as old tractor tires, large garbage bags (heavy mil), and masonry, and now kits are available for raised beds in many garden centers and hardware stores.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, April 09, 2008
Spreading plants have their place in landscape
“Yes, those plants look nice enough,” I sometimes hear. “But don’t they have a reputation for spreading?”
Yes, there are a number of attractive plants that have a reputation for spreading out across, and sometimes beyond, the area in which they are planted. This can be a problem and it is advisable to investigate the “spreading habit” of any plant before you buy, if that is a potential problem in the designated planting location.
But a plant’s “spreadability” is not necessarily a bad thing. Spreading plants can be just what you are looking for in the right circumstances. They can choke out weeds, reduce soil erosion and beautify a sloping or rocky area that is difficult to mow.
Here are some of my favorite plants that you should take a look at if you have an area that could benefit from some low-growers that tend to spread.
Purple Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)
In my opinion, this is one of the most versatile groundcovers you can find. Throughout the growing season, you’ll see a virtual carpet of bright green foliage that continues right into winter. In June/July, it produces a mass of tiny purplish-blue flowers with white markings. A tough, long-lasting plant, Mazus reptans is easy to grow. Each plant reaches a height of no more than two inches, spreading out to six inches or so, making it ideal for rock gardens and in between stepping stones. It does well in full sun to light shade and prefers moist but well-drained soil.
Verbena “Superbena” Burgundy
The Superbenas are a variety of Verbenas that have been bred to withstand heat and mildew, and that can be an important benefit in some areas. It produces large burgundy blooms on dark green leaves and will regenerate vigorous growth when you cut it back. With a maximum height of twelve inches, it makes a colorful groundcover that is popular with Swallowtail butterflies, and is a good choice for containers, baskets and window boxes.
Creeping Red Thyme (Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus)
You might be aware of the fragrance before you even see this fast, low-growing evergreen that is a good choice as a groundcover or between pavers for an attractive, rustic look. Easy to grow in full or partial sun and shade.
Phlox, Creeping Emerald Blue (Phlox subulata)
A rocky embankment or outcropping where weeding, tending or mowing is hazardous or impossible? Creeping Emerald Blue Phlox could be an ideal solution. I’ve also admired it in the nooks and crannies of dry stone retaining walls and around rock waterfalls. Locations of that nature are ideal for Phlox as it enjoys the good drainage provided by elevated planting. For contrast, try mixing it with Creeping Candy Stripe Phlox with its tiny pink and white flowers.
Liriope Big Blue
For some thing a bit taller, try this tufted evergreen groundcover with its arching, grass-like foliage. In the summer, you’ll see an abundance of blue flower spikes that are followed by clusters of black berries in the fall. In addition to hard-to-get-at areas, Liriope is a good choice for borders and edging.
Trailing Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
Continuing the “blue” theme, don’t forget Trailing Periwinkle, a delightful evergreen with dense, shiny, oval-shaped foliage that forms an almost flat, springy carpet adding soft, rolling contours to landscaping. In early spring, the foliage is covered with blue (yes, periwinkle blue) flowers. Vinca minor likes fairly good soil and does well in full sun, partial sun or shade.
Pachysandra terminalis
Introduced from Japan circa 1882, pachysandra is one of the most planted groundcovers in America. Most everyone is familiar with this rapidly spreading plant that thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens.
A spreading plant isn’t necessarily a negative, as long as you plant it in a location where its natural tendency is a benefit rather than a nuisance.
Yes, there are a number of attractive plants that have a reputation for spreading out across, and sometimes beyond, the area in which they are planted. This can be a problem and it is advisable to investigate the “spreading habit” of any plant before you buy, if that is a potential problem in the designated planting location.
But a plant’s “spreadability” is not necessarily a bad thing. Spreading plants can be just what you are looking for in the right circumstances. They can choke out weeds, reduce soil erosion and beautify a sloping or rocky area that is difficult to mow.
Here are some of my favorite plants that you should take a look at if you have an area that could benefit from some low-growers that tend to spread.
Purple Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)
In my opinion, this is one of the most versatile groundcovers you can find. Throughout the growing season, you’ll see a virtual carpet of bright green foliage that continues right into winter. In June/July, it produces a mass of tiny purplish-blue flowers with white markings. A tough, long-lasting plant, Mazus reptans is easy to grow. Each plant reaches a height of no more than two inches, spreading out to six inches or so, making it ideal for rock gardens and in between stepping stones. It does well in full sun to light shade and prefers moist but well-drained soil.
Verbena “Superbena” Burgundy
The Superbenas are a variety of Verbenas that have been bred to withstand heat and mildew, and that can be an important benefit in some areas. It produces large burgundy blooms on dark green leaves and will regenerate vigorous growth when you cut it back. With a maximum height of twelve inches, it makes a colorful groundcover that is popular with Swallowtail butterflies, and is a good choice for containers, baskets and window boxes.
Creeping Red Thyme (Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus)
You might be aware of the fragrance before you even see this fast, low-growing evergreen that is a good choice as a groundcover or between pavers for an attractive, rustic look. Easy to grow in full or partial sun and shade.
Phlox, Creeping Emerald Blue (Phlox subulata)
A rocky embankment or outcropping where weeding, tending or mowing is hazardous or impossible? Creeping Emerald Blue Phlox could be an ideal solution. I’ve also admired it in the nooks and crannies of dry stone retaining walls and around rock waterfalls. Locations of that nature are ideal for Phlox as it enjoys the good drainage provided by elevated planting. For contrast, try mixing it with Creeping Candy Stripe Phlox with its tiny pink and white flowers.
Liriope Big Blue
For some thing a bit taller, try this tufted evergreen groundcover with its arching, grass-like foliage. In the summer, you’ll see an abundance of blue flower spikes that are followed by clusters of black berries in the fall. In addition to hard-to-get-at areas, Liriope is a good choice for borders and edging.
Trailing Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
Continuing the “blue” theme, don’t forget Trailing Periwinkle, a delightful evergreen with dense, shiny, oval-shaped foliage that forms an almost flat, springy carpet adding soft, rolling contours to landscaping. In early spring, the foliage is covered with blue (yes, periwinkle blue) flowers. Vinca minor likes fairly good soil and does well in full sun, partial sun or shade.
Pachysandra terminalis
Introduced from Japan circa 1882, pachysandra is one of the most planted groundcovers in America. Most everyone is familiar with this rapidly spreading plant that thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens.
A spreading plant isn’t necessarily a negative, as long as you plant it in a location where its natural tendency is a benefit rather than a nuisance.
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Storm-damaged trees need special TLC
QUESTION: “Last week, during a storm, a 40-ft. limb was ripped down from an 80-ft tree, leaving a hole about 5-ft. diameter. Should I seal this somehow?” RaDonna
ANSWER: It sounds as though your tree has experienced some pretty significant damage and an older tree will have a difficult time of repairing itself. At this time you may want to have an expert in your area look at the tree to see if there is a chance it will be healthy enough to do this. Check with your local agricultural extension agent, your local conservation district office (also known as NRCS) or an arborist.
Quite often, younger trees can get by on a broken limb and, without any sealing, make it through and remain healthy. Older trees are different in that respect and a 5 foot hole is quite large.
Do try to contact one of the people that I suggested and I hope your tree makes a good recovery.
RaDonna’s question reminded me that a lot of people all over the country have experienced weather-related damage to trees and shrubs recently. This prompted me to do some online research to find information that readers with storm-damaged trees would find useful.
First up: an article, by Consumer Horticulturist Erv Evans, at a Web site hosted by North Carolina State University.
“Treatment of storm-damaged trees requires wise decisions and prompt action if the maximum benefit from repair work is to be achieved,” says Evans. “Repairs come in two stages: first aid for immediate attention; and follow-up work to be distributed over a period of months to several years. Care for damaged large trees is best left to professionals.”
All the experts agree that the first thing to do is decide if the tree is actually worth saving. Is there a sentimental or historical value to the tree? Does it serve a particular function that makes extraordinary action worthwhile?
Evans makes the point that if more than 30 to 50 percent of the main branches or trunk are severely split, broken, or mutilated, the benefit of extensive repairs is questionable.
If a damaged tree does need to be removed, it’s probably a job for experts, particularly if it’s a large, older tree or has precariously hanging, damaged limbs. Removing a tree that’s close to overhead power lines or with roots possibly near underground utilities is always a job for the professionals!
To read the entire article, go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/tree_damage.html or go to my Web site, www.landsteward.org and click on a direct link from this column.
“Repairing Storm Damaged Trees,” is a very practical “how to” article by Melvin R. Koelling and Russell P. Kidd of the Michigan State University Forestry Department.
Before you start cutting, they say, assess the damage to decide which branches should be removed and where to cut. There are several good diagrams with the article that show you where – and where NOT – to cut.
Koelling and Kidd state that branches smaller than 3-inch diameter can best be removed using a pruning shears or a pole-pruner. A sharp, properly aligned shears or pruner will make a clean cut, not crush or tear bark tissue and reduce clean-up time.
Use a sharp saw to remove larger branches. If a power saw is used, a safety rope and harness are essential, they say. Be particularly careful when footing is unsure. At all times, use common sense and follow all recommended safety precautions when working with equipment in and around trees.
Again, my personal advice is to leave anything more than minor trimming to the experts to avoid the possibility of serious injury.
You can find the entire article at http://www.kbs.msu.edu/extension/storm/ which is a “must read” if you are unsure what to do about a tree that has taken a hit from a recent storm.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: It sounds as though your tree has experienced some pretty significant damage and an older tree will have a difficult time of repairing itself. At this time you may want to have an expert in your area look at the tree to see if there is a chance it will be healthy enough to do this. Check with your local agricultural extension agent, your local conservation district office (also known as NRCS) or an arborist.
Quite often, younger trees can get by on a broken limb and, without any sealing, make it through and remain healthy. Older trees are different in that respect and a 5 foot hole is quite large.
Do try to contact one of the people that I suggested and I hope your tree makes a good recovery.
RaDonna’s question reminded me that a lot of people all over the country have experienced weather-related damage to trees and shrubs recently. This prompted me to do some online research to find information that readers with storm-damaged trees would find useful.
First up: an article, by Consumer Horticulturist Erv Evans, at a Web site hosted by North Carolina State University.
“Treatment of storm-damaged trees requires wise decisions and prompt action if the maximum benefit from repair work is to be achieved,” says Evans. “Repairs come in two stages: first aid for immediate attention; and follow-up work to be distributed over a period of months to several years. Care for damaged large trees is best left to professionals.”
All the experts agree that the first thing to do is decide if the tree is actually worth saving. Is there a sentimental or historical value to the tree? Does it serve a particular function that makes extraordinary action worthwhile?
Evans makes the point that if more than 30 to 50 percent of the main branches or trunk are severely split, broken, or mutilated, the benefit of extensive repairs is questionable.
If a damaged tree does need to be removed, it’s probably a job for experts, particularly if it’s a large, older tree or has precariously hanging, damaged limbs. Removing a tree that’s close to overhead power lines or with roots possibly near underground utilities is always a job for the professionals!
To read the entire article, go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/tree_damage.html or go to my Web site, www.landsteward.org and click on a direct link from this column.
“Repairing Storm Damaged Trees,” is a very practical “how to” article by Melvin R. Koelling and Russell P. Kidd of the Michigan State University Forestry Department.
Before you start cutting, they say, assess the damage to decide which branches should be removed and where to cut. There are several good diagrams with the article that show you where – and where NOT – to cut.
Koelling and Kidd state that branches smaller than 3-inch diameter can best be removed using a pruning shears or a pole-pruner. A sharp, properly aligned shears or pruner will make a clean cut, not crush or tear bark tissue and reduce clean-up time.
Use a sharp saw to remove larger branches. If a power saw is used, a safety rope and harness are essential, they say. Be particularly careful when footing is unsure. At all times, use common sense and follow all recommended safety precautions when working with equipment in and around trees.
Again, my personal advice is to leave anything more than minor trimming to the experts to avoid the possibility of serious injury.
You can find the entire article at http://www.kbs.msu.edu/extension/storm/ which is a “must read” if you are unsure what to do about a tree that has taken a hit from a recent storm.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Pruning plants keeps them healthy and shapely
Pruning. You stand in front of the shrub, shaking hands clutching the shears. Where to start? What if I clip off too much? Maybe I’ll just leave it…
Actually, pruning doesn’t have to be scary. Unless you are severely brutal, like the arboreal version of a slasher movie villain, you are unlikely to do irreparable damage.
QUESTION: “I planted about 8 Knockout roses last spring. They did nicely through the summer and fall. What do I need to do to get them ready for another good year?” – Bob B.
ANSWER: This is a good time of year to prune those roses. Clip out all dead, broken and damaged branches, and those that are crossing, and touching. Once that is accomplished, you can decide if you want to take any off the top as this is when you can shape your rose shrubs.
If you want to apply any fertilizer to them, this would also be the time. I should say that, better than fertilizer, you can put a fresh supply of aged compost around the base of each one (leaving a well area at the base of the plant so that the trunk doesn't touch the compost).
They don't require deadheading, but I always clip the tops of the plants back around the latter part of July. They flush out beautifully for the last part of summer and early fall. Enjoy those beautiful Knockout roses!
QUESTION: “We planted Sunburst Honeylocust trees 2 and 3 years ago. They have had very rapid growth this season. The problem is this. The new growth is growing so fast that it is getting a weeping form with branches weeping too low to the ground. If I remove the entire branch it will really become top heavy. Even the top branches of the leader steam are weeping – a lot.
“From what I have read, I don't want to tip the tree branches, but how do I trim the top heavy weeping from a young Honeylocust without completely removing the branch? There aren't that many branches on the tree so I don't really want to remove any. They are all weeping but the lowest and the highest are the most bothersome. It appears that the new young growth is so soft it cannot support its own length. What do I do? I'm afraid they won't make it through the winter without substantial breakage if I leave them the way they are.” -- Alysia Iosty
ANSWER: This one should be fairly simple. When removing the lower branches just remember the fewer branches for growth, the more energy will go into what is left. If the lower branches need to be removed because of the need to mow under the tree or just for esthetics I would simply go ahead and remove them.
The top leader is the only one to be concerned with, but again, not that much! You can take a ladder if necessary, go to the top part of the tree and snip back right above the bud where you will top the tree. The following season, it will create another top leader but by doing this you will cause it to do more branching down below. This is more desirable in the overall appearance and strength of the tree. Side branches can be trimmed the same way back to where it is not weeping. Trimming will make it a more desirable tree.
QUESTION: “Our hostas have holes in their leaves! They appear to be eaten by a bug. Any recommendations on what we should do?” -- Pat Smith
ANSWER: From what you tell me, an educated guess would be that the culprits are the common garden variety of slugs. We also have them. You can find molluscicides at many garden centers, but a popular home remedy is a bowl of beer. Slugs are attracted to the beer, get in the bowl and drown. Use a container that slugs would find easy to climb into.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Actually, pruning doesn’t have to be scary. Unless you are severely brutal, like the arboreal version of a slasher movie villain, you are unlikely to do irreparable damage.
QUESTION: “I planted about 8 Knockout roses last spring. They did nicely through the summer and fall. What do I need to do to get them ready for another good year?” – Bob B.
ANSWER: This is a good time of year to prune those roses. Clip out all dead, broken and damaged branches, and those that are crossing, and touching. Once that is accomplished, you can decide if you want to take any off the top as this is when you can shape your rose shrubs.
If you want to apply any fertilizer to them, this would also be the time. I should say that, better than fertilizer, you can put a fresh supply of aged compost around the base of each one (leaving a well area at the base of the plant so that the trunk doesn't touch the compost).
They don't require deadheading, but I always clip the tops of the plants back around the latter part of July. They flush out beautifully for the last part of summer and early fall. Enjoy those beautiful Knockout roses!
QUESTION: “We planted Sunburst Honeylocust trees 2 and 3 years ago. They have had very rapid growth this season. The problem is this. The new growth is growing so fast that it is getting a weeping form with branches weeping too low to the ground. If I remove the entire branch it will really become top heavy. Even the top branches of the leader steam are weeping – a lot.
“From what I have read, I don't want to tip the tree branches, but how do I trim the top heavy weeping from a young Honeylocust without completely removing the branch? There aren't that many branches on the tree so I don't really want to remove any. They are all weeping but the lowest and the highest are the most bothersome. It appears that the new young growth is so soft it cannot support its own length. What do I do? I'm afraid they won't make it through the winter without substantial breakage if I leave them the way they are.” -- Alysia Iosty
ANSWER: This one should be fairly simple. When removing the lower branches just remember the fewer branches for growth, the more energy will go into what is left. If the lower branches need to be removed because of the need to mow under the tree or just for esthetics I would simply go ahead and remove them.
The top leader is the only one to be concerned with, but again, not that much! You can take a ladder if necessary, go to the top part of the tree and snip back right above the bud where you will top the tree. The following season, it will create another top leader but by doing this you will cause it to do more branching down below. This is more desirable in the overall appearance and strength of the tree. Side branches can be trimmed the same way back to where it is not weeping. Trimming will make it a more desirable tree.
QUESTION: “Our hostas have holes in their leaves! They appear to be eaten by a bug. Any recommendations on what we should do?” -- Pat Smith
ANSWER: From what you tell me, an educated guess would be that the culprits are the common garden variety of slugs. We also have them. You can find molluscicides at many garden centers, but a popular home remedy is a bowl of beer. Slugs are attracted to the beer, get in the bowl and drown. Use a container that slugs would find easy to climb into.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Raised beds can help gardeners’ aching backs
If your knees creak and your back aches when you are gardening, perhaps you should build some raised beds to make your life easier.
There are several advantages to raised beds. The first and most obvious benefit is to your health and wellbeing Regardless of your age, kneeling or bending over your plants even for a few minutes can cause aches and pains. After a while, you can be tempted to leave plants untended and bed beds unweeded. A raised bed avoids that temptation!
Additionally, standing or walking on your garden can compact the soil which can adversely affect drainage and the flow of oxygen to the plants’ roots. Hopefully, you wouldn’t be standing on a raised bed!
When you have a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest while sitting or standing, which eliminates pressure on the soil and on your bones and muscles. In many cases you can’t plant earlier in the spring and harvest later in the fall because raised beds warm up earlier in the spring and stay warm later in the fall. And a raised bed is the ideal location for potentially invasive plants such as horseradish or mint.
If someone in your family is elderly or physically challenged, a raised bed can allow them to enjoy gardening again, perhaps for the first time in many years. A recent Plant Man column on the subject of gardening for the physically challenged brought a number of responses from readers, showing me just how important a topic this is. Here’s an e-mail I received from Shelby Snider in Virginia.
“As a Virginia Master Gardener, I do Horticultural Therapy at an Assisted Living home near me. With the help of a few good companies donating material and the help of my husband with the labor, we put in a therapy garden for the residents a couple of years ago.
“I am sending some pictures of the residents working there. Sometimes the residents just go out and sit in the chairs and enjoy the gardens. Before this there was nothing there but grass.
“We have two brick companies near us and they donated brick pavers for all the walking area. A block company donated concrete blocks for the raised beds which are four feet wide by 10 ft long. After we put the blocks up for the beds I sprayed the inside of the beds with a spray adhesive and lined the beds with a heavy grade of black plastic. I did this so the concrete blocks would not change the pH of my soil. I folded the top of the plastic back under the concrete caps that were put on top of the wall. I then painted the blocks and did a faux finish on the outside.
“I like the blocks because if the residents want to sit while they work or just enjoy the garden, they have a place to sit. This same concept could be done on a smaller scale. Yes, you can use concrete blocks if you do what I did.”
Although building a raised bed can be quite a labor-intensive project, it is not exceptionally difficult nor does it require advanced carpentry skills. You can find a lot of information on the Internet when you initiate a search for “raised plant beds.”
You can use concrete blocks, as Shelby did, or opt for wood instead. For a low bed, railroad ties or landscape timbers are fine. For taller beds, 2 x 12 lumber is a better choice.
Whether it’s for practical reasons or purely aesthetic, a raised bed can be a great addition to your garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
There are several advantages to raised beds. The first and most obvious benefit is to your health and wellbeing Regardless of your age, kneeling or bending over your plants even for a few minutes can cause aches and pains. After a while, you can be tempted to leave plants untended and bed beds unweeded. A raised bed avoids that temptation!
Additionally, standing or walking on your garden can compact the soil which can adversely affect drainage and the flow of oxygen to the plants’ roots. Hopefully, you wouldn’t be standing on a raised bed!
When you have a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest while sitting or standing, which eliminates pressure on the soil and on your bones and muscles. In many cases you can’t plant earlier in the spring and harvest later in the fall because raised beds warm up earlier in the spring and stay warm later in the fall. And a raised bed is the ideal location for potentially invasive plants such as horseradish or mint.
If someone in your family is elderly or physically challenged, a raised bed can allow them to enjoy gardening again, perhaps for the first time in many years. A recent Plant Man column on the subject of gardening for the physically challenged brought a number of responses from readers, showing me just how important a topic this is. Here’s an e-mail I received from Shelby Snider in Virginia.
“As a Virginia Master Gardener, I do Horticultural Therapy at an Assisted Living home near me. With the help of a few good companies donating material and the help of my husband with the labor, we put in a therapy garden for the residents a couple of years ago.
“I am sending some pictures of the residents working there. Sometimes the residents just go out and sit in the chairs and enjoy the gardens. Before this there was nothing there but grass.
“We have two brick companies near us and they donated brick pavers for all the walking area. A block company donated concrete blocks for the raised beds which are four feet wide by 10 ft long. After we put the blocks up for the beds I sprayed the inside of the beds with a spray adhesive and lined the beds with a heavy grade of black plastic. I did this so the concrete blocks would not change the pH of my soil. I folded the top of the plastic back under the concrete caps that were put on top of the wall. I then painted the blocks and did a faux finish on the outside.
“I like the blocks because if the residents want to sit while they work or just enjoy the garden, they have a place to sit. This same concept could be done on a smaller scale. Yes, you can use concrete blocks if you do what I did.”
Although building a raised bed can be quite a labor-intensive project, it is not exceptionally difficult nor does it require advanced carpentry skills. You can find a lot of information on the Internet when you initiate a search for “raised plant beds.”
You can use concrete blocks, as Shelby did, or opt for wood instead. For a low bed, railroad ties or landscape timbers are fine. For taller beds, 2 x 12 lumber is a better choice.
Whether it’s for practical reasons or purely aesthetic, a raised bed can be a great addition to your garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Pine cones keep kitty out of flower beds
If neighborhood cats or other critters are digging in your flower beds, try this neat tip from reader Nancy Jones:
“I have tried something I read about to help keep the neighbors’ seven cats out of my side flower garden where the soil is loose and rich with peat moss and they love that for their personal bathroom. “I go to an apartment complex near my house and gather up laundry baskets of pine cones and then spread them around in my garden. This seems to work. “I have noticed the fecal matter problem has disappeared since I started doing this. Of course, it will need a little renewal of the pine cones, but they seem to last and last. “I should say that I don't put them down really thick. I just sort of sprinkle them around the plants. The reason this is supposed to work is because the cats don't like the feeling on their little paws. I have done this for about ten years and it works for me!”
QUESTION: “My husband & I planted a Bradford pear tree in our front yard when we built our house six years ago. We don't have a sprinkler system and the yard gets direct sun most of the day. The tree has not grown much in this six year period. Our next door neighbor planted the same type of tree after ours and theirs is huge.
“We planted two autumn maples two years ago and they are not growing either. We are concerned that we did not dig the holes wide enough and that the roots are not spreading as they should. What do you think? If the holes are not wide enough, can we dig around the trees to widen the holes?” – Sheri Brooks
ANSWER: Maples are slow growing trees, so don’t count on a lot of activity (at least noticeable activity) with them for awhile. Regarding the Bradford Pear, if it is producing any growth at all, then what you are seeing may be the plant’s natural growth rate. Is the tree beginning to bloom in early spring, followed by normal leafing out? If it is, then it has settled into a slower growing phase.
All factors would be based on the environment, which will include maintenance, unless you have noticed any health issues with the tree. Although it is difficult not to make comparisons with your neighbor’s tree, plants are living things just like people and will grow and develop at their own rate. I wouldn’t recommend digging around the tree’s root system as you suggest because you are likely to cut off growth that the tree has made over the past 6 years.
If you believe that there is a problem with the plant, you can contact your local Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) which will be listed in your local phone directory under your state’s department of agriculture.
QUESTION: “I have an amateur greenhouse and want to start some seeds. Every time I have started seeds in the past they come up spindly and I still don't know what I need to do to correct this.
”I have panoramic light, air circulation and regulated heat, as well as good humidity. All my plants I winter in the greenhouse thrive in these conditions. Thanks for any info!” – Bonnie Meador
ANSWER: When seeds are allowed to sprout and grow too fast they become spindly. Once the seeds have sprouted they need to be “tempered” by placing them into a less desirable environment. In your case you could try cutting back on the water and reduce the humidity by taking the extra hothouse-type screen off the top. The environment in the rest of the greenhouse works for your developed plants but is not good for your new sprouts once they come up. It just sounds as if you are babying them too much after they emerge. Just cut back some on the water and nutrients until they begin to fatten up.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
“I have tried something I read about to help keep the neighbors’ seven cats out of my side flower garden where the soil is loose and rich with peat moss and they love that for their personal bathroom. “I go to an apartment complex near my house and gather up laundry baskets of pine cones and then spread them around in my garden. This seems to work. “I have noticed the fecal matter problem has disappeared since I started doing this. Of course, it will need a little renewal of the pine cones, but they seem to last and last. “I should say that I don't put them down really thick. I just sort of sprinkle them around the plants. The reason this is supposed to work is because the cats don't like the feeling on their little paws. I have done this for about ten years and it works for me!”
QUESTION: “My husband & I planted a Bradford pear tree in our front yard when we built our house six years ago. We don't have a sprinkler system and the yard gets direct sun most of the day. The tree has not grown much in this six year period. Our next door neighbor planted the same type of tree after ours and theirs is huge.
“We planted two autumn maples two years ago and they are not growing either. We are concerned that we did not dig the holes wide enough and that the roots are not spreading as they should. What do you think? If the holes are not wide enough, can we dig around the trees to widen the holes?” – Sheri Brooks
ANSWER: Maples are slow growing trees, so don’t count on a lot of activity (at least noticeable activity) with them for awhile. Regarding the Bradford Pear, if it is producing any growth at all, then what you are seeing may be the plant’s natural growth rate. Is the tree beginning to bloom in early spring, followed by normal leafing out? If it is, then it has settled into a slower growing phase.
All factors would be based on the environment, which will include maintenance, unless you have noticed any health issues with the tree. Although it is difficult not to make comparisons with your neighbor’s tree, plants are living things just like people and will grow and develop at their own rate. I wouldn’t recommend digging around the tree’s root system as you suggest because you are likely to cut off growth that the tree has made over the past 6 years.
If you believe that there is a problem with the plant, you can contact your local Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) which will be listed in your local phone directory under your state’s department of agriculture.
QUESTION: “I have an amateur greenhouse and want to start some seeds. Every time I have started seeds in the past they come up spindly and I still don't know what I need to do to correct this.
”I have panoramic light, air circulation and regulated heat, as well as good humidity. All my plants I winter in the greenhouse thrive in these conditions. Thanks for any info!” – Bonnie Meador
ANSWER: When seeds are allowed to sprout and grow too fast they become spindly. Once the seeds have sprouted they need to be “tempered” by placing them into a less desirable environment. In your case you could try cutting back on the water and reduce the humidity by taking the extra hothouse-type screen off the top. The environment in the rest of the greenhouse works for your developed plants but is not good for your new sprouts once they come up. It just sounds as if you are babying them too much after they emerge. Just cut back some on the water and nutrients until they begin to fatten up.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, March 04, 2008
New plant varieties surprise even seasoned gardeners
One of the delights of owning a nursery, as Cheryl and I do, is the continual discovery of new plants or plants we never before knew existed.
Just when we think we must have seen it all, botanists and horticulturists surprise us with new varieties that still make us say, “Wow!” after all these years.
Often, these new varieties are developed under a cloak of secrecy with as high a regard for security as, say, an automobile company designing and testing a new car. It might surprise you to know that botanists submit their new varieties to the U.S. Patent Office, along with lengthy descriptions and illustrations of their “inventions.” Highly precise detail is required in order to demonstrate that the plant in question really is a new variety, developed by the horticulturists who are submitting it.
If you would like to see what a plant patent submission looks like, you can find one for a peach tree named Corinthian Rose at http://www.freepatentsonline.com/PP11564.html You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
The Corinthian Rose (Prunus persica Corinthian Rose to be precise) really is a spectacular flowering tree judging from the pictures I’ve seen. We have planted some already and we are looking forward to watching them develop, as we do with all of our new “discoveries.”
If you’re looking to start a peach orchard, this isn’t the tree for you. Corinthian Rose bears little or no fruit. This new cultivar is intended for ornamental use in the home landscape.
One of its most distinct characteristics is its narrowly columnar growth habit. The tree will reach a height of 20 to 30 feet at maturity with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet.
So why is “rose” part of its name?
Around May and June, it bursts forth with double pink rose-colored blooms, giving the appearance of an unusually large and impressive rose bush, rather than an ornamental peach tree. When the blooms are gone, Corinthian Rose can still be enjoyed for its distinctive dark purple leaves.
I think this would be the ideal tree to enhance a patio area for any sunny spot in the garden that could become a focal point of its surrounding landscape. It has a vigorous growth pattern, reaching 14 to 16 feet in about four years. You would need to follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season in order to establish a deep and extensive root system. Before new growth begins in spring, feed it with a general purpose fertilizer.
You can find more information and where to buy Corinthian Rose peach trees by going to Google and simply typing in the words Corinthian Rose.
Horticulturists develop new varieties to create plants that are beautiful and esthetically pleasing to the eye. However, they will also develop cultivars for more practical reasons.
Take, for example, Wintercreeper. It is an attractive family of plants but some varieties are known for their spreading characteristics.
As a result, a relatively new variety was developed that has a much-reduced spread pattern. Known as Emerald Gaiety Wintercreeper or Euonymus Emerald Gaiety, this variety is a versatile and undemanding shrub that does fine in full sun or fairly deep shade and even in quite dry soil.
Emerald Gaiety has green and cream variegated foliage that turns to pinkish red in winter. It can reach 4 to 5 feet in height and a width of about 3 feet with a dense, erect branching habit that makes it a good choice for a hedge or screen.
Of course there are times when a spreading or climbing plant is exactly what you need. For example, Emerald Gaiety’s smaller cousin, Purple Wintercreeper, is an ideal choice if you’re looking for a low-growing groundcover for a hard-to-mow slope with the added benefit that it can help to control soil erosion.
New varieties can please the senses and serve practical purposes. There’s always something new to grow in the garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Just when we think we must have seen it all, botanists and horticulturists surprise us with new varieties that still make us say, “Wow!” after all these years.
Often, these new varieties are developed under a cloak of secrecy with as high a regard for security as, say, an automobile company designing and testing a new car. It might surprise you to know that botanists submit their new varieties to the U.S. Patent Office, along with lengthy descriptions and illustrations of their “inventions.” Highly precise detail is required in order to demonstrate that the plant in question really is a new variety, developed by the horticulturists who are submitting it.
If you would like to see what a plant patent submission looks like, you can find one for a peach tree named Corinthian Rose at http://www.freepatentsonline.com/PP11564.html You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
The Corinthian Rose (Prunus persica Corinthian Rose to be precise) really is a spectacular flowering tree judging from the pictures I’ve seen. We have planted some already and we are looking forward to watching them develop, as we do with all of our new “discoveries.”
If you’re looking to start a peach orchard, this isn’t the tree for you. Corinthian Rose bears little or no fruit. This new cultivar is intended for ornamental use in the home landscape.
One of its most distinct characteristics is its narrowly columnar growth habit. The tree will reach a height of 20 to 30 feet at maturity with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet.
So why is “rose” part of its name?
Around May and June, it bursts forth with double pink rose-colored blooms, giving the appearance of an unusually large and impressive rose bush, rather than an ornamental peach tree. When the blooms are gone, Corinthian Rose can still be enjoyed for its distinctive dark purple leaves.
I think this would be the ideal tree to enhance a patio area for any sunny spot in the garden that could become a focal point of its surrounding landscape. It has a vigorous growth pattern, reaching 14 to 16 feet in about four years. You would need to follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season in order to establish a deep and extensive root system. Before new growth begins in spring, feed it with a general purpose fertilizer.
You can find more information and where to buy Corinthian Rose peach trees by going to Google and simply typing in the words Corinthian Rose.
Horticulturists develop new varieties to create plants that are beautiful and esthetically pleasing to the eye. However, they will also develop cultivars for more practical reasons.
Take, for example, Wintercreeper. It is an attractive family of plants but some varieties are known for their spreading characteristics.
As a result, a relatively new variety was developed that has a much-reduced spread pattern. Known as Emerald Gaiety Wintercreeper or Euonymus Emerald Gaiety, this variety is a versatile and undemanding shrub that does fine in full sun or fairly deep shade and even in quite dry soil.
Emerald Gaiety has green and cream variegated foliage that turns to pinkish red in winter. It can reach 4 to 5 feet in height and a width of about 3 feet with a dense, erect branching habit that makes it a good choice for a hedge or screen.
Of course there are times when a spreading or climbing plant is exactly what you need. For example, Emerald Gaiety’s smaller cousin, Purple Wintercreeper, is an ideal choice if you’re looking for a low-growing groundcover for a hard-to-mow slope with the added benefit that it can help to control soil erosion.
New varieties can please the senses and serve practical purposes. There’s always something new to grow in the garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Clean up, fix up garden in time for spring
The first day of spring is just around the corner. All over America, garden lovers are coming out of their metaphorical hibernation and beginning to head back outside with that eternal optimism that this year’s garden will be an improvement over last year’s!
The Vernal Equinox, to give this day its official title, falls on March 20th, 2008, with day and night being of equal duration. There’s something about the first day of spring that lifts the spirits of everyone. But those of us who spend a lot of time outdoors for work or pleasure take particular delight in the official arrival of spring.
Even chores seem less chore-like. Just as preparing a meal is more enjoyable than doing the dishes afterwards, spring garden tasks are more fun than stowing away everything as the winter chill approaches.
Here are just a few items to put on your garden to-do list.
Clean up
Rain, frost and winter storms can cover your landscape with twigs, small tree limbs and other debris. During those cold weeks, you didn’t feel motivated to go out there and pick up all those bits and pieces, but now it’s time. Patrol your land with a lawn and leaf bag to collect the smaller bits and haul away the big pieces. Make this your first task because, in addition to cleaning up your space, you will discover any areas that might have become damaged over the winter and will require some TLC.
Weeding
Soft moist soil makes weeding much easier and this time of year usually provides those conditions. Look for weed seedlings that you can remove before they mature. It might be tempting to add these pulled weeds to your compost but resist the temptation. You’ll simply be creating a weed farm!
Compost
However, non-weed material can be added to compost. Many gardeners like to start a new compost pile alongside last year’s “mature” pile. You can add leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peelings and even straw and paper. As well as weeds, avoid adding any plant material that appears to be diseased.
Pruning
There’s a lot of fear and trepidation about pruning, particularly when it comes to when and how much to prune. Pruning at the wrong time might cause a shrub to not bloom that season, but is unlikely to be a death sentence. Among the plants that can be pruned in early spring while still dormant are: Flowering Dogwood, Bradford Pear, Wisteria, Red Bud, and Crape Myrtle.
If you are in doubt about pruning, I recommend a visit to this Web site http://gardening.about.com/od/treesshrubs/a/PruneTreeShrubs.htm for a comprehensive “how and when” guide. You can also go to gardening.about.com and simply search the phrase “When to prune.”
Ornamental grasses
If you left your ornamental grasses untrimmed over winter, now is the time to trim them back. Simply snipping away at them gives you quite a lot of clean-up. To prevent this, gather together the stems in bundles and wrap masking tape tightly around the mid-section. Lean the bundle to one side and use shears or a hedge trimmer to cut the grasses back to ground level. Take the bundles to your compost pile and snip off the masking tape.
Preparing new beds
The ideal time to dig a new bed is in the fall. The soil is usually drier and the warmth of late fall sunshine helps along any soil amendments you added, working through the winter, ready for you to plant in the spring
But it’s still possible to start a new bed in the spring. Avoid this task when the soil is wet and heavy. You’ll find it is far easier once the soil is drier.
As you can see, this is just a quick overview of early spring garden needs. I’m happy to respond to any specific questions that you wish to send me via e-mail. You can find literally hundreds of in-depth articles at my Web site. You might also wish to visit a site hosted by the National Gardening Association: http://garden.org/home where you can type in your zip code for a report for your geographical region.
Spring fever… catch it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
The Vernal Equinox, to give this day its official title, falls on March 20th, 2008, with day and night being of equal duration. There’s something about the first day of spring that lifts the spirits of everyone. But those of us who spend a lot of time outdoors for work or pleasure take particular delight in the official arrival of spring.
Even chores seem less chore-like. Just as preparing a meal is more enjoyable than doing the dishes afterwards, spring garden tasks are more fun than stowing away everything as the winter chill approaches.
Here are just a few items to put on your garden to-do list.
Clean up
Rain, frost and winter storms can cover your landscape with twigs, small tree limbs and other debris. During those cold weeks, you didn’t feel motivated to go out there and pick up all those bits and pieces, but now it’s time. Patrol your land with a lawn and leaf bag to collect the smaller bits and haul away the big pieces. Make this your first task because, in addition to cleaning up your space, you will discover any areas that might have become damaged over the winter and will require some TLC.
Weeding
Soft moist soil makes weeding much easier and this time of year usually provides those conditions. Look for weed seedlings that you can remove before they mature. It might be tempting to add these pulled weeds to your compost but resist the temptation. You’ll simply be creating a weed farm!
Compost
However, non-weed material can be added to compost. Many gardeners like to start a new compost pile alongside last year’s “mature” pile. You can add leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peelings and even straw and paper. As well as weeds, avoid adding any plant material that appears to be diseased.
Pruning
There’s a lot of fear and trepidation about pruning, particularly when it comes to when and how much to prune. Pruning at the wrong time might cause a shrub to not bloom that season, but is unlikely to be a death sentence. Among the plants that can be pruned in early spring while still dormant are: Flowering Dogwood, Bradford Pear, Wisteria, Red Bud, and Crape Myrtle.
If you are in doubt about pruning, I recommend a visit to this Web site http://gardening.about.com/od/treesshrubs/a/PruneTreeShrubs.htm for a comprehensive “how and when” guide. You can also go to gardening.about.com and simply search the phrase “When to prune.”
Ornamental grasses
If you left your ornamental grasses untrimmed over winter, now is the time to trim them back. Simply snipping away at them gives you quite a lot of clean-up. To prevent this, gather together the stems in bundles and wrap masking tape tightly around the mid-section. Lean the bundle to one side and use shears or a hedge trimmer to cut the grasses back to ground level. Take the bundles to your compost pile and snip off the masking tape.
Preparing new beds
The ideal time to dig a new bed is in the fall. The soil is usually drier and the warmth of late fall sunshine helps along any soil amendments you added, working through the winter, ready for you to plant in the spring
But it’s still possible to start a new bed in the spring. Avoid this task when the soil is wet and heavy. You’ll find it is far easier once the soil is drier.
As you can see, this is just a quick overview of early spring garden needs. I’m happy to respond to any specific questions that you wish to send me via e-mail. You can find literally hundreds of in-depth articles at my Web site. You might also wish to visit a site hosted by the National Gardening Association: http://garden.org/home where you can type in your zip code for a report for your geographical region.
Spring fever… catch it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Vinegar may be a potent weed killer
Wherever possible, I prefer to find organic solutions to garden problems. Several readers have asked me about using vinegar to eradicate weeds.
QUESTION: “I am looking for some info on organic weed killers. I have numerous recipes for organic weed killers with testimonials on how effective they are. They all call for high acidic vinegar or industrial vinegar. I have searched high and low and have not found where I can purchase this miracle of modern man! I have been in the gardening business for years and have had my own business for the past three years (organically based as much as my customers will allow) and find myself feeling grossly inadequate when it comes to this. If you could please let me in on your wonderful wealth of knowledge and pass on the golden key, it would mean the world to me.” – Laurie Orsini
ANSWER: There is quite a lot of research under way into the effectiveness of vinegar as a weed killer. I found a online article that you should definitely look at. You can read it at (Please note the original article is no longer available) http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-vinegar-salt-weed-killer-49329.html
The writer, Patricia Diaz, notes that regular household vinegar is a 5% acetic acid concentration. While this works on some weeds, a greater concentration is needed for other or more mature weeds. By distilling, a 15% concentration can be obtained, and a 30% concentration can be obtained by freeze evaporation. These concentrated acetic acids, if they are derived from plant sources and not from chemicals, are acceptable for agricultural use by the organic community. (Please note the original article is no longer available online.)
Note that vinegar with acetic acid concentrations greater than 5% may be hazardous and should be handled with appropriate precautions.
You can learn more about the use of vinegar as a weed killer at this USDA site: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2002/020515.htm
Aside from pulling all the weeds out, Cheryl and I have found the best solution is to use organic material to build the soil. If you keep soil healthy, weeds do not seem to do as well. Most of the time you see weeds growing where more desirable plants have a tough time. Again, this is because there is some kind of deficiency. Calcium deficiency is a common cause. Organic products such as Turf Tea Quality Grow, Prosper Soil Conditioner and Smart Coral Calcium can be effective in building healthy, robust soil.
QUESTION: “I have a question regarding a column of yours that was published in the newspaper on July 19, 2006. In the article you discuss the control of the Japanese beetle with the use of "milk spore." Since then, I have asked several area nurserymen if they have this product. None of them had heard of it. Can you please give me more info regarding this?” – Carol Schick
ANSWER: Milk spore is safe around pets and children but kills grubs. It is considered a disease, but it only affects beetle larvae (grubs). Once built up, milk spore can remain dormant in the soil, only reactivating when new grubs appear. It is applied in powder form, using approximately 10 lbs per acre. Here is a useful link I found for you. http://www.ecolandscaping.org/05/pests-pest-management/controlling-grubs-milky-spore-disease-or-beneficial-nematodes/
You should be able to buy Milk Spore powder at your local True Value or Ace Hardware Stores. It's also available online. I hope you are successful in your battle against the grubs!
QUESTION: “I am looking for some info on organic weed killers. I have numerous recipes for organic weed killers with testimonials on how effective they are. They all call for high acidic vinegar or industrial vinegar. I have searched high and low and have not found where I can purchase this miracle of modern man! I have been in the gardening business for years and have had my own business for the past three years (organically based as much as my customers will allow) and find myself feeling grossly inadequate when it comes to this. If you could please let me in on your wonderful wealth of knowledge and pass on the golden key, it would mean the world to me.” – Laurie Orsini
ANSWER: There is quite a lot of research under way into the effectiveness of vinegar as a weed killer. I found a online article that you should definitely look at. You can read it at (Please note the original article is no longer available) http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-vinegar-salt-weed-killer-49329.html
The writer, Patricia Diaz, notes that regular household vinegar is a 5% acetic acid concentration. While this works on some weeds, a greater concentration is needed for other or more mature weeds. By distilling, a 15% concentration can be obtained, and a 30% concentration can be obtained by freeze evaporation. These concentrated acetic acids, if they are derived from plant sources and not from chemicals, are acceptable for agricultural use by the organic community. (Please note the original article is no longer available online.)
Note that vinegar with acetic acid concentrations greater than 5% may be hazardous and should be handled with appropriate precautions.
You can learn more about the use of vinegar as a weed killer at this USDA site: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2002/020515.htm
Aside from pulling all the weeds out, Cheryl and I have found the best solution is to use organic material to build the soil. If you keep soil healthy, weeds do not seem to do as well. Most of the time you see weeds growing where more desirable plants have a tough time. Again, this is because there is some kind of deficiency. Calcium deficiency is a common cause. Organic products such as Turf Tea Quality Grow, Prosper Soil Conditioner and Smart Coral Calcium can be effective in building healthy, robust soil.
QUESTION: “I have a question regarding a column of yours that was published in the newspaper on July 19, 2006. In the article you discuss the control of the Japanese beetle with the use of "milk spore." Since then, I have asked several area nurserymen if they have this product. None of them had heard of it. Can you please give me more info regarding this?” – Carol Schick
ANSWER: Milk spore is safe around pets and children but kills grubs. It is considered a disease, but it only affects beetle larvae (grubs). Once built up, milk spore can remain dormant in the soil, only reactivating when new grubs appear. It is applied in powder form, using approximately 10 lbs per acre. Here is a useful link I found for you. http://www.ecolandscaping.org/05/pests-pest-management/controlling-grubs-milky-spore-disease-or-beneficial-nematodes/
You should be able to buy Milk Spore powder at your local True Value or Ace Hardware Stores. It's also available online. I hope you are successful in your battle against the grubs!
Wednesday, February 06, 2008
Physically challenged people can still enjoy garden
Recently, I received an e-mailed letter from a lady who described herself as disabled. She wrote that she had always enjoyed tending her garden, but, due to her physical disability, she felt nervous about trying to work around her flowers and shrubs. She wondered if I had any ideas that would be useful to physically challenged people such as herself.
I shared the e-mail with my wife Cheryl who immediately recognized the importance of the subject. Cheryl went to work on some research, and what follows is largely based on the response that she sent to the lady and to others who are faced with similar challenges.
Here are some tips on how to make gardening easier for those with disabilities, whether they have arthritis, are in a wheelchair or are visually impaired. Maybe you or someone in your household has difficulty getting around in the garden, so let’s see what can be done to make it easier and more enjoyable.
Raised beds and planters
Gardening in raised beds and planters makes the plants much more accessible to reach. A raised bed about 2 to 3 feet wide should work for most people, but you can make it wider than that if you will be able to access it safely from both sides. An important consideration is the height of the bed and it should match the needs of the person gardening in it. For example, a person in a wheelchair would want the height anywhere from 18 to 24 inches tall, while someone with arthritis may want to garden standing and could use a height in the 3 to 4 foot range.
Containers
Instead of planting at ground level, use lots of pots or other containers such as window boxes at an appropriate height. To help reduce the weight, use Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom half of the containers and fill with soil. You can plant just about everything from seeds and perennials to small shrubs and small trees in containers. For ease in moving the pots, use wheeled caddies that are available at most hardware stores.
Hanging baskets
Gardeners who have difficulty reaching up or need to remain seated can still enjoy planting in hanging baskets. Simply locate the baskets at lower levels or place them on benches while you work on them at a convenient height.
Garden up!
Another way to avoid excessive stooping or kneeling is to use trellises and other types of plant supporters. Once climbing plants grab hold of the trellis, fence or pergola, they quickly climb to eye level and beyond, so they can be clipped and trimmed, or simply enjoyed, while standing or seated. A climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Petiolaris) is easy to grow, care free and very long lived. American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is another good choice with its yellow-orange fruit that attracts birds in the fall, or perhaps English Ivy.
Walkways and paths
Walkways should be a minimum of 3 feet wide. Ramps should be made of a non-slippery material and a handrail may be necessary. There are many possible surface materials for walkways. While packed soil is one of the cheapest, it will be muddy during wet weather. Sandstone pavers and brick are also good options but will be more costly. Remember, wood will work, but will be slippery when wet.
Sight and sound
For the visually impaired, choose plants that offer bright colors, variety of textures and lots of fragrance. A wide assortment of perennials and herbs works wonders for the senses. Group large areas of plants according to colors for more impact, as those with only partial visual problems will be able to locate them easier. Use sound effectively. Add into the garden chimes, wind mills, fountains, and birdhouses to create soothing sounds.
For further reading on how to remake a garden to be more accommodating for those with physical disabilities or limitations, check out these books at your local library, bookstore or online: “Accessible Gardening for People with Physical Disabilities: A Guide to Methods, Tools, and Plants” by Janeen R. Adil “Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques for Seniors & the Disabled” by Joann Woy
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
I shared the e-mail with my wife Cheryl who immediately recognized the importance of the subject. Cheryl went to work on some research, and what follows is largely based on the response that she sent to the lady and to others who are faced with similar challenges.
Here are some tips on how to make gardening easier for those with disabilities, whether they have arthritis, are in a wheelchair or are visually impaired. Maybe you or someone in your household has difficulty getting around in the garden, so let’s see what can be done to make it easier and more enjoyable.
Raised beds and planters
Gardening in raised beds and planters makes the plants much more accessible to reach. A raised bed about 2 to 3 feet wide should work for most people, but you can make it wider than that if you will be able to access it safely from both sides. An important consideration is the height of the bed and it should match the needs of the person gardening in it. For example, a person in a wheelchair would want the height anywhere from 18 to 24 inches tall, while someone with arthritis may want to garden standing and could use a height in the 3 to 4 foot range.
Containers
Instead of planting at ground level, use lots of pots or other containers such as window boxes at an appropriate height. To help reduce the weight, use Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom half of the containers and fill with soil. You can plant just about everything from seeds and perennials to small shrubs and small trees in containers. For ease in moving the pots, use wheeled caddies that are available at most hardware stores.
Hanging baskets
Gardeners who have difficulty reaching up or need to remain seated can still enjoy planting in hanging baskets. Simply locate the baskets at lower levels or place them on benches while you work on them at a convenient height.
Garden up!
Another way to avoid excessive stooping or kneeling is to use trellises and other types of plant supporters. Once climbing plants grab hold of the trellis, fence or pergola, they quickly climb to eye level and beyond, so they can be clipped and trimmed, or simply enjoyed, while standing or seated. A climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Petiolaris) is easy to grow, care free and very long lived. American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is another good choice with its yellow-orange fruit that attracts birds in the fall, or perhaps English Ivy.
Walkways and paths
Walkways should be a minimum of 3 feet wide. Ramps should be made of a non-slippery material and a handrail may be necessary. There are many possible surface materials for walkways. While packed soil is one of the cheapest, it will be muddy during wet weather. Sandstone pavers and brick are also good options but will be more costly. Remember, wood will work, but will be slippery when wet.
Sight and sound
For the visually impaired, choose plants that offer bright colors, variety of textures and lots of fragrance. A wide assortment of perennials and herbs works wonders for the senses. Group large areas of plants according to colors for more impact, as those with only partial visual problems will be able to locate them easier. Use sound effectively. Add into the garden chimes, wind mills, fountains, and birdhouses to create soothing sounds.
For further reading on how to remake a garden to be more accommodating for those with physical disabilities or limitations, check out these books at your local library, bookstore or online: “Accessible Gardening for People with Physical Disabilities: A Guide to Methods, Tools, and Plants” by Janeen R. Adil “Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques for Seniors & the Disabled” by Joann Woy
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Non-flowering plant needs “spa therapy” to bloom
QUESTION: “My hydrangea plant is healthy but has only put out one flower in last four years. Do I need a second plant to make it flower?” – Darlene
ANSWER: I guess you are thinking that you might need another plant for cross pollination in order to get your hydrangea to flower. In this case, I don’t think you need a second plant. My suggestion is to wait until after it has bloomed (or should have bloomed) and then trim back the bush somewhat. Then, in the fall after leaf drop, mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts to one gallon of water and pour on the soil around the base of the plant and let it soak into the ground.
The following spring, you should repeat the process just as the leaves are starting to emerge. Regular readers know that Cheryl and I use this “plant spa treatment” to help stubborn plants bring forth more blooms. Keep in touch and let me know if it works for you.
In last week’s column, I discussed some plants that will thrive in shaded areas where nothing else seems to grow. If you missed that column, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens.” Here’s a question that my wife Cheryl answered regarding herb gardening in the shade.
QUESTION: Which herbs can I plant in fully shaded areas? I’ve read other sites that recommend parsley or chives for fully shaded areas. Do you agree? If not, which herb would you recommend planting in shaded areas, if any?” – Maria
ANSWER: I like to plant and play around with herbs, too. From experience, most herbs do like full sun, though some will also grow in a filtered shady area. My chives have always grown and done well in full sun. You need to be sure to not let the heads go to seed and drop or you will have chives popping up all over the place! Even though thyme generally requires sun, I have golden thyme under a wisteria covered arbor and sage has grown well there also.
Try the same herbs in sun and shade to see which ones will grow for your area. Herbs that are hard to control, such as mints, should be planted in containers or they will be growing everywhere.
Playing with plants is part of the fun and at the same time becomes a learning experience.
All of the questions in this column were originally addressed in a recent edition of my weekly e-newsletter. If you’d like a free subscription, simply send me an e-mail with your request.
QUESTION: “I have several Blue Spruces that are at least 20 to 30 feet tall. Every year they get a parasite that looks like soft brown cones that hang down from their small branches. If you know what these things are, could you advise me on how to rid the trees from these parasites? Thank you.” – Jose
ANSWER: What you have there are known as bag worms. As soon as you see them appearing you will have to pull all of them off carefully, put them in a paper sack and take them away from the area to burn.
At least twice each season you will have to spray the trees and the ground under and around them with an insecticide such as malathion in order to keep your spruces free of bag worms. A word of caution: be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after spraying and leave any boots or clothing outdoors that might have been sprayed. Malathion has a low human toxicity but if it enters an indoor environment, it can break down into malaoxon which can be quite poisonous to animals and humans.
You will eventually reduce the bag worm population, but I’m afraid they are here to stay.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: I guess you are thinking that you might need another plant for cross pollination in order to get your hydrangea to flower. In this case, I don’t think you need a second plant. My suggestion is to wait until after it has bloomed (or should have bloomed) and then trim back the bush somewhat. Then, in the fall after leaf drop, mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts to one gallon of water and pour on the soil around the base of the plant and let it soak into the ground.
The following spring, you should repeat the process just as the leaves are starting to emerge. Regular readers know that Cheryl and I use this “plant spa treatment” to help stubborn plants bring forth more blooms. Keep in touch and let me know if it works for you.
In last week’s column, I discussed some plants that will thrive in shaded areas where nothing else seems to grow. If you missed that column, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens.” Here’s a question that my wife Cheryl answered regarding herb gardening in the shade.
QUESTION: Which herbs can I plant in fully shaded areas? I’ve read other sites that recommend parsley or chives for fully shaded areas. Do you agree? If not, which herb would you recommend planting in shaded areas, if any?” – Maria
ANSWER: I like to plant and play around with herbs, too. From experience, most herbs do like full sun, though some will also grow in a filtered shady area. My chives have always grown and done well in full sun. You need to be sure to not let the heads go to seed and drop or you will have chives popping up all over the place! Even though thyme generally requires sun, I have golden thyme under a wisteria covered arbor and sage has grown well there also.
Try the same herbs in sun and shade to see which ones will grow for your area. Herbs that are hard to control, such as mints, should be planted in containers or they will be growing everywhere.
Playing with plants is part of the fun and at the same time becomes a learning experience.
All of the questions in this column were originally addressed in a recent edition of my weekly e-newsletter. If you’d like a free subscription, simply send me an e-mail with your request.
QUESTION: “I have several Blue Spruces that are at least 20 to 30 feet tall. Every year they get a parasite that looks like soft brown cones that hang down from their small branches. If you know what these things are, could you advise me on how to rid the trees from these parasites? Thank you.” – Jose
ANSWER: What you have there are known as bag worms. As soon as you see them appearing you will have to pull all of them off carefully, put them in a paper sack and take them away from the area to burn.
At least twice each season you will have to spray the trees and the ground under and around them with an insecticide such as malathion in order to keep your spruces free of bag worms. A word of caution: be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after spraying and leave any boots or clothing outdoors that might have been sprayed. Malathion has a low human toxicity but if it enters an indoor environment, it can break down into malaoxon which can be quite poisonous to animals and humans.
You will eventually reduce the bag worm population, but I’m afraid they are here to stay.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens
Finding plants that thrive in shady area and under trees is a problem but not impossible. If that’s a dilemma for you, I have some helpful ideas.
QUESTION: “I love reading your column each week! You have great advice on plants. I recently read your column that mentioned vinca minor and pachysandra terminalis for shady areas.
“We have a backyard that faces woods to the north and the yard portion is only about 30' wide between the deck and the woods. About half of the western side of this backyard is totally shaded due to trees and is bare dirt.
“We have three boys (as well as other neighbor boys) who run around a lot in the yard and we haven't been able to get any grass to grow successfully in that area. It grows in May and June and then once the tree leaves come in the grass dies due to lack of sunlight! We have tried all types of grass and none work.
“During the rainy season other backyards drain through our yard to the creek in the woods, so the area it gets pretty muddy but it does drain and there is no standing water.
“I am so tired of this ugly look that is so hard on bare feet as well! Can you recommend any low-growing or appropriate groundcover that would work in such a shady area?” – Lisa Knapp
ANSWER: Thanks for the compliments and for being a reader to the column.
As a reminder to you and other readers, I’ll mention a few suitable groundcovers, below. It is fairly easy to work with any of these shade-tolerant groundcovers but you will have to establish for at least one growing season before the area can suffer a lot of traffic.
As always, the best first step is to establish the area where you want to plant your groundcover. Regular readers know that I recommend using a garden hose that you place on the ground and move around and indicate the perimeter of the area you intend to plant. Step back and take a look. Not quite satisfied yet? Simply move the hose a little (or a lot) until you see the desired outline of the proposed area. This is the landscaper’s equivalent of the carpenter’s motto, “Measure twice, cut once.” Moving a hose now is easy; moving plants later isn’t.
Once you have determined the shape, fill in the area with top soil, compost or plantable mulch. Keep in mind that during the rainy season you have to have a way for the water to travel so do not block the natural flow. You might then want to put some type of edging around the perimeter to establish a boundary. Then you can plant your groundcover in early spring. You can also plant groundcover in the fall, but if you do, make sure you mulch in the roots for winter and then let it go until the following spring.
Here are some shade-loving groundcovers that are worth investigating:
Pachysandra Green Sheen
This is the most reliable cold-season groundcover for shaded areas and is ideal for planting under the canopies of established trees where little else grows. It’s also good for planting by on the north side of wall or on north-facing slopes. Green Sheen has extremely glossy foliage that sometimes looks too good to be real!
Pachysandra, variegated Japanese
An alternative (or addition) to the Green Sheen, the variegated Japanese thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens. It is low-growing and compact, retaining its beauty with white tinged leaves even in adverse conditions.
Dicentra Candy Hearts
This is a relatively new Bleeding Heart variety that produces masses of pendulous bright pink candy-like flowers. I would recommend that Candy Hearts be planted where they’ll get some partial sun for part of the day but they are shade-tolerant.
Ajuga Reptans “Burgundy Glow”
A creeping, mat-forming evergreen perennial that does well in shady area. It spreads rapidly to a width of 24 to 36 inches and a height of only six inches. The cream and maroon variegated leaves make a pleasant contrast in any garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I love reading your column each week! You have great advice on plants. I recently read your column that mentioned vinca minor and pachysandra terminalis for shady areas.
“We have a backyard that faces woods to the north and the yard portion is only about 30' wide between the deck and the woods. About half of the western side of this backyard is totally shaded due to trees and is bare dirt.
“We have three boys (as well as other neighbor boys) who run around a lot in the yard and we haven't been able to get any grass to grow successfully in that area. It grows in May and June and then once the tree leaves come in the grass dies due to lack of sunlight! We have tried all types of grass and none work.
“During the rainy season other backyards drain through our yard to the creek in the woods, so the area it gets pretty muddy but it does drain and there is no standing water.
“I am so tired of this ugly look that is so hard on bare feet as well! Can you recommend any low-growing or appropriate groundcover that would work in such a shady area?” – Lisa Knapp
ANSWER: Thanks for the compliments and for being a reader to the column.
As a reminder to you and other readers, I’ll mention a few suitable groundcovers, below. It is fairly easy to work with any of these shade-tolerant groundcovers but you will have to establish for at least one growing season before the area can suffer a lot of traffic.
As always, the best first step is to establish the area where you want to plant your groundcover. Regular readers know that I recommend using a garden hose that you place on the ground and move around and indicate the perimeter of the area you intend to plant. Step back and take a look. Not quite satisfied yet? Simply move the hose a little (or a lot) until you see the desired outline of the proposed area. This is the landscaper’s equivalent of the carpenter’s motto, “Measure twice, cut once.” Moving a hose now is easy; moving plants later isn’t.
Once you have determined the shape, fill in the area with top soil, compost or plantable mulch. Keep in mind that during the rainy season you have to have a way for the water to travel so do not block the natural flow. You might then want to put some type of edging around the perimeter to establish a boundary. Then you can plant your groundcover in early spring. You can also plant groundcover in the fall, but if you do, make sure you mulch in the roots for winter and then let it go until the following spring.
Here are some shade-loving groundcovers that are worth investigating:
Pachysandra Green Sheen
This is the most reliable cold-season groundcover for shaded areas and is ideal for planting under the canopies of established trees where little else grows. It’s also good for planting by on the north side of wall or on north-facing slopes. Green Sheen has extremely glossy foliage that sometimes looks too good to be real!
Pachysandra, variegated Japanese
An alternative (or addition) to the Green Sheen, the variegated Japanese thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens. It is low-growing and compact, retaining its beauty with white tinged leaves even in adverse conditions.
Dicentra Candy Hearts
This is a relatively new Bleeding Heart variety that produces masses of pendulous bright pink candy-like flowers. I would recommend that Candy Hearts be planted where they’ll get some partial sun for part of the day but they are shade-tolerant.
Ajuga Reptans “Burgundy Glow”
A creeping, mat-forming evergreen perennial that does well in shady area. It spreads rapidly to a width of 24 to 36 inches and a height of only six inches. The cream and maroon variegated leaves make a pleasant contrast in any garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
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