QUESTION: “When a description says the plant is deciduous, does that always mean it loses its leaves? Does it lose both its flowers and leaves or just flowers? I plan to landscape the front of our house, which faces east, and down the side of the house, which faces north. My husband and I want color and the foundation planting that will keep its leaves, which I always considered evergreen, but now I’m not so sure I’m understanding what to call different plants. How do I know what part of the plant is “deciduous”? Or is this a stupid question? I hope not. I just need help.” – Libby Sexton
ANSWER: It can be confusing sometimes. A deciduous plant (tree or shrub) will go dormant (its rest period) beginning when either the weather starts becoming colder (40’s to 50’s) or when an area experiences a hard frost (temperatures dropping below 32 degrees, usually overnight). It will begin to lose its leaves at this time. Blooming plants have specific periods when they bloom. They aren’t always in bloom. Many will bloom either in spring or summer.
“Evergreen” is used to describe plants (trees/shrubs) that do not go dormant and retain their leaves or needles. This generally refers to pines, spruces, boxwoods, junipers, yews and holly. Broadleaf evergreens are plants that retain leaves (very thick leaves) year round. But, they do shed the leaves periodically. This will apply to plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons and photinia.
Perennials are (usually) smaller plants which die completely back to the ground after cool weather or frost sets in, then return the following season. Annuals are plants that you have to set out every year as they will die completely. These include marigolds, pansies, geraniums, and other decorative often flowering plants.
QUESTION: “I have three holly bushes in shade (at least one female and at least one male, though I do not remember whether we have two males or two females), and they have had no berries for the last several years. What can I do to fix this problem?” – Janet Furey
ANSWER: Actually, this is one of the most frequent questions that I receive. I am so used to answering it that I guess I just didn't think about including it in the column or newsletter. Thanks' for the idea. But, so as not keep you in suspense, I'll share it with you now.
Not all hollies enjoy shade. If your varieties prefer sun, the shade can limit any blooming. You would have to move the plants.
One male plant can pollinate 4-6 female plants. But, both sexes must be in bloom at the same time and planted within 100 feet of each other. If several did produce berries at one time, the one holly bush that didn't have berries that year will be the male (male hollies don't produce berries).
Hollies don't usually begin flowering until after the 4th year. If your plants are younger, that might be the reason for no berries.
Hard frosts during their blooming period can cause the blooms to fall off before pollination. Cool and rainy spring weather will limit insects from pollinating effectively. Plants can be covered during blooming if cold weather is anticipated.
Recently I read that too much nitrogen in the soil can cause the blooms to fall off before pollination takes place. This can be caused not only from direct application of fertilizer to the plants, but run off from lawn and surrounding bed applications as well. Test your soil.
These are the most common reasons that holly shrubs will not produce fruit. I hope the list helps you find the cause of your plants not fruiting.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 08, 2007
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Add manure, compost now while plants are dormant
It seems that a lot of garden enthusiasts are really beginning to think about spring, judging by the volume of e-mailed questions arriving every day. If you have a question or a comment, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org I’ll do my best to respond quickly with a personal reply, and some of the Q&A’s will appear in this column or in my newsletter.
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column and Web site and have learned a lot. I have a huge perennial garden and was wondering how you add compost, fertilizer, black dirt, etc when the plants are so close together and I can't work the soil for fear of disturbing the plants. – Mary Jo Warren
ANSWER: Late winter/early spring is a great time to do this as the plants have died back to the ground and you don’t have branches/leaves to contend with. Mix aged manure/compost (I really like the Black Kow brand available in 50 lb bags at most hardware stores.) into the top portion of the soil, not disturbing the root systems.
You can also follow with some mulch at this time to keep the weed populations down. Early spring (just before your perennials begin to leaf out) is good to begin with a first application of fertilizer (especially if not adding in aged manure/compost mixture). A mild 5/10/5 slow release fertilizer applied in a ring around each plant with an additional 2 applications at 6 week intervals. Late bloomers will need an additional application in late summer. Broadcasting the fertilizer will also work as long as it doesn’t land on any leaves or in buds. Be sure to always water after fertilizing.
QUESTION: “I have a laceleaf weeping Japanese red maple. Should I prune it and if so when?”
ANSWER: I have one also and regularly prune it in March while the weather is still cool and it has not leafed out. Depending on where you are located, you may want to prune in February or March.
Clip out all of the dead branches/limbs as well as any that are touching or crossing over each other. When clipping back an entire branch for shaping, don’t clip flush with the trunk; leave a tiny nub (about ¼ inch out). Clipping flush with the trunk will leave a larger wound on the plant making it more susceptible to disease and fungus.
QUESTION: “I'm moving next week and my new house has everything I wanted except it's a little closer to a 55 mph highway that leads to the only mall in town than I would like. So, I'm looking for ways to lessen the annoyance of the traffic noise. My first inclination is to go with a fountain of some kind, so the water sounds will override the traffic sounds. But I'd also like to use some plants/landscaping to do more. What would you suggest?” – Carol Evans
ANSWER: A fountain might be a good idea for an alternate “sound source,” but you may still want some kind a growing barrier to baffle the traffic noise. I’m not sure where you are located but you might want to look at something like the cedar green giants. Then, on the inside of that “living fence,” you could add some interesting flowering shrubs.
QUESTION: “When is the best time to prune crepe myrtles? Also, when is the best time to trim azaleas?” – Chad Cornelius
ANSWER: Crape myrtles bloom the best on new growth, so prune them in late winter or early spring. On mature plants, you should be able to prune them back about 1/3 of their size. Azaleas should only be pruned immediately after they complete their blooming period.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column and Web site and have learned a lot. I have a huge perennial garden and was wondering how you add compost, fertilizer, black dirt, etc when the plants are so close together and I can't work the soil for fear of disturbing the plants. – Mary Jo Warren
ANSWER: Late winter/early spring is a great time to do this as the plants have died back to the ground and you don’t have branches/leaves to contend with. Mix aged manure/compost (I really like the Black Kow brand available in 50 lb bags at most hardware stores.) into the top portion of the soil, not disturbing the root systems.
You can also follow with some mulch at this time to keep the weed populations down. Early spring (just before your perennials begin to leaf out) is good to begin with a first application of fertilizer (especially if not adding in aged manure/compost mixture). A mild 5/10/5 slow release fertilizer applied in a ring around each plant with an additional 2 applications at 6 week intervals. Late bloomers will need an additional application in late summer. Broadcasting the fertilizer will also work as long as it doesn’t land on any leaves or in buds. Be sure to always water after fertilizing.
QUESTION: “I have a laceleaf weeping Japanese red maple. Should I prune it and if so when?”
ANSWER: I have one also and regularly prune it in March while the weather is still cool and it has not leafed out. Depending on where you are located, you may want to prune in February or March.
Clip out all of the dead branches/limbs as well as any that are touching or crossing over each other. When clipping back an entire branch for shaping, don’t clip flush with the trunk; leave a tiny nub (about ¼ inch out). Clipping flush with the trunk will leave a larger wound on the plant making it more susceptible to disease and fungus.
QUESTION: “I'm moving next week and my new house has everything I wanted except it's a little closer to a 55 mph highway that leads to the only mall in town than I would like. So, I'm looking for ways to lessen the annoyance of the traffic noise. My first inclination is to go with a fountain of some kind, so the water sounds will override the traffic sounds. But I'd also like to use some plants/landscaping to do more. What would you suggest?” – Carol Evans
ANSWER: A fountain might be a good idea for an alternate “sound source,” but you may still want some kind a growing barrier to baffle the traffic noise. I’m not sure where you are located but you might want to look at something like the cedar green giants. Then, on the inside of that “living fence,” you could add some interesting flowering shrubs.
QUESTION: “When is the best time to prune crepe myrtles? Also, when is the best time to trim azaleas?” – Chad Cornelius
ANSWER: Crape myrtles bloom the best on new growth, so prune them in late winter or early spring. On mature plants, you should be able to prune them back about 1/3 of their size. Azaleas should only be pruned immediately after they complete their blooming period.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Roses are top of mind as St. Valentine approaches
Roses are red Violets are blue, Better buy some for Sweetie Saint Valentine’s due.
As you read this, St. Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and as indicated in my little rhyme, above, one flower in particular is associated with February 14. Hint: It isn’t the violet.
Why is St. Valentine so closely identified with love, romance and roses?
Although Valentine’s Day has its origins in third-century Rome – one legend claims that Valentine was a priest who secretly performed marriage ceremonies for soldiers and their brides during a time when soldiers were forbidden to marry – it was not until the eighteenth century that lovers started sending cards or notes to each other to mark the holiday. Flowers didn’t come into vogue until greenhouses allowed growers to force flowers to bloom in the dead of winter.
I found that tidbit in a new book by Amy Stewart, titled “Flower Confidential.” Here are some more Valentine-related revelations from the book:
During the two weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, 12 to 15 million stems of Latin American flowers will arrive each day at Miami International Airport
Almost a third of American adults will buy flowers or a plant for Valentine’s Day. Roughly half of those people will purchase roses, mainly red roses.
Over a third of orders will be placed on February 13, and another 22% are called in on the holiday itself.
Americans buy 180 million roses for Valentine’s Day, and the average arrangement of a dozen roses costs just over $70.00.
In 2007, Valentine’s Day falls on a Wednesday. Flower sales peak when the holiday lands in the middle of the week, averaging $30,000 per shop.
A typical wage on an Ecuadorian flower farm is about $150.00 per month. Wages represent less than four cents for every rose sold.
Rose developers may spend seven years or more developing a new variety for market. An Australian team has been working for over ten years on developing a blue rose, using a pigment gene from petunias.
“Flower Confidential” contains more than just information on roses and Valentine’s Day, with hundreds of little known facts on the global flower market and tips and techniques to get the most out of your cut flowers. It is scheduled for publication February 9, 2007 by Algonquin Books.
However, the rose is the flower that is top of mind with everyone at this time of year. A couple of weeks ago in this column, I told you about some roses that are favorites of Cheryl’s and mine.
Just to remind you, they are collectively known as “Knockout Roses,” with varieties such as Knockout Red, Knockout Pink and Knockout Rainbow. All are delightful plants and don’t require a lot of fussing. If you missed that column or would like to read it again, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance.”
So here’s an idea. This year, how about planting some Knockout rose bushes for your sweetheart? Unlike a $70.00 bouquet that might only last a few days, tell your sweetie that, just like you love, these shrubs will last for years, growing stronger and more beautiful with each passing season. Now who could resist that?
Okay, it might be wise to also buy a sappy card and something personal. Only you can decide if “something personal” is a box of candy or a diamond bracelet. But for years of beauty in your garden, it’s hard to beat the vista of a beautiful grouping of colorful, fragrant rose bushes.
May you have a “blooming happy” St. Valentine’s Day!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
As you read this, St. Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and as indicated in my little rhyme, above, one flower in particular is associated with February 14. Hint: It isn’t the violet.
Why is St. Valentine so closely identified with love, romance and roses?
Although Valentine’s Day has its origins in third-century Rome – one legend claims that Valentine was a priest who secretly performed marriage ceremonies for soldiers and their brides during a time when soldiers were forbidden to marry – it was not until the eighteenth century that lovers started sending cards or notes to each other to mark the holiday. Flowers didn’t come into vogue until greenhouses allowed growers to force flowers to bloom in the dead of winter.
I found that tidbit in a new book by Amy Stewart, titled “Flower Confidential.” Here are some more Valentine-related revelations from the book:
During the two weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, 12 to 15 million stems of Latin American flowers will arrive each day at Miami International Airport
Almost a third of American adults will buy flowers or a plant for Valentine’s Day. Roughly half of those people will purchase roses, mainly red roses.
Over a third of orders will be placed on February 13, and another 22% are called in on the holiday itself.
Americans buy 180 million roses for Valentine’s Day, and the average arrangement of a dozen roses costs just over $70.00.
In 2007, Valentine’s Day falls on a Wednesday. Flower sales peak when the holiday lands in the middle of the week, averaging $30,000 per shop.
A typical wage on an Ecuadorian flower farm is about $150.00 per month. Wages represent less than four cents for every rose sold.
Rose developers may spend seven years or more developing a new variety for market. An Australian team has been working for over ten years on developing a blue rose, using a pigment gene from petunias.
“Flower Confidential” contains more than just information on roses and Valentine’s Day, with hundreds of little known facts on the global flower market and tips and techniques to get the most out of your cut flowers. It is scheduled for publication February 9, 2007 by Algonquin Books.
However, the rose is the flower that is top of mind with everyone at this time of year. A couple of weeks ago in this column, I told you about some roses that are favorites of Cheryl’s and mine.
Just to remind you, they are collectively known as “Knockout Roses,” with varieties such as Knockout Red, Knockout Pink and Knockout Rainbow. All are delightful plants and don’t require a lot of fussing. If you missed that column or would like to read it again, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance.”
So here’s an idea. This year, how about planting some Knockout rose bushes for your sweetheart? Unlike a $70.00 bouquet that might only last a few days, tell your sweetie that, just like you love, these shrubs will last for years, growing stronger and more beautiful with each passing season. Now who could resist that?
Okay, it might be wise to also buy a sappy card and something personal. Only you can decide if “something personal” is a box of candy or a diamond bracelet. But for years of beauty in your garden, it’s hard to beat the vista of a beautiful grouping of colorful, fragrant rose bushes.
May you have a “blooming happy” St. Valentine’s Day!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Welcome spring with winter garden fix-ups
At this time of year, with the Holidays a fading memory, optimistic gardeners are already beginning to emerge from their winter hibernation and look forward to the spring that is just around the corner.
In many parts of the country, the winter is proving to be milder than expected, but it’s definitely not over just yet. However, this is a perfect time to take care of all those little projects that seem to fill us with the realization that spring really is on the way.
Tool time
If you didn’t get around to prepping the lawn mower for winter, at least you can get it ready for spring! A thorough cleaning out of the accumulated dried-on gunk from the underside is a minimum. A new spark plug is a good idea, and call around to see if any of your local lawn mower service places are offering a pre-season deal on blade sharpening.
Transplant now
If you have mature or near-mature trees and shrubs that will need to be moved to a new location, now would be a good time to transplant them. At this time of the year, plants are still dormant and far less likely to experience trauma from being moved.
Fertilizer? Not yet!
Avoid the temptation to fertilize newly set out trees and shrubs just yet. Wait until they show the first signs of growth, and then only fertilize very lightly for the first year of growth,
Bag the bagworms
If you have any narrow-leaf evergreens such as Junipers, check them for bagworm pouches. The insect eggs spend the winter in those pouches only to emerge in the spring and begin chomping away on the foliage. If you find any bagworm pouches, remove them by hand, place them carefully in a paper bag and burn them.
Pre-emptive strike on weeds
In case you hadn’t noticed, it’s quite possible that weeds are already appearing and might already be going to seed. Take the time now to carefully remove weeds before their seeds can scatter and you will save a lot of backbreaking labor later on. As you pull out each of the little pests, tell yourself you are preventing hundreds or even thousands of weeds from invading your landscape in the months ahead.
Slug ‘em
Speaking of pests, be on the lookout for slugs as well as weeds. Slugs may be slow-moving, but they are highly prolific and left alone can produce hundreds of little slugettes that quickly produce even more.
Clip and trim
January and February are good months to prune back most deciduous trees and shrubs if they’ve gotten to look a little unruly over the past season. You can now prune flowering, fruit and shade trees. Be sure to use good, sharp shears for a clean cut. However, avoid pruning spring flowering plants such as forsythia as you’ll simply be removing their spring flowers.
Armchair gardening
Now is the perfect time to select shrubs and trees for spring planting. Research using library books or, more conveniently, sit at your computer and browse online. Use your imagination and get creative!
Get inspired
Yes, a little self-promotion here, but I think you’ll find it helpful. Drop me an e-mail and I’ll be happy to give you a subscription to my free weekly newsletter. It’s a good way to keep focused on your garden, and most weeks you’ll find Q&A’s or tips from other readers. Simply send an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and put “newsletter” in the subject line.
A final thought
If your old Christmas tree is still lying around somewhere, here’s a good use for it. Cut off some of the branches and carefully lay them across any tender or early-flowering plants to protect them from a sudden cold snap.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.or
In many parts of the country, the winter is proving to be milder than expected, but it’s definitely not over just yet. However, this is a perfect time to take care of all those little projects that seem to fill us with the realization that spring really is on the way.
Tool time
If you didn’t get around to prepping the lawn mower for winter, at least you can get it ready for spring! A thorough cleaning out of the accumulated dried-on gunk from the underside is a minimum. A new spark plug is a good idea, and call around to see if any of your local lawn mower service places are offering a pre-season deal on blade sharpening.
Transplant now
If you have mature or near-mature trees and shrubs that will need to be moved to a new location, now would be a good time to transplant them. At this time of the year, plants are still dormant and far less likely to experience trauma from being moved.
Fertilizer? Not yet!
Avoid the temptation to fertilize newly set out trees and shrubs just yet. Wait until they show the first signs of growth, and then only fertilize very lightly for the first year of growth,
Bag the bagworms
If you have any narrow-leaf evergreens such as Junipers, check them for bagworm pouches. The insect eggs spend the winter in those pouches only to emerge in the spring and begin chomping away on the foliage. If you find any bagworm pouches, remove them by hand, place them carefully in a paper bag and burn them.
Pre-emptive strike on weeds
In case you hadn’t noticed, it’s quite possible that weeds are already appearing and might already be going to seed. Take the time now to carefully remove weeds before their seeds can scatter and you will save a lot of backbreaking labor later on. As you pull out each of the little pests, tell yourself you are preventing hundreds or even thousands of weeds from invading your landscape in the months ahead.
Slug ‘em
Speaking of pests, be on the lookout for slugs as well as weeds. Slugs may be slow-moving, but they are highly prolific and left alone can produce hundreds of little slugettes that quickly produce even more.
Clip and trim
January and February are good months to prune back most deciduous trees and shrubs if they’ve gotten to look a little unruly over the past season. You can now prune flowering, fruit and shade trees. Be sure to use good, sharp shears for a clean cut. However, avoid pruning spring flowering plants such as forsythia as you’ll simply be removing their spring flowers.
Armchair gardening
Now is the perfect time to select shrubs and trees for spring planting. Research using library books or, more conveniently, sit at your computer and browse online. Use your imagination and get creative!
Get inspired
Yes, a little self-promotion here, but I think you’ll find it helpful. Drop me an e-mail and I’ll be happy to give you a subscription to my free weekly newsletter. It’s a good way to keep focused on your garden, and most weeks you’ll find Q&A’s or tips from other readers. Simply send an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and put “newsletter” in the subject line.
A final thought
If your old Christmas tree is still lying around somewhere, here’s a good use for it. Cut off some of the branches and carefully lay them across any tender or early-flowering plants to protect them from a sudden cold snap.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.or
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
Remove dead leaves to prevent mold on pachysandra ground cover
QUESTION: “I planted pachysandra two years ago under heavy shade trees. It is doing so-so. I now have a lot of leaves and I would like to clean up the area with a blower. Should I cover the plants with leaves for the winter or blow away the leaves? The plants are about 8 inches high.” – Sam C.
ANSWER: Although pachysandra is a ground cover that loves organic soil, I would still blow the leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs as well.
The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.
It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a mowing, using the mower’s highest setting, in early spring only. A good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.
My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to a previous column.
QUESTION: “I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!” – Laura F.
ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.
Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn't hurt even when leaves are on the plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the leaves.
Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: “I was reading your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once inside your home. HELP!” – Don
ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring to probably are not “real” ladybugs, but migrating beetle bugs that really become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe someone else will have a solution.
And someone did!
COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now, three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. – Cassandra N.
ANSWER: Although pachysandra is a ground cover that loves organic soil, I would still blow the leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs as well.
The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.
It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a mowing, using the mower’s highest setting, in early spring only. A good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.
My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to a previous column.
QUESTION: “I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!” – Laura F.
ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.
Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn't hurt even when leaves are on the plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the leaves.
Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: “I was reading your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once inside your home. HELP!” – Don
ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring to probably are not “real” ladybugs, but migrating beetle bugs that really become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe someone else will have a solution.
And someone did!
COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now, three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. – Cassandra N.
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance
Is this the year to add that rose garden to your landscape? Or would you like to see a colorful rose hedge softening the appearance of a backyard fence or bordering a driveway?
Perhaps you’ve been putting it off, believing that roses are tricky plants to grow and you’re not sure you’re up to the task. Yes, some roses have acquired a reputation for being finicky plants. But if you select the right varieties, you will find they are a lot less demanding than you think.
Cheryl and I particularly like the varieties collectively known as “Knockout Roses.” In fact, we have a Knockout rose hedge at our home that demands very little of our time and attention.
Rose, Knockout Red
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, disease-resistant, red shrub rose, this is probably the one you need. We’ve been amazed at its outstanding blooming capability. We’ve found that it will bloom from the early spring to the last frost in late fall. In 2004, it was designated the ARS Members Choice by the American Rose Society.
If you plant Knockout Red early in the season, you should see impressive repeat blooms the first year. In cooler weather, the blooms are a fluorescent fire-engine red, becoming a deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.
If you live in a humid area or tend to have fairly harsh, windy winters, you’ll find Knockout Red to be a hardy plant. Another benefit is that it is very resistant to the dreaded black spot and the tough leaves actually resist Japanese beetles.
Rose, Knockout Pink If you’d prefer a more delicate color, go for the Knockout Pink. Maturing into a neat 3’ x 3’ shrub, it sports bright pink blooms that stay throughout the growing season into late fall.
The petals fall cleanly so it doesn’t need deadheading. As with other Knockout varieties, the pink is disease-resistant, drought-tolerant and requires only 3 to 4 hours of sunlight a day.
Rose, Knockout Rainbow
The Rainbow is a fairly new addition to the Knockouts and is so named because it features lovely single blooms that change color as they mature. The blooms open orange from coral-pink buds, and then quickly turn soft coral-pink shading to gold at the base, surrounding a yellow center.
The blooms are about 2 inches wide and very colorful with a delightful scent of sweetbriar. It’s lovely to see a fully-blooming shrub, when the various colors of buds, new blooms, and mature flowers are present at once. When the blooms have passed, the shrub is covered with bright orange hips that will remain throughout the winter, attracting birds to your garden.
In addition to being an ideal choice for a hedge or driveway planting, Rainbow can add a ribbon of color to a perennial border or as a container plant.
Fairy Rose
While not a member of the Knockout Rose family, this one certainly deserves a mention. The Fairy has been around for a long time, 70 years or more, and can be seen at many of the country’s heritage gardens.
It produces delicate rosettes in clusters of pale pink from early spring until late frost. When the shrubs are spaced about 3 feet apart, they quickly mature into a solid 3 foot tall hedge of color in a sunny garden. Fairy would also be a nice focal point in a patio garden or as a colorful addition along a foundation.
You don’t have to be a dedicated rosarian to create a successful and colorful rose garden. Choose varieties, such as those I’ve described here, that are low-maintenance and disease resistant, and you can enjoy the sight and scent of roses all season with very little effort.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Perhaps you’ve been putting it off, believing that roses are tricky plants to grow and you’re not sure you’re up to the task. Yes, some roses have acquired a reputation for being finicky plants. But if you select the right varieties, you will find they are a lot less demanding than you think.
Cheryl and I particularly like the varieties collectively known as “Knockout Roses.” In fact, we have a Knockout rose hedge at our home that demands very little of our time and attention.
Rose, Knockout Red
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, disease-resistant, red shrub rose, this is probably the one you need. We’ve been amazed at its outstanding blooming capability. We’ve found that it will bloom from the early spring to the last frost in late fall. In 2004, it was designated the ARS Members Choice by the American Rose Society.
If you plant Knockout Red early in the season, you should see impressive repeat blooms the first year. In cooler weather, the blooms are a fluorescent fire-engine red, becoming a deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.
If you live in a humid area or tend to have fairly harsh, windy winters, you’ll find Knockout Red to be a hardy plant. Another benefit is that it is very resistant to the dreaded black spot and the tough leaves actually resist Japanese beetles.
Rose, Knockout Pink If you’d prefer a more delicate color, go for the Knockout Pink. Maturing into a neat 3’ x 3’ shrub, it sports bright pink blooms that stay throughout the growing season into late fall.
The petals fall cleanly so it doesn’t need deadheading. As with other Knockout varieties, the pink is disease-resistant, drought-tolerant and requires only 3 to 4 hours of sunlight a day.
Rose, Knockout Rainbow
The Rainbow is a fairly new addition to the Knockouts and is so named because it features lovely single blooms that change color as they mature. The blooms open orange from coral-pink buds, and then quickly turn soft coral-pink shading to gold at the base, surrounding a yellow center.
The blooms are about 2 inches wide and very colorful with a delightful scent of sweetbriar. It’s lovely to see a fully-blooming shrub, when the various colors of buds, new blooms, and mature flowers are present at once. When the blooms have passed, the shrub is covered with bright orange hips that will remain throughout the winter, attracting birds to your garden.
In addition to being an ideal choice for a hedge or driveway planting, Rainbow can add a ribbon of color to a perennial border or as a container plant.
Fairy Rose
While not a member of the Knockout Rose family, this one certainly deserves a mention. The Fairy has been around for a long time, 70 years or more, and can be seen at many of the country’s heritage gardens.
It produces delicate rosettes in clusters of pale pink from early spring until late frost. When the shrubs are spaced about 3 feet apart, they quickly mature into a solid 3 foot tall hedge of color in a sunny garden. Fairy would also be a nice focal point in a patio garden or as a colorful addition along a foundation.
You don’t have to be a dedicated rosarian to create a successful and colorful rose garden. Choose varieties, such as those I’ve described here, that are low-maintenance and disease resistant, and you can enjoy the sight and scent of roses all season with very little effort.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
It's a berry good time to select delicious fruiting plants
With the Holidays and the Winter Solstice behind us and the days slowly but surely growing longer as we head towards spring, we can start to enjoy mental images of gardens and landscapes alive with colors and aromas where now we see only bleak soil and dry branches!
Colors and aromas satisfy two of our senses – sight and smell. But why stop there when you can add taste to the sensual mix? Include small fruiting plants in your spring planting plans and you could soon, literally, be enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Here are a couple of suggestions that I hope will make your mouth water!
Blackberry Triple Crown Thornless
We recently discovered this relatively new blackberry and we quickly became enthusiasts. Yes, it really is thornless and that’s a big benefit to those of us whose hands and forearms seem to be magnets for little scratches when we work around our plants.
However, for us the “wow factor” came from the size of the fruit that this variety can produce, based on results achieved in agricultural testing. Triple Crown was tested extensively by agricultural research scientists before finally being offered to nurseries starting in 1996. Oregon State University trials found 8-year-old plants yielding 30 pounds or more of berries per plant.
The fruit is also suitable for juices, pies, syrups and preserves, according to puree trials by the Oregon testers. The name, by the way, doesn’t refer to horse racing. Rather it gets its name from its three crowning attributes: flavor, productivity and vigor.
Raspberry Anne Fall Gold
Anne Gold is a yellow-gold variety noted for its sweet flavor and great holding ability on the vine. It is described by horticulturists as ever-bearing: you’ll get a good crop around June and an even better crop in the fall. A nice benefit: Anne Fall stays firm and won’t turn to mush in your hands if you delay picking it for a day or two. Tests show that it resists powdery mildew, too. For correct pollination, plant Anne Gold close to some regular red raspberries.
Raspberries tolerates most soil types but prefers deep, well-drained, fertile soil. It is quite versatile and hardy in cold climates where other cane fruits tend to fail.
Blueberries
If you enjoy blueberries in fruit salads, muffins and pancakes, why not grow your own? To ensure good pollination, you need to plant at least two varieties, such as…
Sweetheart, a new variety of blueberry, suitable for USDA zones 4 to 8. This one ripens early with firm, nicely colored fruit that has a sweet taste. The bush itself can make an attractive and decorative hedge with its pink-tinged white spring flowers and vibrant yellow-gold fall foliage, in addition to the blue early to mid-summer fruit.
Blueray, a mid-season blueberry that is upright, productive and vigorous. We’ve found you can get about 20 pounds of fruit from a single plant over the course of a season, so you’d better have a really good muffin recipe. Blueray is considered a good pollinator for other highbush varieties.
Some of the fruiting plants I’ve described are quite new and might be tricky to track down. If you need some online shopping help, feel free to send me an e-mail.
Start planning now for many summers of delicious, home-grown fruit!
Colors and aromas satisfy two of our senses – sight and smell. But why stop there when you can add taste to the sensual mix? Include small fruiting plants in your spring planting plans and you could soon, literally, be enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Here are a couple of suggestions that I hope will make your mouth water!
Blackberry Triple Crown Thornless
We recently discovered this relatively new blackberry and we quickly became enthusiasts. Yes, it really is thornless and that’s a big benefit to those of us whose hands and forearms seem to be magnets for little scratches when we work around our plants.
However, for us the “wow factor” came from the size of the fruit that this variety can produce, based on results achieved in agricultural testing. Triple Crown was tested extensively by agricultural research scientists before finally being offered to nurseries starting in 1996. Oregon State University trials found 8-year-old plants yielding 30 pounds or more of berries per plant.
The fruit is also suitable for juices, pies, syrups and preserves, according to puree trials by the Oregon testers. The name, by the way, doesn’t refer to horse racing. Rather it gets its name from its three crowning attributes: flavor, productivity and vigor.
Raspberry Anne Fall Gold
Anne Gold is a yellow-gold variety noted for its sweet flavor and great holding ability on the vine. It is described by horticulturists as ever-bearing: you’ll get a good crop around June and an even better crop in the fall. A nice benefit: Anne Fall stays firm and won’t turn to mush in your hands if you delay picking it for a day or two. Tests show that it resists powdery mildew, too. For correct pollination, plant Anne Gold close to some regular red raspberries.
Raspberries tolerates most soil types but prefers deep, well-drained, fertile soil. It is quite versatile and hardy in cold climates where other cane fruits tend to fail.
Blueberries
If you enjoy blueberries in fruit salads, muffins and pancakes, why not grow your own? To ensure good pollination, you need to plant at least two varieties, such as…
Sweetheart, a new variety of blueberry, suitable for USDA zones 4 to 8. This one ripens early with firm, nicely colored fruit that has a sweet taste. The bush itself can make an attractive and decorative hedge with its pink-tinged white spring flowers and vibrant yellow-gold fall foliage, in addition to the blue early to mid-summer fruit.
Blueray, a mid-season blueberry that is upright, productive and vigorous. We’ve found you can get about 20 pounds of fruit from a single plant over the course of a season, so you’d better have a really good muffin recipe. Blueray is considered a good pollinator for other highbush varieties.
Some of the fruiting plants I’ve described are quite new and might be tricky to track down. If you need some online shopping help, feel free to send me an e-mail.
Start planning now for many summers of delicious, home-grown fruit!
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Five resolutions to make your garden bloom in 2007
The New Year is upon us! With all that pre-Holiday hustle and bustle finally behind us and spring not yet on the horizon, it's a good time for all of us gardeners and landscapers to draw up our annual list of New Year's Resolutions.
No, not the ones about low-carb diets and going to the gym and learning another language. All highly admirable. But I'm referring to some specific garden-goals you can set yourself.
I'm guessing there is at least one project you've been promising you'll take care of when you get around to it.. So here is where we'll begin...
Resolution # 1: A Round Tuit You said you'd do it when you got around to it, so I am hereby giving you a Round Tuit. Now you have no more excuses! Whatever it was... re-staining that fence, pulling out those overgrown brambles, replacing the rickety trellis that's barely holding your Purple Wintercreeper vine... Resolve to really DO IT this year! Set yourself a "complete by" date and stick to it.
Resolution # 2: Plant a tree The world can always benefit from another tree. Take a look out of your window and visualize a new tree gracing your landscape. What's your choice? A leafy shade tree such as a Red Maple, a Tulip Poplar or a Chinese Chestnut are good suggestions. Or maybe you prefer an evergreen such as the fast-growing Cedar Green Giant or the Colorado Blue Spruce. How about a nut tree? Think about the elegant Black Walnut or the Chinese Chestnut that will produce delicious nuts for future Holiday recipes!
Resolution # 3: Get involved! Lend your green thumb (with you still attached of course) to a landscape project somewhere in your area. There are groups of concerned citizens in urban, suburban and rural locations throughout America who "adopt" a blighted area and give it a facelift. Often, it involves little more than clearing away overgrown weeds and dumped garbage. Sometimes the plan calls for planting shrubs and trees to create a pleasant "green space." If you don't know of such a group, a good place to start might be at your local newspaper. Editors usually have their fingers on the pulse of the community and might be able to point you in the right direction.
Resolution # 4: Involve the kids Can you remember who it was who first aroused your interest in plants and how things grow? Now's your chance to "pass it on" to your own children or grandchildren. Remember, it has to be fun and not a chore, so kids need to be doing more than simply weeding or raking leaves! Here's an idea: set aside an area in your landscape and give it to your child for his or her very own garden. With your guidance and mentoring, they can choose what to plant and learn how to care for their own flowers, shrubs and trees as they grow. I guarantee that many years from now, they'll return to "their" garden and say, "I grew that!"
Resolution # 5: Contact The Plant Man! That's right: involve me in your projects. Send me an e-mail and tell me about your successes, pass on hints and tips for fellow readers or ask my advice about a problem your having with your landscape. I can usually respond personally within a day or two, and many of the comments and questions I receive are also published in this column.
No doubt you can add a few resolutions of your own. But the trick is to decide on just one or two and simply resolve to follow through and actually achieve them by this time next year. And now I guess I'd better get started on my own list of resolutions...!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
No, not the ones about low-carb diets and going to the gym and learning another language. All highly admirable. But I'm referring to some specific garden-goals you can set yourself.
I'm guessing there is at least one project you've been promising you'll take care of when you get around to it.. So here is where we'll begin...
Resolution # 1: A Round Tuit You said you'd do it when you got around to it, so I am hereby giving you a Round Tuit. Now you have no more excuses! Whatever it was... re-staining that fence, pulling out those overgrown brambles, replacing the rickety trellis that's barely holding your Purple Wintercreeper vine... Resolve to really DO IT this year! Set yourself a "complete by" date and stick to it.
Resolution # 2: Plant a tree The world can always benefit from another tree. Take a look out of your window and visualize a new tree gracing your landscape. What's your choice? A leafy shade tree such as a Red Maple, a Tulip Poplar or a Chinese Chestnut are good suggestions. Or maybe you prefer an evergreen such as the fast-growing Cedar Green Giant or the Colorado Blue Spruce. How about a nut tree? Think about the elegant Black Walnut or the Chinese Chestnut that will produce delicious nuts for future Holiday recipes!
Resolution # 3: Get involved! Lend your green thumb (with you still attached of course) to a landscape project somewhere in your area. There are groups of concerned citizens in urban, suburban and rural locations throughout America who "adopt" a blighted area and give it a facelift. Often, it involves little more than clearing away overgrown weeds and dumped garbage. Sometimes the plan calls for planting shrubs and trees to create a pleasant "green space." If you don't know of such a group, a good place to start might be at your local newspaper. Editors usually have their fingers on the pulse of the community and might be able to point you in the right direction.
Resolution # 4: Involve the kids Can you remember who it was who first aroused your interest in plants and how things grow? Now's your chance to "pass it on" to your own children or grandchildren. Remember, it has to be fun and not a chore, so kids need to be doing more than simply weeding or raking leaves! Here's an idea: set aside an area in your landscape and give it to your child for his or her very own garden. With your guidance and mentoring, they can choose what to plant and learn how to care for their own flowers, shrubs and trees as they grow. I guarantee that many years from now, they'll return to "their" garden and say, "I grew that!"
Resolution # 5: Contact The Plant Man! That's right: involve me in your projects. Send me an e-mail and tell me about your successes, pass on hints and tips for fellow readers or ask my advice about a problem your having with your landscape. I can usually respond personally within a day or two, and many of the comments and questions I receive are also published in this column.
No doubt you can add a few resolutions of your own. But the trick is to decide on just one or two and simply resolve to follow through and actually achieve them by this time next year. And now I guess I'd better get started on my own list of resolutions...!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Create seasonal cheer with living window boxes
Time to answer more questions from the e-mail bag… and a tip from a reader who kept deer from munching on his trees.
QUESTION: “I have east facing window boxes that are an eye-sore during the winter. Would English Ivy be suitable for planting now? I live in zone 8 or 9. Everyone here plants pansies during the winter (an abomination to this former New Englander) but I just can't. I'd be very happy with green drapes. Please let me know if this is feasible. I'd really like to have something in the boxes. Thanks so much.” – Nancy Young
ANSWER: You can create some really interesting window boxes this time of year. The holidays are almost upon us, so you can decorate them with pine, cedar and boxwood branches and magnolia leaves adding in some poinsettias, holly, nandina and ribbon for splashes of color just as you would create arrangements inside for the holidays.
For true living window boxes, you can plant young junipers, arborvitae, pines, boxwood, holly, small mums, ornamental cabbage, rosemary, creeping thyme, pachysandra, small cool season ornamental grasses, ferns, heucheras plum pudding, and miniature roses (as well as ivy) at this time.
You should be able to get some ideas from your grocery store (some of the larger chains that have a plant dept). Usually this time of year you can find rosemary trees and other fun versions of plants to decorate your boxes.
For pictures and ideas of window boxes and containers, drop an e-mail to Cheryl at cheryl@landsteward.org and put "Boxes" in the subject line.
QUESTION: “I loved your article on planting Black Walnut seeds. My question to you is this: I have an old bag of Hickory seeds, I don't know how old, but a few years. My friend gave them to me as he knows of my fondness for Hickory trees, and I wanted to plant the seeds around my property. He gave them to me when I was discussing your article the Walnut seeds. He had tons stored in his garage. Can I still plant them, and will they grow? Or should I just throw them to the squirrels?
“Also, a few years ago, I planted some Yoshino and Kwanzan trees. I noticed that the ones I wrapped with two inch masking tape for the last two winters, from the ground up, kept the Deer away from the bark! (I guess they can't smell the bark? That's all I could get, and it was cheap!) By spring the masking tape just fell off with ease. It flaked off like two inch dandruff pieces from the cold weather, I guess. It was an easy clean up, but best of all, it kept the pesky deer and rabbits off of my trees.” -- Phil Downey
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that the hickory nuts will probably not germinate, unless they have been kept at a good moisture content. However, if you do plant them cover them with soil about 1 ½ times the diameter of the seed. You will know soon enough in spring if they have germinated successfully! Thanks for the masking tape idea. I’ll pass it on to our readers.
QUESTION: “I have a 5 year old tree peony from China that has never bloomed. I fed it but nothing happened. It was supposed to have big blue flowers. Nevertheless, it just grows. So what I did 3 weeks ago, I chopped it down to 3 inches above the ground. Can you please tell me, will it grow back up or did I kill it?” – L. Salgado
ANSWER: Tree peonies once cut down, don’t generally come back. They are peonies that are grafted onto other root stock. They are usually easy to grow, but there is also a list of things that can cause problems, including late freezes, planting too deep, inadequate sunlight, too much nitrogen, over watering or over fertilizing.
Bone meal and compost is the food of choice for these plants. Tree and regular peonies often have problems blooming in warmer areas (especially zones 8 and 9) where the weather doesn’t provide enough chill time for them to regenerate.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I have east facing window boxes that are an eye-sore during the winter. Would English Ivy be suitable for planting now? I live in zone 8 or 9. Everyone here plants pansies during the winter (an abomination to this former New Englander) but I just can't. I'd be very happy with green drapes. Please let me know if this is feasible. I'd really like to have something in the boxes. Thanks so much.” – Nancy Young
ANSWER: You can create some really interesting window boxes this time of year. The holidays are almost upon us, so you can decorate them with pine, cedar and boxwood branches and magnolia leaves adding in some poinsettias, holly, nandina and ribbon for splashes of color just as you would create arrangements inside for the holidays.
For true living window boxes, you can plant young junipers, arborvitae, pines, boxwood, holly, small mums, ornamental cabbage, rosemary, creeping thyme, pachysandra, small cool season ornamental grasses, ferns, heucheras plum pudding, and miniature roses (as well as ivy) at this time.
You should be able to get some ideas from your grocery store (some of the larger chains that have a plant dept). Usually this time of year you can find rosemary trees and other fun versions of plants to decorate your boxes.
For pictures and ideas of window boxes and containers, drop an e-mail to Cheryl at cheryl@landsteward.org and put "Boxes" in the subject line.
QUESTION: “I loved your article on planting Black Walnut seeds. My question to you is this: I have an old bag of Hickory seeds, I don't know how old, but a few years. My friend gave them to me as he knows of my fondness for Hickory trees, and I wanted to plant the seeds around my property. He gave them to me when I was discussing your article the Walnut seeds. He had tons stored in his garage. Can I still plant them, and will they grow? Or should I just throw them to the squirrels?
“Also, a few years ago, I planted some Yoshino and Kwanzan trees. I noticed that the ones I wrapped with two inch masking tape for the last two winters, from the ground up, kept the Deer away from the bark! (I guess they can't smell the bark? That's all I could get, and it was cheap!) By spring the masking tape just fell off with ease. It flaked off like two inch dandruff pieces from the cold weather, I guess. It was an easy clean up, but best of all, it kept the pesky deer and rabbits off of my trees.” -- Phil Downey
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that the hickory nuts will probably not germinate, unless they have been kept at a good moisture content. However, if you do plant them cover them with soil about 1 ½ times the diameter of the seed. You will know soon enough in spring if they have germinated successfully! Thanks for the masking tape idea. I’ll pass it on to our readers.
QUESTION: “I have a 5 year old tree peony from China that has never bloomed. I fed it but nothing happened. It was supposed to have big blue flowers. Nevertheless, it just grows. So what I did 3 weeks ago, I chopped it down to 3 inches above the ground. Can you please tell me, will it grow back up or did I kill it?” – L. Salgado
ANSWER: Tree peonies once cut down, don’t generally come back. They are peonies that are grafted onto other root stock. They are usually easy to grow, but there is also a list of things that can cause problems, including late freezes, planting too deep, inadequate sunlight, too much nitrogen, over watering or over fertilizing.
Bone meal and compost is the food of choice for these plants. Tree and regular peonies often have problems blooming in warmer areas (especially zones 8 and 9) where the weather doesn’t provide enough chill time for them to regenerate.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
December: good time to transplant trees and shrubs
December is upon us. Our year in the garden is winding down as the temperature drops. But for landscape lovers, there are visions of more than just sugar plums dancing in our heads.
Plant trees and shrubs
If you’ve been promising yourself (and your spouse, I’m guessing) that you really, really will get around to that landscaping project you’ve been discussing, don’t put it off until next spring. This is a very good time to plant trees and shrubs, depending on where you live. This currently applies to growing zones 7 - 10 Because they are in their dormant period, trees and shrubs are less likely to suffer “transplantation shock” at this time of year.
Preparing the site is the most important part of this project. As a general rule, you need to dig a hole about twice the size of the root system of the plant that you are planting or transplanting. If you have your own compost, add a generous amount to the bottom and sides of the hole.
If you are transplanting a tree from another location, it is important to set it in the hole as close as possible to the same level as it was in its previous home. Be sure the transplanted tree is sealed in well with water without flooding. You can “stake” larger or taller trees if there is a possibility they could be uprooted by strong winds or winter storms between now and next spring.
There is an excellent online resource with specific tips and instructions on transplanting just about tree and plant you can imagine. Go to http://www.humeseeds.com/qa_ndx2.htm#tran and scroll down to “Transplanting.” You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with a lot of other useful resources.
O Tannenbaum
On the subject of trees, if you’re planning on buying a “live” (as opposed to artificial) Christmas tree, consider buying a REAL live one, complete with roots, that you can plant as part of your landscape after the Holidays.
A few tips: Buy a tree that is balled in burlap and keep it balled while in the house. Keep it in the house for as short a time as possible. Keep it moist but not really wet. If possible, choose the outdoor location and dig the hole before you bring the tree indoors, because the ground might be frozen too hard for easy digging later!
Keep the soil in a wheelbarrow in a shed or garage so it will be easy to handle at planting time. If the ball was bound with nylon twine, remove it before planting. If the root ball is in a wire basket, it is okay to leave it on when you plant it as the roots will find their way out.
Feed the lawn
If you’re going to fertilize your lawn, the first two weeks of December are a good time to do it. This is because fertilizing at the onset of winter supports and improves root strength while your lawn slowly continues to grow through its semi-dormant period. Look for a slow release 3-1-2 formula, and use about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cool season grasses would need light follow-up doses 2 to 4 times over the year; warm season grasses perhaps 3 to 6 applications.
If you do decide to fertilize the lawn, be sure to rake away any remaining fallen leaves or other debris before you start.
Compost time
Add those (shredded) leaves to your compost pile, being sure to turn them from time to time to prevent mold forming. If you are not already the proud owner of a composting system, December is a good time to start. By next spring, you’ll have some valuable compost for your spring planting.
Essentially, compost is the broken-down residue of assorted organic material that has been worked over by worms and microscopic organisms. By the time they’ve finished with it, you have a rich, loamy brown substance that looks nothing like its original components.
You can simply start a “pile” in an out-of-the-way location or construct something a bit more permanent. I wrote a column that details some simple and effective ways to start and maintain a compost system. You can find it at http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/33712
Most of all, enjoy your December landscape!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Plant trees and shrubs
If you’ve been promising yourself (and your spouse, I’m guessing) that you really, really will get around to that landscaping project you’ve been discussing, don’t put it off until next spring. This is a very good time to plant trees and shrubs, depending on where you live. This currently applies to growing zones 7 - 10 Because they are in their dormant period, trees and shrubs are less likely to suffer “transplantation shock” at this time of year.
Preparing the site is the most important part of this project. As a general rule, you need to dig a hole about twice the size of the root system of the plant that you are planting or transplanting. If you have your own compost, add a generous amount to the bottom and sides of the hole.
If you are transplanting a tree from another location, it is important to set it in the hole as close as possible to the same level as it was in its previous home. Be sure the transplanted tree is sealed in well with water without flooding. You can “stake” larger or taller trees if there is a possibility they could be uprooted by strong winds or winter storms between now and next spring.
There is an excellent online resource with specific tips and instructions on transplanting just about tree and plant you can imagine. Go to http://www.humeseeds.com/qa_ndx2.htm#tran and scroll down to “Transplanting.” You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with a lot of other useful resources.
O Tannenbaum
On the subject of trees, if you’re planning on buying a “live” (as opposed to artificial) Christmas tree, consider buying a REAL live one, complete with roots, that you can plant as part of your landscape after the Holidays.
A few tips: Buy a tree that is balled in burlap and keep it balled while in the house. Keep it in the house for as short a time as possible. Keep it moist but not really wet. If possible, choose the outdoor location and dig the hole before you bring the tree indoors, because the ground might be frozen too hard for easy digging later!
Keep the soil in a wheelbarrow in a shed or garage so it will be easy to handle at planting time. If the ball was bound with nylon twine, remove it before planting. If the root ball is in a wire basket, it is okay to leave it on when you plant it as the roots will find their way out.
Feed the lawn
If you’re going to fertilize your lawn, the first two weeks of December are a good time to do it. This is because fertilizing at the onset of winter supports and improves root strength while your lawn slowly continues to grow through its semi-dormant period. Look for a slow release 3-1-2 formula, and use about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cool season grasses would need light follow-up doses 2 to 4 times over the year; warm season grasses perhaps 3 to 6 applications.
If you do decide to fertilize the lawn, be sure to rake away any remaining fallen leaves or other debris before you start.
Compost time
Add those (shredded) leaves to your compost pile, being sure to turn them from time to time to prevent mold forming. If you are not already the proud owner of a composting system, December is a good time to start. By next spring, you’ll have some valuable compost for your spring planting.
Essentially, compost is the broken-down residue of assorted organic material that has been worked over by worms and microscopic organisms. By the time they’ve finished with it, you have a rich, loamy brown substance that looks nothing like its original components.
You can simply start a “pile” in an out-of-the-way location or construct something a bit more permanent. I wrote a column that details some simple and effective ways to start and maintain a compost system. You can find it at http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/33712
Most of all, enjoy your December landscape!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Daylilies: Mow them down or dig up and divide
QUESTION: “Are you supposed to mow down daylilies and [ornamental] grasses? If so, should it be done in the fall or in the spring? I planted blue fescue last year and have not mown down at all yet. I also planted new grass this spring but I don't remember the name. I have several daylilies and some are quite old. I have never mowed them.” – Pat Nalty
ANSWER: With regard to the daylilies, you can mow them down anytime now, if you wish. An alternative would be to dig them up, divide them and then replant them to increase the coverage. Doing this now would give them a chance to settle in to their new environment during the winter.
When it comes to grasses, annual grooming is all that is needed, usually at the end of winter as the new grass is beginning to emerge.
QUESTION: “I recently planted 25 Old Fashioned Lilacs to enhance an existing hedge after professional removal of some invasive buckthorn. The lilacs are struggling despite watering, fertilizing when planting, etc. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth than just a few leaves at the top of each stem and revive the 6 stems that sprouted a few leaves initially and now are bare?
“We had unusually hot weather for many weeks which may have been a factor. I’d appreciate any suggestions you may have.” – Lois Engstrom
ANSWER: The hot weather could indeed be a factor. There is another possibility. If the buckthorn were very close to the lilac when they were removed, the lilac could have gone into shock. You might want to put bone meal around the roots of the lilac to help regenerate a better root system for the following spring.
Now, here’s a comment from a reader concerning an answer I gave recently concerning ways to deter snakes. The original question concerned ways to keep snakes away from a camp site and I suggested moth balls.
COMMENT: “I look forward to reading your articles each week, but was a bit unsettled by an answer you gave concerning snakes.
“Moth balls are not the best solution to deter snakes from an area. The snakes are attracted to the area because of the habitat and what it provides for them. They are either finding shelter or food and the best way to deter them is eliminating these things. By eliminating brush piles or dense under story plantings the snakes and their food sources will not have shelter.
“Moth balls do deter many creatures, but they also poison things unnecessarily. Mammals are deterred more often then amphibians (highly sensitive to chemicals) and reptiles.
“I'm not against the use of chemicals, but using them unnecessarily with ill effects on other creatures, including us, sometimes is not necessary.” – Michelle Migliore
ANSWER: You are correct in your answer and the solution you describe is certainly a bit more humane and environmentally responsible! I will pass this along to other readers.
QUESTION: “We are starting to build on our lake lot that is mostly wooded. When we go in to fill in the lower areas, how much soil can we add around trees without damaging the tree? Does it depend on the type of tree? We have oak, basswood and iron wood.” – Bill Schroers
ANSWER: In my experience, if you put soil at the base of the tree to a depth of more than a couple of inches you risk killing them.
A better idea if you need to raise the level of the ground is to build wells around the trees extending 3 to 4 foot from the trunk and them add your fill dirt outside the wells. You might want to get a local tree expert to look at them before you start.
Remember the roots of a tree extend out towards the drip line, perhaps 20 feet or more and a tree gets most of its water and nourishment from the top 12 inch layer of soil. If you cover that up it can produce dire consequences.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: With regard to the daylilies, you can mow them down anytime now, if you wish. An alternative would be to dig them up, divide them and then replant them to increase the coverage. Doing this now would give them a chance to settle in to their new environment during the winter.
When it comes to grasses, annual grooming is all that is needed, usually at the end of winter as the new grass is beginning to emerge.
QUESTION: “I recently planted 25 Old Fashioned Lilacs to enhance an existing hedge after professional removal of some invasive buckthorn. The lilacs are struggling despite watering, fertilizing when planting, etc. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth than just a few leaves at the top of each stem and revive the 6 stems that sprouted a few leaves initially and now are bare?
“We had unusually hot weather for many weeks which may have been a factor. I’d appreciate any suggestions you may have.” – Lois Engstrom
ANSWER: The hot weather could indeed be a factor. There is another possibility. If the buckthorn were very close to the lilac when they were removed, the lilac could have gone into shock. You might want to put bone meal around the roots of the lilac to help regenerate a better root system for the following spring.
Now, here’s a comment from a reader concerning an answer I gave recently concerning ways to deter snakes. The original question concerned ways to keep snakes away from a camp site and I suggested moth balls.
COMMENT: “I look forward to reading your articles each week, but was a bit unsettled by an answer you gave concerning snakes.
“Moth balls are not the best solution to deter snakes from an area. The snakes are attracted to the area because of the habitat and what it provides for them. They are either finding shelter or food and the best way to deter them is eliminating these things. By eliminating brush piles or dense under story plantings the snakes and their food sources will not have shelter.
“Moth balls do deter many creatures, but they also poison things unnecessarily. Mammals are deterred more often then amphibians (highly sensitive to chemicals) and reptiles.
“I'm not against the use of chemicals, but using them unnecessarily with ill effects on other creatures, including us, sometimes is not necessary.” – Michelle Migliore
ANSWER: You are correct in your answer and the solution you describe is certainly a bit more humane and environmentally responsible! I will pass this along to other readers.
QUESTION: “We are starting to build on our lake lot that is mostly wooded. When we go in to fill in the lower areas, how much soil can we add around trees without damaging the tree? Does it depend on the type of tree? We have oak, basswood and iron wood.” – Bill Schroers
ANSWER: In my experience, if you put soil at the base of the tree to a depth of more than a couple of inches you risk killing them.
A better idea if you need to raise the level of the ground is to build wells around the trees extending 3 to 4 foot from the trunk and them add your fill dirt outside the wells. You might want to get a local tree expert to look at them before you start.
Remember the roots of a tree extend out towards the drip line, perhaps 20 feet or more and a tree gets most of its water and nourishment from the top 12 inch layer of soil. If you cover that up it can produce dire consequences.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, November 17, 2006
More must-have Web links for garden problem solving!
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a column that listed some helpful Web sites, hosted by the USDA, for gardeners and landscapers. A number of readers have contacted me and asked if I know of any more Internet resources. You bet I do!
Here are a few more Web sites that are definitely worth bookmarking so you can refer to them when you are suddenly faced with a specific question or problem. And as always, I’m happy to try and help you personally if you send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
Many of these sites have long and complex Web addresses. When you’ve finished reading here, you might find it easier to go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man header where you can simply click on hot links to every site mentioned here.
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/1plants.htm#prsuy
If you’re looking for a fancy Website with a lot of flash and bling, this isn’t it. But if you need to investigate just about any plant you can imagine, this is an excellent no-frills database. For example, go to the very first listing (Abelia) and you’ll find a concise description and a bunch of links to close-up photographs with titles such as plant habit, leaves, flowering branches, etc, etc.
In fact the data base is so large that it spreads across three Web sites. The link above is to part one (plants A through E) with the other two sites covering the rest of the alphabet.
http://magazine.audubon.org/backyard/backyard0309.html#raingarden
Have you ever wondered how you could save water, reduce pollution and help wildlife all at the same time? The author of this Audubon article figured out that 24,000 gallons of rain water cascades off her roof every year, and she decided to create her own mini-wetland; what she describes as a rain garden.
The site describes how to channel roof run-off to create your own rain garden, and includes suggested plants for each geographic region of the USA.
http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/blueberry.htm
If you can think of it, however specific, there’s probably at least one Web site devoted to it! For everything you could ever possibly want to know about blueberries, this site hosted by Oregon State University is the “go-to” resource.
You’ll find scores of articles on every aspect of successful blueberry plant growing, from site selection and mulching to propagation, pollination and harvesting. Plenty of related topic links, too.
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=66
Grownative.org. The name pretty much tells you what this site is all about. Here you’ll find guides that help you put native plants to work in your landscape. Although focused mainly on Missouri, this is a helpful resource for anyone interested in developing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm
If you enjoy cooking, then you know that nothing beats using your own home-grown herbs, snipped fresh from your own garden. Here, you’ll find an exhaustive guide to selecting, planting, growing and harvesting herbs.
There’s also a description with line drawings of hundreds of herbs, both popular and obscure with specific instruction for successfully growing and using each of them. Bon appetit!
http://www.lawncare.com/
If your lawn is more weed than grass, or if you just want to browse ideas and expert advice on how to keep your lawn lush and green, this is a site you’ll want take a look at. A nice feature: click on the “What to do now” button, type in your zip code and get tips on lawn care in your specific area updated for each season.
If you’d like to receive an e-mailed copy of my wife Cheryl’s personal “link library” filled with links to many more helpful Web sites, simply drop me an e-mail request and we’ll forward it to you.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Here are a few more Web sites that are definitely worth bookmarking so you can refer to them when you are suddenly faced with a specific question or problem. And as always, I’m happy to try and help you personally if you send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org
Many of these sites have long and complex Web addresses. When you’ve finished reading here, you might find it easier to go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man header where you can simply click on hot links to every site mentioned here.
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/1plants.htm#prsuy
If you’re looking for a fancy Website with a lot of flash and bling, this isn’t it. But if you need to investigate just about any plant you can imagine, this is an excellent no-frills database. For example, go to the very first listing (Abelia) and you’ll find a concise description and a bunch of links to close-up photographs with titles such as plant habit, leaves, flowering branches, etc, etc.
In fact the data base is so large that it spreads across three Web sites. The link above is to part one (plants A through E) with the other two sites covering the rest of the alphabet.
http://magazine.audubon.org/backyard/backyard0309.html#raingarden
Have you ever wondered how you could save water, reduce pollution and help wildlife all at the same time? The author of this Audubon article figured out that 24,000 gallons of rain water cascades off her roof every year, and she decided to create her own mini-wetland; what she describes as a rain garden.
The site describes how to channel roof run-off to create your own rain garden, and includes suggested plants for each geographic region of the USA.
http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/blueberry.htm
If you can think of it, however specific, there’s probably at least one Web site devoted to it! For everything you could ever possibly want to know about blueberries, this site hosted by Oregon State University is the “go-to” resource.
You’ll find scores of articles on every aspect of successful blueberry plant growing, from site selection and mulching to propagation, pollination and harvesting. Plenty of related topic links, too.
http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=66
Grownative.org. The name pretty much tells you what this site is all about. Here you’ll find guides that help you put native plants to work in your landscape. Although focused mainly on Missouri, this is a helpful resource for anyone interested in developing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm
If you enjoy cooking, then you know that nothing beats using your own home-grown herbs, snipped fresh from your own garden. Here, you’ll find an exhaustive guide to selecting, planting, growing and harvesting herbs.
There’s also a description with line drawings of hundreds of herbs, both popular and obscure with specific instruction for successfully growing and using each of them. Bon appetit!
http://www.lawncare.com/
If your lawn is more weed than grass, or if you just want to browse ideas and expert advice on how to keep your lawn lush and green, this is a site you’ll want take a look at. A nice feature: click on the “What to do now” button, type in your zip code and get tips on lawn care in your specific area updated for each season.
If you’d like to receive an e-mailed copy of my wife Cheryl’s personal “link library” filled with links to many more helpful Web sites, simply drop me an e-mail request and we’ll forward it to you.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
The November garden: some timely tips from readers
This is a second chance to read one of the most-read columns, archived at www.landsteward.org
The days are getting shorter, the clocks have been turned and spring is not far away. At least that’s the way it is for all of us optimistic landscapers and gardeners. We just have to get through winter first!
So, as fall turns to winter, let’s take a quick look at some of our last “outdoor activities.” Some of these are mine and some are suggestions and ideas from readers of this column. Remember, your comments and questions are always welcome and can be very helpful to your fellow readers. Contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to get a personal response back right away.
Here’s a tip from a reader who simply signed him (or her) self as Gerry, who picked up this idea while surfing the ‘Net.
Too wet to mow?
Gerry says that if you need to give the lawn one last mow, but the grass is wet from a recent rainfall, don’t give up too soon! Get a length of rope or garden hose and stretch it across one end of the lawn. (It would help to have someone hold the other end.) Simply drag the hose or rope across the lawn to displace the water droplets that will sprinkle down to the soil below. Wait a few minutes (maybe a quarter hour) and the blades of grass should be dry enough for you to mow successfully.
A river runs through it...
A river – or even a small stream – can make a mess of your basement. Right now would be a good time to check the grading around your home’s foundation to make sure it drains away from the house.
Check the grading every now and then during the winter because snow or heavy rainfall can erode soil or cause it to settle (particularly in flower beds close to the foundation). Water can then build up in these indentations and is likely to seep through to your basement or crawl space. Refilling or regrading these depressions will direct water runoff away from your home’s foundation.
Fruit tree clean-up
If you have fruit trees as part of your landscape, take a few minutes to remove any debris that you might find under and around them. Look for twigs and leaves, as well as the last remaining fallen fruit (particularly under late-fruiting trees) which should not be left to rot on the ground.
Insects and diseases can spend the winter months snoozing in the debris and emerge in the spring to attack your fruit trees. Remove these potential “bug motels” now and your fruit trees could have a healthier head start next year.
The “Deadwood Stage”
Winter storms can cause serious damage to age-weakened trees... and they, in turn, can cause VERY serious damage to your home! A lightning strike or a heavy coating of ice can easily snap off a dead or dying tree limb weighing a ton or more. And that can make a big hole in your roof.
Unless the suspect limbs are easily accessible, this is a job for a reputable tree surgeon who can tell you which branches need to be removed and which could be trimmed back or “strapped” to give them extra support. A sleigh on the roof on Christmas morning is one thing; a huge tree branch poking through your bedroom ceiling is not so much fun!
“Doctor, it’s time for the transplant!”
Shrubs, plants and trees are entering their dormant cycle right about now, so if you need to move one to a new location, this is the right time. First, pick your new location and dig a hole big enough to comfortably hold the root ball.
Then carefully dig out the root ball, being sure to retain as much of the root system as you can. Before the root ball can dry out, place it in the prepared hole, adding back some of the soil, along with some compost, peat moss or manure. You can also add some fertilizer specifically developed to encourage growth in transplants. Tall plants might need staking until their roots take hold.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The days are getting shorter, the clocks have been turned and spring is not far away. At least that’s the way it is for all of us optimistic landscapers and gardeners. We just have to get through winter first!
So, as fall turns to winter, let’s take a quick look at some of our last “outdoor activities.” Some of these are mine and some are suggestions and ideas from readers of this column. Remember, your comments and questions are always welcome and can be very helpful to your fellow readers. Contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to get a personal response back right away.
Here’s a tip from a reader who simply signed him (or her) self as Gerry, who picked up this idea while surfing the ‘Net.
Too wet to mow?
Gerry says that if you need to give the lawn one last mow, but the grass is wet from a recent rainfall, don’t give up too soon! Get a length of rope or garden hose and stretch it across one end of the lawn. (It would help to have someone hold the other end.) Simply drag the hose or rope across the lawn to displace the water droplets that will sprinkle down to the soil below. Wait a few minutes (maybe a quarter hour) and the blades of grass should be dry enough for you to mow successfully.
A river runs through it...
A river – or even a small stream – can make a mess of your basement. Right now would be a good time to check the grading around your home’s foundation to make sure it drains away from the house.
Check the grading every now and then during the winter because snow or heavy rainfall can erode soil or cause it to settle (particularly in flower beds close to the foundation). Water can then build up in these indentations and is likely to seep through to your basement or crawl space. Refilling or regrading these depressions will direct water runoff away from your home’s foundation.
Fruit tree clean-up
If you have fruit trees as part of your landscape, take a few minutes to remove any debris that you might find under and around them. Look for twigs and leaves, as well as the last remaining fallen fruit (particularly under late-fruiting trees) which should not be left to rot on the ground.
Insects and diseases can spend the winter months snoozing in the debris and emerge in the spring to attack your fruit trees. Remove these potential “bug motels” now and your fruit trees could have a healthier head start next year.
The “Deadwood Stage”
Winter storms can cause serious damage to age-weakened trees... and they, in turn, can cause VERY serious damage to your home! A lightning strike or a heavy coating of ice can easily snap off a dead or dying tree limb weighing a ton or more. And that can make a big hole in your roof.
Unless the suspect limbs are easily accessible, this is a job for a reputable tree surgeon who can tell you which branches need to be removed and which could be trimmed back or “strapped” to give them extra support. A sleigh on the roof on Christmas morning is one thing; a huge tree branch poking through your bedroom ceiling is not so much fun!
“Doctor, it’s time for the transplant!”
Shrubs, plants and trees are entering their dormant cycle right about now, so if you need to move one to a new location, this is the right time. First, pick your new location and dig a hole big enough to comfortably hold the root ball.
Then carefully dig out the root ball, being sure to retain as much of the root system as you can. Before the root ball can dry out, place it in the prepared hole, adding back some of the soil, along with some compost, peat moss or manure. You can also add some fertilizer specifically developed to encourage growth in transplants. Tall plants might need staking until their roots take hold.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
These Web sites help solve tree and shrub problems
For gardeners, landscapers and horticulturists, the Internet has proved to be a boon we couldn’t have imagined a few years ago. For us it’s not so much an Information Highway as a vast, lush Botanical Garden, filled with every kind of information and reference we could possibly want!
Today, I want to highlight some Web sites that you might find particularly helpful. They might be brand new or they might be old friends that are already firmly established in your Favorites file. Either way, I hope you’ll take a look at these sites as they can prove to be invaluable resources when you need plant-related information.
As you know, I invite questions from readers who can reach me at steve@landsteward.org and I do my best to answer those questions based on my own experience. However, there are times when I look to the Internet to investigate a particularly tricky plant problem, either one of my own or one posed by a reader. Even the best doctors have a library of reference books; we plant lovers shouldn’t feel bashful about seeking helpful information either!
http://plants.usda.gov
As this site says on its home page: “The PLANTS Database provides standardized information about the vascular plants, mosses, liverworts, hornworts and lichens of the U.S. and its territories.”
You can see why many people regard this site as THE database for plants. For example, here you can download a list of plants native to your state. Heck, you can even download a complete plants checklist (warning: it’s a big list). There is a gallery 0f 30,000+ plant images and you can submit your own photos to the gallery.
While you’re there, you can read about endangered plants or wetland plants in your region, or learn more about noxious and invasive plants. This is a treasure trove of plant information and well worth bookmarking.
http://www.csrees.usda.gov
One of the best places you can turn to for expert help and advice is an Extension Service. Go to this Web site, also maintained by the United States Department of Agriculture, and you are only a few clicks away from finding someone to answer your questions.
Technically, this site is the home of Cooperative State Research, Education & Extension Service (CSREES). Here you can browse a lot of land-related topics. But when you need help, click on the link to “Local Extension Office.” This will take you to a map of the USA from which you click on your state. Once you see the state map, click on your county and you’ll see the complete contact information you need.
Often a quick phone call will answer your question, or they can direct you to a specific resource. I’ve always found the people at Extension Services to be very happy to offer help and advice.
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Feature/backyard/treeptg.html
The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) hosts this Web site that is a “must see” if you’re thinking of planting some trees on your land but aren’t quite sure where to start.
You’ll find unbiased answers to a lot of questions you might have about what type of trees to select, issues to consider about placement before you plant and how to maintain healthy trees.
> From that page, you can also find links to other NRCS pages that address backyard conservation topics such as ponds and backyard wetlands, composting, mulching, terracing, wildlife habitat and pest management.
www.landsteward.org
Okay, I have to confess that this is the Web site that I host. I’m including it here because you can click on direct links to the other sites I’ve mentioned when you find this column under the Plant Man heading.
My objective with landsteward.org is make it a “resource of resources” for anyone needing information about trees, shrubs or anything relating to gardens and landscaping. Visitors can find an extensive library of plant-related articles, tips and hundreds of links to other Web sites.
I’ll point you in the direction of additional helpful Internet sites in a future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Today, I want to highlight some Web sites that you might find particularly helpful. They might be brand new or they might be old friends that are already firmly established in your Favorites file. Either way, I hope you’ll take a look at these sites as they can prove to be invaluable resources when you need plant-related information.
As you know, I invite questions from readers who can reach me at steve@landsteward.org and I do my best to answer those questions based on my own experience. However, there are times when I look to the Internet to investigate a particularly tricky plant problem, either one of my own or one posed by a reader. Even the best doctors have a library of reference books; we plant lovers shouldn’t feel bashful about seeking helpful information either!
http://plants.usda.gov
As this site says on its home page: “The PLANTS Database provides standardized information about the vascular plants, mosses, liverworts, hornworts and lichens of the U.S. and its territories.”
You can see why many people regard this site as THE database for plants. For example, here you can download a list of plants native to your state. Heck, you can even download a complete plants checklist (warning: it’s a big list). There is a gallery 0f 30,000+ plant images and you can submit your own photos to the gallery.
While you’re there, you can read about endangered plants or wetland plants in your region, or learn more about noxious and invasive plants. This is a treasure trove of plant information and well worth bookmarking.
http://www.csrees.usda.gov
One of the best places you can turn to for expert help and advice is an Extension Service. Go to this Web site, also maintained by the United States Department of Agriculture, and you are only a few clicks away from finding someone to answer your questions.
Technically, this site is the home of Cooperative State Research, Education & Extension Service (CSREES). Here you can browse a lot of land-related topics. But when you need help, click on the link to “Local Extension Office.” This will take you to a map of the USA from which you click on your state. Once you see the state map, click on your county and you’ll see the complete contact information you need.
Often a quick phone call will answer your question, or they can direct you to a specific resource. I’ve always found the people at Extension Services to be very happy to offer help and advice.
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Feature/backyard/treeptg.html
The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) hosts this Web site that is a “must see” if you’re thinking of planting some trees on your land but aren’t quite sure where to start.
You’ll find unbiased answers to a lot of questions you might have about what type of trees to select, issues to consider about placement before you plant and how to maintain healthy trees.
> From that page, you can also find links to other NRCS pages that address backyard conservation topics such as ponds and backyard wetlands, composting, mulching, terracing, wildlife habitat and pest management.
www.landsteward.org
Okay, I have to confess that this is the Web site that I host. I’m including it here because you can click on direct links to the other sites I’ve mentioned when you find this column under the Plant Man heading.
My objective with landsteward.org is make it a “resource of resources” for anyone needing information about trees, shrubs or anything relating to gardens and landscaping. Visitors can find an extensive library of plant-related articles, tips and hundreds of links to other Web sites.
I’ll point you in the direction of additional helpful Internet sites in a future column.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
Protect plants from winter’s cold and frost
At this time of year, as evenings become a little more chilly, we can keep out the cold by pulling on a sweater or snuggling into a warm jacket as we brave the night air. But remember that plants feel the cold, too, and you can help them bundle up and stay protected against the coming winter weather.
One major problem that can harm your perennials is when the ground freezes then thaws then freezes again… and again. This can happen even in quite temperate regions during an unusually severe winter, and of course in some regions every winter could be called severe!
Plants subjected to repeated freeze-thaw-freeze conditions tend to “heave” their roots out of the soil where they can become frost-damaged. Mulching your plants can help protect them against the effects of freeze and thaw. There are plenty of choices when it comes to mulch, including straw, shredded bark and pine needles. One major benefit of straw is that it is hollow, allowing an effective layer of insulation without being too tightly packed.
Apply a winter “coat” of mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep around each plant. (If the plants are in an area that is unprotected from the elements or open to strong winter winds, you can safely add an extra inch or two of mulch.) Then gently pull the mulch back from the stem or truck with your fingers. This allows the plant to breathe and helps diminish the likelihood of disease problems.
Don’t make the mistake of adding the protective winter mulch too soon!
My best advice is to wait until after the first really freezing cold night, but before you expect any possible snowfall. Why wait? Mulch too early and you could be providing comfortable nesting areas for rodents that might chew on the plants you’re trying to protect.
It isn’t just the roots that can need some protection against the elements. A particularly hard frost can cause “above ground” damage, too. There are various commercially-made plant covers available from catalogs and garden centers. They are made from weather-resistant polyethylene and secure around the bottom with pull-tabs. Available in various sizes, they are fairly easy to slip over the top of the shrub or bush.
If you prefer to get creative, you can use lawn and leaf bags, and I’ve even seen sheets of bubble wrap shaped into plant covers. Plant covers should only be used when you are expecting a severe frost that could damage delicate plants. Remove the covers as soon as the immediate danger has passed. Do not leave plants covered for extended periods.
In the fall and winter, it’s not just cold weather that can attack your plants. Deer, rodents and other wildlife can cause quite a lot of damage, too. In a future column, I’ll discuss how to keep your plants off the all-they-can-eat “critter buffet.”
For more information on protecting plants read our article on What Are Fall Planting Risks?
One major problem that can harm your perennials is when the ground freezes then thaws then freezes again… and again. This can happen even in quite temperate regions during an unusually severe winter, and of course in some regions every winter could be called severe!
Plants subjected to repeated freeze-thaw-freeze conditions tend to “heave” their roots out of the soil where they can become frost-damaged. Mulching your plants can help protect them against the effects of freeze and thaw. There are plenty of choices when it comes to mulch, including straw, shredded bark and pine needles. One major benefit of straw is that it is hollow, allowing an effective layer of insulation without being too tightly packed.
Apply a winter “coat” of mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep around each plant. (If the plants are in an area that is unprotected from the elements or open to strong winter winds, you can safely add an extra inch or two of mulch.) Then gently pull the mulch back from the stem or truck with your fingers. This allows the plant to breathe and helps diminish the likelihood of disease problems.
Don’t make the mistake of adding the protective winter mulch too soon!
My best advice is to wait until after the first really freezing cold night, but before you expect any possible snowfall. Why wait? Mulch too early and you could be providing comfortable nesting areas for rodents that might chew on the plants you’re trying to protect.
It isn’t just the roots that can need some protection against the elements. A particularly hard frost can cause “above ground” damage, too. There are various commercially-made plant covers available from catalogs and garden centers. They are made from weather-resistant polyethylene and secure around the bottom with pull-tabs. Available in various sizes, they are fairly easy to slip over the top of the shrub or bush.
If you prefer to get creative, you can use lawn and leaf bags, and I’ve even seen sheets of bubble wrap shaped into plant covers. Plant covers should only be used when you are expecting a severe frost that could damage delicate plants. Remove the covers as soon as the immediate danger has passed. Do not leave plants covered for extended periods.
In the fall and winter, it’s not just cold weather that can attack your plants. Deer, rodents and other wildlife can cause quite a lot of damage, too. In a future column, I’ll discuss how to keep your plants off the all-they-can-eat “critter buffet.”
For more information on protecting plants read our article on What Are Fall Planting Risks?
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Black walnut trees can be grown from seeds as well as saplings
Regular readers of this column will know that I also host a weekly e-mailed newsletter. Today I thought you would like to see some recent questions that were sent to that newsletter, as well as some of the answers that I gave in response.
QUESTION: “It is weird that I am writing you. I came home last night with a bag full of black walnut seeds from my uncle's farm. My wife handed me your article on proper care for black walnut trees today. My intention is to plant some in my yard, and use the rest for dyeing. Anyway, your article seemed to be concerned with sapling trees, but what about growing them from the seed? Should I just dig a hole and plant, or should pot it for the time being? I live in Columbus, OH, on former farmland, so the soil basically sucks. Lots of stone, and I imagine a lot of clay. Any tips for seedling growing?
“On another note, I have a red oak sapling that is bent from the top being too heavy. The small trunk is sort of an "s" shape. I have it staked with a shepherd's crook, but I'm afraid that removing it will just destroy it. Again, any thoughts? Thanks for your time.” – Charlie Higley
ANSWER: Your walnuts can be planted in the soil right now. Leave them in the hull and plant to cover about one-inch deep. If you cannot plant them immediately, just be sure they don’t dry out, otherwise you could adversely affect their ability to geminate.
There is a very helpful online guide titled “How to Grow Black Walnuts,” produced by the Kansas State Agricultural College. You can find it at http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/pr_histpubs/Pubs/SC013.PDF and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under The Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org. > From your description, the red oak does sound top heavy. My suggestion is to try pruning some of the branches and out growth to take away some of the weight.
QUESTION: “I had a large hibiscus purchased from a florist that sat in a west facing window. The non-stop blossoms were show-stoppers and I managed to harvest 3 seeds from the plant. When I moved to the US from Canada I could not bring my plants but was thrilled when one of the hibiscus seeds germinated and grew. Now, 10 years later this plant has never bloomed despite my best efforts. I feed, prune and place it outdoors for the summer. What can I do to make this plant bloom?” -- Lynda Birmingham AL
ANSWER: “There are ‘blooming things’ that you can purchase from most garden centers and you might want to try one of them. However, there is a trick I use with wisteria around November when they go dormant. I take one tablespoon of Epsom salts and dissolve it into a gallon of water and saturate the soil at the base of the plant. In the spring, I repeat the process just before they start to leaf out.
One other thing comes to mind in that, since you only have the seed from the plant, you might have just a seedling and not the cultivar of the exact plant. If that is the case the bloom will not be the same as the original one with the non-stop blossoms.
QUESTION: “I have a question about an American Elm. I am wondering what would be the spread of this magnificent tree with a height of 100 feet. We live in the city so a tree of that size might be a bit overwhelming. My neighbor’s elm is about 50 feet in height with a spread of about 40 feet.” – Wende
ANSWER: As you’ve noticed, ‘shorter’ elms can have a spread that is about the same width as the height of the tree… up to a point! If the elm continues to grow – and some can reach 100 to 110 feet tall – it will end up with a spread of one half to two thirds of its height. That’s quite a spread!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “It is weird that I am writing you. I came home last night with a bag full of black walnut seeds from my uncle's farm. My wife handed me your article on proper care for black walnut trees today. My intention is to plant some in my yard, and use the rest for dyeing. Anyway, your article seemed to be concerned with sapling trees, but what about growing them from the seed? Should I just dig a hole and plant, or should pot it for the time being? I live in Columbus, OH, on former farmland, so the soil basically sucks. Lots of stone, and I imagine a lot of clay. Any tips for seedling growing?
“On another note, I have a red oak sapling that is bent from the top being too heavy. The small trunk is sort of an "s" shape. I have it staked with a shepherd's crook, but I'm afraid that removing it will just destroy it. Again, any thoughts? Thanks for your time.” – Charlie Higley
ANSWER: Your walnuts can be planted in the soil right now. Leave them in the hull and plant to cover about one-inch deep. If you cannot plant them immediately, just be sure they don’t dry out, otherwise you could adversely affect their ability to geminate.
There is a very helpful online guide titled “How to Grow Black Walnuts,” produced by the Kansas State Agricultural College. You can find it at http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/pr_histpubs/Pubs/SC013.PDF and you can click on a direct link when you find this column under The Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org. > From your description, the red oak does sound top heavy. My suggestion is to try pruning some of the branches and out growth to take away some of the weight.
QUESTION: “I had a large hibiscus purchased from a florist that sat in a west facing window. The non-stop blossoms were show-stoppers and I managed to harvest 3 seeds from the plant. When I moved to the US from Canada I could not bring my plants but was thrilled when one of the hibiscus seeds germinated and grew. Now, 10 years later this plant has never bloomed despite my best efforts. I feed, prune and place it outdoors for the summer. What can I do to make this plant bloom?” -- Lynda Birmingham AL
ANSWER: “There are ‘blooming things’ that you can purchase from most garden centers and you might want to try one of them. However, there is a trick I use with wisteria around November when they go dormant. I take one tablespoon of Epsom salts and dissolve it into a gallon of water and saturate the soil at the base of the plant. In the spring, I repeat the process just before they start to leaf out.
One other thing comes to mind in that, since you only have the seed from the plant, you might have just a seedling and not the cultivar of the exact plant. If that is the case the bloom will not be the same as the original one with the non-stop blossoms.
QUESTION: “I have a question about an American Elm. I am wondering what would be the spread of this magnificent tree with a height of 100 feet. We live in the city so a tree of that size might be a bit overwhelming. My neighbor’s elm is about 50 feet in height with a spread of about 40 feet.” – Wende
ANSWER: As you’ve noticed, ‘shorter’ elms can have a spread that is about the same width as the height of the tree… up to a point! If the elm continues to grow – and some can reach 100 to 110 feet tall – it will end up with a spread of one half to two thirds of its height. That’s quite a spread!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Butterfly bushes benefit from fall pruning
Today we have questions from several different parts of America… and even one from India!
QUESTION: “I planted some Rosa rugosas and butterfly bushes last spring. All are doing very well. My question is whether I need to prune these back before winter sets in. I live in Albany NY.” -- Gay Malin
ANSWER: The butterfly bushes can be pruned back once they go dormant. In fact I recommend cutting them back to about 6 inches for the first year and gradually giving them a bit more each year when pruning. The Rosa rugosas are best pruned in early spring, primarily for shaping and to cut out any dead branches or any that are touching or crossing each other.
QUESTION: “I am looking to create some privacy landscaping. What would you recommend for salt air? I would like a mixture of evergreens, crape myrtle and grasses. Not sure of the best evergreens for the seashore.” – Deborah Lukens
ANSWER: The evergreens you should use will depend largely on the Plant Hardiness Zone in which you live. If you are in zones 5 through 8, I would recommend Cedar Green Giants for the background of your privacy block, with crape myrtles, laurels or Rosa rugosas on the inside for all-summer color. Grasses and colorful perennials are also a good addition and can give a welcome look to a landscape.
As always I suggest that you sketch out a plan to get your ideas down on paper before you start the project. A background line of Green Giants and soft curving lines of color and texture on the inside will help to create a visually pleasing landscape.
QUESTION: “we have a camping site where sometimes snakes appear. Is there a chemical whose smell would keep the snakes and other reptiles away from the tents, or any method by which we can keep away the snakes?” --Rakesh Jain (Indore, India)
ANSWER: The best things we have always used are moth balls. There are products on the market, of course, but virtually all use the same ingredient found in common moth balls.
QUESTION: “I purchased a Japanese Red Maple sapling nine years ago. It had red leaves for several years, but the leaves have been green for the past two years. The tree is now 15 feet tall; beautiful, but green. How can I help the leaves turn red again, or can I?” – Michael Riley
ANSWER: There are several elements to consider here. First, take a look at the area around the tree to see if it has changed over the years. Japanese Red Maples need mostly full sun to stay red, otherwise they will revert back to green. Has anything been built near the tree causing it to be shaded or is another plant growing between it and the sun?
In some cases, using too much nitrogen rich fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn green. If you’ve been using fertilizer around the tree, you could try cutting back or stopping altogether in that vicinity.
QUESTION: “We planted lavender plants 3 years ago in our garden on the Eastern Shore, Maryland. Nothing happened the first year the plants stayed their original size (about 3"). The second year they started to grow and looked like we had achieved our goal. This year they were flourishing, fragrant and tall.
“Then one day they all just seemed to dry up and die. I'm not sure if they are dead at the root or what happened. It has been hot and dry then wet with high amounts of rain. Should I start over or leave them?” – Janice Enright
ANSWER: The same problem with lavender happened to us too. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant and does not do well with a lot of water. After some trial and error, we have been able to keep ours flourishing by having a sand bed underneath for drainage. We never water, and you should never fertilize. This is the only way we have found to grow it successfully.
QUESTION: “I planted some Rosa rugosas and butterfly bushes last spring. All are doing very well. My question is whether I need to prune these back before winter sets in. I live in Albany NY.” -- Gay Malin
ANSWER: The butterfly bushes can be pruned back once they go dormant. In fact I recommend cutting them back to about 6 inches for the first year and gradually giving them a bit more each year when pruning. The Rosa rugosas are best pruned in early spring, primarily for shaping and to cut out any dead branches or any that are touching or crossing each other.
QUESTION: “I am looking to create some privacy landscaping. What would you recommend for salt air? I would like a mixture of evergreens, crape myrtle and grasses. Not sure of the best evergreens for the seashore.” – Deborah Lukens
ANSWER: The evergreens you should use will depend largely on the Plant Hardiness Zone in which you live. If you are in zones 5 through 8, I would recommend Cedar Green Giants for the background of your privacy block, with crape myrtles, laurels or Rosa rugosas on the inside for all-summer color. Grasses and colorful perennials are also a good addition and can give a welcome look to a landscape.
As always I suggest that you sketch out a plan to get your ideas down on paper before you start the project. A background line of Green Giants and soft curving lines of color and texture on the inside will help to create a visually pleasing landscape.
QUESTION: “we have a camping site where sometimes snakes appear. Is there a chemical whose smell would keep the snakes and other reptiles away from the tents, or any method by which we can keep away the snakes?” --Rakesh Jain (Indore, India)
ANSWER: The best things we have always used are moth balls. There are products on the market, of course, but virtually all use the same ingredient found in common moth balls.
QUESTION: “I purchased a Japanese Red Maple sapling nine years ago. It had red leaves for several years, but the leaves have been green for the past two years. The tree is now 15 feet tall; beautiful, but green. How can I help the leaves turn red again, or can I?” – Michael Riley
ANSWER: There are several elements to consider here. First, take a look at the area around the tree to see if it has changed over the years. Japanese Red Maples need mostly full sun to stay red, otherwise they will revert back to green. Has anything been built near the tree causing it to be shaded or is another plant growing between it and the sun?
In some cases, using too much nitrogen rich fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn green. If you’ve been using fertilizer around the tree, you could try cutting back or stopping altogether in that vicinity.
QUESTION: “We planted lavender plants 3 years ago in our garden on the Eastern Shore, Maryland. Nothing happened the first year the plants stayed their original size (about 3"). The second year they started to grow and looked like we had achieved our goal. This year they were flourishing, fragrant and tall.
“Then one day they all just seemed to dry up and die. I'm not sure if they are dead at the root or what happened. It has been hot and dry then wet with high amounts of rain. Should I start over or leave them?” – Janice Enright
ANSWER: The same problem with lavender happened to us too. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant and does not do well with a lot of water. After some trial and error, we have been able to keep ours flourishing by having a sand bed underneath for drainage. We never water, and you should never fertilize. This is the only way we have found to grow it successfully.
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
Spectacular shrubs can dazzle with fall color
When it comes to fall color, it’s not only trees that put on a dazzling show. Select the right shrubs and you can have a display of autumn colors closer to ground level. Here are a few of my favorites:
Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compacta)
It is sometimes called Cork Tree or Dwarf Winged Euonymus, but nothing can better describe this shrub than the name Burning Bush! In the fall, the foliage turns to such a brilliant – almost luminous – red that it almost seems too perfect to be real. But real it is, of course.
If left untrimmed, it can reach a height of about 6 to 10 feet and produces orange/red berries that provide food for wildlife through the winter. A row of Burning Bushes in front of your house, particularly if backed by a white or light-colored wall, will create a colorful welcome to visitors in the fall. Although Burning Bush is somewhat shade-tolerant, you’ll see the brightest color if the shrubs are planted in full sun.
Fothergilla (Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae)
Like many plants, this one has an interesting history. It is named after Dr. John Fothergill (1735 – 1780), a physician and botanist, who championed the cause of the American colonists and became a friend of Benjamin Franklin.
Fothergilla is a dense, compact shrub producing fragrant, feathery, white flowers in the spring that remind me of bottle brushes. The rounded, dark-green leaves turn to a delightful orange-red and even scarlet. Fothergilla are tolerant of most soils, but do best in acid, moist, well-drained soil.
Clethra Ruby Spice (Clethra alnifolia Ruby Spice)
The first time I saw this plant (or to be more accurate, a whole section of them) growing at a friend’s nursery, I was immediately struck by the cinnamon-like fragrance that was apparent from at least 50 feet away! It was July and the clusters of pink flowers were in full bloom.
Later, in the fall, the foliage becomes a very pleasant shade of yellow and then golden-brown. Ruby Spice is a good choice for shrub borders or around water features. I don’t recommend planting in drought-prone areas, but on the other hand, it is fairly adaptable to semi-waterlogged clay soils.
Little Henry (Itea virginica)
Little Henry could be a good choice when you’re looking for an attractive perennial shrub that maintains a compact size. Topping out between 1 and 3 feet at maturity, Little Henry is a semi-evergreen with dark green leaves that turn to a reddish tint in early fall and then go all the way to remarkable shades of dark crimson and scarlet as the temperatures drop. As I have said before, Little Henry is the one plant that can truly rival Burning Bush when it comes to eye-popping fall color.
I’ve found Little Henry to be quite easy to grow and it seems relatively free of problems associated with disease and insects. It’s an adaptable little fellow, tolerant of damp or dry soils, variances in pH and tolerant of light conditions from shade to full sun. I’d say Little Henry would be a good choice to cover a bank or a hillside that’s not easy to mow. It looks good around a pond or lake, too.
Shenandoah grass (Panicum virgatum)
This elegant ornamental grass is sometimes mistaken for Japanese Blood grass, but is just different enough to give your landscape a unique edge. Shenandoah has a cascading form with foliage that starts out green with the tips beginning to turn red by about mid-July. By the fall, the entire plant will have turned to a mixture of orange and red, for a spectacular display.
Shenandoah is a fairly fast-growing grass that can reach a height of around 4 to 5 feet. Plant it where it can get the benefit of full sun in order to achieve the full benefit of the spectacular color.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compacta)
It is sometimes called Cork Tree or Dwarf Winged Euonymus, but nothing can better describe this shrub than the name Burning Bush! In the fall, the foliage turns to such a brilliant – almost luminous – red that it almost seems too perfect to be real. But real it is, of course.
If left untrimmed, it can reach a height of about 6 to 10 feet and produces orange/red berries that provide food for wildlife through the winter. A row of Burning Bushes in front of your house, particularly if backed by a white or light-colored wall, will create a colorful welcome to visitors in the fall. Although Burning Bush is somewhat shade-tolerant, you’ll see the brightest color if the shrubs are planted in full sun.
Fothergilla (Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae)
Like many plants, this one has an interesting history. It is named after Dr. John Fothergill (1735 – 1780), a physician and botanist, who championed the cause of the American colonists and became a friend of Benjamin Franklin.
Fothergilla is a dense, compact shrub producing fragrant, feathery, white flowers in the spring that remind me of bottle brushes. The rounded, dark-green leaves turn to a delightful orange-red and even scarlet. Fothergilla are tolerant of most soils, but do best in acid, moist, well-drained soil.
Clethra Ruby Spice (Clethra alnifolia Ruby Spice)
The first time I saw this plant (or to be more accurate, a whole section of them) growing at a friend’s nursery, I was immediately struck by the cinnamon-like fragrance that was apparent from at least 50 feet away! It was July and the clusters of pink flowers were in full bloom.
Later, in the fall, the foliage becomes a very pleasant shade of yellow and then golden-brown. Ruby Spice is a good choice for shrub borders or around water features. I don’t recommend planting in drought-prone areas, but on the other hand, it is fairly adaptable to semi-waterlogged clay soils.
Little Henry (Itea virginica)
Little Henry could be a good choice when you’re looking for an attractive perennial shrub that maintains a compact size. Topping out between 1 and 3 feet at maturity, Little Henry is a semi-evergreen with dark green leaves that turn to a reddish tint in early fall and then go all the way to remarkable shades of dark crimson and scarlet as the temperatures drop. As I have said before, Little Henry is the one plant that can truly rival Burning Bush when it comes to eye-popping fall color.
I’ve found Little Henry to be quite easy to grow and it seems relatively free of problems associated with disease and insects. It’s an adaptable little fellow, tolerant of damp or dry soils, variances in pH and tolerant of light conditions from shade to full sun. I’d say Little Henry would be a good choice to cover a bank or a hillside that’s not easy to mow. It looks good around a pond or lake, too.
Shenandoah grass (Panicum virgatum)
This elegant ornamental grass is sometimes mistaken for Japanese Blood grass, but is just different enough to give your landscape a unique edge. Shenandoah has a cascading form with foliage that starts out green with the tips beginning to turn red by about mid-July. By the fall, the entire plant will have turned to a mixture of orange and red, for a spectacular display.
Shenandoah is a fairly fast-growing grass that can reach a height of around 4 to 5 feet. Plant it where it can get the benefit of full sun in order to achieve the full benefit of the spectacular color.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Six trees that bring vibrant color to fall landscapes
It is a wonder of Nature that, as plants prepare themselves for the winter ahead, they produce some of the most spectacular, eye-popping color of their life cycle.
If you are like Cheryl and me, you love to see the glorious colors. The change seems gradual at first, then almost overnight, everything between the ground and the sky is a flood of gold, red, crimson and claret.
If you enjoy driving out to the countryside to take in the fall colors, or if you look with envy upon your neighbors’ colorful fall displays, this could the perfect time to select some trees and shrubs that you can plant now and enjoy for many autumn seasons in the future.
Today, I have a few colorful suggestions; trees that seem to come into their own each fall, saying, “Hey guys! Look at me! I’m dazzling!”
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
If you’re looking for pistachio nuts, keep looking because you won’t find them on this tree, despite its name. However, you will find a delightful tree whose color changes quite gradually, allowing you truly to enjoy the different hues. It’s a hardy tree, quite tolerant of drought and soil conditions. We started growing some from seed about 20 years ago and found them easy to grow; but I suggest you look for them in gallon pots.
Cleveland Select Flowering Pear
In the spring, the Cleveland Select bursts out with snowy white blooms; in fact more blooms than just about any flowering pear I can think of. Then a few months later, the foliage changes from glossy green to purplish red and orange. This makes a real delight for lovers of colorful trees, and is ideal for yard or street planting.
China Snow Fringe Tree (Chionanthus retusus)
“Huh?” I hear you say. Yes, an unusual plant, but worth seeking out, particularly if you like something that will probably be unique in your neighborhood. This particular variety was developed by the renowned horticulturist Don Shadow and is one of the most beautiful of the small flowering trees in spring, summer AND fall. If you’re having trouble locating this rare find, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with some shopping information.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
> From a rarity to a perennial favorite among fall color fans! You can’t go
far wrong with a Sugar Maple. The majestic height and conical shape provide the ideal canvas for a vast display of gold and orange every fall. Be aware, though, that maples need some room to grow. This one can reach 75 – 100 feet at maturity, so you need to be thinking parkland or large lawns to provide the right scale.
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
For really vibrant colors, you can’t beat Sourwood. When the drooping white panicles of brilliant white flowers finally begin to fade at the onset of autumn, you are treated to a foliage show that runs the gamut from orange-red to brick red to flaming scarlet. This one can be tricky to transplant successfully, so I recommend buying container-grown plants rather than bare root. You’ll get the best results when you plant Sourwood in moist, acid, well-drained soil that has quite a bit of organic content.
Washington Hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum)
With a name like this, it sounds more like a 19th century author than a tree. However there are no literary connections. Growing to a manageable height of around 25 to 35 feet, the Washington Hawthorn tends to bloom a little later than many other trees, producing clusters of white flowers in late spring and early summer, followed by red berries that remain through the autumn as the foliage changes to an attractive mix of orange and red.
Next time, I’ll take a look at some shrubs that brighten up fall landscapes with their brilliant colors.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
If you are like Cheryl and me, you love to see the glorious colors. The change seems gradual at first, then almost overnight, everything between the ground and the sky is a flood of gold, red, crimson and claret.
If you enjoy driving out to the countryside to take in the fall colors, or if you look with envy upon your neighbors’ colorful fall displays, this could the perfect time to select some trees and shrubs that you can plant now and enjoy for many autumn seasons in the future.
Today, I have a few colorful suggestions; trees that seem to come into their own each fall, saying, “Hey guys! Look at me! I’m dazzling!”
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
If you’re looking for pistachio nuts, keep looking because you won’t find them on this tree, despite its name. However, you will find a delightful tree whose color changes quite gradually, allowing you truly to enjoy the different hues. It’s a hardy tree, quite tolerant of drought and soil conditions. We started growing some from seed about 20 years ago and found them easy to grow; but I suggest you look for them in gallon pots.
Cleveland Select Flowering Pear
In the spring, the Cleveland Select bursts out with snowy white blooms; in fact more blooms than just about any flowering pear I can think of. Then a few months later, the foliage changes from glossy green to purplish red and orange. This makes a real delight for lovers of colorful trees, and is ideal for yard or street planting.
China Snow Fringe Tree (Chionanthus retusus)
“Huh?” I hear you say. Yes, an unusual plant, but worth seeking out, particularly if you like something that will probably be unique in your neighborhood. This particular variety was developed by the renowned horticulturist Don Shadow and is one of the most beautiful of the small flowering trees in spring, summer AND fall. If you’re having trouble locating this rare find, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with some shopping information.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
> From a rarity to a perennial favorite among fall color fans! You can’t go
far wrong with a Sugar Maple. The majestic height and conical shape provide the ideal canvas for a vast display of gold and orange every fall. Be aware, though, that maples need some room to grow. This one can reach 75 – 100 feet at maturity, so you need to be thinking parkland or large lawns to provide the right scale.
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
For really vibrant colors, you can’t beat Sourwood. When the drooping white panicles of brilliant white flowers finally begin to fade at the onset of autumn, you are treated to a foliage show that runs the gamut from orange-red to brick red to flaming scarlet. This one can be tricky to transplant successfully, so I recommend buying container-grown plants rather than bare root. You’ll get the best results when you plant Sourwood in moist, acid, well-drained soil that has quite a bit of organic content.
Washington Hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum)
With a name like this, it sounds more like a 19th century author than a tree. However there are no literary connections. Growing to a manageable height of around 25 to 35 feet, the Washington Hawthorn tends to bloom a little later than many other trees, producing clusters of white flowers in late spring and early summer, followed by red berries that remain through the autumn as the foliage changes to an attractive mix of orange and red.
Next time, I’ll take a look at some shrubs that brighten up fall landscapes with their brilliant colors.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
Crape Myrtles bloom with a dose of Epsom Salts
QUESTION: “I have eleven Crape Myrtles in my front yard, Last year they flowered. This year there was limited flowering, and my white Crape Myrtle did not flower this year. What plant food can I give them to make the all bloom for next year? Can you give them spike slow release food? What would be the best, and when do I start to feed them?” – Diane B.
ANSWER: There are two things to bear in mind. One: If you fertilize with a heavy nitrogen you will produce foliage but no blooms. Two: In order for your Crape Myrtle to bloom you may want to try this cocktail (for the Crape Myrtles, not you) Mix one tablespoon of Epsom Salts into one gallon of water and pour around the roots of the plant. Repeat for the others, using one gallon per plant. This works by stressing the plant causing it to bloom. I would try the Epsom Salts now and perhaps nip back the tips of the tree or even trim if it needs shaping.
QUESTION: “I just moved into a new home that has a Dogwood and it doesn't seem to be doing well. Many of the leaves are turning red. The leaves that are entirely red are shriveling up with the tips of them brown, and it looks like the tips of those leaves are dying. The other leaves have purple spots on them. Some of those have some tan spots that have dark rims but not all the leaves have this. However, all of the leaves have purple spots or blotches on them.
One section of the tree has what looks like a white residue on some of the leaves that are on the ends of the branch. Most of the leaves are not fully open. Also the bark is all green on the main trunk and there are light green, and whiteish-green blotches on the trunk and branches. There is some yellow on the trunk near the base of the tree. Its early September so some of the leaves could be changing early, but most look sick. The tree sits in full sun in the front yard. Please help! Is there anything I can do?” – Chuck S.
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I don’t think there is not a whole lot that you can do. From what you tell me, one of two things is most likely happening. The first of these is that the tree has developed anthracnose and, sadly, there is no cure. It is a disease that I believe will eventually wipe out the regular native Dogwoods as we know them. Fortunately, there are new hybrids being developed that are anthracnose resistant. One successful variety is named Appalachian Spring.
The second possibility is that your tree is displaying powdery mildew which again is common to Dogwoods. You can spray with a fungicide such as Cleary about 3 times during the growing season to control that. Good luck!
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column very much and have learned a great deal from it. Now I have a problem not only with moles/gophers throughout the entire garden and yard but also white stuff that has appeared on my zucchini, other squash, phlox and even wild roses. Is this Scale? and if so, what can I use to get rid of it? I have also found it in other areas around Wisconsin. Thanks for your good columns and helpful advice.” – Janet F.
ANSWER: I don’t know for sure, but it just sounds like powdery mildew which is spread by wind. Since humidity encourages it, late summer with cool nights and warm days is when you are likely to see more of it. If you think that this is what the problem is, you can spray your perennial plants with the following mixture.
1 gallon water
2 ½ tbs horticultural oil
1 tbs baking soda
Mix and store in labeled closed jar. Spray as symptoms appear on into cool weather.
There isn’t much to say about moles/gophers. They are a pill to deal with! There is a product called Mole Stopper which works with the taste and smell of the critter to keep it away.
These q&a's were taken from the Plant Man Column.
ANSWER: There are two things to bear in mind. One: If you fertilize with a heavy nitrogen you will produce foliage but no blooms. Two: In order for your Crape Myrtle to bloom you may want to try this cocktail (for the Crape Myrtles, not you) Mix one tablespoon of Epsom Salts into one gallon of water and pour around the roots of the plant. Repeat for the others, using one gallon per plant. This works by stressing the plant causing it to bloom. I would try the Epsom Salts now and perhaps nip back the tips of the tree or even trim if it needs shaping.
QUESTION: “I just moved into a new home that has a Dogwood and it doesn't seem to be doing well. Many of the leaves are turning red. The leaves that are entirely red are shriveling up with the tips of them brown, and it looks like the tips of those leaves are dying. The other leaves have purple spots on them. Some of those have some tan spots that have dark rims but not all the leaves have this. However, all of the leaves have purple spots or blotches on them.
One section of the tree has what looks like a white residue on some of the leaves that are on the ends of the branch. Most of the leaves are not fully open. Also the bark is all green on the main trunk and there are light green, and whiteish-green blotches on the trunk and branches. There is some yellow on the trunk near the base of the tree. Its early September so some of the leaves could be changing early, but most look sick. The tree sits in full sun in the front yard. Please help! Is there anything I can do?” – Chuck S.
ANSWER: I’m sorry to say that I don’t think there is not a whole lot that you can do. From what you tell me, one of two things is most likely happening. The first of these is that the tree has developed anthracnose and, sadly, there is no cure. It is a disease that I believe will eventually wipe out the regular native Dogwoods as we know them. Fortunately, there are new hybrids being developed that are anthracnose resistant. One successful variety is named Appalachian Spring.
The second possibility is that your tree is displaying powdery mildew which again is common to Dogwoods. You can spray with a fungicide such as Cleary about 3 times during the growing season to control that. Good luck!
QUESTION: “I enjoy your column very much and have learned a great deal from it. Now I have a problem not only with moles/gophers throughout the entire garden and yard but also white stuff that has appeared on my zucchini, other squash, phlox and even wild roses. Is this Scale? and if so, what can I use to get rid of it? I have also found it in other areas around Wisconsin. Thanks for your good columns and helpful advice.” – Janet F.
ANSWER: I don’t know for sure, but it just sounds like powdery mildew which is spread by wind. Since humidity encourages it, late summer with cool nights and warm days is when you are likely to see more of it. If you think that this is what the problem is, you can spray your perennial plants with the following mixture.
1 gallon water
2 ½ tbs horticultural oil
1 tbs baking soda
Mix and store in labeled closed jar. Spray as symptoms appear on into cool weather.
There isn’t much to say about moles/gophers. They are a pill to deal with! There is a product called Mole Stopper which works with the taste and smell of the critter to keep it away.
These q&a's were taken from the Plant Man Column.
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