These plants love poor soil

Poor soil and occasional drought conditions… Does that mean a dull, scrappy or even non-existent landscape? That’s a problem that worries many readers, judging by my e-mailbag.

But the answer is No. Even if you have poor soil and a potential drought from time to time, you can still enjoy an attractive and colorful landscape.

Here are a couple of potential solutions if these are issues you are dealing with in your garden.

Sedum Black Jack PP16736

This variety of Sedum is quite new and really is spectacular. It has the deepest, dark purple foliage imaginable. In fact at times it can look almost black as the color deepens towards the end of summer.

Black Jack is easy to grow and is hardy in most parts of the country. It has thick, succulent leaves that can store water, and because of this it is drought tolerant. It actually prefers poor soil, as long as it is well-drained and located in full sun to partial shade. In fact, if planted in rich soil, it tends to become lanky and open.

It is a perennial with an upright growing habit (unlike some “sprawling”
sedums) and develops sturdy stems that support the 8 inch flower heads.
Expect it to reach around 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide.

If you want to maintain its compact growing habit, I suggest you divide your Black Jacks every three to four years. You’ll find that older plants tend to split in the center if they haven’t been divided. If you want to know how to divide plants like this, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll reply with a brief “how to.”

If you are “blessed” with poor soil but would like a rich-looking easy-care perennial, Sedum Black Jack could be worth a look.

Gaillardia Fanfare PP15892

It’s hard to believe that this flamboyant and colorful perennial prefers poor soil but that’s the case. It is heat-tolerant and will do best in full sun. In fact, given too much shade it will tend to flop over.

I particularly like the unique look of the blooms, with their dark centers surrounded by a ring of yellow-tipped red tubular petals. The grower who introduced me to this variety called Fanfare a “blooming machine,” putting forth its unusual flowers from early spring right through into the fall.

Fanfare is ideal for borders or mass plantings, and its compact shape – one to two feet high with an 18-inch spread – makes it an ideal container plant.
A container or two of Fanfare near the kitchen door could provide you with some nice displays of cut flowers, too.

I should point out that “poor soil” for Fanfare doesn’t mean heavy clay.
Fanfare prefers well-drained moist soil but is very tolerant of drought conditions and requires very little care beyond deadheading spent blooms to prolong blooming time.

Grass Miscanthus Allegro

If you are somewhat inexperienced as a gardener, or even an absolute beginner, this could be a good plant to develop your green thumb with a very good chance of success.

Music lovers will recognize the word allegro which means “a quick lively tempo” so you would guess correctly that this plant has a fast growth rate.

Allegro is a perennial ornamental grass that is robust and sturdy as well as fast-growing, making it a good choice for a hedge or an ornamental border.
It has a distinctive, feathery look that sways in the breeze and sports red blooms in August and September. If you’re a little more adventurous, you can use it as a backdrop for plants with darker shades of color and foliage in a large mixed border.

Best of all for newbie gardeners, Allegro can grow in virtually any soil from loose sand to heavy clay and doesn’t even require particularly good drainage. The only maintenance required would be an annual haircut about 8 inches from the ground.

Great gardens don’t always need great soil!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Frost bitten plants need your patience

Just when we thought that spring was definitely here and settled in… Wham! Winter came back with a vengeance across many parts of the country.

A few weeks ago, many of us woke up to find frost on the lawn and our plants looking decidedly cold and miserable. Now spring is back, for real this time, and the threat of frost should be behind us until next winter.

If you were caught in this year’s cold snap, it can be hard to tell which of your plants are goners and which will live to fight another day. I have some tips and pointers that should be helpful if you are still anxious about some of your plants.

Even if you escaped the worst of the late frost this time, you might not be so lucky in the future. Keep some of these points in mind and it might help you save some plants next spring!

I received a lot of e-mails from worried readers such as this one:

QUESTION: “I was wondering if we can expect all the damage from the recent freeze to trees, shrubs and perennials to be permanent. I mean do you think some of them will survive? At this point they look like they are dying.

”The Winter Gem boxwoods, azaleas, and day lilies all have extensive damage. I thought I would trim off the damage when the weather warms a little. Would fertilizing to start new growth help to save them?

”I also had Magnolia trees, Flowering Cherry trees and Flowering Crabapple trees and Lilac, Mock Orange, and Flowering Quince Shrubs. Just about all of them look really bad. I would appreciate any suggestions.” – M. Railey

One of the horticulturist’s rules to live by: Do NOT fertilize any plant with freeze damage until it has put on at least some new growth. In fact many plant experts will tell you not to fertilize frostbitten plants until next winter. Why? Because the nitrogen in fertilizer can cause the plant to leaf out too quickly, adding even more stress to the trauma it is already trying to resist.

In most cases, trees and shrubs will begin to put on new growth within two to four weeks after frost damage. This is where Nature really needs our patience. There is a powerful temptation to start pruning as soon as we see frost damaged plants. Do not succumb to the temptation!

In fact, it is better to avoid any major pruning on frostbitten plants as they can take up to a year to return to their normal growth pattern, and pruning, like fertilizing, can add to the stress.

That doesn’t mean you cannot trim away small areas of dried up and obviously dead foliage once the threat of frost is past and new growth is beginning to come back. Just say no to any major surgery.

However, perennials such as hostas and other delicate plants may show signs of severe burn. You can go ahead and clip them back now as they will be putting on new growth. Decayed leaves and branches left on them will only attract annoying insects.

Remember to water your plants. After a frost attack has passed, many plants will need water to help them re-leaf after the first tender leaves were lost to frost.

Again, be patient. Nature can take a while to help plants recover so fight the urge to do anything too drastic.

QUESTION: “I planted several Mallow Marvel hibiscus last summer. I am a novice with these plants. Do they die each year and come back full, or have my plants died? The rest of my plants are budding except these. The limbs seem to be all dead. Please give me direction.” – Krista

ANSWER: Yes, Mallow Marvel is a perennial that will return each spring, reaching 8 to 10 feet eventually. Don’t dig them up. Be patient and they’ll be back

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Give yourself time to “grow” into your landscape

Don’t be tempted to go for “instant landscaping.” That’s the message in this comment from a reader and the response to him from my wife, Cheryl:

COMMENT: “3 years ago we moved to a new house on a 25 acre lot. I am sure it will take us years to figure out what we are going to do with it all. However, 2 years ago we planted our first plants. My neighbor mocked me and said, “Nice sticks,” and would yell over the fence…”Gee…I think your trees are growing!” and then laugh. Having lived on a much smaller lot, the thought of planting “sticks” would have never occurred to us. But with so much area to cover, we thought…”what the heck, let’s try it” so I ignored her remarks.

Now, two years later, my weeping willows are taller than me and my Carolina Spice bushes and Burning Bushes are growing beautifully. So now I wonder, why did I ever spend $30 on a plant that I could grow myself in 2 years for $5 each! I used to be all about instant gratification – but now find the gratification is quadrupled when you watch it grow from a seedling!” – Paul W.

ANSWER: Thank you so much for your note. Only a small portion of homeowners have the financial ability to install instant landscaping and, chances are, they have a knowledgeable person who regularly cares for those plants. Not all of us have nor want that advantage.

My thoughts are that a landscape should take years to grow into itself. Just as you and your family are new to your home and property, you should take the time (be that several years) to live on the property and see how its uses develop. Hasty planting only to get something in the ground often leads to a change of mind a couple of years later. The different ways you and your family will use your property will reveal themselves over time. I always encourage people to take that time to find out. – Cheryl Jones

Your comments and questions are always welcome. Drop an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll do my best to get a personal response back to you. I often include some of those Q&As in this column.

QUESTION: “I have just purchased some Rosa Hansen Hedge Roses. I am interested in using these hedge roses to conceal an existing chain link fence. The site directions state to plant 12” - 24" apart but my question is how far from an existing fence? Can you help?” – Maura

ANSWER: “In order to give them enough room to grow and not be an issue with your neighbor in the future, I would place them at least 2 feet from the fence. That will give them a four foot area in which to grow.

QUESTION: “We have two weeping cherry trees (used to be three) near full grown. They are blooming, but very poorly this year. Any suggestions as why this might be, and what we can do to produce more blooms next year?” – Kathryne

ANSWER: Weather affects the blooming of most early spring flowering trees such as flowering cherry and flowering pear trees. It is quite likely that, with the flip-floppy weather that has been going on in many parts of the U.S., the trees experienced a cool weather snap just after the buds began to form. It's the most common reason as to why they lose their blooms or don't bloom as pretty as in other years. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can do about the weather!

QUESTION: “I have black fountain grass. How do I solve the problem of it reseeding itself?” – Rosie

ANSWER: The best way, when it begins to go to seed, is to cut the seed pods off before they can disperse. The other way is to put down an herbicide that prevents seed from germinating during the growing months.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

“Old Fashioned” plants appeal to modern tastes

What once was old is new again. That’s a saying that can certainly be applied to the world of plants. Quite often a specific plant becomes almost universally popular. As soon as it can be seen in almost every garden, there’s a backlash and the once-popular plant drops out of the Top Forty, so to speak.

But then, a new generation of gardeners and landscapers rediscover the plant and it enjoys a resurgence of popularity.

Just such a plant is Dicentra spectabilis, also known as Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart.

In case you haven’t seen it recently, here’s a reminder. It is named for the dangling, pink and white, heart-shaped blooms that burst forth in a profusion in spring, dying back somewhat in the heat of mid summer, although the blooms last longer in locations where there is ample shade.

This is a hardy little guy, tolerating the cold as well as the sun, topping out at no more than two feet tall with attractive grey-green foliage. If you plant it in shady areas, it does well alongside hostas and ferns. Bleeding Heart is one “Old Fashioned” plant that deserves its modern day revival.

And now to a couple more questions from readers. My wife Cheryl fielded the first one about plants that attract birds.

QUESTION: “The hot, dry summers where we live make it a challenge for me to decide what to plant. We have a few crape myrtles, and Japanese boxwoods that line our privacy fence. Dull, eh? I enjoy the birds and would love to establish a sanctuary in the corner of our back yard. The clay soil and sun are forces to contend with. Any suggestions for creating something as an attractive haven for the birds?” – Kim Renee Keck

ANSWER: Most birds are going to be attracted to plants that produce food and berries over winter. These include: Dogwoods, Rosa rugosas, Serviceberry, Viburnums and ornamental grasses.

Of course, raspberry and blackberry plants fruit during the summer and birds love them. Hummingbirds are attracted to brightly colored flowering plants such as the crape myrtles, buddleias, clethra, herbs (sage, oregano, basil, thyme) and geraniums. Adding a bird feeder with tasty seed blends is always a welcome sight during winter and bird houses are not only visually attractive, but tell the birds to come in and stay awhile. I hope this gives you a few ideas.

QUESTION: “I bought some royal ferns last year, but wasn't aware at that time that they need acid soil. Even though they were planted in shade and kept very moist, they didn't make it (but I am sure that is because I have the wrong soil type). I was wondering if there are any ferns that do well in somewhat alkaline soil?” – Jennifer Bonnett

ANSWER: Most all ferns will prefer soils with a high organic content. You may want to dig an area out and fill it back with only aged compost, aged manure or other organic matter in which to plant the ferns and then top with mulch. They need shaded areas that have drained soil. It is possible that the moisture didn't drain properly and the fern rhizomes rotted. Check the ferns regularly. You only want the soil to be cool and moist, but not damp or wet.

QUESTION: “I have double mock bushes that have not blossomed in five years… never, for that matter. Any suggestions?” – Debbie Andrews

ANSWER: I can think of a couple of things to check on. The doubles typically need to be in total full sun and they do seem to do better in more of a poor soil. Remember that the use of too much fertilizer will encourage leaf growth, but not flowers. You might want to cut out the old growth and any dead canes to get more sunlight into the center of the plants.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Creeping fig needs foothold to climb wall

QUESTION: “We planted creeping fig all along our back wall which is cement (in the shape of bricks), not smooth, kind of bumpy...but the fig is not doing well in grabbing onto the walls and climbing. The only places they are climbing up are along the wooden posts that are about 10-12 feet apart on the wall. We want the fig to climb all over the wall. Any ideas as to what we can do to encourage this?” – Debbie P.

ANSWER: From time to time, I have seen a type of wire frame pictured in some garden magazines. However I have always thought one could craft the same thing using wire and attaching some of the points to the concrete wall with bolts that go into the concrete to secure the structure.

You might want to check with your hardware store to see if they have a ready-made product you can use. If not, consider creating your own DIY version of a faux lattice on the concrete wall for the fig to attach itself to. Once the fig has begun to climb, the wire rack should be virtually invisible. Send me a photo of the finished project at steve@landsteward.org We’re always looking for creative ideas to pass on to visitors to the Web site!

QUESTION: “Last spring we planted 4 evergreen wisteria to grow up on our daughter’s arbor. It did beautifully all summer and in the fall it had blooms. However, now it looks dead. Will this come back this spring? If so, should the wisteria be cut back this spring, or will the new growth appear on what is already there?” – Pam and John Barrett

ANSWER: From what you tell me, I’d say it is just dormant. We have wisteria growing on a pergola in our garden and it has to go through this rest period.

As for cutting it back, it would depend on how unruly it is at this point. The best time to cut it back and still get blooms in the spring is in January or early February, so the optimum time has passed.

You may want to also try something that I do: dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts in one gallon of water and apply a gallon to the base of each of the plants. Then do this once again in the spring just before the leaves begin to appear. This will cause it to bloom more this next year.

Remember that when you apply fertilizer, you increase foliage and top growth. The Epsom salts retard the growth initially and cause it to bloom and the blooms eventually turn into seed pods in the fall.

Not long ago in this column, there was a question from a reader whose home was being invaded by ladybugs that were not exactly ladybugs. An alert reader, A. Wilson in North Carolina, thought I might like to share the information on that subject found at this Web site: http://www.pestproducts.net/ladybugs.htm

As the site points out, there is a big difference between the "garden variety" ladybug and the Asian Lady Beetle. We are all familiar with the ladybug, considered to be a "good guy" since it feeds on garden pests such as aphids. The Asian Lady Beetle poses problems that were unforeseen when they were first introduced in the United States as a biological pest management tool.

This particular lady beetle differs in that it turns to our homes for shelter, invading living areas in very large numbers. When first noticed, mechanical removal can often suffice as beetle pest control. Small numbers can be captured and released outdoors where they can continue to protect our plants from aphids. When the number of lady beetles in a home becomes high, vacuuming will be your best bet, according to the Web site.

Asian lady beetles are beneficial landscape inhabitants are only a nuisance when they move in to your home in large numbers. They are not poisonous or harmful to humans.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Garden tools can make outdoors more fun, less tiring

If there’s anything that garden lovers enjoy almost as much as plants, then it’s finding new garden tools and gadgets.

Today, I’ll feature some products that might make your time outdoors less arduous and more enjoyable. Cheryl and I are already using some of them around our own landscape or at the nursery. Maybe one or two will be just what you’ve been looking for!

Tractor Seat on Wheels
Well, the name of this one says it all: it’s a tractor seat on wheels. This has become one of our favorite products because it saves all that wear and tear on our knees and backs. Now if there’s a job that would normally require squatting, stooping or kneeling, we pull this guy out of the barn and off we go.

The tractor seat rotates 360 degrees and there’s a garden caddy tray underneath it that holds hand tools and gloves, etc. It looks so funky with its big ol’ 8 inch wheels that your kids might actually volunteer to weed the flower beds. Or maybe not.

If you can’t find a product I mention here, drop me an e-mail and I’ll try to help.

Flat Stack self winding hose
If you hate untangling a knotted pile of garden hose or if you’re tired of winding it back onto its storage reel when you’re through watering, this might be what you need. It’s a 50 foot, half-inch hose that stretches out for use like a regular hose then simply retracts itself back into a perfect pancake-shaped circle when you’ve finished using it.

It’s a bit more expensive than a “normal” hose, but you won’t need a hose reel and it might save you a lot of sweat and under-the-breath cursing. The Flat Stack is UV and weather-resistant and should last years longer than those leaky cheapo hoses most of us have lurking somewhere in the garage.

Rain Bird Time-Release Water We haven’t tried this one yet but it certainly looks useful. Essentially, it’s water bound in the form of a solid gel that slowly converts back into water over time, sending water and nutrients from the soil to a plant’s roots over a period of 30 days or more.

Time-Release Water comes in plastic packages that are the size and shape of a 12 ounce tube of bulk sausage. Slit the “sausage,” lay it cut-side down on moist soil next to the plant stem, cover with some topsoil and it will gradually release the water that is suspended in the gel.

It costs around $1.99 per 9 oz tube and is available at most home and garden centers. If you are planning to go on vacation this summer, a few of these around your shrubs or in your container gardens might relieve you of water worries while you’re away.

Black & Decker Cordless Cultivator If you hate weeding or turning over soil in flowerbeds with a shovel or a hoe, this could be the tool you’re looking for. Don’t confuse it with a rotary tiller. It isn’t intended to cut through hard-packed sod. But it’s a good option if you need to loosen dirt for planting, aerate soil or get in and around plants without damaging them while getting at the roots of most weeds.

Because it’s cordless, it can go anywhere, using the same interchangeable 18V power pack that drives several other Black & Decker cordless power tools.

Liquid Net Insect Repellent
Cheryl and I have tried just about every spray and lotion on the market. The ones with DEET are effective, but that’s a chemical that can be absorbed through the skin and has been linked to neurological damage. We came across Liquid Net and we use it because it’s DEET-free, safe for children, has all-natural ingredients and it actually smells pretty good.

There’s even a version called Liquid Net for Pets that repels ticks and fleas without any harmful or dangerous chemicals.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

“Complement” your plants to create color harmony

Gardeners and landscapers can learn a lot from other artists and craftsmen. For instance, think of the people who work in the picture-framing business.

Take a picture to one of these experts and you can find that what might have seemed a no-brainer turns out to require a lot of thought to achieve the desired result. They’ll naturally spend some time selecting the ideal frame. But notice how much thought they put into finding the perfect mat.

The mat – that beveled piece of card that serves as a border between the picture and the frame – is essential to the optimum appreciation of the picture itself. The right mat will enhance perfectly the picture it surrounds, focusing the viewer’s eye on the art it borders.

On the other hand, a carelessly-chosen mat can be a major distraction, clashing with the colors of the art or dominating the viewer’s attention. Even a masterpiece can appear mediocre when poorly framed and matted.

The same can be true with the plants in your landscape.

A prize perennial can look breathtaking when surrounded by other plants carefully chosen to form the ideal “frame and mat” to bring out its color and texture. Conversely, that supreme specimen can almost disappear when set amidst the “wrong” plants.

As I have recommended before, a good start is a color wheel from a craft shop or downloaded from an online source, such as http://www.colormatters.com/colortheory.html You can quickly see a visual guide to analogous and complementary colors.

In a nutshell, analogous colors are the three colors that sit side by side on a twelve-part color wheel; for example the trio that pretty much go from yellow to orange to red. Complementary colors are any two colors that sit directly opposite each other on the wheel, such as red and green, or red-purple and yellow-green. (It’s easier to visualize this when you’re looking at a color wheel!)

Your objective with all this is to achieve harmony: an arrangement that is pleasing to the human eye.

If you need an idea to get you started, you could do worse than a fast-growing perennial named Salvia Blue Hill Sage (Salvia x sylvestris Blue Hill). Why? Because this useful plant seems to bring out the absolute best in other plants that it “frames” in your garden. If you’ve ever said, “That dress brings out the color of your eyes,” you’ll understand what I mean.

Blue Hill originated in Germany where it was (and is) valued for its summer-long blooming clear blue flowers and its sturdy compact stature. Cut it back and it will re-bloom in the early fall. They’re easy to grow and prefer full sun, reaching a maximum height of around two feet.

If you’re using the principals of complementary colors, the brilliant blue of that Salvia and its green foliage would greatly enhance the color of red-blooming plants that you group with it.

A delightful option could be the Dianthus Spotty. Blooming in May or June, the Spotty has bright red flowers festooned with brilliant white spots. Like Blue Hill, they do best in full sun and well drained soil. Spotty is a dwarf variety, reaching only about 5 inches tall and is perfect for rock gardens.

In England they are often described as crevice fillers because they can be planted between flagstones or around craggy rock features. A mass of Dianthus Spotty in full bloom looks like a red and white polka-dot dress. A fun addition to your garden and a fine “complement” to the Blue Hill.

Speaking of “red,” of course you can’t help but think of the aptly named Red Hot Poker.(Kniphofia uvaria Flamenco). Actually, this particular variety produces fiery red, vivid orange and soft yellow flower spikes, thus making it a one-man analogous color display! The brilliant flowers are on straight, 3-foot stalks and hummingbirds seem to go bonkers for them.

Create color harmony in your garden and you’ll see how the right “frames” bring your masterpieces to life.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Blend color and texture for successful container gardens

Container planting has become quite a hot topic with gardeners over the past few years, and for good reason. There are a number of benefits to using those versatile containers and today I’ll share some tips and ideas so you can decide if “going container” would work for you.

A few days ago, I received the following question from a reader:
QUESTION: “I have some large pots that I need to fill. There are six around the pool and two each at two separate entrances to the house. Two are boxes and the other eight are urns. I would like some ideas for possible combinations. I would like to combine evergreens, perennials, and annuals. Ornamental grasses also, either perennial or annual. I live in zone 7.” – Bill Dubin

ANSWER: Bill, I have planters all around our garden area. Last season I used grasses and some ground cover, and featured some perennials. I even included hostas. Here are some that have worked well for me in containers:
Grasses:Miscanthus I. Red Baron, Pennisetum Karley Rose, Pennisetun Hameln, Panicum v. Squaw, Miscnathus purpurascens

Hostas:Blue Angel, Blue Dimples, Patriot.

Ground Cover:Ajuga, English ivy, sedum (including Dragon’s Blood Red, Blue Spruce and Baby Tears)

Perennials:I like any of the achilleas (such as Summer Berries or Paprika that I described in a previous column) and Clematis.

Here’s a basic design tip. If you have a container that will be seen from all sides, plant your grass or the tallest perennial in the center of the pot then build the remaining plants around it to give a layered effect. If the container will be close to a wall or fence and will be viewed mainly from the front, put the tallest plants in the back and work forward to the shorter plants in the front.

If you are having trouble deciding which colors work well together, it’s a good idea to go to a local art or craft store and buy a color wheel which will give a visual guide to color harmony for a very modest investment. If you can’t wait, take a look at an online color wheel and a basic explanation of the difference between complimentary and analogous colors at http://www.artsconnected.org/toolkit/encyc_colorwheel.html As that’s a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
As I mentioned, container gardening is nothing new, but it is a growing trend in recent years. As for benefits, one of the biggest is the mobility factor. “You can arrange the containers for a party on your patio and then move them to other places in your yard,” says Felder Rushing, a gardening expert at the Web site www.Learn2Grow.com

Among Rushing’s other points:
Monitor watering. Plants in containers require more water than those grown in the ground. Also, the type of containers you choose will impact the watering requirements. Clay pots are porous and dry out faster than plastic pots. The smaller the container, the more often you will need to water it.

Consider weight. That one-pound pot may weigh more than 12 pounds once you get soil and plant material in it. If you want to be able to move your containers around, make sure they’re not too heavy. As an alternative, Cheryl and I place some of our containers on specialized dollies with casters for easy movement. We also place a thick layer of recycled Styrofoam “peanuts” under the soil in larger pots for improved drainage and lighter weight.

Consider conditions. In cold climates, containers will be the first to freeze and in warm climates, they’ll hold in heat. Move plants out of hot baking sun in warmer areas and protect them by placing them in a garage or shed in freezing temperatures.
Container gardening is a fun and manageable way to enjoy many types of plants, regardless of the size of your landscape.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

No TLC needed for these out-of-the-ordinary plants

Instead of the “same old same old,” how about putting some pizzazz in your landscape this spring with some plants that are a little out of the ordinary!

Coreopsis Heaven’s Gate
Whoever named this Coreopsis was definitely inspired, perhaps with visions of this particular plant welcoming new arrivals at the Pearly Gates. Unlike its more common yellow cousins, this one is pink. In fact, Heaven’s Gate is a sort of two-tone pink with a deep ruby center changing to a more delicate pink towards the tip of each petal.
It might look delicate, but Heaven’s Gate is easy to grow and doesn’t need a lot of TLC. Blooming from spring to fall, and best suited to Zones 5 to 8, it prefers a sunny spot in your garden and will grow to around 12 to 24 inches at maturity. It’s a showy, compact perennial that could put a little breath of heaven close to home.

Coreopsis rosea Sweet Dreams
As I started writing about Heaven’s Gate, I was reminded of another Coreopsis that is both spectacular and easy to care for. With Sweet Dreams you’ll find blooms with deep raspberry centers bleeding out to pure white tips that really seem to glow against the tapered, dark green foliage.
They bloom pretty much from late spring until the first frost. Growing to about 18 inches tall, they also spread nicely to about 18 inches wide, making them a good addition to a sunny bank as well as the more traditional flower bed. An added benefit: they attract butterflies but are deer-resistant.

Coreopsis grandiflora Domino
If you prefer the more traditional look of a yellow Coreopsis, take a look at this cheerful little guy whose bright yellow, fringed blooms each have a deep burgundy-red center. They add a splash of sunshine to a flower border all summer long and are perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Achillea Summer Berries
Why settle for one color when you can enjoy several? Summer Berries blooms with a sumptuous mix of fruity colors that range from salmon/apricot to yellow and cherry red to pink/cream to two-tone pink and even more, in clusters of 3 to 5 inch blooms.
I’ve found that a lot of Achillea tend to fade, but the blooms on Summer Berries hang in there, even in summer heat and bright sunshine. This plant can really enhance a border and, once again is easy to care for. A favorite of both bees and butterflies, it makes spectacular flower arrangements, fresh or dried.
Happiest in Zones 3 through 9, it grows to around 2 or 3 feet tall, flowering from June to September.

Achillea Paprika
If you’d prefer a single color Achillea instead of the rainbow effect of Summer Berries, try the Paprika. As the name suggests the clusters of flowers are bright red and each flower has a distinctive yellow center.
This is one of the Achillea that will fade a bit – from bright red to pink – as it ages. It’s possible to reduce the fading effect somewhat if you plant them in a spot that has some afternoon shade.
Regular deadheading will keep the blooms coming back. Paprika is a perennial that grows to about 2 or 3 feet at maturity.

Clematis Ernest Markham
This Clematis was named by Rowland Jackman in 1937 to honor Ernest Markham who is credited with being the first to raise this variety. The Jackmans, incidentally, have a long horticultural pedigree themselves, having operated the family nursery in England since 1810. Speaking of pedigrees, this Clematis received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
I particularly like the large, rich red flowers with their creamy-brown stamens. It does well in just about any average, well-drained garden soil, but really thrives in loamy, pH neutral soil. This is a fast-growing deciduous vine than can quickly grow as high as 20 feet.

Isn’t it nice to know that many uncommon plants are still very easy to care for?
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bamboo starts slow, grows to impressive height

Recently, I was out of the country attending an agricultural conference in Nairobi, Kenya. While there, I gave a presentation about the many uses for bamboo and the benefits of establishing bamboo plantations.
When I returned home, I found a lot of questions in my e-mail in-box from readers of this column. I had to smile when I realized that the first one I opened was about… bamboo!

QUESTION: “Can you please tell me approx how many feet the green panda and the green screen grow each year and about how long it takes for them to reach maturity?” – Susan Rodriguez

ANSWER: Bamboo is the tallest growing grass in the world. It does get off to a slow start by taking at least three years to establish itself (with minimum growth). Once the mother plant has established itself, growth will gradually become faster with each cane becoming denser than the previous. On an established plant, the canes will reach their destined height in one year.

The bamboo variety known as green panda grows in the 6-10 foot height range and the green screen grows in the 10-20 foot tall range. Bamboo typically lives until the plant itself blooms, which is generally in 40 to 60 years.
QUESTION: “I purchased 50 Red Twig Dogwoods 3 years ago. They are doing great. We live in [USDA Plant Hardiness] zone 7 and I just trimmed them back some. What kind of fertilizer should I use on them this spring? Also, what is a good fertilizer for Hemlocks, Compacta Hollies and Nandinas?” -- Jerry Schaufenbuel
ANSWER: Since they are doing well, I would advise you to be cautious in applying anything to them. Rather than fertilizer, you might just mulch them with an aged compost mix or other organic matter to give them any nutrients they might need.

If you feel that a fertilizer is necessary, use a low grade balanced one and use sparingly. Fertilizer balances out the soil and is usually only necessary when the soil is somewhat lacking.

For the hemlocks, I would add organic matter. Alternatively, visit your hardware or garden store and ask for a fertilizer specifically for evergreens such as hemlock and see what their best brand will be. Take a pitchfork and punch holes around the base of the trees spreading outward as the root system will spread out and not down. Then spread fertilizer as directed and water.

The same applies to the holly and nandina plants, as they prefer organic matter to inorganic fertilizer. However, for inorganic use, there is a product called HollyTone that is used on broadleaf evergreens (holly and nandinas).
As long as the plants are happy and growing, as I mentioned before, just be cautious in your applications and follow the directions on the packaging.

QUESTION: “I enjoyed your recent column about Knockout roses. I planted a couple of Red Knockout roses last spring. They have done pretty well. However Japanese beetles enjoyed feasting on them for a few weeks. When the beetles left the plants recovered pretty quickly. Should I trim the plants back during the cold months? Also, is this a good time to trim weigela bushes? I don't want them to get too large.” – Barbara Moses
ANSWER: The Red Knockout roses are just fabulous, aren't they? A product called Take Down Garden Spray works great on those little beetles. Be sure to spray around the base of the plants as well as the beetles burrow into the ground to reproduce. Actually if you have a severe problem with the Japanese beetles, it may take 1-2 years of spraying to break their cycle.

On a warm weekend in March, you may want to do your springclean up. On the knockouts and weigela, as well as other plants, prune out any branches that are broken, dead or crossing over each other. It is also a good time for shaping to your liking as you can see the plant without leaves to block the view.

Weigela can be pruned and shaped in early spring and then pruned again after blooming. It is possible that they may bloom again after the second pruning. But more, it keeps them to the size you prefer.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Get your garden ready for spring

Spring at last… almost! The official first day of spring is March 21, but in many parts of the country, it is beginning to feel like spring is already in the air.

For some reason, outdoor jobs that must be done in the spring become enjoyable activities while they’re simply chores at other times of the year. Perhaps it is the anticipation of a new season about to begin and visions of colorful, fragrant blooms that are soon to appear.
So let’s get outside and see what we can do.

Look at that lawn!
It might be a bit of a sorry sight after the winter, but with a bit of TLC, you can coax it back to verdant life. If you can see a fair amount of thatch (the dead, straw-like stuff that is often tangled near the grass roots) you will need to rake it out before you attempt any other lawn care projects. The reason? Anything you add, such as new seed or fertilizer will simply sit on the thatch, rather than getting down into the soil, unless it is removed.

Once you have de-thatched your lawn, you can add a fertilizer. Most garden centers carry a variety of lawn fertilizers. If you’re uncertain, describe your lawn conditions to the manager at the garden center and ask him or her to recommend a particular type of fertilizer. If that doesn’t help, you can always drop an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to help. Above all, when using fertilizer, be sure to read the instructions thoroughly!

If you need to re-seed (sometimes called overseeding), that’s the final step after any de-thatching or fertilizing that your lawn needed.

Plant and transplant
March is a good time to plant those new roses, berries, fruit trees and most deciduous plants. If you’re still not sure what to plant, there’s still time to go online and do some research but don’t leave it too long.
As for transplanting existing plants from one spot to another, time is running out, so do it as soon as you can because many plants are already starting their annual spring growth.
PruningIf you need to prune ornamental trees and shrubs, the best time to do so is before growth starts. The exceptions to that rule are spring-flowering shrubs. For those, you need to wait until after they finish flowering. This would be a good time to prune roses if they look like they need a trim. Again, I’m happy to advise on any specific pruning questions you might have.

Weeding
Probably everyone’s least-favorite garden activity, perhaps because it feels destructive rather than constructive, and it can be backbreaking work. As I’ve said before, do a little at a time, interspersed with more enjoyable garden activities, and it will seem less of a pain in the, uh, knees.
If you’re using a cultivator as part of your spring gardening project, don’t be tempted to use it in bulb beds.

Remove the weeds by hand or you’ll risk injuring the delicate root systems.

Pick your perennials
Even if it is still too early to plant perennials in your area, take a look around your landscape and decide if you can brighten the place up with a few new “faces.” Gardening books and magazines and online Web sites should give you plenty of ideas, once you determine the amount of sunlight and the soil conditions affecting that part of your landscape.

Buying perennials that have already experienced at least one full growing season is worth the additional cost as they will probably be sturdier and more likely to thrive than smaller, cheaper options.
I like to think of perennial plants as the backbone of the flower garden because they're the plants with staying power. Their leaves die back as winter approaches, but with luck, the following spring, they come back. Some plants are short-lived, but old favorites like daylilies, and hostas can thrive for decades.

Get outside, breathe in that fresh (almost) spring air and learn why you love your landscape all over again!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Rooftop patio needs vines for privacy and beauty

QUESTION: “We live in San Francisco on the roof top of a 10 story condo building. Our unit features a 16’x30’ paved patio, which flanks our neighbor’s patio, separated by a steel ‘privacy’ fence with holes. We are looking for suggestions for vines or other plants that will survive in containers, endure the SF weather patterns, not drop their leaves, and provide adequate privacy from the neighbors – that is, grow to 4 feet high and spread horizontally. The area where we need the plants faces north and gets sun in the afternoon. Any suggestions?” -- Laura and Bill

ANSWER: You might consider climbing plants such as Carolina Jessamine, creeping fig, bougainvillea, climbing roses, climbing hydrangea, clematis and trumpet vine for the fence itself, then add some containers of smaller growing plants (up to 4 feet in height with some variation in color and size) such as bamboo, agave and palms.
Most of the vine plants listed above bloom. The evergreens are the Carolina Jessamine and evergreen varieties of the clematis. The other vine varieties will probably still go dormant even with San Francisco’s mild weather.

QUESTION: “I have ten cedar Green Giant quartz sized plants that have been in the ground since September and are beginning to look like they need some fertilizer. We had several days of frost and cold weather the last couple of weeks and that's when their color changed. I have given them a deep watering about every two weeks.
“What type of fertilizer should I use on the Green Giants and also how often should I fertilizer them to ensure a fast growth rate? They were very healthy plants when I received them and want to keep them that way!” – Nancy Melia

ANSWER: I would wait just about a month before you fertilize. To green them back up and begin to put on more foliage you will need a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content then the other elements. I would use a 20-10-10 or equivalent to begin with, if using oil based fertilizer. Take about one half cup and circle it around the base about 6 to 12 inches from the stem or trunk of the tree.
If you go with organic, which is my preference, use either fish emollient or rich compost. Hope this helps and keep me informed. I should add that it is natural for the trees to have brownish or purple tinge to them after a cold snap.

QUESTION: “I live in Maryland where the temperatures for the last two months were in the 50's and 60's. Now near we are finally having winter weather (20 - 30 degrees). However, my tulips and crocus are about four inches above ground. Is there anything I can do to protect them from the now freezing temperatures - or do I just let them go and hope for the best?
“I also noticed that some of my dogwood trees that I planted last year are beginning to get buds on them. What will this weird weather do to them? Thanks for any assistance you can give me.” – Pam Crawmer

ANSWER: This is happening all over and there just isn’t a lot you can do to prevent the bulbs from popping up early when the weather is as warm as it as been in many places this winter.
You can try covering them in a thick layer (3-4 inches) of mulch or taking a heavy cover, such as a tarp, and covering them, especially during the cold evenings that we are currently having. This might help to save some of your bulbs. Once they come up they die back and don’t generally produce any regrowth in the same spring. As far as they are concerned, they did their thing.
If you can’t do the mulch or tarp, dig some up and put them in pots for enjoying inside. They should still grow and run their course indoors where the temps are much warmer.

The same thing happens with trees or shrubs that are spring flowering: if they flower too early and are hit by cold weather knocking off the blooms, they will not bloom again this spring. Leaves will come out, but no blooms.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Climbing shrubs add zest to bare walls

Some friends of mine recently moved into a new home built on land that sloped away gently from front to back. This meant that there was a fairly large expanse of bare brick at the rear of the home that needed something to soften it up.
He asked my opinion and I had several ideas, some more obvious than others. Here is one of my suggestions that might not immediately spring to mind.
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)
This is a climber that seems to think it’s capable of scaling Mount Everest, if it wasn’t for the Nepalese climate. Yes, I’m exaggerating but this climbing hydrangea can grow to around 50 or 80 feet, so covering an expanse of wall shouldn’t be too tough an assignment.
It sports a rich, dense green foliage, and between May and July erupts in a mass of creamy white flowers. In the winter, the reddish-brown peeling bark is very attractive and the dried flower heads make attractive additions to seasonal floral arrangements.
In addition to bare brick walls, it works well on a trellis, a fence or a pergola and can make a very attractive groundcover, “climbing” horizontally.
I had some suggestions for my friends that would work well in other areas of their new landscape.
Little Bluestem 'The Blues'
Fans of Little Bluestem consider it to be among the bluest of ornamental grasses, and for good reason. In addition to the powder blue foliage found in The Blues has a trick up its sleeve for the early fall. In late summer you’ll suddenly notice large, finely textured, white flower panicles that seem to hover over the plant like a cloud. It makes a nice addition to the traditional fall palette of red, orange and gold.
In the winter, the brown stems add movement to an otherwise static landscape as they sway gently with the wind. The seed plumes last well into the winter, too, providing food for visiting birds.
I suggested The Blues to my friends for use as a perennial border, but it would also work well as part of a wild garden or adjacent to a water feature. It grows to around 4 feet tall and can make an effective screen when a row of Blues are planted about 3 feet apart.
GoldMound Spiraea
In the summer, this is a real dazzler. In full bloom, deep pink flowers cover the bronze to light green red-tipped foliage. In the spring, vibrant red shoots begin to emerge before assuming their bronze-green summer hues. In the fall, GoldMound’s russet tones will last well into November in most climates.
Goldmound spiraea is a deciduous dwarf shrub with a mature height between one and two feet, and makes an ideal three-season ground cover or a colorful filler.
At my friends’ home, the newly constructed wood fence was pleasant but not too inviting. I had a suggestion for the gate area leading from the driveway to the fenced back yard…
Mock Orange hedge form (Philadelphus virginalis mock orange)
Several hedge form Mock Orange shrubs planted two feet apart on both sides of the gate area would make an inviting entryway to the yard beyond.
This is one of the most popular of the mock oranges due to its remarkably powerful fragrance and pure white flowers that are evident from late spring to early summer. With a mature height of six to ten feet, the scale is ideal for entryways or lining a driveway.
Drop us an email if you want to know more about any of these plants or if you need some inspiration for your own landscape. www.GreenwoodNursery.com

Deciduous or evergreen? How to tell them apart

QUESTION: “When a description says the plant is deciduous, does that always mean it loses its leaves? Does it lose both its flowers and leaves or just flowers? I plan to landscape the front of our house, which faces east, and down the side of the house, which faces north. My husband and I want color and the foundation planting that will keep its leaves, which I always considered evergreen, but now I’m not so sure I’m understanding what to call different plants. How do I know what part of the plant is “deciduous”? Or is this a stupid question? I hope not. I just need help.” – Libby Sexton

ANSWER: It can be confusing sometimes. A deciduous plant (tree or shrub) will go dormant (its rest period) beginning when either the weather starts becoming colder (40’s to 50’s) or when an area experiences a hard frost (temperatures dropping below 32 degrees, usually overnight). It will begin to lose its leaves at this time. Blooming plants have specific periods when they bloom. They aren’t always in bloom. Many will bloom either in spring or summer.

“Evergreen” is used to describe plants (trees/shrubs) that do not go dormant and retain their leaves or needles. This generally refers to pines, spruces, boxwoods, junipers, yews and holly. Broadleaf evergreens are plants that retain leaves (very thick leaves) year round. But, they do shed the leaves periodically. This will apply to plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons and photinia.

Perennials are (usually) smaller plants which die completely back to the ground after cool weather or frost sets in, then return the following season. Annuals are plants that you have to set out every year as they will die completely. These include marigolds, pansies, geraniums, and other decorative often flowering plants.

QUESTION: “I have three holly bushes in shade (at least one female and at least one male, though I do not remember whether we have two males or two females), and they have had no berries for the last several years. What can I do to fix this problem?” – Janet Furey

ANSWER: Actually, this is one of the most frequent questions that I receive. I am so used to answering it that I guess I just didn't think about including it in the column or newsletter. Thanks' for the idea. But, so as not keep you in suspense, I'll share it with you now.

Not all hollies enjoy shade. If your varieties prefer sun, the shade can limit any blooming. You would have to move the plants.

One male plant can pollinate 4-6 female plants. But, both sexes must be in bloom at the same time and planted within 100 feet of each other. If several did produce berries at one time, the one holly bush that didn't have berries that year will be the male (male hollies don't produce berries).

Hollies don't usually begin flowering until after the 4th year. If your plants are younger, that might be the reason for no berries.

Hard frosts during their blooming period can cause the blooms to fall off before pollination. Cool and rainy spring weather will limit insects from pollinating effectively. Plants can be covered during blooming if cold weather is anticipated.

Recently I read that too much nitrogen in the soil can cause the blooms to fall off before pollination takes place. This can be caused not only from direct application of fertilizer to the plants, but run off from lawn and surrounding bed applications as well. Test your soil.

These are the most common reasons that holly shrubs will not produce fruit. I hope the list helps you find the cause of your plants not fruiting.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Add manure, compost now while plants are dormant

It seems that a lot of garden enthusiasts are really beginning to think about spring, judging by the volume of e-mailed questions arriving every day. If you have a question or a comment, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org I’ll do my best to respond quickly with a personal reply, and some of the Q&A’s will appear in this column or in my newsletter.

QUESTION: “I enjoy your column and Web site and have learned a lot. I have a huge perennial garden and was wondering how you add compost, fertilizer, black dirt, etc when the plants are so close together and I can't work the soil for fear of disturbing the plants. – Mary Jo Warren

ANSWER: Late winter/early spring is a great time to do this as the plants have died back to the ground and you don’t have branches/leaves to contend with. Mix aged manure/compost (I really like the Black Kow brand available in 50 lb bags at most hardware stores.) into the top portion of the soil, not disturbing the root systems.

You can also follow with some mulch at this time to keep the weed populations down. Early spring (just before your perennials begin to leaf out) is good to begin with a first application of fertilizer (especially if not adding in aged manure/compost mixture). A mild 5/10/5 slow release fertilizer applied in a ring around each plant with an additional 2 applications at 6 week intervals. Late bloomers will need an additional application in late summer. Broadcasting the fertilizer will also work as long as it doesn’t land on any leaves or in buds. Be sure to always water after fertilizing.

QUESTION: “I have a laceleaf weeping Japanese red maple. Should I prune it and if so when?”

ANSWER: I have one also and regularly prune it in March while the weather is still cool and it has not leafed out. Depending on where you are located, you may want to prune in February or March.

Clip out all of the dead branches/limbs as well as any that are touching or crossing over each other. When clipping back an entire branch for shaping, don’t clip flush with the trunk; leave a tiny nub (about ¼ inch out). Clipping flush with the trunk will leave a larger wound on the plant making it more susceptible to disease and fungus.

QUESTION: “I'm moving next week and my new house has everything I wanted except it's a little closer to a 55 mph highway that leads to the only mall in town than I would like. So, I'm looking for ways to lessen the annoyance of the traffic noise. My first inclination is to go with a fountain of some kind, so the water sounds will override the traffic sounds. But I'd also like to use some plants/landscaping to do more. What would you suggest?” – Carol Evans

ANSWER: A fountain might be a good idea for an alternate “sound source,” but you may still want some kind a growing barrier to baffle the traffic noise. I’m not sure where you are located but you might want to look at something like the cedar green giants. Then, on the inside of that “living fence,” you could add some interesting flowering shrubs.

QUESTION: “When is the best time to prune crepe myrtles? Also, when is the best time to trim azaleas?” – Chad Cornelius

ANSWER: Crape myrtles bloom the best on new growth, so prune them in late winter or early spring. On mature plants, you should be able to prune them back about 1/3 of their size. Azaleas should only be pruned immediately after they complete their blooming period.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Roses are top of mind as St. Valentine approaches

Roses are red Violets are blue, Better buy some for Sweetie Saint Valentine’s due.

As you read this, St. Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and as indicated in my little rhyme, above, one flower in particular is associated with February 14. Hint: It isn’t the violet.

Why is St. Valentine so closely identified with love, romance and roses?

Although Valentine’s Day has its origins in third-century Rome – one legend claims that Valentine was a priest who secretly performed marriage ceremonies for soldiers and their brides during a time when soldiers were forbidden to marry – it was not until the eighteenth century that lovers started sending cards or notes to each other to mark the holiday. Flowers didn’t come into vogue until greenhouses allowed growers to force flowers to bloom in the dead of winter.

I found that tidbit in a new book by Amy Stewart, titled “Flower Confidential.” Here are some more Valentine-related revelations from the book:

During the two weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, 12 to 15 million stems of Latin American flowers will arrive each day at Miami International Airport

Almost a third of American adults will buy flowers or a plant for Valentine’s Day. Roughly half of those people will purchase roses, mainly red roses.

Over a third of orders will be placed on February 13, and another 22% are called in on the holiday itself.

Americans buy 180 million roses for Valentine’s Day, and the average arrangement of a dozen roses costs just over $70.00.

In 2007, Valentine’s Day falls on a Wednesday. Flower sales peak when the holiday lands in the middle of the week, averaging $30,000 per shop.

A typical wage on an Ecuadorian flower farm is about $150.00 per month. Wages represent less than four cents for every rose sold.

Rose developers may spend seven years or more developing a new variety for market. An Australian team has been working for over ten years on developing a blue rose, using a pigment gene from petunias.

“Flower Confidential” contains more than just information on roses and Valentine’s Day, with hundreds of little known facts on the global flower market and tips and techniques to get the most out of your cut flowers. It is scheduled for publication February 9, 2007 by Algonquin Books.

However, the rose is the flower that is top of mind with everyone at this time of year. A couple of weeks ago in this column, I told you about some roses that are favorites of Cheryl’s and mine.

Just to remind you, they are collectively known as “Knockout Roses,” with varieties such as Knockout Red, Knockout Pink and Knockout Rainbow. All are delightful plants and don’t require a lot of fussing. If you missed that column or would like to read it again, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance.”

So here’s an idea. This year, how about planting some Knockout rose bushes for your sweetheart? Unlike a $70.00 bouquet that might only last a few days, tell your sweetie that, just like you love, these shrubs will last for years, growing stronger and more beautiful with each passing season. Now who could resist that?

Okay, it might be wise to also buy a sappy card and something personal. Only you can decide if “something personal” is a box of candy or a diamond bracelet. But for years of beauty in your garden, it’s hard to beat the vista of a beautiful grouping of colorful, fragrant rose bushes.

May you have a “blooming happy” St. Valentine’s Day!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Welcome spring with winter garden fix-ups

At this time of year, with the Holidays a fading memory, optimistic gardeners are already beginning to emerge from their winter hibernation and look forward to the spring that is just around the corner.

In many parts of the country, the winter is proving to be milder than expected, but it’s definitely not over just yet. However, this is a perfect time to take care of all those little projects that seem to fill us with the realization that spring really is on the way.


Tool time
If you didn’t get around to prepping the lawn mower for winter, at least you can get it ready for spring! A thorough cleaning out of the accumulated dried-on gunk from the underside is a minimum. A new spark plug is a good idea, and call around to see if any of your local lawn mower service places are offering a pre-season deal on blade sharpening.

Transplant now
If you have mature or near-mature trees and shrubs that will need to be moved to a new location, now would be a good time to transplant them. At this time of the year, plants are still dormant and far less likely to experience trauma from being moved.

Fertilizer? Not yet!
Avoid the temptation to fertilize newly set out trees and shrubs just yet. Wait until they show the first signs of growth, and then only fertilize very lightly for the first year of growth,

Bag the bagworms
If you have any narrow-leaf evergreens such as Junipers, check them for bagworm pouches. The insect eggs spend the winter in those pouches only to emerge in the spring and begin chomping away on the foliage. If you find any bagworm pouches, remove them by hand, place them carefully in a paper bag and burn them.

Pre-emptive strike on weeds
In case you hadn’t noticed, it’s quite possible that weeds are already appearing and might already be going to seed. Take the time now to carefully remove weeds before their seeds can scatter and you will save a lot of backbreaking labor later on. As you pull out each of the little pests, tell yourself you are preventing hundreds or even thousands of weeds from invading your landscape in the months ahead.

Slug ‘em
Speaking of pests, be on the lookout for slugs as well as weeds. Slugs may be slow-moving, but they are highly prolific and left alone can produce hundreds of little slugettes that quickly produce even more.

Clip and trim
January and February are good months to prune back most deciduous trees and shrubs if they’ve gotten to look a little unruly over the past season. You can now prune flowering, fruit and shade trees. Be sure to use good, sharp shears for a clean cut. However, avoid pruning spring flowering plants such as forsythia as you’ll simply be removing their spring flowers.

Armchair gardening
Now is the perfect time to select shrubs and trees for spring planting. Research using library books or, more conveniently, sit at your computer and browse online. Use your imagination and get creative!

Get inspired
Yes, a little self-promotion here, but I think you’ll find it helpful. Drop me an e-mail and I’ll be happy to give you a subscription to my free weekly newsletter. It’s a good way to keep focused on your garden, and most weeks you’ll find Q&A’s or tips from other readers. Simply send an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and put “newsletter” in the subject line.

A final thought
If your old Christmas tree is still lying around somewhere, here’s a good use for it. Cut off some of the branches and carefully lay them across any tender or early-flowering plants to protect them from a sudden cold snap.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.or

Remove dead leaves to prevent mold on pachysandra ground cover

QUESTION: “I planted pachysandra two years ago under heavy shade trees. It is doing so-so. I now have a lot of leaves and I would like to clean up the area with a blower. Should I cover the plants with leaves for the winter or blow away the leaves? The plants are about 8 inches high.” – Sam C.

ANSWER: Although pachysandra is a ground cover that loves organic soil, I would still blow the leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs as well.

The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.

It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a mowing, using the mower’s highest setting, in early spring only. A good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.

My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to a previous column.

QUESTION: “I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!” – Laura F.

ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.

Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn't hurt even when leaves are on the plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the leaves.

Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: “I was reading your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once inside your home. HELP!” – Don

ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring to probably are not “real” ladybugs, but migrating beetle bugs that really become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe someone else will have a solution.

And someone did!

COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now, three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. – Cassandra N.

These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance

Is this the year to add that rose garden to your landscape? Or would you like to see a colorful rose hedge softening the appearance of a backyard fence or bordering a driveway?

Perhaps you’ve been putting it off, believing that roses are tricky plants to grow and you’re not sure you’re up to the task. Yes, some roses have acquired a reputation for being finicky plants. But if you select the right varieties, you will find they are a lot less demanding than you think.

Cheryl and I particularly like the varieties collectively known as “Knockout Roses.” In fact, we have a Knockout rose hedge at our home that demands very little of our time and attention.

Rose, Knockout Red
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, disease-resistant, red shrub rose, this is probably the one you need. We’ve been amazed at its outstanding blooming capability. We’ve found that it will bloom from the early spring to the last frost in late fall. In 2004, it was designated the ARS Members Choice by the American Rose Society.

If you plant Knockout Red early in the season, you should see impressive repeat blooms the first year. In cooler weather, the blooms are a fluorescent fire-engine red, becoming a deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.

If you live in a humid area or tend to have fairly harsh, windy winters, you’ll find Knockout Red to be a hardy plant. Another benefit is that it is very resistant to the dreaded black spot and the tough leaves actually resist Japanese beetles.

Rose, Knockout Pink If you’d prefer a more delicate color, go for the Knockout Pink. Maturing into a neat 3’ x 3’ shrub, it sports bright pink blooms that stay throughout the growing season into late fall.

The petals fall cleanly so it doesn’t need deadheading. As with other Knockout varieties, the pink is disease-resistant, drought-tolerant and requires only 3 to 4 hours of sunlight a day.

Rose, Knockout Rainbow
The Rainbow is a fairly new addition to the Knockouts and is so named because it features lovely single blooms that change color as they mature. The blooms open orange from coral-pink buds, and then quickly turn soft coral-pink shading to gold at the base, surrounding a yellow center.

The blooms are about 2 inches wide and very colorful with a delightful scent of sweetbriar. It’s lovely to see a fully-blooming shrub, when the various colors of buds, new blooms, and mature flowers are present at once. When the blooms have passed, the shrub is covered with bright orange hips that will remain throughout the winter, attracting birds to your garden.

In addition to being an ideal choice for a hedge or driveway planting, Rainbow can add a ribbon of color to a perennial border or as a container plant.

Fairy Rose
While not a member of the Knockout Rose family, this one certainly deserves a mention. The Fairy has been around for a long time, 70 years or more, and can be seen at many of the country’s heritage gardens.

It produces delicate rosettes in clusters of pale pink from early spring until late frost. When the shrubs are spaced about 3 feet apart, they quickly mature into a solid 3 foot tall hedge of color in a sunny garden. Fairy would also be a nice focal point in a patio garden or as a colorful addition along a foundation.

You don’t have to be a dedicated rosarian to create a successful and colorful rose garden. Choose varieties, such as those I’ve described here, that are low-maintenance and disease resistant, and you can enjoy the sight and scent of roses all season with very little effort.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

It's a berry good time to select delicious fruiting plants

With the Holidays and the Winter Solstice behind us and the days slowly but surely growing longer as we head towards spring, we can start to enjoy mental images of gardens and landscapes alive with colors and aromas where now we see only bleak soil and dry branches!

Colors and aromas satisfy two of our senses – sight and smell. But why stop there when you can add taste to the sensual mix? Include small fruiting plants in your spring planting plans and you could soon, literally, be enjoying the fruits of your labor.

Here are a couple of suggestions that I hope will make your mouth water!

Blackberry Triple Crown Thornless

We recently discovered this relatively new blackberry and we quickly became enthusiasts. Yes, it really is thornless and that’s a big benefit to those of us whose hands and forearms seem to be magnets for little scratches when we work around our plants.

However, for us the “wow factor” came from the size of the fruit that this variety can produce, based on results achieved in agricultural testing. Triple Crown was tested extensively by agricultural research scientists before finally being offered to nurseries starting in 1996. Oregon State University trials found 8-year-old plants yielding 30 pounds or more of berries per plant.

The fruit is also suitable for juices, pies, syrups and preserves, according to puree trials by the Oregon testers. The name, by the way, doesn’t refer to horse racing. Rather it gets its name from its three crowning attributes: flavor, productivity and vigor.

Raspberry Anne Fall Gold

Anne Gold is a yellow-gold variety noted for its sweet flavor and great holding ability on the vine. It is described by horticulturists as ever-bearing: you’ll get a good crop around June and an even better crop in the fall. A nice benefit: Anne Fall stays firm and won’t turn to mush in your hands if you delay picking it for a day or two. Tests show that it resists powdery mildew, too. For correct pollination, plant Anne Gold close to some regular red raspberries.

Raspberries tolerates most soil types but prefers deep, well-drained, fertile soil. It is quite versatile and hardy in cold climates where other cane fruits tend to fail.

Blueberries

If you enjoy blueberries in fruit salads, muffins and pancakes, why not grow your own? To ensure good pollination, you need to plant at least two varieties, such as…

Sweetheart, a new variety of blueberry, suitable for USDA zones 4 to 8. This one ripens early with firm, nicely colored fruit that has a sweet taste. The bush itself can make an attractive and decorative hedge with its pink-tinged white spring flowers and vibrant yellow-gold fall foliage, in addition to the blue early to mid-summer fruit.

Blueray, a mid-season blueberry that is upright, productive and vigorous. We’ve found you can get about 20 pounds of fruit from a single plant over the course of a season, so you’d better have a really good muffin recipe. Blueray is considered a good pollinator for other highbush varieties.

Some of the fruiting plants I’ve described are quite new and might be tricky to track down. If you need some online shopping help, feel free to send me an e-mail.

Start planning now for many summers of delicious, home-grown fruit!