The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/26/06 - 03/04/06
(737 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Twisted and spiky or soft and sweet: more unusual spring planting ideas
"Tell me more!"
That's the reaction I've been getting in e-mail messages from readers of
recent columns about plant suggestions that are... well, off the beaten
path. So here are a few more "less-than-common" plants that you might want
to explore, if you're looking to add unique features to your landscape.
Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana Tortuosa)
A fascinating tree with an unusual and descriptive name. I have long
admired this tree but I'm surprised that not a lot of people know about it,
so I'm pleased to spread the word. The twisted, contorted branches are
nonetheless elegant, as with all willows, and it is a tree that has a
distinctive look for each season.
As spring turns to summer, I enjoy the sight of the bright green,
narrow-leaved foliage. In the fall, the foliage slowly turns yellow, and
throughout the winter I frequently take time to look at the contorted,
claw-like limbs and twigs. In fact, another name for the Corkscrew Willow
is Dragon's Claw and I can certainly understand why.
It's a strong, hardy tree that's quite easy to grow and tolerates almost any
soil, including wet soil with poor drainage. For a really dramatic effect,
you can clump two or three together and watch the claw-like limbs
intertwine. Trim back to a single stem if you want to line a driveway or a
property boundary. Corkscrew Willows are modest in height - between 20 and
30 ft at maturity with a spread of around 15 ft.
Giant Pussy Willow (Salix chaenomeloides)
Unlike the Corkscrew, this one is, of course, a shrub. The "giant" version
is quite spectacular (if you're only familiar with its smaller cousins)
growing to about 10 ft high. It produces silver-gray foliage in the summer
and glowing red bark in the winter that sprouts red buds in the early spring
that turn into rabbit's foot-size furry catkins.
All of which gives me an excuse to pass along the folk-tale origin of the
pussy willow...
According to a Polish legend, a mother cat was crying by a river in which
her little kittens were drowning. Moved by the cat's plight, the willows
that lined the river bank bent over and trailed their long branches in the
water. The kittens clung to the branches and were lifted to safety. And
now, each spring, the branches of the Pussy Willow sprout fur-like buds
where the kittens had clung and been rescued. Aaaaaaah..!
If you missed any of the previous columns with unusual planting suggestions,
you can find them all at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on
"The Plant Man" where you can scroll through the archives. Alternatively,
send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with a few details about your
landscape and the results you want to achieve and I'll give you some of my
personal recommendations.
Back to my "off the wall" plant ideas...
Flying Dragon (Poncirus trifoliata)
Thinking of the Dragon's Claw reminded me of this highly unusual plant,
Flying Dragon. This is another plant developed by the ingenious Don Shadow.
In fact I'm looking at one right now. Cheryl and I like this so much that
we potted one for the office! If you want to see a photo of it, drop me an
e-mail and I'll send you a picture.
Flying Dragon has dense, spiky limbs that can be very useful if you're
looking to plant a hedge that will deter people or animals from cutting
through and crossing your lawn! In fact, I've seen it used for just that
purpose on college campuses and public places such as zoos and parks.
In spring, Flying Dragon produces small white blooms that are very
attractive. It also produces a yellow fruit that is technically edible but,
frankly, far too sour for my taste! However, I'm happy to enjoy the
beautiful sight, both of the potted version and the hedge which will grow to
about 6 ft. It has extreme cold hardiness - to about 0 degrees Fahrenheit -
and has good blight resistance.
So... twisted, soft or spiky. The choice is yours. Don't settle for ho-hum
when you can let your landscape make a unique statement.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and
landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional
information, or to subscribe to Steve's free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go
to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Friday, February 17, 2006
New and useful plants from unique nurseryman, Don Shadow
There are some plants that just demand the description “unique.” They are remarkable, unlike anything you’ve seen before; as fascinating as they are unusual.
As rare as that description is for plants, it is even more uncommon to find a truly unique person. Fourth-generation nurseryman Don Shadow would strike most people as unique, but he doesn’t feel that description fits him or the many plant varietals that he has developed over the years.
Don describes these varietals not as unique but as “new and useful.” Several of Don’s plants are featured in the March 2006 edition of “Garden Design” magazine.
He has operated his own nursery in Winchester, Tennessee, since 1973, and it is there that many of these “new and useful” plants have first seen the light of day. In a moment I’ll describe a couple of my personal favorites from the Don Shadow repertoire that were spotlighted in “Garden Design,” but first more about this fascinating man...
Don’s interest and expertise extends beyond plants to the animal kingdom. There are more than 600 animals in 60 different species living and breeding under Don’s watchful eye.
He has 14 different species of deer and 46 camels, as well as antelope, zebras, tapirs, lemurs and many more.
Currently, Don is raising Chinese Red Panda babies, the first ever to be successfully bred by a private individual in the United States. Don works closely with zoos that regularly send him animals for breeding, based on his remarkable success record.
But whether it’s growing tender bamboo for his pandas or developing new varietals of fruit trees, Don’s first love remains in the realm of plants.
He dislikes calling his plants "unique" or "rare" as he believes words like that can be misleading and even create anxiety among amateur gardeners who might think that they wouldn’t have the necessary skill to grow such plants successfully.
"I focus on varietals that I describe as new and useful," Don told me recently. "These could be plants that are ideally suited to a particular location due to their color, form or habit."
Don travels extensively and has noticed that Americans are beginning to move towards planting styles already popular in countries such as Japan and England. "Smaller spaces need trees and shrubs that match the scale of those spaces," he points out. "Large, majestic trees just don’t work in the smaller landscapes we’re seeing now around newly-constructed homes."
Here are two of Don Shadow’s plants that were featured in “Garden Design” magazine:
Red Bud “Little Woody” The Little Woody is a very compact small grower with remarkably dark, gnarled and almost rubbery rugose green leaves. It can grow in full sun, partial sun or shade and will top out between 6 and 10 feet at maturity.
Red Bud “Ace of Hearts” Both the Ace of Hearts and the Little Woody bear the Latin name Cercis canadensis, and the Ace is reputed to be the first ever compact canadensis varietal. The name comes from the plant’s delightful heart-shaped leaves that are only half the size of “regular” Red Bud leaves, giving it a delightfully delicate appearance.
If you’re looking for something with spectacular color, try another Don Shadow Signature plant, the Red Bud Tennessee Pink. The name aptly describes the hot pink blooms that make a dramatic show in early spring. The pink looks particularly brilliant alongside another Shadow Red Bud, the Chinensis Alba. I would recommend all of these to gardeners who are “acreage-challenged” but still want unusual and delightful plants.
Be warned, they’re hard to find but well worth it and will have your neighbors asking, “Where did you find THAT?” Best bet: Go to www.google.com and type in Don Shadow Red Bud, or simply drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org.
I call them unique, even if Don insists they’re “new and useful.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
As rare as that description is for plants, it is even more uncommon to find a truly unique person. Fourth-generation nurseryman Don Shadow would strike most people as unique, but he doesn’t feel that description fits him or the many plant varietals that he has developed over the years.
Don describes these varietals not as unique but as “new and useful.” Several of Don’s plants are featured in the March 2006 edition of “Garden Design” magazine.
He has operated his own nursery in Winchester, Tennessee, since 1973, and it is there that many of these “new and useful” plants have first seen the light of day. In a moment I’ll describe a couple of my personal favorites from the Don Shadow repertoire that were spotlighted in “Garden Design,” but first more about this fascinating man...
Don’s interest and expertise extends beyond plants to the animal kingdom. There are more than 600 animals in 60 different species living and breeding under Don’s watchful eye.
He has 14 different species of deer and 46 camels, as well as antelope, zebras, tapirs, lemurs and many more.
Currently, Don is raising Chinese Red Panda babies, the first ever to be successfully bred by a private individual in the United States. Don works closely with zoos that regularly send him animals for breeding, based on his remarkable success record.
But whether it’s growing tender bamboo for his pandas or developing new varietals of fruit trees, Don’s first love remains in the realm of plants.
He dislikes calling his plants "unique" or "rare" as he believes words like that can be misleading and even create anxiety among amateur gardeners who might think that they wouldn’t have the necessary skill to grow such plants successfully.
"I focus on varietals that I describe as new and useful," Don told me recently. "These could be plants that are ideally suited to a particular location due to their color, form or habit."
Don travels extensively and has noticed that Americans are beginning to move towards planting styles already popular in countries such as Japan and England. "Smaller spaces need trees and shrubs that match the scale of those spaces," he points out. "Large, majestic trees just don’t work in the smaller landscapes we’re seeing now around newly-constructed homes."
Here are two of Don Shadow’s plants that were featured in “Garden Design” magazine:
Red Bud “Little Woody” The Little Woody is a very compact small grower with remarkably dark, gnarled and almost rubbery rugose green leaves. It can grow in full sun, partial sun or shade and will top out between 6 and 10 feet at maturity.
Red Bud “Ace of Hearts” Both the Ace of Hearts and the Little Woody bear the Latin name Cercis canadensis, and the Ace is reputed to be the first ever compact canadensis varietal. The name comes from the plant’s delightful heart-shaped leaves that are only half the size of “regular” Red Bud leaves, giving it a delightfully delicate appearance.
If you’re looking for something with spectacular color, try another Don Shadow Signature plant, the Red Bud Tennessee Pink. The name aptly describes the hot pink blooms that make a dramatic show in early spring. The pink looks particularly brilliant alongside another Shadow Red Bud, the Chinensis Alba. I would recommend all of these to gardeners who are “acreage-challenged” but still want unusual and delightful plants.
Be warned, they’re hard to find but well worth it and will have your neighbors asking, “Where did you find THAT?” Best bet: Go to www.google.com and type in Don Shadow Red Bud, or simply drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org.
I call them unique, even if Don insists they’re “new and useful.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/12/06 - 02/18/06
(643 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
What’s in a name? Some plants have acquired names that boast fascinating back-stories, while others have monikers that are so descriptive, they’re irresistible! Here are two of my favorite examples.
Degroots Spire arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
It’s fascinating to discover how plants came to be given certain names. Take arborvitae as an example. Translated from the Latin, it means “tree of life.” One might assume there is a spiritual or religious reason for a plant to be blessed with that name. However, the origin is far more down to earth.
According to legend or history (take your pick) the plant was named by the 16th century French explorer Jacques Cartier who learned from Native Americans that its foliage could be used to treat scurvy because of the high content of what we now call Vitamin C.
Scurvy particularly affected sailors who spent months at sea without access to fruits and vegetables. You might recall that the British navy learned to carry limes on long sea voyages for the same purpose, allegedly giving rise to the nickname “Limeys.”
Cartier noted that the Native Americans used the leaves in various medicines and boiled the foliage to make a medicinal tea. When he realized the restorative powers of the plant, it seemed only natural for him to dub it “the tree of life.”
Arborvitae is a cedar that comes in many varieties. One of my favorites is Degroot’s Spire. It is the ideal tree if you have a small or narrow area that needs some enhancement but cannot accommodate a wide-spreading tree. Degroot’s Spire will climb to a height of about 20 feet but has a spread of only 3 feet, resembling an elegant church spire or steeple pointing skywards.
Degroot’s Spire tolerates shearing to create a stately tailored column. You might have seen it planted in narrow spaces between tall buildings such as office complexes. For the homeowner, an ideal location would be between the house and garage or other outbuildings. It can also be very effective as a screen hedge.
The foliage is a dense, medium-green that takes on a purplish tinge in the winter. It can grow in direct sun or partial shade and has moderate water requirements. If you can’t locate Degroot’s Spire arborvitae locally, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll give you some shopping information.
Robust Male Fern (Dryopteris filx-mas undulata “Robusta”)
In this case, it’s not the Latin name that I find fascinating – it’s almost too long to remember, anyway – it’s the common name: Robust Male Fern! Some plants have names that sound downright sissy, but not this one. It sounds like it might get up and kick your butt if you’re not careful!
If the name brings to mind visions of John Wayne-style heroes, you’re not far off. This fern is a tough guy that is fairly self-sufficient, grows fast and stands tall: around 4 feet at maturity.
I like the way this fern really enhances the more colorful characters in a large herbaceous border. It can also come to your rescue (as tough-guy heroes should) if you need to prevent erosion on steep hillsides or riverbanks. It works well as a low-maintenance and attractive groundcover in a woodland setting when you want a natural, rugged look.
Robust Male Ferns thrive in cool, moist, shaded locations, the long, leathery fronds unfurling in shades of yellow-green, maturing to a deep emerald.
If you like to mix and match, consider adding similar plants such as Japanese Holly Fern or Shield Fern. As always, let me know if you need help finding these plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 02/12/06 - 02/18/06
(643 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Creative plant names add fun to your landscape
What’s in a name? Some plants have acquired names that boast fascinating back-stories, while others have monikers that are so descriptive, they’re irresistible! Here are two of my favorite examples.
Degroots Spire arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
It’s fascinating to discover how plants came to be given certain names. Take arborvitae as an example. Translated from the Latin, it means “tree of life.” One might assume there is a spiritual or religious reason for a plant to be blessed with that name. However, the origin is far more down to earth.
According to legend or history (take your pick) the plant was named by the 16th century French explorer Jacques Cartier who learned from Native Americans that its foliage could be used to treat scurvy because of the high content of what we now call Vitamin C.
Scurvy particularly affected sailors who spent months at sea without access to fruits and vegetables. You might recall that the British navy learned to carry limes on long sea voyages for the same purpose, allegedly giving rise to the nickname “Limeys.”
Cartier noted that the Native Americans used the leaves in various medicines and boiled the foliage to make a medicinal tea. When he realized the restorative powers of the plant, it seemed only natural for him to dub it “the tree of life.”
Arborvitae is a cedar that comes in many varieties. One of my favorites is Degroot’s Spire. It is the ideal tree if you have a small or narrow area that needs some enhancement but cannot accommodate a wide-spreading tree. Degroot’s Spire will climb to a height of about 20 feet but has a spread of only 3 feet, resembling an elegant church spire or steeple pointing skywards.
Degroot’s Spire tolerates shearing to create a stately tailored column. You might have seen it planted in narrow spaces between tall buildings such as office complexes. For the homeowner, an ideal location would be between the house and garage or other outbuildings. It can also be very effective as a screen hedge.
The foliage is a dense, medium-green that takes on a purplish tinge in the winter. It can grow in direct sun or partial shade and has moderate water requirements. If you can’t locate Degroot’s Spire arborvitae locally, send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll give you some shopping information.
Robust Male Fern (Dryopteris filx-mas undulata “Robusta”)
In this case, it’s not the Latin name that I find fascinating – it’s almost too long to remember, anyway – it’s the common name: Robust Male Fern! Some plants have names that sound downright sissy, but not this one. It sounds like it might get up and kick your butt if you’re not careful!
If the name brings to mind visions of John Wayne-style heroes, you’re not far off. This fern is a tough guy that is fairly self-sufficient, grows fast and stands tall: around 4 feet at maturity.
I like the way this fern really enhances the more colorful characters in a large herbaceous border. It can also come to your rescue (as tough-guy heroes should) if you need to prevent erosion on steep hillsides or riverbanks. It works well as a low-maintenance and attractive groundcover in a woodland setting when you want a natural, rugged look.
Robust Male Ferns thrive in cool, moist, shaded locations, the long, leathery fronds unfurling in shades of yellow-green, maturing to a deep emerald.
If you like to mix and match, consider adding similar plants such as Japanese Holly Fern or Shield Fern. As always, let me know if you need help finding these plants.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 02/05/06 - 02/11/06
(765 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
Watering a tree sounds like a no-brainer, doesn’t it? But trees, particularly new, young trees, can suffer irreparable damage when they are subjected to incorrect or insufficient watering. Here is a question from a reader about that very subject, as well as some ideas about removing the pesky stumps of a holly bush!
QUESTION: “I had planted two new trees in April, a redbud and an apple serviceberry. Neither came with any instructions about watering. The redbud has a circumference of 5 inches and the serviceberry 5 1/2 inches. Please give me an idea of how much and often to water them.
“Also, are new trees not to be fertilized for a couple years? Should I be doing root stimulator applications on them both and for how long? While on trees topic when is the best time to have Bradford trees pruned?” – a reader
ANSWER: The best rule of thumb for new trees is to make sure the root ball is moist until the tree or shrub grows through the first season. To do this you can purchase a product from a company called Jobe. They manufacture a tree spike that attaches to a regular garden hose. Directions come with the spike.
If you cannot find this product, take a 1 to 2 inch PVC pipe and hammer into the root ball but at the farthest point from the trunk of the tree. Be careful not to hammer into any large root of the new tree. Make sure the root ball is damp at least once a week during the first season.
A lot of folks think by watering the top of the ground that the roots of the tree are getting watered and that is simply not the case. To prove it to yourself, water the ground for a few minutes then dig down to see how far the water has traveled. You will be amazed at how short a distance the water has penetrated.
You can treat your new trees with a fertilizer that stimulates root growth. Ask for it at your local garden center.
The best time to trim trees is when they are dormant: late fall when they drop their leaves or early spring before the leaves appear.
QUESTION: “We recently removed some (old) holly bushes from the front of our house. My husband chain sawed them down. Well, now I have about 3" of stump remaining from the ground and I keep getting new holly growth all over. I have to keep clipping to control. We put a poison into the stumps (after drilling holes) but they are still there. I want to till up the whole area in front of house and replant some shrubs or flowers. How can I make sure I kill the root, stump and any other new growth?”– Ginnie Mercer
ANSWER: I know there are several products out there that you can purchase from your local garden store. However, in order for you to do this quickly you may have to dig them out. Since they are a three inch caliper you will have to back away from the stump about two feet with a spade and start digging. You use a spade to cut the roots all the way around the trunk then dig down and lift up. This is the fastest way to accomplish your task. It will take quite a while for poisons to kill and rot the stump enough to till the ground.
After that Q and A appeared in a recent edition of my weekly e-mailed newsletter, I received the following comment from a reader:
COMMENT: “About those stumps from the hollies, I have a suggestion that might help until it's warm enough to dig those stumps out... She can pour a big bag of high nitrogen fertilizer over the stumps and roots area, cover that with wet newspaper and then top it with plastic to keep it
moist. As you know, this will help rot and "soften" the stumps and roots for easier digging in spring.” – Teri
ANSWER: It would seem on the surface a great solution. I will post your comment on my Web site and share it with our readers. Do you have comments or suggestions to share with other readers of this column? Send your ideas to me via e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 02/05/06 - 02/11/06
(765 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Watering trees not always as simple as it seems!
Watering a tree sounds like a no-brainer, doesn’t it? But trees, particularly new, young trees, can suffer irreparable damage when they are subjected to incorrect or insufficient watering. Here is a question from a reader about that very subject, as well as some ideas about removing the pesky stumps of a holly bush!
QUESTION: “I had planted two new trees in April, a redbud and an apple serviceberry. Neither came with any instructions about watering. The redbud has a circumference of 5 inches and the serviceberry 5 1/2 inches. Please give me an idea of how much and often to water them.
“Also, are new trees not to be fertilized for a couple years? Should I be doing root stimulator applications on them both and for how long? While on trees topic when is the best time to have Bradford trees pruned?” – a reader
ANSWER: The best rule of thumb for new trees is to make sure the root ball is moist until the tree or shrub grows through the first season. To do this you can purchase a product from a company called Jobe. They manufacture a tree spike that attaches to a regular garden hose. Directions come with the spike.
If you cannot find this product, take a 1 to 2 inch PVC pipe and hammer into the root ball but at the farthest point from the trunk of the tree. Be careful not to hammer into any large root of the new tree. Make sure the root ball is damp at least once a week during the first season.
A lot of folks think by watering the top of the ground that the roots of the tree are getting watered and that is simply not the case. To prove it to yourself, water the ground for a few minutes then dig down to see how far the water has traveled. You will be amazed at how short a distance the water has penetrated.
You can treat your new trees with a fertilizer that stimulates root growth. Ask for it at your local garden center.
The best time to trim trees is when they are dormant: late fall when they drop their leaves or early spring before the leaves appear.
QUESTION: “We recently removed some (old) holly bushes from the front of our house. My husband chain sawed them down. Well, now I have about 3" of stump remaining from the ground and I keep getting new holly growth all over. I have to keep clipping to control. We put a poison into the stumps (after drilling holes) but they are still there. I want to till up the whole area in front of house and replant some shrubs or flowers. How can I make sure I kill the root, stump and any other new growth?”– Ginnie Mercer
ANSWER: I know there are several products out there that you can purchase from your local garden store. However, in order for you to do this quickly you may have to dig them out. Since they are a three inch caliper you will have to back away from the stump about two feet with a spade and start digging. You use a spade to cut the roots all the way around the trunk then dig down and lift up. This is the fastest way to accomplish your task. It will take quite a while for poisons to kill and rot the stump enough to till the ground.
After that Q and A appeared in a recent edition of my weekly e-mailed newsletter, I received the following comment from a reader:
COMMENT: “About those stumps from the hollies, I have a suggestion that might help until it's warm enough to dig those stumps out... She can pour a big bag of high nitrogen fertilizer over the stumps and roots area, cover that with wet newspaper and then top it with plastic to keep it
moist. As you know, this will help rot and "soften" the stumps and roots for easier digging in spring.” – Teri
ANSWER: It would seem on the surface a great solution. I will post your comment on my Web site and share it with our readers. Do you have comments or suggestions to share with other readers of this column? Send your ideas to me via e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 25, 2006
These “shady characters” keep you cool and save some green
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 01/29/06 - 02/04/06
(642 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
These “shady characters” keep you cool and save some green
Trees keep you cooler and reduce energy bills. And besides... trees are a beautiful part of your landscape!
Last week in this column, I described the Urban Heat Island Effect and what you and I can do to counteract it. Today, I will describe some ideal trees that will add beauty to your home and reduce the number of dollar bills flying out your wallet.
If you still need convincing that trees = lower temperatures, just ask NASA. Using aerial surveillance, they measured the temperatures in many locations across America. In one example, they looked at the Madison Square Mall in Huntsville, AL. In wooded areas surrounding the mall, the temperature was about 85 F, while the temperature of the blacktopped parking lot was a steamy 119.8 F. However, a "tree island", a small planter containing a couple of trees in the parking lot was only 88.8F. So, even a small area of tree coverage surrounded by a very hot parking lot reduced temperatures by a significant 31F.
So you don’t need a forest to make a difference. You can find the full report at NASA’s Web site http://www.ghcc.msfc.nasa.gov/land/heatisl/heatisl.htm and you can click on a direct hot link from this column archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can also read last week’s column if you missed it.
Not only can trees provide shade for your home, but thoughtfully planned trees can also shade driveways, parking area and garage roofs that would otherwise become “heat radiators.”
Which trees should you choose? Pick the wrong trees and you’ve created a long-term problem. You need to look at the height and spread of any tree you’re considering and also be aware of any overhead or underground utilities.
Here are a few quick suggestions, but as they say in TV commercials, “Your results may vary,” so I invite you to send a few details to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll offer some personal advice.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
A great choice for large lawn areas, and you’ll often see it on golf courses. A slow grower, it’ll reach 75 - 100 ft and prefers well drained, moderately moist fertile soil.
Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
It’s hard to go wrong with this beauty, one of the most famous shade trees. Breathtaking crimson fall color! A good choice if your needs run to a smaller tree as this one tops out at around 30 - 50 ft.
Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsyulvanica)
If you need a faster grower, the Green Ash might be a good choice. It has moderate water requirements and tolerates salt and alkali soils, with a mature height between 50 and 75 ft.
White Oak (Quercus alba)
Be advised that these guys are massive, often soaring up to 140 ft. They are an investment that’ll be there for future generations to enjoy. The name comes from the whitish bark and grey-white branches.
Red Baron Willow hybrid
Can’t wait? The Red Baron is one of the fastest-growing trees you can find, shooting up about 6 ft a year to a maximum height of around 70 ft. It’s not easy to find, so search Google, or contact me via e-mail.
One last “off the wall” idea...
Bald Cypress Peve Minaret
Okay, it’s not a shade tree (topping out at around 8 ft) but an unusual and beautiful way to accent your landscape. The dense branching will highlight the entrance to a secret garden or around your foundation. Hard to find but worth it, so contact me if you can’t locate it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 01/29/06 - 02/04/06
(642 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
These “shady characters” keep you cool and save some green
Trees keep you cooler and reduce energy bills. And besides... trees are a beautiful part of your landscape!
Last week in this column, I described the Urban Heat Island Effect and what you and I can do to counteract it. Today, I will describe some ideal trees that will add beauty to your home and reduce the number of dollar bills flying out your wallet.
If you still need convincing that trees = lower temperatures, just ask NASA. Using aerial surveillance, they measured the temperatures in many locations across America. In one example, they looked at the Madison Square Mall in Huntsville, AL. In wooded areas surrounding the mall, the temperature was about 85 F, while the temperature of the blacktopped parking lot was a steamy 119.8 F. However, a "tree island", a small planter containing a couple of trees in the parking lot was only 88.8F. So, even a small area of tree coverage surrounded by a very hot parking lot reduced temperatures by a significant 31F.
So you don’t need a forest to make a difference. You can find the full report at NASA’s Web site http://www.ghcc.msfc.nasa.gov/land/heatisl/heatisl.htm and you can click on a direct hot link from this column archived under the Plant Man heading at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can also read last week’s column if you missed it.
Not only can trees provide shade for your home, but thoughtfully planned trees can also shade driveways, parking area and garage roofs that would otherwise become “heat radiators.”
Which trees should you choose? Pick the wrong trees and you’ve created a long-term problem. You need to look at the height and spread of any tree you’re considering and also be aware of any overhead or underground utilities.
Here are a few quick suggestions, but as they say in TV commercials, “Your results may vary,” so I invite you to send a few details to steve@landsteward.org and I’ll offer some personal advice.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
A great choice for large lawn areas, and you’ll often see it on golf courses. A slow grower, it’ll reach 75 - 100 ft and prefers well drained, moderately moist fertile soil.
Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
It’s hard to go wrong with this beauty, one of the most famous shade trees. Breathtaking crimson fall color! A good choice if your needs run to a smaller tree as this one tops out at around 30 - 50 ft.
Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsyulvanica)
If you need a faster grower, the Green Ash might be a good choice. It has moderate water requirements and tolerates salt and alkali soils, with a mature height between 50 and 75 ft.
White Oak (Quercus alba)
Be advised that these guys are massive, often soaring up to 140 ft. They are an investment that’ll be there for future generations to enjoy. The name comes from the whitish bark and grey-white branches.
Red Baron Willow hybrid
Can’t wait? The Red Baron is one of the fastest-growing trees you can find, shooting up about 6 ft a year to a maximum height of around 70 ft. It’s not easy to find, so search Google, or contact me via e-mail.
One last “off the wall” idea...
Bald Cypress Peve Minaret
Okay, it’s not a shade tree (topping out at around 8 ft) but an unusual and beautiful way to accent your landscape. The dense branching will highlight the entrance to a secret garden or around your foundation. Hard to find but worth it, so contact me if you can’t locate it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, January 20, 2006
It’s official: Trees are GOOD for you!
Those of us who enjoy the outdoors have always known that being around trees somehow makes us feel better. The sound of the rustling leaves, the sight of the dappled sun light filtering through the gently swaying branches. The cooling shade from the summer’s heat...
Aha!
One of the major issues confronting environmentalists (and thus, all of us) is a phenomenon known as Urban Heat Island Effect. We’ll call it UHIE to save space.
What is UHIE? In a nutshell, the air in urban areas can be 6 to 8 degrees warmer than in surrounding rural and suburban areas, particularly in the summer. Apart from being uncomfortable, UHIE increases pollution, reduces air quality and increases energy use (and cost) as we crank up the air conditioning as a counter-measure. So UHIE is bad for the environment, bad for our health and bad for our pocket book.
But there is some good news. This is one of those rare problems where we can all make a change for the better. Not just for the world at large, but also for the little piece of the world that we call home!
Causes of the Heat Island Effect include dark surfaces – that absorb heat from the sun – and a lack of sufficient vegetation.
Traditionally, roofing and pavement tend to be constructed of dark materials (think “blacktop”). An online report by the Heat Island Group suggests that cities would save enormous sums of money by changing what’s known as “roof reflectivity.” How much? Los Angeles would see a net energy saving of $35M and Phoenix would save $37M. But savings would also be seen in the cooler northern areas of the country: $16M for New York and $10M for Chicago.
Roads, sidewalks and driveways coated with dark asphalt can be as much as 70 degrees hotter than similar white or light-colored surfaces because sunlight is absorbed by the blacktop and converted to thermal energy.
Even though you, personally, can’t do much about Los Angeles or Phoenix, you CAN make a difference in your own back yard, literally, by replacing blacktop driveways and walkways with what is called “low albedo” pavement, and planning to switch to lighter-colored roofing when that project becomes due.
In addition to that hardscaping, you can make a major and noticeable improvement to your own environment by planting... trees! Research by leading academic institutions and government agencies continues to show that planting trees will lower the temperature in and around your home and, as a consequence, reduce your energy bills.
There is one very convincing reason to plant trees on your land: Evapotranspiration. Trees transpire water through their leaves, cooling the surrounding air. A single mature tree with a 30ft canopy can transpire as much as 40 gallons a day.
According to the Department of Energy, just three trees planted around a house can save between $100 and $250 annually in heating and cooling costs. (I would guess the savings would be even higher, given current energy costs.)
And here’s another interesting fact: Ambient temperatures are 3 to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods. As well as being cooler, homes located on streets lined with mature trees are more attractive and have greater “curb appeal” when it’s time to sell.
If your hometown is woefully lacking in trees, you can do something about it. Find out if there’s a neighborhood tree project. If not, think about getting together with your neighbors and starting one. When you add up the benefits – lower energy costs, aesthetic enhancement, improved resale prices – your neighbors are likely to share your enthusiasm! You can find a lot of information online by going to Google and typing in “neighborhood tree projects.”
Which trees work best to provide shade, save you energy, enhance the environment and are pleasing to the eye? In the next Plant Man column, I will discuss some of my favorites that will provide a feeling of tranquility and keep more of your hard-earned money in the bank!
Meanwhile, here are two useful Web sites I referred to in this column: http://eetd.lbl.gov/HeatIsland/LEARN/ and
http://www.energy.gov/news/1652.htm You can click on a direct link to both those Web sites (and more) when you go to www.landsteward.org and find this column under “The Plant Man” heading.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Aha!
One of the major issues confronting environmentalists (and thus, all of us) is a phenomenon known as Urban Heat Island Effect. We’ll call it UHIE to save space.
What is UHIE? In a nutshell, the air in urban areas can be 6 to 8 degrees warmer than in surrounding rural and suburban areas, particularly in the summer. Apart from being uncomfortable, UHIE increases pollution, reduces air quality and increases energy use (and cost) as we crank up the air conditioning as a counter-measure. So UHIE is bad for the environment, bad for our health and bad for our pocket book.
But there is some good news. This is one of those rare problems where we can all make a change for the better. Not just for the world at large, but also for the little piece of the world that we call home!
Causes of the Heat Island Effect include dark surfaces – that absorb heat from the sun – and a lack of sufficient vegetation.
Traditionally, roofing and pavement tend to be constructed of dark materials (think “blacktop”). An online report by the Heat Island Group suggests that cities would save enormous sums of money by changing what’s known as “roof reflectivity.” How much? Los Angeles would see a net energy saving of $35M and Phoenix would save $37M. But savings would also be seen in the cooler northern areas of the country: $16M for New York and $10M for Chicago.
Roads, sidewalks and driveways coated with dark asphalt can be as much as 70 degrees hotter than similar white or light-colored surfaces because sunlight is absorbed by the blacktop and converted to thermal energy.
Even though you, personally, can’t do much about Los Angeles or Phoenix, you CAN make a difference in your own back yard, literally, by replacing blacktop driveways and walkways with what is called “low albedo” pavement, and planning to switch to lighter-colored roofing when that project becomes due.
In addition to that hardscaping, you can make a major and noticeable improvement to your own environment by planting... trees! Research by leading academic institutions and government agencies continues to show that planting trees will lower the temperature in and around your home and, as a consequence, reduce your energy bills.
There is one very convincing reason to plant trees on your land: Evapotranspiration. Trees transpire water through their leaves, cooling the surrounding air. A single mature tree with a 30ft canopy can transpire as much as 40 gallons a day.
According to the Department of Energy, just three trees planted around a house can save between $100 and $250 annually in heating and cooling costs. (I would guess the savings would be even higher, given current energy costs.)
And here’s another interesting fact: Ambient temperatures are 3 to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods. As well as being cooler, homes located on streets lined with mature trees are more attractive and have greater “curb appeal” when it’s time to sell.
If your hometown is woefully lacking in trees, you can do something about it. Find out if there’s a neighborhood tree project. If not, think about getting together with your neighbors and starting one. When you add up the benefits – lower energy costs, aesthetic enhancement, improved resale prices – your neighbors are likely to share your enthusiasm! You can find a lot of information online by going to Google and typing in “neighborhood tree projects.”
Which trees work best to provide shade, save you energy, enhance the environment and are pleasing to the eye? In the next Plant Man column, I will discuss some of my favorites that will provide a feeling of tranquility and keep more of your hard-earned money in the bank!
Meanwhile, here are two useful Web sites I referred to in this column: http://eetd.lbl.gov/HeatIsland/LEARN/ and
http://www.energy.gov/news/1652.htm You can click on a direct link to both those Web sites (and more) when you go to www.landsteward.org and find this column under “The Plant Man” heading.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, January 12, 2006
Pandas and pygmies and kings, oh my! Some more new plant ideas
The trouble with “new” ideas is that they’ll always be “old” to anyone who already knew about them. I received quite a lot of e-mail from readers following my recent column that featured plant suggestions that were a little out of the ordinary. As I had guessed, some readers were already familiar with my recommendations. But even for the most knowledgeable horticulturist, it’s good to be reminded of plants we might not have considered for a while.
In fact, when Cheryl read that column, she reminded me of several other plants that have caught our interest recently, and today I’ll describe some of them in case you’re still looking at fresh ideas for spring planting.
But first, if you missed that previous column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on “The Plant Man” and look for the column titled “Some new plant ideas for the new year.”
And now to this week’s planting ideas.
Crimson Pygmy (Berberis thunbergii)
As the name suggests, this is a dwarf variety of Japanese barberry. I am fascinated by this plant, mainly because of the leaves which will develop a hue of deep crimson in direct sunlight but will turn to a lighter red or even green as shade increases.
In spring you’ll just be able to see tiny gold-tinged flowers and in the fall small red berries will appear that will usually remain throughout most of the winter. At maturity, they grow to about three feet high with a three foot spread. Crimson Pygmy can be planted alone or grouped to make a low hedge or to surround a garden feature such as a birdbath.
Green Panda (Fargesia rufa)
If you lived in Western Sichuan province in China and you planted Fargesia rufa, you might have to find a way to keep pandas out of your back yard because they find this variety particularly succulent! However, that probably won’t be a problem for you if you live in the United States where this variety is a relative newcomer.
Green Panda is ideal if you’re looking for a screen or an unusual hedge that will grow to about eight feet in height. I like the way the orange-red sheaths are set off by the deep green leaves. This non-running evergreen could add a unique flair to your landscape, but might not be easy to find. If you’re having difficulty finding a supplier, drop me an e-mail.
Lily of the Kings (Iris pseudacorus)
Legend has it that this iris was the inspiration for the Fleur de Lys, the symbol found on the coat of arms of numerous French kings. Whether or not that’s true, this plant will certainly add a sense of nobility to your landscape particularly if you have a pond or a water feature.
Lily of the Kings thrives in wet areas and marshlands and I’ve seen some landscapers plant it, in containers, directly into a shallow pond. The heavy, grass-like blades will grow to a height of four to six feet, and the cut flowers make beautiful arrangements, both fresh and dried. If you have been wondering what to plant in that “wet” area, this might be your solution.
Royal Standard Hosta
Don’t quit reading just yet! Yes, I’m sure you’re familiar with the Hosta, perhaps the most popular perennial groundcover. However, there are many Hosta varieties and at least one might be just different enough to appeal to you. Take the Royal Standard, for example.
The deep green foliage will grow to about 24 inches high with a 30 inch spread. I really like the extra-fragrant funnel-shaped white flowers that bloom in July and August. Let it bask in morning sun and cool in evening shade and it will flourish. As a point of interest, the Royal Standard was the first ever patented Hosta and was introduced in 1965.
Need more personal suggestions for spring planting? Send me an e-mail and I’ll try to give you some specific ideas.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
In fact, when Cheryl read that column, she reminded me of several other plants that have caught our interest recently, and today I’ll describe some of them in case you’re still looking at fresh ideas for spring planting.
But first, if you missed that previous column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on “The Plant Man” and look for the column titled “Some new plant ideas for the new year.”
And now to this week’s planting ideas.
Crimson Pygmy (Berberis thunbergii)
As the name suggests, this is a dwarf variety of Japanese barberry. I am fascinated by this plant, mainly because of the leaves which will develop a hue of deep crimson in direct sunlight but will turn to a lighter red or even green as shade increases.
In spring you’ll just be able to see tiny gold-tinged flowers and in the fall small red berries will appear that will usually remain throughout most of the winter. At maturity, they grow to about three feet high with a three foot spread. Crimson Pygmy can be planted alone or grouped to make a low hedge or to surround a garden feature such as a birdbath.
Green Panda (Fargesia rufa)
If you lived in Western Sichuan province in China and you planted Fargesia rufa, you might have to find a way to keep pandas out of your back yard because they find this variety particularly succulent! However, that probably won’t be a problem for you if you live in the United States where this variety is a relative newcomer.
Green Panda is ideal if you’re looking for a screen or an unusual hedge that will grow to about eight feet in height. I like the way the orange-red sheaths are set off by the deep green leaves. This non-running evergreen could add a unique flair to your landscape, but might not be easy to find. If you’re having difficulty finding a supplier, drop me an e-mail.
Lily of the Kings (Iris pseudacorus)
Legend has it that this iris was the inspiration for the Fleur de Lys, the symbol found on the coat of arms of numerous French kings. Whether or not that’s true, this plant will certainly add a sense of nobility to your landscape particularly if you have a pond or a water feature.
Lily of the Kings thrives in wet areas and marshlands and I’ve seen some landscapers plant it, in containers, directly into a shallow pond. The heavy, grass-like blades will grow to a height of four to six feet, and the cut flowers make beautiful arrangements, both fresh and dried. If you have been wondering what to plant in that “wet” area, this might be your solution.
Royal Standard Hosta
Don’t quit reading just yet! Yes, I’m sure you’re familiar with the Hosta, perhaps the most popular perennial groundcover. However, there are many Hosta varieties and at least one might be just different enough to appeal to you. Take the Royal Standard, for example.
The deep green foliage will grow to about 24 inches high with a 30 inch spread. I really like the extra-fragrant funnel-shaped white flowers that bloom in July and August. Let it bask in morning sun and cool in evening shade and it will flourish. As a point of interest, the Royal Standard was the first ever patented Hosta and was introduced in 1965.
Need more personal suggestions for spring planting? Send me an e-mail and I’ll try to give you some specific ideas.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, January 05, 2006
Prepare now for a lush, green, and fragrant spring
If you were ever in the Boy Scouts, or you have a son who is, then you’ll know the famous motto of that organization: “Be prepared.”
It’s a lesson I’ve sometimes had to learn the hard way. Perhaps, like me, you’ve waited until the last minute to make reservations at a restaurant or a hotel, only to find you’ve left it too late and you’re disappointed.
So today I am going to encourage you to take a leaf out of the Scouting Manual and... Be prepared!
With the Holidays behind us and spring still a few week away, this is the perfect time to prepare for the planting season ahead. Yes, it is tempting to wait until spring is almost upon us. But take some time now to prepare and you won’t be disappointed later. The good news is that much of this preparation can be done while you relax in your favorite armchair with a cup of cocoa (or something stronger) close at hand!
Plan your garden
Ready for a new look? Get a few sheets of 1/4 inch grid paper and roughly draw the shape of your landscape. Start by sketching in items that can’t be moved, such as large trees, walls, your garage and so on. Now sketch in areas where you might add new beds or change the shape or location of existing beds. Some new specimen trees? An evergreen privacy hedge? A water feature? Add ‘em in. Use a pencil, so you can erase and start over where necessary.
And remember: there’s no rule that says everything has to be planted in straight lines. An area of lawn curving between perennial beds and flowering trees can be a delightful change from a solid slab of grass. There are some helpful tips on landscape layout and planning in previous Plant Man columns archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the archived columns under The Plant Man heading.
Mouse through the flora
Get some inspiration online. Use Yahoo or Google to find information and pictures of plants you’ve heard about and find out if they’d fit in with your new plans. You can find enormous amounts of planting tips and independent advice, and you can check to see if a particular plant will thrive in your hardiness zone. And then you can place plant orders via the Internet without ever leaving home.
Keep a record
If you get those free calendars in the mail, take one of them and start writing down information that you’ll need every year, to save having to figure it out year after year. For example, it would be a good idea to note the projected dates for the first and last frosts, how much fertilizer you need each year for your lawn, and the date you spread it, and so on. You can also note the number of plants you buy for your container gardens, to avoid over- or under-buying next year.
Try something new
Tired of the same old, same old? Prepare now for something new and different. Because the unusual plants are often in short supply, you definitely want to prepare now by researching and ordering your”out of the ordinary” plants.
In my previous column, titled “Some new plant ideas for the new year,” I suggested some that you might find interesting. If you missed that column, you can find it saved at my Web site. As always, you’re welcome to contact me at steve@landsteward.org if you need any personal advice or suggestions.
Find fallen branches
At this time of year, the weather can often bring down anything from small twigs to large branches. When they’re left there all winter, they can traumatize your lawn, and may cause a tripping hazard to children or pets playing in the yard, particularly if hidden by snow or frost. Your lawn will benefit in the spring from your preparedness now, and you might end up with some kindling for your fireplace, too.
Think green!
Best of all, prepare mentally by imagining how lush, fragrant and beautiful your landscape will be, mere weeks from today!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
It’s a lesson I’ve sometimes had to learn the hard way. Perhaps, like me, you’ve waited until the last minute to make reservations at a restaurant or a hotel, only to find you’ve left it too late and you’re disappointed.
So today I am going to encourage you to take a leaf out of the Scouting Manual and... Be prepared!
With the Holidays behind us and spring still a few week away, this is the perfect time to prepare for the planting season ahead. Yes, it is tempting to wait until spring is almost upon us. But take some time now to prepare and you won’t be disappointed later. The good news is that much of this preparation can be done while you relax in your favorite armchair with a cup of cocoa (or something stronger) close at hand!
Plan your garden
Ready for a new look? Get a few sheets of 1/4 inch grid paper and roughly draw the shape of your landscape. Start by sketching in items that can’t be moved, such as large trees, walls, your garage and so on. Now sketch in areas where you might add new beds or change the shape or location of existing beds. Some new specimen trees? An evergreen privacy hedge? A water feature? Add ‘em in. Use a pencil, so you can erase and start over where necessary.
And remember: there’s no rule that says everything has to be planted in straight lines. An area of lawn curving between perennial beds and flowering trees can be a delightful change from a solid slab of grass. There are some helpful tips on landscape layout and planning in previous Plant Man columns archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the archived columns under The Plant Man heading.
Mouse through the flora
Get some inspiration online. Use Yahoo or Google to find information and pictures of plants you’ve heard about and find out if they’d fit in with your new plans. You can find enormous amounts of planting tips and independent advice, and you can check to see if a particular plant will thrive in your hardiness zone. And then you can place plant orders via the Internet without ever leaving home.
Keep a record
If you get those free calendars in the mail, take one of them and start writing down information that you’ll need every year, to save having to figure it out year after year. For example, it would be a good idea to note the projected dates for the first and last frosts, how much fertilizer you need each year for your lawn, and the date you spread it, and so on. You can also note the number of plants you buy for your container gardens, to avoid over- or under-buying next year.
Try something new
Tired of the same old, same old? Prepare now for something new and different. Because the unusual plants are often in short supply, you definitely want to prepare now by researching and ordering your”out of the ordinary” plants.
In my previous column, titled “Some new plant ideas for the new year,” I suggested some that you might find interesting. If you missed that column, you can find it saved at my Web site. As always, you’re welcome to contact me at steve@landsteward.org if you need any personal advice or suggestions.
Find fallen branches
At this time of year, the weather can often bring down anything from small twigs to large branches. When they’re left there all winter, they can traumatize your lawn, and may cause a tripping hazard to children or pets playing in the yard, particularly if hidden by snow or frost. Your lawn will benefit in the spring from your preparedness now, and you might end up with some kindling for your fireplace, too.
Think green!
Best of all, prepare mentally by imagining how lush, fragrant and beautiful your landscape will be, mere weeks from today!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, December 29, 2005
Some “new” plant ideas for the new year
A new year... a new planting season just ahead... and some new plant ideas to bestow a fresh new look to your landscape.
At this time of year, we find ourselves seeking out things that are new and different. Several readers have contacted me at steve@landsteward.org and asked for plant suggestions that are a little out of the ordinary. Today, I’ll include a few of the suggestions that I sent to those readers.
What is “new and different” to one person is “been there, planted that” to another, but I hope that one or two of these will turn on a cartoon light bulb over your head!
Tennessee White Iris
This is quite an unusual plant. It is an almost iridescent white crested Iris that was discovered in a patch of regular Iris cristata Alba and singled out for cultivation. The Tennessee White has a fast growth rate, is hardy in zones 3 to 9 and can be planted in full sun, partial sun or shade.
When planting, bear in mind the scale of surrounding plants as the Tennessee White Iris will only reach a height of 10" to 12" with a spread of about 12" at maturity. At the end of the season, you can take them up and divide them for a larger display next season. They are not easy to find but well worth the effort if you want something unusual and quite spectacular. Send me an e-mail if you need some shopping information.
Pink Weigela
If you like the sight (and sound) of hummingbirds, the Pink Weigela acts like a hummingbird magnet when in full bloom. This is certainly not a “new” flowering shrub, but is being re-discovered by landscapers in many parts of the country. Cheryl and I have planted several and they are consistently covered in blooms through the spring and even re-bloom in the summer.
Leave them alone and they can reach 10 ft high and spread to 10 ft wide. However, when kept trimmed, a row of Pink Weigela make a delightfully colorful privacy hedge. They’re quite fast growing and do fine in zones 3 to 9 in full or partial sun or shade.
Fothergilla
Plant Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae and you’ll have an interesting reminder of early American history. This shrub was named after Dr. John Fothergill, a friend of Benjamin Franklin and a supporter of the Colonial cause in England in the 18th century where he specialized in growing American plants.
When in bloom, the Fothergilla’s dense, spiky white stamens resemble a bottle brush. In spring, the foliage ranges from blue-green to deep green and in fall, you’re treated to colors that range from yellow to orange to scarlet.
The Fothergilla is best suited to zones 4 - 8 and prefers acid, well-drained, moist soil. At maturity, you’ll see heights ranging from 3 ft to 6 ft.
Eldarica Pine
I am often asked about trees that are suitable for screening, so here’s one you might consider. The Eldarica matures to that familiar “Christmas tree” conical shape and can reach heights of 25 ft to 50 ft or more, with a spread of 25 ft to 40 ft.
It has a pleasant, fresh fragrance and is tolerant of marginal soils and tough climates in zones 3 to 9. It will do fine in hot, dry climates as well as colder climates and is drought, heat and wind tolerant once established.
Arizona Cypress
And lastly, a tree that would be better planted in the Southwest, as the name implies. This fairly fast-growing cypress will top out at around 35 ft with a spread up to 20 ft and displays dense sprays of bright blue-green foliage. This tree is ideal for planting in zones 7, 8 and 9 where it will tolerate hot, dry conditions.
So there you have it. A few suggestions, some of which might be familiar and some might be new to you. As always, I’m happy to provide more information or maybe come up with some specific recommendations that suit your particular needs when you send me an e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
At this time of year, we find ourselves seeking out things that are new and different. Several readers have contacted me at steve@landsteward.org and asked for plant suggestions that are a little out of the ordinary. Today, I’ll include a few of the suggestions that I sent to those readers.
What is “new and different” to one person is “been there, planted that” to another, but I hope that one or two of these will turn on a cartoon light bulb over your head!
Tennessee White Iris
This is quite an unusual plant. It is an almost iridescent white crested Iris that was discovered in a patch of regular Iris cristata Alba and singled out for cultivation. The Tennessee White has a fast growth rate, is hardy in zones 3 to 9 and can be planted in full sun, partial sun or shade.
When planting, bear in mind the scale of surrounding plants as the Tennessee White Iris will only reach a height of 10" to 12" with a spread of about 12" at maturity. At the end of the season, you can take them up and divide them for a larger display next season. They are not easy to find but well worth the effort if you want something unusual and quite spectacular. Send me an e-mail if you need some shopping information.
Pink Weigela
If you like the sight (and sound) of hummingbirds, the Pink Weigela acts like a hummingbird magnet when in full bloom. This is certainly not a “new” flowering shrub, but is being re-discovered by landscapers in many parts of the country. Cheryl and I have planted several and they are consistently covered in blooms through the spring and even re-bloom in the summer.
Leave them alone and they can reach 10 ft high and spread to 10 ft wide. However, when kept trimmed, a row of Pink Weigela make a delightfully colorful privacy hedge. They’re quite fast growing and do fine in zones 3 to 9 in full or partial sun or shade.
Fothergilla
Plant Fothergilla Hamamelidaceae and you’ll have an interesting reminder of early American history. This shrub was named after Dr. John Fothergill, a friend of Benjamin Franklin and a supporter of the Colonial cause in England in the 18th century where he specialized in growing American plants.
When in bloom, the Fothergilla’s dense, spiky white stamens resemble a bottle brush. In spring, the foliage ranges from blue-green to deep green and in fall, you’re treated to colors that range from yellow to orange to scarlet.
The Fothergilla is best suited to zones 4 - 8 and prefers acid, well-drained, moist soil. At maturity, you’ll see heights ranging from 3 ft to 6 ft.
Eldarica Pine
I am often asked about trees that are suitable for screening, so here’s one you might consider. The Eldarica matures to that familiar “Christmas tree” conical shape and can reach heights of 25 ft to 50 ft or more, with a spread of 25 ft to 40 ft.
It has a pleasant, fresh fragrance and is tolerant of marginal soils and tough climates in zones 3 to 9. It will do fine in hot, dry climates as well as colder climates and is drought, heat and wind tolerant once established.
Arizona Cypress
And lastly, a tree that would be better planted in the Southwest, as the name implies. This fairly fast-growing cypress will top out at around 35 ft with a spread up to 20 ft and displays dense sprays of bright blue-green foliage. This tree is ideal for planting in zones 7, 8 and 9 where it will tolerate hot, dry conditions.
So there you have it. A few suggestions, some of which might be familiar and some might be new to you. As always, I’m happy to provide more information or maybe come up with some specific recommendations that suit your particular needs when you send me an e-mail.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 12/25/05 - 12/31/05
(730 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 12/25/05 - 12/31/05
(730 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Oak trees targeted by voracious caterpillars
A new year is upon us and already landscape and garden enthusiasts are anticipating the coming spring! Here are some recent questions I received from readers of this column. I’m always happy to receive your comments and questions at steve@landsteward.org
QUESTION: ”My 10 year old oak tree has lost almost all of the leaves. I discovered a lot of caterpillars. I have hardly any leaves left. I have gotten rid of the caterpillars, but my tree looks very barren. Will it come back or is there something special I should do ?” – Jeanette Stevens
ANSWER: Caterpillars can be frustrating! In some cases, caterpillars can totally defoliate a tree. According to an online article published by the Extension Service of Texas A&M, when a tree is defoliated it can become stressed and serious damage can occur. Green leaves manufacture energy that allows the tree to grow and maintain its natural vigor. Once a tree is defoliated, it essentially stops manufacturing sugar which slows tree growth.
Moreover, stressed trees are susceptible to attack from various diseases and wood-boring insects. What to do? Well, caterpillar populations are generally cyclic and they rarely appear year after year, so you could simply do nothing and see if the tree comes back next spring. If you see evidence of leaf-roller infestation at that time, you could spray the leaves with a carbaryl product such as Sevin or any similar product designated for the control of caterpillars or oak worms.
To find out more about caterpillars and how to control them, I suggest you read the entire article at http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf and you can easily click on a direct link from this column archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org under the Plant Man heading.
QUESTION: “I purchased 2 Grace Smoke Trees and planted them in early spring this year. Both plants are close to 5 ft. tall. They are healthy and leafed out well in the spring. I am wondering if I should prune them back a bit in the spring to help them bush out more, and...if so, how much should I prune? One plant has a v-shape trunk (with 2 main stalks) at the base and the other plant is one long trunk. Neither tree has any limbs yet. One more question: should I fertilize and when is the best time for these trees? Hope you can help and thanks so much for your advice.” – Trish Joyner
ANSWER: Pruning these plants now (or at any time during fall/winter) will promote a more intense foliage color. Also, they do flower better on new growth. Treat them the same way you would crape myrtles. Cut them back anywhere from one third to one half of the plant. It will force more branching and all of this new growth will produce more flowers and striking foliage.
The rule of thumb on fertilizing deciduous trees and shrubs is to wait for them to leaf out in spring before applying your first round of fertilizer and be sure to follow the directions on the package to not overdo it. I prefer the granular fertilizer, but that’s just a personal choice. Adding compost or other natural products to the soil around the immediate base of plants can give them as much of a boost as fertilizer can. Natural products will not harm the plants and will only help to build your soil.
QUESTION: “Can I put my lawn clippings such as leaves and grass directly into my garden to till in in the spring or would this be more of a problem later?” – Neal Goble
ANSWER: It is far better to compost them first. Among the many reasons, composting the clipping first will eliminate most of the weed seed before you put it in your garden. Go to my Web site and find two recent Plant Man columns that include a lot of information on composting.
QUESTION: “I have an arborvitae in a large container, will it survive in a container over winter?” – Adrianne
ANSWER: No, You should either bury the container in the soil so that it can be insulated or take out of the container and plant.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Tree thieves may be targeting your "growing investment"
Tree thieves may be targeting your "growing investment"
Tree thieves are in the news again. A reader recently sent me a newspaper story about alleged thieves targeting hemlock trees. According to the article, park rangers found 2,700 hemlock saplings and seedlings dug from the Grundy Forest Natural Area, near Tracy City, Tennessee.
The park rangers arrested three men who had apparently planned to sell the hemlocks to a plant nursery. As a nurseryman myself, I can say that it would have been unlikely that any nursery would have been gullible enough to buy the trees from these alleged rustlers. Apart from the legal issues, those hemlocks would have been unlikely to survive the trauma.
According to the newspaper article, John Christof, the Natural Area manager said, "We put every one of the trees back in the ground as soon as we could [but] I believe 99% died."
At this time of year, many tree rustlers target Christmas tree farms, and even some homeowners wake up to find only a stump in their front yard where a fir tree had stood previously.
However, most "professional" tree rustlers are interested in how much a sawmill will pay them for the freshly cut trunk. Sawmills talk in terms of "dollars per board-foot" and pay higher prices for trees that, in turn, realize the best profits for them.
In previous columns, I’ve recommended that you should be extra vigilant if you have trees on your property that carry a high dollar value. Here are three trees that can be potential targets for tree thieves:
Black Walnut
One of my favorites, and proving increasingly popular with timberjackers, too. One reason: it has earned the nickname of "the money tree", because of its value to furniture makers. Over the past thirty years or so, the black walnut has once again achieved its former glory thanks to the development of genetically superior cultivars.
Black walnut trees can be a remarkably good investment. I know folks who have plantations of black walnuts that they expect will provide for their retirement in a few years. You can find several articles and archived columns about black walnut trees at my Web site if this sounds like something you'd be interested in. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the Plant Man columns, or type "black walnut" into the Search window.
Sugar Maple
Sometimes known as Birds-eye maple or Acer Saccharum, the timber is often used for making picture frames. However, I like this tree because it's the perfect shade tree and looks great on a good sized lawn. That's why you can see them in municipal parks and on golf courses.
White Oak
Tree thieves love this one, too. I think the word to describe the white oak is ‘majestic', particularly when you see one that reaches a hundred or more feet from the ground.
I should emphasize that there’s no need to decide against planting these trees simply because they are popular with treejackers. They add beauty and elegance to your landscape and will probably increase the resale value of your home, should you decide to sell in the future. However, it pays to be aware that there are bad guys out there and you might need to take steps to protect your investment!
You can find more information at my Web site by typing "tree thieves" into the search window. You can also find out more about the trees mentioned above by finding this column archived under the Plant Man heading and clicking on the hot links.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Tree thieves are in the news again. A reader recently sent me a newspaper story about alleged thieves targeting hemlock trees. According to the article, park rangers found 2,700 hemlock saplings and seedlings dug from the Grundy Forest Natural Area, near Tracy City, Tennessee.
The park rangers arrested three men who had apparently planned to sell the hemlocks to a plant nursery. As a nurseryman myself, I can say that it would have been unlikely that any nursery would have been gullible enough to buy the trees from these alleged rustlers. Apart from the legal issues, those hemlocks would have been unlikely to survive the trauma.
According to the newspaper article, John Christof, the Natural Area manager said, "We put every one of the trees back in the ground as soon as we could [but] I believe 99% died."
At this time of year, many tree rustlers target Christmas tree farms, and even some homeowners wake up to find only a stump in their front yard where a fir tree had stood previously.
However, most "professional" tree rustlers are interested in how much a sawmill will pay them for the freshly cut trunk. Sawmills talk in terms of "dollars per board-foot" and pay higher prices for trees that, in turn, realize the best profits for them.
In previous columns, I’ve recommended that you should be extra vigilant if you have trees on your property that carry a high dollar value. Here are three trees that can be potential targets for tree thieves:
Black Walnut
One of my favorites, and proving increasingly popular with timberjackers, too. One reason: it has earned the nickname of "the money tree", because of its value to furniture makers. Over the past thirty years or so, the black walnut has once again achieved its former glory thanks to the development of genetically superior cultivars.
Black walnut trees can be a remarkably good investment. I know folks who have plantations of black walnuts that they expect will provide for their retirement in a few years. You can find several articles and archived columns about black walnut trees at my Web site if this sounds like something you'd be interested in. Go to www.landsteward.org and scroll through the Plant Man columns, or type "black walnut" into the Search window.
Sugar Maple
Sometimes known as Birds-eye maple or Acer Saccharum, the timber is often used for making picture frames. However, I like this tree because it's the perfect shade tree and looks great on a good sized lawn. That's why you can see them in municipal parks and on golf courses.
White Oak
Tree thieves love this one, too. I think the word to describe the white oak is ‘majestic', particularly when you see one that reaches a hundred or more feet from the ground.
I should emphasize that there’s no need to decide against planting these trees simply because they are popular with treejackers. They add beauty and elegance to your landscape and will probably increase the resale value of your home, should you decide to sell in the future. However, it pays to be aware that there are bad guys out there and you might need to take steps to protect your investment!
You can find more information at my Web site by typing "tree thieves" into the search window. You can also find out more about the trees mentioned above by finding this column archived under the Plant Man heading and clicking on the hot links.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
“Sold” on compost? Here’s how to make your pile
Creating a compost pile is one of the simplest jobs you can do around your garden and landscape. However, it is also just about the most effective use of your time because it pays big dividends in the form of vibrant soil and healthy plants.
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
As investments go, composting can’t be beat. Why? Because in its simplest form, it’s completely free. Starting and maintaining a compost pile won’t cost you a cent, and you’ll be reducing the amount of garbage that will otherwise be hauled away and dumped in a landfill.
In my previous column, I reviewed the basics of composting and what can be added to your compost heap ... as well as some things you should never use. If you missed that column, you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org and click on the Plant Man heading.
So now that you’re “sold” on the idea of composting, let’s get started on building your compost pile. As with last week’s column, we’ll go through the process using FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions).
Where should I build my compost pile?
Just about anywhere will work. However, from an aesthetic perspective, you’ll want to locate it somewhere discreet on your landscape. You will also want to be sure that your pile is at least a few feet away from any structure – house, shed, garage, fence – because compost is home to a lot of little organisms.
What tools will I need?
Nothing special. A garden fork or shovel. If you have a pitchfork, that would be handy, too. Other than that, you’ll probably use some of your regular garden tools, such a wheelbarrow, garden gloves and a lawn mower for mulching up leaves. As I mentioned last time, you’ll get better results if you chop up kitchen scraps before adding them, so you’ll need a kitchen knife.
Will I need a compost bin?
A bin is not a “must have” item and you can literally build a compost pile on the ground. That’s the cheapest and easiest way. However there are benefits to using a bin. Bins help to retain heat and moisture, deter pests and prevent the lighter parts of your compost from blowing around in the wind. You can buy quite economical bins, or build one yourself.
How do I start my compost pile?
Here’s a simple way that I’ve found to be effective. First moisten the ground with a little water. Lay down some small branches and twigs and maybe some other carbon-based (“brown”) material that you have not chopped up. This will allow for aeration. Start layering your materials, alternating between layers of nitrogen-based (“green”) and brown materials. Try to maintain the 25:1 ratio between brown and green materials. Again, for more details about what constitutes brown and green compost ingredients, refer to the previous column archived at my Web site, or contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I can e-mail a copy of the column to you.
Should I cover the pile?
That depends on your weather conditions. If you experience excessive wet or dry conditions, I suggest you cover the top of the pile with a plastic garbage bag and weight it down with some rocks to keep it in place. This will help retain moisture or (in areas with heavy rainfall) prevent your pile from becoming waterlogged.
Now what do I do?
You could just leave it. However, you can speed up the process by gently “turning” the pile every couple of weeks or so, using a garden fork or a pitchfork.
How long before I have real compost?
The process takes anything from a couple of months to 2 years, depending on how well you shredded up the materials, how often you turned the pile, and the amount of air and moisture involved. When the material has decomposed and resembles earthy-smelling soil, it’s ready to use as compost. Probably, the most useable compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Remove it carefully with a shovel and use it as needed, rebuilding the rest of the pile and adding more materials from time to time.
If your landscape could smile, you’d see it grinning from ear to ear after you dig in some of that wonderful, all-natural, nutrient-rich compost that you created with your own hands!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Friday, November 18, 2005
Compost: the free gateway to super soil
Is it really worth starting your own compost pile? Aren’t you simply creating a smelly eyesore that’s just a glorified trash dump?
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The answers are yes and no. YES, it is worth starting a compost pile, even a modest-sized one. And NO, your compost doesn’t have to be either smelly or an eyesore. With most of your must-do landscaping chores behind you for the season, this is the perfect time to get started on your compost pile. It’s a real investment!
If you already have your own composting system, no doubt you’re an enthusiastic advocate of the concept. But if you’ve been putting off the idea or haven’t really considered it, maybe I can answer a few questions here.
Why should I compost at all? Compost is a super soil amendment and it’s absolutely free. Adding compost to your soil will help aeration and water-management for both clay and sandy soils. Micro-organisms will feed on your compost and in turn provide nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Create a rich, dark soil for your plants and they’ll grow strong, healthy and robust. And did I mention it’s free?
What goes into a compost pile? Pretty much anything organic. Think of two different categories: browns and greens. Browns are carbon-rich materials and include dried leaves, wood chips, straw, etc. Greens are the nitrogen-rich materials such as kitchen scraps and grass clippings.
Does the mix matter? The ideal compost pile has a ratio of 25 to 1. Twenty-five parts brown to one part green, by weight. Too much carbon means the compost breaks down more slowly... and an over-abundance of nitrogen creates the “smelly” problem you want to avoid. But it’s not an exact science. Just remember that your goal is a lot more browns than greens.
Can I just dump my raked leaves on the pile? You could but you’ll get better (and faster) results if you mow over the leaves first to reduce them to much smaller pieces so they’ll decompose faster. If you have a lot of leaves, you could look into renting a chipper-shredder to make the job easier.
Any leaves I should avoid? Yes! Much as I love black walnut trees, I do not use the leaves in my compost as they can be toxic to other plants. I also avoid holly and live oak leaves that are tough and don’t break down easily.
What about grass clippings? A great source of nitrogen, but don’t toss on big clumps of wet grass because they will soon give off a sour smell. Tip: spread out grass clippings to dry until they begin to look a bit like straw before you add them to your compost. Again, be sure to add plenty of “browns” as well as the grass clippings. And don’t use any clippings that have recently been exposed to herbicide or pesticide.
Which kitchen scraps work best? Almost any kitchen leftovers will eventually break down and become organic matter, but it helps to be selective. Potato and carrot peelings, apple cores, banana skins and tea bags are ideal. Eggshells are very good too, but crush them up finely as they are slow to decompose. In fact, you’ll get better results if you take the time to chop up all your kitchen scraps before adding them to the pile. I choose not to add any meat or dairy products because they smell and attract critters. When adding fresh kitchen refuse to the pile, it’s a good idea to bury it under some older compost to discourage foraging wildlife.
What about manure? If you have access to manure, by all means add it! A couple of points: Only use manure from vegetarian animals such as cows, horses, goats and ducks. Allow the manure to age and dry slightly because adding fresh manure can kill off worms and other beneficial organisms. Avoid using manure from carnivores (such as dogs) as it can contain harmful pathogens.
If you have questions or comments about what you should or shouldn’t add to your compost, or if you want to know more about organic-based soil amendments and lawn care, drop me an e-mail.
In my next column, I’ll continue this important theme, and look at some easy ways to build an effective compost pile that will pay dividends all year ‘round.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, November 10, 2005
Fall garden fix-its now save problems next spring
Here’s what you DON’T want to say next spring: “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!” To avoid giving yourself a dope-slap a few months from now, follow this fall fix-it checklist.
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
The last of the leaves Promise yourself not to put away the rake and the leaf blower until all the leaves have fallen from your trees. It’s tempting to allow the final leaves to form a carpet over your lawn, but even though grass “rests” over the winter, it still reaps benefits from sunlight. A final raking now will pay dividends in the spring when your lawn comes back fresh, green and perky.
Buzz cut Okay, the lawn doesn’t need that “jar head” look, but a final trim is a good idea. Set the blades to cut the grass to a height of 1.5" to 2". While you’re at it – and if the rake is still handy and your back can stand it – rake off that dry tangle of “thatch” one last time.
Can’t take no mow When you decide you’ve run the mower for the last time, carry out a few maintenance must-do’s before you put it to bed. Run the engine until the gas tank is empty. Why? Because gasoline that is allowed to sit in your mower over the winter will become gummy, making it much harder to start in the spring. Slightly less important but still a good idea: drain the oil reservoir and fill with fresh oil.
Getting pruney If your deciduous trees and fall-flowering shrubs are beginning to get out of hand, now is a good time to prune them, if you haven’t done so already. It’s better not to prune evergreens or spring-flowering plants in the fall.
It’s for the birds Don’t leave it too late to hang your birdfeeders and get them filled with seed. Establish your yard as a feeding station early in the season and you’ll enjoy flying visitors all winter. If you’re using an established feeder, be sure to clean it out thoroughly before filling. Mold and debris need to be completely removed to avoid contaminating the new chow. There are some excellent birdfeeders available now, if you’re in the market for a new one. Send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org if you would like some shopping ideas.
Put away the toys If you love gardening and landscaping, then tools are your toys. Admit it: you treat yourself to a new one from time to time! It’s just about time to put the tools away until the spring, but before you do, take a few minutes to give them the once over. Knock off crusted dirt and wipe clean. Using a cloth, lightly coat the metal parts with vegetable oil and wooden handles with linseed oil. A good tip: Thoroughly wipe the handles afterwards to prevent them getting sticky during the winter. I found a really comprehensive online article with full details on cleaning and caring for every type of garden tool. The site is http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gtcare.html and you can simply click on a direct link when you visit my Web site www.landsteward.org and find the link in this column under the Plant Man heading.
Avoid the hose-cicle! Don’t forget the garden hose. Disconnect it from the spigot and try to drain out as much water from the hose as possible. Water expands when it freezes, and your hose is likely to split if you leave it outside with water still in it. Ideally, put your hose on a reel and store it in a garage or shed. Once under cover, hanging the hose reel on the wall or placing it on a bench is preferable to leaving it on the floor.
In case you’re wondering... yes, there have been times when I’ve given myself that dope slap and said, “I wish I’d taken care of that in the fall!”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 20, 2005
Falling leaves: love ‘em or leave ‘em?
There’s a reason they call this season “fall.” Those leaves that look so beautiful as they turn from green to gold to crimson don’t look so attractive when they’ve become a sodden carpet on your lawn.
So what should you do? Rake? Mow? Mulch? Or simply leave the leaves alone?
Let’s look at the last one first. It’s tempting to procrastinate and put off dealing with those leaves “because there are still a few that haven’t fallen yet.” Bad idea... for several reasons.
Freshly fallen leaves are light and brittle, making them easy to rake or pile up with a blower. Wet, compacted leaves are heavy, difficult to rake and almost impossible to move with a leaf-blower. Ignore the leaves now and your chore will be even harder later!
But there’s an even more important reason: disease control. A carpet of wet leaves will prevent essential sunlight and air from reaching your lawn and will encourage various diseases to get a grip on your sod.
So we agree that keeping fallen leaves under control throughout the season is your best policy. What are your options?
Raking
Before I start raking the lawn, I try to remind myself to rake all the accumulated leaves out from the flower beds and around the various shrubs. It can be disheartening to survey your freshly raked lawn... and then spot the leaves, twigs and other debris you missed, lurking under your bushes! During the winter, the freeze-thaw-freeze cycle can cause dead grass and organic material to release soluble phosphates and nitrates that can run off frozen ground and enter surface water.
Mowing
If you start early enough, while the layer of fallen leaves is quite light and brittle, you can simply run the mower over them. With a regular mower, you’ll probably want to make two or three passes to be sure you’ve shredded the leaves into very small particles. If you have a large area of lawn and a number of trees, you might want to invest in a mulching mower. This machine can shred leaves virtually into a powder. This has the added benefit of adding a natural mulch to your lawn while saving you the labor of raking and bagging.
Composting
If you are serious about your landscape, you probably have a compost pile. If not, this could be a good time to start one. There are several helpful articles and previous columns on this subject archived at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can scroll through the columns under the Plant Man heading. If you have specific questions on this subject (or any other) feel free to send an e-mail to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you a personal reply.
While you’re doing your fall clean-up chores, remember to add those fading “leggy” annuals and any vines from your vegetable garden to the leaves in your compost so the can all cook together. Do not add meat or bones to your compost as you’re likely to attract unwanted critters or your own pets. Diseased plants or clippings from a lawn recently treated with a herbicide or a weedkiller should not go into your compost either.
Lawn care
Even if your lawn is completely free of fallen leaves, it still needs a little TLC at this time of year. Mow the grass so it is between two and three inches. Why? Grass that is much longer than three inches can mat and this can encourage winter diseases such as snow mold. Cut grass down to less than two inches and you can adversely affect your lawn’s capability to absorb and store the nutrients it will need to come back strong next spring.
Fertilizing your lawn
If your lawn could do with a little boost, fall is a good time to apply fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you’ll need about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If you’re a fan of organic solutions (as I am), send me an e-mail and I’ll give you some details about an organic “turf tea” that I found recently.
If you mow ‘em, mulch ‘em or bag ‘em, now is the time to work on those leaves. If you listen carefully, you’ll hear your lawn sighing happily!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
So what should you do? Rake? Mow? Mulch? Or simply leave the leaves alone?
Let’s look at the last one first. It’s tempting to procrastinate and put off dealing with those leaves “because there are still a few that haven’t fallen yet.” Bad idea... for several reasons.
Freshly fallen leaves are light and brittle, making them easy to rake or pile up with a blower. Wet, compacted leaves are heavy, difficult to rake and almost impossible to move with a leaf-blower. Ignore the leaves now and your chore will be even harder later!
But there’s an even more important reason: disease control. A carpet of wet leaves will prevent essential sunlight and air from reaching your lawn and will encourage various diseases to get a grip on your sod.
So we agree that keeping fallen leaves under control throughout the season is your best policy. What are your options?
Raking
Before I start raking the lawn, I try to remind myself to rake all the accumulated leaves out from the flower beds and around the various shrubs. It can be disheartening to survey your freshly raked lawn... and then spot the leaves, twigs and other debris you missed, lurking under your bushes! During the winter, the freeze-thaw-freeze cycle can cause dead grass and organic material to release soluble phosphates and nitrates that can run off frozen ground and enter surface water.
Mowing
If you start early enough, while the layer of fallen leaves is quite light and brittle, you can simply run the mower over them. With a regular mower, you’ll probably want to make two or three passes to be sure you’ve shredded the leaves into very small particles. If you have a large area of lawn and a number of trees, you might want to invest in a mulching mower. This machine can shred leaves virtually into a powder. This has the added benefit of adding a natural mulch to your lawn while saving you the labor of raking and bagging.
Composting
If you are serious about your landscape, you probably have a compost pile. If not, this could be a good time to start one. There are several helpful articles and previous columns on this subject archived at my Web site, www.landsteward.org where you can scroll through the columns under the Plant Man heading. If you have specific questions on this subject (or any other) feel free to send an e-mail to me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you a personal reply.
While you’re doing your fall clean-up chores, remember to add those fading “leggy” annuals and any vines from your vegetable garden to the leaves in your compost so the can all cook together. Do not add meat or bones to your compost as you’re likely to attract unwanted critters or your own pets. Diseased plants or clippings from a lawn recently treated with a herbicide or a weedkiller should not go into your compost either.
Lawn care
Even if your lawn is completely free of fallen leaves, it still needs a little TLC at this time of year. Mow the grass so it is between two and three inches. Why? Grass that is much longer than three inches can mat and this can encourage winter diseases such as snow mold. Cut grass down to less than two inches and you can adversely affect your lawn’s capability to absorb and store the nutrients it will need to come back strong next spring.
Fertilizing your lawn
If your lawn could do with a little boost, fall is a good time to apply fertilizer. As a rule of thumb, you’ll need about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If you’re a fan of organic solutions (as I am), send me an e-mail and I’ll give you some details about an organic “turf tea” that I found recently.
If you mow ‘em, mulch ‘em or bag ‘em, now is the time to work on those leaves. If you listen carefully, you’ll hear your lawn sighing happily!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 13, 2005
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
The Plant Man column
for publication week of 10/16/05 - 10/22/05
(758 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
Getting started on creating your ideal landscape can be the toughest part. You can envision stately trees and lush beds of beautiful shrubs and perennials, but exactly how do you go about it?
I fully understand those feelings! In the previous column I described a painless way to plan your garden and to mark out the proposed beds with a garden hose or a length of rope before you dig.
If you missed that column you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on the Plant Man heading and find the column titled “How to get started on your landscaping project.”
Today I will review some elements of design and how you can apply these to your new landscape. In reality, of course, you need to consider these elements (and the plants you would like to include) at the planning stage, because this could affect the size, shape and location of your new beds.
Although the actual plants you select should take into account the “plant hardiness zone” in which you live, certain design principals are fairly universal. I’m sure we’ve all seen examples of landscaping where well-meaning but misguided homeowners have created something that... well, just looks “wrong.” Maybe the scale relationship between the plants and the house looks odd, or the plantings don’t seem to flow.
Here are some artistic elements to consider when you’re planning your landscape:
Color
Line
Texture
Scale
Balance
One of the best explanations I’ve ever seen of how to use these design elements is titled “Basic Principles of Landscape Design,” written by Dewayne L. Ingram of the University of Florida Extension Service. The article is online at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG086 and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site. The article is packed with information and I highly recommend it.
Here is a brief summary of what Mr. Ingram says about these elements:
Color
A good start is a color wheel, available at art and hobby shops, showing primary colors (red, blue and yellow), secondary colors (the blending of primary colors, such as red and yellow creating orange) and so on. The wheel will help you decide if you want monochromatic, analogous or complementary color schemes.
Briefly, a monochromatic layout uses plants that are different shades and tints of one color, whereas analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel.
You can also use color to change the perception of distance. For example, plants with cool colors such as blue and green, placed around a home’s foundation, can make the house visually appear further back from the street.
Line
Line is the element that refers to flow or eye-movement. A straight line of plantings leads the eye directly to a point, whereas curved lines create a relaxed, natural feel.
Texture
Texture is something you can see and feel. Textures might be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, dull or glossy. Smooth, glossy leaves seen against the rough texture of stone or brick wall can be an interesting juxtaposition.
Scale
Often overlooked, scale is an important element to consider when choosing plants for your new landscape. Certainly, you’re unlikely to want every plant to be exactly the same height, but beware of allowing one plant to overpower its neighbors.
Balance
Do you want the left side to be an exact mirror image of the right side? Or do you prefer an asymmetrical balance, using color, line, texture and scale? (See above!)
Above all, plan a landscape that appeals to your personal taste; one that you and your family will enjoy looking at and living in. As for specific plants, perhaps those that would work well together in terms of texture, scale and the other elements discussed here, I’m always happy to offer personal suggestions if you send a few details to steve@landsteward.org
Meanwhile here are two other online resources you might find useful as you plan your new landscape. As always you can click on direct links from this column at my Web site.
http://landscaping.about.com/c/ec/1.htm
Online landscape design course: 108 free e-mailed lessons from landscaping.about.com
http://www.khake.com/page80.html
100's of landscape planning links provided by the Vocational Information Center
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
for publication week of 10/16/05 - 10/22/05
(758 words)
###
The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
Simple design elements help avoid landscaping problems
Getting started on creating your ideal landscape can be the toughest part. You can envision stately trees and lush beds of beautiful shrubs and perennials, but exactly how do you go about it?
I fully understand those feelings! In the previous column I described a painless way to plan your garden and to mark out the proposed beds with a garden hose or a length of rope before you dig.
If you missed that column you can find it archived at my Web site. Go to www.landsteward.org then click on the Plant Man heading and find the column titled “How to get started on your landscaping project.”
Today I will review some elements of design and how you can apply these to your new landscape. In reality, of course, you need to consider these elements (and the plants you would like to include) at the planning stage, because this could affect the size, shape and location of your new beds.
Although the actual plants you select should take into account the “plant hardiness zone” in which you live, certain design principals are fairly universal. I’m sure we’ve all seen examples of landscaping where well-meaning but misguided homeowners have created something that... well, just looks “wrong.” Maybe the scale relationship between the plants and the house looks odd, or the plantings don’t seem to flow.
Here are some artistic elements to consider when you’re planning your landscape:
Color
Line
Texture
Scale
Balance
One of the best explanations I’ve ever seen of how to use these design elements is titled “Basic Principles of Landscape Design,” written by Dewayne L. Ingram of the University of Florida Extension Service. The article is online at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG086 and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site. The article is packed with information and I highly recommend it.
Here is a brief summary of what Mr. Ingram says about these elements:
Color
A good start is a color wheel, available at art and hobby shops, showing primary colors (red, blue and yellow), secondary colors (the blending of primary colors, such as red and yellow creating orange) and so on. The wheel will help you decide if you want monochromatic, analogous or complementary color schemes.
Briefly, a monochromatic layout uses plants that are different shades and tints of one color, whereas analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel.
You can also use color to change the perception of distance. For example, plants with cool colors such as blue and green, placed around a home’s foundation, can make the house visually appear further back from the street.
Line
Line is the element that refers to flow or eye-movement. A straight line of plantings leads the eye directly to a point, whereas curved lines create a relaxed, natural feel.
Texture
Texture is something you can see and feel. Textures might be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, dull or glossy. Smooth, glossy leaves seen against the rough texture of stone or brick wall can be an interesting juxtaposition.
Scale
Often overlooked, scale is an important element to consider when choosing plants for your new landscape. Certainly, you’re unlikely to want every plant to be exactly the same height, but beware of allowing one plant to overpower its neighbors.
Balance
Do you want the left side to be an exact mirror image of the right side? Or do you prefer an asymmetrical balance, using color, line, texture and scale? (See above!)
Above all, plan a landscape that appeals to your personal taste; one that you and your family will enjoy looking at and living in. As for specific plants, perhaps those that would work well together in terms of texture, scale and the other elements discussed here, I’m always happy to offer personal suggestions if you send a few details to steve@landsteward.org
Meanwhile here are two other online resources you might find useful as you plan your new landscape. As always you can click on direct links from this column at my Web site.
http://landscaping.about.com/c/ec/1.htm
Online landscape design course: 108 free e-mailed lessons from landscaping.about.com
http://www.khake.com/page80.html
100's of landscape planning links provided by the Vocational Information Center
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Thursday, October 06, 2005
How to get started on your landscaping project
You look out of your window and all you see is wide expanse of nothing but grass, but what you really want to see is a vista of attractive landscaping with colorful shrubs and trees. Or perhaps you’re looking at a tangle of brambles and ugly bushes that have gotten out of control and you’d love to create an easy-care outdoor oasis.
Does this sound like you? If so, read on.
As with any project, the biggest hurdle is getting started. And the biggest problem to that is knowing HOW to get started! Today, I hope to give you some inspiration to help you do just that: get started.
It all begins with an idea and getting that idea down on paper. It doesn’t have to be a fancy architect-style blueprint, but if you have some kind of drafting skills, so much the better. Look at the Deeds to your property or get a long tape measure and sketch out the rough shape of the land on a piece of paper. You can just “eyeball” it at this stage if you have to.
Draw the shapes of the beds you’d like to see and where you might plant trees. Try several different layouts until you find a basic layout that appeals to you.
Formal or informal?
If your house has a distinctly “formal” look (such as symmetrical Georgian style) consider echoing that look with a formal landscape layout. This might include a straight path leading to a centrally-placed “island” with neatly squared-off hedges.
A less formal house design can inspire an informal landscape layout with curving pathways of irregular stone slabs winding between beds of shrubs that spill over the walkway in places and a hidden seating area amid a cool arbor of trees.
Now, go outside and translate your sketch to the real world. No, you won’t need a shovel just yet. You’ll want to layout your proposed beds on the grass before you start digging. A simple way is to use your garden hose or a long piece of rope. Lay the hose or the rope on the ground and move it in or out, forward or back, curved or straight until you’ve created a line that is pleasing to your eye.
My advice at this stage is to go to a garden center or a hardware store and buy a can of marking paint. This is a spray can designed only to work upside-down. You can find cans that dispense chalk instead of paint, but this is less effective if you anticipate wet conditions.
Does size matter?
A frequent error made by amateur landscapers is making the beds too small. Narrow, thin beds or tiny islands looks goofy, particularly as the shrubs and other plantings mature and spread out. Trust me on this: If you’re in any doubt, move that garden hose or rope and make the bed larger than you originally planned. Step back and take a look. Better still, find a way to look at it from a higher vantage point, such as a second story window.
If you’re replacing plantings in an existing bed (or in a bed that you will reshape to a more pleasing layout) simply dig up and dispose of the old plants, being sure to get all the roots and other debris. Creating a “virgin” bed from an area of lawn takes a little more finesse.
Following your painted guideline, cut down about one-and-a-half inches and peel the sod back towards the center of the bed.. Now you can do one of two things. You can remove ALL of the unwanted sod from the new bed and dispose of it.
Or you can firmly pack down the peeled-back sod (so it’s all “green side down”) and cover the entire pile with about 10 or 12 layers of newspaper and/or brown paper grocery bags. If you use this second method, you can leave it for a while for nature to kill off the grass for you, without resorting to chemical means. If you prefer using chemicals, send me an e-mail and I’ll suggest some products for you.
Next time in this column, I’ll continue with the theme of getting started with your brand-new landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
Does this sound like you? If so, read on.
As with any project, the biggest hurdle is getting started. And the biggest problem to that is knowing HOW to get started! Today, I hope to give you some inspiration to help you do just that: get started.
It all begins with an idea and getting that idea down on paper. It doesn’t have to be a fancy architect-style blueprint, but if you have some kind of drafting skills, so much the better. Look at the Deeds to your property or get a long tape measure and sketch out the rough shape of the land on a piece of paper. You can just “eyeball” it at this stage if you have to.
Draw the shapes of the beds you’d like to see and where you might plant trees. Try several different layouts until you find a basic layout that appeals to you.
Formal or informal?
If your house has a distinctly “formal” look (such as symmetrical Georgian style) consider echoing that look with a formal landscape layout. This might include a straight path leading to a centrally-placed “island” with neatly squared-off hedges.
A less formal house design can inspire an informal landscape layout with curving pathways of irregular stone slabs winding between beds of shrubs that spill over the walkway in places and a hidden seating area amid a cool arbor of trees.
Now, go outside and translate your sketch to the real world. No, you won’t need a shovel just yet. You’ll want to layout your proposed beds on the grass before you start digging. A simple way is to use your garden hose or a long piece of rope. Lay the hose or the rope on the ground and move it in or out, forward or back, curved or straight until you’ve created a line that is pleasing to your eye.
My advice at this stage is to go to a garden center or a hardware store and buy a can of marking paint. This is a spray can designed only to work upside-down. You can find cans that dispense chalk instead of paint, but this is less effective if you anticipate wet conditions.
Does size matter?
A frequent error made by amateur landscapers is making the beds too small. Narrow, thin beds or tiny islands looks goofy, particularly as the shrubs and other plantings mature and spread out. Trust me on this: If you’re in any doubt, move that garden hose or rope and make the bed larger than you originally planned. Step back and take a look. Better still, find a way to look at it from a higher vantage point, such as a second story window.
If you’re replacing plantings in an existing bed (or in a bed that you will reshape to a more pleasing layout) simply dig up and dispose of the old plants, being sure to get all the roots and other debris. Creating a “virgin” bed from an area of lawn takes a little more finesse.
Following your painted guideline, cut down about one-and-a-half inches and peel the sod back towards the center of the bed.. Now you can do one of two things. You can remove ALL of the unwanted sod from the new bed and dispose of it.
Or you can firmly pack down the peeled-back sod (so it’s all “green side down”) and cover the entire pile with about 10 or 12 layers of newspaper and/or brown paper grocery bags. If you use this second method, you can leave it for a while for nature to kill off the grass for you, without resorting to chemical means. If you prefer using chemicals, send me an e-mail and I’ll suggest some products for you.
Next time in this column, I’ll continue with the theme of getting started with your brand-new landscape.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org
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