Garden pests come in all shapes and sizes. Some have four legs, some have six or even eight legs. Some, with no legs at all, slither on their bellies, while others fly or creepy-crawl. But sometimes the most frustrating critters are the ones that tunnel below the surface and chomp away on your plant roots.
Perhaps you have a solution to help this reader with her problem…
QUESTION: “Any new ideas on how to deal with a serious mole problem in our acre of heavily landscaped yard and gardens?
“We live in the country, and our house is on former farm land and pastures. I understand that moles are supposed to be very territorial creatures, and that only one or two moles are supposed to inhabit an acre of land, but we know that we have many more, because we can visibly see them tunneling along in different areas of our garden.
“My husband and I respect all forms of life and refuse to attempt to trap, poison, harpoon, electrocute, gas, or shovel-bludgeon these little creatures to death, but we are very tired of repairing all the damage that they do to our beds and the expensive plants that they manage to uproot. We've tried all kinds of folk lore remedies to discourage them from our yard (such as pepper based products), and we've tried the commercial castor-oil based sprays (makes your soil terribly sticky and sickly!), to no avail.
“We've also tried the ultrasonic in-ground devices, but I swear that the moles seem to be attracted by anything new that we introduce to the ground and they do MORE damage in the areas that we try to protect with such devices. We've also tried to plant things in plastic or wire mesh cages to prevent root damage as they tunnel around, but again, these little critters seem to go berserk in the "protected areas" and tunnel out all the soil surrounding such cages, thus defeating the purpose of this time-consuming effort.
“In frustration, I bought traps, but couldn't bring myself to use them. We've considered getting a cat, or perhaps a couple of ferrets, or maybe a boa constrictor to set free in the yard... but, alas, we have a thriving bird community that would be threatened by the cat... and recruiting other critters to kill the moles isn’t really consistent with our "violence-free" philosophy, is it?
“Have you any other ideas that might make our garden a little less appealing to these creatures?” – Deborah Abraham
ANSWER: I can empathize with you because we have similar problems in our gardens. I have used a product called Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent and it works for us.
It’s a simple product to use in that you simply attach the container to your garden hose and spray the ground. Apparently it works by coating earthworms and plant roots with something highly distasteful to moles but harmless to humans and animals. The moles tunnel elsewhere in search of tastier meals. Contrary to popular belief, moles almost never eat plants, subsisting on worms and other small invertebrates, but they can damage plants by undermining the roots and often create molehills on lawns.
However it is a constant problem. When you use the product the moles move on but within a month more are back and you need to repeat the process. We feel the same way about killing the little things and that is why we do this once a month rather that put out traps or poison. The manufacturers claim that the product is biodegradable and environmentally safe.
You mentioned folk remedies, and I’m guessing that there are hundreds out there! So come on, readers: Share your mole-be-gone solutions and help Deborah and other frustrated gardeners! Remember, your remedy must be effective in your experience (rather than hearsay) and should be humane and non-toxic. You might see your remedy included here in a future column. Send your suggestion in an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org You can also contact me there if you need shopping information for the Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Thursday, May 22, 2008
“Alien” slime mold invades mulch!
QUESTION: “A couple of mornings ago, I noticed a strange yellow clump of something had appeared, apparently overnight, in one of our flower beds. It was a bright, almost neon, yellow and very moist and slimy. It looked almost like some kind of alien being! “By the next day, it had formed a skin or crust on top and was turning brown. It now looked like a very large, stale egg foo yong! The following day, a second patch appeared, about six feet away in the same bed. Is this some kind of fungus? I am planning to remove the two clumps with a shovel and replace the mulch. But I'd also like to know if there's a way I can treat the soil to discourage it from happening again.” – Mike H
ANSWER: We’ve had these things show up too and they do look weird, don’t they? The good news is that they might be unsightly but they are not plant parasites.
Slime mold is indeed a type of fungus that produces large, single-celled bodies called plasmodia. Plasmodia are the feeding stages of the fungus and can be seen on mulch, lawns and dead wood, according to the folks at the Plant Disease Clinic at Cornell University. You can read their complete article at http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/slimemolds.pdf.
Although slime mold is not a plant parasite, small or vulnerable plants can suffer if the mold covers or shades them. Slime molds will eventually disappear if left alone, but they are unsightly and you might want to remove them.
The folks at Cornell say that on mulch, they can be raked or turned under and on turf they can be mowed. In my case, I wait until the slime turns to a dry, flaky crust and remove it with a shovel. It will probably return when the conditions are right, but it’s good to know that slime mold isn’t really harmful to plants.
QUESTION: “Thank you so much for your helpful tips each week! I have a question about pruning in general. We have two azalea bushes and a very large bush (8-10 feet in diameter, 12 feet high) in our back yard (I'm afraid I don't know what kind it is, but its leaves turn bright red in the fall and it has small leaves about the size of a large thumb nail).
“We need to prune these back, as they are starting to creep into walkways and phone lines. What is the best time to prune? I don't want to kill the azaleas and the bush, but I want to keep them under control. The azaleas are currently blooming, and the bush has produced leaves. I appreciate any advice you may have.” – Sonja R.
ANSWER: From your description of the large bush, it sounds as if it is a non-blooming variety so you should be able to trim it now or most any time. As for the azaleas, the best time to trim these is after the blooms are spent or finished.
I received the following note from a reader in response to a question here about spiders:
“My brother has a good solution for spiders but it must be used with care.
”Old fashioned mothballs will kill spiders and insects. When my brother is going to be gone for a few days he throws a few under his trailer. He never has problems with the black widows, etc., that frequent his area. They die because the mothballs close off their lungs. (They will also damage human lungs if we are inhaling those fumes for any length of time.) Besides putting them under porches or other areas spiders love, you can sprinkle them around the outside of your arbor, house, etc. Note that they should not be allowed to vaporize close to food.
”I prefer to use more natural methods but this is a solution that works with some very unwelcome ‘critters’.”
Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of plants for your gardens and landscape at prices that will fit your budget. From shade trees, to flowering shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, small fruiting plants and plants for butterfly gardens, you'll find just the plants for your planting projects.
ANSWER: We’ve had these things show up too and they do look weird, don’t they? The good news is that they might be unsightly but they are not plant parasites.
Slime mold is indeed a type of fungus that produces large, single-celled bodies called plasmodia. Plasmodia are the feeding stages of the fungus and can be seen on mulch, lawns and dead wood, according to the folks at the Plant Disease Clinic at Cornell University. You can read their complete article at http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/slimemolds.pdf.
Although slime mold is not a plant parasite, small or vulnerable plants can suffer if the mold covers or shades them. Slime molds will eventually disappear if left alone, but they are unsightly and you might want to remove them.
The folks at Cornell say that on mulch, they can be raked or turned under and on turf they can be mowed. In my case, I wait until the slime turns to a dry, flaky crust and remove it with a shovel. It will probably return when the conditions are right, but it’s good to know that slime mold isn’t really harmful to plants.
QUESTION: “Thank you so much for your helpful tips each week! I have a question about pruning in general. We have two azalea bushes and a very large bush (8-10 feet in diameter, 12 feet high) in our back yard (I'm afraid I don't know what kind it is, but its leaves turn bright red in the fall and it has small leaves about the size of a large thumb nail).
“We need to prune these back, as they are starting to creep into walkways and phone lines. What is the best time to prune? I don't want to kill the azaleas and the bush, but I want to keep them under control. The azaleas are currently blooming, and the bush has produced leaves. I appreciate any advice you may have.” – Sonja R.
ANSWER: From your description of the large bush, it sounds as if it is a non-blooming variety so you should be able to trim it now or most any time. As for the azaleas, the best time to trim these is after the blooms are spent or finished.
I received the following note from a reader in response to a question here about spiders:
“My brother has a good solution for spiders but it must be used with care.
”Old fashioned mothballs will kill spiders and insects. When my brother is going to be gone for a few days he throws a few under his trailer. He never has problems with the black widows, etc., that frequent his area. They die because the mothballs close off their lungs. (They will also damage human lungs if we are inhaling those fumes for any length of time.) Besides putting them under porches or other areas spiders love, you can sprinkle them around the outside of your arbor, house, etc. Note that they should not be allowed to vaporize close to food.
”I prefer to use more natural methods but this is a solution that works with some very unwelcome ‘critters’.”
Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of plants for your gardens and landscape at prices that will fit your budget. From shade trees, to flowering shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, small fruiting plants and plants for butterfly gardens, you'll find just the plants for your planting projects.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Colorful plants bring both excitement and tranquility to garden
This time of year has a special place in my heart. Every season has its own characteristics and I wouldn’t want to change any of them, even the so-called bleak midwinter. But right now, at the height of a new spring season, I feel that exhilaration and contentment common to gardeners and horticulturists around the world.
Even the smallest garden can be a tranquil reminder that Nature knows what she’s doing. When Cheryl and I are outside, tending our plants at this time of year, we can almost hear the garden say, “I’m here, growing, glowing with life and beauty. Nurture me, cherish me. Let us grow together, and I will reward you with sights, sounds, tastes and aromas that will both stimulate and calm your senses.”
Forgive me for waxing poetic, but this IS a special time of year filled with fresh colors and new life springing from the soil. It is hard NOT to be upbeat and optimistic when you are outside among the plants that grace your landscape.
If worries about gas prices and a troubled economy are beginning to depress you, resolve to stay home a little more this spring and summer. Let the car stay in the garage. It deserves a rest and so do you.
For less than the price of a tank of gas, you can plant a tree. You will be doing your part to help the environment because a mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.
Splashes of brilliant color are appearing in gardens about now, and this brought to mind a few of my favorites.
Arizona Sun (Gaillardia aristata)
The name certainly creates an appropriate visual image! Arizona sun sports large fiery orange red blossoms tipped by a ring of rich flame yellow. They create a dramatic burst of color in almost any garden or border.
Arizona sun is sometimes call “blanket flower” because at one time they blanketed the North American prairies with their blooms. I can just imagine the amazement felt by a family of pioneers cresting a ridge in their Conestoga wagon and being dazzled by millions of these blazing blossoms as far as the eye could see!
Arizona Sun is fairly compact in growth, reaching about 8 to 10 inches. Too much shade makes them liable to flop over so be sure to plant these perennials where they’ll get plenty of full sun. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but are drought tolerant. Do not add compost when planting as they do best in “poor” loose soil and do not thrive in clay soil.
Coneflower “Prairie Splendor” (Echinacea purpurea)
Thinking of Arizona Sun on the prairies reminded me of this beautiful Coneflower. While Coneflowers are regarded as a mainstay in today’s gardens, the Prairie Splendor has the added benefit of being an earlier bloomer than other varieties, sporting 4 to 6 inch rose-pink blooms from late June to first frost.
Coneflower “White Swan”
If you prefer a more traditional Coneflower, this variety of Echinacea purpurea is a good choice I enjoy the sweet, honey-like fragrance and so do the masses of butterflies who are attracted to the White Swans in our garden. White Swan’s large daisy-like flowers appear from mid-summer through fall, continuing after many of the other perennials have finished their blooming cycle.
Columbine Aquilegia “Swan Pink and Yellow”
From white swans to pink and yellow swans! Horticulturists consider this a breakthrough in color combinations for columbines. Soft coral-pink outer petals with creamy tips blend harmoniously with pastel yellow inner petals. The blooms of 'Swan Pink and Yellow' face outward and show off perfectly.
From the eye-popping blaze of Arizona Sun to the soothing palette of Swan Pink and Yellow Columbine… colors that bring excitement and tranquility to your landscape. Enjoy them all as you grow with your garden, and drop me an e-mail if you want more information about the plants I’ve mentioned. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Even the smallest garden can be a tranquil reminder that Nature knows what she’s doing. When Cheryl and I are outside, tending our plants at this time of year, we can almost hear the garden say, “I’m here, growing, glowing with life and beauty. Nurture me, cherish me. Let us grow together, and I will reward you with sights, sounds, tastes and aromas that will both stimulate and calm your senses.”
Forgive me for waxing poetic, but this IS a special time of year filled with fresh colors and new life springing from the soil. It is hard NOT to be upbeat and optimistic when you are outside among the plants that grace your landscape.
If worries about gas prices and a troubled economy are beginning to depress you, resolve to stay home a little more this spring and summer. Let the car stay in the garage. It deserves a rest and so do you.
For less than the price of a tank of gas, you can plant a tree. You will be doing your part to help the environment because a mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year.
Splashes of brilliant color are appearing in gardens about now, and this brought to mind a few of my favorites.
Arizona Sun (Gaillardia aristata)
The name certainly creates an appropriate visual image! Arizona sun sports large fiery orange red blossoms tipped by a ring of rich flame yellow. They create a dramatic burst of color in almost any garden or border.
Arizona sun is sometimes call “blanket flower” because at one time they blanketed the North American prairies with their blooms. I can just imagine the amazement felt by a family of pioneers cresting a ridge in their Conestoga wagon and being dazzled by millions of these blazing blossoms as far as the eye could see!
Arizona Sun is fairly compact in growth, reaching about 8 to 10 inches. Too much shade makes them liable to flop over so be sure to plant these perennials where they’ll get plenty of full sun. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but are drought tolerant. Do not add compost when planting as they do best in “poor” loose soil and do not thrive in clay soil.
Coneflower “Prairie Splendor” (Echinacea purpurea)
Thinking of Arizona Sun on the prairies reminded me of this beautiful Coneflower. While Coneflowers are regarded as a mainstay in today’s gardens, the Prairie Splendor has the added benefit of being an earlier bloomer than other varieties, sporting 4 to 6 inch rose-pink blooms from late June to first frost.
Coneflower “White Swan”
If you prefer a more traditional Coneflower, this variety of Echinacea purpurea is a good choice I enjoy the sweet, honey-like fragrance and so do the masses of butterflies who are attracted to the White Swans in our garden. White Swan’s large daisy-like flowers appear from mid-summer through fall, continuing after many of the other perennials have finished their blooming cycle.
Columbine Aquilegia “Swan Pink and Yellow”
From white swans to pink and yellow swans! Horticulturists consider this a breakthrough in color combinations for columbines. Soft coral-pink outer petals with creamy tips blend harmoniously with pastel yellow inner petals. The blooms of 'Swan Pink and Yellow' face outward and show off perfectly.
From the eye-popping blaze of Arizona Sun to the soothing palette of Swan Pink and Yellow Columbine… colors that bring excitement and tranquility to your landscape. Enjoy them all as you grow with your garden, and drop me an e-mail if you want more information about the plants I’ve mentioned. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Shady gardens can be colorful and exciting
QUESTION: “I am new to gardening and seem to have a tough time getting plants to grow. Most of the area is full shade to partial sun and it does not have the best of drainage either. I do have a big patio that I pot flowers on as well. If you have any suggestions on some flowers that even a beginner can grow, I would greatly appreciate it.
“Also, I see that you have mentioned ways of deterring our animal friends. Would you have any suggestions on how we might get rid of a squirrel problem? I love to watch the little critters but they have made a home in the attic of our house. Nothing we seem to do deter them. They are very smart and they do not have a problem letting you know when you do something they do not like!” – Mary Wheeler
ANSWER: “Mary, I have e-mailed you a link to the extension office site in Missouri with a great article on controlling your little furry critters. For other readers, you can read the article here: http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09455.htm and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Yes, you are correct in that there is little or nothing that will control them other than just protecting what you have. Don’t forget things such as screening any vents or other openings in your gable or attic areas. The Missouri extension article says that if a squirrel is found in an attic or another part of the house, do not try to chase it out. Open a window or door and allow the squirrel to find its own way out. Alternatively, bait a live trap or cage trap with peanut butter or nutmeats. Once the squirrel is trapped, release it outdoors.
Many people believe that nothing will grow in shaded or poorly drained areas but that isn’t the case. In planting in a wet area, you can always plant in containers rather than directly in the ground. Container gardening allows for much better control for the water situation.
Here is my own listing of plants that will grow in such an area: Astilbes, Hostas, Ferns, Dicentra, Irises, Daylilies, Salvia, Heucheras, Hellebores.
As you are someone who is fairly new to gardening, I suggest you surf the ‘Net for as much information as possible. One excellent article, titled “Flowers for Shade or Part Shade” can be found at www.suite101.com The direct link to the article, subtitled “Easy to Grow Shade Loving Annual and Perennial Flowers,” is http://flowergardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/flowers_for_shade_or_part_shade Cheryl fielded this next question from a reader with a poison ivy problem.
QUESTION: “My son planted Myrtle on a steep bank beside his house. Now poison ivy has taken over. We have tried for years to pull it up and spray it, but it still hangs on and is getting worse. How can we kill it for good?” – Sally
ANSWER: We have been using a vine and brush control product called Vine X. It comes in a container that you apply directly on the ivy itself. The ivy absorbs the product and dies off. It worked beautifully for us when last year, the Easter weekend freeze wiped out all of our hybrid wisteria that covered our garden arbor.
The root system, which was not the same as the top grafted part, began putting out sprouts everywhere. Steve started using the Vine X everywhere he found sprouts, as well as the trunk where we had to cut down to, over summer. By late summer, the root system had died and no more sprouts.
Vine X is much safer and easier to apply than roundup or other herbicides. You may want to consider it. Otherwise, the only way to get rid of poison ivy is to regularly apply herbicides, which can also kill other plants in the vicinity.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
“Also, I see that you have mentioned ways of deterring our animal friends. Would you have any suggestions on how we might get rid of a squirrel problem? I love to watch the little critters but they have made a home in the attic of our house. Nothing we seem to do deter them. They are very smart and they do not have a problem letting you know when you do something they do not like!” – Mary Wheeler
ANSWER: “Mary, I have e-mailed you a link to the extension office site in Missouri with a great article on controlling your little furry critters. For other readers, you can read the article here: http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09455.htm and you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org
Yes, you are correct in that there is little or nothing that will control them other than just protecting what you have. Don’t forget things such as screening any vents or other openings in your gable or attic areas. The Missouri extension article says that if a squirrel is found in an attic or another part of the house, do not try to chase it out. Open a window or door and allow the squirrel to find its own way out. Alternatively, bait a live trap or cage trap with peanut butter or nutmeats. Once the squirrel is trapped, release it outdoors.
Many people believe that nothing will grow in shaded or poorly drained areas but that isn’t the case. In planting in a wet area, you can always plant in containers rather than directly in the ground. Container gardening allows for much better control for the water situation.
Here is my own listing of plants that will grow in such an area: Astilbes, Hostas, Ferns, Dicentra, Irises, Daylilies, Salvia, Heucheras, Hellebores.
As you are someone who is fairly new to gardening, I suggest you surf the ‘Net for as much information as possible. One excellent article, titled “Flowers for Shade or Part Shade” can be found at www.suite101.com The direct link to the article, subtitled “Easy to Grow Shade Loving Annual and Perennial Flowers,” is http://flowergardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/flowers_for_shade_or_part_shade Cheryl fielded this next question from a reader with a poison ivy problem.
QUESTION: “My son planted Myrtle on a steep bank beside his house. Now poison ivy has taken over. We have tried for years to pull it up and spray it, but it still hangs on and is getting worse. How can we kill it for good?” – Sally
ANSWER: We have been using a vine and brush control product called Vine X. It comes in a container that you apply directly on the ivy itself. The ivy absorbs the product and dies off. It worked beautifully for us when last year, the Easter weekend freeze wiped out all of our hybrid wisteria that covered our garden arbor.
The root system, which was not the same as the top grafted part, began putting out sprouts everywhere. Steve started using the Vine X everywhere he found sprouts, as well as the trunk where we had to cut down to, over summer. By late summer, the root system had died and no more sprouts.
Vine X is much safer and easier to apply than roundup or other herbicides. You may want to consider it. Otherwise, the only way to get rid of poison ivy is to regularly apply herbicides, which can also kill other plants in the vicinity.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Deer resistant plants can keep critters at bay
However much you like wildlife, it can be disheartening to see deer and other critters munching away on plants to which you have devoted so much of your time and money. If you see this as a potential problem, the most sensible solution is to start out with plants that deer are less likely to find desirable.
QUESTION: “We have just moved to a new home and the back yard is heavily treed with pines and a few hardwoods. Therefore it is partial sun to shade. We're interested in purchasing some shrubs and ferns which are resistant to deer. What are your suggestions?” – Dave Whiting
ANSWER: Being “deer resistant” is a relative phrase. If deer are not getting food from their normal sources, they will eat anything and everything. With that noted, some plants that will grow at least in partly shaded areas and that are not on the top of the list for deer to eat are:
Sage, Thyme, Chives, Hellebore, Ferns, Yarrow, Bamboo, Blue fescue, Boxwood, Dogwood, Euonymus, Forsythia, Holly, Japanese red maple, Junipers, Sambucus, Viburnum.
QUESTION: “We’ve been thinking of planting some Barberry and we looked at a variety called Crimson Pygmy. However, we were told there is another variety that has even redder foliage. Can you tell me what it’s called?” – James T.
ANSWER: I believe you’re thinking of a Barberry named Berberis thunbergii, Royal Burgundy. Royal Burgundy has a number of benefits over Crimson Pygmy. For one thing, I prefer the reddish-purple foliage of the Royal Burgundy. It holds its color throughout the summer before turning to a darker, almost blackish-red in the fall before defoliating for winter.
Royal Burgundy is also smaller with a more compact shape compared to Crimson Pygmy with a mature height of around 18 inches and a spread of 30 inches or so. Although it is tolerant of shade, you’ll see the best color when it is planted in full sun. It is quite drought-tolerant and can be used in xeriscaping.
Planting Royal Burgundy en masse adjacent to gold or blue evergreens allows the contrast to make the color really “pop.” Remember that it is thorny so handle with care.
QUESTION: “Having read your article on raised boxes, I have a question. In making the raised boxes can one use treated lumber? Sounds hideous, I know, but I’ve seen it done and it raises the question in my mind of leaching chemicals from the wood to the soil and then to the roots to the edibles. Really bad idea or am I worried unnecessarily?” – Erik Jansen
ANSWER: No, actually you are correct to question their use. But, you know, I have read arguments from both sides. Gardeners and the nursery industry alike have used pressure treated wood for raised beds for decades and have not experienced any problems.
However, there are arguments that the chemicals used on this lumber leaches into the soil. I have e-mailed a link to you from Fine Gardening Magazine that will offer you much more information. (If other readers want to see this article, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you the link. Alternatively, go to http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/ and type “pressure treated lumber” into the search window.)
You can isolate pressure-treated wood by lining the inside of a bed with heavy plastic to prevent leaching of chemicals from the wood into the soil. Some landscape designers are now using recycled plastic lumber, such as the brand name Trex, when building raised beds.
Redwood, cypress, cedar and straw bales can be used as organic materials to create beds as well as many inorganic products such as old tractor tires, large garbage bags (heavy mil), and masonry, and now kits are available for raised beds in many garden centers and hardware stores.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “We have just moved to a new home and the back yard is heavily treed with pines and a few hardwoods. Therefore it is partial sun to shade. We're interested in purchasing some shrubs and ferns which are resistant to deer. What are your suggestions?” – Dave Whiting
ANSWER: Being “deer resistant” is a relative phrase. If deer are not getting food from their normal sources, they will eat anything and everything. With that noted, some plants that will grow at least in partly shaded areas and that are not on the top of the list for deer to eat are:
Sage, Thyme, Chives, Hellebore, Ferns, Yarrow, Bamboo, Blue fescue, Boxwood, Dogwood, Euonymus, Forsythia, Holly, Japanese red maple, Junipers, Sambucus, Viburnum.
QUESTION: “We’ve been thinking of planting some Barberry and we looked at a variety called Crimson Pygmy. However, we were told there is another variety that has even redder foliage. Can you tell me what it’s called?” – James T.
ANSWER: I believe you’re thinking of a Barberry named Berberis thunbergii, Royal Burgundy. Royal Burgundy has a number of benefits over Crimson Pygmy. For one thing, I prefer the reddish-purple foliage of the Royal Burgundy. It holds its color throughout the summer before turning to a darker, almost blackish-red in the fall before defoliating for winter.
Royal Burgundy is also smaller with a more compact shape compared to Crimson Pygmy with a mature height of around 18 inches and a spread of 30 inches or so. Although it is tolerant of shade, you’ll see the best color when it is planted in full sun. It is quite drought-tolerant and can be used in xeriscaping.
Planting Royal Burgundy en masse adjacent to gold or blue evergreens allows the contrast to make the color really “pop.” Remember that it is thorny so handle with care.
QUESTION: “Having read your article on raised boxes, I have a question. In making the raised boxes can one use treated lumber? Sounds hideous, I know, but I’ve seen it done and it raises the question in my mind of leaching chemicals from the wood to the soil and then to the roots to the edibles. Really bad idea or am I worried unnecessarily?” – Erik Jansen
ANSWER: No, actually you are correct to question their use. But, you know, I have read arguments from both sides. Gardeners and the nursery industry alike have used pressure treated wood for raised beds for decades and have not experienced any problems.
However, there are arguments that the chemicals used on this lumber leaches into the soil. I have e-mailed a link to you from Fine Gardening Magazine that will offer you much more information. (If other readers want to see this article, drop me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll send you the link. Alternatively, go to http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/ and type “pressure treated lumber” into the search window.)
You can isolate pressure-treated wood by lining the inside of a bed with heavy plastic to prevent leaching of chemicals from the wood into the soil. Some landscape designers are now using recycled plastic lumber, such as the brand name Trex, when building raised beds.
Redwood, cypress, cedar and straw bales can be used as organic materials to create beds as well as many inorganic products such as old tractor tires, large garbage bags (heavy mil), and masonry, and now kits are available for raised beds in many garden centers and hardware stores.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, April 09, 2008
Spreading plants have their place in landscape
“Yes, those plants look nice enough,” I sometimes hear. “But don’t they have a reputation for spreading?”
Yes, there are a number of attractive plants that have a reputation for spreading out across, and sometimes beyond, the area in which they are planted. This can be a problem and it is advisable to investigate the “spreading habit” of any plant before you buy, if that is a potential problem in the designated planting location.
But a plant’s “spreadability” is not necessarily a bad thing. Spreading plants can be just what you are looking for in the right circumstances. They can choke out weeds, reduce soil erosion and beautify a sloping or rocky area that is difficult to mow.
Here are some of my favorite plants that you should take a look at if you have an area that could benefit from some low-growers that tend to spread.
Purple Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)
In my opinion, this is one of the most versatile groundcovers you can find. Throughout the growing season, you’ll see a virtual carpet of bright green foliage that continues right into winter. In June/July, it produces a mass of tiny purplish-blue flowers with white markings. A tough, long-lasting plant, Mazus reptans is easy to grow. Each plant reaches a height of no more than two inches, spreading out to six inches or so, making it ideal for rock gardens and in between stepping stones. It does well in full sun to light shade and prefers moist but well-drained soil.
Verbena “Superbena” Burgundy
The Superbenas are a variety of Verbenas that have been bred to withstand heat and mildew, and that can be an important benefit in some areas. It produces large burgundy blooms on dark green leaves and will regenerate vigorous growth when you cut it back. With a maximum height of twelve inches, it makes a colorful groundcover that is popular with Swallowtail butterflies, and is a good choice for containers, baskets and window boxes.
Creeping Red Thyme (Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus)
You might be aware of the fragrance before you even see this fast, low-growing evergreen that is a good choice as a groundcover or between pavers for an attractive, rustic look. Easy to grow in full or partial sun and shade.
Phlox, Creeping Emerald Blue (Phlox subulata)
A rocky embankment or outcropping where weeding, tending or mowing is hazardous or impossible? Creeping Emerald Blue Phlox could be an ideal solution. I’ve also admired it in the nooks and crannies of dry stone retaining walls and around rock waterfalls. Locations of that nature are ideal for Phlox as it enjoys the good drainage provided by elevated planting. For contrast, try mixing it with Creeping Candy Stripe Phlox with its tiny pink and white flowers.
Liriope Big Blue
For some thing a bit taller, try this tufted evergreen groundcover with its arching, grass-like foliage. In the summer, you’ll see an abundance of blue flower spikes that are followed by clusters of black berries in the fall. In addition to hard-to-get-at areas, Liriope is a good choice for borders and edging.
Trailing Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
Continuing the “blue” theme, don’t forget Trailing Periwinkle, a delightful evergreen with dense, shiny, oval-shaped foliage that forms an almost flat, springy carpet adding soft, rolling contours to landscaping. In early spring, the foliage is covered with blue (yes, periwinkle blue) flowers. Vinca minor likes fairly good soil and does well in full sun, partial sun or shade.
Pachysandra terminalis
Introduced from Japan circa 1882, pachysandra is one of the most planted groundcovers in America. Most everyone is familiar with this rapidly spreading plant that thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens.
A spreading plant isn’t necessarily a negative, as long as you plant it in a location where its natural tendency is a benefit rather than a nuisance.
Yes, there are a number of attractive plants that have a reputation for spreading out across, and sometimes beyond, the area in which they are planted. This can be a problem and it is advisable to investigate the “spreading habit” of any plant before you buy, if that is a potential problem in the designated planting location.
But a plant’s “spreadability” is not necessarily a bad thing. Spreading plants can be just what you are looking for in the right circumstances. They can choke out weeds, reduce soil erosion and beautify a sloping or rocky area that is difficult to mow.
Here are some of my favorite plants that you should take a look at if you have an area that could benefit from some low-growers that tend to spread.
Purple Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)
In my opinion, this is one of the most versatile groundcovers you can find. Throughout the growing season, you’ll see a virtual carpet of bright green foliage that continues right into winter. In June/July, it produces a mass of tiny purplish-blue flowers with white markings. A tough, long-lasting plant, Mazus reptans is easy to grow. Each plant reaches a height of no more than two inches, spreading out to six inches or so, making it ideal for rock gardens and in between stepping stones. It does well in full sun to light shade and prefers moist but well-drained soil.
Verbena “Superbena” Burgundy
The Superbenas are a variety of Verbenas that have been bred to withstand heat and mildew, and that can be an important benefit in some areas. It produces large burgundy blooms on dark green leaves and will regenerate vigorous growth when you cut it back. With a maximum height of twelve inches, it makes a colorful groundcover that is popular with Swallowtail butterflies, and is a good choice for containers, baskets and window boxes.
Creeping Red Thyme (Thymus praecox subsp. arcticus)
You might be aware of the fragrance before you even see this fast, low-growing evergreen that is a good choice as a groundcover or between pavers for an attractive, rustic look. Easy to grow in full or partial sun and shade.
Phlox, Creeping Emerald Blue (Phlox subulata)
A rocky embankment or outcropping where weeding, tending or mowing is hazardous or impossible? Creeping Emerald Blue Phlox could be an ideal solution. I’ve also admired it in the nooks and crannies of dry stone retaining walls and around rock waterfalls. Locations of that nature are ideal for Phlox as it enjoys the good drainage provided by elevated planting. For contrast, try mixing it with Creeping Candy Stripe Phlox with its tiny pink and white flowers.
Liriope Big Blue
For some thing a bit taller, try this tufted evergreen groundcover with its arching, grass-like foliage. In the summer, you’ll see an abundance of blue flower spikes that are followed by clusters of black berries in the fall. In addition to hard-to-get-at areas, Liriope is a good choice for borders and edging.
Trailing Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
Continuing the “blue” theme, don’t forget Trailing Periwinkle, a delightful evergreen with dense, shiny, oval-shaped foliage that forms an almost flat, springy carpet adding soft, rolling contours to landscaping. In early spring, the foliage is covered with blue (yes, periwinkle blue) flowers. Vinca minor likes fairly good soil and does well in full sun, partial sun or shade.
Pachysandra terminalis
Introduced from Japan circa 1882, pachysandra is one of the most planted groundcovers in America. Most everyone is familiar with this rapidly spreading plant that thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens.
A spreading plant isn’t necessarily a negative, as long as you plant it in a location where its natural tendency is a benefit rather than a nuisance.
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Storm-damaged trees need special TLC
QUESTION: “Last week, during a storm, a 40-ft. limb was ripped down from an 80-ft tree, leaving a hole about 5-ft. diameter. Should I seal this somehow?” RaDonna
ANSWER: It sounds as though your tree has experienced some pretty significant damage and an older tree will have a difficult time of repairing itself. At this time you may want to have an expert in your area look at the tree to see if there is a chance it will be healthy enough to do this. Check with your local agricultural extension agent, your local conservation district office (also known as NRCS) or an arborist.
Quite often, younger trees can get by on a broken limb and, without any sealing, make it through and remain healthy. Older trees are different in that respect and a 5 foot hole is quite large.
Do try to contact one of the people that I suggested and I hope your tree makes a good recovery.
RaDonna’s question reminded me that a lot of people all over the country have experienced weather-related damage to trees and shrubs recently. This prompted me to do some online research to find information that readers with storm-damaged trees would find useful.
First up: an article, by Consumer Horticulturist Erv Evans, at a Web site hosted by North Carolina State University.
“Treatment of storm-damaged trees requires wise decisions and prompt action if the maximum benefit from repair work is to be achieved,” says Evans. “Repairs come in two stages: first aid for immediate attention; and follow-up work to be distributed over a period of months to several years. Care for damaged large trees is best left to professionals.”
All the experts agree that the first thing to do is decide if the tree is actually worth saving. Is there a sentimental or historical value to the tree? Does it serve a particular function that makes extraordinary action worthwhile?
Evans makes the point that if more than 30 to 50 percent of the main branches or trunk are severely split, broken, or mutilated, the benefit of extensive repairs is questionable.
If a damaged tree does need to be removed, it’s probably a job for experts, particularly if it’s a large, older tree or has precariously hanging, damaged limbs. Removing a tree that’s close to overhead power lines or with roots possibly near underground utilities is always a job for the professionals!
To read the entire article, go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/tree_damage.html or go to my Web site, www.landsteward.org and click on a direct link from this column.
“Repairing Storm Damaged Trees,” is a very practical “how to” article by Melvin R. Koelling and Russell P. Kidd of the Michigan State University Forestry Department.
Before you start cutting, they say, assess the damage to decide which branches should be removed and where to cut. There are several good diagrams with the article that show you where – and where NOT – to cut.
Koelling and Kidd state that branches smaller than 3-inch diameter can best be removed using a pruning shears or a pole-pruner. A sharp, properly aligned shears or pruner will make a clean cut, not crush or tear bark tissue and reduce clean-up time.
Use a sharp saw to remove larger branches. If a power saw is used, a safety rope and harness are essential, they say. Be particularly careful when footing is unsure. At all times, use common sense and follow all recommended safety precautions when working with equipment in and around trees.
Again, my personal advice is to leave anything more than minor trimming to the experts to avoid the possibility of serious injury.
You can find the entire article at http://www.kbs.msu.edu/extension/storm/ which is a “must read” if you are unsure what to do about a tree that has taken a hit from a recent storm.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: It sounds as though your tree has experienced some pretty significant damage and an older tree will have a difficult time of repairing itself. At this time you may want to have an expert in your area look at the tree to see if there is a chance it will be healthy enough to do this. Check with your local agricultural extension agent, your local conservation district office (also known as NRCS) or an arborist.
Quite often, younger trees can get by on a broken limb and, without any sealing, make it through and remain healthy. Older trees are different in that respect and a 5 foot hole is quite large.
Do try to contact one of the people that I suggested and I hope your tree makes a good recovery.
RaDonna’s question reminded me that a lot of people all over the country have experienced weather-related damage to trees and shrubs recently. This prompted me to do some online research to find information that readers with storm-damaged trees would find useful.
First up: an article, by Consumer Horticulturist Erv Evans, at a Web site hosted by North Carolina State University.
“Treatment of storm-damaged trees requires wise decisions and prompt action if the maximum benefit from repair work is to be achieved,” says Evans. “Repairs come in two stages: first aid for immediate attention; and follow-up work to be distributed over a period of months to several years. Care for damaged large trees is best left to professionals.”
All the experts agree that the first thing to do is decide if the tree is actually worth saving. Is there a sentimental or historical value to the tree? Does it serve a particular function that makes extraordinary action worthwhile?
Evans makes the point that if more than 30 to 50 percent of the main branches or trunk are severely split, broken, or mutilated, the benefit of extensive repairs is questionable.
If a damaged tree does need to be removed, it’s probably a job for experts, particularly if it’s a large, older tree or has precariously hanging, damaged limbs. Removing a tree that’s close to overhead power lines or with roots possibly near underground utilities is always a job for the professionals!
To read the entire article, go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/tree_damage.html or go to my Web site, www.landsteward.org and click on a direct link from this column.
“Repairing Storm Damaged Trees,” is a very practical “how to” article by Melvin R. Koelling and Russell P. Kidd of the Michigan State University Forestry Department.
Before you start cutting, they say, assess the damage to decide which branches should be removed and where to cut. There are several good diagrams with the article that show you where – and where NOT – to cut.
Koelling and Kidd state that branches smaller than 3-inch diameter can best be removed using a pruning shears or a pole-pruner. A sharp, properly aligned shears or pruner will make a clean cut, not crush or tear bark tissue and reduce clean-up time.
Use a sharp saw to remove larger branches. If a power saw is used, a safety rope and harness are essential, they say. Be particularly careful when footing is unsure. At all times, use common sense and follow all recommended safety precautions when working with equipment in and around trees.
Again, my personal advice is to leave anything more than minor trimming to the experts to avoid the possibility of serious injury.
You can find the entire article at http://www.kbs.msu.edu/extension/storm/ which is a “must read” if you are unsure what to do about a tree that has taken a hit from a recent storm.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Pruning plants keeps them healthy and shapely
Pruning. You stand in front of the shrub, shaking hands clutching the shears. Where to start? What if I clip off too much? Maybe I’ll just leave it…
Actually, pruning doesn’t have to be scary. Unless you are severely brutal, like the arboreal version of a slasher movie villain, you are unlikely to do irreparable damage.
QUESTION: “I planted about 8 Knockout roses last spring. They did nicely through the summer and fall. What do I need to do to get them ready for another good year?” – Bob B.
ANSWER: This is a good time of year to prune those roses. Clip out all dead, broken and damaged branches, and those that are crossing, and touching. Once that is accomplished, you can decide if you want to take any off the top as this is when you can shape your rose shrubs.
If you want to apply any fertilizer to them, this would also be the time. I should say that, better than fertilizer, you can put a fresh supply of aged compost around the base of each one (leaving a well area at the base of the plant so that the trunk doesn't touch the compost).
They don't require deadheading, but I always clip the tops of the plants back around the latter part of July. They flush out beautifully for the last part of summer and early fall. Enjoy those beautiful Knockout roses!
QUESTION: “We planted Sunburst Honeylocust trees 2 and 3 years ago. They have had very rapid growth this season. The problem is this. The new growth is growing so fast that it is getting a weeping form with branches weeping too low to the ground. If I remove the entire branch it will really become top heavy. Even the top branches of the leader steam are weeping – a lot.
“From what I have read, I don't want to tip the tree branches, but how do I trim the top heavy weeping from a young Honeylocust without completely removing the branch? There aren't that many branches on the tree so I don't really want to remove any. They are all weeping but the lowest and the highest are the most bothersome. It appears that the new young growth is so soft it cannot support its own length. What do I do? I'm afraid they won't make it through the winter without substantial breakage if I leave them the way they are.” -- Alysia Iosty
ANSWER: This one should be fairly simple. When removing the lower branches just remember the fewer branches for growth, the more energy will go into what is left. If the lower branches need to be removed because of the need to mow under the tree or just for esthetics I would simply go ahead and remove them.
The top leader is the only one to be concerned with, but again, not that much! You can take a ladder if necessary, go to the top part of the tree and snip back right above the bud where you will top the tree. The following season, it will create another top leader but by doing this you will cause it to do more branching down below. This is more desirable in the overall appearance and strength of the tree. Side branches can be trimmed the same way back to where it is not weeping. Trimming will make it a more desirable tree.
QUESTION: “Our hostas have holes in their leaves! They appear to be eaten by a bug. Any recommendations on what we should do?” -- Pat Smith
ANSWER: From what you tell me, an educated guess would be that the culprits are the common garden variety of slugs. We also have them. You can find molluscicides at many garden centers, but a popular home remedy is a bowl of beer. Slugs are attracted to the beer, get in the bowl and drown. Use a container that slugs would find easy to climb into.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Actually, pruning doesn’t have to be scary. Unless you are severely brutal, like the arboreal version of a slasher movie villain, you are unlikely to do irreparable damage.
QUESTION: “I planted about 8 Knockout roses last spring. They did nicely through the summer and fall. What do I need to do to get them ready for another good year?” – Bob B.
ANSWER: This is a good time of year to prune those roses. Clip out all dead, broken and damaged branches, and those that are crossing, and touching. Once that is accomplished, you can decide if you want to take any off the top as this is when you can shape your rose shrubs.
If you want to apply any fertilizer to them, this would also be the time. I should say that, better than fertilizer, you can put a fresh supply of aged compost around the base of each one (leaving a well area at the base of the plant so that the trunk doesn't touch the compost).
They don't require deadheading, but I always clip the tops of the plants back around the latter part of July. They flush out beautifully for the last part of summer and early fall. Enjoy those beautiful Knockout roses!
QUESTION: “We planted Sunburst Honeylocust trees 2 and 3 years ago. They have had very rapid growth this season. The problem is this. The new growth is growing so fast that it is getting a weeping form with branches weeping too low to the ground. If I remove the entire branch it will really become top heavy. Even the top branches of the leader steam are weeping – a lot.
“From what I have read, I don't want to tip the tree branches, but how do I trim the top heavy weeping from a young Honeylocust without completely removing the branch? There aren't that many branches on the tree so I don't really want to remove any. They are all weeping but the lowest and the highest are the most bothersome. It appears that the new young growth is so soft it cannot support its own length. What do I do? I'm afraid they won't make it through the winter without substantial breakage if I leave them the way they are.” -- Alysia Iosty
ANSWER: This one should be fairly simple. When removing the lower branches just remember the fewer branches for growth, the more energy will go into what is left. If the lower branches need to be removed because of the need to mow under the tree or just for esthetics I would simply go ahead and remove them.
The top leader is the only one to be concerned with, but again, not that much! You can take a ladder if necessary, go to the top part of the tree and snip back right above the bud where you will top the tree. The following season, it will create another top leader but by doing this you will cause it to do more branching down below. This is more desirable in the overall appearance and strength of the tree. Side branches can be trimmed the same way back to where it is not weeping. Trimming will make it a more desirable tree.
QUESTION: “Our hostas have holes in their leaves! They appear to be eaten by a bug. Any recommendations on what we should do?” -- Pat Smith
ANSWER: From what you tell me, an educated guess would be that the culprits are the common garden variety of slugs. We also have them. You can find molluscicides at many garden centers, but a popular home remedy is a bowl of beer. Slugs are attracted to the beer, get in the bowl and drown. Use a container that slugs would find easy to climb into.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Raised beds can help gardeners’ aching backs
If your knees creak and your back aches when you are gardening, perhaps you should build some raised beds to make your life easier.
There are several advantages to raised beds. The first and most obvious benefit is to your health and wellbeing Regardless of your age, kneeling or bending over your plants even for a few minutes can cause aches and pains. After a while, you can be tempted to leave plants untended and bed beds unweeded. A raised bed avoids that temptation!
Additionally, standing or walking on your garden can compact the soil which can adversely affect drainage and the flow of oxygen to the plants’ roots. Hopefully, you wouldn’t be standing on a raised bed!
When you have a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest while sitting or standing, which eliminates pressure on the soil and on your bones and muscles. In many cases you can’t plant earlier in the spring and harvest later in the fall because raised beds warm up earlier in the spring and stay warm later in the fall. And a raised bed is the ideal location for potentially invasive plants such as horseradish or mint.
If someone in your family is elderly or physically challenged, a raised bed can allow them to enjoy gardening again, perhaps for the first time in many years. A recent Plant Man column on the subject of gardening for the physically challenged brought a number of responses from readers, showing me just how important a topic this is. Here’s an e-mail I received from Shelby Snider in Virginia.
“As a Virginia Master Gardener, I do Horticultural Therapy at an Assisted Living home near me. With the help of a few good companies donating material and the help of my husband with the labor, we put in a therapy garden for the residents a couple of years ago.
“I am sending some pictures of the residents working there. Sometimes the residents just go out and sit in the chairs and enjoy the gardens. Before this there was nothing there but grass.
“We have two brick companies near us and they donated brick pavers for all the walking area. A block company donated concrete blocks for the raised beds which are four feet wide by 10 ft long. After we put the blocks up for the beds I sprayed the inside of the beds with a spray adhesive and lined the beds with a heavy grade of black plastic. I did this so the concrete blocks would not change the pH of my soil. I folded the top of the plastic back under the concrete caps that were put on top of the wall. I then painted the blocks and did a faux finish on the outside.
“I like the blocks because if the residents want to sit while they work or just enjoy the garden, they have a place to sit. This same concept could be done on a smaller scale. Yes, you can use concrete blocks if you do what I did.”
Although building a raised bed can be quite a labor-intensive project, it is not exceptionally difficult nor does it require advanced carpentry skills. You can find a lot of information on the Internet when you initiate a search for “raised plant beds.”
You can use concrete blocks, as Shelby did, or opt for wood instead. For a low bed, railroad ties or landscape timbers are fine. For taller beds, 2 x 12 lumber is a better choice.
Whether it’s for practical reasons or purely aesthetic, a raised bed can be a great addition to your garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
There are several advantages to raised beds. The first and most obvious benefit is to your health and wellbeing Regardless of your age, kneeling or bending over your plants even for a few minutes can cause aches and pains. After a while, you can be tempted to leave plants untended and bed beds unweeded. A raised bed avoids that temptation!
Additionally, standing or walking on your garden can compact the soil which can adversely affect drainage and the flow of oxygen to the plants’ roots. Hopefully, you wouldn’t be standing on a raised bed!
When you have a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest while sitting or standing, which eliminates pressure on the soil and on your bones and muscles. In many cases you can’t plant earlier in the spring and harvest later in the fall because raised beds warm up earlier in the spring and stay warm later in the fall. And a raised bed is the ideal location for potentially invasive plants such as horseradish or mint.
If someone in your family is elderly or physically challenged, a raised bed can allow them to enjoy gardening again, perhaps for the first time in many years. A recent Plant Man column on the subject of gardening for the physically challenged brought a number of responses from readers, showing me just how important a topic this is. Here’s an e-mail I received from Shelby Snider in Virginia.
“As a Virginia Master Gardener, I do Horticultural Therapy at an Assisted Living home near me. With the help of a few good companies donating material and the help of my husband with the labor, we put in a therapy garden for the residents a couple of years ago.
“I am sending some pictures of the residents working there. Sometimes the residents just go out and sit in the chairs and enjoy the gardens. Before this there was nothing there but grass.
“We have two brick companies near us and they donated brick pavers for all the walking area. A block company donated concrete blocks for the raised beds which are four feet wide by 10 ft long. After we put the blocks up for the beds I sprayed the inside of the beds with a spray adhesive and lined the beds with a heavy grade of black plastic. I did this so the concrete blocks would not change the pH of my soil. I folded the top of the plastic back under the concrete caps that were put on top of the wall. I then painted the blocks and did a faux finish on the outside.
“I like the blocks because if the residents want to sit while they work or just enjoy the garden, they have a place to sit. This same concept could be done on a smaller scale. Yes, you can use concrete blocks if you do what I did.”
Although building a raised bed can be quite a labor-intensive project, it is not exceptionally difficult nor does it require advanced carpentry skills. You can find a lot of information on the Internet when you initiate a search for “raised plant beds.”
You can use concrete blocks, as Shelby did, or opt for wood instead. For a low bed, railroad ties or landscape timbers are fine. For taller beds, 2 x 12 lumber is a better choice.
Whether it’s for practical reasons or purely aesthetic, a raised bed can be a great addition to your garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Pine cones keep kitty out of flower beds
If neighborhood cats or other critters are digging in your flower beds, try this neat tip from reader Nancy Jones:
“I have tried something I read about to help keep the neighbors’ seven cats out of my side flower garden where the soil is loose and rich with peat moss and they love that for their personal bathroom. “I go to an apartment complex near my house and gather up laundry baskets of pine cones and then spread them around in my garden. This seems to work. “I have noticed the fecal matter problem has disappeared since I started doing this. Of course, it will need a little renewal of the pine cones, but they seem to last and last. “I should say that I don't put them down really thick. I just sort of sprinkle them around the plants. The reason this is supposed to work is because the cats don't like the feeling on their little paws. I have done this for about ten years and it works for me!”
QUESTION: “My husband & I planted a Bradford pear tree in our front yard when we built our house six years ago. We don't have a sprinkler system and the yard gets direct sun most of the day. The tree has not grown much in this six year period. Our next door neighbor planted the same type of tree after ours and theirs is huge.
“We planted two autumn maples two years ago and they are not growing either. We are concerned that we did not dig the holes wide enough and that the roots are not spreading as they should. What do you think? If the holes are not wide enough, can we dig around the trees to widen the holes?” – Sheri Brooks
ANSWER: Maples are slow growing trees, so don’t count on a lot of activity (at least noticeable activity) with them for awhile. Regarding the Bradford Pear, if it is producing any growth at all, then what you are seeing may be the plant’s natural growth rate. Is the tree beginning to bloom in early spring, followed by normal leafing out? If it is, then it has settled into a slower growing phase.
All factors would be based on the environment, which will include maintenance, unless you have noticed any health issues with the tree. Although it is difficult not to make comparisons with your neighbor’s tree, plants are living things just like people and will grow and develop at their own rate. I wouldn’t recommend digging around the tree’s root system as you suggest because you are likely to cut off growth that the tree has made over the past 6 years.
If you believe that there is a problem with the plant, you can contact your local Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) which will be listed in your local phone directory under your state’s department of agriculture.
QUESTION: “I have an amateur greenhouse and want to start some seeds. Every time I have started seeds in the past they come up spindly and I still don't know what I need to do to correct this.
”I have panoramic light, air circulation and regulated heat, as well as good humidity. All my plants I winter in the greenhouse thrive in these conditions. Thanks for any info!” – Bonnie Meador
ANSWER: When seeds are allowed to sprout and grow too fast they become spindly. Once the seeds have sprouted they need to be “tempered” by placing them into a less desirable environment. In your case you could try cutting back on the water and reduce the humidity by taking the extra hothouse-type screen off the top. The environment in the rest of the greenhouse works for your developed plants but is not good for your new sprouts once they come up. It just sounds as if you are babying them too much after they emerge. Just cut back some on the water and nutrients until they begin to fatten up.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
“I have tried something I read about to help keep the neighbors’ seven cats out of my side flower garden where the soil is loose and rich with peat moss and they love that for their personal bathroom. “I go to an apartment complex near my house and gather up laundry baskets of pine cones and then spread them around in my garden. This seems to work. “I have noticed the fecal matter problem has disappeared since I started doing this. Of course, it will need a little renewal of the pine cones, but they seem to last and last. “I should say that I don't put them down really thick. I just sort of sprinkle them around the plants. The reason this is supposed to work is because the cats don't like the feeling on their little paws. I have done this for about ten years and it works for me!”
QUESTION: “My husband & I planted a Bradford pear tree in our front yard when we built our house six years ago. We don't have a sprinkler system and the yard gets direct sun most of the day. The tree has not grown much in this six year period. Our next door neighbor planted the same type of tree after ours and theirs is huge.
“We planted two autumn maples two years ago and they are not growing either. We are concerned that we did not dig the holes wide enough and that the roots are not spreading as they should. What do you think? If the holes are not wide enough, can we dig around the trees to widen the holes?” – Sheri Brooks
ANSWER: Maples are slow growing trees, so don’t count on a lot of activity (at least noticeable activity) with them for awhile. Regarding the Bradford Pear, if it is producing any growth at all, then what you are seeing may be the plant’s natural growth rate. Is the tree beginning to bloom in early spring, followed by normal leafing out? If it is, then it has settled into a slower growing phase.
All factors would be based on the environment, which will include maintenance, unless you have noticed any health issues with the tree. Although it is difficult not to make comparisons with your neighbor’s tree, plants are living things just like people and will grow and develop at their own rate. I wouldn’t recommend digging around the tree’s root system as you suggest because you are likely to cut off growth that the tree has made over the past 6 years.
If you believe that there is a problem with the plant, you can contact your local Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) which will be listed in your local phone directory under your state’s department of agriculture.
QUESTION: “I have an amateur greenhouse and want to start some seeds. Every time I have started seeds in the past they come up spindly and I still don't know what I need to do to correct this.
”I have panoramic light, air circulation and regulated heat, as well as good humidity. All my plants I winter in the greenhouse thrive in these conditions. Thanks for any info!” – Bonnie Meador
ANSWER: When seeds are allowed to sprout and grow too fast they become spindly. Once the seeds have sprouted they need to be “tempered” by placing them into a less desirable environment. In your case you could try cutting back on the water and reduce the humidity by taking the extra hothouse-type screen off the top. The environment in the rest of the greenhouse works for your developed plants but is not good for your new sprouts once they come up. It just sounds as if you are babying them too much after they emerge. Just cut back some on the water and nutrients until they begin to fatten up.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, March 04, 2008
New plant varieties surprise even seasoned gardeners
One of the delights of owning a nursery, as Cheryl and I do, is the continual discovery of new plants or plants we never before knew existed.
Just when we think we must have seen it all, botanists and horticulturists surprise us with new varieties that still make us say, “Wow!” after all these years.
Often, these new varieties are developed under a cloak of secrecy with as high a regard for security as, say, an automobile company designing and testing a new car. It might surprise you to know that botanists submit their new varieties to the U.S. Patent Office, along with lengthy descriptions and illustrations of their “inventions.” Highly precise detail is required in order to demonstrate that the plant in question really is a new variety, developed by the horticulturists who are submitting it.
If you would like to see what a plant patent submission looks like, you can find one for a peach tree named Corinthian Rose at http://www.freepatentsonline.com/PP11564.html You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
The Corinthian Rose (Prunus persica Corinthian Rose to be precise) really is a spectacular flowering tree judging from the pictures I’ve seen. We have planted some already and we are looking forward to watching them develop, as we do with all of our new “discoveries.”
If you’re looking to start a peach orchard, this isn’t the tree for you. Corinthian Rose bears little or no fruit. This new cultivar is intended for ornamental use in the home landscape.
One of its most distinct characteristics is its narrowly columnar growth habit. The tree will reach a height of 20 to 30 feet at maturity with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet.
So why is “rose” part of its name?
Around May and June, it bursts forth with double pink rose-colored blooms, giving the appearance of an unusually large and impressive rose bush, rather than an ornamental peach tree. When the blooms are gone, Corinthian Rose can still be enjoyed for its distinctive dark purple leaves.
I think this would be the ideal tree to enhance a patio area for any sunny spot in the garden that could become a focal point of its surrounding landscape. It has a vigorous growth pattern, reaching 14 to 16 feet in about four years. You would need to follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season in order to establish a deep and extensive root system. Before new growth begins in spring, feed it with a general purpose fertilizer.
You can find more information and where to buy Corinthian Rose peach trees by going to Google and simply typing in the words Corinthian Rose.
Horticulturists develop new varieties to create plants that are beautiful and esthetically pleasing to the eye. However, they will also develop cultivars for more practical reasons.
Take, for example, Wintercreeper. It is an attractive family of plants but some varieties are known for their spreading characteristics.
As a result, a relatively new variety was developed that has a much-reduced spread pattern. Known as Emerald Gaiety Wintercreeper or Euonymus Emerald Gaiety, this variety is a versatile and undemanding shrub that does fine in full sun or fairly deep shade and even in quite dry soil.
Emerald Gaiety has green and cream variegated foliage that turns to pinkish red in winter. It can reach 4 to 5 feet in height and a width of about 3 feet with a dense, erect branching habit that makes it a good choice for a hedge or screen.
Of course there are times when a spreading or climbing plant is exactly what you need. For example, Emerald Gaiety’s smaller cousin, Purple Wintercreeper, is an ideal choice if you’re looking for a low-growing groundcover for a hard-to-mow slope with the added benefit that it can help to control soil erosion.
New varieties can please the senses and serve practical purposes. There’s always something new to grow in the garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Just when we think we must have seen it all, botanists and horticulturists surprise us with new varieties that still make us say, “Wow!” after all these years.
Often, these new varieties are developed under a cloak of secrecy with as high a regard for security as, say, an automobile company designing and testing a new car. It might surprise you to know that botanists submit their new varieties to the U.S. Patent Office, along with lengthy descriptions and illustrations of their “inventions.” Highly precise detail is required in order to demonstrate that the plant in question really is a new variety, developed by the horticulturists who are submitting it.
If you would like to see what a plant patent submission looks like, you can find one for a peach tree named Corinthian Rose at http://www.freepatentsonline.com/PP11564.html You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
The Corinthian Rose (Prunus persica Corinthian Rose to be precise) really is a spectacular flowering tree judging from the pictures I’ve seen. We have planted some already and we are looking forward to watching them develop, as we do with all of our new “discoveries.”
If you’re looking to start a peach orchard, this isn’t the tree for you. Corinthian Rose bears little or no fruit. This new cultivar is intended for ornamental use in the home landscape.
One of its most distinct characteristics is its narrowly columnar growth habit. The tree will reach a height of 20 to 30 feet at maturity with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet.
So why is “rose” part of its name?
Around May and June, it bursts forth with double pink rose-colored blooms, giving the appearance of an unusually large and impressive rose bush, rather than an ornamental peach tree. When the blooms are gone, Corinthian Rose can still be enjoyed for its distinctive dark purple leaves.
I think this would be the ideal tree to enhance a patio area for any sunny spot in the garden that could become a focal point of its surrounding landscape. It has a vigorous growth pattern, reaching 14 to 16 feet in about four years. You would need to follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season in order to establish a deep and extensive root system. Before new growth begins in spring, feed it with a general purpose fertilizer.
You can find more information and where to buy Corinthian Rose peach trees by going to Google and simply typing in the words Corinthian Rose.
Horticulturists develop new varieties to create plants that are beautiful and esthetically pleasing to the eye. However, they will also develop cultivars for more practical reasons.
Take, for example, Wintercreeper. It is an attractive family of plants but some varieties are known for their spreading characteristics.
As a result, a relatively new variety was developed that has a much-reduced spread pattern. Known as Emerald Gaiety Wintercreeper or Euonymus Emerald Gaiety, this variety is a versatile and undemanding shrub that does fine in full sun or fairly deep shade and even in quite dry soil.
Emerald Gaiety has green and cream variegated foliage that turns to pinkish red in winter. It can reach 4 to 5 feet in height and a width of about 3 feet with a dense, erect branching habit that makes it a good choice for a hedge or screen.
Of course there are times when a spreading or climbing plant is exactly what you need. For example, Emerald Gaiety’s smaller cousin, Purple Wintercreeper, is an ideal choice if you’re looking for a low-growing groundcover for a hard-to-mow slope with the added benefit that it can help to control soil erosion.
New varieties can please the senses and serve practical purposes. There’s always something new to grow in the garden!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Clean up, fix up garden in time for spring
The first day of spring is just around the corner. All over America, garden lovers are coming out of their metaphorical hibernation and beginning to head back outside with that eternal optimism that this year’s garden will be an improvement over last year’s!
The Vernal Equinox, to give this day its official title, falls on March 20th, 2008, with day and night being of equal duration. There’s something about the first day of spring that lifts the spirits of everyone. But those of us who spend a lot of time outdoors for work or pleasure take particular delight in the official arrival of spring.
Even chores seem less chore-like. Just as preparing a meal is more enjoyable than doing the dishes afterwards, spring garden tasks are more fun than stowing away everything as the winter chill approaches.
Here are just a few items to put on your garden to-do list.
Clean up
Rain, frost and winter storms can cover your landscape with twigs, small tree limbs and other debris. During those cold weeks, you didn’t feel motivated to go out there and pick up all those bits and pieces, but now it’s time. Patrol your land with a lawn and leaf bag to collect the smaller bits and haul away the big pieces. Make this your first task because, in addition to cleaning up your space, you will discover any areas that might have become damaged over the winter and will require some TLC.
Weeding
Soft moist soil makes weeding much easier and this time of year usually provides those conditions. Look for weed seedlings that you can remove before they mature. It might be tempting to add these pulled weeds to your compost but resist the temptation. You’ll simply be creating a weed farm!
Compost
However, non-weed material can be added to compost. Many gardeners like to start a new compost pile alongside last year’s “mature” pile. You can add leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peelings and even straw and paper. As well as weeds, avoid adding any plant material that appears to be diseased.
Pruning
There’s a lot of fear and trepidation about pruning, particularly when it comes to when and how much to prune. Pruning at the wrong time might cause a shrub to not bloom that season, but is unlikely to be a death sentence. Among the plants that can be pruned in early spring while still dormant are: Flowering Dogwood, Bradford Pear, Wisteria, Red Bud, and Crape Myrtle.
If you are in doubt about pruning, I recommend a visit to this Web site http://gardening.about.com/od/treesshrubs/a/PruneTreeShrubs.htm for a comprehensive “how and when” guide. You can also go to gardening.about.com and simply search the phrase “When to prune.”
Ornamental grasses
If you left your ornamental grasses untrimmed over winter, now is the time to trim them back. Simply snipping away at them gives you quite a lot of clean-up. To prevent this, gather together the stems in bundles and wrap masking tape tightly around the mid-section. Lean the bundle to one side and use shears or a hedge trimmer to cut the grasses back to ground level. Take the bundles to your compost pile and snip off the masking tape.
Preparing new beds
The ideal time to dig a new bed is in the fall. The soil is usually drier and the warmth of late fall sunshine helps along any soil amendments you added, working through the winter, ready for you to plant in the spring
But it’s still possible to start a new bed in the spring. Avoid this task when the soil is wet and heavy. You’ll find it is far easier once the soil is drier.
As you can see, this is just a quick overview of early spring garden needs. I’m happy to respond to any specific questions that you wish to send me via e-mail. You can find literally hundreds of in-depth articles at my Web site. You might also wish to visit a site hosted by the National Gardening Association: http://garden.org/home where you can type in your zip code for a report for your geographical region.
Spring fever… catch it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
The Vernal Equinox, to give this day its official title, falls on March 20th, 2008, with day and night being of equal duration. There’s something about the first day of spring that lifts the spirits of everyone. But those of us who spend a lot of time outdoors for work or pleasure take particular delight in the official arrival of spring.
Even chores seem less chore-like. Just as preparing a meal is more enjoyable than doing the dishes afterwards, spring garden tasks are more fun than stowing away everything as the winter chill approaches.
Here are just a few items to put on your garden to-do list.
Clean up
Rain, frost and winter storms can cover your landscape with twigs, small tree limbs and other debris. During those cold weeks, you didn’t feel motivated to go out there and pick up all those bits and pieces, but now it’s time. Patrol your land with a lawn and leaf bag to collect the smaller bits and haul away the big pieces. Make this your first task because, in addition to cleaning up your space, you will discover any areas that might have become damaged over the winter and will require some TLC.
Weeding
Soft moist soil makes weeding much easier and this time of year usually provides those conditions. Look for weed seedlings that you can remove before they mature. It might be tempting to add these pulled weeds to your compost but resist the temptation. You’ll simply be creating a weed farm!
Compost
However, non-weed material can be added to compost. Many gardeners like to start a new compost pile alongside last year’s “mature” pile. You can add leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peelings and even straw and paper. As well as weeds, avoid adding any plant material that appears to be diseased.
Pruning
There’s a lot of fear and trepidation about pruning, particularly when it comes to when and how much to prune. Pruning at the wrong time might cause a shrub to not bloom that season, but is unlikely to be a death sentence. Among the plants that can be pruned in early spring while still dormant are: Flowering Dogwood, Bradford Pear, Wisteria, Red Bud, and Crape Myrtle.
If you are in doubt about pruning, I recommend a visit to this Web site http://gardening.about.com/od/treesshrubs/a/PruneTreeShrubs.htm for a comprehensive “how and when” guide. You can also go to gardening.about.com and simply search the phrase “When to prune.”
Ornamental grasses
If you left your ornamental grasses untrimmed over winter, now is the time to trim them back. Simply snipping away at them gives you quite a lot of clean-up. To prevent this, gather together the stems in bundles and wrap masking tape tightly around the mid-section. Lean the bundle to one side and use shears or a hedge trimmer to cut the grasses back to ground level. Take the bundles to your compost pile and snip off the masking tape.
Preparing new beds
The ideal time to dig a new bed is in the fall. The soil is usually drier and the warmth of late fall sunshine helps along any soil amendments you added, working through the winter, ready for you to plant in the spring
But it’s still possible to start a new bed in the spring. Avoid this task when the soil is wet and heavy. You’ll find it is far easier once the soil is drier.
As you can see, this is just a quick overview of early spring garden needs. I’m happy to respond to any specific questions that you wish to send me via e-mail. You can find literally hundreds of in-depth articles at my Web site. You might also wish to visit a site hosted by the National Gardening Association: http://garden.org/home where you can type in your zip code for a report for your geographical region.
Spring fever… catch it!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Vinegar may be a potent weed killer
Wherever possible, I prefer to find organic solutions to garden problems. Several readers have asked me about using vinegar to eradicate weeds.
QUESTION: “I am looking for some info on organic weed killers. I have numerous recipes for organic weed killers with testimonials on how effective they are. They all call for high acidic vinegar or industrial vinegar. I have searched high and low and have not found where I can purchase this miracle of modern man! I have been in the gardening business for years and have had my own business for the past three years (organically based as much as my customers will allow) and find myself feeling grossly inadequate when it comes to this. If you could please let me in on your wonderful wealth of knowledge and pass on the golden key, it would mean the world to me.” – Laurie Orsini
ANSWER: There is quite a lot of research under way into the effectiveness of vinegar as a weed killer. I found a online article that you should definitely look at. You can read it at (Please note the original article is no longer available) http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-vinegar-salt-weed-killer-49329.html
The writer, Patricia Diaz, notes that regular household vinegar is a 5% acetic acid concentration. While this works on some weeds, a greater concentration is needed for other or more mature weeds. By distilling, a 15% concentration can be obtained, and a 30% concentration can be obtained by freeze evaporation. These concentrated acetic acids, if they are derived from plant sources and not from chemicals, are acceptable for agricultural use by the organic community. (Please note the original article is no longer available online.)
Note that vinegar with acetic acid concentrations greater than 5% may be hazardous and should be handled with appropriate precautions.
You can learn more about the use of vinegar as a weed killer at this USDA site: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2002/020515.htm
Aside from pulling all the weeds out, Cheryl and I have found the best solution is to use organic material to build the soil. If you keep soil healthy, weeds do not seem to do as well. Most of the time you see weeds growing where more desirable plants have a tough time. Again, this is because there is some kind of deficiency. Calcium deficiency is a common cause. Organic products such as Turf Tea Quality Grow, Prosper Soil Conditioner and Smart Coral Calcium can be effective in building healthy, robust soil.
QUESTION: “I have a question regarding a column of yours that was published in the newspaper on July 19, 2006. In the article you discuss the control of the Japanese beetle with the use of "milk spore." Since then, I have asked several area nurserymen if they have this product. None of them had heard of it. Can you please give me more info regarding this?” – Carol Schick
ANSWER: Milk spore is safe around pets and children but kills grubs. It is considered a disease, but it only affects beetle larvae (grubs). Once built up, milk spore can remain dormant in the soil, only reactivating when new grubs appear. It is applied in powder form, using approximately 10 lbs per acre. Here is a useful link I found for you. http://www.ecolandscaping.org/05/pests-pest-management/controlling-grubs-milky-spore-disease-or-beneficial-nematodes/
You should be able to buy Milk Spore powder at your local True Value or Ace Hardware Stores. It's also available online. I hope you are successful in your battle against the grubs!
QUESTION: “I am looking for some info on organic weed killers. I have numerous recipes for organic weed killers with testimonials on how effective they are. They all call for high acidic vinegar or industrial vinegar. I have searched high and low and have not found where I can purchase this miracle of modern man! I have been in the gardening business for years and have had my own business for the past three years (organically based as much as my customers will allow) and find myself feeling grossly inadequate when it comes to this. If you could please let me in on your wonderful wealth of knowledge and pass on the golden key, it would mean the world to me.” – Laurie Orsini
ANSWER: There is quite a lot of research under way into the effectiveness of vinegar as a weed killer. I found a online article that you should definitely look at. You can read it at (Please note the original article is no longer available) http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-vinegar-salt-weed-killer-49329.html
The writer, Patricia Diaz, notes that regular household vinegar is a 5% acetic acid concentration. While this works on some weeds, a greater concentration is needed for other or more mature weeds. By distilling, a 15% concentration can be obtained, and a 30% concentration can be obtained by freeze evaporation. These concentrated acetic acids, if they are derived from plant sources and not from chemicals, are acceptable for agricultural use by the organic community. (Please note the original article is no longer available online.)
Note that vinegar with acetic acid concentrations greater than 5% may be hazardous and should be handled with appropriate precautions.
You can learn more about the use of vinegar as a weed killer at this USDA site: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2002/020515.htm
Aside from pulling all the weeds out, Cheryl and I have found the best solution is to use organic material to build the soil. If you keep soil healthy, weeds do not seem to do as well. Most of the time you see weeds growing where more desirable plants have a tough time. Again, this is because there is some kind of deficiency. Calcium deficiency is a common cause. Organic products such as Turf Tea Quality Grow, Prosper Soil Conditioner and Smart Coral Calcium can be effective in building healthy, robust soil.
QUESTION: “I have a question regarding a column of yours that was published in the newspaper on July 19, 2006. In the article you discuss the control of the Japanese beetle with the use of "milk spore." Since then, I have asked several area nurserymen if they have this product. None of them had heard of it. Can you please give me more info regarding this?” – Carol Schick
ANSWER: Milk spore is safe around pets and children but kills grubs. It is considered a disease, but it only affects beetle larvae (grubs). Once built up, milk spore can remain dormant in the soil, only reactivating when new grubs appear. It is applied in powder form, using approximately 10 lbs per acre. Here is a useful link I found for you. http://www.ecolandscaping.org/05/pests-pest-management/controlling-grubs-milky-spore-disease-or-beneficial-nematodes/
You should be able to buy Milk Spore powder at your local True Value or Ace Hardware Stores. It's also available online. I hope you are successful in your battle against the grubs!
Wednesday, February 06, 2008
Physically challenged people can still enjoy garden
Recently, I received an e-mailed letter from a lady who described herself as disabled. She wrote that she had always enjoyed tending her garden, but, due to her physical disability, she felt nervous about trying to work around her flowers and shrubs. She wondered if I had any ideas that would be useful to physically challenged people such as herself.
I shared the e-mail with my wife Cheryl who immediately recognized the importance of the subject. Cheryl went to work on some research, and what follows is largely based on the response that she sent to the lady and to others who are faced with similar challenges.
Here are some tips on how to make gardening easier for those with disabilities, whether they have arthritis, are in a wheelchair or are visually impaired. Maybe you or someone in your household has difficulty getting around in the garden, so let’s see what can be done to make it easier and more enjoyable.
Raised beds and planters
Gardening in raised beds and planters makes the plants much more accessible to reach. A raised bed about 2 to 3 feet wide should work for most people, but you can make it wider than that if you will be able to access it safely from both sides. An important consideration is the height of the bed and it should match the needs of the person gardening in it. For example, a person in a wheelchair would want the height anywhere from 18 to 24 inches tall, while someone with arthritis may want to garden standing and could use a height in the 3 to 4 foot range.
Containers
Instead of planting at ground level, use lots of pots or other containers such as window boxes at an appropriate height. To help reduce the weight, use Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom half of the containers and fill with soil. You can plant just about everything from seeds and perennials to small shrubs and small trees in containers. For ease in moving the pots, use wheeled caddies that are available at most hardware stores.
Hanging baskets
Gardeners who have difficulty reaching up or need to remain seated can still enjoy planting in hanging baskets. Simply locate the baskets at lower levels or place them on benches while you work on them at a convenient height.
Garden up!
Another way to avoid excessive stooping or kneeling is to use trellises and other types of plant supporters. Once climbing plants grab hold of the trellis, fence or pergola, they quickly climb to eye level and beyond, so they can be clipped and trimmed, or simply enjoyed, while standing or seated. A climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Petiolaris) is easy to grow, care free and very long lived. American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is another good choice with its yellow-orange fruit that attracts birds in the fall, or perhaps English Ivy.
Walkways and paths
Walkways should be a minimum of 3 feet wide. Ramps should be made of a non-slippery material and a handrail may be necessary. There are many possible surface materials for walkways. While packed soil is one of the cheapest, it will be muddy during wet weather. Sandstone pavers and brick are also good options but will be more costly. Remember, wood will work, but will be slippery when wet.
Sight and sound
For the visually impaired, choose plants that offer bright colors, variety of textures and lots of fragrance. A wide assortment of perennials and herbs works wonders for the senses. Group large areas of plants according to colors for more impact, as those with only partial visual problems will be able to locate them easier. Use sound effectively. Add into the garden chimes, wind mills, fountains, and birdhouses to create soothing sounds.
For further reading on how to remake a garden to be more accommodating for those with physical disabilities or limitations, check out these books at your local library, bookstore or online: “Accessible Gardening for People with Physical Disabilities: A Guide to Methods, Tools, and Plants” by Janeen R. Adil “Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques for Seniors & the Disabled” by Joann Woy
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
I shared the e-mail with my wife Cheryl who immediately recognized the importance of the subject. Cheryl went to work on some research, and what follows is largely based on the response that she sent to the lady and to others who are faced with similar challenges.
Here are some tips on how to make gardening easier for those with disabilities, whether they have arthritis, are in a wheelchair or are visually impaired. Maybe you or someone in your household has difficulty getting around in the garden, so let’s see what can be done to make it easier and more enjoyable.
Raised beds and planters
Gardening in raised beds and planters makes the plants much more accessible to reach. A raised bed about 2 to 3 feet wide should work for most people, but you can make it wider than that if you will be able to access it safely from both sides. An important consideration is the height of the bed and it should match the needs of the person gardening in it. For example, a person in a wheelchair would want the height anywhere from 18 to 24 inches tall, while someone with arthritis may want to garden standing and could use a height in the 3 to 4 foot range.
Containers
Instead of planting at ground level, use lots of pots or other containers such as window boxes at an appropriate height. To help reduce the weight, use Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom half of the containers and fill with soil. You can plant just about everything from seeds and perennials to small shrubs and small trees in containers. For ease in moving the pots, use wheeled caddies that are available at most hardware stores.
Hanging baskets
Gardeners who have difficulty reaching up or need to remain seated can still enjoy planting in hanging baskets. Simply locate the baskets at lower levels or place them on benches while you work on them at a convenient height.
Garden up!
Another way to avoid excessive stooping or kneeling is to use trellises and other types of plant supporters. Once climbing plants grab hold of the trellis, fence or pergola, they quickly climb to eye level and beyond, so they can be clipped and trimmed, or simply enjoyed, while standing or seated. A climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea Petiolaris) is easy to grow, care free and very long lived. American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is another good choice with its yellow-orange fruit that attracts birds in the fall, or perhaps English Ivy.
Walkways and paths
Walkways should be a minimum of 3 feet wide. Ramps should be made of a non-slippery material and a handrail may be necessary. There are many possible surface materials for walkways. While packed soil is one of the cheapest, it will be muddy during wet weather. Sandstone pavers and brick are also good options but will be more costly. Remember, wood will work, but will be slippery when wet.
Sight and sound
For the visually impaired, choose plants that offer bright colors, variety of textures and lots of fragrance. A wide assortment of perennials and herbs works wonders for the senses. Group large areas of plants according to colors for more impact, as those with only partial visual problems will be able to locate them easier. Use sound effectively. Add into the garden chimes, wind mills, fountains, and birdhouses to create soothing sounds.
For further reading on how to remake a garden to be more accommodating for those with physical disabilities or limitations, check out these books at your local library, bookstore or online: “Accessible Gardening for People with Physical Disabilities: A Guide to Methods, Tools, and Plants” by Janeen R. Adil “Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques for Seniors & the Disabled” by Joann Woy
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Non-flowering plant needs “spa therapy” to bloom
QUESTION: “My hydrangea plant is healthy but has only put out one flower in last four years. Do I need a second plant to make it flower?” – Darlene
ANSWER: I guess you are thinking that you might need another plant for cross pollination in order to get your hydrangea to flower. In this case, I don’t think you need a second plant. My suggestion is to wait until after it has bloomed (or should have bloomed) and then trim back the bush somewhat. Then, in the fall after leaf drop, mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts to one gallon of water and pour on the soil around the base of the plant and let it soak into the ground.
The following spring, you should repeat the process just as the leaves are starting to emerge. Regular readers know that Cheryl and I use this “plant spa treatment” to help stubborn plants bring forth more blooms. Keep in touch and let me know if it works for you.
In last week’s column, I discussed some plants that will thrive in shaded areas where nothing else seems to grow. If you missed that column, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens.” Here’s a question that my wife Cheryl answered regarding herb gardening in the shade.
QUESTION: Which herbs can I plant in fully shaded areas? I’ve read other sites that recommend parsley or chives for fully shaded areas. Do you agree? If not, which herb would you recommend planting in shaded areas, if any?” – Maria
ANSWER: I like to plant and play around with herbs, too. From experience, most herbs do like full sun, though some will also grow in a filtered shady area. My chives have always grown and done well in full sun. You need to be sure to not let the heads go to seed and drop or you will have chives popping up all over the place! Even though thyme generally requires sun, I have golden thyme under a wisteria covered arbor and sage has grown well there also.
Try the same herbs in sun and shade to see which ones will grow for your area. Herbs that are hard to control, such as mints, should be planted in containers or they will be growing everywhere.
Playing with plants is part of the fun and at the same time becomes a learning experience.
All of the questions in this column were originally addressed in a recent edition of my weekly e-newsletter. If you’d like a free subscription, simply send me an e-mail with your request.
QUESTION: “I have several Blue Spruces that are at least 20 to 30 feet tall. Every year they get a parasite that looks like soft brown cones that hang down from their small branches. If you know what these things are, could you advise me on how to rid the trees from these parasites? Thank you.” – Jose
ANSWER: What you have there are known as bag worms. As soon as you see them appearing you will have to pull all of them off carefully, put them in a paper sack and take them away from the area to burn.
At least twice each season you will have to spray the trees and the ground under and around them with an insecticide such as malathion in order to keep your spruces free of bag worms. A word of caution: be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after spraying and leave any boots or clothing outdoors that might have been sprayed. Malathion has a low human toxicity but if it enters an indoor environment, it can break down into malaoxon which can be quite poisonous to animals and humans.
You will eventually reduce the bag worm population, but I’m afraid they are here to stay.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: I guess you are thinking that you might need another plant for cross pollination in order to get your hydrangea to flower. In this case, I don’t think you need a second plant. My suggestion is to wait until after it has bloomed (or should have bloomed) and then trim back the bush somewhat. Then, in the fall after leaf drop, mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts to one gallon of water and pour on the soil around the base of the plant and let it soak into the ground.
The following spring, you should repeat the process just as the leaves are starting to emerge. Regular readers know that Cheryl and I use this “plant spa treatment” to help stubborn plants bring forth more blooms. Keep in touch and let me know if it works for you.
In last week’s column, I discussed some plants that will thrive in shaded areas where nothing else seems to grow. If you missed that column, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens.” Here’s a question that my wife Cheryl answered regarding herb gardening in the shade.
QUESTION: Which herbs can I plant in fully shaded areas? I’ve read other sites that recommend parsley or chives for fully shaded areas. Do you agree? If not, which herb would you recommend planting in shaded areas, if any?” – Maria
ANSWER: I like to plant and play around with herbs, too. From experience, most herbs do like full sun, though some will also grow in a filtered shady area. My chives have always grown and done well in full sun. You need to be sure to not let the heads go to seed and drop or you will have chives popping up all over the place! Even though thyme generally requires sun, I have golden thyme under a wisteria covered arbor and sage has grown well there also.
Try the same herbs in sun and shade to see which ones will grow for your area. Herbs that are hard to control, such as mints, should be planted in containers or they will be growing everywhere.
Playing with plants is part of the fun and at the same time becomes a learning experience.
All of the questions in this column were originally addressed in a recent edition of my weekly e-newsletter. If you’d like a free subscription, simply send me an e-mail with your request.
QUESTION: “I have several Blue Spruces that are at least 20 to 30 feet tall. Every year they get a parasite that looks like soft brown cones that hang down from their small branches. If you know what these things are, could you advise me on how to rid the trees from these parasites? Thank you.” – Jose
ANSWER: What you have there are known as bag worms. As soon as you see them appearing you will have to pull all of them off carefully, put them in a paper sack and take them away from the area to burn.
At least twice each season you will have to spray the trees and the ground under and around them with an insecticide such as malathion in order to keep your spruces free of bag worms. A word of caution: be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after spraying and leave any boots or clothing outdoors that might have been sprayed. Malathion has a low human toxicity but if it enters an indoor environment, it can break down into malaoxon which can be quite poisonous to animals and humans.
You will eventually reduce the bag worm population, but I’m afraid they are here to stay.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Shade-loving groundcovers perfect for sun deprived gardens
Finding plants that thrive in shady area and under trees is a problem but not impossible. If that’s a dilemma for you, I have some helpful ideas.
QUESTION: “I love reading your column each week! You have great advice on plants. I recently read your column that mentioned vinca minor and pachysandra terminalis for shady areas.
“We have a backyard that faces woods to the north and the yard portion is only about 30' wide between the deck and the woods. About half of the western side of this backyard is totally shaded due to trees and is bare dirt.
“We have three boys (as well as other neighbor boys) who run around a lot in the yard and we haven't been able to get any grass to grow successfully in that area. It grows in May and June and then once the tree leaves come in the grass dies due to lack of sunlight! We have tried all types of grass and none work.
“During the rainy season other backyards drain through our yard to the creek in the woods, so the area it gets pretty muddy but it does drain and there is no standing water.
“I am so tired of this ugly look that is so hard on bare feet as well! Can you recommend any low-growing or appropriate groundcover that would work in such a shady area?” – Lisa Knapp
ANSWER: Thanks for the compliments and for being a reader to the column.
As a reminder to you and other readers, I’ll mention a few suitable groundcovers, below. It is fairly easy to work with any of these shade-tolerant groundcovers but you will have to establish for at least one growing season before the area can suffer a lot of traffic.
As always, the best first step is to establish the area where you want to plant your groundcover. Regular readers know that I recommend using a garden hose that you place on the ground and move around and indicate the perimeter of the area you intend to plant. Step back and take a look. Not quite satisfied yet? Simply move the hose a little (or a lot) until you see the desired outline of the proposed area. This is the landscaper’s equivalent of the carpenter’s motto, “Measure twice, cut once.” Moving a hose now is easy; moving plants later isn’t.
Once you have determined the shape, fill in the area with top soil, compost or plantable mulch. Keep in mind that during the rainy season you have to have a way for the water to travel so do not block the natural flow. You might then want to put some type of edging around the perimeter to establish a boundary. Then you can plant your groundcover in early spring. You can also plant groundcover in the fall, but if you do, make sure you mulch in the roots for winter and then let it go until the following spring.
Here are some shade-loving groundcovers that are worth investigating:
Pachysandra Green Sheen
This is the most reliable cold-season groundcover for shaded areas and is ideal for planting under the canopies of established trees where little else grows. It’s also good for planting by on the north side of wall or on north-facing slopes. Green Sheen has extremely glossy foliage that sometimes looks too good to be real!
Pachysandra, variegated Japanese
An alternative (or addition) to the Green Sheen, the variegated Japanese thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens. It is low-growing and compact, retaining its beauty with white tinged leaves even in adverse conditions.
Dicentra Candy Hearts
This is a relatively new Bleeding Heart variety that produces masses of pendulous bright pink candy-like flowers. I would recommend that Candy Hearts be planted where they’ll get some partial sun for part of the day but they are shade-tolerant.
Ajuga Reptans “Burgundy Glow”
A creeping, mat-forming evergreen perennial that does well in shady area. It spreads rapidly to a width of 24 to 36 inches and a height of only six inches. The cream and maroon variegated leaves make a pleasant contrast in any garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I love reading your column each week! You have great advice on plants. I recently read your column that mentioned vinca minor and pachysandra terminalis for shady areas.
“We have a backyard that faces woods to the north and the yard portion is only about 30' wide between the deck and the woods. About half of the western side of this backyard is totally shaded due to trees and is bare dirt.
“We have three boys (as well as other neighbor boys) who run around a lot in the yard and we haven't been able to get any grass to grow successfully in that area. It grows in May and June and then once the tree leaves come in the grass dies due to lack of sunlight! We have tried all types of grass and none work.
“During the rainy season other backyards drain through our yard to the creek in the woods, so the area it gets pretty muddy but it does drain and there is no standing water.
“I am so tired of this ugly look that is so hard on bare feet as well! Can you recommend any low-growing or appropriate groundcover that would work in such a shady area?” – Lisa Knapp
ANSWER: Thanks for the compliments and for being a reader to the column.
As a reminder to you and other readers, I’ll mention a few suitable groundcovers, below. It is fairly easy to work with any of these shade-tolerant groundcovers but you will have to establish for at least one growing season before the area can suffer a lot of traffic.
As always, the best first step is to establish the area where you want to plant your groundcover. Regular readers know that I recommend using a garden hose that you place on the ground and move around and indicate the perimeter of the area you intend to plant. Step back and take a look. Not quite satisfied yet? Simply move the hose a little (or a lot) until you see the desired outline of the proposed area. This is the landscaper’s equivalent of the carpenter’s motto, “Measure twice, cut once.” Moving a hose now is easy; moving plants later isn’t.
Once you have determined the shape, fill in the area with top soil, compost or plantable mulch. Keep in mind that during the rainy season you have to have a way for the water to travel so do not block the natural flow. You might then want to put some type of edging around the perimeter to establish a boundary. Then you can plant your groundcover in early spring. You can also plant groundcover in the fall, but if you do, make sure you mulch in the roots for winter and then let it go until the following spring.
Here are some shade-loving groundcovers that are worth investigating:
Pachysandra Green Sheen
This is the most reliable cold-season groundcover for shaded areas and is ideal for planting under the canopies of established trees where little else grows. It’s also good for planting by on the north side of wall or on north-facing slopes. Green Sheen has extremely glossy foliage that sometimes looks too good to be real!
Pachysandra, variegated Japanese
An alternative (or addition) to the Green Sheen, the variegated Japanese thrives even in the dense shade of evergreens. It is low-growing and compact, retaining its beauty with white tinged leaves even in adverse conditions.
Dicentra Candy Hearts
This is a relatively new Bleeding Heart variety that produces masses of pendulous bright pink candy-like flowers. I would recommend that Candy Hearts be planted where they’ll get some partial sun for part of the day but they are shade-tolerant.
Ajuga Reptans “Burgundy Glow”
A creeping, mat-forming evergreen perennial that does well in shady area. It spreads rapidly to a width of 24 to 36 inches and a height of only six inches. The cream and maroon variegated leaves make a pleasant contrast in any garden.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Friday, January 11, 2008
Stately junipers add garden drama as they point skyward
Sometimes, all your landscape needs to give it a whole new look is a little drama. These fast-growing junipers could be just the ticket.
Juniper Spartan (Juniperus chinensis Spartan)
If you read much about gardens, you often see photographs of so-called Italian cypress in magazines and books. There’s nothing wrong with them at all. But after a while it gets a bit ho-hum seeing the same old, same old.
The Juniper Spartan makes a very acceptable alternative and, by the way, is the source of the lovely spiraled topiary columns that are popular in Mediterranean-style gardens. They also work well in large, heavy duty concrete or ceramic containers as accents in a formal garden.
The Spartans are handsome, fast-growing junipers with a densely branched columnar form that makes them useful as a screen or windbreak. They prefer full sun and rapidly reach a mature height of between ten and twenty feet.
Juniper Blue Point (Juniperus chinensis Blue Point)
Plant this juniper close to a lush, green lawn and the effect is quite dramatic because the emerald of the grass accentuates the juniper’s blue coloring. Like the Spartan, the Blue Point has exceptionally dense foliage that would be ideal for screening.
I often recommend the Blue Point to line a stately driveway or frame an entry. If you have a square courtyard, you get a very pleasant effect by planting one Blue Point at each corner. However, I also like to see them in matched pairs or groups to form a colorful screen or garden accent.
As with most plants, it makes sense to understand its natural habitat and try to match that as closely as possible. In the case of the Blue Point, its natural habitat is dry and windy with exposure to full sun. Plant the Blue Point where it will receive virtually no shade all day and this will allow the foliage to dry quickly in the morning, preventing disease from thinning the canopy.
Juniper Skyrocket (Juniperus scopulorum Skyrocket)
Regular readers might remember a question that appeared in this column from a reader who needed ideas for a very narrow strip of land separating her house from her neighbor’s. When a tall, narrow tree is called for, make sure Skyrocket is on your list!
This thin, columnar juniper is ideal for awkward, narrow spaces such as side yards. The evergreen, silvery-blue foliage on the Skyrocket is exceptionally consistent, showing very little change from season to season. It’s a good plant for both hot and cold regions but, like the other junipers, it does require exposure to fairly full sun for best results.
Skyrocket makes a very imposing statement when planted against a large fence or building or in formal plantings. With only a two or three foot spread, the Skyrocket can soar to around twenty feet quite rapidly and is tolerant of dry/arid soil.
If your tastes run to something a little wider and wilder, let’s move away from the junipers and look at…
Euonymus Manhattan
This one is definitely more than just another broadleaf evergreen: this is one of the very few Euonymus that bear colored fruit. If you’re a fan of berried plants such as Viburnum Brandywine or Cardinal Candy, or perhaps Brilliant Red Chokeberry, the Manhattan would be the perfect complement. White flowers appear, framed by the dark green leaves and followed by the pinkish fruit.
Manhattan can tolerate cold to almost 0 degrees F as well as high temperatures, wind, poor soil and even salt spray. I think this plant looks best when planted in a semi-wild setting where you can allow it to grow without shearing. Even left to its own devices, this shrub has a neat, formal appearance, topping out at six to ten feet at maturity.
Put these evergreens on your “look see” list if year-round drama is something you’d enjoy.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Juniper Spartan (Juniperus chinensis Spartan)
If you read much about gardens, you often see photographs of so-called Italian cypress in magazines and books. There’s nothing wrong with them at all. But after a while it gets a bit ho-hum seeing the same old, same old.
The Juniper Spartan makes a very acceptable alternative and, by the way, is the source of the lovely spiraled topiary columns that are popular in Mediterranean-style gardens. They also work well in large, heavy duty concrete or ceramic containers as accents in a formal garden.
The Spartans are handsome, fast-growing junipers with a densely branched columnar form that makes them useful as a screen or windbreak. They prefer full sun and rapidly reach a mature height of between ten and twenty feet.
Juniper Blue Point (Juniperus chinensis Blue Point)
Plant this juniper close to a lush, green lawn and the effect is quite dramatic because the emerald of the grass accentuates the juniper’s blue coloring. Like the Spartan, the Blue Point has exceptionally dense foliage that would be ideal for screening.
I often recommend the Blue Point to line a stately driveway or frame an entry. If you have a square courtyard, you get a very pleasant effect by planting one Blue Point at each corner. However, I also like to see them in matched pairs or groups to form a colorful screen or garden accent.
As with most plants, it makes sense to understand its natural habitat and try to match that as closely as possible. In the case of the Blue Point, its natural habitat is dry and windy with exposure to full sun. Plant the Blue Point where it will receive virtually no shade all day and this will allow the foliage to dry quickly in the morning, preventing disease from thinning the canopy.
Juniper Skyrocket (Juniperus scopulorum Skyrocket)
Regular readers might remember a question that appeared in this column from a reader who needed ideas for a very narrow strip of land separating her house from her neighbor’s. When a tall, narrow tree is called for, make sure Skyrocket is on your list!
This thin, columnar juniper is ideal for awkward, narrow spaces such as side yards. The evergreen, silvery-blue foliage on the Skyrocket is exceptionally consistent, showing very little change from season to season. It’s a good plant for both hot and cold regions but, like the other junipers, it does require exposure to fairly full sun for best results.
Skyrocket makes a very imposing statement when planted against a large fence or building or in formal plantings. With only a two or three foot spread, the Skyrocket can soar to around twenty feet quite rapidly and is tolerant of dry/arid soil.
If your tastes run to something a little wider and wilder, let’s move away from the junipers and look at…
Euonymus Manhattan
This one is definitely more than just another broadleaf evergreen: this is one of the very few Euonymus that bear colored fruit. If you’re a fan of berried plants such as Viburnum Brandywine or Cardinal Candy, or perhaps Brilliant Red Chokeberry, the Manhattan would be the perfect complement. White flowers appear, framed by the dark green leaves and followed by the pinkish fruit.
Manhattan can tolerate cold to almost 0 degrees F as well as high temperatures, wind, poor soil and even salt spray. I think this plant looks best when planted in a semi-wild setting where you can allow it to grow without shearing. Even left to its own devices, this shrub has a neat, formal appearance, topping out at six to ten feet at maturity.
Put these evergreens on your “look see” list if year-round drama is something you’d enjoy.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Wednesday, January 09, 2008
Reader’s lawn headaches call for groundcover cure
QUESTION: “I built a new home about 2.5 years ago and I am sick of my grass! It has been nothing but a headache. I have been through several lawn maintenance companies and I have had many arguments with them. “At this point I think my best remedy would be to get rid of all the grass and just plant some kind of ground cover. Some of the reasons for my woes are that (1) I built on a ravine, (2) my lot is not even; there are a variety of slopes, and (3) the sun/shade character is totally different for various areas of the front and back yards. Obviously, different conditions yield different results. “My concern is whether or not ground cover would invite infestation by creepy crawly things. I do have a lot of visitation by all kinds of insects and animals since I live on a ravine. Would the ground cover be more inviting to them than the grass? Part of my maintenance problem has been some of the creatures tearing up parts of the grass. After much consultation with a variety of people, I finally concluded that, simply, they were here before I was and they will win! “Finally, I am not an outdoor person. If the ground cover will lead to high maintenance then I don't want it. Secondly, I have no idea what kind to get, so I need some advice. Third, for a yard that is 3,000 sq. ft. (front & back) will the cost be prohibitive or is the transition a reasonable one?” – Mark Ealy
ANSWER: The creepy crawly things may not go away but you may at least have more beneficial ones with ground covers. One thing you may want to begin with is to take an old garden hose and use it as an outline to layout some areas that you would like to have ground cover in. If the area is shaded part of the time and sunny part of the time, you can really do a lot of different effects. You don’t have to have grass but some at least in the beginning as pathways or just something to break up the ground cover will be aesthetically more pleasing to the eye.
Shaded pathways could be great for hostas and shade loving perennials. Sunny areas would be ideal for small flowing shrubs and ornamental grasses. By doing it this way, you will eliminate a lot of future maintenance. I would begin by dividing the area into 3 or 4 sections and work on one at a time. This gives you a chance to live in the areas you plan and continually come up with more ideas to give you the garden you want. A garden is not something you plant just one big time and then stand back and admire. It is a place to which you constantly add new things for your enjoyment. It does not become a maintenance thing but a place to reflect on the day’s experiences and enjoy your own touch of nature.
If you decide to go this route, email back at steve@landsteward.org with more specific details about the first area you plan to do and I will help where I can. Other readers seeking advice on specific groundcover choices are welcome to do the same.
QUESTION: “In a recent column, you said it is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week rather than frequent light watering, say, 10 minutes every 6 hours. Why is this?” – Patrick M. Galla
ANSWER: If you are watering lightly the roots of the grass never get a deep watering and thus never develop a deep root system. Once your grass develops a deep root system it will not only grow lush and healthy, it will choke out a lot of the weeds. With a deep root system, when the watering stops even through draughts, your grass will be able to access water from a greater depth.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: The creepy crawly things may not go away but you may at least have more beneficial ones with ground covers. One thing you may want to begin with is to take an old garden hose and use it as an outline to layout some areas that you would like to have ground cover in. If the area is shaded part of the time and sunny part of the time, you can really do a lot of different effects. You don’t have to have grass but some at least in the beginning as pathways or just something to break up the ground cover will be aesthetically more pleasing to the eye.
Shaded pathways could be great for hostas and shade loving perennials. Sunny areas would be ideal for small flowing shrubs and ornamental grasses. By doing it this way, you will eliminate a lot of future maintenance. I would begin by dividing the area into 3 or 4 sections and work on one at a time. This gives you a chance to live in the areas you plan and continually come up with more ideas to give you the garden you want. A garden is not something you plant just one big time and then stand back and admire. It is a place to which you constantly add new things for your enjoyment. It does not become a maintenance thing but a place to reflect on the day’s experiences and enjoy your own touch of nature.
If you decide to go this route, email back at steve@landsteward.org with more specific details about the first area you plan to do and I will help where I can. Other readers seeking advice on specific groundcover choices are welcome to do the same.
QUESTION: “In a recent column, you said it is better to give the lawn a good soaking (a 6 inch depth) once a week rather than frequent light watering, say, 10 minutes every 6 hours. Why is this?” – Patrick M. Galla
ANSWER: If you are watering lightly the roots of the grass never get a deep watering and thus never develop a deep root system. Once your grass develops a deep root system it will not only grow lush and healthy, it will choke out a lot of the weeds. With a deep root system, when the watering stops even through draughts, your grass will be able to access water from a greater depth.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.organd for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, January 03, 2008
These small plants create big bang for the buck
The New Year is here and garden lovers are thumbing through catalogues and poring over online Web sites planning the look of their landscapes for spring and summer.
As you sift through your horticultural options, bear in mind that a landscape doesn’t have to soar into the stratosphere to be spectacular. Today, I’ll review some plants that are truly beautiful but are definitely “close to ground level.” And as a bonus, most are fairly simple to care for, too.
Tiearella Pirate’s Patch
With a buccaneering name like that, you know it has to be quite special. If your landscape needs an edging plant in an area that is shaded or semi-shaded, this could be the one for you. It is a clumping perennial that grows to a width of around twelve inches with a foliage height of just five inches. The flower spikes grow to about ten inches tall.
Tiearella Pirate’s Patch is sought after because of its early bloom season, fragrance, repeat flowering and unusual leaf shapes. The emerald foliage develops chocolate markings in the summer and turns reddish-brown in the fall. Pirates create a wonderful display with white spires of fragrant, delicate flowers in the spring. Its low, slow-creeping stems make it an ideal groundcover, particularly in soil that is humus-rich and moisture-retentive and somewhat shaded.
The foliage on mature Pirates can become quite large for such a low-growing plant, and up to 250 flower spikes per plant have been reported on three year old plants.
Hellebore Pink Lady
Actually a trio of Hellebore “ladies” but I’ll start with Miss Pink. She’s extremely easy to grow, topping out between 12 and 15 inches tall and about two feet in width. Delightful pink blooms begin to appear in late winter and persist as late as May. When not in bloom, the lush, shiny evergreen foliage remains year-round as a low-growing groundcover.
All of the ladies in the Hellebore family are virtually maintenance free once established and are deer-resistant, if that’s a concern in your area. They like loamy, moist soil with lime and leaf mold. They can provide a delightful mat of groundcover to enhance deciduous shrubs, conifers and broadleaf evergreens.
Don’t forget her “sisters.” Hellebore Red Lady provides red-maroon blooms in late winter to early spring, and Hellebore Blue Lady sports deep purple-blue flowers that are truly breathtaking. All the petite Hellebore ladies are easy to grow and bring forth flowers when most other plants are dormant.
Liriope Big Blue
NEW! Liriope Big Blue An attractive, tufted evergreen perennial groundcover with arching, grass like foliage. Abundant blue flower spikes rise above the foliage in summer followed by clusters of black berries.
Despite its ‘big’ name, this tufted, evergreen perennial has arching, grass-like foliage growing no more than 15 inches tall and wide. In summer, its blue flower spikes rise above the foliage, followed by clusters of black berries in the fall.
Big Blue could be a good alternative (or addition) to Pirate’s Patch as both do well in partially shaded areas. However, Big Blue will also grow well in full or partial sun. Ideal as an edging or ‘regular’ groundcover, members of the Liriope family are often planted on hard-to-mow slopes and banks.
Liriope are tough little guys, growing in sandy or clay soil, enduring heat, drought and even salt spray. However, they do not like “wet feet” so they are best planted in moist but well-drained soil.
Liriope Variegated
The long, grass-like foliage has a bright green “stripe” running the length of each leaf framed each side with edges of creamy pale yellow. Purple flower spikes appear in summer followed by blue-black berry-like fruit in the fall.
Creeping White Phlox
Also known as Phlox subulata, this is another good option for planting on slopes and banks where you’d prefer to avoid mowing. Growing 4 to 6 inches high and around 18 inches wide, it is covered with blossoms in May and June.
In addition to groundcover, Creeping Phlox looks good in rock gardens, atop retaining walls and in hanging planters. Look for other Creeping Phlox varieties in red, emerald blue, apple blossom and candy stripe.
Good things really can come in small packages, so don’t overlook “little guys” like these as you plan your spring planting.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
As you sift through your horticultural options, bear in mind that a landscape doesn’t have to soar into the stratosphere to be spectacular. Today, I’ll review some plants that are truly beautiful but are definitely “close to ground level.” And as a bonus, most are fairly simple to care for, too.
Tiearella Pirate’s Patch
With a buccaneering name like that, you know it has to be quite special. If your landscape needs an edging plant in an area that is shaded or semi-shaded, this could be the one for you. It is a clumping perennial that grows to a width of around twelve inches with a foliage height of just five inches. The flower spikes grow to about ten inches tall.
Tiearella Pirate’s Patch is sought after because of its early bloom season, fragrance, repeat flowering and unusual leaf shapes. The emerald foliage develops chocolate markings in the summer and turns reddish-brown in the fall. Pirates create a wonderful display with white spires of fragrant, delicate flowers in the spring. Its low, slow-creeping stems make it an ideal groundcover, particularly in soil that is humus-rich and moisture-retentive and somewhat shaded.
The foliage on mature Pirates can become quite large for such a low-growing plant, and up to 250 flower spikes per plant have been reported on three year old plants.
Hellebore Pink Lady
Actually a trio of Hellebore “ladies” but I’ll start with Miss Pink. She’s extremely easy to grow, topping out between 12 and 15 inches tall and about two feet in width. Delightful pink blooms begin to appear in late winter and persist as late as May. When not in bloom, the lush, shiny evergreen foliage remains year-round as a low-growing groundcover.
All of the ladies in the Hellebore family are virtually maintenance free once established and are deer-resistant, if that’s a concern in your area. They like loamy, moist soil with lime and leaf mold. They can provide a delightful mat of groundcover to enhance deciduous shrubs, conifers and broadleaf evergreens.
Don’t forget her “sisters.” Hellebore Red Lady provides red-maroon blooms in late winter to early spring, and Hellebore Blue Lady sports deep purple-blue flowers that are truly breathtaking. All the petite Hellebore ladies are easy to grow and bring forth flowers when most other plants are dormant.
Liriope Big Blue
NEW! Liriope Big Blue An attractive, tufted evergreen perennial groundcover with arching, grass like foliage. Abundant blue flower spikes rise above the foliage in summer followed by clusters of black berries.
Despite its ‘big’ name, this tufted, evergreen perennial has arching, grass-like foliage growing no more than 15 inches tall and wide. In summer, its blue flower spikes rise above the foliage, followed by clusters of black berries in the fall.
Big Blue could be a good alternative (or addition) to Pirate’s Patch as both do well in partially shaded areas. However, Big Blue will also grow well in full or partial sun. Ideal as an edging or ‘regular’ groundcover, members of the Liriope family are often planted on hard-to-mow slopes and banks.
Liriope are tough little guys, growing in sandy or clay soil, enduring heat, drought and even salt spray. However, they do not like “wet feet” so they are best planted in moist but well-drained soil.
Liriope Variegated
The long, grass-like foliage has a bright green “stripe” running the length of each leaf framed each side with edges of creamy pale yellow. Purple flower spikes appear in summer followed by blue-black berry-like fruit in the fall.
Creeping White Phlox
Also known as Phlox subulata, this is another good option for planting on slopes and banks where you’d prefer to avoid mowing. Growing 4 to 6 inches high and around 18 inches wide, it is covered with blossoms in May and June.
In addition to groundcover, Creeping Phlox looks good in rock gardens, atop retaining walls and in hanging planters. Look for other Creeping Phlox varieties in red, emerald blue, apple blossom and candy stripe.
Good things really can come in small packages, so don’t overlook “little guys” like these as you plan your spring planting.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Better drainage will fix mold and mildew in mulch
QUESTION: “I have spent waaaay too much money applying redwood bark and cocoa hulls to my front and backyard landscape and flower beds only to find that the cool fall weather has caused the bark to mold and mildew, plus the neighborhood cats are using my landscape as their litter box. Is there anyway I can save my investment? Please help!” – Sandy Davis
ANSWER: Cool, damp weather can cause mulch to mold and mildew. I suggest you investigate ways to improve drainage to divert water (whether it’s from rainfall or supplemental watering) so it will move away from the mulched areas as quickly as possible. Turning the top part of the mulch from time to time will help to prevent more moldy areas.
Now, onto the feline problem. There are a few things you can try and all are humane and safe. The first one is to lay down chicken wire on top of the mulched areas. Cats, generally, will not walk or stand on the horizontal wire fencing and of course can't dig so they are likely to move to another yard.
Two other things that will help but must be used consistently to be effective are putting cayenne pepper flakes on the mulch or spraying it with the urine of a known predator of the cat, such as fox or coyote. If you don’t happen to have a fox or coyote handy, you can find bottled urine at hunting stores or army surplus stores. I hope you are able to reverse the problem with your mulch.
QUESTION: “What plants and shrubs are available for landscaping near a house where the soil has a clay loam that holds moisture so much so that many plants roots rot?” -- Carl
ANSWER: “Most plants do not like wet feet. The first thing I would recommend is to loosen the soil. You can use a product such as Prosper Soil Conditioner. It increases friability and resists crusting, allowing water and air to permeate soil. Use this product and then begin to add some soil amendments to your soil to build up the organic matter. Once you have good healthy soil you will be able to grow many types of plants not just the ones that might or might not survive in adverse conditions.
Like cures for hiccups, it seems almost everyone has a “lawn recipe” that they swear by! Recently, I included a recipe from a reader serving with the armed forces overseas. That brought a lot of reader response, and here is a slightly different cocktail from another reader:
COMMENT: “I searched high and low, and found this lawn recipe. It works miracles. In a 32-oz. sprayer, mix one can non-light beer, one 12-oz. can soda (non-diet), 4 oz. Palmolive dish liquid, 4 oz. mouthwash (it has something to do with killing grubs, etc) and 4 oz. ammonia (think nitrogen, and hydrogen).
“I believe that this is the ultra-professional recipe. I always use the Palmolive, as that and the beer seem to be the only constant of all the recipes that I have found. My neighbor fertilized with Scott's Organic within 2 days of me using my wonderful-smelling lawn recipe, and MY lawn sprung out of it's brown coma in 3-4 days, filling in patches previously brown from the neighbors cats. In a week, there were NO brown spots.
“Ammonia can't be beat, especially delivered through the 32-oz. hose sprayer, because of the jolt of nitrogen and hydrogen it gets, especially when applied with the beer and soda for the carbonation. It gets through even heavily thatched lawns. I'm glad to spread the word. Maybe winter will be a little greener for all of us! I'll let you know how my grass holds up in comparison with the neighbors.” – Susan Glenn
Thank you, Susan. I’m sure many of our “turf-challenged” readers will want to try your recipe, or submit recipes of their own. If you want to read the column that started it all, you can find it archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled, “Grass will go green with this lawn cocktail.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
ANSWER: Cool, damp weather can cause mulch to mold and mildew. I suggest you investigate ways to improve drainage to divert water (whether it’s from rainfall or supplemental watering) so it will move away from the mulched areas as quickly as possible. Turning the top part of the mulch from time to time will help to prevent more moldy areas.
Now, onto the feline problem. There are a few things you can try and all are humane and safe. The first one is to lay down chicken wire on top of the mulched areas. Cats, generally, will not walk or stand on the horizontal wire fencing and of course can't dig so they are likely to move to another yard.
Two other things that will help but must be used consistently to be effective are putting cayenne pepper flakes on the mulch or spraying it with the urine of a known predator of the cat, such as fox or coyote. If you don’t happen to have a fox or coyote handy, you can find bottled urine at hunting stores or army surplus stores. I hope you are able to reverse the problem with your mulch.
QUESTION: “What plants and shrubs are available for landscaping near a house where the soil has a clay loam that holds moisture so much so that many plants roots rot?” -- Carl
ANSWER: “Most plants do not like wet feet. The first thing I would recommend is to loosen the soil. You can use a product such as Prosper Soil Conditioner. It increases friability and resists crusting, allowing water and air to permeate soil. Use this product and then begin to add some soil amendments to your soil to build up the organic matter. Once you have good healthy soil you will be able to grow many types of plants not just the ones that might or might not survive in adverse conditions.
Like cures for hiccups, it seems almost everyone has a “lawn recipe” that they swear by! Recently, I included a recipe from a reader serving with the armed forces overseas. That brought a lot of reader response, and here is a slightly different cocktail from another reader:
COMMENT: “I searched high and low, and found this lawn recipe. It works miracles. In a 32-oz. sprayer, mix one can non-light beer, one 12-oz. can soda (non-diet), 4 oz. Palmolive dish liquid, 4 oz. mouthwash (it has something to do with killing grubs, etc) and 4 oz. ammonia (think nitrogen, and hydrogen).
“I believe that this is the ultra-professional recipe. I always use the Palmolive, as that and the beer seem to be the only constant of all the recipes that I have found. My neighbor fertilized with Scott's Organic within 2 days of me using my wonderful-smelling lawn recipe, and MY lawn sprung out of it's brown coma in 3-4 days, filling in patches previously brown from the neighbors cats. In a week, there were NO brown spots.
“Ammonia can't be beat, especially delivered through the 32-oz. hose sprayer, because of the jolt of nitrogen and hydrogen it gets, especially when applied with the beer and soda for the carbonation. It gets through even heavily thatched lawns. I'm glad to spread the word. Maybe winter will be a little greener for all of us! I'll let you know how my grass holds up in comparison with the neighbors.” – Susan Glenn
Thank you, Susan. I’m sure many of our “turf-challenged” readers will want to try your recipe, or submit recipes of their own. If you want to read the column that started it all, you can find it archived at my Web site www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled, “Grass will go green with this lawn cocktail.”
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
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