Black spots on holly bush: fungus or aphids?

For many gardeners, their plants are like children that they rear, nurture and care for with lots of TLC. When a plant shows signs of illness or trauma, the proud “parent” wants to put things right. But these “kids” can’t tell you where they hurt!

That was the problem faced by two readers who wrote to me when they noticed problems with their holly bushes.

QUESTION: “I was wondering if you know why my mature holly bushes have dark black fungus that looks like mud on the leaves? I have landscaping with over 50 hollies and only the four that are against the house facing west have problems with the leaves.

”Also, why do I have moths in the lawn? I noticed them today while cutting the grass. Is there any way to get rid of them? I have fertilized the lawn twice this season already, the last having insect control in it.” – Laren Imperatore

ANSWER: I believe the black spots could be a result of aphids. Once you control the aphids the black should eventually wash off. Using a systemic insecticide for aphids, spray both tops and bottoms of the leaves as directed on the label. Concerning your lawn moth problem, here is a link to the University of Tennessee, Knoxville on lawn insects. It is a big document but on page 9 you will find thee information you need on sod webworms.
https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1158.pdf

QUESTION: “Last year, in the spring, I planted a holly bush in my front yard which gets
lots of sun. By about September/October last year, the leaves had started to turn brown and fell off. I just bought another one and have planted it in the same place. Do you have any advice on how I can make sure this one survives?” -- K. Roy

ANSWER: Holly bushes like full sun with well drained, highly organic acid soil. Aside of that, they generally will grow fine.

When you went to purchase your new holly, it would have been a good idea for you to have taken pictures of the one that died to let the sales person work with you to find out why it died. This would have been beneficial in knowing before planting another in
the same place so you could be careful to check for those signs.

Continued plant care is important. You should follow the same path that the garden center was using in caring for the new holly. When you purchased the plant, they should have given you care information to continue with after planting. If you didn't receive any info, you should contact them on this matter.


QUESTION: “I have a hedge of 12 emerald greens on the south side of our house. They have been in the ground for about six years and have grown nicely. Our winter was colder than normal by a few degrees with a bit of snow several times and a late spring. The shrubs have been beautiful and green all winter but now all are showing some brown on one side. There is new growth on top.

“Is this a disease or anything to remedy or be concerned about? We live on Camano Island, about 90 miles north of Seattle but with better weather than Seattle due to the shelter of the Olympics to the west. We are on the northern end of a "convergence" zone which brings weather in around to mountains to Everett, WA.”

ANSWER: From what you tell me, it sounds like freeze damage. It doesn’t always show up in late winter. Sometimes it takes warmer temperatures for the plant to realize it is wounded. If the browning continues to envelope the plants, you may need to look further, for other suspects such as spider mites or too much dampness in the soil. With the plants producing new growth, it does sound like they are trying to work their problem out.
Good luck with them.

Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of garden plants including shade trees, rose shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, and more.

Bog garden could be solution to waterlogged yard

QUESTION: “We live in a small neighborhood of stone houses built in the late 1920's. Moving into a stone house was a dream come true. However, we quickly found out that the water table in the area is quite high, and the soil is mostly clay.

”Fortunately, the house already had a sump pump system that drains out into the front lawn. Unfortunately, it runs every 10 to 15 minutes and because the soil in this area is clay, it was creating an un-mowable bog in the front yard. We have added to the drainage hose so that it now goes all the way down to the storm water ditch that runs across the front of the property. Now all that water sits across the front of the lawn next to the street. It still doesn't drain back into the ground, and is starting to creep into the neighbor's property (making him not so happy with us.)

”I've looked at installing a rain garden or bog garden along the side of the ditch, but I'm not sure it will look nice enough for the neighborhood since this would be along the front of the house. We've also considered pulling the water to the other side of the basement, collecting it in a rain barrel, and creating a water garden in the back yard. The engineering of that would be tricky and I'm not sure the water wouldn't just overflow and come back into the basement (causing more problems). Also, I am unclear as to whether either of these options would actually move the water far enough under ground to keep it from just coming back up in the sump pump.

”Do you have any suggestions or creative ideas on how to turn our extra 75gal/hour of water into an attractive part of this home?” -- Jessica

ANSWER: That is quite a problem. From the high water table (and maybe also from wet weather springs) it sounds as though your lawn is completely saturated. Because you do live in a suburb area and are most likely under building and hardscape code limitations, I would recommend talking with someone in your local building codes office. They should be able to discuss possibilities with you within the neighborhood restrictions.

The easiest solution would be for the city to allow you to pump the water up to the street level to run into the storm drains. But, some cities have restrictions against that. This is something that does need to be handled so that it doesn't create damage to the structure of your home (or create interior mold problems) and put further strain on the relationship with surrounding neighbors. Here is a link to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with an article on creating a bog garden. http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/handbooks/watergarden/8.html

QUESTION: “I have a question about what kind of worm this is and how to get rid of it. It is green worm that lives in trees and eats the leaves. It produces rat-like feces on the ground below where it eats and it sticks to the tree. We have tried to get rid of it and spray the tree but they still keep coming back. Can you please tell me what this is and how to get rid of it? Thanks!” – John M. Engrisch

ANSWER: From what you tell me, I am not sure what the worms are or the type of tree they are feasting on. I think they might be pearslugs, sometimes known as cherry slugs (Caliroa cerasi). According to the Integrated Pest Management Program at the University of California, almost immediately after hatching, a pearslug exudes a slimy green coating that covers its entire body and gives the appearance of a slug, although in reality it is a sawfly wasp.

The UC site suggests that a pesticide called Spinosad could be effective. You can read more about pearslugs and other garden pests at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/PESTS/pearslug.html
As it is a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

I suggest that you make a point to spray the soil underneath the tree that is encircled by the drip line. I would do this every time you spray in order to break the cycle.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to "mailto:steve@landsteward.org">steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bird lovers: these plants make your garden irresistible

Imagine your garden without birds and butterflies. What a quiet, still and lifeless place it would seem! If you, like most gardeners, cherish the sights and sounds that birds bring to your landscape, there are simple ways to make your landscape irresistible to flying wildlife.

Remember the movie “Field of Dreams”? To paraphrase the famous line, “Build it and plant it and they will come.” Today I have a quick rundown of tips and plant suggestions to help you do just that.

To create a garden that’s a haven for songbirds, you simply need to supply them with three basic requirements for survival: food, shelter and water.

Bird Feeder(s)

Feeders range from almost free to madly expensive. If you decide to put out a bird feeder, look for one that is difficult for squirrels to access, and resolve to keep the feeder stocked through the winter as many birds will come to rely on your specific feeder as a major food source.

Bird House(s)

Birds that like to nest in hollow trees are finding fewer and fewer potential homes. Add a couple of bird houses and you are helping to resolve the problem. Buy them ready made at home and garden stores or make it a family project with some simple tools and free plans available at http://www.freebirdhouseplans.net

Water
A birdbath, or better still, a water feature will provide birds with another reason to visit. In summer, you’ll need to be sure the water is fresh and not merely a mosquito farm, and it winter check to see it isn’t frozen.

But the best thing you can do is plant an environment that provides food and shelter while adding beauty to your landscape. Some examples:

American Bittersweet (Calastrus scandens)

This is a fast-growing climber producing beautiful clusters of yellow-orange fruit in the fall that birds seem to love. It’s a native plant, usually sold bare root, and adapts to almost any kind of soil. It also looks spectacular in flower arrangements around Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Carolina Alspice (Calycanthus floridus)

Dense, fast-growing shrub with lustrous, dark green foliage that turns yellow in the fall. The dense foliage provides welcome cover for birds. The fragrant reddish-brown flowers give way to urn-shaped seed capsules that mature in fall and persist through winter.

Black Lace Sambucus

Aptly named, this elderberry variety is often described as “stunning” with its finely-cut purple-black foliage, similar to that of a Japanese maple. It can be a better choice than other acer varieties due to its adaptability and durability. In the spring, creamy pink flowers contrast with the blackish foliage, but the birds will enjoy the black-red berries that emerge in fall. Leave the berries for the birds or harvest for elderberry wine or jam!

Nanking Cherry (Prunus tomentosa)

A delightful flowering shrub that produces edible fruit for human or bird consumption. Considered a good “wildlife plant,” Nanking Cherry can create an attractive flowering hedge or windbreak and a good refuge for birds making for the high ground when danger (e.g. kitty) approaches. Mature height: 6 to 10 feet.

Crape Myrtle “Natchez”

The abundant clusters of long-lasting, delicate, white flowers, along with the attractive peeling bark, make this a popular choice for garden designers. The birds will thank you for the brownish fruit that arrives in fall and persists through winter. Natchez can reach a height of 30 feet at maturity in full sun and loamy soil.

Red Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

A great “dual purpose” shrub for birds! It is dense, rounded and thorny, providing safe cover, and the bright red berries provide food from late fall through winter. You’ll love the masses of small, deep red-to-purple leaves that make it a spectacular hedge or filler shrub.

If possible, leave an area of your lawn unraked in the fall. You’ll see ground-feeding birds busily flipping through leaf litter searching for insects.

Give them a few good reasons and the birds will come!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Creeping ground cover plants to grown down wall

QUESTION: “I have a concrete wall that is 4 foot tall, and the only place to plant is on top of the wall. We’d like to have ivy or creeping fig, but everything I read indicates that it "climbs". I need something that will grow down and yet cling to the wall. Is there such a thing or do I have to provide wire outlines and try to train it downward? I cannot find any solution to this question on the internet.” – Tom W.

ANSWER: That’s a great question, Tom! With some plants, yes, you do have to provide wire or string for them to get the “hang” of where to grow. A few creepers that I am familiar with that will naturally grow down are creeping sedum, wooly thyme, Archers Gold thyme, red wall virginia creeper (which will branch down when its growth falls over a wall) and creeping phlox.

QUESTION: “We have what is probably a 38 year old hawthorn tree which sustained quite a bit of damage from heavy snow and wind over the winter. I cut off some of the broken branches and left the fine tuning to my husband. There were originally four sturdy limbs attached to the main trunk. I thought perhaps that we would have to totally remove one limb but that the rest would be ok with some careful trimming.

“Well, my husband really got carried away cutting away everything but four bare limbs which are 4 to 5 feet long. It looks kind of like four fingers sticking up, one longer than the others. In other words… awful!

“My question is whether the tree will send out new branches and if it could ever look attractive again. Or would it be better to have the tree removed and start anew with another small attractive tree. I like the looks of the Red Bud Forest Pansy, but would it be suited to the weather in Eastern Washington. I would appreciate any advice you can give me.” – Teresa H.

ANSWER: When an older tree is severely damaged, it is difficult to say whether or not it will come out of the shock and begin to grow again. Given the age and what sounds to be the severity of the damage, you might want to consider taking the tree down.

Should you decide to give it some time to see how it performs, it’s worth bearing in mind that it will take years for the younger branches to grow out. It sounds like the kind of cutting that we often see along the sides of the road where the electric companies harshly prune old maple and oak trees. They never really look good after that.

Red buds should grow well in your area as well as poplars, dawn redwood and river birch. Good luck with your tree.

QUESTION: “Our neighbors installed a chain link to keep their dogs in their yard. The problem is, they do not weed whack the grass along the fence. The clumps of tall grass are an eyesore. I would like to plant shrubs and flowers to hide the mess. Some ideas of what to plant that would require minimal maintenance would be very helpful. The span is about 100 feet.” – Lana

ANSWER: Tall growing ornamental grasses would blend in very nicely such as many of the miscanthus varieties and also the panicums. The panicum northwind is a tall straight growing thick grass that is quite pretty. Ornamental grasses only need to be weed whacked down in early spring. Otherwise they look good the other 3 seasons.

As for some shrubs, you might look at the Domestic nandina (an evergreen) or Rose of Sharon (also known as rose of Sharon and hibiscus). These would be my best suggestions on dealing with your situation, replacing an eyesore with your own “fence” of grasses and shrubs.

Storm-damaged gardens need special TLC

As many regular readers know, my wife Cheryl often answers many of the questions we receive regarding gardens, landscaping and plants of every variety. Cheryl recently started a blog in which she addresses topics that affect garden lovers of every level of experience from beginner to professional and everything in between.

Because of the recent spate of damaging weather that has affected so much of our country, I thought this would be a good time to include in this column an excerpt from Cheryl’s latest blog entry, titled “Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms:
What to do next!” You can read the entire article, and others, at Cheryl’s blog: cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com At that blogspot you can click on numerous helpful links with a great deal of information for people whose landscape has suffered weather-related damage.

Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms: What to do next!

After these natural disasters, I always receive emails from our members who are concerned about how to go about saving their trees or what to do about their lawn.
In addition to preparing your dwelling for a hurricane or tropical storm, be sure to store lawn ornaments and all lawn furniture. Stake all young trees. Mow the lawn. Short grass doesn’t accumulate as much debris as tall grass lawns. In areas where there are regular storms, check out a series of online articles posted by Louisiana State University that will help you prepare your trees to limit weather damage. (Direct links can be found at Cheryl’s blog.)

Young trees, shrubs, perennials, gardens and lawns are most affected by the saline dropped by rainfall from hurricanes and tropical storms.

Let’s address lawns first. The dried sediment accumulation on your lawn and around your landscape should not be tilled into the soil until you are certain that it does not contain high levels of saline. For large accumulations (more than a couple of inches) of sediment, scrape or otherwise remove it. High levels of salt in the soil will kill plants. Initially, the plants will appear as though they have been burned, but when replanting in the same spot, future plants will react the same way. If you are near the coast, you may want to have your soil tested for salinity.

Remove all trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses that appear to be dead. If the sediment doesn’t have saline, you can now till the sediment into the soil. At this time, it would be a good idea to also add in aged compost or other organic matter and if your soil compacts easily, add in coarse sand. Till well, level and reseed.

Fruits and vegetables aren’t always at the top of the list to be concerned about. However, if your area experienced a hurricane, tropical storm or heavy flooding, be cautious in eating from your garden as well as any locally grown produce as it could be contaminated with bacteria. Fruits and vegetables that were mature at the time of the disaster, should be disinfected, peeled and thoroughly cooked before eating. Leafy vegetables and fruits, such as berries, tomatoes, squash, are highly susceptible to bacteria contamination, while root crops such as beets, onions, and potatoes, are less susceptible but still should be disinfected, peeled and cooked.

Immerse produce for 15 to 20 minutes in a chlorine solution, rise thoroughly with safe drinking water, peel and cook before eating.

Household bleach contains 2 to 6% chlorine. One chart that I came across breaks it down as this:

• If your bleach contains 2% chlorine bleach, add ¾ tablespoon to one quart/water
  
• If your bleach contains 4% chlorine bleach, add 1 teaspoon to one quart/water
  
• If your bleach contains 6% chlorine bleach, add ½ teaspoon to one quart/water
  

Again, rinse thoroughly with safe drinking water, peel and cook before eating.

To read the entire article, including links to some very helpful Web sites, go to http://cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com


The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Fungi thrive in waterlogged soil

QUESTION: “I am asking for your advice to rid my shrubs of what my agricultural county agent has told me is a 'fungus'. The shrubs are large, about 8 ft tall, and I let them grow at will with not much trimming as a divider in my huge backyard. The leaves look similar to Red Tip, but are not red.

“Last year, about this time, a white, chalky, grainy residue affected one plant. It lost a few leaves and then regained itself with no help from me. This year however, I have a different situation. It has attacked three of these shrubs which do touch each other and whole, large limbs have lost all their leaves and stems have turned crispy as if they are dead.

“My ag agent suggested a spray with a fungicide which I did about 2 weeks ago. I really don't think the fungus is spreading, but I wonder if I don't need to cut out the affected areas and maybe need to treat another time or two.

“I've heard of home remedies for some things and would like your 'recipe' for a homemade concoction to use as the commercial spray was quite expensive.” - Nancy Grimes

ANSWER: I don’t know of a specific “home remedy” to use as a fungicide. Perhaps one of our resourceful readers has one! If so, please let me know.

Meanwhile, here is a link to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with a great listing of organic ways for disease control that they should find quite helpful. http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/sustainable/handbooks/naturaldisease/leasttoxic.html As that’s quite a long URL, you might prefer to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org where you can click on a direct link.

However, one of the best methods is to control the watering situation as many fungi begin with over watering in areas where there is not enough light to provide adequate evaporation. As listed in the Brooklyn Botanical link link, copper and sulfur have been used for a hundred years or more can control most rusts, but great care must be taken as they can be toxic to humans and animals.

QUESTION: “I have a statuary fountain that stand about 7 feet tall. Around the fountain is a full-surround planter, 18 inches wide. Half of the planter gets adequate water from splash and the other half gets so much water that it is more like a pond or riverside.

“Can you point me in the right direction to find wet soil plants? I believe you’ve written about them before. I live in the southwest USA and the summers are hot and dry. The wet side of the fountain is probably the result of wind and is unique on my property.” - Patrick Abernathy

ANSWER: The first thing to do is double check to make sure that the far side planter is draining properly. During hot, dry summer days, the splashing from the fountain could be burning (scorching) the plants, causing them to die from the top down. Also, if you are adding any chemicals to the fountain water to prevent mold, it will affect the plants.

You might consider a few plant varieties that will grow in damper soils such as:

• Daylilies
  
• Irises
  
• Sedges
  
• Buddleias
  
• Low growing bamboo
  
• Low growing cypress
  
• Creeping cotoneaster
  

You could also consider hostas and ferns that will do well if the area is shaded.

QUESTION: “I have a problem with mushrooms coming up in my yard where a tree was taken down last year. They are coming up mostly at any area that had root runners from the trunk that was ground. Is there anything you can spray on them as they come up in large groups and continue to come back even if you dig them up.

“Also, when is the best time to trim Crape Myrtles?” – Tommy Neal

ANSWER: Wet soil is frequently the reason for mushrooms. We have similar problems in our garden. I don’t know of a spray you could use, but just let the area dry out and get a lot of sun.

Crapes should be trimmed after leaf drop in winter or in spring before they begin to leaf out.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Fall planting: your plants will thank you next spring!

Professional gardeners and landscapers know an important “trick of the trade”: Fall isn’t the end of the growing season, it’s the beginning! And here’s why you should be thinking about planting right now.

Coo-ool weather
If you were the proud parent of an infant who was just a few months old, would you take her outside in her baby carriage under a blazing sun? Or do you think she would be more comfortable enjoying the open air on a cooler, less muggy day?

Think about your “plant babies” in the same way. In most parts of the nation, planting in spring means the tender little guys are soon exposed to the scorching heat of the sun and must endure it throughout the summer during a crucial time in their development.

However, fall planting is far less stressful on your plants. Shrubs and trees planted in the fall have the advantage of a cooler environment above, and perhaps something even more beneficial, out of sight below ground. Roots have the perfect opportunity to grow and establish themselves without the need to concentrate on providing nutrients as well.

In fact, the root systems of fall-planted plants can continue to grow throughout autumn and into winter, usually becoming dormant only when ground temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Essentially, planting in fall, instead of waiting until spring, gives your plants a head start of several months. By next summer they will be sturdy, resilient adolescents instead of vulnerable, tender babes, and far better prepared to take on the rigors of a hot, and possibly dry, summer.

Save water
Did I mention “dry”? Most trees and shrubs planted in spring require regular watering during this vital “establishment” phase of their development. Summer’s heat makes this even more critical.

But in the fall, you will not need to provide your new plants with nearly as much water. As you might imagine, evaporation is much less of a factor in the autumn, so water loss is greatly reduced. Additionally, a plant’s water requirements are considerably diminished when the natural process of photosynthesis slows down as the days become shorter.

Another water-related benefit is that in the fall you are unlikely to be faced with municipal watering restrictions that might affect your new plantings during a long, hot summer. Nothing is more depressing to a garden lover than to see new, young plants dying because of lack of water.

Lower prices
We all like to grab a bargain and smart gardeners can take advantage of sales and clearance-priced plants at this time of year. If you’re buying from a reputable nursery, the plants now on sale have probably been cared for throughout the summer by knowledgeable professionals and should be ready for fall planting… but at a much lower price!

It’s worth asking an expert at the nursery, or at least carefully reading the plant’s tag, to be sure of the best time to plant as this can vary from zone to zone.

Because the Internet makes just about every kind of shopping easier, don’t forget to do some research on your computer. Simply go to Google and type in “online nursery” and you’ll find perennial shrubs and trees ideal for fall planting at bargain prices.

Forget the fertilizer
Plant in the fall and forget the fertilizer until next spring. Why? Fertilizing new plants at this time of year could force new growth that would then fall victim to frost damage during the winter before it has time to harden off. Buying and using fertilizer is a chore and an expense you won’t need to worry about, at least until spring!

More fun, less stress
Many people tell Cheryl and me that they find fall planting more enjoyable. The reason, they say, is that they can concentrate on the planting in the slower-paced ambience of fall. With so much to do in a spring landscape, it’s easy to be distracted from the joy of planting.

It’s fair to say that some plants, including many groundcovers, may prefer spring planting, so it’s advisable to ask at your nursery or check the plant’s tag. But for the most part, planting now will give your garden a powerful head start on spring. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Snakes? Deterrent tips to keep them away

Maybe you enjoyed “Snakes on a Plane” as an entertaining movie. But it’s a whole less fun when it’s snakes in your home’s foundation, as this reader discovered.

QUESTION: “How does one get rid of snakes without poisoning pets? The snakes are around the house foundation and we believe they are Racers.” – Teresa Finch

ANSWER: According to the Web site www.snakesandfrogs.com “Black Racers are slender black snakes of adult size from 30 to 60 inches in length. They are called ‘racers’ because they are active, fast moving snakes. Usually, these snakes quickly slither to the safety of thick grass or brush when encountered. If cornered or grasped, they will bite viciously in defense.” However, they are not venomous.

As you might guess, snakes generally go where there is a food source. Chances are that they are eating rats, mice, frogs and large insects, and the black racers also eat poisonous snakes.

When it comes to snakes, and most other unwanted critters for that matter, prevention is the best cure. Limit the habitat and food source for the snakes’ prey and you reduce the likelihood that snakes will take up residence once those tasty rodents and insects are scarce.

Here are some quick and simple ways to keep snakes away:

• Keep the area around you house mowed. Tall grass invites small rodents and insects.

• Trim or prune excessively dense or overgrown shrubs for the same reason.

• Be sure that garbage containers are covered.

• Remove all brush and stone piles that would attract rodents.

• Patch all holes into the foundation or crawl space of your house, including drain pipes.

Steve and I live way out in the country where most of the adjoining property isn't cleared off, and outside cats and large dogs have pretty much kept snakes away from the immediate area around the house.

Here’s an idea you might want to consider. Water soluble granulated sulfur can be spread over the yard and watered-in to keep fleas and tick under control, but I have also read where it will keep snakes at bay as well. Check your hardware store or farmers’ co-op for a supply source. If you do decide to use granulated sulfur, it’s essential to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and avoid inhaling the dust.

In the past few years, we have offered this snake repellent.

QUESTION: “Our backyard has been a challenge since we bought our home. We have always teetered on the fine line of lawn and weed infestation. Well, last summer we let it do itself in and we have since been unable to reverse the affects.

“The lawn was Bermuda with rye grass and many different weeds mixed in from the neighboring vacant lots. The Bermuda was not well established when we bought the house and I'm not sure there is even any Bermuda left at this point. Our back yard is a smorgasbord of weeds, rye grass and dirt spots and, newly added this summer, thorns (goat heads). What can we do to fix our lawn?

“My husband seeded it but they were choked out at a delicate age (and probably not done correctly, don't tell him I said that). We don't have the money to do sod so what are our cheap options to fix a dying lawn in a hot area? What can we do to conquer the weeds once and for all and get rid of the goat heads which so conveniently came up around our children's swing set?

ANSWER : There are a multiple of things going on in your yard. It sounds like everything from poor drainage and compacted soil, to unhealthy soil. (Weeds do great in unhealthy soil) But the good thing is you are coming into the fall that is a great time to start over and you should be able to do it yourself.

Here is an online site I have used in the past for lawn questions. It is a commercial site for Scott’s turf builder but does give great advice. http://www.scotts.com/smg/gosite/Scotts-v2/toolGallery

Transplanted blueberry plants need soil boost to thrive

QUESTION: “I was looking for information online about blueberries, plants for shade and composting and found your site. Could you email me the article on composting as I would like to start a compost pile.

”Also I did have a question on my established blueberry plants. They are 6 mature plants; they are 4 feet high and I know two of them are Northland variety that were here when we moved in three years ago. I transplanted them in a row about 2 feet apart, to the east side of our woods as we live in a wooded two-acre lot. They were near the house where they received only a few hours of sun midday so I thought they would get more sun on the outer edge.

”I haven't pruned them yet as I didn't know how to do it. (They really need it!) I recently found this information that recommends peat moss, sand, or sawdust in the soil. My question is: should I dig up the plants and re-plant them with the adequate soil content? The soil we have has more clay matter. I do not know the pH level of the soil. They did better last year for bearing fruit but have much new growth this year. Thanks for your help!” – Karen

ANSWER: Here are links to the composting articles that I believe will be helpful: http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/33585, http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/8875

Additionally, if you simply go to the landsteward.org site and put “compost” in the search field, you should find about ten Plant Man columns and articles on aspects of composting and soil enrichment.

As for the blueberry plants, I would not dig them up and replace the soil, at least until after dormancy. I would, however, begin to add organic things to the soil as a top dressing that will leach down and become part of the soil over the years. The best thing I have found is a product called Black Kow. It is a composted manure and as a top dressing it is really wonderful on the plants and leaves no odor.

QUESTION: “We have a steep hill in front of our house. The house was built on a "pad" which was carved out of the hill. We are new to the house but we suspect that erosion has taken place beyond the front yard down the steep slope. I have thought of terracing but it is hard to imagine how to terrace it as it is so steep. We would like to do this the most inexpensive yet productive way.” – Liz

ANSWER: For serious erosion problems, you should install erosion netting. This will control the situation and allow you time to consider what you would like to plant there. You can follow up with ground covers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, perennials, etc, by cutting X's in the netting and planting.

However, you will need to set a sprinkler on the area for longer periods to make certain that the water goes through the netting and into the ground. Mulch wouldn't be a good idea over it as it would only wash away.

QUESTION: “I have recently purchased a farm that included a pond. However this pond looks like it was designed to grow duckweed! Do you have any suggestions on how to kill this pest without the need for store bought highly priced chemicals?” – Victor Cummins

ANSWER: Duckweed is a simple plant without any obvious stems or leaves. They float on or just below the surface of the water and are a food source for water fowl (and even humans in parts of southeast Asia). Once established in a pond, duckweed can be difficult to eradicate. If a colony of duckweed covers the water surface, oxygen depletion can occur, killing any fish in the pond. These plants should be controlled before they cover the entire surface of the pond Here is a link to Perdue University on controlling duckweed and watermeal. Good luck on the situation. http://www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Steve’s ten turf tips for a healthy summer lawn

Of all the plants in our landscape, it seems the one area that needs the most attention is the lawn. Trees and shrubs seem content to live pretty much without our constant attention. But ignore your lawn and before long you’re living in a wild meadow.

Here are my Ten Turf Tips to get your lawn safely through the heat of summer.


Don’t over-water
At the height of summer, there’s a temptation to water your lawn every day. Just because you need a drink of water doesn’t mean your lawn does. Instead of daily watering, give your lawn a thorough soaking less frequently, once or perhaps twice a week. This practice forces the grass to push down deeper roots making it stronger and healthier.

Avoid over fertilizing
If one pound of lawn fertilizer is good, ten pounds must be ten times as good, right? Wrong. Apart from being a waste of money, applying too much fertilizer or applying it unevenly can burn the blades of grass, leaving brown spots. Overdoing the fertilizer, in combination with over-watering, can also increase thatching which prevents water reaching the roots and encourages disease and pest problems.

Natural fertilizer
Leave grass clippings on your lawn after you mow. As they decompose, they will naturally add a certain amount of fertilizer back into the lawn. I should add that this works best when you’re mowing on a regular basis so that the coverage of clippings is fairly light.

Naughty Fido
Another cause of brown spots is dog urine, particularly female dog urine. If you see it happen, your best bet is to grab the hose and give it a quick blast of water. The lawn, that is, not the dog. This will dilute much of the urine before it has a chance to “burn” the grass. I’ve heard from readers who recommend feeding dogs a low protein diet to reduce nitrogen in the urine, or adding tomato juice to the feed or baking soda to the water. I strongly suggest asking your veterinarian before trying any solution of that nature!

The mower did it!
No dogs in the neighborhood, but you still have a brown spot? If you refuel your mower while it is standing on the lawn, spilled or runoff fuel could be the reason. Refill the mower’s tank away from the lawn or place a tarp under the mower. Or be very, very careful.

When to water
Regardless of where you live, the best time to water your lawn is between 5:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. Watering in the heat of the afternoon means that much of the water will evaporate before it can filter down to the roots. Watering at night can increase the likelihood of pest and disease problems.

How much water?
One way to see how much water your sprinkler is putting out is what I call the Tuna Can Test. Put a few empty tuna cans or cat food cans out on the lawn and turn on your sprinkler for exactly 15 minutes. Turn it off and measure the depth of the water caught in the cans. Take the average depth and multiply by two, to tell you how much water you grass would receive in 30 minutes. As a rule of thumb, that should ideally be about one inch.

Keep off the grass!
As much as possible, avoid walking on grass that has just been watered or when dew is still on the ground. This is also true for frost-covered lawns in the winter. You could bruise or damage the blades of grass making them susceptible to disease.

Walk on the grass
… when it’s not wet, that is. Put on a pair of golf shoes and stroll around your domain while your body weight pushes the spikes into the lawn to provide much needed aeration. You can actually buy lawn aerator overshoes, but some people find them awkward and difficult to keep on.

Use a reel mower
Sometimes called a push mower, a reel mower can be a good solution for a small to mid-sized lawn. No more buying expensive fuel, inhaling smelly fumes or splitting your eardrums. Plus it’s healthy outdoor exercise! The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Pear trees need a pair for pollination

Even without a partridge, a pear tree can add a special touch of beauty to almost any landscape. But, depending on your needs – ornamental or fruiting - you should do a little research before you plant.

QUESTION: “I have been told you need two pear trees to produce fruit. I just planted an ornamental pear, FLW Cleve Select. My neighbor just across the road was told if you have another pear tree within a half mile, that would work for the second tree. He wants to plant a pear tree. My question: will my ornamental work for his "second" pear tree if he plants a fruit bearing pear or does he need two of his own? Thanks for your time and help.” -- Mickey VanSickle

ANSWER: Ornamental flowering pears will not work to cross pollinate fruiting pear trees. When planting a fruiting pear tree, a second variety of a pear tree should be planted within about 300 feet for cross pollination. The two fruiting pear varieties should either bloom at the same time or overlap their blooming period. Otherwise, pollination will not occur.

QUESTION: “I have a Cleveland pear tree and half of the leaves are dead-looking and brown colored. Any idea what is causing this problem? Your help is appreciated.” – John Young

ANSWER: It sounds as if your tree is showing signs of stress. A few things that you will want to check are: Fire blight Freeze damage Frost damage Wind damage Over/under watering Borers Residue from chemicals sprayed in the area

These are probably the most common reasons for pear trees to show stress. You can narrow the list by eliminating any that you know definitely could not be responsible. When you’ve narrowed the list, you might want to take a sample twig or a photo to a garden center or better still, call your nearest Ag Extension Service, as they might be knowledgeable about any causes specific to your local area. If you need help locating your local Extension Service, drop me an e-mail.

QUESTION: “I am having a problem with some of my trees that I plant that die due to girdling. The root just goes in a circle and kills itself. What can I do to prevent this?” – Fran Imlay

ANSWER: For readers who are unfamiliar with the term, girdling refers to the tendency of the roots of some trees to grow tightly around the main stem of the tree and slowly restrict the movement of water and nutrients. As a result, leaves become smaller, paler in color and less dense.

One preventative action is root pruning and/or fraying out the roots of container-grown plants before transplanting.

Here is a link to very helpful online article from the University of Ohio Extension Service about root girdling: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1139.html You can also click on a direct hot link to that article when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: “I am wondering if you can suggest to me what to plant in my backyard that seems to be damp and moist most of the time. We are having three of our Austrian pines removed because of the drought last summer. We have been told they are dead. The area is in direct sunlight and the ground area seems to be damp due to a water drop off. What are some good trees or plants to replace in this area? We want something for privacy as well as beauty.” -- Vernice

ANSWER: Sorry to hear about your pines, Vernice. I suggest you take a look at the following trees that could be what you need: Maples, bald cypress and river birch. Something you might not have thought of: Growing bamboo and taller growing grasses in larger containers. They provide quick privacy and can be moved around as other plants begin to grow taller. Some other plants that I’d suggest for your backyard are Canna lilies, Nandina, Hibiscus and laurels. I hope this gives you some ideas to build on.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Sustainable landscaping saves time, energy and money

Is your garden a sustainable landscape? Ideally, it should be. By “sustainable” I mean that it is in balance with the local climate and requires minimal resource inputs such as fertilizer, pesticides and water.

Take pesticides for example. One survey indicates that homeowners use ten times more pesticides per acre than farmers and two thirds of household users dispose of excess pesticides in the trash or down the drain. Detectable limits of pesticides have been found in 5% to 10% of wells as a result.

When it comes to your pocketbook, a single acre of lawn will cost you between $400 and $700 per year to maintain. And approximately 75,000 people require medical treatment every year for mower-related injuries.

Perhaps because of these factors, many homeowners are turning to a more naturalistic garden design. A naturalistic landscape requires less maintenance, reduces environmental harm, can benefit wildlife and still provides seasonal interest.

One way to create a successful naturalistic garden is to focus on native plants. Native plants are those that grow naturally in your geographic area rather than plants that are introduced from other parts of the country or from overseas.

Native plants are best adapted to local conditions and thrive with minimal care. Generally, native plants won’t harm natural areas. In a book titled “Wildflowers Across America,” Mrs. Lyndon Johnson wrote, “Wherever I go in America, I like it when the land speaks its own language in its own regional accent.”

A basic rule of thumb for a naturalistic sustainable garden is to select the right plant for the right place. By that, I mean it’s important to assess the site conditions, such as soil type, sun and shade and rainfall, and then select plants that thrive under those conditions.

I often hear from readers who say they have a sloping area of land that is experiencing soil erosion. The ideal solution is to plant some native groundcover plants that require little or no maintenance. The roots of groundcover plants hold the soil in place and also hold water, creating a healthy environment that prevents soil erosion and doesn’t need dangerous or risky mowing on a slope!

If you have a soil erosion issue or a hilly, sloping area that is hard to mow, a groundcover plant would probably be you best solution. You are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with some brief details of your situation and your geographic area and I’ll be happy to respond with some suggestions.

Meanwhile here are a couple of groundcover “idea starters.”

Bronze Ajuga
Sometimes known as Ajuga reptans or Carpet Bugle, this evergreen plant produces crowns and spreads by horizontal above-ground stems called stolens. It grows only to a height of 6” to 8” and produces spikes of attractive purple-blue flowers each spring.

Grass Carex Pennsylvania Sedge
When readers ask me what they can plant beneath trees, I often recommend Pennsylvania Sedge. It’s a native plant from West Virginia to Georgia to Alabama and forms soft, grass-like, 15 inch clumps of very narrow bright green leaves.

Heucheras Plum Pudding
This little guy won my heart! It grows well in shade and around trees. It’s a tough, long-lasting perennial that requires little maintenance.

Additionally, if heating and air conditioning costs are a concern, remember that trees on your landscape can lower energy bills by about 25% .

Recently, I’ve been traveling to some East African nations to assist in developing plans for sustainable agriculture that will boost their economy while growing much needed plants for the world market.

While in Ghana, I saw people carrying sturdy, colorful baskets that were so much better than the plastic or paper bags we use here to bring home groceries from the supermarket. I found that they are called Bolgatanga Market Baskets. They are hand-woven by Ghanaian artisans to provide income during the dry season. I brought home several baskets and now Cheryl and I use them constantly. If you’re interested in owning one or two of these baskets, drop me an e-mail and I’ll give you some shopping information.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Weeds? The remedy could be in your kitchen

Drought might be a landscape’s biggest enemy, but sometimes too much rain can bring problems of its own, as this reader found.

QUESTION: “Following some recent heavy rain, I noticed a LOT of tiny bright green weeds suddenly sprouting up through the mulched beds in front of our house. I mean there are hundreds of them.

“My question is this: Is it safe to get rid of them by spraying them with Round Up? The beds contain several established evergreen shrubs, no small plants or flowers. The prospect of trying pull up each and every one of the little pests is almost too much to imagine, so I'm hoping I can get rid of them some other way, but of course I don't want to risk damaging the shrubs. What do you suggest?” – Mike H

ANSWER: Cheryl saw your question and said, “Put some white vinegar in a spray bottle and have at it. The vinegar in cooperation with the summer sun will kill off weeds. It may take a couple of good sprays, but you have to be stronger than the weeds. You can do it!”

Good advice, to which I would add this. Stir up the mulch every so often to disturb the roots of the little weeds. Do this in the hot part of the day so the ones on top do not have a chance to re-root. Round Up is good if the weeds are a certain height but not before that. A benefit of Cheryl’s solution is that it’s all natural. Use ordinary white vinegar, full strength. However, you still have to take the same care as if you were spraying Round Up and be careful not to spray the vinegar onto your non-weed plants.

A few days later, I received this e-mail from Mike: “Steve, I’d read one of your Plant Man columns that included a question from someone looking for highly concentrated vinegar to use as a weed killer. Because of that, I didn’t expect much from the ordinary vinegar I bought at the supermarket, but decided to give it a try. I put the vinegar in a plastic spray bottle and carefully sprayed the baby weeds. For good measure, I also sprayed some weeds coming up between the cobblestones in the front walk.

“When I looked the next day, the weeds I had sprayed had all shriveled up! As you suggest, I will stir up the mulch a bit and keep the vinegar spray handy for the next time the weeds emerge.”

QUESTION: “I have a Kwanzan cherry tree about 5 feet tall. It was doing GREAT… then a deer ate the leaves and as it pulled away it snapped the trunk (below the branch development). It was still hanging on so I taped it back up hoping it would heal. What should I do?” – David McDonald

ANSWER: There’s really not a lot that can be done over and above what you have done already. Frankly, the chances are it will not come back from the trauma caused by the deer.

However, one thing you can try is to angle-cut the tree at the base about 3 inches from the soil. It will sucker out stems if the tree is still viable. When most of the stems reach about 6 to 12 inches, cut off all except the best. You may have to stake it but probably not.

If your tree has a good root system, the roots will cause the “new” tree to grow to maybe where you were before the deer damage. Good luck!

You might also want to invest in a product called Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent. You can buy it as a 40 ounce concentrate or as a Pump & Spray combo pack that includes a 48 ounce pressure sprayer and 6 ounces of Liquid Fence, enough to make three quarts of repellent shat should be enough to treat 1,500 square feet. If you need some shopping information, drop me an e-mail.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Books and products that add to garden fun

I’ve always thought that cooking enthusiasts and garden lovers have a lot in common.

For example, cooks tend to have a shelf full of cookbooks and always seem to have room for “just one more.” Additionally, they love to find cool tools and gadgets that will make their lives easier and more productive.

In the same way, gardeners tend to be voracious readers of books on every aspect of plants, garden design and landscaping. And no shed feels complete without an array of garden tools and related outdoor products!

Today, I’ll point you at a few items that you (or your garden-obsessed significant other) might find fun, useful or maybe even both.

Let’s start with books…

“Don’t Throw It, Grow it” by Deborah Peterson When is a leftover piece of gingerroot not merely destined for the compost heap, or a wrinkled potato well past its prime more than just an affront to the eye and nose? When Deborah Peterson gets her hands on it and transforms it into a windowsill plant.

Visitors to our Web site www.landsteward.org know that Cheryl and I are strong advocates of recycling. If kitchen scraps can find a new life as attractive houseplants or even homegrown food, so much the better.

Peterson’s book includes growing instructions for 68 plants in four broad categories – kitchen vegetables, fruits and nuts, herbs and spices, and more exotic plants. With Peterson’s help, a sweet potato turns into a blooming vine; chickpeas transform into cheery hanging baskets; a humble beet becomes a dramatic centerpiece; and gingerroot grows into a three-foot bamboo-like stalk.

“Designer Plant Combinations” by Scott Calhoun If you’ve watched the HGTV show about the 25 biggest landscaping mistakes, you’ll remember that one of the mistakes was called “scattered color.” Professional landscape designers think in terms of a palette of colors that enhance each other, whereas amateurs often scatter colors like randomly-dropped crayons.

In this new book (available August 2008) Calhoun demonstrates 105 plans that use six plants or fewer. Rather than complete garden designs, these combinations are small, understandable pieces intended to demystify the design process for home gardeners, particularly those dealing with small spaces.

Filled with photos and illustrations, this book should inspire the exterior decorator in every homeowner.

Moving out of the bookshop and into the back yard…

Bat House Kit
The most natural way to control mosquitoes is to allow bats to feed on them. A single bat can eat hundreds or even thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, and a bat house kit is a fun project to share with the kids or grandkids.

Mosquito Repellents
For the skeeters that escape from the bats, you need a way to keep them away from you when you are outdoors. Apart from that annoying itch, insect bites can cause West Nile virus, Lyme disease and malaria. Two new products claim to repel mosquitoes and other flying insects without the use of DEET.

Don’t Bite Me! patches are discreet, all-natural transdermal skin patches that deliver a blend of protective Vitamin B1 and aloe throughout the body. The manufacturer says that the waterproof patches can protect against bites from mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, chiggers and sand fleas for up to 36 hours. Unlike a spray, the patch will protect often-missed body areas such as ears, nose and scalp. The patches are available in 5-pack boxes for $4.99 and 10-packs for $7.99.

BugBand is another DEET-free repellent designed to protect you from biting and blood-sucking insects. It’s a wristband impregnated with Gerantol, a natural plant-based that keeps flying insects at a safe distance. BugBand is reusable (for up to 120 hours) and each band comes with its own storage pod in which to keep it between uses. Individual BugBands cost $4.95 and a four-pack is $14.95.

Liquid Net for Horses is a DEET-free pump spray specifically designed for horses. Spray it on your horse before you hit the trail and the flies, gnats and mosquitoes will stay away from your horse… and you.

So put on some bug repellent, build a bat house and relax in the garden with a couple of inspirational books.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

These Hellebore “ladies” arrive early, stay late

The height of summer might be an odd time to be thinking of winter but that is just what I was doing the other day. Cheryl and I were looking at some of our Hellebores and I was reminded that these plants are among the very first to bloom each year. In many areas, Hellebores are blooming as early as February.

The Hellebore genus is native to Europe and varieties can be found from the Mediterranean region to the northern reaches of Ukraine and into the Caucasus states such as Georgia, Armenia and Southern Russia. Perhaps this diversity explains why many Hellebore varieties feel at home in the varied climates of the United States.

If you are considering adding Hellebores to your own landscape, I will describe four easy-care hybrids that might be perfect for you. But first, let me share some fascinating facts and myths about these intriguing plants.

At first glance, it seems that the Hellebore’s petals remain long after you would have expected them to wither and die back. The reason? They are not petals at all. Each flower has five petal-like sepals that surround a ring of small nectaries that are the “real” petals, secreting nectar that attracts pollinators. The true job of a sepal in nature is to protect a flower in bud. In the case of Hellebores, the sepals themselves remain to become a delightful, and often colorful, feature of the plant.

One variety of Hellebore is nicknamed “The Christmas Rose” even though it is definitely not a member of the rose family and does not bloom at Christmas. Legend has it that it sprouted up through the snow from the tears of a little girl crying because she had no gift for the baby Jesus.

On the other hand, there are folklore tales of witches adding Hellebore to their cauldrons to summon up demons. However, other legends describe Hellebore being used to ward off demons. A versatile plant indeed!

There is evidence that the Ancient Greeks used certain Hellebore varieties for medicinal purposes, often as a purge or an emetic. However, the roots of certain Hellebores can be highly toxic and I strongly advise you not to self-medicate with any Hellebore plants!

Leaving aside tears in the snow, demons, medicines and poisons, Hellebores can certainly be an excellent addition to your landscape, particularly when you want to see some floral color in later winter and early spring.

Hellebore Red Lady
This hybrid produces red-maroon sepals in winter that persist into May.

Hellebore Blue Lady
This is one of the darkest forms of Hellebore with deep purple-blue flowers that I find breathtaking.

Hellebore Pink Lady
If you prefer a more delicate color, the Pink Lady could be for you, with her showy, cup-like sepals in shades of pale pink.

Hellebore Ivory Prince Plant this handsome young fellow alongside one (or more) of the beautiful Ladies. Prince’s creamy-white coloring compliments his showier companions.

All of the hybrids I’ve described here have lush, shiny, evergreen foliage that is very attractive even when not in bloom. Growing to a height of only one to two feet, these Hellebores can make a delightful groundcover forming clumps about two feet wide.

If your landscape includes a raised bed, so much the better as you’ll be able to really appreciate the beauty of their colorful, gently nodding heads.

In a perfect world, these Hellebores would prefer being placed on the edge of a woodland setting with moist loamy soil. To approximate these conditions, plant them in a semi-shaded area in soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig a hole twice as large as the root ball and add some compost or other bulky organic matter before planting the Hellebore.

These deer-resistant hybrids are long-lived and require little or no care once established, but they seem to flower more vigorously when organic matter is added in the spring.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Defensive planting deters moles

In a recent column there was a question from a reader who had a problem with moles. I asked for suggestions from other readers and I received a lot of response. If moles are giving you headaches, you might find these ideas helpful.

DEAR STEVE: ”I'm not quite sure what eats tulip bulbs, but I seem to have hit on a solution. The first year we had our country weekend place I planted tulips and saw not a single one in the following spring. Whatever it was did not eat or burrow through the daffodils or the bearded iris I planted.

”Last year I decided to try again and planted a circle of daffodils shoulder to shoulder around each clump of five tulips. This involved opening a 12-14" diameter hole of the appropriate depth so that all bulbs could be deployed at the same time at the same depth. I covered them all up and when I was up to the appropriate depth, I put in aconite, muscari and crocus. Everything arrived in its turn this spring.

“The burrowing creatures at the bottom of the garden - moles or voles or likely both - almost killed Madame Isaac Periere by tunneling right under her this year, but avoided the chionadoxa planted in little clumps between the roses. I'm thinking they are planted at just about the same depth as the tunneling denizens of the lower yard and I am going to try tight phalanxes of such things around the ornamentals down there, making sure I have something planted at every depth I've seen the tunnels. It's the Catskills; you don't go too deep before you hit rock and the rock attracts the earthworms and the excavations I hog out to put in ornamentals like the roses make easy ground for burrowing creatures.

”I don't know if this sort of defensive planting will work in this case, but the iris and daffodils I planted that first year are still there after four years in the middle of mole/vole metropolis. The iris are planted deeper there than I would have done down in Virginia where I come from because of the hard winters, so you'd think they would be subject to mole damage, but I've never found any tunnels under them. They thrive and grow enormous in the mountain climate and I have not seen any rhizome rot issues even though they do have to be covered with about an inch or two of earth.

“My suggestion: I'd try the repellant you described and some defensive planting. Other things down there that have never shown any sign of tunneling damage are coneflower and black-eyed susan, daylilies, peonies and shasta daisies.

“The garden backs up against a rather boggy bit of meadow that slopes down to our pond and nothing in that meadow seems bothered and the main residents are an assortment of grasses as well as Joe Pye weed (pink eupatorium) and its cousin, White Snake Root, white turtle heads further down, solidago in several varieties, blue vervain, elderberry, both the early purple and the later red, cuckoo flower (cardamine p.), false solomon's seal, Canadian Mayapple, an assortment of asters and daisy fleabane, blue cohosh and trout lily at the higher dryer part, wild strawberries and other things too numerous to mention that grow and bloom and contribute to the lovely tumble.

“More cultivated things that were planted before we arrived up at the dry part where tunneling has been observed are Russian sage, creeping phlox and lamium, Mallow and butterfly weed also persist as well as chives. The clump of chives the former owners left behind is now a five foot swath. Onion-like plants might be a clue!” - Alice Standin

DEAR STEVE: I read your column with a question from a woman having critter problems. How well I know the problem! A friend gave me a Spurge plant a couple of years ago that truly works. As you know, they are quite invasive and toxic. As my garden is extensive, I have a “Spurge purge” about once a year, but now I have no moles or voles”. – Jo Laxton

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Plant your way to a private backyard haven

During spring and summer we all tend to spend more time enjoying the outdoors part of our home. A lazy lunch on the patio on Sunday, perhaps, or relaxing on the deck with a cool drink as the sun goes down. Maybe an impromptu picnic in the backyard.

If you happen to live in a remote country setting, your closest neighbors are probably deer, bunnies and other assorted wildlife. But for most of us, suburban living means that our homes are in fairly close proximity to those of our human neighbors. Sometimes a little too close for comfort.

You don’t have to be a hermit to want a little privacy when relaxing in your backyard. But at the same time, you don’t want to build a mini version of the Berlin Wall and alienate everyone in the neighborhood. What can you do to create a private haven in your backyard while continuing to live in harmony with your neighbors?

Creating privacy with trees, shrubs and other plants provides a number of benefits. Firstly, of course, living plants are a lot more aesthetically pleasing than a “dead” wall or an expanse of bare fence. Additionally, a hedge or some appropriately-sized trees are a friendlier barrier between you and your neighbors than a solid wall.

“Appropriately sized” is an important factor here. A relatively small space would not be a suitable location for a stand of trees that would grow to a great height because they would eventually dominate your yard, blocking out all sunlight and probably becoming a bone of contention with your neighbors! Always determine the expected mature height before you invest in any trees that are intended to form a barrier.

So what to plant? Every situation will have its own unique characteristics, but a good starting point would be to look at…

Thuja Green Giant
I find myself recommending the Green Giant more and more these days, particularly to homeowners looking for some privacy. For a start, it’s remarkably fast growing, shooting up three feet or more every year. Green Giant is an evergreen conifer with a delightful conical habit and dense, dark green foliage that reaches right down the ground. A few Green Giants, planted about 5 feet apart will create a very dense screen; plant them further apart for a more open feel.

Green Giant doesn’t need a lot of TLC. It’s a hardy plant that tolerates almost any soil and is resistant to damage from ice and snow. Additionally, it is heat and drought tolerant, once established, and resistant to disease, pests and even deer.

Although it doesn’t need to be pruned, you should be aware that it can grow to a height of 30 to 50 feet. If you are planting a row of Green Giants as a living fence, you can easily keep it trimmed to 8 feet, 10 feet or whatever works in your situation.

This is a good time to be planning your privacy needs because fall will be here before we know it and Green Giant is ideal for fall planting. As you can see, this tree is definitely a favorite of mine! But there are other ways to use plants to enhance your privacy.

Dark Green Arborvitae
If you can wait until next spring, you might consider Dark Green, my favorite Arborvitae. Plant The Dark Green in a row about 5 to 7 feet apart in the spring and in a few years, you’ll have a lustrous green hedge that maintains its color through the winter. You’ll need patience as it’s not a fast grower, but it is worth the wait.

Trellis plants Just a reminder that, in a recent column, I described some “social climbers;” vine-like plants that cling to pergolas, gazebos and latticework. If you missed it, you can find that column at our informational website, www.landsteward.org. A strategically placed trellis can provide privacy but in a more open, less dense way than a row of Green Giants.

You are welcome to send me a few details about your specific challenges and I’ll try to help you create a private haven in your backyard.

Invite these social climbers into your garden

If you have an ugly fence or a bare expanse of wall, a lush, green vine might be the answer you’re looking for.

The word “vine” once referred only to grape plants, but now in American English usage, vine can include many varieties of climbing and creeping plants.

I know some people are hesitant to plant any kind of vine as they fear its potential to become invasive. However, if you are aware of this potential at the outset, you can either select varieties that are minimally invasive or decide to control the spread of your vines to keep them manageable.

Most vines are remarkably versatile plants, able to grow vertically if given a trellis or wall to cling to, or to spread horizontally across the landscape, creating a dense and verdant groundcover.

Let’s take a look at a few vines so you can see which ones might work best for you.

Climbing Hydrangea
A good choice if you will be planting away from direct sunlight because Climbing Hydrangeas are tolerant of shady areas. Actually, they prefer at least partial shade in hot areas of the country. However, they bloom more profusely when exposed to a fair amount of sun.

In early summer, Climbing Hydrangeas produce fragrant white groupings of blooms called lace caps, each about five inches across. The dried flower heads and reddish brown, peeling bark are attractive in winter. Climbing hydrangeas prefer moist but well-drained soil that is at least moderately rich.

Wisteria sinensis Also known as Purple Wisteria, due to the color of its blooms, this is a fast-growing vine that is ideal for trellises and arbors. You can also train it into tree form if you prefer. The bright purple flowers are about one inch long, appearing in late May, borne in dense, 6 to 12 inch long racemes.

Wisteria is actually a member of the Pea family and is named after an eighteenth century anatomy professor named Caspar Wistar. You can read a helpful fact sheet titled Growing Wisteria, published by the Ohio State University Extension Service at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1246.html

English Ivy
Yup, this one really can be invasive, so understand that you will probably need to keep an eye on it and be prepared to take steps to contain it if it begins to spread beyond your desired area. Having said that, English Ivy is a very attractive plant (except to those who consider it a pest) and its dark green, glossy leaves, growing vertically in a dense mass can add an established characteristic quite quickly to new construction.

Baltic Ivy
As much a spreader as a climber, Baltic Ivy is often used as a groundcover in northern zones as it is an evergreen with remarkable cold hardiness properties. In fact it was brought to America from Latvia in 1907 by Alfred Rehder, curator of the Herbarium at Harvard University, who gave it the name “Baltic” Ivy.

A university bulletin, published in March 1932, stated that the plants: “have grown into a solid mantle of green reaching well above the second story windows.” As a consequence, in 1937, a journalist coined the term “Ivy League” to describe Harvard and seven other northeastern universities.

Purple Wintercreeper
Although it certainly can climb, given the opportunity, Purple Wintercreeper is seen most often as a groundcover. It can spread almost indefinitely by way of rooting stems, and thus it could be a good choice for an edger alongside a path or driveway that would act as a natural container.

Purple Wintercreeper can be a useful plant to battle erosion on slopes and hillsides and I have seen it climbing walls and the outsides of chimneys. It works equally well in the sunny or shady areas of your landscape.

Just a reminder: as I’ve mentioned before, a product that can be effective in controlling spreading vines is an herbicide called Vine-X Vine and Brush Control. Vines can be a pleasing addition to your landscape when kept properly under control. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Holy Mole-y! Reader needs help with burrowing critters

Garden pests come in all shapes and sizes. Some have four legs, some have six or even eight legs. Some, with no legs at all, slither on their bellies, while others fly or creepy-crawl. But sometimes the most frustrating critters are the ones that tunnel below the surface and chomp away on your plant roots.

Perhaps you have a solution to help this reader with her problem…

QUESTION: “Any new ideas on how to deal with a serious mole problem in our acre of heavily landscaped yard and gardens?

“We live in the country, and our house is on former farm land and pastures. I understand that moles are supposed to be very territorial creatures, and that only one or two moles are supposed to inhabit an acre of land, but we know that we have many more, because we can visibly see them tunneling along in different areas of our garden.

“My husband and I respect all forms of life and refuse to attempt to trap, poison, harpoon, electrocute, gas, or shovel-bludgeon these little creatures to death, but we are very tired of repairing all the damage that they do to our beds and the expensive plants that they manage to uproot. We've tried all kinds of folk lore remedies to discourage them from our yard (such as pepper based products), and we've tried the commercial castor-oil based sprays (makes your soil terribly sticky and sickly!), to no avail.

“We've also tried the ultrasonic in-ground devices, but I swear that the moles seem to be attracted by anything new that we introduce to the ground and they do MORE damage in the areas that we try to protect with such devices. We've also tried to plant things in plastic or wire mesh cages to prevent root damage as they tunnel around, but again, these little critters seem to go berserk in the "protected areas" and tunnel out all the soil surrounding such cages, thus defeating the purpose of this time-consuming effort.

“In frustration, I bought traps, but couldn't bring myself to use them. We've considered getting a cat, or perhaps a couple of ferrets, or maybe a boa constrictor to set free in the yard... but, alas, we have a thriving bird community that would be threatened by the cat... and recruiting other critters to kill the moles isn’t really consistent with our "violence-free" philosophy, is it?

“Have you any other ideas that might make our garden a little less appealing to these creatures?” – Deborah Abraham

ANSWER: I can empathize with you because we have similar problems in our gardens. I have used a product called Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent and it works for us.

It’s a simple product to use in that you simply attach the container to your garden hose and spray the ground. Apparently it works by coating earthworms and plant roots with something highly distasteful to moles but harmless to humans and animals. The moles tunnel elsewhere in search of tastier meals. Contrary to popular belief, moles almost never eat plants, subsisting on worms and other small invertebrates, but they can damage plants by undermining the roots and often create molehills on lawns.

However it is a constant problem. When you use the product the moles move on but within a month more are back and you need to repeat the process. We feel the same way about killing the little things and that is why we do this once a month rather that put out traps or poison. The manufacturers claim that the product is biodegradable and environmentally safe.

You mentioned folk remedies, and I’m guessing that there are hundreds out there! So come on, readers: Share your mole-be-gone solutions and help Deborah and other frustrated gardeners! Remember, your remedy must be effective in your experience (rather than hearsay) and should be humane and non-toxic. You might see your remedy included here in a future column. Send your suggestion in an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org You can also contact me there if you need shopping information for the Liquid Fence Mole and Vole Repellent.


The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

“Alien” slime mold invades mulch!

QUESTION: “A couple of mornings ago, I noticed a strange yellow clump of something had appeared, apparently overnight, in one of our flower beds. It was a bright, almost neon, yellow and very moist and slimy. It looked almost like some kind of alien being! “By the next day, it had formed a skin or crust on top and was turning brown. It now looked like a very large, stale egg foo yong! The following day, a second patch appeared, about six feet away in the same bed. Is this some kind of fungus? I am planning to remove the two clumps with a shovel and replace the mulch. But I'd also like to know if there's a way I can treat the soil to discourage it from happening again.” – Mike H

ANSWER: We’ve had these things show up too and they do look weird, don’t they? The good news is that they might be unsightly but they are not plant parasites.

Slime mold is indeed a type of fungus that produces large, single-celled bodies called plasmodia. Plasmodia are the feeding stages of the fungus and can be seen on mulch, lawns and dead wood, according to the folks at the Plant Disease Clinic at Cornell University. You can read their complete article at http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/slimemolds.pdf.

Although slime mold is not a plant parasite, small or vulnerable plants can suffer if the mold covers or shades them. Slime molds will eventually disappear if left alone, but they are unsightly and you might want to remove them.

The folks at Cornell say that on mulch, they can be raked or turned under and on turf they can be mowed. In my case, I wait until the slime turns to a dry, flaky crust and remove it with a shovel. It will probably return when the conditions are right, but it’s good to know that slime mold isn’t really harmful to plants.

QUESTION: “Thank you so much for your helpful tips each week! I have a question about pruning in general. We have two azalea bushes and a very large bush (8-10 feet in diameter, 12 feet high) in our back yard (I'm afraid I don't know what kind it is, but its leaves turn bright red in the fall and it has small leaves about the size of a large thumb nail).

“We need to prune these back, as they are starting to creep into walkways and phone lines. What is the best time to prune? I don't want to kill the azaleas and the bush, but I want to keep them under control. The azaleas are currently blooming, and the bush has produced leaves. I appreciate any advice you may have.” – Sonja R.

ANSWER: From your description of the large bush, it sounds as if it is a non-blooming variety so you should be able to trim it now or most any time. As for the azaleas, the best time to trim these is after the blooms are spent or finished.

I received the following note from a reader in response to a question here about spiders:

“My brother has a good solution for spiders but it must be used with care.

”Old fashioned mothballs will kill spiders and insects. When my brother is going to be gone for a few days he throws a few under his trailer. He never has problems with the black widows, etc., that frequent his area. They die because the mothballs close off their lungs. (They will also damage human lungs if we are inhaling those fumes for any length of time.) Besides putting them under porches or other areas spiders love, you can sprinkle them around the outside of your arbor, house, etc. Note that they should not be allowed to vaporize close to food.

”I prefer to use more natural methods but this is a solution that works with some very unwelcome ‘critters’.”

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