Don’t forget the garden this Holiday season

The Holidays are here again, and with short days and so much to do, it’s not easy to focus on what needs to be done in and around your landscape. That’s particularly true when there’s a cozy fireplace indoors and it’s cold and windy outdoors!

However, we shouldn’t totally ignore our garden because some things really can’t wait until spring. Once again, here are a few of my “What To Do Before Santa Gets Here” tips. Or, if you must, after he’s flown back to the North Pole.

Take care of your tools

If you’re like most people, your tools are leaning against the wall in the garage or shed, just where you left them the last time you were working in the garden. And they probably still have chunks of dried dirt and dead grass stuck to them. A few minutes invested now will pay dividends next spring.

Start by cleaning mud and dirt off shovels, forks and trowels. That’s a minimum, but it’s also a good idea to rub the metal parts with an oily rag. If you have a can of WD-40 on the shelf, that'll work fine. If you have any linseed oil, rub it on to the wooden handles to prevent them drying and cracking.

Remember the mower

Trying to start a lawn mower for the first time in the spring can be a hassle, particularly if it hasn’t been touched since the fall. If you haven’t done so already, now’s the time to start up your mower and let it run until the gas tank is empty.

Clean off the mower blades to remove the clumps of compacted grass, and if they need sharpening, this could be a good time to call up a mower service shop and see if they have any winter specials. For a more comprehensive look at winter tool care, see a previous Plant Man column archived at my web site. You can find it here:
www.landsteward.org/page.cfm/5220

Snow covered limbs

Tree limbs, that is, not yours. Remember that trees and shrubs can be damaged by the weight of heavy, wet snow. To prevent or minimize damage, gently shake the branches of delicate trees and shrubs so the heavy snow falls away. You can also use a broom to brush snow from the branches. But be gentle as you don’t want to cause trauma to your tree.

Christmas trees

If you’ve selected a real tree this season, remember the magic word: Water! A “living” tree needs a thorough watering before you bring it into the house, and it shouldn't stay indoors much longer than ten days if you want it to survive outdoors after the Holidays.

A “cut” tree needs water, too. Saw a couple of inches off the cut end and check the water level once or twice a day. You might be surprised to know that a cut tree can absorb as much as a gallon of water a day.

As always, the Internet is a superb resource for both professional landscapers and home gardeners. Here are few winter-related sites you can browse:-

Titled “Winter gardening: design tips that work,” this is a useful article published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden:
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/1998wi_winter.html

For a comprehensive list of plants that look good all year but add special interest during winter months, check out this article published online by Iowa State University:
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1996/4-5-1996/hiver.html

For a list of books on winter gardening, prepared by the science reference service of the Library of Congress, go to:
http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/SciRefGuides/wintergardening.html

David Beaulieu, the “guide” at landscaping.about.com is always a good resource and his Web site is loaded with helpful articles. Go to the site, below, and simply type in “winter” (or any other topic) in the search window:
http://landscaping.about.com

Expert (and free) help can usually be found at your nearest Agricultural Extension Service. For your nearest location, go to this USDA site and click on your state on the map:
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension

And as always, I’m happy to help with your garden and landscape questions, many of which are featured in the column.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Holiday gifts that gardeners will love

The Holidays are upon us! If you have a garden lover on your gift list, you might be wondering what to buy for him or her. After all, it’s not as if you can cram a dogwood tree into a stocking. No, really, I mean it. Kids, don’t try this at home.

But at this time of year, those of us who love to be outdoors working with our plants get the winter blues as we stare out the window at a bleak landscape, wishing it was spring time. Here are a few gift ideas, under $30.00, for garden lovers…

“The Botanical Palette” by Margaret Stevens, PSBA

Both Cheryl and I enjoy painting. Because our home is surrounded by many acres of trees and shrubs of every size and variety, both wild and cultivated, plants are frequently the subject of our paintings.

We were fascinated by “The Botanical Palette,” subtitled Color for the Botanical Painter, and published by Collins in association with the Society of Botanical Artists. It features 20 step-by-step demonstrations to address the problem that many aspiring artists face when trying to find the ‘right’ colors. The detailed demonstrations reveal exactly how each flower painting is created, from the initial drawing to the finished illustration.

But you don’t even need to be an artist to appreciate this book. With over 300 superbly reproduced color illustrations, this is an excellent gift for anyone who loves the beauty of nature.

The Planket

I’d mentioned this product briefly in a recent column about protecting tender plants from frost, but only now has the weather been cold enough for me to try it. This would be a very practical gift for your gift-list gardener who is concerned about losing plants in a cold snap this winter.

Unlike plastic sheeting or garbage bags, the Planket allows plants to breathe while covered. Plankets are lightweight and easy to handle, and the drawstrings mean they are easy to secure around the base of the plant. They also have grommets in case you need to peg down the cover more securely.

They are available in four sizes: 6 ft, 8 ft and 10 ft diameter and a really big 10 ft x 20 ft rectangular blanket. Cheryl and I first saw the Planket on HGTV’s “I Want That” and you can see a clip from that show at www.theplanket.com

No, a Planket won’t replace diamonds as the most romantic gift, but a true garden fanatic could find one or two of these plant savers very welcome this winter.

Butterfly houses and bat houses

Gardeners love to see butterflies flitting silently around them as they work with their plants. One very good way is to ensure an abundance of butterflies is to provide them with some free lodging. (Another good way is to plant butterfly-attracting shrubs such as Buddleia.)

A butterfly house helps increase the butterfly population and protects them from predators and the elements. The vertical slots let butterflies sneak in safely while the weather and their enemies are kept outside.

If you dislike mosquitoes as much as I do, bats are your real-life heroes, rather than that comic-book superhero. Bats can eat hundreds, even thousands, of mosquitoes in a single night, meaning there are fewer skeeters to feast on me. Hang a few bat houses away from your house and you’ll encourage them to nest there rather than in your attic.

Many bat houses come in kit form so they can be a fun family project. Both adults and kids enjoy assembling the kits, and it’s a good way to understand how beneficial bats are to our environment.

Be sure that any bat house kit you pick is open at the bottom so birds cannot nest in it. You can find good butterfly houses and bat houses for under $30.00.

AccuGrow Soil Test Strips
Testing your soil is the smart way to grow beautiful vegetables, flowers, fruits, lawns and houseplants. Only by knowing the nutrient levels in your soil can you determine what you need to add to maximize growth.

With this product, you simply dip e test strip into a soil sample and you get test results within minutes. Each strip has a chemically impregnated pad that changes color when exposed to soil and is then compared to a color chart to indicate levels of pH, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A good gift, under $30.00, for your gardener!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, www.landsteward.org

Abandoned rail tracks become green space haven

When the original use for a piece of land becomes obsolete, it’s an excellent opportunity to turn it into an area that the entire community can enjoy as an attractive green space, rather than allowing it to degenerate into a weed-covered eyesore.

When a stretch of disused railroad track became available, this reader jumped at the chance to put her green thumb to good use.

QUESTION: “I love your articles and I have a few questions that hopefully you can answer. There is an old railroad track here that has been turned into a bike/snowmobile trail. There is a neighbor’s house next to it but there is enough space to put in a nice size hedge with no problem. The area is quite long before it meets the woods and starts at a city street.

“The suggestion from the County (I am volunteering myself because I am in a landscape horticulture program) was a line of evergreens/shrubs. The department just didn’t exactly know what to put there. On the other side of the trail is a large ditch that I thought may need to be covered in slabs as it is too steep to be easily mowed. Right next to that is the parking lot that needs a fence for bikes and a barrier for the cars to go no further.

“I have been looking for ideas as to what to put for the hedge without just using one type of evergreen but I am not sure how to go about making the easy transition into bringing other types of plants/shrubs to add some variation and would be pleasing to those that are on the trail or from the street where the trail begins.

“Any ideas that you think may be helpful?” – Sue Crabb

ANSWER: This sounds like a very exciting and worthwhile project! I think the evergreens would be excellent as a backdrop for other shrubs that you could plant in front of them. A rule of thumb is to plant the evergreens in odd-numbered groupings such three, five, etc.

For the shrubs, the key issue is “easy to grow.” Avoid high-maintenance plants and look for shrubs that are fairly self-sufficient. Create interest by selecting shrubs of different heights, shapes and colors. Mix evergreens and deciduous perennials, and think about planting some low growing groundcovers, such as creeping red sedum, along the front of the row.

Speaking of groundcovers, rather than cover the ditch with slabs, I suggest you investigate to see if groundcover would be a practical alternative. A hard-to-mow slope is often the perfect place for a dense groundcover that is green and attractive while keeping the weeds at bay.

Vinca minor or trailing periwinkle is a fast growing excellent evergreen groundcover for full sun, shaded and semi-shaded areas. It produces dark green oval-shaped foliage and conspicuous blue flowers in early spring. You can combine trailing periwinkle with Pachysandra if each kind is kept in large colonies, not mixed together. It grows almost flat on the ground, so in the location you describe it would follow the contours of the ditch creating a visually-pleasing undulating line.

You could also use evergreens as a “living fence” to form the barrier for the parking lot. or centerpiece for both sides. A good choice might be pyramidal arborvitae, an evergreen tree with bright green foliage. Most pyramidal arborvitae can reach a height of fifteen to twenty-five feet and have a spread of about three to five feet, but can of course be trimmed to give a lower and flatter topside. They make an excellent screen, and can grow at a rate of about one foot per year. When young, the pyramidal arborvitae has a bright green color to its foliage, which darkens as the plant ages.

Remember, this is not something that needs to be done all at once. Do the base plantings first and then add to it as time and money permits. It makes the task more fun if you can make it a community project in which a number of people can get involved.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Select trees that fit the scale of your landscape

Just as cute little puppies grow into big dogs, small trees can grow until they overpower both your garden and your home, as I explain to this reader…

QUESTION: “I have a 10' x 12' section of lattice work that I want covered with climbers. It is in a shaded part of the yard. What would you recommend that would be a fast grower?

“I also want to get a fast growing tree for my front yard. Any help will be appreciated.” – Brian

ANSWER: I can suggest several climbing plants that you should look into. You might consider five leaf akebia, variegated porcelain vine, and Boston ivy for your lattice panels. You can find pictures, descriptions and growing tips for them with an online search or a visit to the library.

When it comes to fast-growing trees, take a look at birch, poplar, green ash, and sycamore. An important consideration is size. Be sure to find out what the mature height and spread will be before you plant any tree. If you select a tree that will be much too large for your yard, it will not only be out of scale for your landscape, it has the potential to interfere with overhead power lines, drop heavy limbs onto your roof in a storm or even damage your home’s foundation with its root system.

QUESTION: “My parents have a garden that is overfilled with columbines, a breed named ‘Aquilegia Vulgaris – Clementine Dark Purple’. We have tried two seasons in a row now to rid the garden of these, as my parents aren’t gardeners and these are multiplying by the dozens all over their property. I’ve tried to dig them up in early spring before they flower but each year I must have missed one of two, hence they grow and multiply….. Please help!” - Shannon Genier

ANSWER: You have my sympathy as I am trying to get rid of Wisteria which is one of the tough ones. I’m a little puzzled as the columbine variety you mention is supposed to be non-invasive. In any case, I am using a product called Vine-X.

The active ingredient in Vine-X is in a special vegetable oil formulation that actually penetrates the waterproof bark of invasive vines and brush plants. Once applied to the stem, Vine-X moves through the plant's internal capillary system to the root, where the active ingredient works to disrupt the plant's growth activity.

This may work for you but will have to be done on different sprouts throughout next summer.

QUESTION: “I have an odd entrance area at my condo that was constructed in the early 1970s. I’ve tried several types of container plants in an effort to add some green to the space in the spring and summer, but everything seems to fail. I’ve resorted to artificial boxwood topiaries and hanging baskets with ferns (I set them out for some sun periodically and they last for the summer).

“I was thinking about building window boxes that are about 24” deep so there’s plenty of soil, rigging up grow lights on a timer, and planting ‘Bamboo Green Screen’ in the boxes. I’m questioning if a high wattage grow light will do the trick for this variety of bamboo that says it requires “Full Sun”; would that be successful or would you suggest something else? I’d like to stick to something evergreen and non-flowering.” – Brian Cunningham

ANSWER: I hate to be discouraging, but I have to tell you that it is difficult to take plants that are normally grown outdoors and keep them permanently in such an enclosed area without being subjected to any of the elements. Those types of plants do need at least some rainfall, wind and filtered light in addition to regular watering and fertilizing. There are bamboo varieties that will grow in shaded areas, such as the fargesia panda. Also, hostas, Solomon’s seal, clematis, ferns and astilbes could grow there as well.

But when taking plants out of their normal environments, it can be trial and error to find those that will do okay. Be prepared to experiment until you find those that work best!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bed sheets keep plants cozy on freezing cold nights

QUESTION: “I am from Texas and currently I’m living in Ft. Drum, NY, because my husband is in the service. I am not used to snow and I have some plants that I need to know how to take care of.

“They are in my flower bed and are perennials and I don't know if I am supposed to cover them with some sort of plastic or mulch or just dig them up and put them in the garage. I have a red spike plant, lavender salvia, dusty millers, and hostas. I also have a tomato plant that is in a flower pot with a tiny tomato beginning to grow on it.

”Since the weather is changing here, I need to know what I can do. If there is any advice that you can give me, I would appreciate it.” – Brenda

ANSWER: No need to dig them up, Brenda! I know that some gardeners like to put plastic garbage bags over vulnerable plants, and that’s okay in a pinch; for instance if you find out that a freeze is imminent and garbage bags are all you have.

However, my best suggestion is to use cloth sheets, such as old bed sheets. If you don’t have any old sheets, you could invest in some ultra-cheap bed sheets from a dollar store or a thrift store and keep them in the garage or shed specifically for this purpose.

I prefer cloth sheets to plastic sheeting as they allow a better and more natural air flow around the plants. Gently lay the cloth sheets over the plants in the evening, weighting down the edges with rocks if you are expecting strong winds that might blow them away. The next morning, after it begins to warm, simply remove the sheets and put them where they can dry out a bit and are ready for the next chilly night.

On the subject of adverse weather conditions, several readers have asked about an article that my wife Cheryl wrote on the subject. Titled “Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms,” it includes tips on what to do when natural disasters strike. You can find it on her blog at cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com

QUESTION: “I was wondering if you could help me decide what kind of hedges, trees, etc. to plant along our property line. The area is WET. We’ve tried growing evergreens (3 rounds) and every time they die — too much water. Our neighbor planted river birches along his property line, but I want some hedges as well. Any ideas as to what kind of hedge can withstand lots of water? I would appreciate your help.” – Cristina Elliott

ANSWER: There are a number of plants that like nothing better than a location that keeps their feet wet! When you have a wet landscape, it is pointless to plant shrubs and trees whose natural environment is normal to dry soil as they’ll never live up to your expectations… or even live, for that matter.

Several azaleas (including Coastal, Sweet, Pinkshell and Swamp) like wet areas, as do the Dogwood varieties Tartarian, Silky and Red Osier. In fact, those three can even grow in a certain amount of standing water.

Winterberry, some varieties of Viburnum, Fothergilla and Red Chokeberry are also options, as is Bordeaux yaopon holly, which has the charming scientific name Ilex vomitoria Bordeaux!

There’s an excellent Web site, hosted by North Carolina State University that provides a comprehensive list of wetland-loving plants. Click on each listing and you can see descriptions, details, growing tips and (in most cases) photos. Well worth a visit if you’re dealing with soggy soil! You can find it at www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/quickref/shrubs/shrubs-wetareas.html
As that is a long address, you might prefer to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org where you can click on a hot link.

A bog garden turns wet area into beautiful feature

Unless we are very lucky, most of us have issues with at least part of our landscape. An area that is nothing but heavy clay that won’t drain, a deeply shaded section that receives little or no sunlight, or an area baked by the sun all day, for example.

It’s tempting to give up on that area and assume that nothing can be done. But quite often a solution can be found, if you are creative and tenacious like this reader…

“Dear Steve: Thank you for addressing the issue of soggy, boggy lawns, and thanks for your link to Brooklyn Botanic Garden [in a recent Plant Man column].

“I live in Washington State, adjacent to a slope which apparently developed a natural spring which flooded a part of the hill and spread into our lawn this summer. Since our soil is mostly compacted clay, my solution was to transplant about 3 feet of the lawn, break up the clay and mix some topsoil and peat moss to about 10" deep. I have planted Louisiana iris, plus some evergreen plants (sword ferns and Ogon) for winter interest. It solved my problem and looks lovely!

“I admit this was hard work, but simpler than the complicated instructions suggested by Brooklyn Botanic Garden. I'm not really into hard labor. I think my bog garden will work as well as theirs with about half the work. Just a thought for your readers ...” – Anne Botwin

Well, Anne, I’m glad this column inspired you to make lemonade out of lemons… or in your case, a bog garden out of a “soggy, boggy lawn”.

When you’re dealing with a sizable area of heavy clay soil, there’s no getting around the sweat equity involved, unless you have some strong, young friends who owe you a favor and are willing to donate a few hours of hard labor. But the results are definitely worth the effort. When you’re done, you have a thing of beauty where once was an eyesore.

Other readers might want to check out the link to the article at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Web site: http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/handbooks/watergarden/8.html

As that’s a long URL, you might prefer to find this Plant Man column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org, where you can click on a hot link to the article.

In fact, the article is an excerpt from a book that is the ideal reference for anyone looking for help with creating a bog garden. Titled “Water Gardens: Pools, Ponds, Marshes and Bogs for Backyards Everywhere,” it is a collection of highly detailed how-to articles by several acknowledged experts and is part of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden 21st Century Gardening Series.

Another benefit of this book is that different chapters address specific geographic regions with chapter headings such as “Wetland Plants for the Southeast & Deep South” and “Wetland Plants for Western Mountains & Pacific Northwest” so that readers anywhere in the United States will know what will or will not work well in their location.

For example, Anne mentions that she planted sword ferns (Polystichum munitum) in her new bog garden. An excellent choice for her northwestern locale, but I would certainly not recommend it for a bog garden in, say, the southeast. Sword ferns’ natural habitat is the very moist understory of coniferous forests found in low elevations in the northwest. Sword ferns are difficult, if not impossible, to grow in eastern areas.

With bog gardens, as with any garden project, your best bet is to stick with plants that are native to your geographic area, rather than opting for plants that would thrive elsewhere but are unlikely to work in your garden.

Anne used the Botanic Garden article as a starting point but then decided to adapt the guidelines to suit her own preferences. Cheryl and I do exactly the same thing. When necessary we’ll call on experts, such as landscape architects, but we don’t feel obliged to follow everything slavishly. Ask experts, read articles and then personalize with your own creativity!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Black spots on holly bush: fungus or aphids?

For many gardeners, their plants are like children that they rear, nurture and care for with lots of TLC. When a plant shows signs of illness or trauma, the proud “parent” wants to put things right. But these “kids” can’t tell you where they hurt!

That was the problem faced by two readers who wrote to me when they noticed problems with their holly bushes.

QUESTION: “I was wondering if you know why my mature holly bushes have dark black fungus that looks like mud on the leaves? I have landscaping with over 50 hollies and only the four that are against the house facing west have problems with the leaves.

”Also, why do I have moths in the lawn? I noticed them today while cutting the grass. Is there any way to get rid of them? I have fertilized the lawn twice this season already, the last having insect control in it.” – Laren Imperatore

ANSWER: I believe the black spots could be a result of aphids. Once you control the aphids the black should eventually wash off. Using a systemic insecticide for aphids, spray both tops and bottoms of the leaves as directed on the label. Concerning your lawn moth problem, here is a link to the University of Tennessee, Knoxville on lawn insects. It is a big document but on page 9 you will find thee information you need on sod webworms.
https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1158.pdf

QUESTION: “Last year, in the spring, I planted a holly bush in my front yard which gets
lots of sun. By about September/October last year, the leaves had started to turn brown and fell off. I just bought another one and have planted it in the same place. Do you have any advice on how I can make sure this one survives?” -- K. Roy

ANSWER: Holly bushes like full sun with well drained, highly organic acid soil. Aside of that, they generally will grow fine.

When you went to purchase your new holly, it would have been a good idea for you to have taken pictures of the one that died to let the sales person work with you to find out why it died. This would have been beneficial in knowing before planting another in
the same place so you could be careful to check for those signs.

Continued plant care is important. You should follow the same path that the garden center was using in caring for the new holly. When you purchased the plant, they should have given you care information to continue with after planting. If you didn't receive any info, you should contact them on this matter.


QUESTION: “I have a hedge of 12 emerald greens on the south side of our house. They have been in the ground for about six years and have grown nicely. Our winter was colder than normal by a few degrees with a bit of snow several times and a late spring. The shrubs have been beautiful and green all winter but now all are showing some brown on one side. There is new growth on top.

“Is this a disease or anything to remedy or be concerned about? We live on Camano Island, about 90 miles north of Seattle but with better weather than Seattle due to the shelter of the Olympics to the west. We are on the northern end of a "convergence" zone which brings weather in around to mountains to Everett, WA.”

ANSWER: From what you tell me, it sounds like freeze damage. It doesn’t always show up in late winter. Sometimes it takes warmer temperatures for the plant to realize it is wounded. If the browning continues to envelope the plants, you may need to look further, for other suspects such as spider mites or too much dampness in the soil. With the plants producing new growth, it does sound like they are trying to work their problem out.
Good luck with them.

Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a great selection of garden plants including shade trees, rose shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, and more.

Bog garden could be solution to waterlogged yard

QUESTION: “We live in a small neighborhood of stone houses built in the late 1920's. Moving into a stone house was a dream come true. However, we quickly found out that the water table in the area is quite high, and the soil is mostly clay.

”Fortunately, the house already had a sump pump system that drains out into the front lawn. Unfortunately, it runs every 10 to 15 minutes and because the soil in this area is clay, it was creating an un-mowable bog in the front yard. We have added to the drainage hose so that it now goes all the way down to the storm water ditch that runs across the front of the property. Now all that water sits across the front of the lawn next to the street. It still doesn't drain back into the ground, and is starting to creep into the neighbor's property (making him not so happy with us.)

”I've looked at installing a rain garden or bog garden along the side of the ditch, but I'm not sure it will look nice enough for the neighborhood since this would be along the front of the house. We've also considered pulling the water to the other side of the basement, collecting it in a rain barrel, and creating a water garden in the back yard. The engineering of that would be tricky and I'm not sure the water wouldn't just overflow and come back into the basement (causing more problems). Also, I am unclear as to whether either of these options would actually move the water far enough under ground to keep it from just coming back up in the sump pump.

”Do you have any suggestions or creative ideas on how to turn our extra 75gal/hour of water into an attractive part of this home?” -- Jessica

ANSWER: That is quite a problem. From the high water table (and maybe also from wet weather springs) it sounds as though your lawn is completely saturated. Because you do live in a suburb area and are most likely under building and hardscape code limitations, I would recommend talking with someone in your local building codes office. They should be able to discuss possibilities with you within the neighborhood restrictions.

The easiest solution would be for the city to allow you to pump the water up to the street level to run into the storm drains. But, some cities have restrictions against that. This is something that does need to be handled so that it doesn't create damage to the structure of your home (or create interior mold problems) and put further strain on the relationship with surrounding neighbors. Here is a link to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with an article on creating a bog garden. http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/handbooks/watergarden/8.html

QUESTION: “I have a question about what kind of worm this is and how to get rid of it. It is green worm that lives in trees and eats the leaves. It produces rat-like feces on the ground below where it eats and it sticks to the tree. We have tried to get rid of it and spray the tree but they still keep coming back. Can you please tell me what this is and how to get rid of it? Thanks!” – John M. Engrisch

ANSWER: From what you tell me, I am not sure what the worms are or the type of tree they are feasting on. I think they might be pearslugs, sometimes known as cherry slugs (Caliroa cerasi). According to the Integrated Pest Management Program at the University of California, almost immediately after hatching, a pearslug exudes a slimy green coating that covers its entire body and gives the appearance of a slug, although in reality it is a sawfly wasp.

The UC site suggests that a pesticide called Spinosad could be effective. You can read more about pearslugs and other garden pests at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/PESTS/pearslug.html
As it is a long URL, you can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

I suggest that you make a point to spray the soil underneath the tree that is encircled by the drip line. I would do this every time you spray in order to break the cycle.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to "mailto:steve@landsteward.org">steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Bird lovers: these plants make your garden irresistible

Imagine your garden without birds and butterflies. What a quiet, still and lifeless place it would seem! If you, like most gardeners, cherish the sights and sounds that birds bring to your landscape, there are simple ways to make your landscape irresistible to flying wildlife.

Remember the movie “Field of Dreams”? To paraphrase the famous line, “Build it and plant it and they will come.” Today I have a quick rundown of tips and plant suggestions to help you do just that.

To create a garden that’s a haven for songbirds, you simply need to supply them with three basic requirements for survival: food, shelter and water.

Bird Feeder(s)

Feeders range from almost free to madly expensive. If you decide to put out a bird feeder, look for one that is difficult for squirrels to access, and resolve to keep the feeder stocked through the winter as many birds will come to rely on your specific feeder as a major food source.

Bird House(s)

Birds that like to nest in hollow trees are finding fewer and fewer potential homes. Add a couple of bird houses and you are helping to resolve the problem. Buy them ready made at home and garden stores or make it a family project with some simple tools and free plans available at http://www.freebirdhouseplans.net

Water
A birdbath, or better still, a water feature will provide birds with another reason to visit. In summer, you’ll need to be sure the water is fresh and not merely a mosquito farm, and it winter check to see it isn’t frozen.

But the best thing you can do is plant an environment that provides food and shelter while adding beauty to your landscape. Some examples:

American Bittersweet (Calastrus scandens)

This is a fast-growing climber producing beautiful clusters of yellow-orange fruit in the fall that birds seem to love. It’s a native plant, usually sold bare root, and adapts to almost any kind of soil. It also looks spectacular in flower arrangements around Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Carolina Alspice (Calycanthus floridus)

Dense, fast-growing shrub with lustrous, dark green foliage that turns yellow in the fall. The dense foliage provides welcome cover for birds. The fragrant reddish-brown flowers give way to urn-shaped seed capsules that mature in fall and persist through winter.

Black Lace Sambucus

Aptly named, this elderberry variety is often described as “stunning” with its finely-cut purple-black foliage, similar to that of a Japanese maple. It can be a better choice than other acer varieties due to its adaptability and durability. In the spring, creamy pink flowers contrast with the blackish foliage, but the birds will enjoy the black-red berries that emerge in fall. Leave the berries for the birds or harvest for elderberry wine or jam!

Nanking Cherry (Prunus tomentosa)

A delightful flowering shrub that produces edible fruit for human or bird consumption. Considered a good “wildlife plant,” Nanking Cherry can create an attractive flowering hedge or windbreak and a good refuge for birds making for the high ground when danger (e.g. kitty) approaches. Mature height: 6 to 10 feet.

Crape Myrtle “Natchez”

The abundant clusters of long-lasting, delicate, white flowers, along with the attractive peeling bark, make this a popular choice for garden designers. The birds will thank you for the brownish fruit that arrives in fall and persists through winter. Natchez can reach a height of 30 feet at maturity in full sun and loamy soil.

Red Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

A great “dual purpose” shrub for birds! It is dense, rounded and thorny, providing safe cover, and the bright red berries provide food from late fall through winter. You’ll love the masses of small, deep red-to-purple leaves that make it a spectacular hedge or filler shrub.

If possible, leave an area of your lawn unraked in the fall. You’ll see ground-feeding birds busily flipping through leaf litter searching for insects.

Give them a few good reasons and the birds will come!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Creeping ground cover plants to grown down wall

QUESTION: “I have a concrete wall that is 4 foot tall, and the only place to plant is on top of the wall. We’d like to have ivy or creeping fig, but everything I read indicates that it "climbs". I need something that will grow down and yet cling to the wall. Is there such a thing or do I have to provide wire outlines and try to train it downward? I cannot find any solution to this question on the internet.” – Tom W.

ANSWER: That’s a great question, Tom! With some plants, yes, you do have to provide wire or string for them to get the “hang” of where to grow. A few creepers that I am familiar with that will naturally grow down are creeping sedum, wooly thyme, Archers Gold thyme, red wall virginia creeper (which will branch down when its growth falls over a wall) and creeping phlox.

QUESTION: “We have what is probably a 38 year old hawthorn tree which sustained quite a bit of damage from heavy snow and wind over the winter. I cut off some of the broken branches and left the fine tuning to my husband. There were originally four sturdy limbs attached to the main trunk. I thought perhaps that we would have to totally remove one limb but that the rest would be ok with some careful trimming.

“Well, my husband really got carried away cutting away everything but four bare limbs which are 4 to 5 feet long. It looks kind of like four fingers sticking up, one longer than the others. In other words… awful!

“My question is whether the tree will send out new branches and if it could ever look attractive again. Or would it be better to have the tree removed and start anew with another small attractive tree. I like the looks of the Red Bud Forest Pansy, but would it be suited to the weather in Eastern Washington. I would appreciate any advice you can give me.” – Teresa H.

ANSWER: When an older tree is severely damaged, it is difficult to say whether or not it will come out of the shock and begin to grow again. Given the age and what sounds to be the severity of the damage, you might want to consider taking the tree down.

Should you decide to give it some time to see how it performs, it’s worth bearing in mind that it will take years for the younger branches to grow out. It sounds like the kind of cutting that we often see along the sides of the road where the electric companies harshly prune old maple and oak trees. They never really look good after that.

Red buds should grow well in your area as well as poplars, dawn redwood and river birch. Good luck with your tree.

QUESTION: “Our neighbors installed a chain link to keep their dogs in their yard. The problem is, they do not weed whack the grass along the fence. The clumps of tall grass are an eyesore. I would like to plant shrubs and flowers to hide the mess. Some ideas of what to plant that would require minimal maintenance would be very helpful. The span is about 100 feet.” – Lana

ANSWER: Tall growing ornamental grasses would blend in very nicely such as many of the miscanthus varieties and also the panicums. The panicum northwind is a tall straight growing thick grass that is quite pretty. Ornamental grasses only need to be weed whacked down in early spring. Otherwise they look good the other 3 seasons.

As for some shrubs, you might look at the Domestic nandina (an evergreen) or Rose of Sharon (also known as rose of Sharon and hibiscus). These would be my best suggestions on dealing with your situation, replacing an eyesore with your own “fence” of grasses and shrubs.

Storm-damaged gardens need special TLC

As many regular readers know, my wife Cheryl often answers many of the questions we receive regarding gardens, landscaping and plants of every variety. Cheryl recently started a blog in which she addresses topics that affect garden lovers of every level of experience from beginner to professional and everything in between.

Because of the recent spate of damaging weather that has affected so much of our country, I thought this would be a good time to include in this column an excerpt from Cheryl’s latest blog entry, titled “Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms:
What to do next!” You can read the entire article, and others, at Cheryl’s blog: cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com At that blogspot you can click on numerous helpful links with a great deal of information for people whose landscape has suffered weather-related damage.

Hurricanes, Tornadoes, Flooding and Storms: What to do next!

After these natural disasters, I always receive emails from our members who are concerned about how to go about saving their trees or what to do about their lawn.
In addition to preparing your dwelling for a hurricane or tropical storm, be sure to store lawn ornaments and all lawn furniture. Stake all young trees. Mow the lawn. Short grass doesn’t accumulate as much debris as tall grass lawns. In areas where there are regular storms, check out a series of online articles posted by Louisiana State University that will help you prepare your trees to limit weather damage. (Direct links can be found at Cheryl’s blog.)

Young trees, shrubs, perennials, gardens and lawns are most affected by the saline dropped by rainfall from hurricanes and tropical storms.

Let’s address lawns first. The dried sediment accumulation on your lawn and around your landscape should not be tilled into the soil until you are certain that it does not contain high levels of saline. For large accumulations (more than a couple of inches) of sediment, scrape or otherwise remove it. High levels of salt in the soil will kill plants. Initially, the plants will appear as though they have been burned, but when replanting in the same spot, future plants will react the same way. If you are near the coast, you may want to have your soil tested for salinity.

Remove all trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses that appear to be dead. If the sediment doesn’t have saline, you can now till the sediment into the soil. At this time, it would be a good idea to also add in aged compost or other organic matter and if your soil compacts easily, add in coarse sand. Till well, level and reseed.

Fruits and vegetables aren’t always at the top of the list to be concerned about. However, if your area experienced a hurricane, tropical storm or heavy flooding, be cautious in eating from your garden as well as any locally grown produce as it could be contaminated with bacteria. Fruits and vegetables that were mature at the time of the disaster, should be disinfected, peeled and thoroughly cooked before eating. Leafy vegetables and fruits, such as berries, tomatoes, squash, are highly susceptible to bacteria contamination, while root crops such as beets, onions, and potatoes, are less susceptible but still should be disinfected, peeled and cooked.

Immerse produce for 15 to 20 minutes in a chlorine solution, rise thoroughly with safe drinking water, peel and cook before eating.

Household bleach contains 2 to 6% chlorine. One chart that I came across breaks it down as this:

• If your bleach contains 2% chlorine bleach, add ¾ tablespoon to one quart/water
  
• If your bleach contains 4% chlorine bleach, add 1 teaspoon to one quart/water
  
• If your bleach contains 6% chlorine bleach, add ½ teaspoon to one quart/water
  

Again, rinse thoroughly with safe drinking water, peel and cook before eating.

To read the entire article, including links to some very helpful Web sites, go to http://cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com


The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Fungi thrive in waterlogged soil

QUESTION: “I am asking for your advice to rid my shrubs of what my agricultural county agent has told me is a 'fungus'. The shrubs are large, about 8 ft tall, and I let them grow at will with not much trimming as a divider in my huge backyard. The leaves look similar to Red Tip, but are not red.

“Last year, about this time, a white, chalky, grainy residue affected one plant. It lost a few leaves and then regained itself with no help from me. This year however, I have a different situation. It has attacked three of these shrubs which do touch each other and whole, large limbs have lost all their leaves and stems have turned crispy as if they are dead.

“My ag agent suggested a spray with a fungicide which I did about 2 weeks ago. I really don't think the fungus is spreading, but I wonder if I don't need to cut out the affected areas and maybe need to treat another time or two.

“I've heard of home remedies for some things and would like your 'recipe' for a homemade concoction to use as the commercial spray was quite expensive.” - Nancy Grimes

ANSWER: I don’t know of a specific “home remedy” to use as a fungicide. Perhaps one of our resourceful readers has one! If so, please let me know.

Meanwhile, here is a link to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with a great listing of organic ways for disease control that they should find quite helpful. http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/sustainable/handbooks/naturaldisease/leasttoxic.html As that’s quite a long URL, you might prefer to find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org where you can click on a direct link.

However, one of the best methods is to control the watering situation as many fungi begin with over watering in areas where there is not enough light to provide adequate evaporation. As listed in the Brooklyn Botanical link link, copper and sulfur have been used for a hundred years or more can control most rusts, but great care must be taken as they can be toxic to humans and animals.

QUESTION: “I have a statuary fountain that stand about 7 feet tall. Around the fountain is a full-surround planter, 18 inches wide. Half of the planter gets adequate water from splash and the other half gets so much water that it is more like a pond or riverside.

“Can you point me in the right direction to find wet soil plants? I believe you’ve written about them before. I live in the southwest USA and the summers are hot and dry. The wet side of the fountain is probably the result of wind and is unique on my property.” - Patrick Abernathy

ANSWER: The first thing to do is double check to make sure that the far side planter is draining properly. During hot, dry summer days, the splashing from the fountain could be burning (scorching) the plants, causing them to die from the top down. Also, if you are adding any chemicals to the fountain water to prevent mold, it will affect the plants.

You might consider a few plant varieties that will grow in damper soils such as:

• Daylilies
  
• Irises
  
• Sedges
  
• Buddleias
  
• Low growing bamboo
  
• Low growing cypress
  
• Creeping cotoneaster
  

You could also consider hostas and ferns that will do well if the area is shaded.

QUESTION: “I have a problem with mushrooms coming up in my yard where a tree was taken down last year. They are coming up mostly at any area that had root runners from the trunk that was ground. Is there anything you can spray on them as they come up in large groups and continue to come back even if you dig them up.

“Also, when is the best time to trim Crape Myrtles?” – Tommy Neal

ANSWER: Wet soil is frequently the reason for mushrooms. We have similar problems in our garden. I don’t know of a spray you could use, but just let the area dry out and get a lot of sun.

Crapes should be trimmed after leaf drop in winter or in spring before they begin to leaf out.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Fall planting: your plants will thank you next spring!

Professional gardeners and landscapers know an important “trick of the trade”: Fall isn’t the end of the growing season, it’s the beginning! And here’s why you should be thinking about planting right now.

Coo-ool weather
If you were the proud parent of an infant who was just a few months old, would you take her outside in her baby carriage under a blazing sun? Or do you think she would be more comfortable enjoying the open air on a cooler, less muggy day?

Think about your “plant babies” in the same way. In most parts of the nation, planting in spring means the tender little guys are soon exposed to the scorching heat of the sun and must endure it throughout the summer during a crucial time in their development.

However, fall planting is far less stressful on your plants. Shrubs and trees planted in the fall have the advantage of a cooler environment above, and perhaps something even more beneficial, out of sight below ground. Roots have the perfect opportunity to grow and establish themselves without the need to concentrate on providing nutrients as well.

In fact, the root systems of fall-planted plants can continue to grow throughout autumn and into winter, usually becoming dormant only when ground temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Essentially, planting in fall, instead of waiting until spring, gives your plants a head start of several months. By next summer they will be sturdy, resilient adolescents instead of vulnerable, tender babes, and far better prepared to take on the rigors of a hot, and possibly dry, summer.

Save water
Did I mention “dry”? Most trees and shrubs planted in spring require regular watering during this vital “establishment” phase of their development. Summer’s heat makes this even more critical.

But in the fall, you will not need to provide your new plants with nearly as much water. As you might imagine, evaporation is much less of a factor in the autumn, so water loss is greatly reduced. Additionally, a plant’s water requirements are considerably diminished when the natural process of photosynthesis slows down as the days become shorter.

Another water-related benefit is that in the fall you are unlikely to be faced with municipal watering restrictions that might affect your new plantings during a long, hot summer. Nothing is more depressing to a garden lover than to see new, young plants dying because of lack of water.

Lower prices
We all like to grab a bargain and smart gardeners can take advantage of sales and clearance-priced plants at this time of year. If you’re buying from a reputable nursery, the plants now on sale have probably been cared for throughout the summer by knowledgeable professionals and should be ready for fall planting… but at a much lower price!

It’s worth asking an expert at the nursery, or at least carefully reading the plant’s tag, to be sure of the best time to plant as this can vary from zone to zone.

Because the Internet makes just about every kind of shopping easier, don’t forget to do some research on your computer. Simply go to Google and type in “online nursery” and you’ll find perennial shrubs and trees ideal for fall planting at bargain prices.

Forget the fertilizer
Plant in the fall and forget the fertilizer until next spring. Why? Fertilizing new plants at this time of year could force new growth that would then fall victim to frost damage during the winter before it has time to harden off. Buying and using fertilizer is a chore and an expense you won’t need to worry about, at least until spring!

More fun, less stress
Many people tell Cheryl and me that they find fall planting more enjoyable. The reason, they say, is that they can concentrate on the planting in the slower-paced ambience of fall. With so much to do in a spring landscape, it’s easy to be distracted from the joy of planting.

It’s fair to say that some plants, including many groundcovers, may prefer spring planting, so it’s advisable to ask at your nursery or check the plant’s tag. But for the most part, planting now will give your garden a powerful head start on spring. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Snakes? Deterrent tips to keep them away

Maybe you enjoyed “Snakes on a Plane” as an entertaining movie. But it’s a whole less fun when it’s snakes in your home’s foundation, as this reader discovered.

QUESTION: “How does one get rid of snakes without poisoning pets? The snakes are around the house foundation and we believe they are Racers.” – Teresa Finch

ANSWER: According to the Web site www.snakesandfrogs.com “Black Racers are slender black snakes of adult size from 30 to 60 inches in length. They are called ‘racers’ because they are active, fast moving snakes. Usually, these snakes quickly slither to the safety of thick grass or brush when encountered. If cornered or grasped, they will bite viciously in defense.” However, they are not venomous.

As you might guess, snakes generally go where there is a food source. Chances are that they are eating rats, mice, frogs and large insects, and the black racers also eat poisonous snakes.

When it comes to snakes, and most other unwanted critters for that matter, prevention is the best cure. Limit the habitat and food source for the snakes’ prey and you reduce the likelihood that snakes will take up residence once those tasty rodents and insects are scarce.

Here are some quick and simple ways to keep snakes away:

• Keep the area around you house mowed. Tall grass invites small rodents and insects.

• Trim or prune excessively dense or overgrown shrubs for the same reason.

• Be sure that garbage containers are covered.

• Remove all brush and stone piles that would attract rodents.

• Patch all holes into the foundation or crawl space of your house, including drain pipes.

Steve and I live way out in the country where most of the adjoining property isn't cleared off, and outside cats and large dogs have pretty much kept snakes away from the immediate area around the house.

Here’s an idea you might want to consider. Water soluble granulated sulfur can be spread over the yard and watered-in to keep fleas and tick under control, but I have also read where it will keep snakes at bay as well. Check your hardware store or farmers’ co-op for a supply source. If you do decide to use granulated sulfur, it’s essential to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and avoid inhaling the dust.

In the past few years, we have offered this snake repellent.

QUESTION: “Our backyard has been a challenge since we bought our home. We have always teetered on the fine line of lawn and weed infestation. Well, last summer we let it do itself in and we have since been unable to reverse the affects.

“The lawn was Bermuda with rye grass and many different weeds mixed in from the neighboring vacant lots. The Bermuda was not well established when we bought the house and I'm not sure there is even any Bermuda left at this point. Our back yard is a smorgasbord of weeds, rye grass and dirt spots and, newly added this summer, thorns (goat heads). What can we do to fix our lawn?

“My husband seeded it but they were choked out at a delicate age (and probably not done correctly, don't tell him I said that). We don't have the money to do sod so what are our cheap options to fix a dying lawn in a hot area? What can we do to conquer the weeds once and for all and get rid of the goat heads which so conveniently came up around our children's swing set?

ANSWER : There are a multiple of things going on in your yard. It sounds like everything from poor drainage and compacted soil, to unhealthy soil. (Weeds do great in unhealthy soil) But the good thing is you are coming into the fall that is a great time to start over and you should be able to do it yourself.

Here is an online site I have used in the past for lawn questions. It is a commercial site for Scott’s turf builder but does give great advice. http://www.scotts.com/smg/gosite/Scotts-v2/toolGallery

Transplanted blueberry plants need soil boost to thrive

QUESTION: “I was looking for information online about blueberries, plants for shade and composting and found your site. Could you email me the article on composting as I would like to start a compost pile.

”Also I did have a question on my established blueberry plants. They are 6 mature plants; they are 4 feet high and I know two of them are Northland variety that were here when we moved in three years ago. I transplanted them in a row about 2 feet apart, to the east side of our woods as we live in a wooded two-acre lot. They were near the house where they received only a few hours of sun midday so I thought they would get more sun on the outer edge.

”I haven't pruned them yet as I didn't know how to do it. (They really need it!) I recently found this information that recommends peat moss, sand, or sawdust in the soil. My question is: should I dig up the plants and re-plant them with the adequate soil content? The soil we have has more clay matter. I do not know the pH level of the soil. They did better last year for bearing fruit but have much new growth this year. Thanks for your help!” – Karen

ANSWER: Here are links to the composting articles that I believe will be helpful: http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/33585, http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/8875

Additionally, if you simply go to the landsteward.org site and put “compost” in the search field, you should find about ten Plant Man columns and articles on aspects of composting and soil enrichment.

As for the blueberry plants, I would not dig them up and replace the soil, at least until after dormancy. I would, however, begin to add organic things to the soil as a top dressing that will leach down and become part of the soil over the years. The best thing I have found is a product called Black Kow. It is a composted manure and as a top dressing it is really wonderful on the plants and leaves no odor.

QUESTION: “We have a steep hill in front of our house. The house was built on a "pad" which was carved out of the hill. We are new to the house but we suspect that erosion has taken place beyond the front yard down the steep slope. I have thought of terracing but it is hard to imagine how to terrace it as it is so steep. We would like to do this the most inexpensive yet productive way.” – Liz

ANSWER: For serious erosion problems, you should install erosion netting. This will control the situation and allow you time to consider what you would like to plant there. You can follow up with ground covers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, perennials, etc, by cutting X's in the netting and planting.

However, you will need to set a sprinkler on the area for longer periods to make certain that the water goes through the netting and into the ground. Mulch wouldn't be a good idea over it as it would only wash away.

QUESTION: “I have recently purchased a farm that included a pond. However this pond looks like it was designed to grow duckweed! Do you have any suggestions on how to kill this pest without the need for store bought highly priced chemicals?” – Victor Cummins

ANSWER: Duckweed is a simple plant without any obvious stems or leaves. They float on or just below the surface of the water and are a food source for water fowl (and even humans in parts of southeast Asia). Once established in a pond, duckweed can be difficult to eradicate. If a colony of duckweed covers the water surface, oxygen depletion can occur, killing any fish in the pond. These plants should be controlled before they cover the entire surface of the pond Here is a link to Perdue University on controlling duckweed and watermeal. Good luck on the situation. http://www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Steve’s ten turf tips for a healthy summer lawn

Of all the plants in our landscape, it seems the one area that needs the most attention is the lawn. Trees and shrubs seem content to live pretty much without our constant attention. But ignore your lawn and before long you’re living in a wild meadow.

Here are my Ten Turf Tips to get your lawn safely through the heat of summer.


Don’t over-water
At the height of summer, there’s a temptation to water your lawn every day. Just because you need a drink of water doesn’t mean your lawn does. Instead of daily watering, give your lawn a thorough soaking less frequently, once or perhaps twice a week. This practice forces the grass to push down deeper roots making it stronger and healthier.

Avoid over fertilizing
If one pound of lawn fertilizer is good, ten pounds must be ten times as good, right? Wrong. Apart from being a waste of money, applying too much fertilizer or applying it unevenly can burn the blades of grass, leaving brown spots. Overdoing the fertilizer, in combination with over-watering, can also increase thatching which prevents water reaching the roots and encourages disease and pest problems.

Natural fertilizer
Leave grass clippings on your lawn after you mow. As they decompose, they will naturally add a certain amount of fertilizer back into the lawn. I should add that this works best when you’re mowing on a regular basis so that the coverage of clippings is fairly light.

Naughty Fido
Another cause of brown spots is dog urine, particularly female dog urine. If you see it happen, your best bet is to grab the hose and give it a quick blast of water. The lawn, that is, not the dog. This will dilute much of the urine before it has a chance to “burn” the grass. I’ve heard from readers who recommend feeding dogs a low protein diet to reduce nitrogen in the urine, or adding tomato juice to the feed or baking soda to the water. I strongly suggest asking your veterinarian before trying any solution of that nature!

The mower did it!
No dogs in the neighborhood, but you still have a brown spot? If you refuel your mower while it is standing on the lawn, spilled or runoff fuel could be the reason. Refill the mower’s tank away from the lawn or place a tarp under the mower. Or be very, very careful.

When to water
Regardless of where you live, the best time to water your lawn is between 5:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. Watering in the heat of the afternoon means that much of the water will evaporate before it can filter down to the roots. Watering at night can increase the likelihood of pest and disease problems.

How much water?
One way to see how much water your sprinkler is putting out is what I call the Tuna Can Test. Put a few empty tuna cans or cat food cans out on the lawn and turn on your sprinkler for exactly 15 minutes. Turn it off and measure the depth of the water caught in the cans. Take the average depth and multiply by two, to tell you how much water you grass would receive in 30 minutes. As a rule of thumb, that should ideally be about one inch.

Keep off the grass!
As much as possible, avoid walking on grass that has just been watered or when dew is still on the ground. This is also true for frost-covered lawns in the winter. You could bruise or damage the blades of grass making them susceptible to disease.

Walk on the grass
… when it’s not wet, that is. Put on a pair of golf shoes and stroll around your domain while your body weight pushes the spikes into the lawn to provide much needed aeration. You can actually buy lawn aerator overshoes, but some people find them awkward and difficult to keep on.

Use a reel mower
Sometimes called a push mower, a reel mower can be a good solution for a small to mid-sized lawn. No more buying expensive fuel, inhaling smelly fumes or splitting your eardrums. Plus it’s healthy outdoor exercise! The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Pear trees need a pair for pollination

Even without a partridge, a pear tree can add a special touch of beauty to almost any landscape. But, depending on your needs – ornamental or fruiting - you should do a little research before you plant.

QUESTION: “I have been told you need two pear trees to produce fruit. I just planted an ornamental pear, FLW Cleve Select. My neighbor just across the road was told if you have another pear tree within a half mile, that would work for the second tree. He wants to plant a pear tree. My question: will my ornamental work for his "second" pear tree if he plants a fruit bearing pear or does he need two of his own? Thanks for your time and help.” -- Mickey VanSickle

ANSWER: Ornamental flowering pears will not work to cross pollinate fruiting pear trees. When planting a fruiting pear tree, a second variety of a pear tree should be planted within about 300 feet for cross pollination. The two fruiting pear varieties should either bloom at the same time or overlap their blooming period. Otherwise, pollination will not occur.

QUESTION: “I have a Cleveland pear tree and half of the leaves are dead-looking and brown colored. Any idea what is causing this problem? Your help is appreciated.” – John Young

ANSWER: It sounds as if your tree is showing signs of stress. A few things that you will want to check are: Fire blight Freeze damage Frost damage Wind damage Over/under watering Borers Residue from chemicals sprayed in the area

These are probably the most common reasons for pear trees to show stress. You can narrow the list by eliminating any that you know definitely could not be responsible. When you’ve narrowed the list, you might want to take a sample twig or a photo to a garden center or better still, call your nearest Ag Extension Service, as they might be knowledgeable about any causes specific to your local area. If you need help locating your local Extension Service, drop me an e-mail.

QUESTION: “I am having a problem with some of my trees that I plant that die due to girdling. The root just goes in a circle and kills itself. What can I do to prevent this?” – Fran Imlay

ANSWER: For readers who are unfamiliar with the term, girdling refers to the tendency of the roots of some trees to grow tightly around the main stem of the tree and slowly restrict the movement of water and nutrients. As a result, leaves become smaller, paler in color and less dense.

One preventative action is root pruning and/or fraying out the roots of container-grown plants before transplanting.

Here is a link to very helpful online article from the University of Ohio Extension Service about root girdling: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1139.html You can also click on a direct hot link to that article when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: “I am wondering if you can suggest to me what to plant in my backyard that seems to be damp and moist most of the time. We are having three of our Austrian pines removed because of the drought last summer. We have been told they are dead. The area is in direct sunlight and the ground area seems to be damp due to a water drop off. What are some good trees or plants to replace in this area? We want something for privacy as well as beauty.” -- Vernice

ANSWER: Sorry to hear about your pines, Vernice. I suggest you take a look at the following trees that could be what you need: Maples, bald cypress and river birch. Something you might not have thought of: Growing bamboo and taller growing grasses in larger containers. They provide quick privacy and can be moved around as other plants begin to grow taller. Some other plants that I’d suggest for your backyard are Canna lilies, Nandina, Hibiscus and laurels. I hope this gives you some ideas to build on.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Sustainable landscaping saves time, energy and money

Is your garden a sustainable landscape? Ideally, it should be. By “sustainable” I mean that it is in balance with the local climate and requires minimal resource inputs such as fertilizer, pesticides and water.

Take pesticides for example. One survey indicates that homeowners use ten times more pesticides per acre than farmers and two thirds of household users dispose of excess pesticides in the trash or down the drain. Detectable limits of pesticides have been found in 5% to 10% of wells as a result.

When it comes to your pocketbook, a single acre of lawn will cost you between $400 and $700 per year to maintain. And approximately 75,000 people require medical treatment every year for mower-related injuries.

Perhaps because of these factors, many homeowners are turning to a more naturalistic garden design. A naturalistic landscape requires less maintenance, reduces environmental harm, can benefit wildlife and still provides seasonal interest.

One way to create a successful naturalistic garden is to focus on native plants. Native plants are those that grow naturally in your geographic area rather than plants that are introduced from other parts of the country or from overseas.

Native plants are best adapted to local conditions and thrive with minimal care. Generally, native plants won’t harm natural areas. In a book titled “Wildflowers Across America,” Mrs. Lyndon Johnson wrote, “Wherever I go in America, I like it when the land speaks its own language in its own regional accent.”

A basic rule of thumb for a naturalistic sustainable garden is to select the right plant for the right place. By that, I mean it’s important to assess the site conditions, such as soil type, sun and shade and rainfall, and then select plants that thrive under those conditions.

I often hear from readers who say they have a sloping area of land that is experiencing soil erosion. The ideal solution is to plant some native groundcover plants that require little or no maintenance. The roots of groundcover plants hold the soil in place and also hold water, creating a healthy environment that prevents soil erosion and doesn’t need dangerous or risky mowing on a slope!

If you have a soil erosion issue or a hilly, sloping area that is hard to mow, a groundcover plant would probably be you best solution. You are welcome to send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org with some brief details of your situation and your geographic area and I’ll be happy to respond with some suggestions.

Meanwhile here are a couple of groundcover “idea starters.”

Bronze Ajuga
Sometimes known as Ajuga reptans or Carpet Bugle, this evergreen plant produces crowns and spreads by horizontal above-ground stems called stolens. It grows only to a height of 6” to 8” and produces spikes of attractive purple-blue flowers each spring.

Grass Carex Pennsylvania Sedge
When readers ask me what they can plant beneath trees, I often recommend Pennsylvania Sedge. It’s a native plant from West Virginia to Georgia to Alabama and forms soft, grass-like, 15 inch clumps of very narrow bright green leaves.

Heucheras Plum Pudding
This little guy won my heart! It grows well in shade and around trees. It’s a tough, long-lasting perennial that requires little maintenance.

Additionally, if heating and air conditioning costs are a concern, remember that trees on your landscape can lower energy bills by about 25% .

Recently, I’ve been traveling to some East African nations to assist in developing plans for sustainable agriculture that will boost their economy while growing much needed plants for the world market.

While in Ghana, I saw people carrying sturdy, colorful baskets that were so much better than the plastic or paper bags we use here to bring home groceries from the supermarket. I found that they are called Bolgatanga Market Baskets. They are hand-woven by Ghanaian artisans to provide income during the dry season. I brought home several baskets and now Cheryl and I use them constantly. If you’re interested in owning one or two of these baskets, drop me an e-mail and I’ll give you some shopping information.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Weeds? The remedy could be in your kitchen

Drought might be a landscape’s biggest enemy, but sometimes too much rain can bring problems of its own, as this reader found.

QUESTION: “Following some recent heavy rain, I noticed a LOT of tiny bright green weeds suddenly sprouting up through the mulched beds in front of our house. I mean there are hundreds of them.

“My question is this: Is it safe to get rid of them by spraying them with Round Up? The beds contain several established evergreen shrubs, no small plants or flowers. The prospect of trying pull up each and every one of the little pests is almost too much to imagine, so I'm hoping I can get rid of them some other way, but of course I don't want to risk damaging the shrubs. What do you suggest?” – Mike H

ANSWER: Cheryl saw your question and said, “Put some white vinegar in a spray bottle and have at it. The vinegar in cooperation with the summer sun will kill off weeds. It may take a couple of good sprays, but you have to be stronger than the weeds. You can do it!”

Good advice, to which I would add this. Stir up the mulch every so often to disturb the roots of the little weeds. Do this in the hot part of the day so the ones on top do not have a chance to re-root. Round Up is good if the weeds are a certain height but not before that. A benefit of Cheryl’s solution is that it’s all natural. Use ordinary white vinegar, full strength. However, you still have to take the same care as if you were spraying Round Up and be careful not to spray the vinegar onto your non-weed plants.

A few days later, I received this e-mail from Mike: “Steve, I’d read one of your Plant Man columns that included a question from someone looking for highly concentrated vinegar to use as a weed killer. Because of that, I didn’t expect much from the ordinary vinegar I bought at the supermarket, but decided to give it a try. I put the vinegar in a plastic spray bottle and carefully sprayed the baby weeds. For good measure, I also sprayed some weeds coming up between the cobblestones in the front walk.

“When I looked the next day, the weeds I had sprayed had all shriveled up! As you suggest, I will stir up the mulch a bit and keep the vinegar spray handy for the next time the weeds emerge.”

QUESTION: “I have a Kwanzan cherry tree about 5 feet tall. It was doing GREAT… then a deer ate the leaves and as it pulled away it snapped the trunk (below the branch development). It was still hanging on so I taped it back up hoping it would heal. What should I do?” – David McDonald

ANSWER: There’s really not a lot that can be done over and above what you have done already. Frankly, the chances are it will not come back from the trauma caused by the deer.

However, one thing you can try is to angle-cut the tree at the base about 3 inches from the soil. It will sucker out stems if the tree is still viable. When most of the stems reach about 6 to 12 inches, cut off all except the best. You may have to stake it but probably not.

If your tree has a good root system, the roots will cause the “new” tree to grow to maybe where you were before the deer damage. Good luck!

You might also want to invest in a product called Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent. You can buy it as a 40 ounce concentrate or as a Pump & Spray combo pack that includes a 48 ounce pressure sprayer and 6 ounces of Liquid Fence, enough to make three quarts of repellent shat should be enough to treat 1,500 square feet. If you need some shopping information, drop me an e-mail.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Books and products that add to garden fun

I’ve always thought that cooking enthusiasts and garden lovers have a lot in common.

For example, cooks tend to have a shelf full of cookbooks and always seem to have room for “just one more.” Additionally, they love to find cool tools and gadgets that will make their lives easier and more productive.

In the same way, gardeners tend to be voracious readers of books on every aspect of plants, garden design and landscaping. And no shed feels complete without an array of garden tools and related outdoor products!

Today, I’ll point you at a few items that you (or your garden-obsessed significant other) might find fun, useful or maybe even both.

Let’s start with books…

“Don’t Throw It, Grow it” by Deborah Peterson When is a leftover piece of gingerroot not merely destined for the compost heap, or a wrinkled potato well past its prime more than just an affront to the eye and nose? When Deborah Peterson gets her hands on it and transforms it into a windowsill plant.

Visitors to our Web site www.landsteward.org know that Cheryl and I are strong advocates of recycling. If kitchen scraps can find a new life as attractive houseplants or even homegrown food, so much the better.

Peterson’s book includes growing instructions for 68 plants in four broad categories – kitchen vegetables, fruits and nuts, herbs and spices, and more exotic plants. With Peterson’s help, a sweet potato turns into a blooming vine; chickpeas transform into cheery hanging baskets; a humble beet becomes a dramatic centerpiece; and gingerroot grows into a three-foot bamboo-like stalk.

“Designer Plant Combinations” by Scott Calhoun If you’ve watched the HGTV show about the 25 biggest landscaping mistakes, you’ll remember that one of the mistakes was called “scattered color.” Professional landscape designers think in terms of a palette of colors that enhance each other, whereas amateurs often scatter colors like randomly-dropped crayons.

In this new book (available August 2008) Calhoun demonstrates 105 plans that use six plants or fewer. Rather than complete garden designs, these combinations are small, understandable pieces intended to demystify the design process for home gardeners, particularly those dealing with small spaces.

Filled with photos and illustrations, this book should inspire the exterior decorator in every homeowner.

Moving out of the bookshop and into the back yard…

Bat House Kit
The most natural way to control mosquitoes is to allow bats to feed on them. A single bat can eat hundreds or even thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, and a bat house kit is a fun project to share with the kids or grandkids.

Mosquito Repellents
For the skeeters that escape from the bats, you need a way to keep them away from you when you are outdoors. Apart from that annoying itch, insect bites can cause West Nile virus, Lyme disease and malaria. Two new products claim to repel mosquitoes and other flying insects without the use of DEET.

Don’t Bite Me! patches are discreet, all-natural transdermal skin patches that deliver a blend of protective Vitamin B1 and aloe throughout the body. The manufacturer says that the waterproof patches can protect against bites from mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, chiggers and sand fleas for up to 36 hours. Unlike a spray, the patch will protect often-missed body areas such as ears, nose and scalp. The patches are available in 5-pack boxes for $4.99 and 10-packs for $7.99.

BugBand is another DEET-free repellent designed to protect you from biting and blood-sucking insects. It’s a wristband impregnated with Gerantol, a natural plant-based that keeps flying insects at a safe distance. BugBand is reusable (for up to 120 hours) and each band comes with its own storage pod in which to keep it between uses. Individual BugBands cost $4.95 and a four-pack is $14.95.

Liquid Net for Horses is a DEET-free pump spray specifically designed for horses. Spray it on your horse before you hit the trail and the flies, gnats and mosquitoes will stay away from your horse… and you.

So put on some bug repellent, build a bat house and relax in the garden with a couple of inspirational books.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org